Bomb shelter

Bomb shelter

To increase the safety of your loved ones and relatives, you can install armored sheets at the entrance to your house, alarms on the windows, hire security and take many other measures. But in the event of a nuclear war, only a bomb shelter designed like a bunker can protect. This could be a bomb shelter at the dacha, in which you can hide from natural disasters, fires or hurricanes, and also wait out any danger in cases where evacuation by other means is impossible.

Do-it-yourself shelters and underground bunkers on a summer cottage are quite legal, since there are no clear prohibitions. It is more difficult to make a bomb shelter with your own hands within the city, since the land plots are owned by the administration or other people. Let's take a closer look at how to build a bomb shelter with your own hands, where and how to find a place for it in the city, photos of typical shelters and bunkers in the house.

Your own bunker on the site can be used by private individuals as a place for a long stay or short-term stay. You can wait out some time in a simple cellar, although the bomb shelter does not contain complex schemes and resembles a cellar with a low earthen floor, walls made of boards or logs and a wooden roof.

There are also no drawings of a long-term bomb shelter, but there are some structural differences - it is necessary to drill wells, purchase and install a septic tank at the base of the pit. And only after this can a layer of concrete be poured as a foundation.

Each owner of the site found many advantages and disadvantages of both options, but they build bomb shelters in the country no deeper than half a meter to groundwater. It is recommended to have a thicker earthen lintel under your feet to prevent waterlogging of the base of the structure. Knowing his property, a person can clearly focus on the depth of groundwater, or check this point with neighbors with a drinking water well.

How to make a short-stay bomb shelter?

The most important thing when arranging bomb shelters is to choose the right place. The shelters made should not be placed under the house or near buildings, high landings or massive structures. The construction of a bomb shelter is carried out exclusively in places where there will be no rubble from destruction during disasters. A fence, a tree, a house - these buildings can collapse due to a shock wave or extreme elements, and the entrance will be blocked. Experts have found a way out - you need to make an emergency exit in case the main one collapses.

By simple calculations you can find out the amount of work in the ground that needs to be done. To hide from the elements for a short time, it is enough to dig three square meters. meters per person. With a building depth of 2 meters, a two-person bomb shelter will be 12 cubic meters. You can do this work yourself within a couple of weeks, maximum, a month.

The optimal location would be on a slope so that the sides of the entrance are covered with natural landscape. From the side, the entrance area is masked by technical buildings, a toilet or shed, large trees or powerful bushes.

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Interior arrangement

The floors in the pit are covered with sand and crushed stone, on top of which timber and deck boards are placed. Drainage must be sufficient to remove water from precipitation or melted snow. The walls made of earth need to be sheathed with logs (thin) or boards, and the ceiling should be finished with them. The cross members on the ceiling must be fastened especially carefully so that during a bombardment or from the action of a shock wave the soil does not destroy the roof when shaken.

The slope on top is covered with 20 centimeters of soil. An entrance is built on the side of the structure; it is better to make it a tunnel with a well made of earth and a lid. To minimize labor costs, you can bury a plastic septic tank, container or metal tank in the pit.

It is very important to make a ventilation system equipped with a pair of pipes. The longest one should be placed with an exit near the floor, and the second should be 20 cm near the ceiling. The exits are covered with deflectors, and they should rise no more than 40 centimeters. A dust filter is placed in each pipe; flax fiber or gauze is suitable for this. The bathrooms in the bomb shelter are fenced off and located near the hood so that the smell does not interfere with being inside. If you install a bio-toilet, the waste will be processed chemically.

A bunker or shelter in which people will stay for a long time, the pit must be dug 4 meters deep. The foundation is poured monolithic from 23 centimeters of concrete. The same work is performed during the construction of cottages or country houses. The concrete mixture needs to be strengthened with bundles of metal rods for reinforcement; basalt fiber rods can be used. You cannot do such work efficiently yourself, because the grant tends to sag and the foundation may become covered with cracks.

The area of ​​the bomb shelter is determined based on the total area of ​​the residential sectors of 12 square meters, but a toilet, shower and technical sector are equipped separately. One room can be made into a warehouse for food and things. You can also store drinking water in your food pantry. The walls must be 2.2 meters and at least 0.25 meters thick. The connection to the base must be monolithic, without cracks or seams. The optimal material would be concrete.

The ceiling is made of slabs filled with a cap and a layer of soil. Channels can be used to strengthen the floors; the main exit is arranged like a pipe in a trench. It is installed on slopes, making the shelter more protected. The exit can serve as ventilation, especially if it is reinforced with a half-meter corrugated pipe. A special booth is made on the surface into which the end of the corrugated sleeve is inserted.

Bunker house project

Much attention is paid to the entrance - it is hidden from prying eyes and has a hermetically sealed closure. Water and electricity are supplied to the building, and wastewater is discharged. It is necessary to prepare in advance a supply of medicines and food, water and other necessary things, without which the owner will feel uncomfortable.

An air-raid shelter is built according to a person’s individual plans, but there are also ready-made drawings in which you can make changes and add rooms. Experts recommend studying additional information and reading literature on arranging shelters in order to, if necessary, equip a library or recreation area, gym and other sections inside.

At the height of the Cold War during the nuclear arms race, the topic of building bomb shelters was very relevant. Nowadays, passions have subsided, but the desire to build a bunker is still relevant. Your personal shelter will help save lives and wait out the consequences of adverse disasters. Of particular danger at the moment are man-made accidents and natural disasters, which are becoming more and more frequent. Before you start building a shelter, you should decide its purpose and the period for which it will become your second home.

Types of bunkers and bomb shelters

There are several conditions for bunkers:
— the bunker must protect people from adverse factors
- must be located in an area that will not be flooded
— the bunker must have several entrances and exits
- an air purification system is required
— the bunker must provide sanitary and hygienic conditions for the inhabitants

Bunkers are classified according to several properties:
- according to protective properties
- by location, built-in or free-standing
- according to the filter and ventilation system
- according to construction time
- by time spent inside the shelter

A bunker for a short stay can be built quite easily and quickly. Compared to a shelter for a long stay, the savings in effort and materials are significantly reduced. The bottom can be lined with natural materials, stones and boards. To ensure hygienic conditions, you can use an inexpensive, impact-resistant plastic septic tank.
You can also save on heating costs, because the shelter does not provide for a long stay. You can use a natural ventilation system.

Preparing to build a bunker

Building a shelter is quite an expensive undertaking. But if you have a free plot of land and enough time, you can build a bunker with your own hands, which will save you a lot of money. But you shouldn’t skimp on the quality of building materials, because your life may depend on it. When starting construction, draw up an estimate; this will help you find out the costs and decide on controversial areas.

Make a plan for the shelter and choose the location where it will be located. Pay special attention to the following factors:
— It is very important to choose the right location for the shelter. Make sure that nothing can block the exit from the shelter.
— If you are building a free-standing shelter, make sure it is as close to the house as possible for easy access.
- Be sure to make sure that your shelter will not be flooded. It is necessary to find out the groundwater level. The depth of the bunker should be half a meter above the groundwater level.
— Decide on the number of people who will be in the bunker and choose the right area of ​​the room.
- Under no circumstances build a shelter near gas and water supply lines.

Taking into account the above factors, you can build a reliable bunker.

Long-term shelter

A bunker for long-term stays is usually built underground. In this case, the most expensive part is the concrete box. To build it, it is better to trust professionals; all other work can be done yourself. The box will require a huge amount of concrete. For better strength, use reinforcement. Reinforce the bottom with crushed stone or sand.

Stages of building a shelter with your own hands

The construction of a bunker can be divided into several stages:
— Prepare the pit. Its depth varies depending on your needs. A depth of 4 m is quite suitable. Drill several wells.
— The sewerage must be below the level of the pit.
— There must be an emergency exit in case the main one is blocked. Make a trench from the pit, lay the pipe and fill it with concrete.
— After pouring the foundation with concrete, it takes time for it to harden. After 2 weeks, you can begin building the walls. At the same time, do not forget about laying communications.
- The next step is to arrange the bunker. Ensure power supply and ventilation of the room.
— Build a roof from floor slabs. Do waterproofing. The bunker can be covered with earth.

Minimum requirements for a long stay bunker:
— for one person the area should reach 12 m2
- wall thickness at least 25 cm
— foundation thickness at least 23 cm
— wall height 2.2 m
A bunker with such parameters can help survive even a nuclear war.

Bunker Supplies

Food supplies for the bunker can vary depending on your wishes. Be sure to stock up on drinking water. Have at least 200-300 liters of water in stock. Don't forget about the power source. Buy a generator and fuel for it. Stock up on food with a long shelf life. Cereals are ideal. You can store honey. Prepare a first aid kit with medications and necessary materials.

Building a bunker is a long and expensive process, but in case of danger it can save the lives of you and your loved ones. Having drawn up a project and engaged in construction in stages, you can build a bunker with your own hands.

A well-made, durable and well-insulated shelter from the outside environment can be useful not only in the event of a nuclear war. A bunker in a suburban area will also protect against natural disasters: unexpected hurricanes, flooding, and a fire that spreads over many kilometers. It is especially important to have such a shelter in cases where evacuation is impossible.

There are two main types of shelter: short-term and long-term. The first can be replaced by a regular cellar or serve as its functions: an earthen floor and plank or log walls with the same roof are allowed. The second is a concrete bunker with the obligatory drilling of a well and the burying of a septic tank on the foundation pit before pouring the foundation.

The depth of both types depends on the groundwater level, to which there should be at least 0.5 meters, but it is advisable to have a thicker lintel underfoot to avoid dampness. You can find out how many meters to the aquifer using a well, in which the water is always kept at the level of inflow from the ground. It is also quite easy to navigate if your neighbors have wells drilled into the sand.

One of the main conditions for the arrangement is the correct choice of place for shelter, which is extremely undesirable to do under the house or in the immediate vicinity of any buildings, structures and tall plantings. The fact is that a cataclysm can cause a building, fence or tree to collapse, causing the exit to be blocked and the bunker to become a trap. It is for this reason that, even with the correct location of the shelter, it is advisable to make another exit, a spare one.

What follows are simple calculations of how much excavation work needs to be done. In order to shelter from the elements for a short period of time without cramped conditions, 3 square meters for each family member is enough. The depth of the pit is 2 meters, which gives 12 cubic meters for a bunker for 2 people. One person can dig such a hole with an ordinary shovel in 3-4 weeks. It is best to locate the shelter on the slope of a hill, so that the entrance is covered on all sides by residential and outbuildings standing at a distance, as well as garden plantings.

The floor of the pit is covered with a thick layer of sand, with crushed stone on top, on which a shield made of timber or thick deck boards is laid. Such drainage is quite sufficient to remove moisture if it suddenly appears. The earthen walls are covered with boards or thin logs, and the ceiling is laid from them. Everything must be well secured with crossbars so that it does not collapse when the ground shakes. An earthen embankment exactly 20 centimeters thick is made on top of the ramp. The entrance is made from the side, in the form of a tunnel from an earthen well with a lid. To make the task easier, you can simply bury a thick plastic septic tank, metal tank or container in the hole.

Be sure to take care of ventilation, which can be easily done from two pipes. The longer one goes down almost to floor level, and the second one is 15-20 centimeters below the ceiling. Exits covered with deflectors should rise no more than 40-50 centimeters above the ground. Dust filters made of gauze or flax fiber are inserted inside. For a toilet in a shelter, it is advisable to fence off a corner near the hood, where to place a mobile bio-toilet with chemical waste processing.

Such a structure must have a high degree of strength, therefore, in a pit that is dug to a depth of 4 meters, a powerful monolithic foundation with a thickness of 23 centimeters is poured. Those who are familiar with building private houses and cottages with their own hands can easily perform high-quality reinforcement by knitting metal or basalt fiber rods. It is better not to undertake such a task without experienced assistants, since when the soil settles, a poor-quality base slab can crack. The area of ​​the long-term bunker should be at least 12 square meters in total for residential premises; a small technical room should also be allocated for a generator and a toilet with a shower. Another room can become a warehouse for food and necessary items. The height of the walls is up to 2.2 meters, with a thickness of at least 25 centimeters; it is better to cast them from concrete, in a strong connection with the base.

The ceiling is also made of a slab, on top of which an additional cap is poured and an earthen embankment is made. For strength, it is better to strengthen the ceiling with channels. The main exit is made in the form of a vertical well with a side outlet, the spare one is a pipe laid horizontally in a trench, which should be in the middle of the slope of the hill, which will serve as additional protection for the bunker. Ventilation can be an additional solution if you lay a corrugated hose about half a meter wide to a specially equipped booth on the surface.

Video: DIY underground shelter

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The house is considered a protective fortress for every person. Within the framework of this conventional concept, many began to think about more reliable buildings. The question arises of how to build a bunker. It is located underground, nothing better can be imagined. If a person is afraid of natural disasters and simply tries to stay in a protective place, there are special projects for such a structure.

You can build it on your own site, often this is done at the dacha. There are a number of advantages to this shelter, although it does not always save. If you decide to build, you will have to take useful instructions as a basis and implement the project according to it. There are no difficulties, just prepare all the tools and materials, because the house underground has its own construction features. What exactly are the features, we will consider further.

There will be no paperwork

When thinking about how to build a bunker, many take this issue into account. Is there any paperwork required? The first advantage, according to experts, is that there is no need to prepare documentation or obtain permission for such a structure. But this is provided that everything is done on a personal plot. Although there is an exception. If there are communications of central importance under the soil, it is more difficult to make a bunker. The structure may be damaged, and this is a serious violation.

Before building a bunker, all these issues should be clarified. This is the first step towards constructing protective housing. It will not be possible to do it alone, so an assistant must be present, or better yet more than one. Only after this the main work begins. It is important to take into account the proximity of groundwater during construction.

Proximity of groundwater

Before building a bunker, you will have to understand at what level the groundwater is. If you ignore this, you will end up with not a living space, but a large swimming pool. To do this, it is important to know at what depth the waters are. But can such procedures be performed independently? According to experts, the process is not so complicated: attention is directed to the nearest wells and any bodies of water. The difference between the ground and water levels will become the principle of occurrence of ground flows. It is not difficult to make accurate calculations; it is important to take your time at this stage. The instructions for performing the work are elementary - everyone who creates their own in-depth home must come to this goal with certain knowledge.

Opinion of experienced architects

Another assistant is deep-water wells. In the process of their creation, it becomes more clear at what level the ground flows occur.

The house underground should be formed above the streams, the minimum distance is 50 centimeters. The bigger, the better. Here is the calculation: if the groundwater is at a level of 5 meters, then the foundation pit for a new building is made at 4.5 meters. Although when groundwater lies above 4 meters, it will not be possible to create a full-fledged house underground. Because attention is paid to comfort, protection, ease of existence for a long time. Reliability is not the last thing, so every little detail will have to be calculated.

How to choose a place?

Many people think about how to choose a base and calculate the depth of the bunker. Sometimes ideas arise to build a shelter under the house, in the basement. Architects believe that this is a bad idea and should not be implemented. And all because disasters occur - hurricanes, winds, flooding. The main structure will collapse, and the entrance to the shelter underground will be showered with fragments. We'll have to look for something more suitable. If the size of the plot allows, construction begins.

Although such a structure is allowed if there is an additional entrance to the bunker, at a distance of up to 10 meters from the house. Communication is essential for a fulfilling life. If they are autonomous, this is the best solution. Communications should not be connected to the house; in the event of a collapse, there will be no electricity supply to the bunker. This is emphasized by all architects and specialists in the construction of residential premises.

In addition, you will have to hide the entrance area. It is located in the place of outbuildings on the site. Often the construction of a bunker with your own hands is carried out from the entrance. Let him be in the garden among the trees and bushes. It will not be visible to anyone - only the owners will know how to get into their underground house.

What area?

An important point in every home is to check the dimensions. The basis is that people will stay in it for a short period of time. During a natural disaster, a hurricane, the following calculation of the area is made - 4 m2 per resident. In these conditions, it will be comfortable to wait out unfavorable conditions on the surface of the earth.

If there are three people in a family, then it turns out to be 12 m2, it is not difficult to implement such a project. The calculation is carried out by multiplication. If the area around the house is large, then the area increases, but not to the detriment of comfort. Bunkers are built for temporary and long-term stays. The choice of some parameters depends on this.

Short period

Architects believe that in order to stay inside the shelter for a short period of time, a septic tank made of durable material may well be suitable. What is being done:

• Purchase a durable container.
• It is buried in the ground at a certain distance.
• The size is calculated based on arrivals.

You can wait out hurricanes and tornadoes in it, and it also does not require additional care for many years. There is no need to invest in this building, install ventilation and heating. To exhaust the air, two natural ventilation pipes going to the surface are enough. There is no need to supplement the structure with special cleaning devices.

You will need to install a standard filter for cleaning. Sometimes it is done with your own hands. You buy gauze and glass wool - they are fixed to the pipes. Electricity is connected to the main system. It is worth making batteries so that there is a supply for a long period.

Heating

This is an open question. Because the ground does not freeze more than one and a half meters. Maximum heat is not required for temporary stays. Experts advise having a reserve:

• Warm things.
• Blankets.
• Blankets.
• Thermal underwear.

The price of such a shelter is around 400 thousand rubles. The required volume of the septic tank is 19 m3; preparing the pit will not take long, and everyone can handle it quickly. It’s easy to hire workers for about 30 thousand rubles.

For a long stay inside

Before building a long-term underground bunker, it is worth considering each room. Its total area is no less than 15 m2. A separate room is provided for the location of generators and other necessary components.

For such a structure, drainage is made under the foundation. It must be at least 25 centimeters, and the wall - 27. To prevent the soil from creeping, it is strengthened using accessible, inexpensive material. The bottom of the pit is leveled before construction begins. After the foundation dries, the walls begin to be erected after 30 days. For reliability, the reinforcement should be fixed every three rows. The size of the drainage under the foundation is created arbitrary.

The roof must be reliable. Durable metal is used. We must not forget about heat and waterproofing. A ladder for descent and a tightly closing door are installed. In order not to call such a shelter a trap, an emergency exit is made. Before you begin interior decoration, it is worth creating durable, high-quality waterproofing for the walls. There are many materials for this. Next, a partition is made between the main housing and the engine room. The cost will be around 150 thousand if you do it yourself.

To stay in such a protective shelter for several days, it is worth considering:

• Autonomous electricity. A generator running on diesel or gasoline is suitable. For fuel storage, two-tier installations are made.
• Ventilation with air filtration.
• Conditioning. Thanks to this, air is supplied with purification; the installation cost is high.

Reserves

If your stay involves several days, then you cannot do without supplies. One of the important components is water (at least 300 liters). The number of people matters. It is important to have canned food, cereals, and other products that are packaged and have a long shelf life.

You can't do without a first aid kit. It includes:

• Bandage, adhesive plaster.
• Cotton wool.
• Thermometer, tonometer.
• Scissors, tourniquet.
• Masks, heating pad.

A set of tablets is inserted individually. Painkillers and antipyretics are a must. If you have chronic health problems, you need to take more auxiliary medications. Since nutrition will deviate from the norm, digestive tablets are required.

What else is taken into account?

In addition to food and a first aid kit, it is necessary to create conditions for comfortable rest and sleep. Clothing is changeable, but the main thing is that you can go out into the light. If chemical exposure is implied, then you cannot do without personal protective equipment - gas masks, protective clothing, a flashlight. The last item on the list of important things is quite useful for internal moving in order to save electricity.

Conclusion

To fully be in the bunker, you need to individually create conditions for yourself. Each person gets used to his own - food, warmth, general atmosphere. Today, such buildings are in great demand. It’s not difficult to build them, even without experience. But if you do everything alone, this process will drag on for a long time.

Here is a design for a bunker for 4-8 people. Well, approximate data on the equipment.
To protect against the action of a shock wave, durable metal protective and hermetic doors are installed at the entrances. The entrance structure is designed for a load exceeding 1.5-2 times the standard for floors. This is not accidental, since the entrances are the most vulnerable place in a protective structure: a shock wave penetrating through stairwells, corridors and other routes due to repeated reflection and compaction can sharply increase excess pressure. The life of those being sheltered depends on their ability to withstand external influences.
At the entrance to the shelter, expansion chambers should be provided to reduce the impact of the blast wave on the protective-sealed doors. The entrance to the expansion chamber from the premises within the sealing loop must be equipped with two hermetic shutters - closed under the influence of a shock wave. The width of the vestibule-gateway, the width and length of the vestibule and vestibule for swing doors should be 0.6 m greater than the width of the door leaf. Structural and planning solutions for entrances, elevated and built into the first floors of shelters, must provide the necessary protection from penetrating radiation and exclude the possibility of direct radiation entering the protected premises. The simplest method is to provide 90° turns or screens at the entrances opposite the doorways with overlaps between the screens and shelters. Protective thicknesses of screens and ceilings are taken based on radiation exposure.
For shelters, a device should be provided at one of the entrances of the airlock vestibule. A single-chamber airlock is installed for shelters. In the outer and inner walls of the airlock vestibule, protective and hermetic doors should be provided that correspond to the calculated impacts and protection class of the shelter. Security-hermetic doors must open outward during the evacuation of those being sheltered.
All entrances to shelters, except those equipped with airlock vestibules, must be equipped with vestibules. Doors in vestibules should be provided: in the outer wall - protective-hermetic, corresponding to the calculated impacts, shelter protection class and type of entrance, in the inner wall - hermetic. The doors must open as the sheltered persons are being evacuated.
Entrances to built-in shelters should be located closer to the corners of buildings and in walls located parallel to the direction of prevailing winds (in the direction of winter winds).
An emergency exit tunnel combined with the entrance to the shelter may be provided to accommodate a single-chamber airlock vestibule. In free-standing shelters, it is allowed to design one of the entrances, located outside the area of ​​possible rubble, as an emergency exit. Emergency exits should be located, as a rule, above the groundwater level. The excess of the groundwater level relative to the floor of the emergency exit is allowed to be no more than 0.2 m, and in an emergency exit combined with the entrance - no more than 1.0 m.
In conditions of high groundwater levels, it is possible to design an emergency exit through the coating in the form of a protected shaft without an approach tunnel. When combining the mine emergency exit with the entrance, a staircase descent should be provided. The exit from the shelter to the tunnel must be equipped with protective-hermetic and hermetic shutters, installed respectively on the outer and inner sides of the wall. Removal of emergency exit depending on the height and type of buildings is taken according to table. 4 SNiP II-11-77
The dimensions of openings and passages to the premises must meet the requirements of SNiP II-11-77 and other regulatory documents. The number of entrances should be at least two, while the second entrance should be an emergency (evacuation) exit in the form of a tunnel with an internal size of at least 1.2x2 m and a doorway measuring 0.8x1.8 m.
Entrances and emergency exits must be protected from precipitation and surface water. Structures protecting entrances must be made of lightweight, non-combustible materials.
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Let's look a little at the technical content of life support systems.

For shelter:

1. Inputs and outputs:
DZG I-IV - 1 pc.
DG - 1 pc. (with DES -3 pcs.)
LZG I-IV - 1 pc.
LG - 1 pc.
UZS 8/25 - 2 pcs. (used if the door or hatch does not correspond to the class)

2. Protection of engineering heads:
MZS - 2 pcs. (with DES -3 pcs.)

3. Filtration:
FVK 1/2 - 1 set.

4. Power units:
DES - 1 pc. (power depends on the number of consumers)

1. Inputs and outputs:
DG/SU - 2-4 pcs.
2. Filtration:
Special filter-ventilation equipment includes:
filter-ventilation unit;
air intake and protective device;
means of sealing entrances and exits, consisting of hermetic doors and sealing material for partitions and curtains.

Air purification in shelters from chemical agents, RP and BS is carried out using absorbent filters of filter-ventilation units, which are supplied to the troops by the NBC protection service, and installed by the units of the engineering troops equipping the shelters. In addition to absorbent filters, other protective devices of the units purify the air from large particles of ordinary or radioactive dust.

The main parts of the FVA 50/25 and FVA 100/50 filter and ventilation units are:
filter-absorber FP-50/25 or FPU-200, which serves to purify the air supplied to shelters from OM, BA and RV;
electric manual fan MGV or VAP-1, which is designed for intake and movement of outside air through a ventilation protective device, air duct and absorber filter, supplying purified air into the structure and creating pressurization in it;
ventilation protective device VZU-50 or VZU-100, which serves to protect against the penetration of excess pressure into a structure at the shock wave front through an air intake device, as well as to clean the air entering the structure from large particles of radioactive or other dust. It protects the air intake device from atmospheric precipitation entering it;
air intake device (air duct), which is used to supply outside air to the absorber filter;
set of mounting parts and tools.

In addition, the filter-ventilation unit kit includes sealing and waterproofing means: lightweight sliding hermetic doors, waterproof paper and rubberized fabric panels.

The FVA 100/50 unit also includes an air flow indicator URV-2.

A sheet of rubberized fabric is used to make a curtain that separates the covered part of the entrance from the outside atmosphere in front of the protective hermetic door to form a second vestibule in buildings that have one vestibule.

The procedure for installing filter-ventilation units, the sequence of checking the correct installation and serviceability of the units:
when installing ventilation protective devices, the cover of VZU-100 or VZU-50 should not protrude above the level of the shelter cover;
a drainage ditch is torn off from the pit with the VSU;
The nipple rings of the filter-absorbers must be turned counterclockwise and against the stop to ensure the tightness of the connections of the component parts of the unit;
free space is provided for rotating the fan handle;
the air flow indicator URV-2 is installed horizontally so that the arrow coincides with the scale zero;
to ground the fan electric motor, one end of the grounding wire is clamped with a bolt securing the electric motor to the fan, and the other end, if the unit is mounted in a metal structure, is connected to the frame of the structure, in a structure made of non-metallic elements - to a metal rod or pin driven into the ground between the frame elements ;
panels of hermetic doors must move freely along the segments, providing the ability to open (close);
after closing there should be no gap between them;
Before entering a structure with one vestibule, a curtain will be installed.

Units FVA-100/50 and FVA-50/25 must supply the building with 100 and 50 m3/h of purified outdoor air, respectively.

The protective properties of the aggregates are tested using chloropicrin.

To do this, a rag moistened with 5 - 7 ml of chloropicrin is brought to the air intake device of a working filter-ventilation unit. The absence of the irritating odor of chloropicrin in the inhabited area, determined organoleptically by the personnel located inside the object, indicates the reliable protective properties of the unit.

The tightness of the structure is checked by measuring the deviation value of the valve flaps for air flow in the upper segments of the hermetic doors (with the protective hermetic door or hatch open). At the nominal air supply of the units, the valve flaps should deviate from their bodies by a distance of 1 -1.5 cm. For smaller deviations of the valve flaps, measures should be taken to increase the tightness of the structure.

The procedure for starting filter-ventilation units for operation from an electric drive:
insert the plug of the electric motor cable into the socket;
smoothly, without jerking, turn the fan manual drive handle at least three to four turns;
press the electric motor start relay button for no more than 3 s. Pressing the start relay button for a longer time may result in burnout of the motor winding.

3. Power units:
UPS - 1 set. (provision for at least 2 days)
1. Good explosion-proof doors are not cheap, domestic ones cost about 100 thousand rubles, but passing a blast wave through a shelter is suicidal. It will knock out all internal non-sealed doors, destroying both people and equipment. The best option in the case of a power supply is to simply concrete the entrance; in any case, after exposure to a shock wave it will be impossible to use it. You can, of course, reproduce the design of the subway passage, but this is an additional unmasking - 2 exits.

2. San. the node is located this way due to the position of the sewer chamber, the drain comes from the sanitary unit, kitchen, vestibule and steam generator. This is a communication issue. It is worth considering the issue of using diesel exhaust gases and wastewater for heating and water heating (possibly a heat pump, but the price tag is high).

3.The FVU must be located near the emergency exit, and there must be easy access to the emergency exit from living quarters. Regarding the used air, this is not a very good idea, read the book “Steel Coffins” (author Herbert Werner), it describes well what happened on board when the snorkel was clogged - the diesel engines instantly burned all the oxygen. This can also happen in a shelter when ventilation fails.

4. A single-tier system is more promising due to the ability to disguise the construction of a bunker, for example, as the construction of a swimming pool. Drainage as such is not needed, and at a depth of 7 meters it is useless. External waterproofing - pasted in 2-4 layers, hydrophobic concrete M400 (used for the construction of swimming pools), internal waterproofing painted in 2 layers on metal (if using containers). Next is 50-100 mm of insulation, vapor barrier and interior finishing.