Chimney and ventilation in one shaft. How to make a passage for ventilation and a chimney through Combining a chimney with ventilation

18.10.2019 Accessories

Today our story will be devoted to the elements heating system, with which many tragic incidents are associated, and first of all we are talking about chimneys. If you have a bathhouse, cottage or residential building where an autonomous boiler is used, then you can potentially suffer from poor draft, which does not remove combustion products outside.

The accumulation of CO in the body can lead to “silent” death. If you want to know how to protect yourself and your loved ones, read the article to the end.

What can await you due to carelessness?

Alas, we so rarely pay attention to clogged chimneys and ventilation ducts that we could find ourselves in “another world” several times already. This happens because of our carelessness, since we begin to at least do something when, due to the smoke in the room, we cannot see the picture on the TV.

However, this is not so bad, the main danger is invisible and not felt by our receptors - this is carbon monoxide. It gradually begins to displace oxygen from below until it is completely squeezed out of the room.

Advice: the chimney and ventilation are not installed in the same pipe according to SNiP.

After this, there is very little time left to save a person who will not even understand what is happening to him. It would seem that what could be simpler than cleaning the chimney and ventilation duct in a timely manner, and then such a tragedy would never have happened.

Advice: set a time for yourself and regularly carry out preventive maintenance of ventilation and chimneys, doing the procedure yourself or hiring specialists.

Malfunctions

Below we will consider the most common causes of malfunctions of chimneys and ventilation ducts. Although there are many more of them, almost all of them are associated with the usual irresponsibility of the owners:

Project flaw Often work supply and exhaust ventilation the apartment leaves much to be desired due to shortcomings in the system design. At the same time, there are frequent cases when during construction workers use smoke and ventilation ducts as a kind of garbage chute. If clogged, they will not be able to perform their tasks to their full potential.
Blockage It happens that the system becomes clogged due to foreign objects:
  • dust;
  • cobwebs;
  • istiev;
  • birds accidentally falling into the pipe.
Sediments Natural deposits on the walls of chimneys and ventilation ducts in the form of soot, dust and grease. The first ones need to be cleared of soot immediately after such signs appear.
Humidity A blockage can appear very quickly after burning poorly dried firewood and household waste, as well as with a large amount of tar. In such cases, cleaning the ventilation and smoke exhaust systems is mandatory.
Other reasons The instructions also say that traction may weaken due to:
  • the appearance of malfunctions in the ventilation ducts or chimneys themselves; corrosion;
  • cracks;
  • collapses;
  • house shrinkage;
  • aging of building materials.

Advice: if there is no draft immediately after connecting the fireplace or stove, you should file a claim with the builders who installed it.

The cause of most poisonings during a fire from combustion derivatives is usually poor ventilation and smoke removal. Therefore, rules and requirements have been developed that must be complied with when operating these systems.

Let's find out about them:

  1. The ducts of solid fuel fireplaces and stoves should be checked and cleaned before and after use. heating season. When the furnace operates continuously, inspection should be carried out once every three months. To remove smoke, it is necessary to check every quarter, as well as in summer and winter.

  1. If serious defects requiring repair are identified during the inspection, it is prohibited to use heating and gas appliances until the defect is completely eliminated.
  1. Installation and repairs must be carried out by organizations that have the appropriate license, since their specialists usually have all the necessary skills for this. They should begin work only after drawing up a ventilation and chimney inspection report.

Advice: these rules apply to both owners of private houses and institutions responsible for the maintenance and upkeep of apartments and ventilation systems in them.

In addition to the above generally binding rules, we recommend that you pay attention to the following:

  • use completely dried firewood in stoves and fireplaces, which has a low percentage of resin content;
  • It is prohibited to burn household waste in stoves and fireplaces, especially any plastic - bags or bottles;
  • periodically clean the firebox and vent from ash, and roof hoods from dust and grease;
  • purchase a roof fan that will help improve draft in a duct or pipe; its price depends on the power. This is especially necessary for those whose chimneys have a small internal cross-section;
  • Install a protective cap with a mesh on the chimney with your own hands, which will prevent debris from entering the ventilation duct. In winter, regularly check this part of the system to clear it of blockages and frost in a timely manner.

Prevention and repair

For inspection of smoke and ventilation ducts You can use two methods - classic and modern. In the first case, you will need a “ruff” on a long rope and a weight. The second uses a lot of methods, including a video camera with spotlights.

The developed devices allow a short time and without special effort assess fairly accurately the draft in the ventilation and chimney. Based on the results of the inspection, a canal inspection report is drawn up, drawn up in the form of a technical report of the established form. Then a conclusion is issued, which contains recommendations for design and repair work.

The check determines:

  • materials that were used to make the channels, as well as their cross-section;
  • length of channels, sections of connections, bends and narrowings, marks of cracks and congestions found in the system;

  • isolation and density of channels;
  • the presence of traction, horizontal sections, zones with or without wind support;
  • cleaning hatches, fire cuttings and heads;
  • tightness of pipes;
  • condition of ventilation ducts, exhaust shafts, as well as air intake grilles.

Conclusion

Draft in the chimney and proper ventilation premises allow you to create comfortable and safe conditions accommodation. We recommend that you do not ignore the proposed recommendations and try to follow them. Ultimately, your health and the health of those who live with you will depend on this.

The video in this article will help you find additional information on this topic.

Image chimneys, pipes, channels and ventilation shafts on plans, according to GOST 21.201–2011, is carried out using special graphic images. At the same time, those conventional images that are given in the table are not used when designing objects such as boiler house pipes and factory chimneys.

Ventilation of buildings

The purpose of ventilation is to create conditions for the penetration of outside air into premises, their ventilation, as well as the removal of polluted air.

The quality of the air that people breathe indoors largely depends on how effectively ventilation operates. Air exchange significantly affects the well-being and health of people living in apartments.

The design of modern ventilation systems is very diverse. In each individual case it depends on factors such as the nature technological process, the purpose of a particular room, the type of harmful emissions, etc. All ventilation systems can be sorted according to the following criteria:

  • Purpose
  • Service zone
  • Design
  • A method of creating pressure at which air moves

In addition, ventilation systems are divided into categories and according to such criteria as the method of air movement. Depending on it, ventilation is:

  • Naturally organized
  • Natural disorganized
  • Artificial (mechanical)

Unorganized natural ventilation is called one in which air exchange in rooms occurs due to the difference in pressure of internal and external air, as well as due to the fact that vents, transoms and doors open, and enclosing structures do not fit tightly together.

If air exchange occurs under the condition of a difference in pressure between the external and internal air, the action of the wind, however, not spontaneously, but through a specially equipped transom that can be adjusted, then such ventilation is called natural organized. It is also often called aeration.

Artificial (mechanical) ventilation is a method of supplying or removing air into a room that uses fans. Experts with knowledge of the matter claim that it is more advanced than natural ventilation, since the air can be pre-conditioned in terms of humidity, temperature and cleanliness before supply.

Features of chimneys

The combustion of artificial or natural gas inevitably leads to the formation of combustion products, which consist of substances such as nitrogen, water vapor and carbon dioxide. All of them remain after oxygen has reacted with those components that are flammable. In cases where combustion occurs in conditions of excess air, combustion products will be formed, in which the content of oxygen will be increased, which turns out to be “excess”. It should be noted that when gas is burned, a fairly large amount of combustion products is formed.

The gas industry is being developed in accordance with certain rules safety regulations, according to which it is necessary to ensure the removal of combustion products from a stove, unit or other device. To do this, it is necessary to use separate chimneys located, as a rule, in the internal walls of buildings. To ensure complete and reliable removal of gas combustion products through the chimney, it must be properly constructed and operated. If this condition is violated, then some of the combustion products will inevitably enter the premises, resulting in a serious danger of poisoning people.

The density of gas combustion products whose temperature exceeds +150 °C is significantly lower than that of atmospheric air. It is thanks to this that they have a lifting force that carries them up the chimney (vertical channel) and they are removed from the room to the outside. According to the laws of physics, the greater the difference that exists between the temperature of the outside air and the temperature of gas combustion products, the higher the speed at which they leave the room through the chimney. It is this value that is one of the particularly important characteristics of combustion product removal systems, characterizing their performance.

One more important parameter is the cross-sectional area. When it increases or decreases, the power of the chimney increases or decreases.

Gas appliances burn different quantities gas, and therefore the combustion products have different temperatures, and their quantity is different. Accordingly, the speed at which they are discharged through the chimney is also different. Therefore, for gas appliances various types it is necessary to construct chimneys with different cross-sectional areas. If it turns out to be underestimated, then the chimney will simply not be able to pass all the combustion products through itself and, as professionals put it, will “suffocate.” As for the cross-sectional shape of chimneys, it can be round or rectangular.

The way gases are cooled as they are discharged into the flow also has a significant impact on the functioning of chimneys. Often these structures are made attached and placed outside the external walls of the building. It also happens that during construction the thickness of the walls is not maintained or there is no insulation. In such cases, in winter, the gas combustion products flowing through the chimney will quickly cool, the temperature difference between the atmospheric air and them will begin to decrease, and therefore the power of the chimney will inevitably drop.

This effect is most severe on particularly cold days. It happens that due to the rapid cooling of exhaust combustion products, the water vapor contained in them condenses and deposits on the walls of the chimneys. Moisture droplets freeze and an ice blockage occurs. The exhaust gases can also cool excessively due to the entry of outside air into the chimney. The reason for this is usually a leak in the structure or excessive suction through the draft breaker of the gas appliance.

Cracks (leaks) and even blockage of the chimney are quite common occurrences. It occurs most often because the walls of the structure gradually collapse under the influence of combustion products, especially when they are made of fragile materials. According to current standards and regulations, it is strictly prohibited to use slag concrete and sand-lime brick, as well as other porous and loose materials. The roughness of the walls, protrusions, narrowings, bends and recesses, which are allowed during the careless construction of these structures, provide serious resistance to the flow of exhaust gases.

If the cross-section of the chimney is too high and it has an elongated rectangular shape, then turbulence of the exhaust gas flows occurs. Because of this, the resistance to their abduction increases significantly. Experts say that each chimney can be assessed by such an indicator as the amount of vacuum that is created during the flow of exhaust gases at its very beginning. This indicator is called chimney draft.

Is it possible to combine a fireplace chimney and kitchen ventilation, and if so, how?

1. The need to arrange passage nodes

2. Installation of a passage unit for the chimney

3. Options for constructing roof penetrations

4. Marking of the roof passage assembly

5. Installation of the roof passage unit

The ventilation system, as you know, is an integral part of almost any building, be it residential, industrial or commercial buildings.

Thanks to good ventilation, the air in the premises of the building will be able to circulate in a normal rhythm, which is, of course, very important factor. But in order to install a good ventilation system, it is necessary to equip a passage through the roof.

There are a lot of options for its arrangement, since the installation method depends, first of all, on the type of roofing device.

Each roof has its own individual design features, therefore, the roofing passage unit has many construction schemes in accordance with the type of roof.

The need to arrange passage nodes

The main purpose of the roof passage elements is to remove contaminated and exhaust air.

The design of such elements is carried out in accordance with GOST 15150, where the distances from the passage unit to the edge of the slab, as well as the diameters of the holes that are located in the floor slabs, are precisely determined.

It is possible to equip passage units not only for roof ventilation, but also for chimney systems in those buildings that are equipped with fireplace or stove heating. This method of installation is sometimes called roof penetration.

Based on the type of roof structure and the ventilation intended for it, the air duct passage through the roof can have the following forms:

  • square;
  • round;
  • oval;
  • rectangular, etc.

In appearance, the nodes resemble holes made in the ceilings.

Metal pipes are passed into these holes, which are mounted on the roof or on reinforced concrete glasses. The thickness of the material used should not be less than 1 millimeter. Manufacturers produce ventilation units of various sizes, this applies to both their length and thickness.

The type of ventilation system that serves as the connection point for the pipe can be either natural or forced.

Before you finally make a decision in favor of one type or another, you should focus on factors that can influence your choice, such as:

  • humidity indicators;
  • gas pollution coefficient;
  • the lowest and highest air temperature inside the structure;
  • dust factor, etc.

The roof passage element is mounted using special reinforced concrete systems by fixing them to anchor bolts, which, in turn, are installed in the glasses during their construction.

The entire installation process depends on the following criteria:

  • angle of inclination of the roof slope;
  • interval from penetration to roof ridge;
  • roofing thickness;
  • the area that the space under the roof has.

If the base of the floor is reinforced concrete, then at the location of the ventilation fungus on the roof it is necessary to use special slabs equipped with ready-made holes.

If the diameter of this hole does not coincide with the integrity of the slab, then in the area where the penetration is installed, places made of concrete in the form of a monolith are installed.

In this case, the passage through the roof with light frame made of metal will be the same, but the glasses must be made of metal. A large building, which carries the functions of residential, industrial or civil purposes, requires calculation of the location of roof passages at the design stage.

Installation of ventilation, detailed in the video:

Installation of a chimney passage unit

Most often, the passage unit for the chimney is installed at the shortest distance from the roof ridge. With this installation option, the main part of the chimney pipe should be located under the base of the roof, which will protect the structure from condensation.

However, there is another installation option, in which the pipes are installed through the roof ridge.

Installing a chimney on a roof slope is fraught with the formation of a pocket of snow in the upper part of the pipe, which can cause a leak. Therefore, it is very important to use seals for roof passages, as well as to design a rafter system, which can entail certain difficulties.

However, the passage of the chimney through the roof has its advantages, in particular - ease of installation and the absence of the risk of leaks.

It is also impossible to bypass fire safety measures when arranging passage points chimney through the wood covering, as well as the roof, which should be protected from potential fire due to overheating of the pipe.

The passage unit should not be installed in the valley area, since there is a possibility of poor sealing of the roof joints and pipe apron. In addition, this area is particularly susceptible to the formation of ice and snow pockets.

Pitched roof requires a device wooden system rafters, which, as it becomes clear, has the maximum degree of combustion. That is why it is necessary to equip all the gaps between the pipe and wooden elements in accordance with building codes and regulations (SNiP). To prevent the heated pipe from coming into contact with flammable materials, a special design should be used.

Typically, for this, a rectangular-shaped pass-through unit is mounted in the required location. In appearance, it resembles a box filled with glass wool or any other material that is non-flammable.

Options for installing roof penetrations

Today, manufacturers produce passage units of various types:

  • equipped with a valve;
  • without valves;
  • equipped with insulation;
  • without insulation;
  • equipped with technology that controls the opening and closing of valves.

Units that have manual control in their design are usually used where there is no need to regularly use multiple ventilation modes.

The manual control unit includes:

  • tailor's cloth;
  • counterweight;
  • cable;
  • management sector.

A special mechanism helps control the valve, which regulates the position of the valve through two main commands - “open” and “closed”.

To create penetrations for the roof, manufacturers use a black sheet of metal, the thickness of which does not exceed 2 millimeters, as well as a sheet of stainless steel, having a thickness of 0.5 to 0.8 millimeters.

The production of a pass-through unit can also be carried out on the basis of galvanized steel along with insulation, which is most often represented by a layer mineral wool 50 millimeters thick.

This option involves installing umbrellas or deflectors treated with zinc in the system. When installed on the fan assembly, it internal organization can be made of perforated steel and equipped with electrically conductive plastic tubes. With this installation method, the passage unit will also perform a soundproofing function.

Marking of the roof passage unit

The modern construction market is ready to provide 11 types of ventilation passage units with different sizes. However, in some cases their manufacture requires a non-standard approach.

In the marking of passage units, the main designations are the letters “UP”, as well as numbers from 1 to 10, meaning that the units do not have an element that collects condensate, as well as a valve.

A series of numbers from 2 to 10 indicates that the passage has a valve in its design that operates using manual control, but does not have a condensate ring.

The designations “UPZ-UPZ-21” indicate that the passage unit is equipped with all elements: manual control, valve, condensate ring.

Installation of a roof passage unit

The design of the ventilation passage unit includes a pipe connected to a support flange, which, in turn, must be fixed with a reinforced concrete glass with anchor bolts.

The assembly is secured to the roof using braces, which are secured with fasteners such as clamps or brackets. The system can also be based on a skirt attached to the roof, the main function of which is to protect against moisture entering the space under the roof.

Anyway, any information about correct device roof passage unit with detailed videos and photos of the entire installation process can always be found in other articles on this site. Read also: “Installation of roofing sandwich panels.”

Purpose of forced ventilation of the roof of a house
Roof ventilation elements
Pitched deflectors and air ducts for roofing
Rules for installing elements ventilation system
Natural roof ventilation

Moisture can enter the house from the outside in the form of precipitation and from the inside as condensation. Its presence in the premises leads to the spread of harmful microorganisms and mold, which will be difficult to cope with.

Prevent this and increase the lifespan of your home with warm attic A roof ventilation system will help.

Purpose of forced ventilation of the roof of a house

When arranging the roofing pie of a household with a residential attic, experts observe the principle of complete tightness, arranging the materials in layers, overlapping each other.

Thanks to the design of such a system, it is created reliable protection from moisture and heat remains indoors.

At the same time, the “pie” is an obstacle to exhaust through the roof. That’s why they make a forced ventilation system in a residential building, which is installed in accordance with the requirements specified in SNiP.

This design solves a number of problems:

  1. Releases into the atmosphere saturated with water vapor warm air, which is collected in rooms located on the lower floors.

    If there is no effective exhaust, steam begins to settle on the elements of the rafter system in the form of condensate.

  2. Does not produce excessive dampness and unpleasant smell appear inside attic room.

    The roof ventilation system creates an influx of air from the surrounding atmosphere, which helps create a favorable microclimate in the house.

  3. In hot weather, it lowers the heating temperature of the roofing surface. Proper ventilation can minimize this.
  4. Provides protection of the roof surface from ice accumulation. Due to the difference between the temperature outside and inside warm home The snow mass begins to melt.

    As a result, ice constantly forms, which is not easy to deal with.

  5. Are saved original qualities thermal insulation material. An increase in the humidity level of insulation by 5-10% due to the formation of condensation leads to an increase in its thermal conductivity by 35-50%. Even if it dries completely, this indicator does not return to its original value.
  6. In accordance with the provisions of SNiP, an attic can be called suitable for living if it has a forced ventilation system.

    In this case, the total area of ​​the ventilation vents must be at least 1/300 of the roof surface.

Roof ventilation elements

Forced ventilation operates according to the principle of convection: since warm air is lighter, its flows move upward, while making room for cool air masses with greater weight.

According to the provisions of SNiP, in order to ensure exhaust, the following elements of roof ventilation will be required:

  1. Cornice vents.

    Through them, atmospheric air penetrates under the roof with the attic. To make vents, inexpensive lumber is used, which is attached with a small gap, or special structures - soffits, which are metal or plastic panels with partially applied perforation. Due to these holes, air freely penetrates into the room.

  2. Dormer windows.

    They serve to extract and provide access to air.

    Do-it-yourself ventilation device in a house with gas appliances

    Such windows are installed if the attic space in the house is not heated and is not used for living.

  3. Ridge aerators. This ventilation element, which has perforation, is mounted along the ridge of the attic pitched roof. It serves to remove heated air from the room outside.
  4. Pitched deflectors. These devices are nothing more than pipes for ventilation. These air ducts are installed on the roof, on the slopes.

    They consist of a tube with a cross-section of 20–50 millimeters, which is laid through layers of insulating pie. The deflectors are equipped with a protective mesh and cap on top.

  5. Modular roofing material. Lay a covering of individual tiles, leaving gaps for the circulation of air masses. From the point of view of ventilation arrangement this material is more a good decision for roofs with a warm attic than sheet steel or soft bitumen shingles.

Roof ventilation elements for a heated attic and a cold attic are significantly different.

For non-residential premises two will be enough dormer windows and cornice vents.

If a residential attic is designed, then installation of a more complex system will be required, consisting of:

  • pitched deflectors;
  • cornice vents;
  • ridge aerator.

According to SNiP, the number of ventilation holes is determined taking into account the area of ​​the roofing surface at the rate of 1 - 2 pieces per 25 “squares”.

Pitched deflectors and air ducts for roofing

These devices are placed on roof slopes to remove heated air from the attic space and moisture from the layers of the roofing pie.

Deflectors consist of the following elements:

  1. Frame.

    In appearance, it resembles a bottle, which has two parts. Its lower part is placed in an insulating pie at the arrangement stage, and the upper part is installed at the end of the work.

    The diameter of the case can be 30–50 millimeters.

  2. Protective filter. It is installed inside the deflector housing. A mesh or sponge filter is required to protect the ventilation structure from debris.
  3. Umbrella or mushroom. This part is placed on the head of the housing pipe so that moisture does not penetrate into it during rain or snow.
  4. Flange. To ensure the tightness of the junction of the deflector with the roof pie, an apron made of silicone or rubber is used.

Air ducts are mounted on the roof at a distance of 50 centimeters from the ridge - this will make it easier for warm air to escape outside.

Even on roofs whose area does not exceed 25 square meters, you will need to install 2 deflectors.

Rules for installing ventilation system elements

In order for the ventilation installed on the roof of the house to function efficiently, ensuring the circulation of air masses inside the attic room, you must adhere to several simple rules:

  1. The height of the ventilation pipes above the roof of the building should be 50 centimeters.
  2. When the pipe is installed at a distance of 50-150 centimeters from the ridge, it needs to rise above it by 50 centimeters or more.
  3. If such a pipe is installed at a distance from the ridge exceeding 3 meters and is located close to the eaves, then its height must correspond to the level of the ridge.
  4. Pipe brought to flat roof, should rise above its surface by at least 50 centimeters.
  5. The ventilation pipe located near the chimney is made of a similar length.
  6. The more complex the roof configuration becomes, the more ribs, slopes and valleys it has, which means it requires a greater number of outlets to ensure effective exhaust.
  7. In regions with harsh winters, ventilation ducts must be insulated to prevent the structure from freezing at sub-zero daily temperatures.
  8. When installing pitched aerators, care should be taken Special attention tightness of joints, since moisture can penetrate through them, which over time can destroy the roof pie and its rafter system.
  9. It is necessary to select the elements of the ventilation system so that they are made by the same manufacturer, and then the products will complement each other optimally.

Natural roof ventilation

The creation of such ventilation does not require energy costs, so its arrangement is preferable.

However, in Lately roofs of complex architecture are being erected more and more often. They lack natural roof ventilation and then there is a need to create a forced system.

1. Is it really necessary to ventilate the roof?

2. Ventilation device on sloping roofs

3. How is ventilation installed?

A well-designed roof vent helps prevent unnecessary problems and will protect you from many roof damages.

IN modern world There are many different roofing materials, but we'll focus on metal sheets, which are the most common. So let's see how this is possible through a ventilation passage through a metal plate.

Do you really need roof ventilation?

Some may wonder: why would you ventilate and use additional resources if you can do it without this work?

The answer is obvious. Firstly, ventilation provides a favorable microclimate inside the roof. This will help each of its elements do their job safely without fear of destruction. In addition, the quality of insulation depends on ventilation, if you did this when installing the roof according to the height of the pipe above the ridge.

Incorrect ventilation or even its absence can cause the following problems:

  • Formation on condensation materials.

    Wooden materials, such as rafters and supports, will fail or rot prematurely. Condensation on metal and other elements will lead to hardening and subsequent and complete destruction (see the article “How to remove condensation under the roof”).

  • Moisture on the roof surface. This can already lead to ice formation and destruction of some types of roofing materials.
  • Steam condensation on the heater.

    The insulation layer will be wet and therefore lose thermal insulation properties. This means that the heater may be worse than without it.

Ventilation device on sloping roofs

For fresh air circulating under the roof, you need to install what is called under roof ventilation at the bottom of the roof. In this case, air movement will ensure the cleaning of the space under the roof.

What are the tasks ventilation pipes on the roof:

  • First of all, it is temporary control of water vapor.

    The absence of water vapor prevents condensation on some surface and will therefore lead to its destruction.

  • Setting the roof temperature. Roof ventilation roofs must maintain the same temperature throughout the roof, then there will be no ice or ice on the surface.
  • Reduce the amount of heat after the sun heats up the roof.

    The air space will not be placed in rooms under the roof, which are very overheated on sunny days, and will maintain a constant indoor air temperature.

A ventilated shed or other forced ventilation must have a vent connection to the roof. Even in any civilized house there will be sewer system, so you need an outlet for waste water so there are no unpleasant odors in the house.

With the elevator, the fan outlet pipe is connected to another wavy pipe and is equipped with an adapter ring. The hood on the exhaust pipe must not wear out to avoid frost (see also: "Chimney on chimney").

To ventilate under your roof, you need to use a deflector—a low-pressure roof fan. If necessary, the deflator can bleach your hands to help remove excess moisture.

IN modern construction Various roof ventilation elements are used. Air flow inlets are often covered metal bars. If we are talking about air outlets, they are divided into two categories: point and continuous. Point rosettes are located on certain areas of the roof and look like a sponge mushroom on the roof. Continuous exits are located along the entire length of the ridge and are painted in the color of the roof, which invisibly captivates the eye.

This is why roof vents are so popular.

Installation of ventilation pipes, professional consulting:

How does the ventilation device work?

Of course, setting up the outlet means drilling holes in the roof.

But without proper care these can turn into actual holes that can later cause roof leaks. To eliminate the possibility of roof leaks, you should purchase special metal inserts to match the color of the entire structure.

Installing roof vent hoses for metal roofs involves several important considerations:

  • There should be one drainage area for every 60 square meters.
  • The distance from the ridge to the point of the ventilation element should be less than 60 cm.
  • The complexity of the roof structure increases the number of output elements.
  • When installing the item, you must use the template that is usually included in the package.
  • Holes on metal plate must be located on the same target line.
  • Use screws to secure the rubber O-ring and then use silicone sealant.
  • The pass-through element is located at the point where the pins are connected to the sealing hinges.
  • This entire structure is attached to the roof using screws included in the package.
  • There is a sealant for the waterproofing layer in the attic.

    If roof ventilation hoses pass through a layer of insulation, this area must be additionally sealed with silicone sealants and other seals. Also read: “What kind of ventilation is needed on the roof of a house - select the elements of the system.”

conclusions

If you want to install a roof fan, you don't need to invest much effort for material purposes (more "Roof Fan and Its Varieties").

A regular roof vent hose won't save you more than 5% of the cost of your roof, but it will save you valuable time and hassle in the future use of the building.

Do you need advice on the location of the chimney?

The fragments that can occur when ventilation is installed incorrectly are very expensive to repair.

Therefore, it is important to also consider height details drain hose above the roof so you can't worry later (see "Hose Height Above Roof"). Using quality ventilation materials and compliance with all requirements for ventilation units will reduce the likelihood of problems occurring.

Remember: when installing systems in your home, you should never rescue! All work must be carried out in high quality and according to the instructions, your home can become “your fortress.”

Where to place the chimney
Recommendations for placement and decoration
Arrangement of a chimney outlet through a metal tile roof
Arranging a passage for a square or rectangular pipe
Output through the metal tile of a round pipe

When designing and constructing a private house, special care should be taken when arranging the passage of the chimney through the metal roof.

The correct installation of passage units directly affects the level of tightness and fire safety of the roof.

Where to place the chimney

The place where the chimney will exit through the metal roof needs to be calculated at the project development stage.

It is better not to carry it through the valleys, since the junction points in this case lose their tightness. It is also important to take into account the fact that the valleys bear the greatest snow load: this will inevitably affect the integrity of the connecting sections of the chimney and roof.

It is best to install a chimney duct near the ridge, because even in snowy winters a little snow accumulates there, and the threat of leaks is minimal. The height of the pipe with this arrangement is the smallest, which significantly reduces the degree of climatic influence on its surface. This is especially true during cold periods, when condensation can accumulate inside the chimney.

When implementing this placement option, certain difficulties arise: you either have to abandon the ridge beam altogether, or make a gap in it. As a result, the overall strength of the ridge structure is seriously compromised. The way out of this situation is to install additional support units under the rafters: this is not always good, because in many cases an attic floor is installed in the attic.

In this case, it is better to install the pipe in the area ridge girder. Flat roofs are equipped with chimneys 500 mm high.

If there is a ridge on the roof, then when organizing the passage of a pipe through a metal roof, the height of the chimney will depend on the distance to the ridge:

  • A distance of up to 150 cm implies the need to install the chimney to a height of at least 50 cm above the ridge.
  • When the distance to the ridge is 150-300 cm, the pipe is made flush with the ridge.
  • If this parameter exceeds 300 cm, the height of the pipe is calculated by drawing a line at an angle of 10 degrees between the ridge section and the horizon.

Arrangement of a chimney outlet through a metal tile roof

Insulated roofs usually do not have a very high fire safety, because they contain a layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation and vapor barrier.

Availability wooden sheathing also does not contribute to its increase. According to building codes, the distance between these structural elements and a pipe made of brick, ceramics or concrete must be at least 13 cm.

If the ceramic chimney does not have thermal insulation, then the distance increases to 25 cm.

The area where the chimney passes through the metal tiles and roofing pie, is characterized by increased heat loss and the appearance of condensation in the insulation.

To avoid such phenomena, it is necessary to build your own rafter structure specifically for the pipe. Mineral is used to fill the void between the chimney and the roof. basalt wool. When arranging smoke exhaust in a residential building, vapor and waterproofing is cut out in the form of an envelope, with the edges folded and fixed to the rafter structure. When using rectangular or square pipes it is necessary to make external aprons: these elements ensure good tightness of the junction of the chimney and metal tiles.

Arranging a passage for a square or rectangular pipe

To make the junction of the chimney and the roof completely airtight, use the finishing of the pipe on the roof made of metal tiles with internal and external aprons.

First, install the inner apron.

Installation of the upper and lower strips and side elements is carried out in the following order:

  • The bottom bar must be attached to the wall and a line drawn with a pencil.
  • The remaining elements are marked in the same way.
  • Next, the entire perimeter of the chimney is measured. The result obtained is used to make grooves to a depth of 15 mm.

    For these purposes, use a grinder. It is important not to allow the grooves and seams to coincide brickwork: The recesses should go along the surface of the bricks.

  • The finished grooves must be washed with water to remove dust and dried.
  • First, the strips are installed on the lower chimney wall.

    Then they move on to the sides and top. To avoid leaks, an overlap of 150 mm is made between the slats.

  • After laying the edges of the additional elements into the grooves, they need to be filled with sealant.
  • Roofing screws are used for fixing to the pipe.
  • The bottom of the apron is decorated with a “tie”, which ensures water drainage. Usually the “tie” is directed into the valley or onto the eaves overhang.
  • The edges of the roof are equipped with a side. To do this you will need a hammer and pliers.

Upon completion of the installation of the apron and the roof cutting, the metal tiles are laid around the chimney.

After this, an external apron is installed, which will perform a purely decorative function.

How to arrange high-quality ventilation in the house?

The fastening of its strips is carried out in the same way as in the case of the internal apron. In this case, the strip edges are not inserted into the grooves, but are fixed to the chimney walls.

Output through the metal tile of a round pipe

Roof penetrations with a round cross-section are equipped with roof penetrations, which allows for good sealing chimney on a metal tile roof.

Antennas, masts, ventilation ducts and electrical communications can also be routed through roof penetrations. They are used on various roofing materials. The foundation of the roof penetration is a steel sheet, hermetically connected to the cap. A special hole in the cap allows a sandwich pipe to be brought out through the metal tile.

To make penetrations, silicone or EPDM rubber is used: both of these materials comfortably tolerate temperature fluctuations from -74 to +260 degrees.

Before installing the pipe, the penetration is equipped with a hole, the diameter of which should be less than the diameter of the pipe by 20%. The process of pulling the adapter onto the pipe can be made easier by using soap solution. After joining the sealant and the roofing surface, it completely repeats the texture of the roofing material. The area under the flange is coated with roofing sealant. Roofing screws are used as fasteners (installation pitch - 35 mm).

In most cases, it is recommended to use a sandwich pipe instead of a brick chimney.

It consists of two liners with different diameters, separated by a layer of thermal insulation (usually basalt wool). Due to its good performance, ease of installation and long term The service life of a chimney made from a sandwich pipe is much superior to brick or concrete elements. Such a smoke exhaust duct does not overheat and does not accumulate condensate.

When independently arranging a chimney and cutting a pipe on a metal roof, you must strictly observe all existing building codes and rules: these can be found in the relevant documentation.

It is best to carry out such work during the construction of the house. However, sometimes this has to be done on an already constructed building.

This usually happens in the following cases:

  1. The roof is undergoing major repairs.
  2. The truss structure is being replaced.
  3. A home heating system is being installed or replaced.

If you do not have confidence in your abilities, it is better to invite professional roofers to carry out the work.

Maybe.

And it might make sense if you think about how the system works...

First, the temperature near the thermostat exceeds set temperature, which causes the thermostat to blow cold air.

Why does the ventilation blow into the apartment?

The air conditioning unit turns on and starts blowing cool air. Once the temperature near the thermostat reaches the set value, the thermostat tells the A/C unit to shut down.

The air conditioning unit turns off and stops blowing cold air.

While the A/C unit was blowing, the 30 year old vent caps were restricting the air flow from the ducts. Therefore, while the thermostat was at the proper temperature, not enough cool air was delivered to other areas of the house.

This way, the area near the thermostat may actually reach the proper temperature sooner since that area has unrestricted air flow and receives most of the cold air.

When you removed the vent covers, you allowed more cold air to enter other areas (away from the thermostat). Therefore, the area close to the thermostat took longer to reach the desired temperature.

Now, since most of the cold air was sent to other areas (away from the thermostat), those areas cooled more than the area near the thermostat.

In a completely balanced system, all areas would receive the same temperature at the same time.

Alas, we do not live in a perfect world. This way you get a hot office and comfortable temperature in the rest of the house, or a frozen office and a comfortable temperature in the rest of the house.

To fix the problem, you can try to balance the system yourself, or you can call an HVAC company to balance it for you (which will likely involve installing shock absorbers and new vent covers).

Moral of the lesson: keep the thermostat in an area where the vents aren't blowing directly onto it and in an area with a lot of air volume.

If the thermostat is cooling or heating to the volume of conditioned air, things may not be satisfactory. The rest is then kept in balanced airflow so peripheral rooms don't get too hot or cold. Additionally, without proper air circulation, thermostats measure how deep the cold air is underneath alternating current, and how low the heat bubble heats up.

Good mixing is necessary, so the entire volume is involved.

Construction of a heating system chimney is a very responsible matter, requiring compliance with all fire safety and gas safety. But it's completely doable with my own hands, if you think everything through well and follow the order of work in accordance with the project.

The chimney in the house is exposed high temperatures, so it is important to choose the right material

Requirements for modern chimneys

The chimney duct of a heating boiler is subject to stress from high smoke temperatures, possible combustion of soot inside, and exposure to combustion products. The safety of the residents of the house depends on its resistance to such loads, since it removes combustion products that are toxic to people.

For this reason, a number of requirements are imposed on their device. They should be:

  • Heat resistant
  • Fireproof
  • Corrosion resistant
  • Sealed
  • Durable
  • Condensation resistant
  • Have good traction regardless of the outside temperature
  • Resistant to acids

Choosing a suitable design

  1. What fuel does the stove use? For example, the thickness of the chimney walls for solid fuel boiler select twice as much as for a liquid fuel or gas boiler.
  2. What material is the house made of? Possibility of fire wooden house higher than other materials. Therefore, chimney insulation when used solid fuel V wooden house should be 5-10 cm. Liquid and gaseous fuels have a lower degree of heating; an insulation layer of 2.5 cm is sufficient.
  3. The material from which the smoke exhaust channel will be built (steel pipe, ceramics, brick).

Types of materials and their features

You can make any chimney with your own hands, but it is better to order a design diagram from a professional in order to comply with all technical standards and not have to pay fines later and not have to redo everything.

Made of brick

The coaxial type smoke duct is only suitable for boilers that provide permanent output hot air outside, and cold air inside the boiler. The boiler can be gas or solid fuel.

Stainless steel

Compared to a brick one, making a chimney from a steel pipe with your own hands is much easier. Ingredients for steel chimney They produce different modifications. A large selection of basic elements and adapters allows you to assemble a system of any configuration.

Advantages of steel chimneys:

  • Smooth inner surface does not retain soot and soot.
  • Easy to repair.
  • Resistant to high temperatures, which allows it to be used as a chimney for a solid fuel boiler.
  • Durability.
  • Compliance with fire safety requirements.

Choosing a chimney depending on the type of boiler device

  1. The chimney is made of steel, classic or coaxial type. Often used.
  2. The chimney pipe for a solid fuel boiler can be made of steel or ceramics, as the most heat-resistant materials. Refractory brick is also suitable, but is less often used due to the labor-intensive masonry work.
  3. The chimney for a gas boiler is made from any materials suitable for the project.

Chimney installation rules

In order to correctly install the chimney, a detailed diagram (drawing) of the future system is drawn up.

The thickness of the chimney pipe is on average from 15cm to 90cm

The calculation of a chimney for a solid fuel boiler, like any other, should be entrusted to a professional.

In strict accordance with the project, markings are made of those places in the ceiling, roof and walls where the pipes will be laid.

Using the marks, holes of the required diameter are made.

An adapter is installed that connects the boiler pipe to the pipe.

A tee with a compartment for collecting condensate and a fitting for removing it is connected to the adapter.

The next section of the system according to the diagram (flat or “elbow”) is connected to the tee.

In places where the pipe passes through a wall or roof slab, a through pipe is used. A sheet of thin metal with a hole for the pipe is attached to the wall and a chimney pipe is passed through it.

The joints of all pipes are fixed with clamps, which are tightened with bolts.

The chimney is secured to the wall with brackets approximately every 2 meters.

A tip - an umbrella - is attached to the top of the chimneys to protect against precipitation.

The last thing to do is insulate the places where the chimney passes through the walls and ceilings.

Safety during chimney installation

To avoid problems with the operation of the chimney and fines from the gas industry, a number of official standards for chimney installation should be observed:

  1. A special moisture collector is installed at the bottom of the pipe to remove condensate.
  2. The system has good traction to avoid getting hit dangerous products combustion inside the home.
  3. good ventilation, ventilation ducts in a private house need to be checked and cleaned in a timely manner.
  4. All connections are sealed.
  5. The diameter of the pipe and its cross-section meet the requirements specified in the instructions for the boiler.
  6. The location of the chimney is vertical, without ledges. The maximum permissible inclination is 30 degrees, while maintaining the diameter.
  7. The pipe connecting the boiler and the chimney is at least 50 cm long and must have a vertical section.
  8. The total length of all horizontal sections is less than the height of the room.
  9. If the walls of the house are made of flammable materials, the distance from them to the chimney is at least 20 cm. And at least 5 cm if they are made of non-combustible materials.
  10. wall in a wooden house, you need to make a layer between it and the wall from non-flammable heat-insulating material.
  11. The height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge is not less than 50 cm, and when flat roof- 1m.

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What not to do when installing a chimney for a gas boiler:

  • Fungi in the pipe that removes smoke from a gas boiler. They prevent the free release of hazardous combustion products.
  • Chimney pipes should not have more than 3 turns.
  • Laying a chimney through unventilated or residential premises.
  • Use porous materials.

The installation of a chimney should be taken seriously, because the life and health of the residents of the house, as well as the functionality of the entire heating system, depend on whether the chimney is made correctly. If the installation of the chimney is performed poorly, combustion products can lead to smoke or dangerous carbon monoxide entering the home.

How to make a ventilation and chimney passage through the roof

Today we will try to figure out how to correctly perform one of the most complex junctions - the passage of process pipelines for the chimney and ventilation through the roof. It is not for nothing that many methods have been tried for this, the best of which we will share with you.

Rafter systems and chimney configurations
The passage of the chimney through the roof can be carried out at almost any slope inclination, with the exception of pyramidal and folded roofs with an angle of more than 70°. Limitations are imposed for the most part by the common shapes and sizes of special fittings for insulation - the roof trim of the chimney.
The pipe outlet to the roof must be located on a flat slope, at a distance of at least 1 meter from the ribs and valleys. Firstly, this is the only way to properly install the apron and lining, and secondly, no major interventions in the rafter system will be required.
If ventilation ducts can be routed through the roof with a minimal layer of lining, or even without it at all, then chimneys need additional thermal insulation from the roof pie. We will touch on this issue later, but for now we need to make a choice between round and rectangular cross-section well. A well made of brick can be installed quickly and efficiently through the roof; it has the most suitable geometry. Both ventilation pipes and a chimney can be grouped in one well.
A round passage is also possible, but the chimney in this case will require a casing pipe with a diameter of 350–400 mm larger than the chimney. Difficulties arise in securing it in the roof pie; moreover, not every roof cut has a wide enough cuff.

Placement: what you need to know**
It is optimal if you are constructing a rafter system with wells and pipelines already installed, however, the sequence of work may be forced to change.
If the channels are already installed, all that remains is to correctly assemble the frame system. The rafters closest to the pipelines should be 50–70 mm away from the ventilation ducts; they should be 200–250 mm away from the chimneys. During the heating season thermal radiation from the chimney is large enough to cause uneven shrinkage of the wood and its warping. Change the installation pitch of the rafters and do not be afraid to place pairs of trusses closer than the design distance.
It is better to place the chimney 15–20 cm from the top ridge: this way the protrusion of the chimney above the roof will be minimal and there will be no difficulties with sealing the upper part of the cut. Decide for yourself how to implement this: build a well as close to the ridge as possible or make the roof slopes unequal and bring them directly above the chimney.
Unloading the roof

If you have to break critical elements of the rafter system, which can happen if the rafter installation step is less than the thickness of the well, it is necessary to unload the roof. At 40–50 cm from the upper and lower boundaries of the passage, you need to place horizontal beams 5–6 spans long under the rafters. They are supported by vertical posts so that each of them is located strictly above one of the attic floor beams.
Using a plumb line, the attachment points for vertical posts that take part of the load from the rafters are marked. Each of the broken rafters must be supported in two places - above and below the cut area. If there is a brick well, it is better to unload the rafter system onto it by replacing part wooden racks angle steel bevels.
Even if the opening fits between the rafters, they should be tightened with horizontal jumpers of the same width, forming a convenient pocket for laying a thermal insulation belt. Sometimes, for reasons of saving material, it makes sense to install vertical jumpers at the same distance from the pipe or well.
Cutting an opening in the roof

If the construction of the rafter system and the remaining stages of installation are carried out with the well or pipes laid out, the opening is formed as the roof is assembled, which in most cases does not cause difficulties. If you need to cut an opening in an already finished roof, you should follow a certain procedure:
The roof is unloaded and all the necessary lintels are installed.
The jumpers that form a pocket for thermal insulation are installed at a distance from the ventilation pipes equal to the thickness of the roof insulation.
The walls of the box for unlined chimney pipes are installed with an indentation of 200–250 mm. For brick wells and insulated sandwich pipes, the lining is done in the same way as for ventilation pipes.
Using a plumb line, the profile of the through opening is transferred to the sheathing in the shape of a pipe or well.
If the roof covering is not resistant to high temperatures, it is cut exactly along the perimeter of the pocket.
Almost any coating cuts well electric jigsaw or with a reciprocating saw, if you first screw the cut out fragments of the sheathing to it.
The distance from the walls of the pocket allows you to cut the coating from the inside, but if cutting is carried out around the perimeter, you can transfer the markings to the street using through holes at key points.
As a result, the roof is ready for installation of a pipe or further protection from moisture and heat leaks. Specific Method The arrangement of the passage channel depends on its type.
Ventilation ducts, cuttings and cuffs for them

Ventilation passages for a cold attic space may not need to be insulated at all; it is enough to make a neat hole in the insulation, sheathing and roofing. But if warm air from the house or attic passes through the pipes, an imbalance in temperature can lead to condensation. For this reason, a small belt made of moisture-resistant material such as PPS or polyurethane foam is required around the pipe. The belt is cut into two equal parts and placed in a pocket on both sides of the pipe and secured to polyurethane foam. She also needs to seal the seams and cracks, and then sew up the pocket with plywood, cutting it out in a similar way and placing it perpendicular to the insulation.
On the front side of the roof, a roof groove is installed for the appropriate pipe diameter and slope angle. Most are installed over the roof; some may require simple trimming and sealing.
Chimney lining - do it safely

After installing the chimney pipes, the clearance in the opening is tamped down from below with fine steel mesh. If the pipe is round, then a galvanized steel strip is attached at four points of the opening, forming a casing sleeve. You can avoid this step by filling the entire pocket with thermal insulation, but this will take up more material: the insulator must be packed tightly. For chimney lining, it is recommended to use foam glass or stone wool 120 kg/m3.
The advantage of the casing sleeve is a smooth and neat oval hole in the roof, convenient for laying insulation and tightly covered with cutting. For round chimneys, galvanized steel trims are used.
Wells rectangular shape should be improved from the outside using prefabricated aprons. Special cases for chimneys are quite common. different shapes, their main task is to prevent slanting rain from entering the place where the neck adjoins the well.