How to insulate a chimney pipe with your own hands: choosing a heater, preparing and performing thermal insulation work. How to insulate a chimney pipe - proven and reliable options How to insulate a steel chimney
The article will discuss how and with what to isolate the chimney pipe. Several practical methods are presented.
Chimney pipe insulation is required to prevent leaks and overheating. Simply put, it allows you to increase the life of the structure. Experts recommend performing complex work, which includes hydro and fire insulation.
Sauna chimney
When performing insulation of a chimney in a bath, the safety of people should be a priority. The main threat indoors comes from open flames. Therefore, it must be protected, having previously made the overlap resistant to high temperatures.
Basically, baths are built from wood, a highly flammable material. A very common misconception is the belief that sheeting the ceiling with metal sheets is sufficient. But in reality, such protection is not enough. After all, the upholstery will still heat up, which can lead to ignition. A popular solution to the problem is to insulate the chimney with red brick. But this is not suitable for every bath design.
There are currently two good options for chimney insulation:
- Folgoizol. A bath with such insulation will not lose heat, everything works like a thermos. At the same time, it warms up quite quickly, keeping the temperature for a long time.
- Teploizol. The material is used for winding the chimney.
A popular solution is the use of sandwich pipes, which demonstrate a high degree of safety. The construction of the insulation consists of several sections that can be easily combined with each other. This option is also suitable for saunas with a metal stove.
It is important to responsibly approach the brickwork in the bath. The duration of the operation of the building directly depends on its quality. You can not save on materials or work. After all, the need for repairs in the future will be associated with much higher costs.
Winding of a metal chimney
“How to wrap a metal chimney pipe in a bath?” - a popular question among gardeners. After all, there are many materials used for this cottage. The absence of combustible substances in the coating is a paramount nuance that must be taken into account. It is preferable to use a quality material that has all the necessary properties. It must also be completely safe to use.
The most common materials:
- glass wool;
- Fibrous building materials;
- Mineral wool.
Insulation of a metal chimney
Insulation of chimneys of a metal chimney is a separate topic for discussion. After all, it contains a number of nuances, which will be discussed later. This is a very difficult task, so it is recommended to perform it during the construction of the bath. It is more difficult to work with a finished building, because it may require rebuilding the roof.
A good solution would be to use sandwich pipes. This design is easy to manufacture, in addition, the cost of specialists will be reduced. However, the material itself does not belong to the budget. But the service life and quality fully justify its cost. Sandwich pipes are additionally insulated with mineral wool.
How to isolate the chimney, everyone decides for himself. It is important to remember that such insulation allows you to protect the chimney from the negative effects of combustion products, as well as moisture. If you do not worry about insulation in time, then there is a risk of destruction of the bath. After all, acid-enhanced condensate slowly destroys building materials. It poses the greatest threat in the spring, when the pipe begins to thaw (in more detail: "").
Box manufacturing
About how to insulate the iron pipe of the chimney, it was said earlier. Now you can move on to the next step. Many people think that making a chimney box is too difficult a task. In reality, this is not so. It is enough to approach the work responsibly, with knowledge of the matter.
Required tools:
- Drill;
- Scissors for metal;
- Compass;
- metal sheets;
- Self-tapping screws.
Stages of work:
- Hole preparation. Along the edges, it is necessary to fix the bars, which will act as a support for the body.
- Two blanks are cut from a metal sheet. They are given a U-shape. Then the finished parts are screwed to the ceiling using self-tapping screws.
- Again, two blanks are made, but they are already fixed on standing sheets with a small spade. It turns out a solid frame in the ceiling.
- Now the bottom is made for the box from a metal sheet. In the center of the workpiece there should be a hole for the chimney, here you need a compass.
- The box contains four fasteners of two centimeters. They are cut and bent perpendicular to the bottom.
- Walls are attached to the bottom. Now a chimney is inserted into the box, it is additionally fixed with clamps. The voids are filled with an insulating layer.
Chimney installation
Installing a chimney is not as simple a task as it might seem at first glance. There are many nuances that should be taken into account. If the chimney is not installed with sufficient quality, this can lead to property damage, as well as creating discomfort for the people inside, and harming their health.
Stages of work:
- The preparatory stage, where a project of work is selected, materials are purchased, and the form of construction is determined. There are straight chimneys, as well as designs with various bends.
- Now you can start assembling the chimney. Pipe joints, elbows and tees must be fastened with clamps.
- Passing the chimney through the roof using a special tool. To begin with, the level of the slope of the roof is determined, based on the data obtained, a suitable place is selected. It cuts a hole for the workpiece. From above, everything is insulated with a roof cut, and from the inside - with a cover sheet. See also: "".
- A special apron is fixed on the branch pipe. The pipe is extended to the required dimensions, its top is partially insulated with a special cover in the form of an umbrella. It will prevent atmospheric precipitation from entering the chimney.
Chimney fixture
The workpiece must be brought to the roof through the attic. All cracks, especially voids between the roof and the pipe, are filled with waterproofing. When removing the workpiece, you must remember safety precautions.
An elbow is used to secure the chimney pipe. It is designed to control the vertical arrangement of the structure. To give everything reliability, the pipe is additionally attached to the wall, using suitable brackets. Usually they are included in a ready-made set. They can also be made by hand, it is best to use metal corners as the basis for them.
As soon as the insulating structure is in place and securely fixed, it is necessary to close the chimney pipe with an umbrella. It is designed to protect the structure from precipitation, poplar fluff and fallen leaves. It is also necessary to think in advance how to cover up the chimney pipe, in order to avoid leaks.
Replacing a brick pipe with a metal one
If a brick chimney is not enough, it can be further extended with a metal pipe. The task is laborious, but quite realizable. It is important to approach it with all responsibility.
To begin with, a flat steel platform with a pipe is made. Moreover, its diameter should be the same as the diameter of the metal pipe that is planned to be used. The site must be securely fixed. It is fixed with dowels and screws. Sealing will add additional reliability.
Work order:
- On the brickwork, you need to mark the points at which the mount will be installed. They can not be placed on the masonry seam. It is advisable to place them closer to the center of the brick, and not on its edge.
- Holes are drilled in the marked places to accommodate the dowels. At the same points, holes are made on a flat platform, self-tapping screws will go there.
- A refractory sealant is applied to the brick base, then a steel platform is placed there. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the dowels. It is important to monitor the fit and uniformity.
- Now it remains to wait for the sealant to dry completely and proceed directly to extending the chimney using a metal pipe.
Important installation details:
- If the length of the pipe section above the roof exceeds 1.5 m, it is recommended to equip it with special stretch marks that strengthen the structures (read also: "").
- It is impossible to install a branch pipe, the length of which from the stove to the head is more than 5 m.
- Installing special plugs allows you to get rid of condensate.
- The section of the chimney above the roof must be longer than 1.5 m.
- Do not narrow the pipe when installing the chimney.
- Nearby structures made of flammable materials should not be heated to a temperature of 50 o C.
- The chimney must not be placed near electrical wiring.
The decision on how to insulate a metal chimney pipe should be made based on the budget, as well as the needs of the structure. It is important to approach the task as responsibly as possible, performing work in full compliance with all norms and nuances. Then the insulation of the chimney will last a long time without any complaints.
Types of insulation of chimney structures
Options for fire insulation of smoke extraction systems
Chimney waterproofing methods
Chimney pipe insulation
Insulating materials for bath pipes
Plastering a pipe made of bricks
The use of asbestos-cement sheets
Insulation of single metal pipes
Floor insulation
When building your own home ownership, as a rule, they equip a fireplace or stove. Therefore, the problem of chimney outlet is so relevant. Properly and reliably made insulation is important for a chimney, otherwise it is impossible to be sure about the fire safety and comfortable stay of family members in the house.
If the stove has already been laid out, and the smoke exhaust structure rises above the roof of the building, this does not mean that the work on its arrangement has been successfully completed. Before using the heating unit, you still need to decide how to insulate the chimney pipe on the roof and, as a result, protect your home from leaks and fire.
It is advisable to think about this problem before the furnace design is drawn up and then the insulation will turn out to be more reliable. As for the previously built chimney, such work is almost always associated with changes made to the design of floors and roofs. Regardless of the decision how to insulate the chimney on the roof, all the expenses incurred will be offset by a sense of security, and hence comfort.
To insulate the pipe for the furnace should be from negative factors:
- from possible overheating of the chimney structure;
- from leaks that occur at the joints.
Therefore, when deciding how to wrap the chimney pipe, increased attention should be paid to fireproof thermal insulation and waterproofing. Experts recommend to carry out isolation measures in a complex manner. This will help solve not only the above problems, but also improve the operating conditions of the furnace unit.
For example, if a chimney running through an unheated attic space is thermally insulated, the possibility of overheating of wooden roofing elements is reduced and the risk of condensation, which leads to corrosion, increased soot deposits or pipe destruction, is reduced. Waterproofing the smoke exhaust structure will protect the truss system and ceilings from rotting.
Options for fire insulation of smoke extraction systems
The simplest and most reliable, but expensive way to insulate a chimney is to install a sandwich chimney made of metal or ceramic.
In such designs, the inner pipe, designed to remove smoke, is made of heat-resistant steel or ceramic, while non-combustible materials are used for its thermal insulation - mineral, stone or basalt wool (see also: "Types of heat-resistant pipes, advantages, technical characteristics"). The outer part of the chimney sandwich is made of steel or expanded clay concrete blocks.
Kits for prefabricated chimneys include elements for fixing the structure, revision, maintenance and for connecting heating units. Their installation is simple, but you still need to follow the instructions so that safety is fully ensured.
There is another option used when installing a furnace unit - the construction of a brick chimney. Due to the low degree of thermal conductivity of bricks, its walls will not heat up to extremely high temperatures and, as a result, additional measures related to its insulation will not be required (for more details: “How to insulate a chimney, which insulation to use”). It will only be necessary to correctly perform the fire-prevention cutting of floors and roofs.
In order to save money and reduce weight, sometimes the construction of a brick chimney is completed with the installation of a ceramic or metal pipe. In this case, thermal insulation is produced according to the technology described below.
When such work is performed for single pipes, boxes made of non-combustible materials can be used. Chimneys of this type are allowed to operate without thermal insulation, but fire-prevention cutting is required in accordance with the rules.
Chimney waterproofing methods
Waterproofing of chimneys should be created in the place where they are displayed on the roof. The further they are located from the ridge, and the larger the pipe, the more difficult the operating conditions will be.
Atmospheric precipitation in the case when the insulation of the chimney pipe is insufficient, begins to penetrate inside the building. As a result, leaks occur, rot and the floors are destroyed.
The method of waterproofing, as a rule, depends on the shape of the pipe and the material from which the roofing is made. For round products, either metal or polymer cuts are used, and for pipes having a rectangular cross section, aprons and abutments made of metal are used.
Chimney pipe insulation
Before insulating the pipe on the roof, you should make sure that the requirements prescribed in SNiP 2.04.05-91 are met, and if any shortcomings are found, eliminate them:
- To ensure the required traction force and prevent the furnace gases from exceeding the temperature, the height of the pipe should start from 5 meters.
- When the roofing is made of roofing material, slate or other combustible material, a spark arrester is installed on top of the pipe, which is a metal mesh with small cells.
- Between combustible elements, such as ceilings, rafters and walls, and the chimney, a gap of at least 25 centimeters must be left.
- From the upper ceiling of the stove to the ceiling, a fire-prevention distance is maintained. For metal units, it is at least 150 centimeters, for brick ovens with a two-row overlap -50 centimeters, with a three-row overlap -25 centimeters, provided that the ceiling surface above the heater is finished with non-combustible materials.
In the place where the brick chimney crosses the ceiling, fluff is arranged with a thickness of 1 - 1.5 bricks.
Insulating materials for bath pipes
Since bath buildings are often built of wood, these objects need to be insulated from chimneys, stoves, ceilings, walls, as this material is highly flammable. It is necessary to think about how to secure the pipe in the bath by making the thermal insulation of the smoke exhaust structure so that it cools more slowly and condensate does not collect on it. See also: "How and with what to isolate the chimney pipe - the best time-tested solutions."
It will be a mistake to decide to isolate the pipe in the bath by attaching a sheet of iron to the ceiling, since it gets very hot. As an option, how to overlay the chimney, use refractory red brick, but in this case, you need to strengthen the foundation.
When solving the problem of how to wrap a metal chimney pipe in a bath, experts distinguish foil and thermal insulation.
Plastering a pipe made of bricks
The outer surface of brick pipes heats up slightly, so they are plastered to improve operating conditions and extend their service life. The most affordable option for insulating chimneys made of bricks is plastering with mortar using lime and cement. In its composition, instead of sand, you can add slag crumb, previously sifted.
The layer of plaster, when there are a lot of irregularities on the pipe, turns out to be quite thick, therefore, at first it is better to repair all the existing differences and cracks on the surface with a solution, and then cover it with a reinforcing mesh.
Plastering is performed in two layers, using the entire pipe. The first time the solution is brought to the density of sour cream and applied by spraying and not leveled. For the next layer, the composition is made thicker. It is applied with a trowel and then rubbed until a smooth surface is obtained.
The use of asbestos-cement sheets
Such a method of insulation for chimney pipes made of bricks, such as lining pipes with asbestos-cement materials, is several times superior to plastering in terms of heat saving. Asbestos-cement slabs are glued to the outer surface using a cement-lime mortar.
After preparing the composition, the smoke-removing structure is reinforced with a mesh, and the first layer is applied by spraying. When it dries, asbestos-cement slabs are cut according to the size of the pipe. The next layer of the mixture is applied to the pieces of insulation and attached to the surface of the chimney.
But this method has a big drawback - asbestos contains carcinogens and therefore it cannot be used in residential areas.
Insulation of single metal pipes
The most dangerous option for arranging a chimney in terms of fire safety is a pipe made of metal products, which is not protected by a heat insulator. The distance between it and wooden or plastic elements should be at least 60 centimeters.
But even the presence of such a gap is not able to protect against burns in case of accidental contact - for this reason, it is advisable to insulate the pipe until problems arise.
When deciding how to wrap a pipe in a bath or house, if it is single, it is the use of non-combustible insulation, for example, basalt wool, which is protected from above with metal or plaster. This heat insulator has a melting point of 1000 degrees.
The sequence of actions in this case is as follows:
- Mats of 5 cm thickness, consisting of basalt wool, are overlapped around the pipe and fixed with steel wire.
- They wrap the heat-insulated chimney with a reinforcing mesh, fix it and apply plaster on top in two layers.
- Instead of plastering, you can use sheet iron, which is rolled up and riveted at the point where the edges meet.
Floor insulation
There is a certain procedure for insulating the chimney pipe in the ceiling:
- In the ceilings and the roof, holes are made for laying a smoke exhaust structure so that a distance of at least 25-35 centimeters remains from their edge to the pipe walls (read: “How and with what to close the gap between the pipe and the roof - different options for different materials”).
- The edges of the holes are covered with metal or asbestos-cement sheets or a heat-insulating box is equipped.
- The space near the pipes is densely filled with heat-insulating wool.
- Wooden structures located near the chimney passages are covered with special flame retardant compounds.
Having figured out how to insulate and how to wrap a pipe in a bath or house, you can do this work without much effort.
But even a well-insulated chimney should be operated correctly:
- clean soot at least 3 times a year;
- remove ashes from the stove in a timely manner;
- do not burn foreign objects and materials in the unit.
Sauna chimney
Winding of a metal chimney
Insulation of a metal chimney
Box manufacturing
Chimney installation
Chimney fixture
Replacing a brick pipe with a metal one
The article will discuss how and with what to isolate the chimney pipe. Several practical methods are presented.
Chimney pipe insulation is required to prevent leaks and overheating. Simply put, it allows you to increase the life of the structure. Experts recommend performing complex work, which includes hydro and fire insulation.
Sauna chimney
When performing insulation of a chimney in a bath, the safety of people should be a priority. The main threat indoors comes from open flames. Therefore, it must be protected, having previously made the overlap resistant to high temperatures.
Basically, baths are built from wood, a highly flammable material. A very common misconception is the belief that sheeting the ceiling with metal sheets is sufficient. But in reality, such protection is not enough. After all, the upholstery will still heat up, which can lead to ignition. A popular solution to the problem is to insulate the chimney with red brick. But this is not suitable for every bath design.
There are currently two good options for chimney insulation:
- Folgoizol. A bath with such insulation will not lose heat, everything works like a thermos. At the same time, it warms up quite quickly, keeping the temperature for a long time.
- Teploizol. The material is used for winding the chimney.
A popular solution is the use of sandwich pipes, which demonstrate a high degree of safety. The construction of the insulation consists of several sections that can be easily combined with each other. This option is also suitable for saunas with a metal stove.
If the question is how to insulate the chimney pipe in a traditional Russian bath, then the best solution would be to use red brick. This material is resistant to fire, able to retain heat for a long time. See also: "How and how to make pipe insulation in a bath - materials and methods."
It is important to responsibly approach the brickwork in the bath. The duration of the operation of the building directly depends on its quality. You can not save on materials or work. After all, the need for repairs in the future will be associated with much higher costs.
Winding of a metal chimney
“How to wrap a metal chimney pipe in a bath?” - a popular question among gardeners. After all, there are many materials used for this cottage. The absence of combustible substances in the coating is a paramount nuance that must be taken into account. It is preferable to use a quality material that has all the necessary properties. It must also be completely safe to use.
The most common materials:
- glass wool;
- Fibrous building materials;
- Mineral wool.
Insulation of a metal chimney
Insulation of chimneys of a metal chimney is a separate topic for discussion. After all, it contains a number of nuances, which will be discussed later. This is a very difficult task, so it is recommended to perform it during the construction of the bath. It is more difficult to work with a finished building, because it may require rebuilding the roof.
A good solution would be to use sandwich pipes. This design is easy to manufacture, in addition, the cost of specialists will be reduced. However, the material itself does not belong to the budget. But the service life and quality fully justify its cost. Sandwich pipes are additionally insulated with mineral wool.
How to isolate the chimney, everyone decides for himself. It is important to remember that such insulation allows you to protect the chimney from the negative effects of combustion products, as well as moisture. If you do not worry about insulation in time, then there is a risk of destruction of the bath. After all, acid-enhanced condensate slowly destroys building materials. It poses the greatest threat in the spring, when the pipe begins to thaw (in more detail: “Why does condensate appear in the chimney pipe and how to get rid of it”).
Box manufacturing
About how to insulate the iron pipe of the chimney, it was said earlier. Now you can move on to the next step. Many people think that making a chimney box is too difficult a task. In reality, this is not so. It is enough to approach the work responsibly, with knowledge of the matter.
Required tools:
- Drill;
- Scissors for metal;
- Compass;
- metal sheets;
- Self-tapping screws.
Stages of work:
- Hole preparation. Along the edges, it is necessary to fix the bars, which will act as a support for the body.
- Two blanks are cut from a metal sheet. They are given a U-shape. Then the finished parts are screwed to the ceiling using self-tapping screws.
- Again, two blanks are made, but they are already fixed on standing sheets with a small spade.
How is chimney insulation made?
It turns out a solid frame in the ceiling.
- Now the bottom is made for the box from a metal sheet. In the center of the workpiece there should be a hole for the chimney, here you need a compass.
- The box contains four fasteners of two centimeters. They are cut and bent perpendicular to the bottom.
- Walls are attached to the bottom. Now a chimney is inserted into the box, it is additionally fixed with clamps. The voids are filled with an insulating layer.
Chimney installation
Installing a chimney is not as simple a task as it might seem at first glance. There are many nuances that should be taken into account. If the chimney is not installed with sufficient quality, this can lead to property damage, as well as creating discomfort for the people inside, and harming their health.
Stages of work:
- The preparatory stage, where a project of work is selected, materials are purchased, and the form of construction is determined. There are straight chimneys, as well as designs with various bends.
- Now you can start assembling the chimney. Pipe joints, elbows and tees must be fastened with clamps.
- Passing the chimney through the roof using a special tool. To begin with, the level of the slope of the roof is determined, based on the data obtained, a suitable place is selected. It cuts a hole for the workpiece. From above, everything is insulated with a roof cut, and from the inside - with a cover sheet. See also: "How to insulate a chimney pipe - proven and reliable options."
- A special apron is fixed on the branch pipe. The pipe is extended to the required dimensions, its top is partially insulated with a special cover in the form of an umbrella. It will prevent atmospheric precipitation from entering the chimney.
Chimney fixture
The workpiece must be brought to the roof through the attic. All cracks, especially voids between the roof and the pipe, are filled with waterproofing. When removing the workpiece, you must remember safety precautions.
An elbow is used to secure the chimney pipe. It is designed to control the vertical arrangement of the structure. To give everything reliability, the pipe is additionally attached to the wall, using suitable brackets. Usually they are included in a ready-made set. They can also be made by hand, it is best to use metal corners as the basis for them.
As soon as the insulating structure is in place and securely fixed, it is necessary to close the chimney pipe with an umbrella. It is designed to protect the structure from precipitation, poplar fluff and fallen leaves.
Replacing a brick pipe with a metal one
If a brick chimney is not enough, it can be further extended with a metal pipe. The task is laborious, but quite realizable. It is important to approach it with all responsibility.
To begin with, a flat steel platform with a pipe is made. Moreover, its diameter should be the same as the diameter of the metal pipe that is planned to be used. The site must be securely fixed. It is fixed with dowels and screws. Sealing will add additional reliability.
Work order:
- On the brickwork, you need to mark the points at which the mount will be installed. They can not be placed on the masonry seam. It is advisable to place them closer to the center of the brick, and not on its edge.
- Holes are drilled in the marked places to accommodate the dowels. At the same points, holes are made on a flat platform, self-tapping screws will go there.
- A refractory sealant is applied to the brick base, then a steel platform is placed there. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the dowels. It is important to monitor the fit and uniformity.
- Now it remains to wait for the sealant to dry completely and proceed directly to extending the chimney using a metal pipe.
Important installation details:
- If the length of the pipe section above the roof exceeds 1.5 m, it is recommended to equip it with special stretch marks that strengthen the structures (read also: “Methods for installing a chimney on the roof of a house - the advantages and disadvantages of different options”).
- It is impossible to install a branch pipe, the length of which from the stove to the head is more than 5 m.
- Installing special plugs allows you to get rid of condensate.
- The section of the chimney above the roof must be longer than 1.5 m.
- Do not narrow the pipe when installing the chimney.
- Nearby structures made of flammable materials should not be heated to a temperature of 50 o C.
- The chimney must not be placed near electrical wiring.
The decision on how to insulate a metal chimney pipe should be made based on the budget, as well as the needs of the structure.
It is important to approach the task as responsibly as possible, performing work in full compliance with all norms and nuances. Then the insulation of the chimney will last a long time without any complaints.
How is non-combustible thermal insulation of chimneys made
During the construction of many modern houses or country houses, fireplaces or stoves are erected. In this case, the question arises about the exit of the chimney to the roof surface. The roof chimney must be insulated. What is meant by this?
- Firstly, the pipe is best taken out in the right place on the roof.
- Secondly, the junction of the pipe with the roof must be hermetically sealed in order to prevent possible leakage.
- Thirdly, the chimney is usually heated to a very high temperature.
Therefore, it is necessary to protect the combustible roof from possible melting or even ignition.
Choosing the best place for the exit of the pipe to the roof
It is recommended to remove the chimney in the region of the roof ridge. Since the ridge is the least susceptible to moisture stagnation, and the roofing cake in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge is usually minimal.
In the presence of a ridge beam, difficulties arise with the removal of the pipe. To maintain the strength of the truss system, it must be constructed without a ridge beam. Or you need to use two beams at the same time, between which the chimney will pass.
Alternatively, you can pass the pipe not through the ridge, but next to it. In this case, the strength of the truss system will not be violated, and the pipe will be on the slope of the roof. It is strongly not recommended to bring the pipe into the roof valley, that is, in the lowest place where the slopes converge together. In this place, the phenomena of stagnation of water and snow are most often observed, which can lead to a leak at the junction of the pipe with the roof. When the stove or fireplace is located away from the desired outlet of the pipe to the roof, a curved chimney elbow is used as an adapter.
Chimney waterproofing
Chimney insulation device
How to fix a pipe on a roof , providing leak protection?
- On top of the pipe exit to the roof surface, a drainage gutter made of stainless steel is placed.
Competent thermal insulation of chimneys, what should it be?
It will divert water flowing down the slope from the pipe.
- Additionally, waterproofing aprons are used that are installed around the chimney. One part of the apron is adjacent to the pipe, and the other part lies on the roof.
- The places of contact of the apron material with the roof are insulated with sealant.
- The upper part of the apron must be brought under the roofing material. The sheet of roofing material should overlap the apron to avoid possible leaks.
- The bottom of the apron should overlap the roofing material.
Chimney from heat-insulated pipes
Modern chimneys are made from multilayer heat-insulated pipes with an outer layer made of stainless steel. Especially for them, special roofing passages are produced, which are a steel base sheet and an apron cap attached to it. The chimney pipe passes through this apron. The apron is attached to the pipe with a steel clamp having a heat-resistant gasket. Such aprons provide a seal between the roofing material and the pipe.
Roof protection against contact with a hot pipe
The main task facing the builders in the process of bringing the pipe to the roof surface is the fire safety of the house. Cutting the pipe on the roof is of great importance.
According to regulatory documents, the temperature of the heated pipe should not exceed +50 degrees at the point of contact with a combustible roof.
When using a brick pipe, this issue can be solved by increasing the thickness of the pipe walls. The recommended wall thickness is 35-40 centimeters. This thickness of the pipe guarantees the safety of the roof in terms of ignition.
The roofing cake is a layer of successively placed layers:
Roofing pie device
- vapor barrier,
- insulation,
- waterproofing,
- roofing material.
It is highly undesirable to violate its integrity, in order to avoid water getting inside the roof, and the gradual destruction of the entire pie.
It is necessary to provide a gap (space) between the chimney and the roof.
For this purpose, an additional box is made from wooden rafters and cross beams, located between the pipe and the roof.
- The distance between the walls of the box and the chimney should be about 15 centimeters.
- This gap is filled with some non-combustible material.
- All components of the roofing pie are cut and fixed with nails or staples to the rafters and cross beams, and the waterproofing is pressed with a crate or counter crate.
- If necessary, all suspicious joints can be sealed with sealant.
This will ensure the insulation of the chimney in the ceiling.
Competent waterproofing of the chimney with fire safety of the entire structure and the right choice of the place where the chimney exits to the roof are the main conditions, the fulfillment of which guarantees your home safety and the proper level of comfort.
Having built a bath, you need to take care of the safety of your loved ones. The main danger is live fire. If you do not perform high-quality insulation of the chimney, stove, ceiling and walls, then the ceiling may catch fire. According to the statistics of firefighters, in 2014, 70% of bathhouse fires occurred due to improper pipe insulation. We care about our readers and will tell you how to insulate a pipe in a bath with your own hands, what materials exist to protect wooden structures from fire.
The pipe in the bath must be safe and hold heat well.
The chimney and stove heat up quickly. Traditionally, bathhouses are made of wood and they ignite easily. In the old days, a layer of clay, asbestos and other available materials was used to insulate walls, ceilings, chimneys and stoves. The main thing is that the material is a poor conductor of heat and does not ignite at high temperatures. Protecting the chimney is necessary not only for fire safety purposes. Condensation will not form inside the insulated structure, the chimney will cool down more slowly and will serve the owners longer.
Furnace and pipe insulation with foil isolon. Some people think that it is enough to upholster the ceiling around the chimney with metal sheets, and the bathhouse is completely isolated from fire. The metal heats up in the same way, it will not save from fire. As a heat insulator for the chimney, it is also not suitable.
You can overlay the pipe with red brick, but not every bath provides for a similar design in design and size.
Modern manufacturers offer several material options for insulating a chimney in a bath:
- foil isol.
Let's briefly look at each type.
Thermal insulation for chimney insulation
Thermal insulation is a relatively new material. You can do the insulation with your own hands. Made from polyethylene foam, which is hidden between two sheets of foil.
Teploizol withstands high temperatures well and is suitable for insulating a bath pipe. Manufacturers offer Teploizol with a thickness of 2 to 10 mm. The thicker the material, the higher the temperature can withstand. For an easier presentation, consider the table:
The top foil layer will protect the chimney from strong heat. The material is easy to work with. It is wrapped around the chimney, secured with special metallized tape or wire.
Folgoizol to protect the chimney
Folgoizol consists of two layers: foil and heat insulator. The foil plays a reflective role and retains 90% of the heat in the bath. In terms of environmental friendliness, the material ranks first among similar ones, since thick food foil is used for manufacturing. The material is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation and high temperatures from -65 to +175 °C. It is a good insulator.
Folgoizol is coated with food foil, so it is harmless. Often foil isol cover not only the chimney, but also the walls, the ceiling of the steam room. It is an excellent insulation, steam and water insulator for a sauna or bath.
The sauna, finished inside with foil-insulation, resembles a thermos in design. The heat does not come out, the bath warms up quickly and cools down for a long time.
Sandwich pipe - a godsend for a bath
Modern manufacturers offer to install a safe sandwich pipe in a bath or sauna. By choosing a sandwich chimney, you don't have to worry about insulation. The chimney consists of several sections that are easily inserted into each other. It will be easy to assemble the structure with your own hands. A sandwich pipe is suitable for a bath or sauna with an iron stove.
Sandwich pipe immediately has built-in insulation and insulation. The design of the sandwich pipe resembles a multi-layered pie. From the inside, a layer of stainless steel, then a heater (basalt or mineral wool) is laid, outside galvanized steel. The design is a modern method of built-in prefabricated chimney insulation. The design is intended to perform two functions at once: soot does not accumulate inside, it does not overheat outside.
But the iron stove to which the sandwich pipe is intended is mainly used in the sauna. What to do if you have a traditional Russian bath with a brick stove, how to make insulation? We'll talk about this below.
How to insulate a pipe in a traditional Russian bath?
For the construction of a pipe in a bath with a stone stove, red brick is used. He is not afraid of high temperatures, keeps heat for a long time.
The design of the brick pipe must be correctly folded. How long the structure will last will depend on the quality of the masonry. When making a pipe for your bath, you should not save money, as repairs can be more expensive.
The pipe at the intersection with the roof, ceiling and other parts of the roof structure must be insulated with metal sheets. The outlet of the pipe on the ceiling and through the roof must be isolated from high temperatures using asbestos sheets. And the walls near the inside of the pipe are upholstered with galvanized metal sheets. Do not use simple iron sheets, as they are susceptible to corrosion. Around the pipe in places where it passes through the ceiling, you can make a box and fill it with expanded clay inside. It will additionally contain heat and protect wooden floors from fire.
Properly insulating the pipe is only half the battle. It is also necessary to take care of the stove, ceiling and walls of the bath.
Protective insulation of the furnace in the bath
Modern metal furnaces are simply installed on the foundation, the walls are sheathed with metal sheets from the back and side. A do-it-yourself stove made of metal looks unsightly, it can be overlaid with red brick. It will be an additional insulator and help keep the heat in the bath.
Scheme of insulation of the furnace in the bath. Previously, the stove was insulated with asbestos sheets, but at high temperatures it releases harmful substances. Therefore, we do not recommend using asbestos in the steam room.
It is more environmentally friendly to insulate the stove with natural felt. The material is expensive, but is a good insulator. The felt will not burn, and when a spark hits, it will begin to smolder. The smell during smoldering is specific, it is difficult not to notice such.
When installing the stove directly on a wooden floor, we recommend that you first lay the felt in two layers, then make a brick pillow in three rows. The walls and floor around are insulated with metal sheets 50–70 cm high.
Proper insulation of the chimney or stove will extend the life of the chimney and heat generator, as well as protect the wooden structure from fire. And after reading the article there will be no questions about how to isolate the pipe in the bath.
The construction of a chimney channel in a private house involves compliance with the rules of sealing and fire safety. When constructing a chimney in a house or at the outlet of a metal chimney in a bath through the roof, chimney insulation is the main indicator of the correct organization of this block of work.
The junction of the chimney with the ceiling and roofing materials remains a vulnerable area due to possible overheating and fire of the roof. To eliminate the possibility of a fire, it is important to organize the insulation and sealing of the roof in accordance with all the rules.
Pipe insulation at the joint
The release of new building materials and the development of advanced technologies are a guarantee of effective thermal insulation. The choice of materials for this purpose largely determines the shape of the chimney, the method of wrapping the pipe that removes hot gaseous substances during fuel combustion.
The main difficulty is to prevent the materials adjacent to the chimney from heating up excessively so that they do not ignite in any type of building.
Most buildings in private households have a chimney coming from:
- solid fuel boiler;
- fireplace;
- furnaces;
- plates for cooking.
They have different degrees of load and the level of heating to the maximum temperature, but insulation is needed in each case. A prefabricated or modular chimney, produced as a sandwich system, involves ready-made insulation of double pipes with a layer of basalt wool. It is effective both for insulation, to reduce the likelihood of condensation, and as protection against overheating of roofing materials at the exit through the roof. It remains to properly organize the tightness of this passage so that moisture does not enter the house.
Ceramic chimney kit Before insulating a pipe in a bathhouse or residential building, you should choose the option that is most suitable for your design. A ceramic chimney is no less efficient and durable; it is used for a fireplace or a bath. The assembly of the finished structure includes components made of fire-fighting materials. Some of them adjoin directly to the pipe or cover it, others are designed to seal the passage through the roof.
The choice of location for the chimney outlet should be such as to facilitate the insulation work. But the pipe should rise 30-40 cm above the ridge, in order to avoid reverse thrust in strong winds, so the pipe is often led out through the ridge.
How to choose the right chimney outlet
Example of an external chimney outlet In the houses of the old design, when all the stove chimneys were made of brickwork, round pipes are led out through a square ceiling opening. The passage section in the ceiling is equipped with a special box made of wood or metal, keeping a sufficient distance to the chimney.
It is important to properly insulate this "window" so that all gaps are filled, and the materials at the junction are protected from fire. This gap is filled with mineral wool, and special fire-resistant plaster is used. Basalt and asbestos blocks are also used in a brick chimney.
The safe and secure exit of the chimney pipe through the roof opening is solved in 2 directions:
- fire protection of the roof truss frame at the pipe passage;
- waterproofing the hole from the penetration of precipitation with those materials that will help insulate the pipe and are most suitable for the type of roofing material and its color.
Conclusion of the pipe through the roofing pie in accordance with all fire safety standards
Separation of the chimney and multi-layer roofing cake (with insulation, hydro and vapor barrier) is carried out according to all modern standards:
- for double metal pipes, internal insulation with mineral wool is provided;
- a single pipe is covered with a finished insulating shell of the required diameter and protected from the outside;
- in brickwork, it is important to increase the wall thickness of the order (38-40 cm) and protect the contact surfaces with special plaster.
The box for the outlet of the chimney is constructed from a transverse beam and rafters, keeping a distance of at least 15 cm from the wooden structure to the metal chimney. The gap between them is filled with basalt wool.
The fire regulations state that the temperature in the contact circle of the chimney should not exceed 50ºС. The film membranes inside the roofing cake can be made of flammable materials, so a gap and additional insulation with non-combustible mineral wool is required between them and the pipe.
The membranes of the roofing pie, cut at the exit of the pipe, must be carefully cut and wrapped. Then they are pressed with a crate and fixed along the edges of the box with nails. For complete tightness of the roof, the pipe in this place must be wrapped with a special one.
When the chimney goes through an unheated attic, and not in a residential attic, the risk of overheating of the roof elements is reduced. Complete tightness of the insulation is necessary in any case, but it is better to additionally wrap the pipe with a special tape. Proper installation of the internal waterproofing and the outer hood will ensure reliable sealing after the thermal insulation of the chimney is installed in the roof opening.
Pipe exit through the roof Chimney insulation options
In most cases, well-organized chimney insulation on the roof counteracts the leakage of precipitation. But there are 2 types of possible leaks:
- from above, when the insulating cap is incorrectly installed above the roofing materials;
- from below when the waterproofing agents are incorrectly laid under the deck.
The simplest way to externally insulate a chimney is to install a ready-made insulating apron or cap.
Try to cut a similar device from a galvanized sheet yourself to fix a leak in an old roof, this will save money. With this method, no adjustment is needed - all the design features of the roof and the pipe coming out of it are taken into account.
Products of this type are also produced from different materials. It is important to choose an insulating cap (apron) that fits the width of the metal chimney pipe. Or a complete roof passage is selected, which is purchased along with a sandwich pipe.
Any building and roof gradually shrink, so rigid fastening of waterproofing is not always effective. Visually, the integrity of the roof is preserved, and signs of depressurization gradually appear at the joints. Experts recommend reinforcing the insulation at the places where the cap is attached - with an elastic heat-resistant gasket.
Among the most reliable structures for the passage of a pipe through the roof is a specially made box - like a truss system. Instead of wood, which belongs to flammable materials, it can be made of galvanized roofing, but in the same way.
The design of modular chimneys has ready-made thermal insulation, but they differ in configuration. For example, there is a double pipe with a layer of basalt wool or a special ceramic core and an outer casing made of concrete. The assembly of modular blocks is quite simple - the diagram is attached with the purchase.
It is possible to install a gasket made of asbestos, followed by sealing with asbestos mortar. Each new block of the module is attached above the previous one with the same composition of the mixture. After installation is completed, the pipe is isolated from leakage in the roof window in any way described.
Modern roofing with corrugated board has its own characteristics - here it is better to make the chimney window a little wider. All mating surfaces are also filled with materials with thermal insulating properties. The chimney, before being wrapped with basalt wool, is placed in a steel box. Carefully cut the film layers of vapor and waterproofing, fix them by the edges of the box. Between it and the pipe, it is imperative to make a heat-resistant filling.
Roof penetration Next, external waterproofing is carried out - a sealing cap material corresponding to the size of the chimney pipe is put on top, the edge is fastened with a clamp on glue. The lower edge is tightly fitted to the roofing material, rigidly fixed with a sealant. A steel cap is often included in the package of such a chimney. They are put on round pipes. The installation is recommended when the smoke from the solid fuel boiler at the outlet has a temperature of more than 100°C.
If you properly insulate the chimney pipe, then you will not be threatened with dampness and rotten ceiling.
The chimney is the central element of the chimney system in any private house where there is heating equipment that runs on solid or liquid fuels. For its effective operation, it is required not only to comply with the installation technology, but also to install a full-fledged heat-insulating layer, which will be located outside the chimney.
Why you need to insulate the chimney
During operation, a large amount of combustion products and hot air are transported through the smoke channel. All this reduces the service life of the chimney by accelerating the processes of corrosion and oxidation of the inner walls of the outlet channel.
Among the most common problems that lead to damage to the chimney are:
Insulation of the chimney using modern heat-insulating materials reduces the risk of damage and reduces the rate of corrosion processes. For example, the insulation of steel chimneys extends the service life of the product by 2 or more times.
Benefits of an insulated chimney
Timely thermal insulation of the chimney reduces the risk of exposure to factors that lead to the formation of damage in metal, brick or ceramics. With the right thickness of the insulation, the problem with condensate is solved almost completely - the dew point shifts to the pipe section located above the roof level. This significantly increases the resource of the smoke channel and the life of the flue system as a whole.
Insulation of the chimney increases its service life several times
Other benefits of an insulated chimney include:
- Reduced deposits - thermal insulation materials help to reduce the temperature difference between the combustion products and the surface of the chimney. This reduces the amount of substances deposited on the inner surface of the chimney.
- Energy saving - in the process of operation, an insulated chimney takes less energy received from fuel combustion. This reduces the consumption of fuel and energy spent on maintaining a constant temperature in the combustion chamber.
- Strength and stability - thermal insulation, mounted around the chimney, plays the role of a frame and increases the strength and stability of the structure. This is especially noticeable when installing thin-walled metal chimneys.
Modern heaters increase the frost resistance of the smoke exhaust system. If the insulation technology is followed, it is possible to reduce or completely eliminate the effect of high temperature in the area where the pipe exits through the roof.
Heaters for thermal insulation of a chimney
To insulate the stove chimney, materials are used that provide a high degree of insulation, coupled with low thermal conductivity. This eliminates the risk of cold bridges, icing and condensation.
Among the most effective and popular materials for insulation are the following:
- plaster - used for insulation of brick and stone chimneys. The plaster mortar is applied to the previously prepared reinforced surface. In terms of the ratio of labor costs and quality, this method is the least justified;
Chimney insulation with heat-resistant plaster requires unreasonably large labor costs
- broken brick - used for thermal insulation of brick and steel structures. The material is poured into a casing, which is fixed around the chimney. The minimum distance from the chimney is 60 mm. Sometimes slag is used instead of broken brick;
Screened slag densely fills the installation gap and provides a high degree of thermal insulation of the chimney
- basalt wool is a modern heat-insulating material produced in the form of mats or cylinders with various internal sections. The material is wrapped around the chimney and fixed to steel clamps. In terms of price-quality ratio, this method is the most effective.
In fact, all the methods described above have some similarities - the insulation is applied or fixed on the outer surface of the chimney. After that, the heat-insulating material is protected by a steel casing.
In order to save money, the outer steel pipe can be replaced with wooden or cinder-concrete slabs. For example, a rectangular frame can be fixed around the chimney using wooden shields at hand, and the space between the pipe and the shields can be filled with any heat-insulating material.
Which heater is better to choose
The first thing to remember when choosing a material for chimney insulation is that the insulation must be made of non-combustible components. During the operation of the chimney, the insulation will heat up to 100–150 ° C, and at the point where the pipe exits through the ceiling, the temperature may be even higher.
If the installation of the insulation will be carried out by one person, then it is better to choose the lightest and most solid material. Otherwise, during the warming, problems will certainly arise, which will ultimately affect the quality of the work carried out.
For self-insulation of the chimney, it is better to use basalt thermal insulation. The shape and thickness of the product is selected taking into account the existing design of the chimney.
The basalt cylinder can be matched exactly to the size of the chimney pipe
The advantages of heaters based on basalt wool include:
- high thermal insulation qualities;
- good vapor permeability;
- resistance to chemicals;
- immunity to the formation of fungus and mold;
- high heat resistance when heated above 100 ° C;
- environmental friendliness and safety.
Before using ready-made thermal insulation from the manufacturer, you should carefully study the technology of its installation. As a rule, high-quality products are completed with a paper insert or instructions that describe in detail how they are cut and installed.
Video: test for combustibility of basalt wool
The design of the steel insulated chimney
The insulated chimney is a pipe-in-pipe structure similar to a sandwich pipe, which is also used for the construction of smoke channels. Usually, a wooden box lined with asbestos boards or a large diameter steel pipe acts as an outer pipe.
Any insulated chimney consists of a smoke exhaust channel, an outer shell and a layer of insulation between them.
Between the outer shell and the chimney there is a non-combustible heat-insulating material, fixed mechanically or glued to a heat-resistant adhesive or sealant. The inside of an insulated chimney is nothing more than a chimney .
The layer of material used as a heater acts as a thermal insulation barrier. On the one hand, it does not allow the elements in direct contact with the chimney to heat up. On the other hand, cold air does not cool the chimney and thus does not create a sharp difference between the temperature of the outgoing combustion products and the inner surface of the chimney.
Calculation of materials and design parameters
Before purchasing insulation and materials needed to assemble the frame around the chimney structure, you will need to calculate them. This will save money, especially if specialized expensive products are used for insulation.
Before making calculations, you will need to measure:
- external section of the chimney;
- length and width (diameter) of the chimney;
- the height of the pipe from the inlet.
The data obtained allow us to calculate the required amount of heat-insulating material and accessories. As an example, we calculate the materials for insulating a steel chimney with a cross section of 200 mm and a height of 5 m.
For thermal insulation of round chimneys, ready-made cylindrical fragments of heaters are produced
When using a basalt "shell", products with a total length of 5 linear meters with an internal cylinder diameter of 210 mm will be required. The density of the insulation is 120–150 kg / m 3. The thickness of the heat insulator is selected taking into account the temperature regime in the region. For operation in the conditions of the Russian winter, cylinders with a thickness of 70–100 mm are sufficient. As an external pipe, a galvanized steel product with a cross section of 280–310 mm with a total length of 5 m is required.
To insulate square chimneys, it is convenient to use basalt wool in slabs
To insulate square or rectangular chimneys, you will need to know their dimensions. For example, a square chimney with a side of 0.3 m will require (0.3 * 5) * 4 = 6 m 2 of insulation. The length of the chimney is still considered to be 5 m.
If you buy high-quality insulation, then usually in one package there is a roll with a total area of 5 m 2. So, for our example, we need two packs of basalt wool in rolls. Roll parameters - 5000x1000x50 mm. To assemble the frame around a square chimney, you can use a 50 × 50 mm bar. An asbestos slab 3000x1500x12 is better suited as an outer skin.
Required Tools and Consumables
In addition to insulation, additional consumables are needed for thermal insulation work. To assemble the wooden frame and its sheathing, galvanized self-tapping screws 30 mm long are used. To fix the heat insulator, a refractory sealant is used - Penosil High Temp, PENOSIL Premium 1500 or MAKROFLEX HA147.
A heat-resistant sealant is used to fix the insulation to the surface of the chimney
To insulate chimneys made of steel or ceramics, you will need:
- metal scissors;
- construction knife;
- screwdriver;
- angle grinder;
- Screwdriver Set;
- goggles and gloves;
- tape measure and pencil.
To plaster the chimney, it is necessary to prepare a container for plaster, a plastering trowel, a wooden rectangular trowel, a triangular trowel, a rule and a long-haired paint brush.
Preparatory work before the installation of thermal insulation
Before carrying out thermal insulation work, you should check the reliability and strength of the foundation, which was erected under the stove or other heating equipment.
If there is no foundation, then before insulating the chimney, you will need to assemble the supporting structure under the outer casing. This can be either a support bracket, which can be purchased at the store, or a welded frame made from a steel angle. Usually, ready-made support brackets are used for steel chimneys, and in the case of a brick chimney, the foundation design is already designed for current loads.
After that, you should carefully examine the place where the chimney exits through the ceilings and roof. The exit point through the ceiling must be protected by a steel box. The minimum distance from the chimney to the walls of the box is at least 20 cm. When exiting through the roof, the chimney must not come into contact with the roof structures. To do this, provide appropriate spacers or a special cap, which is mounted outside the building.
The place where the chimney exits through the ceiling must be protected by a metal box.
Do-it-yourself chimney insulation
Before proceeding with the insulation, the outer surface of the chimney should be cleaned of dust and dirt. To do this, use a regular brush with a hard bristle and a broom. When cleaning a brick chimney, remove excess dust and loose cement. This can be done with a paint brush and water.
Brick chimney insulation technology
Insulation of a brick chimney can be done using different materials. The most time-consuming and inefficient method is plastering, but many still use it, since it does not require large expenditures. On average, after work, heat loss is reduced by 20-25%.
The sequence of actions for plastering is as follows:
- In a clean container with a rounded bottom, a mortar based on M500 cement, dry lime and fine slag is kneaded. The slag is screened before kneading. The first portion of the solution should be very thick.
For the preparation of plaster, it is necessary to knead a solution of cement, lime and slag
- The solution is carefully applied to the seams between the bricks. At this stage, you need to fill in all the voids. It is advisable to do this before the steel mesh is fixed to the surface of the pipe.
Brick chimneys are sometimes insulated with heat-resistant plaster, although this is considered the least effective way.
- A reinforcing steel mesh is fixed on the surface of the chimney. Then you can begin to carry the plaster mix. The thickness of the first layer is no more than 3–4 cm. After application, the plaster layer should set and dry slightly.
- A second plaster layer up to 5–7 cm thick is applied. If the declared thickness cannot be applied, then a layer of 3–4 cm is applied. Next, you will need to wait for it to set and repeat the work until the plaster coating of the desired thickness is obtained.
- A finishing layer is being applied. The surface is carefully leveled and rubbed with a trowel. When dry, cracks may form, which must be covered before applying the finish.
After drying, the plaster is bleached with a solution of lime and chalk. If necessary, it is applied in 2-3 layers. Instead of a cement-slag mixture, heat-resistant plaster with fire resistance up to 600 ° C can be used.
Video: sheathing and insulation of a brick chimney
Steel chimney insulation technology
The technology described below can be used to insulate any round chimney, but is most often used for thermal insulation of steel structures. The sequence of work will depend on the type of external pipe. We recommend using the manufacturer's telescopic tube.
Thermal insulation work is carried out in the following order:
In the process of work, you should carefully monitor the docking of the elements. The joint between the upper and lower pipes must be without visible gap. When using pipes without a welded seam, the connecting joint is also treated with a sealant.
Video: steel chimney insulation
Insulation of square and rectangular chimneys
This technology is most often used for brick chimney insulation. But if necessary, this method can be used to insulate the chimney from one or more asbestos pipes.
Warming is carried out in the following sequence:
After installation, the seam between the asbestos plates at the corners of the frame is filled with heat-resistant plaster. From the side of the outlet from the chimney, the surface is also rubbed with heat-resistant plaster.
The main mistakes in warming
After performing thermal insulation work, a test furnace or boiler furnace should be carried out. The maximum power is not more than 60% of the nominal value. To diagnose and check the quality of insulation, you will need to purchase or rent a hand-held thermal imager. During the diagnostic process, you should find out how tight the outer casing of the insulated chimney is. If everything is in order, then neither the walls of the structure nor the connecting seams will let heat through. This will be clearly visible on the equipment screen.
Loss of tightness is the most common problem that leads to burnout of the chimney and overheating of the insulation. If such a problem is present, then it will be necessary to remove the outer pipe or casing and reinstall it in accordance with the technology.
Burnout of an insulated chimney can occur due to loss of tightness or due to improperly selected thickness of the heat insulator
If, after the chimney has been insulated, condensate still continues to accumulate, then, most likely, the thickness of the thermal insulation was chosen incorrectly. The minimum thickness of the insulation should not be less than 4 cm. For insulation of steel and asbestos pipes with a height of more than 6 m, it is recommended to use a heater with a thickness of 10 cm. When insulating brick chimneys, it is better to use heat-insulating boards with a total thickness of 8 cm or more.
Chimney insulation is a mandatory work that must be carried out immediately after the construction of the chimney system and ventilation. It is optimal if, already at the stage of arranging the chimney, modern heat-insulating materials or finished products with a heat-insulating layer are used. This will allow you to assemble a chimney that will last the entire declared period without forced downtime for periods of repair.
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