Laying a wooden floor on a concrete base is a common way to create a warm, well-ventilated structure that can serve as a finishing coat when using tongue and groove boards or be an excellent base for a finishing cladding material. At the stage of manufacturing such a floor, the question arises: what is the best way to fix the lag to the concrete floor? This will be discussed in today's material.

Despite the fact that the advantages of creating a flooring with lags rigidly fixed to the base are obvious, there are opponents of this method, who argue that in this way it is possible to damage the integrity and violate the sound insulation of the room due to the formation of acoustic bridges at the places where the fasteners are installed.

If the screed is destroyed during drilling, then this indicates its poor quality and should serve as a signal to dismantle it completely and fill in a new one. A well-made screed does not change its integrity when drilling holes in it with a drill.

Regarding sound insulation: a rigid structure transmits sound waves, but given that insulation material is laid between the lags, which dampens sound, this statement can be considered controversial. In addition, concrete is much denser than wood, and therefore the sound that is transmitted through the acoustic bridge to the concrete base will not reach the neighbors from below.

One of the nuances of wooden flooring along the logs is the possibility of a creak, which becomes audible even to the neighbors below. This occurs when the structural elements (beams, logs and fasteners) are displaced relative to each other. With a rigid fixation of the lag to the concrete base, these troubles can be avoided.

Important! If the logs are not rigidly fixed, and their humidity declared by the seller is not true, then soon, due to the warping process of the wood, the floor structure will begin to deform and shift.

Proponents of the rejection of rigid fastening of the log prefer floating floor structures when the flooring is not fixed to the supporting structures. In this case, it is necessary to carefully approach the choice of lag material. The stability of the floating structure will be given by a special fastening of the bars to each other - in the form of a lattice, in the voids of which insulation material is placed.

1. The process of creating high-quality flooring along the logs depends on the right material. Coniferous wood is most preferable, as it resists moisture better, contains natural antiseptics in its composition, and therefore is resistant to the formation of fungus, and also belongs to durable types of wood.
2. The moisture content of the timber should not exceed 18%. Before laying, the timber must undergo an acclimatization period of several days and get used to the microclimatic conditions in the room where it will be used. If during these days some logs begin to show signs of warping, then they are rejected and not used in the floor construction.
3. Before laying, the logs are treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. It is better to do this before installation, because it is more convenient to process the whole product.
4. It is important to pay attention to the choice of the direction of laying the log relative to the sun's rays - the bars are laid across to ensure their uniform heating. Where the strength of the flooring is important (in rooms with high traffic), the logs are placed across the movement.
5. The distance between the lags is selected in accordance with the thickness of the rough flooring. The larger it is, the greater the distance between the lags (40 - 50 cm). The distance from the wall to the beam should be 2 - 3 cm.

Materials and tools

Work on laying the floor on the logs does not require specialized equipment and tools. You will need to prepare:

1. Perforator drill.
2. Screwdrivers or screwdriver, hammer.
3. Measuring tools - tape measure, level, pencil.
4. Fasteners, depending on the method of fastening.
5. Wood processing in the course of work is carried out using a planer, hacksaw or circular saw.

You will need to purchase waterproofing material, taking into account the overlap on the walls along the perimeter of the room by at least 15–20 cm.

1. You should not take to heart the assurances of lumber sellers that the more expensive and higher the grade of wood, the more reliable and durable the logs made from it will be. For flooring, you can completely do with spruce, fir or pine.
2. You can safely purchase wood of grade B and BC, provided that its moisture content does not exceed 18%. Minor external defects and the shade of the material can be ignored.
3. The main condition is the absence of traces of vital activity of insect pests (bark beetle) and mold on the surface of the wood - even its minimum amount should be a signal to refuse to purchase wood from this batch.
4. The choice of the beam section occurs in accordance with the chosen thickness of the flooring and the upcoming loads.

Mounting methods

There are several of the most common ways of attaching a lag to concrete. Each of them has its own characteristics.

Fastening the lag with self-tapping screws

This method of fixing the lag, although it is the simplest, is not suitable in every case. The process is simple:

1. A hole is drilled in the concrete base for a plastic dowel.
2. A hole for a self-tapping screw is also drilled in a wooden element.
3. The dowel is placed in a concrete hole, hammered, and the log is fixed by immersing the head of the self-tapping screw into the wood body by several millimeters.

The step that is taken when attaching the lag in this way is at least 50 cm.

Table 1. Installation of a wooden floor with a lag fastened to self-tapping screws

Illustration	Description
	Explicit defects on the concrete surface are sealed with mortar or mounting foam.
	The concrete base is dedusted and debris is removed from this surface with a vacuum cleaner.
	The floor is primed with a solution with antiseptic additives.
	Logs are pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
	Logs are laid in increments of 50 cm.
	Plastic wedges are placed under the log and with their help the element is set to the desired height.
	The height of the lag is controlled using a building corner or tape measure and a laser level.
	Drill a hole for the screw.
	Screw in a self-tapping screw.
	The wedges must be fixed in a predetermined position with foam.
	Lay a layer of vapor barrier.
	Fix OSB boards.

Fastening the lag with anchor bolts

Fixing the log with anchors is a durable and reliable method. Additional structural rigidity is provided by pulling the beam to the surface of the base.

The anchor is a more powerful fastener than a dowel, it is able to withstand high loads. When installing such a floor, you can be calm in its reliable fixation to the concrete base. According to the technology of work, fastening a beam to an anchor is similar to fixing to self-tapping screws. Preliminarily, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the base and lags. A hole is made in the wood so that the bolt head can be hidden.

The number of fasteners is calculated taking into account the fact that an average of 4 anchors will be required to fix one beam. The bolt in the locking element, inserted into the hole in the concrete, is carried out through the wood. The length of the anchor bolts varies from 45 to 200 mm. When choosing it, 6 cm is added to the thickness of the timber for penetration into concrete. The recommended anchor bolt diameter is 10 mm.

The popularity of anchoring is due to the more rigid fixation of a wooden structure. With this fastener, you can rely on the containment of wood before the deformation process, if it has not been dried sufficiently.

Table 2. Anchor installation

Illustration	Description
	After the anchors are driven into the concrete base, using a 13 wrench, you will need to stretch each anchor nut to secure it more securely. In this case, do not apply too much force so as not to break the thread.
	After that, a bottom nut is screwed onto each anchor and a washer is installed on which the lag itself will be laid. The nut is installed with the reverse side and screwed in, guided by the markings on the wall.
	Throw a puck on top.
	In the lags, a hole is drilled under the anchor's head and under its body, taking into account the spacing of the anchors.
	The lags are baited on the anchor.
	Screw the top fixing cap of the anchor.
	The nut is tightened in accordance with the level value.
	The excess fastener is cut off with a grinder.
	Insulation is laid in the space between the lags.
	Sheets of plywood are fixed to the lags.

Fastening the lag with the help of corners

If the height of the lag exceeds 10 cm, then metal corners are used for their fastening. The corner shelf is fixed to the concrete base with dowel-nails, and to the log - with self-tapping screws. In this case, the corner is used to fix the position of the wooden element, and the load is distributed to the spacers.

Table 3. Lag installation

Illustration	Description
	Before attaching the corner to the log, drill a hole for the self-tapping screw. For the strength of the connection, the self-tapping screw is immersed in the wood at an angle.
	A hole is drilled in the concrete floor for the dowel.
	The dowel is immersed in the hole and the self-tapping screw is screwed in.
	A beam is introduced under the logs, which will fix the logs at the required height and ensure ventilation of the structure.
	The bars are also fixed with corners to the floor.
	Wooden flooring is made of grooved boards.
	To fix the board at an angle, drill a hole for a self-tapping screw.
	The board is fixed with a self-tapping screw immersed in the groove at an angle of 45 degrees.

Adjustable lags

The adjustable joist system is the simplest way to build a level boardwalk in a concrete basement with a significant height difference. Anchors in this design are replaced by plastic posts, which are attached to concrete with dowels. The convenience of using plastic racks lies in the fact that you can adjust their height and the level of the lag location using special rotating bolts. Excess racks protruding above the surface of the log after adjustment are cut off.

Modern manufacturers offer universal racks that allow you to produce perfectly even plank flooring in a room with a large height difference, regardless of the section of the beams. Installation takes place as follows. The supports are installed on a concrete base.

The logs are laid and, focusing on the level, they set the horizontal plane, adjusting the location of the beams using a special rack mechanism.

Universal racks are equipped with automatic tilt angle correction up to 5%.

He knows that there are several of the most common ways to level the floor in an apartment. And one of them is to use adjustable floors. The use of concrete screed is gradually losing popularity. These works require considerable effort, and also involve the presence of dampness and dirt. Moreover, the installation of adjustable floors will take much less time.

One worker per day is able to independently lay floors on an area of ​​​​up to 20 square meters. m. Next, we will talk in more detail about the advantages, disadvantages and features of the assembly of adjustable floors.

Design features

To understand what adjustable floors are, you need to familiarize yourself with their principle of operation. The studs rotate around their axis, which allows you to adjust the floor level horizontally. Floors on slabs work on the same principle, which also move due to rotation. This allows you to set the floor as accurately as possible. You can level the floor horizontally almost perfectly.

Such structures will not sag under weight or “play” over time. You can install them on any available surface. Several layers of coating (plywood) can be applied to each floor.

Such floors will be an excellent solution for gyms, clubs, offices and so on. By strengthening the bearing studs, the load indicator (up to 2 tons per 1 sq. M) can be increased. The service life of adjustable floors is up to 15 years.

Features of use

Adjustable floors are most often used:

• At stations and premises for the location of servers;
• for final finishing in the shortest possible time;
• In houses of new buildings;
• In houses of old buildings for major repairs or reconstruction;
• To raise the level of the floor to a sufficient level (especially when additional pressure on the main floor is undesirable);
• When installing multi-level floors;
• For carrying out all kinds of communications under the base of the floor.

If you need to level or raise your floors to a significant level, then using adjustable floors is a great solution. After all, it will take you a month to lay a concrete screed, while you can handle adjustable floors in one or two days.

Also, the use of such systems is useful in houses where a distance of up to 15 cm was specially left under the floor for laying communications or insulation. Not all structures will be able to withstand the load of such a layer of concrete. But the use of adjustable floors will help you raise the level of coverage to 20 cm.

You can also successfully, for example, move plumbing (toilet or bathroom) and hide bulky communications not under a thick layer of mortar, but under the floor, where they will remain available at any time.

The use of such systems for country houses or cottages is especially popular. So you are given the opportunity to hide all communications in one place, where they will be reliably protected from exposure and available when needed.

Pros and cons

Like any similar system, it also has its advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages:

• One worker can complete the installation of an adjustable floor within one working day;
• The adjustable floor system is light in itself, so it will not be able to put additional pressure on the main floor;
• International tests confirm the quality, strength and durability of such systems;
• Using adjustable floors, you can additionally isolate the room from the sound from outside;
• You are given the opportunity to use the floor to hide all communications, which is a plus not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also safely collects them in one place;
• Maximum accuracy when setting the horizontal level of the floor;
• Various levels that can be used in parallel (up to 20 cm);
• The materials used for manufacturing are tested for purity;
• It becomes possible to quickly correct floor irregularities, even with a discrepancy of 10-15 cm;

Flaws:

• Adjustable over time. To avoid this, even at the installation stage, it is necessary to remove all dust and dirt after drilling the holes and hammering the dowels. It is best to use a vacuum cleaner for this. Also thoroughly clean the first floor surface before laying the second layer. Check that all dowels and nails are completely driven in. This will not allow the structure to loosen. It is also necessary to take into account that wood is a natural material that breathes and is able to deform under the influence of moisture or gravity. Over time, squeaks, one way or another, will appear;
• If you raise the level of the floor for a long distance, then additional sounds will be heard when walking on it. For example, the sound from women's heels will resemble a beat on a drum. Installing additional soundproofing will help to correct the situation.

All your work depends on the quality of the materials used. Treat their choice with special attention. High-quality timber and plywood will save you from having to dismantle the floor in the future.

For maximum accuracy when setting the floor level, use a laser level.

Take care to provide adequate ventilation under the floor covering.

Types of adjustable floors

Depending on the type of construction, adjustable floors are divided into two groups:

• plates;
• lags.

With the help of adjustable plates, you can raise the floor no more than 3 cm. This is not much, but enough to carry out the necessary communications: telephone, Internet, and so on. You can also lay thermal and sound insulation materials under such floors.

Such structures are sheets of thick plywood (you can use several layers of it). Special bushings are inserted into it. The peculiarity of these bushings is that they already have a special internal thread. An anchor for an adjustable floor is threaded into it, which will serve as a level regulator. Then the whole structure is installed on the base and fixed with dowels.

As already mentioned, the difference between such a system is that the floor level is adjusted directly through the holes in the slab (from plywood or any other suitable material).

To assemble a floor based on adjustable slabs, it is enough to follow our advice:

• Drill holes in the plywood sheet;
• Then insert bushings into them, on which the thread is pre-wound from the inside;
• Insert special bolts into the bushings, which will adjust the level of the plate;
• Fix the bolts to the base;
• Turn the bolts until you achieve a perfectly flat floor plane;
• After that, the remains of the bolts that look out above the surface of the plates must be cut off with a grinder;
• The final stage of the assembly will be the laying of the next layer of plywood, which will hide the traces of the bolts.

Please note that when laying a new floor layer, its seams should not coincide with the seams of the previous one, since this will not make the structure strong.

Adjustable floor joists are the best alternative today. When using this design, the floor will be raised by at least 5 cm. This distance can be successfully used to isolate the room from sound or smells, as well as to lay all the main communications of an apartment or house.

Such designs are distinguished by simplicity and speed of assembly, as well as reliability and durability. The log is equipped with special sockets for installing bolts. It is fixed to a special base with dowels. To change the level of the floor, just rotate the bolt in the desired direction. After the floor plane is completely leveled, a coating is applied to them.

Such floors are often used in new buildings of superior comfort, in which all the main communications are laid under the floor.

The main advantage of such systems is their strong fixation to a wooden or concrete base. Other materials can also serve as a base. For example, threaded anchors can be installed on concrete slabs that are hollow inside, wooden beams using self-tapping screws, as well as on brick surfaces with a concrete screed using special fasteners, or to a wooden floor.

To properly assemble such a structure, read our instructions:

• Special racks (bolts) are installed in the nests in the log;
• Now lay out the logs around the perimeter of the room and inside it. Here it is necessary to take into account the required sagging strength of the structure, which depends on the type of flooring used. For example, the distance between the lags should be about half a meter. If you will use floor tiles, then maintain a distance of no more than 30 cm. To ensure the necessary air circulation, step back one centimeter from the walls;
• Then, through the holes provided in the lags, drill nests in the floor for installing bolts. Their depth should not exceed 4 cm;
• Next, you have to set the floor covering to the required level. Please note that the difference between the sides should not exceed 1 mm. To adjust, use a special key that turns the bolts;
• After setting the floor, hammer in the protruding parts of the dowels or cut them off with a grinder or chisel.

Next is the installation of the flooring. First, use two layers of waterproof plywood. Fasten the first layer with self-tapping screws directly to the joists. The next layer of plywood should be installed with a slight deviation from the first so that the joints do not line up. In the case of floor tiles, it is better to use waterproof drywall as a second layer.

To hide unevenness and gaps between the flooring and walls, use skirting boards. Experts in some cases recommend installing them after all the finishing work.

As you can see, an adjustable stud or slab floor is a pretty good alternative to a conventional concrete screed. Moreover, to install such a structure, you do not need to have special construction skills. You just need to be patient and do everything according to the instructions. If you have ever encountered the problem of installing such systems, share your comments under this article.

The technology, new for many of our compatriots, makes it possible to significantly reduce the time for arranging floor coverings. Like any technology, in addition to its advantages, it also has rather “problematic” characteristics. But this is the professionalism of builders, in order to be able to choose among the numerous options for flooring the one that will be optimal in this particular case.

Finishing floor coverings are installed on wooden logs (in the case of floorboards) or on a solid base of plywood or OSB sheets (in the case of laminate or soft flooring).

A very important point during the construction of any floors is that the bearing surface must be in a strictly horizontal position.

It is very difficult to achieve such a result with the help of fixed logs; it is often necessary to use various wedges or linings to align the spatial position. These wedges may fall out due to improper fixation or due to other reasons, the floors begin to sag and creak. It is impossible to eliminate such problems without dismantling some of the coatings, and dismantling is associated with large losses of time and money.

Do-it-yourself adjustable floors - a diagram of one of the possible options

Adjustable floors allow you to perfectly level surfaces on any uneven ground. In addition, the leveling mechanism makes it possible to adjust the gap between the floor and the supporting base, and this allows you to place various engineering networks in these places.

Adjustable floors consist of plastic bolt-posts or metal studs, floor joists or plywood sheets. There are many modifications of control systems, but there are no fundamental differences between them. With the help of rotation of the threaded connection, a smooth lowering / raising of structural elements occurs, in this way it is possible to accurately set the base of the floors in the required position.

There are several types of adjustable floors, you should familiarize yourself with them in more detail.

Adjustable floor. Kinds

Table. Types and brief characteristics of adjustable floors

Both logs and plates can be regulated. The second option is used only for soft flooring or laminate flooring, the first option can be used for all types of floor finishes.

If desired, you can make adjustable floors yourself, this option has its undeniable advantages. The main ones are significantly lower cost and the ability to select lag parameters depending on the specific features of operation. If desired, the system of adjustable floors allows for floor insulation, which is very important in conditions of high energy prices.

Installation technology of factory adjustable logs on plastic bolts

Initial data. Bearing base - concrete or cement-sand screed, a set of factory-made adjustable logs is used. Let's say right away that this is the most expensive option for adjustable floors.

Step 1. Take measurements of the room to determine the amount of lag. The floors in the bath do not have a large load, the distance between the lags can be increased to 45 centimeters.

Step 2. Beat off the distance between the lags on the screed. To do this, use a rope with blue, with its help the work will be done quickly and efficiently.

Step 3 Cut the lags to the required length. The length of the sold factory logs in most cases is four meters. Think carefully about how you need to lay out the lags to minimize waste. The distance from the cutting line to the nearest adjusting bolt must be at least ten centimeters. If the end is closer, then there are risks of cracking under loads.

Step 4 Spread the logs around the marked lines. For installation, you will need a small drill with a hammer drill, a special wrench for screwing in the bolts, a doboy to fix the dowels, a screwdriver, a chisel and a hammer.

Step 5 Set the first log in a vertical position, screw plastic bolts into the threaded hole. Place the lower ends of the bolts on a line and drill a hole in the concrete base for the dowel. The depth of the holes for the dowel should be 2÷3 centimeters greater than its length. This is due to the fact that a certain amount of concrete always remains in the hole, if you do not make a margin in length, it will prevent you from hammering the dowel completely.

Step 6 Start the dowels, but do not hammer them all the way. The dowel must not interfere with the rotation of the plastic bolts. Using a long level, set the correct position of the lag. If the lag is installed, firmly fix the dowel. Continue to install lags in turn in the marked places, constantly control their position with a level.

Such an installation algorithm is offered by manufacturers, this is what many builders do, who receive wages not from production, but by the hour. The one who works from working out does it differently. How? They take the hydro level and on two opposite walls beat off the zero level of the lag. Then they drive in carnations or dowels in these places (depending on the material used to make the walls) and pull the ropes. The ropes are stretched so that they are at the ends of the lag. If the length of the room is not more than the length of the lag, then two ropes will be needed. If the logs had to be connected, then three. The rope is pulled only after the lags are already placed at the fixation points.

Then everything is simple and fast. Each lag is installed along the rope, it should not touch it, you need to check that the gap between the rope and the lag is minimal. That's all, in this way you will be able not only to significantly increase the speed of installation of an adjustable floor, but also significantly improve its quality.

There is a direct relationship between accuracy and the number of measured planes. What is meant? It is highly likely that the position of the first lag deviated from the desired level by one millimeter. It's a little, everything is fine. But the fact is that the following checks will be done taking into account this deviation, again there is a possibility of an error in a millimeter, and so on increasing. It is for this purpose that a template is made if you need to cut off a large number of identical parts, and do not take dimensions from each finished part in turn. In this case, the rope acts as a template.

Step 7. Rebuild with a wide chisel, cut off the protruding part of the plastic bolt.

Floor on plastic bolts - check

Prices for plastic bolts

plastic bolts

Video - Adjustable floor installation technology

The main advantage of such floors is that the fastening stability is significantly increased due to the increase in the area of ​​the lower stop. The disadvantage is that the terms increase, the inability to do the work on their own.

The lags are fixed to the U-shaped plates using self-tapping screws, the height adjustment of the lag is carried out using a series of vertically located holes on both sides of the plate.

Step 1. Using a blue rope, mark the locations of the genital lags. Calculate the required amount of material and additional structures.

Step 2. Determine the level of the floor, make marks on the walls. Arrange metal plates and logs along the lines. The width of the plates must match the lag tire. The distance between the plates depends on the parameters of the lag, forty centimeters are enough for a bath.

Step 3. Fix the plates to the concrete base with dowels. Hammer the dowels immediately to the stop, then it is very difficult to pull them up - the lag lies on top and prevents access to it. If during fixing the metal plates moved a little, it's okay. When installing the logs, slightly bend their side parts in the right direction.

Bracket fixation

Step 4 Take the first log, put its ends in the right position. In this position, attach the log to the side surfaces of the U-shaped plates, use wood screws to fix it. Now you can fix the plates located in the middle of the log. But for this, constantly check the horizontal position, the lag bends a little under its own weight. If you want to do the work faster and better, then use the ropes to set the horizontal level. How this is done is described above. Make sure that the screws do not split the logs, choose them according to size, screw them in at a slight downward slope.

Step 5 After installing all the logs, you need to cut off the protruding parts of the plates with a grinder. Doing this is quite inconvenient. But, despite the “difficult” cutting conditions, try to minimally damage the wooden logs with the disc.

Installing a lag on metal studs

Adjustable floors of this type can be made independently, we will talk about this option. Select the dimensions of the log, taking into account the characteristics of the floor and maximum loads. Zinc coated metal studs, recommended diameter 6÷8 mm. To assemble the structure, you will need studs, nuts and washers.

Step 1. Beat off parallel lines on the supporting base at a distance of 30 ÷ 50 cm. The greater the distance, the more powerful the lags you need to choose.

Step 2 Make a calculation by the number of logs, studs, washers and nuts. The recommended distance between the studs is 30 ÷ 40 centimeters. Prepare all materials, additional elements and tools for the production of work.

Step 3. Mark the holes in the lags for the studs, they should all lie on the line of symmetry. In the marked places, first drill a through hole Ø6 mm for the stud (if the diameter of the stud is different, then the hole must be drilled accordingly). On the front side of the log, drill a hole for the diameter of the washer with a pen drill. The depth of the hole should be several millimeters greater than the sum of the height of the nut and the thickness of the washer.

Step 4 Lay each lag in turn on the broken parallel lines on the concrete screed. Very carefully, in turn, for each lag, make marks for future installation sites for anchor threaded elements. Make sure that the lag does not move. For marks, use a drill or an ordinary pencil. For a drill, you need to take a drill with a victorious soldering. The places are marked - take away the log and drill holes in the concrete. The dimensions of the hole must match the dimensions of the anchors.

There is a second way to mark the holes for the anchor, it takes more time, but it completely eliminates the possibility of errors. It is done like this. First, you need to mark only the two extreme holes for the anchor, screw the studs into them on two nuts and fix the log in the desired position. Now, during further marking, the lag will not move anywhere. In this position, you can immediately drill holes for the anchor to the full depth. The work is done - the lag is removed, all the studs are screwed into place. Such a procedure will have to be performed with each lag, labor productivity decreases two times. But you yourself must make the final decision on the method of marking, taking into account the condition of the concrete base of the floor and your experience in performing this kind of work.

Step 5 Place a nut on each stud and a washer. It is advisable to immediately approximately determine the location of their location in height, this will speed up the work. Screw the studs into the anchors firmly. To do this, you can use a special locksmith fixture or other simple methods. You can buy studs that have holes at the end for a plug-in barb or a hexagon for an open-end wrench, but they cost much more than ordinary ones.

Video - How to twist hairpins

Step 6. Put the logs on the studs one by one, with a wrench of the appropriate size, by turning the lower nut to the left / right, align the position of the log. How this is done, we have already told. Keep in mind that metal nuts have a much smaller thread pitch than plastic nuts. In some cases, it will take a long time to turn, which is tiring. Moreover, the position will be uncomfortable: you will have to sit on your knees, and bring the key from below the lag.

Step 7 The lags are set - you can start fixing them. Use a washer and nut, insert them into the top hole.

Important! Tighten the top nut with great force, even a slight loosening can cause very unpleasant squeaks while walking on the floor.

Step 8 Cut off the protruding ends of the studs with a grinder. Be careful with lags, do not damage the integrity of the lumber with a saw blade.

Installing floors with leveling plywood

Such a subfloor is suitable only for laminate or soft floor coverings. For installation, you need to buy a set of factory-made elements, the work is more difficult to perform.

Step 1. Mark on the plywood sheet the installation locations of the bushings, drill holes of a given diameter. The bushings should be evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sheet, the distance between them is not more than thirty centimeters. Drill holes vertically, if the edges are at an angle, you will have to re-drill them. This takes time and significantly increases the installation time of the adjustable floor.

Photo - drilling a hole in plywood

Step 2. Insert the threaded bushings into the holes from the bottom side, fasten them with small self-tapping screws, they should not turn during the adjustment of the floor height. Manufacturers provide four places for fixing the bushings, so many are not needed, it is enough to fix it with two self-tapping screws.

Step 3. Make markings on the floor, try so that the sheets do not have to be “shredded” into small pieces. Markup is a plan for cutting sheets. It is advisable to draw it on paper, think over several options, and only then it will be possible to choose the best one from them.

Step 4 Screw in all the plastic bolts, turn the plywood sheet in the desired position. Screw in the bolts the same number of turns. After installing the first sheet of plywood, note at what level the bolts are located. In the next sheet of plywood, try to screw the bolts in the same position.

Step 5 Using a special wrench, screw in / unscrew the bolts until the plywood sheet is in a strictly horizontal position at the required height. Constantly check its position with a level in several planes. Very important! All bolts must have a slight tension, otherwise the plywood will sag. The work is quite difficult, do not make plywood sheets large. You must reach each bolt from the concrete floor. It is very difficult to adjust the position of the plywood sheet and at the same time be on it.

Keep in mind that the fasteners to the concrete base are not fixed, the floor turns out to be “floating”. This factor should be taken into account when deciding on the arrangement of floor coverings in each particular room.

Step 6 After installing the last plywood sheet, check the position of the subfloor again. Remember that the adjustment parameters do not exceed 2÷3 centimeters. If the concrete base has too large irregularities, then you will have to level it first. Plywood should only be waterproof.

Do not use chipboard, OSB, or other materials in place of heavy-duty plywood, although some manufacturers recommend such. Pressed materials react very poorly to point multidirectional forces, in these places they quickly lose their original bearing capacity. Namely, such loads are present in the places of adjustment of the plates. Let plywood cost much more, its price will pay off during the operation of the floor.

Prices for anchors for sheet materials

anchors for sheet materials

1. Do not forget to leave gaps 1÷2 centimeters wide around the perimeter of the room near the walls for natural ventilation and compensation for the expansion of wooden structures. These gaps are then closed with skirting boards and become invisible.

   

2. For logs, choose only high-quality lumber with a minimum number of knots. Large cracks, visible fungal diseases and mold infestations are not allowed.

   

3. Do not drill holes for studs on knots, it is better to move them a few centimeters. The fact is that wood in the event of a violation of the integrity of a healthy knot significantly loses its strength. The device of adjustable floors assumes the presence of efforts not over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe log, but only at several points. This feature requires increased strength indicators from wood. This remark also applies to the bearing base of the floor, point forces also act on it, the load per square millimeter increases significantly. Accordingly, concrete must be strong, it is not allowed to deviate from existing building standards during its manufacture. Any deviations in strength will lead to the fact that over time, under the stops, the base will be destroyed, the floors will begin to sag and, as a result, it is very unpleasant to creak. It is impossible to eliminate these sounds without dismantling the entire structure.

   

4. The higher the level of the adjustable floor above the ceiling, the more it "sounds". To reduce the noise level, it is recommended to use pressed mineral wool. At the same time, it will insulate the floor.

   

And the main advice in conclusion. Use adjustable floor options only as a last resort. Practice shows that the number of disadvantages of such structures exceeds the number of advantages. The cost of only adjustable logs can exceed the total cost of flooring made in the usual traditional way. Decide what to do faster: immediately put a few lags or drill dozens of holes in them and then “screw” them in the sweat of your brow with bolts and nuts.

Video - How to make an adjustable floor

Until recently, no one had heard of adjustable floors, they could only smile when they heard such a phrase. However, today everyone is talking about them, studying and even trying to install them without involving expensive hired workers.

We will lift the veil of secrecy for all those who have never heard of this type of flooring by providing the necessary information in this article and tell you how to make adjustable floors.

Benefits of Adjustable Coatings

The device of adjustable floors has recently become widespread in construction, especially in the reconstruction or repair of old housing constructions.

The adjustable floor system has gained such popularity because:

• Having a small weight, it can be used for ceilings with a low bearing capacity. Installation of an adjustable floor allows you to raise the level of coverage to the desired level, without erecting a heavy concrete or house.
• Due to its perfectly flat surface, it is suitable as a base for almost any type of finish, whether it is parquet, laminate, linoleum or ceramic tiles. In this case, no additional procedures for arranging the surface are necessary.

Note!
These are just the main advantages that this type of floor is famous for; in terms of technical indicators, it is also a level above all available options.

Why Choose Self-Leveling Floors

The following should also be added to the main advantages of this type of floor device:

• Self-adjusting floors are easy to make with your own hands. One person can quite cope with the work in a room of 20-25 m2 in one day.
• The absence of "wet" processes saves you from dust and dirt and significantly reduces the repair time. You do not need to wait until the base dries to proceed to the next stage of work.
• In the underground space of such a system, the following are possible:
  
  • Device for additional hydro, sound and heat insulation.
  • Laying of engineering communications.
  • Underfloor heating equipment, both water and electric.

• Since the wooden joists are located above the base of the floor (not on the concrete itself), the lumber is protected from rotting and decay.

Note!
However, this does not mean that the material should not be treated with antiseptics.

• High strength and sound insulation.
• Subject to the technology of work, a self-regulating warm floor of an apartment or house will serve you up to 50 years.

Types of adjustable floors

Features of the technology of the device of self-regulating floors divide them into two types:

• Adjustable legs.
• Adjustable plates.

Let's talk about how to make an adjustable floor on the logs.

In fact, the installation of adjustable floors can be divided into two stages:

• Adjustable log device.
• Draft flooring.

Advice!
The material for flooring on adjustable joists should be selected based on the type of final coating.
Plywood is suitable for laminate or parquet.
If it is planned to cover with ceramic tiles or linoleum, it is better to use sheets of moisture-resistant drywall, DSP or similar materials.
For those who want to arrange wooden floors, a euroboard (dry, planed and tongue-and-groove) is useful.

Let's proceed directly to the work on the installation of self-regulating floors on logs.

There are also two options here:

• Adjustable heeled floor.
• The same, only on the corners.

In principle, both options are performed according to the same principle and differ only in the mechanism for regulating the lag. Let us describe in more detail the arrangement of the floor on adjustable logs with the help of studs.

For work you will need the following materials:

• High-quality, dry, planed timber with a section of 50x50 mm without knots.
• Regulation mechanisms (list for one set):
  • Hairpin M6.
  • Two pucks.
  • Two nuts.
  • Anchor for adjustable floor.

Note!
You can purchase ready-made sets of adjustable floor, which include both regulation mechanisms and a beam prepared for assembly.
Naturally, this will increase the final cost of adjustable floors.

money question

Estimated price for an adjustable floor device is 20-25 dollars per square meter. It should be noted that the cost of such a floor system for further tiling will be much more expensive than for laminate flooring. This is due to the fact that a greater number of logs are laid under the tile.

If you want to save money, all components for adjustable floors can be purchased in discord at any hardware or hardware store, and you can do the work yourself.

The installation process of adjustable logs

To perform work on the installation of a self-regulating floor, you need:

• Building level (great if you own laser equipment, but you can get by with ordinary ones).
• Hole drilling technique with concrete and wood drills plus spade bit.
• A hammer.
• Hacksaw or angle grinder (available for rent at a hardware store).

Now directly instructions for installing floors with adjustable lags:

• We lay out the bars on the base with a step of 30 cm (for subsequent coating with ceramic tiles) and 50 cm (for parquet and laminate). Required indentation from the walls, but not more than 2-3 cm.
• We drill holes for the stud in the bars at a distance of 50 cm from each other, with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the stud. Most often, a stud with a diameter of 6 mm is used, and under an 8 mm anchor we drill holes of the same diameter.
• Next, you should perform counterboring of the lag, that is, select a piece of wood at each hole with a depth equal to the thickness of the nut along with the washer with a feather drill. The diameter of the sample should exceed the diameter of the washer by 1-2 mm. This is necessary in order to drown the nut with the washer flush with the top of the log.
• After that, using a drill or puncher, we drill holes for the anchor in concrete.

Advice!
It is better to do this directly through the holes in the bars, then there is a chance to minimize the possible mismatch of the stud with the prepared hole.
If, when drilling, you get into the void of concrete or reinforcement, you should change the position of the stud.

• We hammer the anchors into the floor carefully, but firmly, and screw the studs. We screw the nuts onto the studs at about the same level and put on the washer, which will serve as support for the timber.
• After installing all the studs, we impose a log. We put washers and nuts on top of the beam, without tightening them to the end (only bait).

• At this stage, you should set the log to the desired position by adjusting it with a level. Adjustment is carried out with the two lower extreme nuts. Then we turn the nuts on the remaining studs and tighten the upper nuts.
• The remaining lags are installed in a similar way. The main task at this stage is to set all the lags so that their upper part is on the same level.
• After aligning and fixing all the logs, we cut off the bolts for adjustable floors (unnecessary surplus) with a grinder or a hacksaw.
• The third stage is filling the underground space with insulation, hydro and noise insulation, laying the necessary communications.

• The final stage is the laying of a rough floor covering with fixing with self-tapping screws.

This completes the process of installing a self-regulating floor. Then you can proceed to the final coating of your choice.

There is no fundamental difference in the technology of mounting adjustable logs on the corners, except that the regulating mechanism here is not a stud. With this method, the bars are not attached to the studs, but to the corners, rigidly fixed to the base of the floor.

Briefly, the process is as follows:

• We lay out the bars and mark their location on the base of the floor.
• According to these marks, we fix the corners in increments of 50 cm. The height of the corner is selected according to the required floor level (slightly less than this value).
• Next, using the level, set the lags.

Advice!
To stiffen the lags, the corners are fixed on both sides in a checkerboard pattern.

• Then, as in the previous method, we mount the flooring, taking into account the nature of the further finishing.

Another feature when using corners is the need to accurately set the log in terms of level without possible adjustment after completion of work. Therefore, if the adjustable floor lies initially at an angle, then it will be possible to get rid of irregularities only with the help of linings under the finish coating.

As for fasteners, you should not buy non-galvanized screws and bolts, high humidity can greatly affect their strength, which will affect the entire surface.

And finally, I would like to say that it is worth paying special attention to the locations of anchors or self-tapping screws under the corners. If the fastener is located next to the knot, then this is a high risk that soon (under loads) the lag will crack in this place. Try to place the fasteners in clean and level places, with a step of no more than 60 cm.

Conclusion

See the video in this article for more information on this topic." width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen">

Conclusion

By itself, the process of installing an adjustable floor, as you understand, is not difficult, all the work may be familiar to many. Your biggest concern should be the quality of the building materials used in this process. This is not worth saving, as in the future you will have to invest in repairs.

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

The technology of adjustable floors appeared on the market relatively recently, but has already gained popularity among builders, and good reviews from users. Why? The answer is simple - it has a lot of advantages. Among them are the following:

• high flooring speed. One person can design up to 20 sq.m. in a day;
• achieving the desired floor height without additional material costs;
• the possibility of creating a multi-level structure;
• almost perfect leveling accuracy. Tolerance 1 mm. per 1 p.m. gender;
• reducing the load on the supporting structure. At the same time, the permissible load on the logs is up to three tons. This significantly exceeds the possible load not only in residential, but also in industrial premises;
• eliminating the need to carry out a "wet" screed;
• good ventilation and soundproofing characteristics of the floor;
• opportunity to equip underfloor heating under plywood;
• environmentally friendly, time-tested materials;
• the ability to hide the wiring of electrical networks, hide pipes and at the same time provide free access to them if necessary.

To be fair, we note limitations:

• the possibility of a squeak. In the event that construction debris has fallen into the attachment points. It, even at the installation stage, must be removed with a vacuum cleaner. At the same time, it should be taken into account that wood is a “living” material, it deforms over time. So get ready;
• the possibility of "sounding" the floor. If the floor is raised too high - the emptiness under it will accompany you with a booming echo with every step. This shortcoming can be easily eliminated by applying heat-insulating materials.

However, as you can see, the advantages of an adjustable floor are much greater and getting them is quite simple. The technology is so accessible that building adjustable floor can do it yourself and no professional training. And this instruction We hope this will help you.

Before starting work, you need to decide on the design of the floor, as well as prepare tools and materials. But first things first:

Design

• floors adjustable by slabs. Provide lifting height up to 5 cm;
• floors adjustable by joists. Provide a lift height of over 5 cm.

In practice, both are used. But the first ones were the most popular. However, despite the different allowable lifting heights, the technology of their construction does not differ significantly.

Tool

The minimum tool that you will need to work on the construction of an adjustable floor consists of:

• perforator;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• circular saw;
• jigsaw;
• chisels;
• building level;
• roulettes;
• consumables, such as drills, discs, jigsaw files, drills.

Material

The amount of material depends on the size of the floor. But, for understanding, we will calculate the amount of materials for 5 sq.m.

For slab adjustable floors you will need:

• plywood - 5 or 10 sq.m. Depends on the required number of decking layers;
• self-tapping screw 3.5x35 - 150 pcs. For fastening plywood layers together;
• threaded bushings - at least 20 pieces. They will play the role of wooden logs;
• dowel-screw 6x60 - 35 pcs. For fastening the lag to a concrete base.

To arrange the floors on the logs, you will need: timber, section 45x45 - 14 m.p.;

• plywood or osb on the floor - 5 sq.m. or 10 sq.m. - if double decking is planned. When calculating plywood, you need to add 5% for waste. Then, round up the amount of material to whole sheets;
• dowel-screw 6x60 - 35 pcs;
• wear-resistant polymer bolt 100 or 150 mm - 20 pcs. To adjust the height of the surface;
• self-tapping screw 3.5x45 - 150 pcs. For laying the first layer of plywood on logs;
• self-tapping screw 3.5x35 - 150 pcs. For laying the second layer of plywood on the logs;

Features of the choice of timber

As a log, a dried beam made of pine wood can be used.

Features of the choice of material

An important point is to choose the right material. Professionals recommend giving preference to plywood. This option can provide simultaneous floor insulation with plywood. To form one layer - the thickness of the sheet must be at least 18 mm. If there are two layers, it is permissible to use sheets with a thickness of at least 12 mm.

In work, it is permissible to use plywood grade 3/4. But the requirements for moisture resistance must be met. Permissible humidity is not more than 12%. What is achieved by using plywood brand FSF or FK.

Mounting technology

Consider two options

Option 1 - Floors adjustable by slabs

Such a floor is equipped if the surface is characterized by slight deviations from the level. And the ceiling is low. Those. there is a need to save every centimeter of height.

The installation process in this case is simple and consists of the following steps:

1. Cut plywood sheets into the required pieces. Lay them out on the floor and label them. In order to know exactly where which sheet will be located in the future.

2. Holes of the required diameter are drilled in plywood sheets. Bushings are inserted into them.

3. Sheets of the first level are laid on the floor surface

4. Sheets are attached to the floor with dowels.

5. Using the key, the floor height is adjusted by twisting the threaded bushings.

6. Be sure to use the building level.

7. All protruding parts (threaded bushings) must be cut off.

8. If a second layer of plywood is provided, it is laid on top of the first one and fixed with self-tapping screws.

When laying the second layer, it is important to follow the sequence of laying sheets. And ensure that there is no construction debris between them. To do this, the surface must be vacuumed.

The seams of the previous layer should not coincide with the seams of the next. Figuratively speaking, they should be placed like bricks, overlapping each other.

9. Flooring is laid.

Option 2 - Floors adjustable by joists

1. Drill holes in the log beam. The distance between them should be within 300-450 mm. The higher the load is planned on the floor, the more often the logs should be drilled.

2. The arrangement of the lag begins with the ends that are attached to the floor. Then the middle of the beam is attached. It is important not to immediately tighten the bolts to the end in order to be able to adjust them.

Please note that the control device can be made independently. For this you will need:

• metal plate;
• hairpin;
• driving anchor;
• two nuts and washers;

3. Logs are set according to the level.

4. The height of the floor is adjusted by tightening the bolts.

5. The protruding heads of the bolts are removed with a chisel.

6. Sheets of plywood are attached to the logs. The mounting method is similar to that described in the first version of the adjustable floor arrangement.

Conclusion

This approach to arranging floors is becoming more and more popular. This is due to the ease of installation, the relative cheapness of materials, the ability to do everything quickly and without the involvement of expensive professionals.

2 000 rub