We recently bought coffee table, the price is inexpensive, but there is a “but”. The height of the table is too big for our interior. It would be nice to reduce the height of centimeters by 10. As they say, we are not looking for easy ways, I decided that

I can handle it with my own hands.

I remembered that on our website there is an asoleg specialist who did it, I am, of course, far from him, but some recommendations may help. I contacted him, explained the problem and he kindly shared his secret. With his permission, I publish his cutting technology furniture chipboard no chips.

Everything turned out to be banally simple. Mark the cutting line. Then, using a stationery knife, along a ruler, we cut upper layer Chipboard. Just run the knife several times with little effort along the cut line. (I recommend practicing on an unnecessary piece of wood particle board) If you press very hard, then decorative layer It will start to swell and it won’t turn out very nice.

Next, retreating 1-2 millimeters from the intended line towards the rough part, we cut with a jigsaw or a suitable saw with teeth directed towards the saw handle. Let's drink it up opposite side cut to avoid chipping when finishing the cut. And saw through to the end. You need to cut carefully, slowly. Then, using medium-grain sandpaper attached to a block, we clean the end of the part. If necessary, we remove the millimeter that we retreated. My cut turned out almost perfect; after sanding, there were no burrs at all. The photo shows the difference between the left and right side of the cut. Well, accordingly, if both parts of the chipboard are needed, we cut with a knife on both sides of the cut. We measure the thickness of the cut with a jigsaw or file and add 2 millimeters. The result is the distance that should be between the slits made with a stationery knife. We cut exactly between these lines. Then there will be no scuffing on the other side either. Naturally, you need to use a sharp tool, I use a tool.

Everything turned out great. On the finished table, my wife did not find the place where I cut.

Thank you for your assistance and assistance asoleg.

Tags: How to cut chipboard without chipping, how to cut chipboard without chipping.

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If you like to do things with your own hands, read the article.

It is believed that without professional tools it is impossible to make high-quality cuts of wood or sheet materials. Today we will talk about ways to make a clean, even cut without chips, on your own and without using expensive equipment and consumables.

Cutting tools and the mechanics of their work

If you do not take into account stationary sawing machines, alternatives for self made not so much. Among the available tools, we can offer circular and pendulum saws, commonly referred to as miter saws and jigsaws. It is also possible to perform a sufficiently high-quality cut with using an angle grinder, on which it is installed saw blade on wood with pobedit teeth. But this is not the most effective and, moreover, far from safe option.

In the process of cutting with any type of power tool, the working parts move at a very high speed, and therefore the mechanics of processing remain behind the scenes. However, understanding it is the key to getting a clean, chip-free edge. The simplest principle underlies the operation of pendulum saws. The cut is carried out with direct movement of the saw blade, and the size of the removed fragments completely depends on the size of the tooth and its setting.

Chips appear due to the inhomogeneity of the processed material, in particular due to the hard crust of laminated sheet materials or because the fibers solid wood have different densities. Chips can form on different sides of the product depending on the shape of the tooth, the feed force and the speed of movement of the working element. When working with a jigsaw, the appearance of chips is caused either by the fact that the teeth tear out large fragments from the reverse side, or by pushing through the top layer, during which it is not cut off, but breaks out in large fragments.

Working teeth circular disk in many ways similar to a jigsaw, with the only exception that their movement is directed strictly in one direction, and they move at a very high speed. Also a significant factor is the direction (angle) of the applied force: if the jigsaw blade moves strictly perpendicular to the surface, then the circular saw cuts at an arbitrary angle, depending on both the diameter of the disk and the thickness of the part. This can work to your advantage: the oblique immersion of the tooth contributes to more accurate cutting of chips, but with reverse side Due to the tangential movement of the cutting edges, quite large fragments can be torn out. Of course, you can only make a straight cut with a circular saw.

Selection of saw blades and blades

When cutting, cleanliness and processing speed are inversely dependent quantities. It is worth noting that chips on the cut will appear in any case, so the main task is to reduce their size to such a value that they can be easily eliminated by subsequent processing. The smaller the size of the tooth and the closer to right angle, under which cutting edge touches the surface of the material. To select a circular saw blade, these are the two most important factors out of three.

The third can be called the amount of setting - the displacement of adjacent teeth, which can be easily determined by applying a ruler to them. To ensure a clean cut, the routing should be minimal, but do not forget that in this case, when trying to cut a thick board or sheet of plywood, the disk may simply jam or the end will burn from strong friction.

Jigsaw blades are more varied. For cutting without chipping, a series of clean-cutting saws are used, for example, BOSCH has a line of blades called CleanWood. Their main difference is their small size and lack of pronounced tooth orientation. They usually have the shape of an isosceles triangle and cut in both directions of movement.

Also, saws for clean cutting are distinguished by the almost complete absence of setting and the opposite direction of sharpening of adjacent teeth. In order to ensure the possibility of a figured cut with a small setting, the files have a very small width, which is why they become quite fragile.

For finishing cutting of sheet materials, blades designed to work with metal products. These files have smallest size teeth are from known ones, so the cut is performed slowly, but with the highest quality indicator. Due to the significant width of metal blades, finishing figured cuts can only be carried out with a significant bending radius, on average about 60-80 cm.

Please also note that dull teeth, which is typical for low-quality saw blades with a “mileage” of 3-5 meters, also leads to the formation of chips. Therefore, do not skimp when purchasing consumables if the quality of processing is really important to you.

Zero gap technique

The principle of finishing the sole is most often used by carpentry craftsmen. cutting tool, which consists in reducing the gap between the working body and the pressure platform. This is almost guaranteed to eliminate the effect of “breaking” the crust in the top layer of the material.

Zero clearance is achieved by securing the cover plate to the tool base. The pad has only one narrow hole (or slot) that fits tightly to the cutting organ. Because of this, even with a high feed force, the teeth are guaranteed to cut off small chips and not turn out the chips in the upper layer of the part.

When using overlays, it is extremely important that they do not scratch or damage the surface of the part. Therefore, they are most often made from a material that is inferior in hardness to the material being processed, for example MDF or plasterboard. Unfortunately, such an overlay does not last long, which is why it has to be changed every 4-5 meters of the cut.

More durable linings can be made from sheet plastic (PVC, fluoroplastic), fiberglass or metal. In the latter case, the surface of the lining must be carefully polished and soft metals such as aluminum or duralumin must be used to reduce vibration.

Using adhesive tapes

Using the same principle, you can protect the back side of the material being cut. Tape should be placed along the cutting line to protect against large fragments being torn out. Pasting surfaces is one of the few ways to ensure the cleanliness of a curved cut with a jigsaw. Unfortunately, masking tape is not suitable for this. in the best possible way due to its low strength.

The highest quality cut can be obtained by gluing the part with aluminum or fiberglass reinforced tape It should be wide enough to cover 15-20 mm on each side of the cutting line. The density of the sticker is also important: the tape must be pressed down well with a dry cloth swab and the formation of folds must be prevented by any means.

You should avoid tapes with very tenacious adhesive. During the tearing process, they can carry along small fibers and fragments of the laminated surface, dissected by microcracks that form during cutting. Also pay attention to how easily traces of glue are removed and whether the adhesive adheres well enough to work with rough materials such as unsanded plywood or OSB.

Ensuring a perfectly clean cut

For most parts, it is enough to reduce the chip size to 0.2-0.5 mm. Such small irregularities in the cut edge are not noticeable; if desired, they can be easily eliminated by chamfering with an emery block or covering them with a wax corrector pencil. End grinding is also possible sandpaper, if a sufficient allowance was given during cutting.

However, even at home, it is possible to achieve a cut quality comparable to the result of a cutting machine with two high-speed disks. This is only possible when the tool moves along a guide rail, or, in extreme cases, along a temporary stop bar.

First you need to make two cuts about 0.5 mm deep on both sides of the part to indicate the thickness of the cut. Along the edges of the cutting line, you need to scratch two grooves under an even ruler. This is done either with a segmented or oblique shoemaker's knife (for chipboard and uncoated wood), or with a sharply sharpened drill or pobedit cutter (for laminated materials).

The depth of the grooves should be at least half the thickness of the outer layer, which is non-uniform in relation to the main body of material. This method requires high precision matching the grooves and the cutting line, but this is the only way to really ensure a perfectly even cut end that does not require additional processing.

In the process of making furniture yourself, the contractor may need to cut or trim the laminated chipboard for subsequent use. Of course it's best this operation This can be done by sawing, but if necessary and to reduce labor intensity, it is quite possible to cut laminated chipboard at home (using a jigsaw). Moreover, it is very important to implement this procedure in such a way as to minimize the number of chips and thereby create an even cut.

Why do chips appear?

Before cutting laminated chipboard or laminate using a jigsaw, it is advisable to understand why chips form when cutting sheet material. And the answer here is simple: everything lies in the design of the jigsaw, or rather in the design of the nail file.

So, during the cutting process, the file receives return movements (up and down). And if when the saw moves along the teeth (usually downwards), chips practically do not form, then when the tool moves in the opposite direction, the teeth seem to tear out the top layer of material, thereby forming an unpleasant chip. This is why you can observe an almost perfect cut on the bottom side of the chipboard and a chipped cut along its upper edge.

Ways to minimize chipping

An additional reason for the formation of chips may be misalignment of the saw teeth. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is purchase a tool with a straight cut (often Bosh files). However, it should be taken into account that when long work, such files overheat and may even bend during the cutting process. Therefore, it is necessary to take breaks from work to cool the cutting tool.

However, just replacing the saw blade is not enough and in order to cut laminated chipboard (laminate) with a jigsaw without chipping, you need to make minor modifications to the power tool. Namely, make sure that when the saw moves against the inclination of the tooth, the material does not pull out. For this purpose it is enough to make a persistent platform. You can come to this conclusion by trying to cut two sheets of chipboard at the same time. So there will be practically no chips on the lower element.

In order to make a stop pad for a jigsaw, it is enough to cut out a rectangle from any dense material (for example, laminate) with dimensions identical to the dimensions of the sole of the power tool.

Then, along the larger center line, you should make a notch and secure the resulting equipment to the sole of the jigsaw using insulating tape or double sided tape. All modifications are ready and finishing work can be carried out in compliance with certain recommendations.

Firstly, as mentioned above, you should use a jigsaw file with a straight cut.

Secondly, in order to better control the cutting process, it is justified to apply a marking line on both sides of the chipboard and check the accuracy of the processing from above and below.

And thirdly, take constant breaks from work to cool the cutting equipment.

Sometimes the solution to this issue can be simply cutting through the laminated layer of material using a mounting knife, and subsequent work with a jigsaw will no longer cause large defects in the form of chips. However this work requires the performer to have certain experience and accuracy.

How to nag chipboard without chips

How to cut laminated chipboard without chipping?

laminated chipboard. This is a well-known particle board, finely sanded and covered with a paper-resin film. Lamination is carried out under a pressure of 25-28 MPa at a temperature of 140-210 C. How to cut chipboard without chipping. How to cut with an electric jigsaw without chipping. The coating is durable, beautiful, resistant to mechanical damage and thermal effects, which makes laminated chipboard very attractive for furniture production And interior decoration premises.

Many home craftsmen prefer self-production furniture and buy high-quality chipboard in construction stores or from manufacturers. How to cut with a jigsaw without chipping on one and both sides, and also what files need to be used to cut so that there are no chips. Fortunately, the wide range of colors of laminated coatings allows you to easily choose the most suitable one. suitable material. The surface texture is also varied: it can be smooth, imitating wood or a natural stone, embossed with shagreen or wood pores.

But to make with my own hands unique furniture or exclusive interior, it’s not enough to just buy laminated chipboard and cut it according to patterns. The thin laminated coating has a fragile structure. With rough, illiterate actions, the cut turns out to be torn, and deep cavities appear on the edges of the coating. To cut laminated chipboard without chips and cracks, you need to know some tricks of working with it.

Rules for sawing laminated chipboard

A custom cut will be smoother

High-quality sawing of chipboard is difficult to do manually due to big size sheets. Dimensions standard plate 2440x1200, and that's not the limit. Methods chipboard processing: how to cut chipboard before sawing how to cut chipboard without chipping. We saw the tabletop without chipping. How to drill a big one and how to nag electro. However, if you work with chipboard or MDF quite often, it makes sense to get an expensive tool and work for your own pleasure. If you only need to cut a few sheets, you can go two ways:

• Cut the slabs yourself using available hand tools
• Order cutting of chipboard in a specialized workshop.

• Tools and materials
• How to cut chipboard without chips?
• Figure cutting
• What not to cut chipboard

?? We saw chipboard without chips

In this video case I offer an option to nag laminated chipboard no chips, without resorting to format-cutting machines, submersible.

If you have at least once tried to cut chipboard with your own hands, then you know for sure that this work is by no means easy and does not require so much skill, but at the same time the presence good tool. Laminated chipboard is especially difficult to process; when cutting it, many chips often form. Therefore, probably the craftsmen, faced with such a problem, come to the conclusion that it is better to cut chipboard when making a purchase, especially since probably trading organizations provide similar services and their prices are quite reasonable.

Chipboard sawing is carried out using precise format-cutting machines, which help to obtain workpieces of a given size and shape.

Modern models allow you to cut smoothly slab materials not only in a horizontal and vertical direction, but at an angle.

In addition to cutting sheets, they will help you calculate them and provide in the form of a visual video file several options for competent and economical cutting of sheet material (using special programs) and, if necessary, perform edging. However, if for some reason you prefer to do this work yourself, you will have to do some preparatory work while sawing the chipboard.

Tools and materials

If possible, it is preferable to cut chipboard using a hand router using homemade guides. Tell me how to cut chipboard without chipping; all these saws allow to nag chipboard without chips. This method is not very convenient when cutting large sheets, because when working with this tool, a table is required. Today, in this case, the method requires frequent replacement of cutters. But for a reason, you get purely processed, “trimmed” edges.

An electric jigsaw is the most popular tool for cutting chipboard

Some craftsmen use a jigsaw in their work, however, if they lack the skill, it is difficult to make an even cut, and in addition, chips can form in variations.

There is an option to try installing a bimetallic blade with teeth pointed inward, intended for laminate, on a jigsaw. When cutting with a jigsaw, you should increase the speed, with a small feed, so that breaks do not form.

If such methods do not suit you, then to cut chipboard yourself, we will prepare for work:

• a hacksaw with fine teeth (much would be better suited one that is designed for metal work). In this case, the teeth must be set apart by 1/2.4 of the blade thickness and must not be hardened
• paper adhesive tape
• file for roughing cut line
• sandpaper to finish the cut line.

Read:

How to cut chipboard without chipping?

Before we start cutting chipboard, especially laminated chipboard, we cut a line with a sharp tool so that we can get acquainted with sawing; we do not glue paper tape with a sticky layer along it. This will help minimize damage to the decorative chipboard layer.

To ensure that there are as few chips as possible, it is necessary to direct the movement of the hacksaw under acute angle to the surface (less than 30°). The movements are smooth, without excessive pressure on the plate or sudden jerks.

In this case, however, it was not possible to avoid chipping; we process the cut first with a file, working in the direction from the edges to the center, and finally with fine-grained sandpaper. There is also an option to mask the defects that remain for our client to do, using a flexible profile where necessary.

Figure cutting

It is even more difficult to obtain curved surfaces of a given configuration on your own; here you will have to spend additional money on purchasing a router that will help you get rid of chips no nicks created when you have to cut chipboard.

The price of a hand router can vary significantly depending on the manufacturer, power, availability additional functions. If you do not plan to produce furniture professionally, then it is advisable to purchase an inexpensive model.

To cut chipboard you need to follow these steps:

1. marking on sheet of chipboard contours of the required part, cut it out with a jigsaw, trying to cut a couple of millimeters away from the intended cutting line
2. We make templates of the design radius from fiberboard or plywood; we do not thoroughly sand the ends with sandpaper.
3. Having attached the template to the part to be finished, we clamp it with clamps and process it with a hand-held copying cutter with a bearing, removing excess material exactly to the intended line.

In this case, it does not matter which cutter (with two or four knives is used). The only condition is that the knives must be able to grasp the thickness of the cut being processed at its entire height. After processing, all that remains is to glue the edge onto the part. Watch the video to see how this is done:

What not to cut chipboard

If the volume of work is large enough and the quality requirements are low, some craftsmen advise sawing chipboard at home using a grinder (angle grinder, commonly called an angle grinder). How to saw chipboard; 4. To protect the board from chips, stick it on how to cut chipboard without chips. Here they use a disc designed for working with wood. How to saw off chipboard smoothly without chips and lint. To make cutting easier, a guide bar is secured along the cutting line using clamps. Cutting chipboard using a grinder can be seen in the video.

Today we will tell you what affects the quality of sawing, how to saw off chipboard evenly and cleanly, and also how you can saw with a tire and without a regular guide circular saw.

We will show it using a hand-held circular saw as an example, but this does not affect the sawing techniques in any way, the difference is only in minor details. You can get similar quality cuts with a cheaper tool if you follow our advice.

What affects the quality of chipboard cutting?

IN in this case We will be sawing chipboard, this is the most capricious material for sawing, because it has longitudinal and transverse layers, quite delicate and thin veneer. But on the other hand, it has a hard adhesive base, which will also interfere with us.

Saw blade. How to choose it?

When cutting chipboard, the saw blade must simultaneously cut cleanly and be durable, because the properties of the glue are very close to glass and dull the tool itself quite quickly. Therefore, in the process of cutting chipboard, you need to choose discs that are good enough to cut with them without loss of quality for a long time.

What is the difficulty of sawing with a circular saw with discs?

If we look at the cut of the workpiece, we will see that it is full of burrs, because “by hand” it is practically impossible to guide the saw straight through the cut.

On the saw blade there is a difference in height between the body of the saw itself and the sawing part - the tooth. Due to this distance, the disk has the ability to direct its position in the cut. Accordingly, as soon as it changes its geometry, the rear teeth begin to hit the chipboard workpiece and leave marks on it.

It is important to place the workpiece face down. Why?

The disk rotates from bottom to top; it cuts the pile of the workpiece upward onto the base. Thus, below, on the front side, we always have clean surface. Problems begin to form at the top, where the teeth exit the workpiece. This is how explosions, chips, and piles happen.

How to minimize them, or avoid them altogether? There are several simple techniques and we will tell you about them now.

Technique 1. Cutting along the guide

We install a guide (rail) on the workpiece, set the sawing depth and make the cut. As you can see for yourself, even on outside There are no chips or explosions in our chipboard workpiece. The cut itself was smooth with no signs of scoring or side waves. Why such difference?

What is the merit of the guide?

When we saw with a disk, we inevitably move the saw, the so-called “iron movement” is obtained. That is, when we move our hand, we constantly move the saw to the right and left. A guide that has a hard edge allows you to avoid this.

Accordingly, when we guide the saw along the guide, it does not move and the saw blade itself works smoothly, without changing its position. The result is an ideal line parallel to the guide.

What to do if you don’t have a hand-held circular saw and guide?

You need to make the guide yourself. We find a regular profile, you can take the rule, any smooth slats, the main thing is that its geometry is smooth.

We measure the distance from the saw blade to the edge of your chipboard blank. We attach the guide to the workpiece using any clamp and begin cutting.

The main thing in the process is to constantly press the saw against the guide. That is, your hand should always guide the saw towards the homemade tire.

After cutting, you will get an almost perfect cut, the cut line is barely visible. We performed the cut very well, the cut itself is clean, no side marks are visible on it. With the exception of a small pile on the back side of the workpiece.

Where did this lint come from, since we were working with a guide (tire)?

The purchased cutting bar has a special plastic protective tape. This tape prevents the pile from rising and the saw cuts it. In this case, we didn’t have this tape, so we got this lint on the surface.

What to do with the pile in this case?

There are two options:

1. Take regular masking tape. It is glued to the place of the cut, markings are made on it and sawed together with masking tape. The tape holds the ingrown in place and when cutting we get everything clean.

2. Just drive the saw blade more slowly. That is, if you do the same thing with a slower feed, then there will be much fewer chips.

Technique 2. “Reverse cut.”

The first pass is performed in an unusual manner - in reverse. That is, the circular saw rotates as the workpiece is fed. We set the minimum cutting depth, turn on the saw and move backwards rather than forwards.

If you have a regular saw, then simply fix the saw with minimal overhang beyond the base. The point of the first pass is that the blade, moving along the guide, only catches our workpiece. We need a small groove on the chipboard.

Having made the first - trimming cut - you will make sure that there are no chips with such a feed (backwards). The surface is perfect!

Now we will set the saw to full depth and cut the workpiece along this groove with a regular cut - forward feed. We will get two cuts per workpiece. No wave cuts, arson, nothing - perfect quality!

Video - how to saw off material (chipboard, plywood) without chipping