10 MOST POPULAR HOUSEPLANTS Despite the universal love for bright, colorful and unusual indoor plants, which has given rise to a fashion for exotic plants, there are some crops that do not disappear from window sills despite any trends. Plants that are familiar to everyone and have become true “golden classics” are special, time-tested crops that have proven their irreplaceability and uniqueness. Among them there are both modest little ones and large giants. But they have one thing in common - traditional beauty and ease of cultivation.

“Grandma’s” plants with an impeccable reputation Plants that are among the most classic indoor plants have certainly earned their legendary status. They adorned window sills for centuries, and even when fashion changed, they still occupied a special place in the hearts of fans and never experienced a period of complete oblivion. Such plants are often called “grandmother’s”: their appearance is really familiar to everyone from childhood. These plants were widely used to decorate both homes and public institutions - schools, hospitals, administrations, offices. It’s as if their very appearance transports us to another era, they are recognizable at first sight. They cannot be confused with any other plant. And such well-known and familiarity has both its positive and negative sides. The main advantages of classic plants: their endurance is time-tested; It is very easy to grow such plants; they require basic care; classic plants are suitable for even the most inexperienced gardeners; plants are easy to propagate; they are accessible and widespread, finding them will not cause any difficulties; plants will never go out of style. But the shortcomings of such cultures are truly minimal: it is difficult to surprise with classics; traditional plants do not combine well with fashionable new items; they are more difficult to match to modern interior styles. Often, the negative features of “golden classic” cultures include their familiar, boring appearance. But there is no need to rush with such a categorical statement. “Granny’s” does not mean boring and faceless. Many classic plants remain irreplaceable and inimitable today. Thanks to the efforts of breeders, traditional crops are experiencing a new flourishing and winning new fans. Time does not stand still. The range of indoor plants is expanding to almost unimaginable choices. And those cultures whose appearance is familiar to everyone are far from an exception in this race for originality. The unusual structure, shape of leaves and play of colors in fashionable varieties and hybrids, the discovery and introduction of new, rarer species into indoor culture allow the classics to always remain relevant. And never get lost in the assortment of thousands of types of indoor plants available today. So, for example, it is difficult to find a replacement for the much-loved and delicate Uzambara violets or an analogue for cacti.

Any classic plant in the right “presentation” can become the pride of a collection. In how plants are perceived, their placement, the choice of container and even additional decor are no less important than the decorative details of leaves or inflorescences. And in the perception of the attractiveness or boringness of traditional cultures, all responsibility lies with the owners. Fashionable design can even “fit” a boring aloe into a high-tech room or turn a hibiscus into a colorful space divider for a loft. (Loft is an architectural style of the 20th-21st centuries, the upper part of an industrial building (factory, plant, warehouse) converted into housing, a workshop, an office space or an event area. In the matter of using “boring classics”, everything depends on exactly what the angle you look at the plants and how much attention you pay to them. Let’s remember our honored heroes and take a closer look at the ten best representatives of the “golden classics.” Their appearance is well known, but they can also surprise you with their variety of more reliable green and flowering favorites with simple care. It is simply impossible. No. 1. Chlorophytum It is very difficult to find a plant with the best “reputation” In any list of hardy, unpretentious, versatile and not requiring complex care plants, chlorophytum must be included. class of vines, this ampelous representative of the classics captivates not only with its friendly character, but also with its growth rate and versatility in use. Chlorophytum is suitable even for those who often travel.

Height: from 15 to 40 cm, lashes from 80 cm long, depending on the form of cultivation. Chlorophytums (Chlorophytum) develop in the form of a dense rosette, a kind of dense bunch of long lanceolate leaves with a central longitudinal fold. Chlorophytum leaves droop in an arched manner. The mother plant produces long shoots, each of which bears an inflorescence, and then forms an independent rosette of leaves with aerial roots. The only drawback of chlorophytum is the fragility of the leaves, which are very easy to damage. Chlorophytum inflorescences are unremarkable. Loose and lacy, with small white flowers, the umbels of inflorescences are quickly replaced by daughter plants with aerial roots. Variations of chlorophytum varieties: there are varieties with longitudinal stripes on the leaves, varieties with twisted leaves, with a wavy edge, with wider or thinner leaves, and different shades of green. Use of chlorophytum: as an hanging crop; in potted form; in florariums and paludariums; on hydroponics.

Lighting for chlorophytum: from sun and light locations to partial shade and shade. Chlorophytum wintering conditions: normal room conditions. Features of caring for chlorophytum: very simple, with regular watering (forgiving “misses”), periodic spraying and rare fertilizing. Reproduction of chlorophytum: by daughter plants; layering; dividing bushes. No. 2. Indoor Saintpaulias These amazing plants are known to all gardeners simply as violets, although there are many genuine violas in indoor culture. Saintpaulia, or Usambara violet (Saintpaulia) is a tiny miracle that never goes out of style. For many, these miniature plants have become collector's items. And in the ability to place touching accents in the interior, not a single one, even the most fashionable exotic, can compare with Saintpaulias. This is a plant for individual accents, but it is inimitably beautiful.

Height: from 5 to 20 cm, rosette diameter - from 6 to more than 20 cm. Saintpaulias offer a unique play of textures. Round or oval, fleshy, with a velvet edge, the leaves of the plant flaunt a dark color and a textile effect, the opposite light side. They form a tiled rosette, sit on short petioles, come in large, medium, and miniature, and flaunt a simple jagged edge or a more original border. There are many varieties of Saintpaulias with different colors and even variegated foliage variations. But no matter what kind of violet we are talking about, the velvet leaves perfectly emphasize the beauty of flowering. Touching Saintpaulia flowers with a small yellow “eye” in the center, asymmetrical, consisting of 5 petals, simple or double, captivate with their mother-of-pearl-porcelain texture. Against the background of densely pubescent leaves, they literally shine and make a very touching impression. The flowers are collected above the leaves in umbrella-shaped inflorescences with a loose structure, on pubescent, ascending flower-bearing shoots. In some Saintpaulias, the inflorescences form a continuous “cap” in the center of the bushes. The edges of the petals of some violets are decorated with ruffles or a carved border. Under optimal conditions, violet flowering continues for up to 10 months a year and is almost continuous. Variations of Saintpaulia varieties: from miniature to classic violets, varieties and hybrids with different combinations of white, pink, lilac, red, violet, lilac and blue colors; There are numerous multi-color, two-color combinations, and the number of variations in the shape of the petals and the variety of structure of terry varieties is very large. In addition to ordinary Saintpaulias, there are ampelous varieties and “wasps” with exotic flowers. Use of Saintpaulias: as single accents or in collections; on the windowsill, pieces of furniture, in table settings; as touching living bouquets, an alternative to cut flowers; in seasonal and holiday decor.

Lighting for Saintpaulias: diffused light or partial shade. Wintering conditions for Saintpaulia: normal room conditions. Peculiarities of caring for Saintpaulia: the plant loves coolness and stable temperatures, needs moderate, careful watering (preferably by drip), does not tolerate drought and waterlogging, does not require measures to increase air humidity, needs regular fertilizing and plucking out fading flowers and leaves. Propagation of Saintpaulia: by leaf cuttings; dividing bushes. No. 3. Cissus - indoor birch One of the most famous indoor vines, cissus has eclipsed even ivy in popularity. As, indeed, in terms of his abilities and endurance. Known simply as "birch" or indoor grape, the flexible-shooting plant is a tireless, fast-growing draper that rivals even chlorophytum in its ability to grow in almost any conditions.

Height: depending on the garter and the form of cultivation - from 10 cm to several meters, shoots up to 3 m long. Cissus is a typical evergreen climbing vine, producing numerous long and fairly flexible shoots. Thin branches form a dense crown, are obedient, can be guided along a support or hang down. On the shoots sit glossy, dark green leaves, whole or lobed (in most cissus they resemble grapes or birch), they look bright and interesting. Thanks to the usually carved shape of the leaf, cissus creates a thick, but visually light, airy crown. The flowering of cissus in indoor culture is almost invisible and can be observed very rarely. Inconspicuous small flowers in false umbrellas lead to shrinkage and elongation of leaves, so it is better to prevent flowering to preserve the beauty of the latter. Variations of cissus varieties: there are cissus with different leaf shapes (from heart-shaped to three-lobed and lanceolate); There are cissus with lighter and darker colors, with variegated patterns. Use of cissus: in ampelous culture; in potted form with cascades of shoots hanging down; for draping furniture; on figured supports and trellises; for green walls and screens; on hydroponics.

Lighting for cissus: from light to shade. Wintering conditions for cissus: normal room temperature (minimum 12 degrees). Features of caring for cissus: moderate watering (tolerates short droughts well), does not like waterlogging, needs abundant feeding during the summer, spraying whenever possible; formation - if desired. Reproduction of cissus: by cuttings (root even in water); dividing bushes. No. 4. Money tree - Crassula The official name of this species is Crassul, Crassula ovata, or Crassula ovata - much less common than the popular nicknames “money tree” and “monkey tree”. This species has long become a symbol of all fat women and is found in almost every home. Myths associated with the plant’s ability to attract wealth do not in the least detract from the decorative merits of Crassula. The silhouettes of this unique succulent are original and in many ways unique.

Height: from 50 cm to 1 m. Crassula oval is a tree-like type of Crassula, whose powerful shoots gradually become woody and with age actually become similar to trunks. The fleshy, oval leaves of the plant are located on thick and juicy shoots in pairs, flaunting a glossy surface and a base muted gray-green color, decorated with purple and reddish tints. The reddish-brown color along the edge of the oval Crassula leaf sometimes extends to the leaf blade itself. The miniature white flowers of Crassula oval are very beautiful, they seem like shining stars, and are considered very rare in indoor conditions (they bloom only during a cool winter). The money tree blooms in late autumn; under the right conditions, flowering continues until early summer. Variations of varieties of Crassula oval: there are plants with smaller or larger leaves, as well as modified, thickened leaves that form coral-shaped branches. Use of Crassula oval: in pots; in dry florariums; in the absence of formation, it can form long shoots hanging under weight, a semi-ampeloid shape.

Lighting for the money tree: Sunny or bright location. Wintering conditions for oval Crassula: if possible, cool temperature, from 10 to 15 degrees Celsius (warm winter does not affect the decorativeness of greenery). Peculiarities of caring for Crassula oval: poor watering, infrequent feeding, careful handling due to fragile shoots and leaves; you need a choice of heavy pots that can give stability to a densely weighed plant. Reproduction of Crassula oval: by leaf cuttings; apical cuttings. No. 5. Indoor geraniums - pelargoniums Despite the fact that we stubbornly continue to call representatives of the pelargonium genus geraniums, ignoring their completely different characteristics, this plant does not become less popular. Pelargonium is the best decoration for balconies and window sills, a symbol of colorful summer, one of the oldest decorative crops. The delightful aromas that are felt upon any contact with the plant only emphasize its special status. One of the plant species even manages to predict the weather, although the main talent of pelargonium-geraniums is their bright beauty.

Height: from 30 to 50 cm. Bushy plants with charming pubescent leaves are easily recognized at first sight. Indoor pelargoniums have powerful, woody shoots, the slightly bulky shape of which, if uncontrolled, can lead to the formation of a somewhat sloppy appearance. Pelargonium leaves are kidney-shaped or rounded, with solid, wavy, carved edges, and in some species they are pinnate. As a rule, several “zones” of color appear on the leaves, separated by thin dark stripes, but there are also geraniums with uniformly colored leaf blades. All pelargoniums are distinguished by a rich green color - bright, sunny green, very cheerful. And the surface of the leaves is velvety, pleasant to the touch due to its unique edge. The flowering of pelargonium cannot help but enchant. Spherical or umbrella-shaped inflorescences consist of large flowers from 3-5 cm in diameter, on the bright translucent petals of which beautiful veins clearly appear. The color scheme covers the white-red spectrum - from pink to red and purple, including two-color combinations. Pelargoniums bloom literally from spring to autumn and in this regard are equal to any garden annual. Fashionable large-flowered pelargonium and plant hybrids bloom from February to October. Varieties of varieties: pelargoniums differ not only in the shape and color of the leaves: from simple “zonal” to pinnately curly, but also in height, growth form (bush or ampelous) and the color of the inflorescences, and even vary in aroma - from the classic smell of geranium to orange, pine, lemon, apple, nutmeg and even vanilla trail. Among the indoor pelargoniums, there are some of the most interesting species: Pelargonium capitatum (Pelargonium capitatum) - a rose-smelling pelargonium with spherical dense inflorescences; Large-flowered pelargonium (Pelargonium grandiflorum) - a species with flowers from 5 cm in diameter with interesting veins and spots, blooming for 8-9 months; Curly pelargonium (Pelargonium crispum), famous for its curly, carved foliage; Strong-smelling pelargonium (Pelargonium graveolens) with huge flowers flaunting a network of veins; Pelargonium odoratissimum with elegant blooms and a lemony green scent; legendary and “old” Pelargonium zonale (Pelargonium zonale) and Pelargonium thyroid (Pelargonium peltatum) with their charming leaves, large bright inflorescences and some intemperance. Use of pelargoniums: as a color spot; in solo parts; for kitchen decoration; on balconies; in complex compositions; for decorating a summer interior; in ampelous form (varieties with hanging shoots).

Lighting for pelargoniums: sunny place or diffused bright light. Wintering conditions for pelargoniums: cool, about 10-15 degrees for lush flowering next year. Features of caring for pelargonium: abundant watering, access to fresh air, active feeding, pruning for thickening. Reproduction of pelargoniums: by stem and apical cuttings; seeds; dividing bushes. No. 6. Green-white speckled Dieffenbachia Despite its toxicity, Dieffenbachia remains a very common plant. Many associate the appearance of these beauties with clinics and schools, and the Dieffenbachias themselves seem boring and ineffective. But they are so diverse, hardy and beautiful that it is worth giving them a chance to show all their beauty. And the presence of a huge number of varieties of Dieffenbachia with brighter patterns and improved bushiness will allow you to forget forever about the “boringness” of this crop.

Height: from 40 cm to more than 1 m. Dieffenbachia is easily recognized by its large, sometimes huge leaves, the minimum length of which is limited to 10 cm, but the maximum can exceed 50 cm. Lanceolate-oval or ovoid, pointed at ends, they are always colored in interesting muted shades of light green or dark green. But it is not easy to distinguish the color tone of the Dieffenbachia leaf plate, since it is all covered with spots, specks, sometimes merging into huge “islands” and even covering a larger area than the main color. Dieffenbachia should not be allowed to bloom indoors. When flowers appear, it is better to break them off immediately. Variations of Dieffenbachia varieties: plants with different shapes of speckles, from variegated dotted to large, with different borders, stripes, uneven white-cream-green patterns, sometimes with green or light green shades of spots. Use of Dieffenbachia: in groups or alone; as a colorful interior decoration; to create an interesting background; for “highlighting” groups of indoor plants.

Lighting for Dieffenbachia: diffused light or partial shade. Wintering conditions for Dieffenbachia: normal room conditions with a temperature of at least 18 degrees Celsius. Features of caring for Dieffenbachia: regular moderate watering, rare feeding, pruning when the shoots are exposed from below, if possible, high air humidity. Reproduction of Dieffenbachia: apical and stem cuttings. No. 7. Hibiscus - Chinese rose Hibiscus (Hibiscus), despite the presence of many species, hybrids and varieties that are found much more often than the species plants themselves, most gardeners associate it with Chinese hibiscus, or Chinese rose (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis). The legendary indoor shrub or woody plant with huge gramophones of bright flowers is far from being as boring as the plant might seem at first glance. And updating the palette of Chinese hibiscus varieties has only benefited the plant.

Height: from 50 cm to 2 m. Large branched shrubs, sometimes grown in standard form or as tall multi-stemmed trees - hibiscus are indeed classic plants, but no less beautiful. The leaves are oval with an elongated tip or heart-shaped, albeit modest in appearance, but with a beautiful glossy dark green surface. The crown of Chinese hibiscus is lush, but not heavy, the diameter is always greater than the height. Hibiscus flowers actually resemble gramophones in shape; most often they bloom one at a time. They can reach 10 cm in diameter. Tubular-funnel-shaped, with a wide open throat, similar to an elegant skirt due to the wavy edge, variants are found as often as semi- or double varieties, the shape of the flowers vaguely reminiscent of roses. All hibiscus without exception are characterized by bright, dazzling colors, sometimes with two-color variations. Hibiscus blooms last a very long time, usually lasting continuously from March until mid-autumn. Variations of varieties of Chinese hibiscus: a wide variety of bright colors from white to yellow, orange, pink and red, with a pharynx or ruffle of a different color, beautiful fringed or simply wavy edges. Use of Chinese hibiscus: as a space divider; for replacing screens; for decorating corners and empty walls; as a bright background for the recreation area.

Lighting for hibiscus: bright or light. Wintering conditions for Chinese hibiscus: room temperature, not lower than 16 degrees Celsius. Features of caring for Chinese hibiscus: regular abundant watering and measures to humidify the air, frequent feeding, during the dormant period - reducing humidity, spring pruning. Propagation of Chinese hibiscus: apical cuttings. No. 8. An all-time favorite is the Ficus elastica. The rubbery Ficus, or Ficus elastica, is one of the most beloved indoor giants. This is a liana, but with such a special appearance that in terms of its form of cultivation and role in the interior, it is most often equated to shrubs or trees. Over the last century, the plant has firmly secured its title as the most common type of ficus and is not inferior to it even under the pressure of fashionable beauties. This ficus is very easy to grow; it is suitable even for novice gardeners.

Height: from 3 m and above, depends on the method of formation and trimming. When the rubber-bearing ficus is considered gigantic, there is no question of any exaggeration. This vine constantly increases the length of its shoots, produces new branches from dormant buds and grows both in width and length, literally increasing to the size of a tree. The shoots are thick, powerful, woody. With the help of pruning, this ficus can be easily controlled, given a compact shape, curled along the support, directed and achieved in virtually any form of growth. The main thing about this ficus is its large leaves, creating an ornamental, strict, translucent crown. The beauty of its dense, leathery, shiny, perfectly oval leaves of enormous size cannot be matched by any other plant. Flowering of the rubber-bearing ficus is not observed under indoor conditions. Variations of varieties of ficus rubber: there are varieties with dark green or variegated leaves, decorated with uneven light and even colored spots, with smaller leaves and more flexible shoots (usually these varieties are more capricious). Use of rubber ficus: as a gigantic vine; on figured supports; to create a green background and green walls; as a space divider; on hydroponics.

Lighting for rubber ficus: light or semi-shaded place. Wintering conditions for rubber ficus: preferably slightly cooler conditions, but not lower than 16 degrees Celsius. Features of caring for rubber ficus: moderate regular watering, periodic spraying and wiping of leaves, rare feeding. Reproduction of rubber ficus: by layering; apical and stem cuttings. No. 9. Not only medicinal aloe Uninteresting, aggressive and such a banal-looking medicinal aloe - this is how many people perceive this plant. But in fact, representatives of the aloe genus are able to give odds to any succulents. Not only does aloe have many super-decorative varieties, but even the most ordinary aloe, when formed, can turn into an original interior decoration. And in terms of endurance, aloe rivals cacti, not to mention “ordinary” agaves and crassulas.

Height: from 10 cm to 1 m or more. Among aloe there are many plants with radically different growth forms. In some species, full-fledged stems are gradually formed, which become bare after the leaves fall or are removed; in others, the stem is shortened and the plant develops in the form of rosettes of leaves. But it’s the greenery of aloe that is always easily recognizable. Pointed-oblong, fleshy, thick leaves hug the stem or previous leaf at the base and form rosettes; they are covered with spiny outgrowths along the edge of the leaf blades. The flowering of aloe is also remarkable, although it is not characteristic of all species, and in some it is difficult to achieve. Small, bright yellow, orange or red tubular flowers are collected in racemes and rise on a long peduncle. Variations of varieties: different species differ in the shape of growth and leaves: Aloe tree, or Agave (Aloe arborescens) flaunts narrow leaves with thorns along the edge, giving it a serrated appearance, gradually forms powerful stems, decorated with rosettes of leaves on top (if you break off the leaves at the bottom, along the silhouette resembles palm trees); Aloe variegata, or Aloe tiger (Aloe variegata) is decorated with light green spots on the leaves, as if nested one inside the other; Aloe aristata stands out with white edges and growths on a dark leaf in a dense rosette of miniature sizes; Aloe humilis produces short leaves with original red-yellow flowers; Aloe vera, or Aloe vera (Aloe vera) is easily recognized by its grayish, succulent leaves with a less dense “skin”; Aloe perfoliata is famous for its wider leaves and beautiful spike-shaped inflorescence; Red aloe (Aloe ferox) forms thick trunks with original flower-like rosettes; Aloe maculata is a beautifully flowering species with dense rosettes. Uses of aloe: in pots; in a single party; in the collection of succulents; in florariums and rutariums.

Lighting for aloe: sunny or bright location. Wintering conditions for aloe: flowering requires a cool winter with temperatures from 5 to 10 degrees, but aloe overwinters well in warm conditions (it just loses the ability to bloom). Features of aloe care: drought-resistant aloe needs scanty watering, rare fertilizing, and is content with a really minimum of care. Aloe propagation: by lateral shoots. No. 10. Cacti The kings of succulents, the most famous and recognizable of plants capable of surviving in desert conditions are, of course, cacti. They experienced a real explosion of popularity in the era of the spread of computer technology, but today the myth that cacti absorb special computer radiation has long been debunked. There are much more effective filter plants, and cacti have moved from the category of “catcher” plants to the number of not just classical, but traditional crops. But they deserve a new approach: cacti allow you to create decorative compositions that require virtually no care.

Height: from 5 cm to 1 m or more. The variety of cacti is simply enormous. Among them there are plants that develop in the form of compact round or cylindrical trunks, plants with ribbed shoots and even drooping branches, more or less prickly, pubescent. From the legendary snake cactus Disocactus flagelliformis, previously called Aporocactus flagelliformis, with hanging round shoots up to 60 cm in length and dazzling flowers; “gray-haired”, densely pubescent with gray-white hairs Cephalocereus senilis; the asymmetrically ribbed Cereus uruguayanus, capable of reaching the ceiling; requiring complex care and looking like a stone flower, Astrophytum myriostigma; original “balls” with light ribs of Gruson’s echinocactus (Echinocactus grusonii) to unpretentious, pubescent, with numerous spines, during flowering decorated with a “wreath” of mammillaria flowers (Mammillaria) or flattened, densely branching shoots of prickly pear (Opuntia) - there is plenty to choose from . Cacti differ from any other succulents by having areoles - modified buds with scales, stripes and spines - and pedicels that are part of the stems themselves. Flowering cacti are the pride of any gardener. Most species are able to bloom in indoor conditions when a dry, cool wintering is created, but there are also species that only need to be provided with no watering. Luxurious bright flowers of yellow pink, white or red tones resemble double stars and glow brightly against the background of a prickly “body”. Use of cacti: in solo parts; in cactus gardens and compositions with succulents; in desert florariums.

The world of indoor plants is many-sided and multifaceted. I just want to have the most beautiful flowers on the windowsill. Lovers of indoor plants do not always purchase new items in specialized stores or greenhouses. Potted flowers are not cheap. Having seen a strange plant from your friends, you can add to your collection yourself.

The propagation of indoor plants has its own characteristics. There are several ways to grow flowers in an apartment, they depend on the type of plant. Some of them are not particularly difficult; even novice gardeners can handle them. Other breeding methods are only suitable for experienced indoor plant lovers.

Most often, when propagating flowers, they use the vegetative method. Thanks to it, you can get a new plant that will completely preserve its original characteristics, varietal purity and other properties. Flowers grown vegetatively bloom earlier than those grown from seeds.

Pieces of stems, leaves, roots, and bulbs are suitable for growing. In addition, many plants, especially if their historical homeland is humid subtropics, do not form seeds. They are not available, for example, on:

• aloe and ficus;
• tradescantia and
• , curculigo.

There are many ways of growing season, each with its own characteristics and secrets.

Using the underground part

Peculiarities of propagation of bulbous flowers

Bulbs are used to obtain new plants from:

• hippeastrum;
• marshmallow;
• Hymenocallis and other bulbous plants.

The babies are located in the axils of the mother's bulb - a modified stem. Annual indoor plants need to be replanted annually using young bulbs.

In some plants, the baby bulbs are very small and require about three years to grow. After this, they need to be transplanted to a permanent place. In order for the planting material to take root faster, the pot must be covered with glass.

Propagation by tubers

Many plants have an underground part - a tuber - a thick, fleshy shoot that retains nutrients and ensures the normal development of the indoor flower.

Planting material is dug up for germination. After the eyes (buds) appear, it is cut. Each piece should have up to two eyes. The cuttings are placed in disinfected bowls with prepared soil.

A similar method of vegetation is inherent in the plants that Russians most often grow:

• cyclamens, oxalis;
• , caladium;
• sorrel, ;
• anemones, gesneriaceae.

Features of using root suckers

To propagate indoor plants such as agave, agave, and clivia, root suckers are used. They form on the roots of an old bush. The attractiveness of planting material is that each offspring already has its own root system.

If you plan to immediately transplant the mother bush into a new pot, then the offspring are selected as you work. This applies to clivia. In other cases, a part of the plant is simply cut off with a sharp knife and transplanted to a permanent place. This is what they do with aloe and agave.

Dividing a bush is a good option

Getting a new houseplant by dividing a bush is the most common method. This is how they grow:

• asparagus;
• violets;
• Saintpaulia;
• chlorophytums;
• cyperus;
• ferns.

Plants develop stems that have their own root system.

How the work is done:

1. After removing the plant from the container, you need to shake off the soil and inspect the underground part.
2. All shoots, leaves, and roots that are damaged are removed.
3. A small plant is cut off from aspidistra and asparagus, and a rosette from violets.

All divisions should have roots and shoots with leaves. On the donor plant, you need to remove dense roots that resemble plugs.

New plants and the mother bush are transplanted into prepared pots. For irrigation, use warm water, adding complex fertilizer.

How to get a new flower from leaves

There are three ways:

1. whole leaf;
2. a piece of leaf;
3. whole leaf with petiole.

Leaf without division

Whole leaves are used for plants with thick, succulent leaves, like Rex begonia.

Propagation by whole begonia leaf

The veins of the prepared planting material are cut from below. Before propagation, planting material is dried. Coarse sand is poured into a container with good soil on top and spilled. The sheet should be placed on the bottom side and pressed a little.

A piece of leaf

This option is suitable for:

• Mason Begonias;
• sansevierias;
• Streptocarpus.

The leaves are cut into pieces no larger than five centimeters. Planting is done using prepared soil. You can use compositions for indoor flowers, which are sold in specialized stores. The leaf plate should not come into contact with the soil; it should be supported by a support.

When favorable conditions are created (high humidity, warm air and watering), the root system forms quickly.

Whole leaf with petiole

A leaf with a petiole is a good material for obtaining:

• Saintpaulium;
• begonia.

The leaf should be taken from a healthy plant at the base. Use a sharp knife for cutting. The length of the petiole is usually 1 or 3-4 cm.

Propagation by leaf cuttings of Saintpaulia

You can get the root system in different ways:

1. Place the leaf in a container of water. The petiole should be long, up to 4 cm.
2. When rooting in the ground, the petiole is shortened to one centimeter. The cut is treated with a phytohormone solution. The leaf is placed directly into the hole with the bottom side facing the wall of the container. Planting material should not be allowed to come into contact with the ground.

Cuttings

Parts of the stem, leaf cuttings or unattractive plant stems are used as planting material for propagation by cuttings.

Stem cuttings

Some indoor plants can be propagated by part of the stem. Cuttings are taken from a healthy shoot no older than one year, cut into pieces no more than 8 cm long. Each of them should have two internodes and 2-3 leaves.

Propagation of geranium by cuttings

All leaves are removed from the bottom. After cutting the shoot by 1.5-2 cm, it is kept for several hours in a special solution that promotes growth. After this, place it in a pot with high-quality soil. It is impossible to bury more than 2 cm. After watering, put a plastic bag on top. Cuttings are carried out from March to May

Root directly in the ground:

• olive, eugenia and myrtle;
• callistemons, plumbago, pomegranates;
• pelargoniums, begonias;
• fuchsias, hibiscus, geraniums.

They quickly take root in an aquatic environment:

• epipremnuma, monstera;
• syngoniums, scindaptus.

As for hibiscus, myrtle, and ficus, rooting in water is successful, but if the plants fall into the ground, the roots may die. We'll have to wait for new ones to appear. Subsequently, the plants lag behind in development.

Leaf cuttings

If the indoor flower has short stems or a rosette, it will have to be propagated by leaf cuttings.

This is what you do with:

• , Kalanchoe; Begonia Rex;
• zamiocalcas, Uzumbara violet;
• Crassula, Crassula, Echeveria;
• ficus, echeveria, some lilies.

The leaf stalk is cut and placed in a moist substrate. Glass is placed on the container. After a while, small plants grow in the places where the cuts are made. New flowers can be obtained from leaf cuttings from May to the end of July.

You can get a new lily from scales. They need to be separated from the bulb along with a piece of the bottom on which the plant is formed.

Propagation by a piece of stem

Unattractive stems appear on dracaena, dieffenbachia, and cordyline, which have decorated the apartment for many years. In this case, the stem itself is used to produce a new plant.

The cut stalk should be 5-7 cm long, with an internode. The lower part of the planting material is deepened into the ground. It should be noted that such reproduction does not always bring the desired results. To prevent the death of the cutting, you need to create a greenhouse condition. This can be done using a bag or a greenhouse.

Video “Propagation by cuttings”

How else can you propagate indoor flowers?

In addition to the listed methods of propagating indoor plants, there are the following:

• propagation by daughter plants,
• air layering,
• reproduction by whiskers,
• seeds and spores.

Let's look at these types of reproduction in more detail.

The kids are coming

Many indoor plants produce daughter plants, which are popularly called children.

Children are formed from:

Formed children on faded guzmania

• Kostenza bulbiferous, Kalanchoe Degremon;
• Saxifraga, Tholmia Menzies;
• multirow, Chlorophytum crested;
• cyperus alternate-leaved, pancratium;
• , Krinum and many others.

Let's consider the method of reproduction in more detail:

• In pancratium, hippeastrum, and crinum, children grow next to the mother plant. They are simply transplanted.
• On Kalanchoe - directly on the leaves, on cacti - on the stem. Daughter plants should be placed on moist soil. Watering is stopped for a couple of days. The root system develops quickly, penetrates the soil, and the plant begins to grow.
• On Frisia, Aechmea, Cryptanthus, the place of development of daughter plants is the subcotyledon. There is no need to rush into separating the children: work begins when the daughter plant grows to the middle of the mother bush.

Reproduction by air layering

This method is rarely used due to its complexity. Beginners cannot do it, but experienced gardeners are experimenting.

In fact, propagation by layering is the oldest method; it is also called “Chinese”. This option is suitable for:

• rubber and lyre-bearing ficuses;
• hibiscus, dracaena;
• Scheffler and Monster.

The shoot is not separated from the main plant. The stem is cut to a third of its thickness at an angle. After this, they are treated with special compounds that stimulate the growth of the root system. A match is inserted into the incision site to prevent it from overgrowing.

Place a film and add wet moss to the place where the new plant will develop. The film is fixed at the top and bottom. As the moss dries, add water. It takes several months for the root to form.

When the roots are clearly visible, the film must be removed. Using a sharp knife, cut the stalk and plant it in a permanent place.

Reproduction by mustache

The mustache is well developed in:

• chlorophytum;
• epics;
• Saxifraga.

In fact, ready-made planting material with a formed root system grows on the mother plant. The mustache is cut off and planted in the prepared substrate. All that remains is to water.

Reproduction by seeds and spores

1. Propagation by seeds

Houseplants practically do not receive it. This is a very complex method that requires not only special knowledge, but also the creation of certain conditions.

Although experienced flower growers know several plants that reproduce only by seeds. This is exacum and thunbergia.

Pour a high-quality substrate into the pot and tamp it down a little. Spill hot water. After cooling, sow the seeds. If they are large, then sprinkle soil on top. Small seeds are left on the surface. The pot is covered with cellophane and placed in a warm place. For seed germination, a temperature of 16 to 20 degrees is required.

When the first sprout appears, the bag is removed and the pot is placed in a bright window.

Remember

Plants are afraid of direct sunlight! Water as the top lump of earth dries out. To keep the plants even, they are turned daily. Picking seedlings is carried out when the plants are stronger.

1. Reproduction by spores

Fern-like houseplants reproduce by spores. The spores mature in the sporangia of the fronds. They need to be collected in a paper bag. The spores lose their germination within two days, so after collection they should be immediately distributed onto sterilized soil. There is no need to cover it with soil.

The container with the sown spores is covered with glass and put in a warm place, but the sun should not fall on it. After a while, green spots can be seen on the surface of the soil - these are seedlings. Water as needed. When the plants grow up, they are transplanted to a permanent place.

Let's sum it up

As you can see, if you have patience, you can always grow a beautiful indoor plant with your own hands. The main thing is to realize the significance of the work ahead, to know the names of your green pets. Then you can choose the right propagation method and get beautiful plants that will delight you with flowers or colorful leaves.

Not every torn leaf will take root in water. There are more reliable methods for propagating indoor plants.

Last time we were replanting flowers, now it comes to old overgrown plants that need to be renewed. Of course, all the methods discussed below are also suitable if you want to expand your home flower garden without financial expenses or give someone a flower specimen you like in your home as a gift.

Experts advise propagating indoor plants in spring and early summer. However, cuttings of fuchsia and geranium take root better in August-September.

So, the methods of propagation and the plants to which they apply.

1. Stem cuttings and leaves

The most common method that can be used all year round. It is suitable for most indoor plants.

• choose a strong, healthy, non-flowering shoot (the cutting must be at least 7 cm long) or a strong leaf.
• cut it with a blade or a sharp knife: the stem is below the leaf node, the leaf is strictly across.
• place in soil.

Cactus cuttings, as well as large leaves of succulents (crassula, sedum), must first be dried for several days before planting so that they do not rot in the pot.

Bulbous plants (for example, hippeastrum) also produce a kind of offspring - these are small bulbous children. When planted in a separate pot, they usually bloom in 1–2 years.

4. Mustache

Everything here is like strawberries. If the young plant formed on the tendril already has roots, the tendril can be cut immediately; if there are no roots yet, the young plant should be buried and only after rooting should it be separated from the main flower.

Plants: chlorophytum, tolmia, saxifraga, Kalanchoe Degremona.

5. Dividing the bush

To separate daughter bushes and rosettes, remove the plant completely from the ground, shake off the roots and carefully break the stem at the junction or cut it with a knife. Under no circumstances should you tear up the plant!

Plants: violet, sansevieria, cyperus, chlorophytum, arrowroot, ferns.

6. Air layering

This method is used for overgrown plants with long, bare stems that have lost their decorative properties. Estimate how much you would like to shorten the stem and make a cut in this place, removing the bark in an area of ​​1.5 cm. (Keep in mind that if the length of the cutting is more than 60 cm, it is unlikely to take root.) This section of the stem should be covered with sphagnum and wrap it with polyethylene, securing it to the stem with wire in two places - above and below the cut. You will get a kind of hanging pot. After a couple of months, the roots will become visible through the polyethylene. When this happens, you can safely cut off the cuttings under the bottom wire and root the new plant in the ground. Don’t rush to throw away the pot with the remaining “stump”: with regular watering you will get lateral shoots, which you can then also root.

Plants: dracaena, ficus, monstera, dieffenbachia.

Entertaining botany

For those who are especially keen, there are more intricate methods that give no less impressive results. So, you can root:

• part of the sheet: It is enough to stick a small triangle cut from a royal begonia leaf or a rectangle from a sansevieria leaf into the ground to form a new plant.
• stem piece: the old stem that has shed its leaves is cut into “sausages” and “planted” in the ground either horizontally or vertically. It is important that there is at least one node on each piece of stem. This method is good for Dieffenbachia and Dracaena.
• seeds: at a temperature of 16–20°C you can germinate coleus “nettle”.
• disputes: all fern fans can watch at home how tiny green sprouts appear from spores under glass in a pot.

In preparing the article, materials from the book by D.R. were used. Hession "All about indoor plants."

The name of one of the areas of distribution of wild forms of the plant - the Uzambara Mountains - served as the basis for the name - Usambara violet. In another name - Saintpaulia (Saintpaulia) – the name of its discoverer, Saint-Paul, is immortalized. There are 20 species of Saintpaulias that grow in nature. House plants (most) trace their ancestry back to Saintpaulia violetflower (Saintpaulia ionanta), the seeds of which were the first to be brought to Europe.

Literally everything about Saintpaulias is attractive: “velor” leaves, proportional rosettes and delicate pastel or, conversely, expressive bright petals.

Saintpaulia leaves are colored in all shades of green, some have reddish and beige shades. In variegated varieties, various spots and stripes are scattered throughout the leaf blade, and young leaves can be completely white. Their shape is round or heart-shaped, the edges are smooth or wavy. Some leaves have long petioles, while others have short petioles. All the leaves are pubescent, and this gives them additional charm. The stem of Usambara violets is short, and the leaves are concentrated in such a way that they form a rosette.

The flowers, consisting of five petals, are collected in equally attractive tight or loose clusters. Inflorescences consist of 2-7 components. Such small bouquets can be scattered throughout the outlet. With abundant flowering, these inflorescences are perceived as a single large bouquet, creating a large spot of color in the interior. If pollination has occurred, a fruit capsule with small seeds is set. Pollination is carried out artificially and is the basis for breeding varieties.

Variety of varieties

All varieties of this plant are bred artificially. At the moment, there are more than 32 thousand varieties of Saintpaulia, and new ones appear every year.

The classification of Saintpaulias takes into account the different shapes and colors of leaves and petals, and the sizes of rosettes. Already in the names themselves their external features are laid down - bordered, fantasy, chimera, spotted, star-shaped, classic. Edges, spots, stripes on leaves, petals of various colors, their varied shapes - all this causes surprise and admiration among amateurs, and for breeders it is a purposeful work.

Separate groups are identified and often named based on some characteristic; such a loose classification leads to some confusion. There is a standard classification in the world that includes the following groups of characteristics.

By flowers Saintpaulias are divided into 2 groups.

1. By type there are simple, double and semi-double, star-shaped, fringed, “wasp”, “bell”. Simple flowers have a graceful shape, while double flowers with many petals create luxurious bouquets. Star-shaped petals have an unusual star-shaped petal, while fringed petals have corrugated petals. The "wasp" flowers have lip-folded upper petals, and the "bell-shaped" flowers resemble bell flowers.
2. There are 9 colors distinguished by color and designated by the letter of the English alphabet - blue (B), multi-colored (C), pink (P), orchid (O), red (R), purple (V), white (W), two-color (X) , yellow (Y).

Leaves vary in shape and color.

1. 9 types are noted in shape and designated by numbers - long-leaved (1), regular (2), quilted (3), oboval (4), fringed (5), large, densely pubescent (6), variegated (7), spoon-shaped ( 8), pointed (9).
2. The color of the leaves varies from green to almost white.

Size is determined by rosettes and flowers

1. Based on the diameter of the rosette, Saintpaulias are divided into microminiature (up to 6 cm), miniature (up to 15 cm), semi-miniature (does not reach 20 cm), standard (approximately 20-40 cm), large (up to 60 cm) and accordingly they are assigned the designation mM , M, sM, S, L.
2. Plants are divided according to the diameter of the flowers into small-flowered (less than 2 cm), medium-sized (about 4 cm), with large flowers (about 4-6 cm), and with especially large flowers (more than 6 cm).

In one of the most popular groups of fantasy varieties, you can see an unusual and bizarre combination of spots, dots, strokes, splashes, the color of which contrasts with the main color of the petals. Romantic names are given to such Saintpaulias - Fantasy Fiesta, Rainbow's Quiet Riot,Stormy Sandy, Crystal Plum etc.

Other popular Saintpaulias, the so-called chimeras, are characterized by star-shaped petals. They have such different genetics (hence the name) that propagation by leaves will never produce the original variety. Therefore, they are propagated by daughter rosettes and peduncles. These are very rare and expensive Saintpaulias. Angel PetticoatsClam, PowerConcord, Princess K’Rei, Sanin N`Lace, Victorian Parasol, Ness Dream Maker, Lyon’s Crown Jewel – varieties that can be found in domestic collections.

Another group is variegated, distinguished by the color of the leaves. The leaves of these plants have little chlorophyll, which gives them their green color. In its absence, other pigments immediately become visible, always present in green leaves - xanthophyll, anthocyanin, carotene, which give the leaves a red, pink, yellow color. The combination of areas without pigments and different colored pigments in the leaf produces beautiful leaves that are pleasing to the eye, even if the plants are not blooming. Young leaves can be completely white, coloring appears as they mature. The most popular types of variegation are: Champion, Lillian Jarret, Tommie Lou.

Why do some people have violet rosettes that grow for decades, while others barely reach a month of life with each attempt at breeding? It is believed that Saintpaulias grow quite well at home. Why then are there frequent complaints: “They die on me all the time, help me,” “For some reason they don’t take root with me”? It's all about system errors. You need to figure out what mistake you are constantly making. To do this, you need to know well how to maintain this wonderful plant.

The first thing you need to do is choose the right size pot. The plant should not waste energy growing roots, so the pot should not be large, otherwise Saintpaulia will not bloom for a long time. The ideal diameter of the pot is one third of the diameter of the rosette. If you choose a deep container, then you need to put a thick layer of drainage made of expanded clay, broken brick or foam on the bottom, since the roots of Saintpaulia are located on top. Stagnation of water is unacceptable for this plant.

The soil should be loose. Each gardener has his own recipes for mixtures. Choose based on what you already have. For example, leaf soil (3 parts), river sand (1 part), peat (1 part) with the addition of sphagnum moss (1 part) and a little charcoal. When transplanting or after planting, the plant cannot be fed for a month. Then you can use standard fertilizers for flowering plants. Dilute the fertilizer with water, following the instructions, and be sure to dilute the resulting mixture another 2 times.

Indoor violet plants grow well in artificial light. There is only one condition - the lighting must be full (at least 12-15 hours, use fluorescent lamps). Sockets can be placed on any windows. Western and eastern windows are ideal. When kept on southern windows, they must be darkened with transparent curtains; on northern windows, they must be additionally illuminated. Uzambara violets at home need abundant but diffused light.

The most common mistake is made when watering. The standard situation looks like this: the plant was not watered on time and therefore it is watered more than usual next time. This “bay” turns out to be fatal for the plant. It dies. Beginners have a different problem: they run to their beloved first-born, and constantly add water, turning the pot into a swamp. Saintpaulia loves regular watering, but between waterings the soil should dry out a little on top, and any leaked water from the pan should be drained.

The temperature of the content should not fall below 14-15 ˚С. The comfort range for Saintpaulia is 16 - 25 ˚С.

Reproduction by rosettes

If an additional rosette appears on the side of your Saintpaulia, you have a chance to grow a plant that will bloom quickly. It is separated from the mother trunk with some sharp object, and the cut site is treated (with coal, cinnamon). You can root it in water or substrate, then plant it in the soil.

When Saintpaulia is propagated by leaves, flowering will occur only after six months. The cuttings must be carefully cut to 2 - 3 cm in length at an angle of 45˚, process the cut and place in water. After the roots appear, plant them in the soil in a small pot to a depth of no more than 2 cm. Many gardeners root the leaves in gray sand (sphagnum, etc.) in a closed container or simply cover it with a transparent film. In any case, several small rosettes soon appear, which, when transplanted, are separated from each other and planted in a complete earthen mixture in different small pots. Flower stalks can be rooted in the same way, using a similar method.

Propagation by seeds is a complex process, but it is thanks to it that new varieties of Saintpaulia are developed. Like all flowering plants, the pistil and stamens are involved in this process in Saintpaulias. If you want to reproduce your favorite Saintpaulia, pollinate (with a brush, stick, needle) the pistil with pollen from the same plant. To get a plant with new characteristics, pollen must be taken from another Saintpaulia. Both the pistil and stamens must be mature. A mature pistil has a wet droplet at the end, and pollen easily falls out of the mature anthers of the stamens. If pollination has occurred, the seeds in the box will ripen in 5-6 months and remain viable for six months to a year. Very small seeds are sown on a compacted soil mixture and covered with glass or plastic bags are used. Maintain humidity; the substrate should not be flooded with water. After 3 weeks, Saintpaulia crumbs appear from the seeds. Try it - it might work!

When does Saintpaulia have no place in the house?

Sometimes they ask: “Is it possible to keep violets at home?”, meaning many contradictory signs - positive and not so positive. From a common sense and environmental point of view, these flower rosettes are absolutely harmless. And, of course, you can keep it at home. If you believe, for example, not that she allegedly expels a man from the house, but trust supporters of the opposite point of view: Saintpaulia brings harmony to the house and helps to avoid quarrels. After all, it is known that most often what you expect comes true.

According to Feng Shui, she has feminine energy (“Yin”). And as you know, one of the laws of life in accordance with this philosophy is to create a balance between male and female energy. Therefore, the conclusion is this: in addition to Saintpaulia, keep plants with masculine energy (“Yang”). But if you don’t live according to Feng Shui and if you love this plant with all your heart and forever, fill your home with them and enjoy their continuous flowering.

Interior designers very often in their practice resort to using various plants as decorative elements to create coziness, liveliness and harmony of the room. Particularly popular in this area is echeveria (echeveria) or stone rose, a flower that is often grown at home, although this is not always easy. Like any other representative of the flora, this plant requires special care and attention, and has different types and varieties.

Echeveria succulent - home decoration

Echeverias are low-growing, decorative succulents, belong to the family Crassulaceae(Crasulaceae). There are more than 100 species. An interesting fact is that the flower got its name in honor of a Mexican artist who characterized the flora of his country with the help of illustrations. To describe a plant such as echeveria, first of all, you need to start with the fact that it is stemless, perennial and herbaceous. Usually it reaches a height of no more than 20 cm. In order to protect itself from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, the plant is covered with either light fluff or a gray waxy coating.

Please note that the type of cover depends on the types and varieties of echeveria - this is clearly demonstrated by photos with names that you can study below:

It is not for nothing that the stone rose is used all over the world for aesthetic purposes, because during flowering it really pleases the eye. First of all, a very long peduncle is thrown out, which can be more than 90 cm, and already on it inflorescences of flowers of various bright shades are formed. The inflorescences themselves can be either straight or lateral, depending on the type of plant.

Particular attention should be paid to the leaves of the echeveria flower - they:

• Tough.
• Watery.
• Triangular-oval shape.
• Full-edged.
• Thick.
• Petiolateless.
• Sedentary.
• The next ones.

The leaves, pubescent or covered with bloom, form a rosette, which is placed on a thick stem. – green or brown, depending on the type. Specimens of blue-green, gray, purple and even pink colors are also observed. Very attractive is the fact that the color can vary depending on weather conditions. That's why echeveria is a decoration for any home. Over time, the lower leaves dry out and die, but this can also happen in the winter if the plant is warm.

Inflorescences appear on the side of the rosette, depending on the species or variety, in winter, spring or summer.

The flowers themselves are small, reaching about 1 cm in length, becoming bell-shaped and brightly colored: red, orange, yellow. It is noteworthy that depending, again, on the species, the plant can bloom either many times or once, after which it dies.

Types and varieties of echeveria: photos, names and descriptions of plant varieties

It is known that the birthplace of this plant is the Southern regions of the USA, Central and South America. But despite this, there is a considerable variety of rock rose species all over the world. All of them are quite unpretentious in care and, in particular, this has earned them such great popularity among designers and aesthetes. By crossing natural species of the Echeveria flower, hybrid varieties and varieties have been artificially bred for decorative purposes. So it’s worth taking a closer look at which types of plants are most popular.

Echeveria graceful can easily be put in first place in terms of prevalence in terms of room decoration. This flower probably best matches the name “stone rose” due to its resemblance. First of all, this is facilitated by the presence of a bluish-white coating on the leaves, which are very close to each other.

Another advantage is the appearance of orange or red flowers in the summer.

Look at this type of echeveria flowers in the photo below:

All of them are characterized by a thin stem, white or very light leaves, spines at their bases, and rosettes that reach up to 15 cm are formed in the leaf axils and side shoots.

Agave echeveria is also often found, and there is nothing strange about this, because the spring appearance of the plant is simply striking in its unusualness. The first feature is the pointed leaves, the second is their symmetrical arrangement and the formation of a water lily shape, the third and, perhaps, the main one is that the edges of the leaves are painted pink. And in summer, pink or yellow flowers will also delight the eye.

It is natural that a description with a name will not give a complete picture of the plant, and it is better to look at the photo of Echeveria agave, presented below:

The next species is Echeveria Lau:

This flower also has a number of its own characteristics. Its leaves are not so closely spaced and their number is smaller than that of other representatives. Both the leaves and flowers are covered with a bluish-white coating, which gives the plant its peculiarity. Flowers can reach 2 cm in diameter. In addition, this type of plant develops much slower than others and requires much more attention.

Of the pubescent species of Echeveria, the following varieties are distinguished:

• Cushion-shaped.
• Hairy.
• Crimson.

All of them are distinguished by the bright green color of the leaves and their velvety coating. Only Echeveria purpurea shows redness at the edges.

Echeveria splendor also has an unusual appearance. Its leaves are striking in their geometric shape and color, although they reach a length of about 10 cm. Peduncles usually grow up to 50 cm. They bear inflorescences, which can be tassels or umbrellas; you can admire them only in winter.

Particular attention should be paid to Echeveria hump-flowered, photos of the varieties of which are presented below, namely:

Carunculata

Crispata

Metallica

All of them are characterized by an unusual leaf shape and a straight stem, as well as a bright spike. In this case, the blade of the plant can reach a length of 20 cm and a width of 15 cm. The main feature of these varieties of humpback-flowered echeveria is that the leaves are usually concave inward. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to see the flowers of all these plants when it comes to growing them at home. By the way, the flowering process occurs in winter and autumn.

As you can see in the photo, the color of the plant can be either gray or with a metallic tint:

The variety “Pearl of Nuremberg” is generally distinguished by its red-brown color:

The humpbacked flower also includes such a popular variety of echeveria flower as “Black Prince”, the color of which is pink-gray:

The photo below shows different types of echeveria and their official names:

Conditions for growing echeveria: lighting and temperature

Since the natural location of the flower is Mexico, as well as the Southern and Central regions of the United States, where there is bright sunlight all year round, then in the summer it is best to keep the plant outdoors - take it to the balcony or to the garden. Fresh air is an important aspect of echeveria care and propagation. Do not forget that in this case the flower will need to be protected from rain.

It is necessary to recreate as much as possible the conditions that exist in the natural environment and that are suitable for the flower.

When it comes to lighting, the main thing to remember is that:

• The plant is light-loving and direct exposure to sunlight is a must.
• A little shading in summer will also have a beneficial effect.
• When choosing where exactly to place a flower in an apartment, give your preference to windows that face south.

It is worth paying attention to the temperature in the process of caring for echeveria and its propagation at home: in summer - outside air temperature, in winter 5-10 ° C; for flowering plants – higher. This means that it is in the summer that the room air temperature approaches the same thermometer readings as in the flower’s natural habitat, namely 27-30°C. In winter, care must be taken to ensure that the sockets do not become loose or stretched out.

It is for this purpose that it is recommended to create cooler temperature conditions; 8°C is the ideal solution. When organizing care for echeveria at home, remember that the leaves of the plant are very sensitive to sudden temperature changes.

How to care for echeveria: proper watering

When wondering how to properly care for echeveria, you definitely need to pay attention to proper watering: water little by little in summer, and almost never water non-flowering plants in winter. It is worth understanding this issue in more detail.

As for the warm season, namely the period from May to September, the plant needs to be irrigated once a week. It should be remembered that moisture should penetrate 2/3 of the entire soil in the pot, that is, only the upper part needs to be moistened.

This is due to the fact that the plant is accustomed to an arid climate. An important nuance is that it is recommended to avoid getting water on the leaves themselves, as this can cause damage to their pubescence or waxy coating. Also, water can accumulate, which leads to the process of rotting of the plant. Echeveria is often irrigated at home using a tray, that is, water is poured into it and thus the flower nourishes moisture. But in this case, it is worth regularly draining the remaining liquid.

When addressing the issue of air humidity, you need to remember the following:

• She should hit it low.
• There is no need to spray the plant.
• Sometimes you can wipe the leaves with a damp cloth or cotton wool, but do it carefully, as you can easily damage the waxy shell.

If the flower is characterized by pubescent leaves, then even rubbing is prohibited, because echeveria is a succulent. This means that the plant has special tissues to store water, and drops in summer when exposed to direct sunlight can even lead to burns.

How to grow echeveria correctly (with video)

The next very important issue is proper soil preparation. This should be a substrate: soil for cacti or a standard greenhouse soil mixture. It is best to choose loose substrates that are low in nutrition and neutral. You can buy ready-made soil for succulents in the store, but remember that half of it should be sand.

You can also prepare your own soil mixture for echeveria, as shown in the video:

There are several options for this. Firstly, you can use one part of a ready-made store-bought substrate, add coarse river sand and finely ground brick chips to it. An admixture of charcoal will not be superfluous either. It will help protect the plant from root rot. The second option is to mix leaf and turf soil in equal proportions with the addition of sand. You can also mix clay soil, peat and coarse sand in equal proportions.

It is possible for the sand to exceed the other components in volume. It is necessary to protect the flower from stagnation of water in the soil. Therefore, a small layer of sand is poured into the bottom of a shallow wide pot as drainage.

The issue of feeding is also very relevant: From March to August, apply weekly small doses of fertilizer for cacti. Fertilizers such as “Pokon”, “Green world”, “Bio Dom”, “Bona Forte” are noted to be of excellent quality.

In this case, you should dilute them to half the concentration indicated on the package, and add fertilizer to the water for irrigation. Remember that the plant is accustomed to neutral, low-nutrient soil in natural conditions. An excess of minerals and fertilizers can harm the delicate root system of a flower and subsequently appear on its appearance.

Echeveria transplant

In this matter, it is important to remember that echeveria, especially domestic echeveria, is a very fragile and delicate flower, so when replanting it you need to be especially careful and attentive. Remember the main rules: it is recommended to replant young plants annually, older ones only when necessary. It is better to do this when the flower is experiencing a lack of space. This is usually done approximately once every 4 years. The process consists of the following steps.

Select the appropriate one, namely: wide, shallow, ceramic. Its bottom is covered with pebbles or tiles. The purchased or prepared substrate is poured. Next, the plant is removed from the old soil and inspected to see if there are any damaged areas that must be cut off. The cut areas are filled with activated carbon. The flower goes deep into the soil, which should be well moistened.

Remember that no additional soil moisture will be required throughout the next week.

How to propagate echeveria and how to properly root the plant when planting

There are three main options for how to propagate echeveria:

• Using seeds.
• Leaves.
• Rooting the tops.

The first option is the most difficult and takes the most time.. The catch is that the grower pollinates the flowers himself, and then the seeds ripen on their own. The main thing is to collect them on time. To sow them, you need to choose the right soil, preferably acidic. The seeds are laid out on its surface and under no circumstances are they sprinkled with soil on top. When choosing a container for growing them, give preference to transparent containers with the same lid and a high-quality drainage system. Future plants should be placed in a place where the air temperature will be at least 25-30°C. For echeveria using seeds you will also need fairly high air humidity.

Remember: This option, how to grow new specimens of echeveria, does not always give the desired results. Most of these experiments end in failure. But if successful, by correctly following all the recommendations and instructions, you can get a harvest of many sprouts.

The next method is reproduction. This option is the main one. First you need to completely separate the leaf from the plant. To ensure that the new specimen does not begin to rot, the separated sheet must be dried in air.

Next, you should take care of preparing the substrate and thoroughly moisten it. A sheet is laid out on the surface. The main thing is that the top side is on the outside. Place the container with leaves in a room with an air temperature of at least 20 °C and diffused sunlight.

All these actions are the answer to how you can root echeveria. After all, a few weeks after the work done, you can observe that the leaf has taken root. After another month, a socket is already presented to the eye. After its appearance, the plant is ready to be transplanted into the main soil for further development. By the way, in the summer all these processes will take place at an accelerated pace, perhaps even more than one outlet will appear.

Propagation of the echeveria flower at home is often carried out using the rosette itself. It is considered a backup option, because not all types of plants can be propagated using leaves. First you need to separate the rosette from the main plant. At the same time, do not forget to lubricate the cut areas with charcoal. Afterwards, the separated part must be dried in air before the next step. This will take about 12 hours. The next step is to place the socket in the soil. You can use either sand or a prepared substrate.

The main thing is to moisturize it thoroughly. The advantages of such propagation and planting of echeveria are that the plant will be able to produce flowers faster and will develop more actively.

Thus, the main rule: it is better to propagate after flowering using lateral rosettes or leaf cuttings at a soil temperature of 20 ° C. Dry the cuttings and stick them into a sandy substrate.

Probably the most dangerous thing that can happen when caring for an echeveria flower is root rot. The whole point is that the damaged plant cannot be saved; all that remains is to throw it away, leaving only the healthy parts, so that they can be rooted later. In this case, the roots of the succulent become soft, loose, black and smelly. The next stage is the rotting of the trunk itself and the leaves. Until this happens, it is best to replant and before doing so, disinfect the pot, tray and soil itself, if possible. It is also necessary to cut off all affected areas with a sharp knife, and cover the cut areas with activated carbon. But if this is not done in time, then the echeveria leaves turn yellow and fall off, and then the whole flower dies.

Root bugs also pose a threat. It penetrates the root system of the plant and sucks out all the juices from it. Symptoms of infection are as follows:

• Yellowing and wrinkling of leaves.
• Stopping growth.
• Gray-white coating.
• Fading color of the plant.

In this case, various insecticides are used, as well as plant replanting. “Aktara”, “Mospilan”, “Dantop”, “Regent” are perfect.

It is enough to simply water the soil with these preparations.