Do-it-yourself restoration is subject to exceptionally high-quality wooden furniture - this must be understood and recognized.

It only makes sense to breathe a second life into something that has served faithfully for many years. What was made by masters with a capital letter.

Agree, furniture made of Chinese chipboard is unlikely to fall under this concept. Her destiny is recycling.

What gives the owner the restoration of wooden furniture?

Old furniture, in which a piece of the soul was invested during creation, should not die. Such things are an elegant decoration of any private house, any spacious apartment. Cleverly "ennobled" wooden furniture can become a key accent in the interior, inspire the creation of interesting design solutions - from classicism to Provence.

Restoration of "cosmetic" defects

If there are small non-serious “injuries” on the furniture - scuffs, scratches - then they can simply be painted over. How? Any artistic paint: the only thing is that you need to carefully choose the color. You can hide the “treated” place with a special composition or ordinary transparent nail polish.

Deep scratches and cracks are successfully dealt with using furniture wax. On sale you can find transparent or colored, soft or hard samples. Warm up and rub the product. In the case of using transparent wax, the top area will need to be painted over with enamel or colored varnish.

Transparent wax is able to help out your "property" repeatedly - it is more profitable in economic terms.

If there are chips or deep pits from impacts on the surface of the furniture, you will have to go to the store for wood putty. The product should be applied carefully, in thin layers, allowing each of them to dry thoroughly. When the defect is completely eliminated, the area must be treated with sandpaper, wiped and varnished.

Full restoration of wooden furniture - we show diligence and imagination

If the condition of your furnishings is so serious that varnish, paint and putty alone are indispensable, only a major restoration of wooden furniture with your own hands will help change the atmosphere in the house.

Restoration technology step by step

1. Removal of old hinges, fasteners, etc., if their reliability and appearance leave much to be desired.
2. Removal of old paint. To do this, the surface is covered with a paint remover with a flute, and after an hour they are passed over it with a spatula. Rusted metal elements are treated with a special solution. Decayed, dead areas of the surface must be removed with a metal brush. Then the structural elements are quickly washed under running water.

Note! Water should not penetrate deep into the wood - just rinse.

1. Drying. It is carried out in the open air, but in no case under the scorching sun (several days).
2. Putty. It is worth making a reservation right away - it is not always needed. For example, when oak furniture is being restored and there is a desire to preserve the effect of antiquity on a surface that has not been mutilated by time.
3. Painting. Acrylic is perfect for painting prepared objects - it will protect the wood from destruction. Of the enamels, alkyd is better - although it dries for a long time, it is of high quality. You can refer to the formulations in the spray. As a "working tool" use a sponge, brush, roller. Two or three layers of coating are made, each of them is allowed to dry thoroughly. As for the color scheme, cream, coffee, peach and other pastel shades will be just right, especially for painting.
4. Lacquering. Depending on how much sheen you want, choose a glossy, matte or silky finish.
5. Painting. This item is entirely up to you. Want to express your creative ambitions? So why not! For a Provence-style house, choose a floral theme, for a country home - stripes and squares. In general, you can come up with your own unique style - the main thing is not to overdo it.

If it becomes necessary to glue individual structural elements, a two-component epoxy adhesive should be used. Both surfaces are lubricated (a certain pause is maintained) and tightly compressed. During the day, things do not touch.

When do you need professional help?

In some cases, the restoration of old wooden furniture may require the replacement of backs, walls, doors, legs. What to do? Of course, contact experienced craftsmen to make an identical part. At home, it is not always realistic to do such a scrupulous business, since machines, cutters, etc. will be required.

Restoration of oak furniture, as well as furniture made of walnut, ash, spruce, is definitely a worthwhile event, they throw it out only if absolutely nothing can be done.

Many homeowners still have old wooden and upholstered furniture. But it is very far in design from modern products. Cabinets, chests of drawers and bedside tables have an angular appearance that betrays their "venerable age". On sofas and armchairs, over a long period of operation, the upholstery was rubbed and lost its original color, and in some places it completely broke through to holes. However, many of the pieces of furniture still do not inspire fear in their strength and reliability, so there seems to be no reason to part with them. But their appearance often spoils the mood, making the room too old-fashioned and “shabby”.

The solution, it would seem, is simple - replace it with a new one. But, to be honest, many modern "budget" pieces of furniture are clearly not up to the "predecessors" in terms of their reliability and durability. But really high-quality products - they cost a lot, and not everyone can afford it. Or maybe you should not rush to get rid of old cabinets and sofas, sending them "in exile" to the country? Do-it-yourself furniture restoration is quite capable of turning it into products that fit perfectly into modern interior design.

Restoration of furniture items

If you decide to give some piece of furniture a "new life", you need to know that this is not only painstaking work that requires patience, but also a rather interesting creative process. Restoration will help save a decent amount from the family budget and will give the opportunity to reveal the talents of the owners.

You can update both wooden and soft surfaces of furniture. Moreover, today in specialized stores you can easily find various compositions and devices that significantly fit repair and restoration work.

It is immediately necessary to clarify - you should not take on the restoration of antiques on your own. Such restoration is a very delicate process that requires certain knowledge and can only be correctly carried out by a specialist with experience.

Therefore, further stages of restoration of various pieces of furniture produced in the second half of the last century will be considered. We will separately consider the restoration of hard surfaces (wooden or wood-based materials), and then the renewal of upholstery.

Surface restoration

Restoration of natural wood surfaces

Old natural wooden furniture can be lacquered or waxed. Over time, both the first and second coating options, even with very careful operation of the products, are damaged. Scratches and whitish spots appear on it, respectively, and the furniture loses its aesthetic appearance.

Quite often, countertops, cabinet doors and other panels of old furniture made of chipboard or typesetting were faced with veneer, which tends to dry out, crack and peel off the base over time. As a result of these destructive processes, the product also loses its attractiveness. However, if such flaws appear on the surfaces, you should not immediately send the furniture to the scrap, as it is quite possible to put it in order.

• If the facade panels of various pieces of furniture have simply lost their former gloss, then to return it, you can use a special tool for caring for wooden surfaces containing orange oil. It is sprayed onto wood and rubbed into it with a sponge. The sponge is pre-moistened and heated in a microwave oven for 25÷30 seconds. This process should be done while wearing rubber gloves.
• Another unusual way to deal with scuffs and stains on the wood surface is to rub them with a banana peel. She handles minor damage well.
• On any tabletop that has been used for a long time, you can find white spots with clear or blurry contours. Such traces can be left by a cup of hot tea or a wet vase. Moisture from the bottom of the container penetrates through the microcracks of the varnish to the wood and does not have the ability to dry quickly. As a result, individual sections of wood fibers are highlighted.

A simple and affordable remedy will help get rid of whitish spots - ordinary toothpaste. It is applied to the stain for one to two minutes, without rubbing into the surface, and then removed with a cloth. It is important to clarify that the gel-paste for cleaning the countertops will not work, as it will not give an effect.

• Another option for removing such and even more serious stains is the use of special retouching markers, which can be purchased at specialized furniture fittings stores.
• In addition, wax and denatured alcohol are used for restoration work. The process of updating the appearance of the coating is as follows:

- the surface is cleaned with dish detergent diluted with water;

- the highlighted places of the table are intensively rubbed with a swab dipped in alcohol;

- after the disappearance of stains, wax is applied to the surface and polished with a soft cloth.

In most cases, this method works flawlessly. However, if the countertop has deep cracks or scratches, then the alcohol in them will not restore the color of the wood.

• To mask cracks and deep scratches, special wax putties of different shades are used. They are sold in paste or solid form. To apply solid compositions, you will need a special heating gun with a stack nozzle that melts the wax. With this tool, you can mix different shades of putty, as well as blur the boundaries between the stripes of the composition of different colors applied to the countertop.

Check out the varieties, as well as their independent preparation and use, from our new article on our portal.

Very deep scratches in countertops can be successfully filled with putty. After the composition dries, the surface is polished with a soft cloth.

• If the top layer of the countertop is swollen from moisture in a certain area of ​​it, for example, if a leaking container has been installed on the table for a long time, then olive oil and salt are used to neutralize this defect. A slurry is prepared from these components, which is applied and rubbed in a circular motion on the damaged area. With such a “medicine”, the table is left for 25 ÷ 30 minutes. Salt perfectly draws in excess moisture, and olive oil will restore the elasticity of the fibers of the wood structure.

Polishing restoration

Restoring the lacquered surface of furniture is a more complex process, but it also begins with cleaning and degreasing the damaged areas of the panels. After the treated part dries, you can proceed to masking scratches and scuffs.

Sometimes, in order to hide damage, the most unexpected compositions and devices are used. For example, if the furniture surfaces are dark in color, then ordinary iodine is suitable for masking small scratches. However, you can also use a furniture marker of the desired color specially designed for this purpose.

If the scratches on the polish are deep, then you can’t hide them with a marker or iodine. Therefore, other methods are used for this purpose:

• You can make your own camouflage mastic, consisting of three parts of turpentine and four parts of pre-melted wax. The composition is applied to a polished surface and rubbed with a soft cloth.
• Use to repair scratches and a thick shoe polish of a suitable color. It is applied to the damage and allowed to harden, after which the surface is polished with a cloth.
• If spots of various origins have formed on the polishing, then they are removed with high-quality gasoline. They moisten a soft cloth and rub the stain. It may require repeated surface treatment, but the stains will certainly disappear. In order for the surface to have a uniform shine, after removing the stains, it must be rubbed with a mixture of denatured alcohol and linseed oil.

• If whitish stains from cups of hot tea remain on the countertop, they should be removed with alcohol. Surface treatment will need to be done several times. After the stain disappears, the entire countertop is treated with a composition of alcohol and linseed oil.

• If the stains from hot objects are deeper, then they are removed using a mixture of alcohol and drying oil. This composition is applied to the spots several times until they disappear completely. After the composition has hardened, the restored area is treated with alcohol and polished with a soft cloth.

If the polish is intact, but has lost its former luster, and it just needs to be “refreshed”, then you can use the following compositions, prepared on your own:

• A mixture consisting of one part of vinegar and two parts of turpentine and linseed oil is applied to the surface with a swab and left for 25÷30 minutes, and then this area is polished.
• Another composition is made from equal parts of linseed oil and beer. It is also applied for about half an hour, and then the surfaces are rubbed.

• Gives polish a shine and a composition made from boiled beer to which a small piece of wax is added. The mixture is cooled to a warm state and applied to the surface. After the applied composition dries, the panels are rubbed to a shine.

Removing the varnish layer

Polishing in modern times can not be called a fashionable and practical furniture finish. Therefore, many owners of such products update the surfaces with staining, or decorate the surfaces using the decoupage technique.

To apply paint to the surface or apply a different design, the varnishing will have to be removed - this can be done in several ways, since varnishes of different composition are used for the coating.

• Mechanical lacquer removal is suitable for removing any lacquer. This process is carried out manually or with a grinder. If you use an electric device for cleaning, the process will be quick and easy. To remove the varnish, a coarse-grained emery nozzle is first used, the coating is scraped off until wood or veneer appears. After that, the surface is processed with fine-grained sandpaper, and then polished to smoothness.

The work is extremely dusty, so cleaning is carried out with the obligatory use of eye and respiratory protection. And the grinder itself, if possible, should be directly connected to the vacuum cleaner so that the dust is constantly forcibly removed and collected in a dust bag.

In rare cases, when the varnish is applied with high quality, and also in a thick layer, the grinder does not cope with the task. The tool slides without removing the coating, but from intense friction it melts and emits an unpleasant odor. In this case, it is worth resorting to another cleaning method.

• The second option for removing varnish is to use a building hair dryer. The principle of this process lies in the strong heating of the lacquer layer, until it melts, and cleaning it off with a special nozzle-spatula. This method is much simpler than the first, while the hair dryer is able to cope with any layer of coating in thickness. True, the operation is also associated with a very unpleasant, pungent odor, and the work itself with a building hair dryer requires increased caution.

After the varnish is removed, the surface is cleaned of its residues using a grinder with an emery nozzle having a coarse grain (P80÷P100). Further, instead of a coarse-grained abrasive, a fine-grained one is installed on the device. The final stage of preparing the panel for subsequent decoration is its thorough grinding. Usually there is a gradual decrease in grain size from P100 to P400.

• Another way to help get rid of polishing is chemical products, of which there are many in specialized stores. It is important, when choosing a composition, to pay attention to the manufacturer's instructions, which should indicate its capabilities, that is, for cleaning which surfaces and for removing which paint and varnish coatings it is intended.

The selected liquid solution or paste is applied to the surface of the panel to be cleaned using a brush or roller. When applying the composition, it is necessary to ensure that there are no uncovered "islands".

It takes a certain amount of time for the chemical washer to react with the lacquer layer - it is usually indicated on the packaging of the solution. In order for the reaction to proceed faster, and the thinning composition does not evaporate, the panel is carefully covered with a moisture-proof material (in this case, an ordinary plastic film is quite suitable) and left for the required time.

When the coating softens, the plastic film is removed, and then the varnish is cleaned off with a wide spatula. When working with such chemicals, it is also necessary to take care of careful protection of the skin, eyes, and respiratory organs.

After such cleaning, the surface is treated with coarse-grained, then fine-grained sandpaper, after which it is carefully polished to a smooth state.

Veneer restoration

If the furniture panels are covered with natural veneer, which was planned to be preserved, but for some reason it was damaged, swollen or began to peel off, then you can try to restore it in several ways.

• If small chips or peeling of veneer have formed on the furniture, then a special composition will be required to repair the panel. A composition intended for restoring wood or for repairing car surfaces is suitable. Two-component formulations are convenient to use, which are kneaded with fingers before application - the warmth of the hands is enough to soften them.

In order to create good adhesion between the wood and the putty, the surface is well cleaned of dust and degreased with alcohol before applying the putty. The exfoliated part of the veneer must also be carefully removed. The softened and mixed putty is applied to the damaged area of ​​the panel and is well pressed against the base. It is best to choose a putty color that is close to the main color of the countertop. If one could not be found, then the repaired section of the panel will have to be painted. If the wood has not only a color, but also a relief pattern, then it can be applied to the uncured putty with improvised tools. The paint is applied to the restored area after the relief has been formed and the putty has hardened.

If the surface of the panel does not have a relief, then after the putty has dried, it is treated with fine-grained sandpaper.

• If the veneer layer is swollen, and a kind of bubble has formed on the panel, then the coating can be repaired using PVA glue. The composition is drawn into a syringe, a bubble is pierced with a needle and glue is injected into its cavity. A dense fabric is laid on top of the damaged coating, and then a massive load is installed, which is a bag made of dense fabric and filled with heated sand.

• If the veneer is not only swollen, but also cracked, then such damage is eliminated in three stages:

- first, the swelling of the coating is eliminated - this process is described above;

- then the cracks are sealed with putty of the required color;

- after the putty dries, the cracks are painted over.

• In some cases, when the veneer is fixed with alcohol glue, ironing it with an iron heated to about medium heat will help restore it to its original position. If dry ironing does not bring results, then you can try to fix the veneer through a damp cloth. Hot water vapor will give the wood elasticity, and it will easily take its original position.

• If the veneer could not be fixed with the help of heating, then you should try to peel off the raised section of the material from the base. If necessary, it can be broken off. It is not recommended to cut the veneer, as the cuts are much more difficult to mask than the break line. Further, the adhesive layer is carefully removed from the veneer and the base using sandpaper or a nail file. After that, PVA glue is applied to the surface, the veneer is laid on the panel so as to match the fault lines. From above, the area to be restored is covered with a dense cloth, and then a load is installed, which is removed only after the glue has completely dried.

Painting of furniture surfaces

If there is no desire or opportunity to remove varnish from polished furniture, but it is planned to be painted, then it can be prepared for painting by sanding with coarse and then with fine grain. After such a treatment, the polishing will lose its smoothness, and, accordingly, it will acquire adhesive properties.

After finishing the cleaning, the surfaces are cleaned of dust, and then primed. The composition of the primer must match the paint that will be painted. If, after applying the primer, damage or irregularities appear on the panels, they should be leveled with putty. After waiting for it to dry, the leveled areas are polished so that they become indistinguishable from the main surface.

The panel, cleared of varnish, may also have to be puttied and sanded. Having finished with grinding, the restored areas must be coated again with a primer, otherwise they will be stained after painting.

In fairness, it must be said about special primers, which make it possible to do without even processing a polished surface before applying paint to it. Their use is possible in cases where the surfaces are not damaged at all. The compositions are applied to the varnish, somewhat weakening the surface strength of the layer, so the paint will be easy to apply and hold well on the panels. The disadvantage of such soils is their rather high cost, but they save you from dirty and labor-intensive processes, and also save a lot of time.

• If you plan to preserve the textured pattern of wood, it is recommended to use varnish for coating. And it is better if it is water-based. On sale you can find colorless varnish options or making the surface darker, with some tinting. In addition, it is possible to make a choice between a matte or glossy composition. To avoid smudges, the panels are laid horizontally, and the varnish is applied to them with a wide brush. At the same time, you should not take too much varnish with her, but it is necessary to distribute it over the surface - with maximum uniformity.

• As a rule, furniture is selected for painting. It is applied to wood in several thin layers. Before applying the next one, it is necessary to wait for the final drying of the previous one. You should not rush and apply the paint in one thick layer, as it can lay down inaccurately, and eventually begin to peel off.

Coloring can be done with brushes of different sizes or with a spray gun. If a brush is used, then each of the layers of paint is applied perpendicular to the previous layer - this way you can achieve uniform coloring.

The paint is first applied to the inner surfaces of the panel, then to its ends and joints, and only after that they proceed to painting the facade. If this sequence is followed, the likelihood of smearing the already painted side of the panel is reduced, thereby spoiling its appearance.

• Separately, it is necessary to highlight the coloring of furniture using the "craquelure" technique, due to the use of which the surfaces acquire an "aged" appearance.

Furniture decoration in this technique is carried out in several stages. And each of them requires different formulations, which are sometimes sold as a kit.

The work on such restoration is carried out as follows:

- A thin layer of acrylic paint is applied to the cleared and primed surface. Most often, its metallized version is chosen.

- After the paint has dried, craquelure varnish is applied on top of it. The width and depth of decorative cracks will depend on the thickness of its layer - the thicker the layer, the wider the lines of the resulting grid.

- From above, the dried varnish is painted with a layer of matte paint. Its metallized or glossy composition for top staining is not suitable, since a mesh pattern will not form.

In order to artificially compose furniture surfaces, some craftsmen also use improvised means, which include:

- polyvinyl acetate or stationery glue;

— different types of furniture varnishes;

- edible gelatin, egg white, vinegar essence.

When using PVA glue, it is applied in a thick layer and dried a little. When the composition sets, but is still wet, it is painted with water-based acrylic paint. When the adhesive reacts with the paint, cracks will appear. Further, the surface can be dried with a building or household hair dryer.

If furniture varnish “PF283” is used to perform the “craquelure” technique, then after application it should be dried for about four hours at natural air temperature until a layer of sticky film forms on top. Next, acrylic paint is applied to the panel and left to dry completely and form a craquelure mesh.

Egg white is applied to a surface twice painted with acrylic paint. The protein is dried naturally, that is, without the use of a hair dryer. Next, the panel is painted with acrylic paint, which has a color that contrasts with the original layer.

In the same way, work is carried out using gelatin. The difference lies in the result - the thicker the layer of gelatin, the wider the lines of the craquelure mesh.

If a 9% solution of vinegar essence is chosen for work, then it is applied to a pre-applied and dried acrylic layer. Vinegar is applied with a sponge, resulting in a grid on the paint almost immediately.

It should be noted that decorating using the craquelure technique is a rather difficult task, so the expected effect may not work the first time. In order not to spoil the main surface, it is best to experiment on a separate fragment of the same panel first.

Decoupage on furniture

The decoupage technique is gaining popularity in our time, as it allows you to update the surfaces of various products, including furniture, without any special costs. The principle of the technique is to decorate objects with the help of paper napkins or wallpaper.

The paper is soaked in an adhesive solution and applied to wooden, polished or glass surfaces. After the glue dries, the pattern is varnished.

To decorate furniture, napkins or wallpaper can be used, depending on how you plan to decorate the products, that is, cover the surfaces completely or partially.

When performing the design of furniture accessories in this technique, it is necessary to take into account several nuances regarding the surfaces to be decorated:

• They should be smooth, that is, polished or well sanded, since the paper fits better and spreads out on a very smooth base.
• There should be no dents, chips or other damage on the panels, as they can spoil all the work done.

If wallpaper is chosen for decoupage, then it should be remembered that not all of their types are suitable for this purpose. When choosing this material, you should consider:

• should be paper and easily soaked in water, so two-layer vinyl and textile, as well as liquid wallpaper for decoupage, will not work.
• For decoration, the entire canvas or its individual elements can be used. Sticking small fragments is much easier, but filling large surfaces with a pattern will take a lot of work.

1. Paper wallpaper or napkins.
2. PVA glue.
3. Wood putty.
4. Sandpaper.
5. Solvent.
6. Stationery knife, tape measure, metal ruler and a simple pencil.
7. Brush and roller.
8. Lacquer on wood.

Finishing work involves the following steps:

• Surface preparation. It must be cleaned of dirt and slightly rubbed with sandpaper. Then, for better adhesion, wooden surfaces must be primed. This stage of work will simplify further procedures.

• Further, measurements of the countertop are made and a wallpaper sheet is cut off with a margin of about 150 mm. It must be spread on the countertop and tried on the spot.

• The next step is to prepare the adhesive solution - its amount depends on the area to be decorated. In this case, it must be borne in mind that the paper must be impregnated with glue very well. The glue must be completely dissolved in water, the composition must be made liquid. The proportions are approximately 1:3, that is, three parts of water should be used for one part of glue.

• The next step is to apply the glue with a brush, roller or sponge to the back of the wallpaper. It may be necessary to apply the solution in two or three layers, as the first layer of paper quickly absorbs and becomes almost dry again. Working with wallpaper is much easier than with napkins, as they have a higher density. However, the process must be done very carefully so that the canvas does not give breakthroughs.

• The soaked canvas is carefully turned right side out, laid out and leveled on the countertop. Further, it is necessary to use a roller to completely expel air bubbles and all excess moisture from under the paper. Rolling the glued finish starts from the middle of the width of the herringbone table top to its edges. At the same time, the paper is pressed very tightly against the base. Leveling continues until no wrinkles, folds or bubbles remain on the surface.
• Now the coating must be left to dry completely, otherwise the varnish will not go well and then begin to peel off.
• After drying, the excess wallpaper is cut off with a sharp knife along the contour of the countertop.

• The final step will be varnishing the wallpaper. It will also have to be applied in several layers, waiting for the final drying of each of them. The result should be a transparent lacquered coating with a thickness of approximately 2 ÷ 2.5 mm.

The decoupage technique is perfectly combined with craquelure. In this case, fragments cut from wallpaper or napkins are used for the drawing. The areas where the drawings will be fixed are not covered with craquelure varnish, as they must remain even. Therefore, after the first painting of surfaces, the location of the drawings is marked on them with a pencil, and these zones are not affected by varnish. After the varnish and the top coat of paint are applied to the panels, prepared paper drawings are glued in the marked places. Then, after waiting for the paper to dry, the entire panel is varnished in several layers.

Restoration of upholstered furniture

Now, having figured out how wooden surfaces can be put in order, it is worth considering the technology for restoring soft pieces of furniture. Quite often it is necessary to give new life to both wooden parts and upholstery of the product.

Upgrading an old chair - step by step

The table below will show step by step the process of restoration work of an old non-folding chair.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	As you can see in the illustration, the chair is pretty worn out over a long period of its service. The seat and armrests of the sidewalls are crushed, the lining is cracked. However, the base holds its shape perfectly and may well last for more than a dozen years, if you work on the rest. It should be noted that such restoration work is quite affordable for independent implementation. It is enough to have at hand all the necessary materials and tools.
	The first stage of work is the dismantling of furniture into its component parts. Simplifies the process of dismantling the fact that the seat of the chair is not fixed to the wooden frame. Therefore, in the first place, this part is removed from the chair.
	Next, from the bottom of the frame, you need to remove the sidewalls of the chair. They are usually bolted to the bottom and top of the structure. To unscrew the nuts, it is most convenient to use a socket wrench with a "ratchet". If not, you will have to tinker with the usual carob. The twisted nuts and washers must be kept as they will be required for reassembly.
	If the lower part of the frame is sheathed with fabric, then the chair is turned over on its side and the sheathing is dismantled. It is recommended that when removing it, immediately pull out the metal staples with which the fabric was fixed, as they often become an obstacle when fixing a new material. Sometimes this process of removing old staples requires a lot of time and effort, but there is nowhere to go.
	This illustration clearly shows the fasteners that connected the main structure with the side of the chair. After unscrewing the bolts, the sidewalls are completely separated from the frame and are set aside for now.
	Now the wheels are removed from the bottom of the frame. If they are in good condition, they can be reinstalled upon completion of the repair. But most often, replacement is still required - it is easy to find the right ones in any furniture fittings store.
	The next step is to remove the trim from the back of the chair back. The work is done with the help of pliers, round-nose pliers, pincers. In this case, the sheathing should not be particularly spared, but the staples must be removed immediately, without leaving them in the wood.
	After removing the skin from the back wall of the back, the plywood parts of the frame are removed from it.
	The back cover is then completely removed. Under it, foam rubber is found, covered with synthetic winterizer or batting. In this case, the manufacturer once used batting. Both the lining and the foam rubber with batting are removed and thrown away, since during the operation a lot of dirt has accumulated in the materials, and the foam rubber has lost its shape. As they say, to change is to change ...
	Spring parts are fixed under the foam rubber on the back. In the example under consideration, they are in quite good condition and, therefore, do not require replacement. In some models, instead of springs, a fiberboard sheet is tritely fixed on the frame. If it is not damaged, it will not have to be changed either.
	During the use of the chair, the spring fasteners have weakened, so they should be tightened. You may need to replace the fasteners, as sometimes the springs in old models of furniture were simply nailed. Nails or old screws should be removed, and a new fastening should be carried out using self-tapping screws, slightly shifting their screwing points or taking fasteners of a slightly larger diameter.
	Then the upholstery is removed from the front lower panel of the chair. At the same time, the staples are also immediately pulled out.
	Now you can proceed to the dismantling of the skin and soft materials from the seat of the chair. It is laid upside down, and the outer upholstery material is removed from it.
	After removing the upholstery fabric, it will be possible to see how worn out the materials are - both the sheathing itself and the foam rubber. It is clear that the wear on the seat is always maximum.
	Under the skin and the layer of foam rubber in this model, the spring part of the structure is fixed to the plywood sheet. This assembly must also be removed from the base.
	The fabric located under the fiberboard panel with springs is also completely removed.
	Next, the upholstery and foam are removed from the sides of the chair. Work is also carried out with the help of wire cutters or tongs. It is very important not to leave staples half-pulled out, as they can injure your hand when performing the following operations.
	In this illustration, the master simply demonstrates what the foam rubber has turned into, which was laid on the armrests. It literally crumbles in the hands, especially since it was originally not a solid fragment, but a gluing of separate pieces.
	After removing the fabric upholstery and soft materials, the decorative wooden parts are dismantled. They must be removed very carefully so as not to break, and at the same time you should remember how they were fixed on the sidewalls. If the parts were fixed on special fasteners that are intact, they should be saved. If the fasteners are damaged, you will have to find a suitable replacement.
	As a result, “clean” sidewalls should remain, without sheathing and fasteners. Sometimes, as in the demonstrated case, the sidewalls consist of two panels - they should also be separated from each other, since they will be sheathed separately.
	Further, sidewall structures also need to be strengthened in places where they have come loose, or where the fixing of parts is a concern. To strengthen the elements, self-tapping screws are used, screwed in with a screwdriver.
	After all the details of the structure are strengthened, you can proceed to the upholstery of the chair with new materials. One layer of strong linen fabric is laid on the bottom frame of the seat and is shot to the base with staples in the corners (using a stapler). A layer of new batting is laid on top of it, and then two more layers of linen material. All layers are shot together along the entire perimeter, while the staples are driven in in increments of 20 ÷ 25 mm. Then the spring structure is installed and fixed. In the central part of the frame, it is fixed to the grate fixed on the frame.
	From above, the springs are closed with the same dense fabric that is aimed at the frame. Then the fabric is sprayed with glue. You can use a special glue for foam rubber - it will turn out the most reliable with it.
	Three layers of batting are laid on the glue, which is also aimed at the frame. Staples are driven in less often here, with a step of about 80 ÷ 100 mm.
	Next, there is another layer of durable fabric, which, after fixing, is sprayed with glue for foam rubber. Such a number of layers is necessary in order to protect the foam rubber sheet from being quickly squeezed by the spring structure.
	Now foam rubber with a thickness of 15 ÷ 20 mm is laid on the created base. Its width should correspond to the width of the seat, and the material is fixed to the lower frame in the front and rear of the structure.
	Next, the main frame of the chair is strengthened. This must be done, since all other structural elements will be fixed to it.
	After the strength of the frame has ceased to be in doubt, you can proceed to the lining of the back with soft materials. First, a batting is laid on top of the springs - its width should correspond to the width of the back. The material is fixed with staples to the wood at the corners and in the middle part of each side of the frame.
	A strong fabric is laid on top of the batting, its edges are bent to the back of the frame frame and shot with staples.
	The next layer is foam rubber. Its sheet should be longer and wider than the back, as it will need to be bent on all sides of the frame.
	Back mounted foam is shown in this illustration. Its fixation was also carried out with the help of staples.
	Next, you can move on to fixing the upholstery on the sides of the chair. To do this, first the surfaces of the armrests are sprayed with special glue. Then foam rubber is laid on the treated places.
	The corners of the material are cut with a sharp knife, with a focus on the rounded shape of the front. It is not necessary to observe the accuracy of the cuts, since the sidewall will still be covered with a solid sheet of foam rubber from above. One longitudinal strip of foam rubber is glued on top for about 2/3 of the width of the armrest. This will provide a smoother arc of the outer foam sheet.
	From the outside, the foam rubber is fixed so that the staples are inside its inversion. After fixing, the material is wrapped around the armrest and is also fixed on the back side of the sidewall with staples. It turns out here is such a neat cylindrical roller.
	Now it's time to cut and sew the chair back cover. To do this, measurements are taken from it - the casing should be freely worn on top of the part upholstered with foam rubber. The dimensions are transferred to the decorative fabric chosen for sheathing. In this case, beige leatherette is selected. The material is drawn from the wrong side.
	In addition to the outer facing material, a synthetic winterizer is used for sewing the cover, as well as a dense fabric. The synthetic winterizer goes immediately under the decorative layer, and behind it is a fabric pad that will adhere to the foam rubber. All three layers are fastened together on the sides. This is necessary so that the materials do not move during stitching.
	Further, on the outside of the decorative layer, a pattern is outlined, according to which the firmware will be made. It should be noted here that for sewing leatherette and a triple layer of materials, you will need a special professional sewing machine, since a regular one may simply not be able to cope with such a thickness and even break through the outer upholstery. If there is none, then it is better to contact a sewing workshop for help.
	After stitching the pattern, the upper corners of the cover are formed - they also need to be sewn. They are sewn together very carefully, as they will be in a prominent place in the chair. Next, the cover is pulled over the back of the chair.
	After that, the bottom of the cover is pulled, wrapped and fixed on the lower end of the frame with brackets. In the same way, the sides of the cover are stretched and fixed - they are aimed at the side racks of the frame.
	The next step is sheathing the front lower panel of the chair, located under the seat. In this case, the master shoots the material by laying it directly on the panel. However, so that the leather substitute does not quickly rub off in the corner areas, it is recommended to lay a “damper” layer of synthetic winterizer or batting under the decorative lining
	Leatherette is wrapped on the back of the panel and is often shot with staples. The illustration clearly shows that the fasteners are driven in literally 5 mm increments.
	The underside of the chair was originally upholstered in fabric. The master decided to strengthen it with a sheet of fiberboard or thin plywood, as it will securely fasten the lower box of the frame together. In addition, less dust from the floor will enter the interior of the seat. On the cut out fragment of fiberboard, the places where the wheels should be installed are marked. Then holes of the required diameter are drilled at these points, corresponding to the legs of the wheels.
	Wheels are installed in the prepared nests and sunk to the full depth with a rubber hammer. It is necessary to hit these parts very carefully so as not to damage them with excessive force. But it’s also not worth making a too free socket for the landing rod of the wheel.
	Further, the bottom panel is screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws installed in 100 mm increments.
	The lower side of the leatherette is stretched onto the bottom panel of the fiberboard, which is lined with the lower front panel. The material is shot to the fiberboard with brackets.
	After that, a sheet of fiberboard cut to size is shot to the back of the back. It will close the upper line of fixing the leatherette.
	Now the back panel also needs to be sheathed with leatherette. If the chair looks neat from all sides, then it can be installed not only against the wall, but also in the middle of the room. The decorative material is turned over and, from the wrong side, is wound under the edge of the fixed fiberboard sheet.
	Then, the material is lowered, leveled and stretched to secure to the sides of the back.
	The illustration shows how the chair already looks at this stage of work.
	According to the method already shown above, a seat cover is sewn, from which dimensions are also taken. The cover is also assembled from three layers - leatherette, synthetic winterizer, dense fabric.
	Before putting a cover on the seat, the previously fixed foam rubber is covered with a layer of batting, which should go on the sides of the structure. Fixing this material is optional.
	A cover sewn from leatherette is put on top of the batting, which will press the cushioning material.
	Then the seat is turned over, the edges of the cover are stretched and wrapped on the underside of the structure. First, the corners of the cover are fixed, and then the staples are driven in around the entire perimeter. The step is also maintained at a minimum, about 5 mm.
	The final step in the seat upholstery is the fastening of a dense linen fabric on its reverse side. The canvas should cover the leatherette fastening line.
	Next, the covers are cut out, sewn and put on the sidewalls of the chair. It will be much more difficult to cut and sew them, since their front and upper parts have rounded shapes. The front part of the cover, located under the rounded armrest, is cut. Then it is pulled together as far as possible. The cut should be hidden by a wooden decorative element. The cover is fixed from the back, front and bottom side of the sidewall, as well as from its front side, immediately under the armrest.
	After facing these elements of the sidewalls, decorative wooden linings are immediately fixed. In different models of chairs, they are fixed in different ways. In this example, they are screwed on with bolts.
	Now you need to veneer the outer panels of the sidewalls. To do this, their surfaces are sprayed with glue for foam rubber. Then bolts are installed in the mounting holes.
	In the next step, the panel is laid with the glued side on a sheet of foam rubber 20 mm thick, so that the bolt heads are hidden under it.
	The foam rubber is cut out along the contour of the panel with an excess of 50 mm in each of their sides - for a fold.
	Then the foam is tucked onto the back of the panel and shot with staples.
	Further, the panel is laid on a leatherette, which is cut out, and then wrapped on the reverse side too so that it completely covers the edge of the foam rubber.
	The finished panel is installed on the previously assembled part of the sidewall. It is designed to close all fasteners and improve the appearance of the chair.
	The result of the work done is shown in this photo. In the same way, the upholstery is mounted on the second side of the chair.
	Now it remains only to install the sidewalls in place and screw them to the lower box of the chair with bolts.
	As a result, the chair received a completely different look, completely incomparable with its original design. Agree that such a chair is quite capable of decorating any interior. And at the same time, it’s hard to even imagine that it was not just bought in a store, but simply restored.

Now, having got an idea about the stages of restoration work, you can try to transform one of the pieces of old furniture, which was preparing to be sent to the country, as completely out of fashion. From the examples presented above, it can be seen that the appearance of the product can be changed beyond recognition. In any case, even in case of failure, the losses will be small - to the dacha, so to the dacha ... Well, if everything works out as planned, then a new piece of furniture appears in the interior, moreover, with minimal costs only for the materials used.

At the end of the publication - another example of giving a "new youth" to an old chair.

Video: Self-restoration of an old chair-bed

Restoration of polished furniture, performed by specialists, is not cheap, so many home craftsmen try to cope with such a difficult task on their own. The main thing is to carry out the restoration in accordance with the recommendations of professionals.

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Refresh dull polish

In the process of use, polished furniture facades lose their former luster. Spots and scratches appear on them, so the furniture becomes dull. To update a polished surface, two methods can be used:

• Furniture restoration in a specialized workshop. Masters perform two types of work: restoration of damaged areas and subsequent polishing. This time-consuming restoration procedure cannot be performed independently without the necessary skills and experience. Specialists remove the top layer of varnish, eliminate all irregularities and dirt, and only after that proceed to polishing. To update the surface in the workshops use a special varnish and sanding paper. The final stage is polishing with wax or polishing paste.
• Do-it-yourself polishing. This procedure must be carried out regularly so that the furniture does not lose its luster. To do this, you will need to purchase special tools that polish furniture at home. We apply a little polish to the surface and rub it thoroughly with a flannel napkin. If for some reason you cannot purchase a special product, you can use linseed oil or white wax.

Polishing is the easiest and most affordable way to update your furniture with your own hands. Constant care and respect will allow you to significantly extend the life of polished products.

How to restore polish

If scratches appear on polished furniture, they can be removed using special or improvised means. The most common options:

1. Rub the damaged area with walnut kernels. After 10 minutes, carefully polish the surface with a cloth.
2. Shoe cream will help to cope with minor damage. You need to choose the right color, carefully apply the composition to the problematic surface and polish with a soft flannel cloth. This defect can also be eliminated with a marker of a suitable color.
3. Scratches on polished furniture are removed using special tools designed to care for furniture.

In the event of a chip, it is necessary first of all to determine the composition of the polishing. It can be traditional varnish, shellac, polyurethane or varnish. The composition is determined experimentally. To do this, you need to drop alcohol on the surface and follow the reaction. Polish or polyurethane will not react to alcohol, shellac will absorb liquid, and varnish will swell. Chip is processed by polishing the desired type. After complete drying, the restored surface is polished with a cloth. Before applying polishing, the chipped area must be carefully sanded.

Painting polished furniture

How to paint polished furniture yourself? You can re-coat the surface with varnish or repaint it in a different color.

Training

Before restoring furniture, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. The first thing to do is to remove the polish from the old furniture. For this you will need:

• special polish remover;
• metal wool;
• sandpaper;
• paper napkins;
• putty knife;
• wide brush.

In the hardware store, you will be offered two types of polish remover:

• thick;
• liquid.

A thick composition is great for a vertical surface, and a liquid one can be used in hard-to-reach places.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Pour the composition from the bottle into any convenient dish. Take a brush and apply the mixture to the surface.
2. The packaging indicates the duration of the composition, after which the top layer becomes soft and can be easily removed with a spatula. Old polishing must be removed only in the direction of the wood fibers. If you are unable to remove all of the polish, repeat the procedure. You can use an old toothbrush to clean hard-to-reach surfaces.
3. We remove the remnants of polishing and thick composition from the surface with metal wool.
4. Apply a thin layer of product to the cleaned surface and wipe with paper towels.
5. We clean the bumps with coarse sandpaper.

When performing restoration work, safety rules must be observed. Removal of polishing should be carried out in a ventilated area. You will also need a respirator and rubber gloves for work.

Primer

After removing the polish, cracks and chips may appear. They can be eliminated with fine-grained putty on wood. The dried mixture is cleaned with sandpaper. If you want to restore furniture with high quality, be sure to apply a primer to the surface. It provides reliable protection against paint peeling.

Painting

The painting process must be carried out carefully and slowly. Make sure that after applying the paint there are no gaps and smudges. Most often, two coats of paint are enough, but sometimes, if the surface is badly damaged, a third coat has to be applied. Do not forget that each next layer can be applied after the previous one dries.

The better the work is done, the better the final result. The most important thing is to choose a good paint. It can be stain, varnish, alkyd paint or acrylic in a spray can.

To restore the painted surface to its former shine, you need to apply several layers of varnish on it. This is a lengthy and laborious process that can take several days.

What do you do with old furniture?

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Restoring old furniture with your own hands is a complex process, but very exciting! How to give new life to loved ones armchairs in which they listened to grandmother's tales. How to make an ancient one sparkle with gentle matte highlights dresser, which contains many "precious" masterpieces - pieces of handmade lace, velvet pieces, from which you can sew a ball gown for a doll or make an exclusive lampshade for floor lamp.

Restoration of old furniture: giving new life to wood

Restoring wooden furniture is a process that requires a thrifty approach and a lot of patience. An old tree can be eaten by worms into dust. But if you want to revive a neat little table with a unique marquetry or a bureau with lots of secret departments, try to get creative.

Wooden furniture is quite durable. But before starting the restoration, it is necessary to carefully remove all the boxes, shake off the dust, remove the places beaten with mold with sandpaper. This applies not only to living rooms and bedroom sets. Restoration kitchen furniture- a process that will bring no less pleasure.

Interior in country style today in a special trend. So don't throw your grandmother's closets in the trash. Remove old paint or varnish. Carefully treat the wood with special compounds that protect against insect pests.

doors kitchen cabinets can be painted with paint and slightly blackened, giving a touch of elegant old age. If the wood is valuable, carefully remove the varnish and cover with a new compound. You can bring the old varnish coating back to life if it has not been touched by mold. There is a wonderful recipe: wax! This is a magical remedy that will revive a tree 1-2 centuries old.

Shimmering velvet that caresses the skin

Restoration of upholstered furniture help bring true masterpieces back to life. An old chair can be thrown into the trash because of the velvet worn to holes and protruding springs. But what if you do otherwise?

Carefully remove the old upholstery. Springs will take longer. But if there is no other option but to throw it away, then do it. Replace the inside with soft, thick foam cut from a pattern. Furniture after restoration is no worse, and even better and more comfortable. The covering can be made of brocade or velvet. The main thing is not to fall out of the time frame of history.

This also applies sofas, canape. Restoration takes a special place leather furniture. The inside can also be replaced with porous foam rubber. But the outer coating can not always be left as expensive. If the leather isn't torn, try carefully putting it on the frame. If you have to completely replace the top cover, do not worry. You can not use new fabrics. Try to find an old tapestry or brocade.

Sometimes mirrors are inserted in the backs of the sofa. If the reflective field has not faded and the amalgam layer is not significantly scratched, simply refresh frame around the mirror. If you need to replace the field itself - do not worry, remove the old mirror information. This is recommended by Feng Shui experts.

New faces for old furniture

Updated furniture after restoration looks very creative and elegant. If you turn on the fantasy at full speed, you can remake cabinets and armchairs beyond recognition. There are several unique technologies: cover the wooden sides with acrylic paint, insert a mirror mosaic, change the fittings. Most importantly, try not to fall out of the general style. Handles and locks should either shine like real gold, or shimmer dully by candlelight.

There is another interesting technology. You can decorate the cabinet doors with bright chintz and varnish. How to paint the side walls by hand? This is not difficult.

• Sand off any old varnish or paint.
• Sand down.

• Apply the pattern with acrylic paint.
• After drying, varnish the surface.

Restoration of furniture at home is an artistic process of spiritual creativity. You can paint with ornaments or floral patterns the doors of the grandmother's closet. There is such an update option: after preparing the surface, plant dried flowers, herbs, petals of fresh flowers on the glue. Then open everything with varnish in 2-3 layers.

You can decorate with mother-of-pearl a chess table that someone threw out as unnecessary. People sometimes don't realize how valuable some items are. You can make a set: a round table with a stone top and a mantelpiece from the same material. It is desirable in the same style to arrange a mirror over fireplace. To do this, you can cut a stone stand separately with built-in permanent candlesticks.

There are many apartments and private houses where furniture made from chipboard is gradually becoming unmarketable. To put a closet, chest of drawers or table in order, it is not at all necessary to contact specialists or change things for new ones if they are familiar and comfortable for the owners of the home.

High-quality furniture restoration is a time-consuming and slow process.

Old furniture can be restored with the help of improvised means available in the house. Additional materials and tools are purchased at any hardware store.

If the need arises, you can turn to specialists, or you can study all the subtleties and do it yourself.

Restoring the appearance of objects from chipboard is a low-cost process. In addition, it has a number of undeniable advantages:

• no need to bring a cabinet or table to the workshop;
• all tools are usually at hand;
• You yourself monitor the progress of work and, if necessary, make adjustments.

When restoring, you do not use the help of expensive specialists, you can estimate the costs and labor yourself. The process develops household ingenuity, and sometimes unites fathers and children if you involve the latter in joint work.

Restoration methods

It is important to understand what material you are dealing with. Wood-resin pressed mixture is the basis of the plate. The easiest way to restore the fresh appearance of chipboard is high-quality painting.

The natural crushed material is mixed with synthetic resins and hot pressed.

Restoration of chipboard furniture by tinting, varnishing and decorating allows you to update the facade and interior surfaces of the piece of furniture. In this form, it will last for a very long time. The main materials for restoration are paints, varnish, sandpaper.

Chipboard (chipboard) is made from shavings of coniferous and deciduous trees.

The second method, which is not too time-consuming, is with the help of a sticky film in natural tones. Glue is not required for it - its base is quite resistant, the film seizes and smoothes over the surface very well.

Materials and tools necessary for work

When working, you will need different materials. In order to disassemble old furniture, you need a screwdriver. Glue is needed only if the surface was previously coated and it has come off. To clean the surface from irregularities, sandpaper and a spatula are needed.

The plate produced in this way is resistant to aggressive environmental influences and has excellent sound and heat insulation properties.

The color update will require:

• aerosols with paint;
• hair dryer;
• brushes;
• rubber gloves.

Before starting the restoration, degrease the plate using a detergent.

Sometimes putties are used for wooden surfaces, since the solid wood can dry out - for further work, small cracks and crevices need to be repaired.

Such restoration of furniture will allow you to get rid of minor scratches and change the annoying shade.

With the help of varnish as a final coating, you can achieve a more spectacular look of the restored item, so its use will be useful.

Materials may vary depending on the scope of work, the vision of the final result and the method of restoration.

If there are significant defects on the surface, it is better to choose a different method.

If inserts from fabric, wallpaper, decoupage napkins, films are supposed, then scissors are needed.

To quickly dry the painted surfaces, you will need a powerful hair dryer - it is better to use a building hair dryer.

Chipboard is a specific material, and it needs to be painted according to a special technique.

Restoration process: step by step instructions

Use the help of household members if they have the skills of restoration work. Maybe they will tell you how to quickly restore chipboard with your own hands.

Prepare the tools and necessary materials - everything should be within walking distance. Since the process is laborious, it is better to carry out work on a weekend.

Before starting work, you should disassemble the furniture.

Painting

Step 1. Carefully disassemble the furniture with a screwdriver .

Step 2 Degrease the surface. Smooth out unevenness and roughness with sandpaper and a spatula. If necessary, putty cracks and cavities. Let the boards dry.

Step 3. Apply evenly toning (prefer acrylic paint) on the surface of the elements using an aerosol. If necessary - in 2-3 layers, arranging breaks for them to dry.

Step 4. Apply varnish and let it dry. Fix it by applying another layer.

The paint will lie evenly if there are no drafts in the room during the drying process.

If you decide to use another method - sticking a film, then the materials are taken quite inexpensively. Glue is not used for this work - the reverse side of the film is sticky.

It is necessary to paint each element separately, this will allow you to work out all the joints more carefully and avoid the formation of streaks.

After drying, all facades must be wiped with a weak solution of vinegar. This treatment will remove the thin film of grease that will prevent the board from bonding to the self-adhesive film.

Step 1. See paragraphs. 1-2 painting instructions.

Step 2. Accurately measure the amount of film. It is better to make a small allowance, as the axles may be uneven. Then it can be removed by carefully cutting with a clerical knife.

Step 3 Level the glued area with force so that there are no air bubbles.

It is better to choose a film in a natural color - shades of wood, light or dark, depending on which one you like best. The advantage of the film is that it can be washed repeatedly - a high-quality coating does not lose color and does not form streaks.

If the furniture has been previously painted, you can remove the paint using special solvents or sandpaper. It will be more difficult to dismantle the coating if the facades are covered

Fine-tuning the product - decoration

Old furniture can not only be updated, but also decorated, giving it an original look. Drawings or ornaments are used as unusual design elements. Use a stencil cut out of thick paper or a file folder to apply the print evenly. You need to apply the paint very carefully so as not to splatter the areas around the ornament. It is better to place it around the perimeter.

In order for furniture restoration to meet expectations, it is necessary to apply the coating carefully, avoiding the formation of gaps and smudges.

A large soft pattern looks good in large central areas or at the bottom. From above, it will "weight" the visual space. You can also use a combination of contrasting colorful elements - plain sides and decoupage parts with floral or thematic patterns.

Do-it-yourself furniture restoration is almost completed, it remains only to bring the new coating to perfection.

You can also decorate chipboard with your own hands using applications from self-adhesive film or fabric.

If a defect was found after drying, the problem area must be processed again with sandpaper and covered with an additional layer of paint.

Carved elements should be introduced into the overall design with care - the plate is very fragile. When carving, it is necessary to use a sharp cutter and emery to clean the recesses. We recommend that you first make a sketch of the future ornament - this way you can evaluate the aesthetics of the future decor.

Often a solid and reliable table is sent to a country house only because its design is hopelessly outdated.

Using wallpaper or patterned fabric can freshen up painted furniture even more. Such inserts look interesting on the facades of side tables and chests of drawers. In this case, glue is needed. The fabric must be chosen waterproof, thin will quickly soak and will look sloppy. This method is suitable for updating furnishings in cottages, apartment kitchens, bedrooms and children's rooms.

But any furniture can be given a second chance, it is enough to modernize its appearance, and external restoration will help in this.

These materials can also be used for decorating internal planes - walls and shelves. It does not require much effort, and the result often exceeds expectations.

When using decorative elements to embellish large items, do not miss the opportunity to bring the same stylish note to the rest of the environment. For example, you can enhance the harmony of colors by covering the seats of old chairs with the same fabric that was used to decorate a cabinet or table.

The main thing is to purchase high-quality materials, carefully study the step-by-step scheme of work and follow all the recommendations.

For finishing items made of chipboard, napkins in the Victorian or Provence style are often used. Pastoral elements perfectly refresh the interior, make it light and bright.

Decoration is also carried out through the use of certain colors - gold, silver, copper. They make the furniture more refined. They can be complemented by spectacular looking craquelure. To do this, you need a special varnish. This method is great for classic interiors, where there is a lot of vintage furniture of an unusual shape.

The easiest way to update a cabinet or table is to simply repaint it.

Small mosaic inserts made of colored glass or plastic, glued to the facade, will give the cabinet or bedside table a new look.

The main thing is to know what material to use and how, and then the restoration of furniture with your own hands will be completed quickly and with excellent results.

Coffee tables look unusual with a "kaleidoscope" of newspaper clippings. For immobility, glue them to the countertop. Arrange them asymmetrically, but maintaining the overall compositional harmony. Then cover with glass or fix with clear varnish in two layers.

The replacement of fittings can also bring a new note to the appearance of furniture. Instead of simple handles, pick up bronze or silver embossed shapes. Or paint them in a different color.

After all, what could be nicer than renovating and decorating your home at no significant cost.

If the furniture has legs, then you can use twine for them, securing it with glue.

An old mirror can be used as an insert in one of the cabinet doors. An oval shape would look better.

But changing your favorite table or wardrobe is not at all necessary, furniture restoration will help, and you can do it yourself.

You should not make the decor too colorful or flashy in contrast. Colors should be harmoniously matched and not annoying with excessive eclecticism.

How to decorate furniture that has lost its former appearance, you need to figure out in advance. There are a great many ideas, so anyone can make an unpresentable look of a cabinet or table winning and stylish, even at home.

With the selection of the right materials and the study of master classes, an updated table or cabinet will delight with its appearance for many years to come.

VIDEO: Restoration and decoration of an old Soviet-era kitchen CABINET