Wall decoration with plastic panels is now very popular. But before deciding to choose this particular option, it is worth studying information about the properties of the material and the technology for its use. At first glance, you can find a lot of information about this finish, but often it is distorted or presented in a form that is inconvenient to read. For this reason, the choice of the source of information should be taken carefully.

Plastic as a material

Wall decoration with plastic panels has its advantages and disadvantages. They must be taken into account when making the final decision. Finishing material has the following advantages:

• Absolute harmlessness. Many are afraid of plastic due to the fact that it is not a natural material. Modern technologies that allow the production of harmless products are simpler and cheaper than the old ones. For this reason, it is extremely difficult to find dangerous material even among fakes.
• Wall panels for interior decoration are very beautiful. There are many options for colors and textures. In addition, manufacturers are releasing new seamless options that are very different from the usual office panels. You can choose a wood finish, plain, color. Photo printing is also applied to the coating.
• Ability to use in tight spaces. Plastic panels for interior decoration are perfect for various niches and other corners of an apartment or house where it is inconvenient to work with other materials.
• Panels are easily mounted together with ventilation grilles, sockets. On any color, these elements look natural and are not striking.
• Plastic is perfect for finishing the bathroom and other wet areas. Wall and ceiling decoration is durable, does not require complex maintenance, can be operated at low temperatures (for example, on an uninsulated balcony).

The disadvantages include the following negative points:

• Flammability. The material is difficult to set on fire, but when exposed to fire, it supports combustion and releases a large amount of gases dangerous to humans.
• Panels do not breathe. They completely block the movement of air through the walls, which is necessary to ensure normal ventilation. Due to this property, the type of finish is not recommended for use in the bedroom and children's room.
• Insects can settle in the voids of the panels. This problem is especially relevant for the southern regions.
• The need to use a special tool for cutting and certain skills during installation.
• Do-it-yourself wall decoration with PVC panels requires careful preparation of the base.

Having considered all the advantages and disadvantages of the material, you should calmly make an informed decision about the possibility of using this type of finish.

What tools will be required

It is worth preparing for working with PVC panels. First of all, you need to find a special tool:

• Circular Saw. If it is not possible to find it, you can use a jigsaw. The file or disk should be fine-toothed (“clean cut”). It is preferable to use a saw. The jigsaw file is highly flexible, so the cut can turn out to be wavy.
• Jigsaw chute with 45 and 90 degree angles.
• Construction stapler when sheathing on a wooden crate.
• Rubber mallet with hook rule. The same tool is used for installing laminate. Needed to "pull out" jammed panels. By doing this by hand, you can easily damage the panel or crate.
• Plaster spatula, which is used to bend the finishing profile when installing the last plank. Spatula length 80-120 cm.

Also, when performing work, you will need:

• pencil and tape measure;
• building level;
• square;
• fasteners (self-tapping screws, dowel-nails, clamps);
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• sealant;
• antiseptic.

Installation of plastic panels for wall decoration

Plastic can perfectly replace wooden decorative elements and other finishes. But it must be fixed in strict accordance with the technology. Decorative wall panels will help make your home cozy and beautiful.

Finishing the walls in the bathroom and other rooms, as well as the ceiling with plastic panels, is carried out in the following order:

1. ground preparation;
2. markup;
3. crate device;
4. installation of start and finish profiles;
5. installation of all other strips;
6. facing of slopes;
7. fixing skirting boards.

Foundation preparation

Work with plastic begins with the removal of the old coating. In order for the finish coat to have an attractive appearance without distortions and other troubles, you will need to carefully close up all the cracks in the walls and ceilings, and eliminate irregularities.

markup

Before finishing the room, it is necessary to determine the location of the racks of the frame. Finishing with plastic panels of ceilings and walls provides for marking in the following order:

1. Mark a point at a distance of 1-2 cm from the level of the floor or walls. Through this point draw a line around the perimeter. For marking accuracy, a building level is used.
2. When marking the walls, the same line must be drawn under the ceiling.
3. From the bottom line with a step of 40-50 cm, parallel lines are drawn to the entire height.

This marking is suitable for mounting panels vertically. The cladding is always fixed perpendicular to the frame, therefore, if necessary, arrange the cladding elements horizontally, perform vertical markings.

Lathing device

Most often, wood is used as a crate for panels for interior wall decoration. In this case, the slats must be pre-treated with an antiseptic composition to protect against destruction. Holes for fasteners with a distance of 50 cm are made along the marking lines using a puncher. The frame rails are fixed to the wall. If it is necessary to lay wiring under the finish, this must be taken into account at this stage:

1. provide fasteners for wires;
2. check that they do not protrude beyond the plane of the crate.

When using a metal C-profile as a crate, you need to additionally buy elements for fasteners. They are usually sold as a set. The metal is fixed to the base with self-tapping screws in dowels. All work must be carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

To increase the thermal insulation or sound insulation of the walls, special mats can be laid between the frame rails. They are fixed depending on the type of material used. For different types, it can be used both for mounting on dowels and for adhesive composition.

Lamella fastening

The first plastic bar needs to be fixed in the most illuminated and noticeable corner. Most often, this becomes the one that is located opposite the entrance to the room. Take measurements using a tape measure. The panel is cut to the required length with a special tool (usually a circular saw).

One edge of the plank is inserted into a special side molding. This element is designed to ensure mutual fastening of panels that are located on opposite sides of the corner. An element with a molding is applied to the corner and fixed to the crate from the back.

Next, you need to connect the first panel to the second. For this, the tongue-and-groove system is again used. The joint is pressed tightly and the bar is fixed to a wooden or metal frame. All subsequent elements are mounted using the same technology. To guarantee maximum tightness of the joints, it is recommended to grease the side edges with silicone before installing the panel. When installing the last part, it is worth checking whether it fits in width. If necessary, the element is trimmed in width. The last panel is not fixed to the crate. It must be snapped onto the finishing element. If necessary, all joints are treated with silicone (sealant).

To complete the installation, you need to install accessories. Such elements include skirting boards and their plugs, corner elements. The latter are bought together with the panels and glow over them.

To make holes for switches and sockets, use a sharp knife. They cut holes of the required size.

Mounting panels with glue

If necessary, finishing elements can be fixed directly to the wall without the use of crates. In this case, increased requirements are imposed on the base. It will take more time to prepare it, since the surface must be perfectly flat.

Before starting work, they acquire a special glue. It is allowed to use liquid nails for installation. It is important to check the composition of the substance in the store. It should not contain solvents that destroy plastic elements.

The work is performed in the following order:

1. cleaning the base from the old lining;
2. treatment with antibacterial putty or a layer of primer, which contains components that can protect against mold and mildew;
3. drying the base;
4. preparation of the adhesive composition in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions on the package;
5. the choice of a working tool is carried out depending on the consistency of the glue: roller, brush, spatula;
6. work begins with corner elements;
7. glue is applied at a time to a small area (equal to about 1-panels) so that it does not have time to dry;
8. a corner piece is fixed, to which an ordinary element is mounted with the help of grooves;
9. the panels are pressed against the wall with their hands for a short time, during which the adhesive solution has time to grab;
10. mount all other panels;
11. install decorative elements, coat the seams with silicone sealant.

In addition to mounting on glue and on the crate, there are several more methods that are used by professional workers. But they are not widely used. In conclusion, a few general tips can be given:

• The panels are recommended for finishing balconies, loggias, bathrooms, hallways and living rooms. For bedrooms and nurseries, you should pay attention to more breathable materials.
• It is best to use seamless plastic in rooms with air conditioning or a forced ventilation system.
• In the bedroom for adults, it is permissible to use material for individual sections of the walls.
• It is unacceptable to use items in the kitchen. In this case, grease and other substances will settle on the surface of the panels, which will become an excellent breeding ground for bacteria.

A strong and even crate for plastic panels is a must for such a ceiling or wall finish. There are several options for arranging a reliable frame for PVC panels, and each of the installation methods is quite doable on our own.

PVC plastic panels - characteristics of the finishing material

PVC panels have an impressive range of repair benefits:

• Unsurpassed lightness - a square meter of plastic cladding weighs less than 1 kilogram. This allows you to finish with plastic the so-called "weak" walls and ceilings that cannot withstand heavy loads;
• Economic cost. Ceiling or wall plastic is an order of magnitude (that is, ten times!) Cheaper than marble, natural stone or high-quality ceramic tiles;
• High moisture resistance, including to saturated and red-hot steam. However, it must be taken into account that plastic does not become an obstacle to moisture - it is inert toH 2 O, but only. If necessary, to protect the walls and ceiling from the effects of water, it is impossible to do without preliminary waterproofing;
• Labor-intensive alignment of walls and ceiling is not required, this function is performed by a correctly installed crate for PVC panels;
• Easy to sanitize and durable plastic trim for decades;
• Large selection of colors and sizes. If desired, you can choose such panels that installation costs will be minimal.

A serious drawback of wall and ceiling plastic is its combustibility. This is especially important when renovating toilets and other small rooms. Fire of polyvinyl chloride in a small enclosed space with dangerously toxic combustion products, a person can suffocate in just a few minutes. In addition, wall plastic narrows the size of the room - at least a few centimeters on each side. If the wall is uneven, then the room will decrease even more.

The quality of the installation of plastic panels almost entirely depends on the quality of the crate. An ill-conceived or poorly assembled frame cannot be sheathed with PVC panels - such a design should be completely redone.

Most often, the frame is mounted from ordinary wooden slats, due to the ease of installation and the low cost of wood. More non-trivial options for the crate are also possible, but they are relevant in exceptional cases (see below).

How to make a crate for PVC panels from wooden slats?

For the inner frame of wood, slats with a cross section of 20x20 mm are selected, this is the minimum. It is important that the slats are straight and even, without knots and cracks. It is quite difficult to remove a broken element from the frame and replace it with a new rail. The guide battens will be perpendicular to the panels to be installed, the step between the slats will be no more than 50 cm.

The first step is to assess whether the tree needs antiseptic treatment. As a rule, for sanitary facilities and kitchens, such processing is mandatory, due to the high humidity of such rooms. Even before the installation work begins, the stacks of slats are untied, each is treated with an antiseptic composition using a brush or spray gun. It is advisable to perform such processing in the open air the day before installation - then the tree will dry out qualitatively, and unpleasant vapors will not have to be inhaled diligently.

Impregnated slats are first exposed around the perimeter of the ceiling or wall. The rectangle formed by four slats is the basis of the entire frame. When installing perimeter rails, it is necessary to use a level and a plumb line and measure the “frame structure” several times before mounting. The perimeter will probably not fit snugly against the wall, so additional bars are placed between the slats and the walls (ceiling). Fasteners are made with self-tapping screws in pre-drilled holes, the fastening step is no more than 40 cm.

When the wooden perimeter is created on all the walls, additional guides are mounted to it in increments of 35-45 cm. Here, too, there is a trick - every 50 cm these extended rails must be additionally attached to the walls or ceiling, otherwise the whole structure will sag. Use a heavy metal ruler to check the straightness of the guide rails by passing it between the side perimeter posts.

The finished frame must be strong - even if not at the level railings for lining, but without backlash and any irregularities. After stuffing plastic fittings (ends, corners, turns, etc.) onto the rails, you can once again evaluate the strength of the frame - and, if necessary, strengthen it with additional rails and screws. Then the PVC panels will slide freely onto the mounting place, and the assembly of the plastic dressing of the room itself will take several hours at most.

Lathing for PVC panels made of plastic elements

Plastic crate for plastic panels is somewhat more expensive than a wooden frame and is more sensitive to wall irregularities. Its advantages include perfect immunity to mold and decay, high speed and factory reliability of installation.

Plastic guides are supplied with special clip-on fasteners, whose design is similar to the “father-mother” lock on a laminate or siding. It is not required to treat plastic with antiseptics; you can immediately proceed with the installation of wall or ceiling PVC cladding. But! The side posts of the perimeter will still have to be made of plastic rails, because. the strength of plastic guides for a large area of ​​​​finishing is not enough.

Without exception, all plastic guides must be strictly perpendicular to the installation of panels. If at least one deviates, the latch clip will not work, and the entire structure will have to be redone. Therefore, a plastic frame is more often used when finishing small walls in baths and steam rooms - when high humidity makes the frame wood an unacceptable material.

Lathing for plastic panels made of metal profiles

This type of crate is used extremely rarely, due to the significant cost of aluminum profiles. How to make a crate for PVC metal panels? Yes, almost the same as a similar design for plasterboard ceilings:

• First, along the perimeter of the wall / ceiling, the starting U-shaped profile is installed exactly according to the level;
• Further, metal guides with perforations for fastening PVC panels are pushed into it;
• Perforated guides are additionally fixed to the ceiling or walls with screws, in increments of 80-90 cm;
• Plastic fittings are installed, after which you can proceed with the installation of the panels themselves.

The strength of the metal frame significantly exceeds the wooden or plastic counterparts, and the step between the guides is much larger - 80 cm versus 40 cm. But the price of an aluminum frame can exceed the cost of all panels several times. Therefore, it is used if there are excess fixing profiles after the installation of drywall.

Composite crates have also proven themselves well - from a metal perimeter, to which wooden or plastic slats are attached. The price / quality ratio of such hybrid structures should be recognized as optimal for plastic panels used to decorate walls and ceilings.

This technological element can be made of various materials and built in various ways. Which one to choose depends on your specific needs.

First, let's talk about the material from which the crate is made. As a rule, three different materials are used: wood (or rather, a wooden lath), plastic elements and metal structures (a metal corner or a U-shaped profile, usually made of aluminum).

Wooden crate

Wood is relevant in most cases, it is the basic, universal material for the crate. It fits in most cases, it is inexpensive. What are the disadvantages of wood? There is only one major drawback: rotting. If the room in which you are going to install the panels will contain a damp atmosphere (for example, it is a kitchen or bathroom), then the wood may rot.

To prevent this from happening, the tree must first be treated with a special composition, the so-called antiseptic. Keep in mind that the composition must dry completely before you begin to install the crate: this way you will avoid the unpleasant smell of wet antiseptic composition.

Not every wooden lath is suitable for crate. For this responsible role, you can not use any rubbish that has a place in the stove: a crooked lath, knotty, serrated, cracked. Then the design will last a long time.

plastic crate

When is plastic crate for PVC panels relevant? First of all, it is an alternative to preservative-treated wood for humid atmospheres. Plastic is close in strength to, but is not subject to decay at all. First of all, plastic is used in such super-critical rooms as baths, with their prohibitive humidity and temperature.

Its other advantage is that it is easy to assemble: no fixing materials are needed. Plastic structures for the crate are initially supplied with locking joints for inserting one into the other. At these joints-locks, the structures are held quite firmly.

It should be borne in mind that the necessary condition for the operation of the lock is exactly the right angles between the elements of the crate. If at least one corner is not straight, the lock will not snap into place, and nothing will hold.

From these prefabricated elements - plastic guides - most of the crate is assembled. Side racks are an exception: plastic guides are not suitable for their manufacture. Here you need a plastic rail. The fact is that the connection on the locks built into the plastic guides is not strong enough to make a reliable crate.

Metal crate

The least commonly used metal crate. It is made of aluminum structures of various profiles - corner or U-shaped.

This design is the most durable and most resistant to all external influences; it is used if the sheathing for PVC panels must last for centuries, or if there is a significant excess of an aluminum profile that has nowhere to go (for example, after an unsuccessful calculation of the consumption of materials for). What are the features of such a design?

In installation, it is very similar to a crate for plasterboard ceilings. Screws are usually used as fastening materials, with the help of which the crate is attached to the wall or ceiling. Holes are pre-drilled under these screws in metal structures; also, holes should be drilled for fasteners on which the PVC panels themselves will be installed.

The dimensions of the squares of the crate made of aluminum are much larger than those made of wood or plastic, up to two times. This is due to the fact that the metal is much stronger than both of these materials. Also, a large crate can significantly save expensive structural elements made of light metal.

Finally, there is such an option as a mixed crate. For example, you can combine wood and aluminum; if you have a certain amount of aluminum profile left, “neither this nor that”, then you can make the most key logs of the crate or perimeter from it, and do everything else from wood. Mixed sheathing allows you to combine the best of two designs: in terms of price and quality, it will probably be the best option.

In any case, whatever the manufacturing technology of the crate, the selected material must be mounted in such a way as to prevent any backlash or dangling. If necessary, increase the amount of fasteners.

So, you are planning to make repairs to the premises and have chosen PVC wall panels for decoration. Decorating walls with decorative panels is a simple and economical way to make repairs to your...

How to make a crate for plastic panels in the bathroom?

What justifies the choice in favor of plastic finishes for the bathroom? Advantages of PVC panels. The material has good technical characteristics, does not require even walls, is mounted quickly enough and without the involvement of specialists. Difficulties in the implementation of the crate occur only due to ignorance of the basic rules of this process. The procedure and simple principles of the crate procedure will be discussed in the article.

About tools and materials

The speed of installation work largely depends on the preliminary preparation of the material and instrumental base.

The installation of the crate without a simple element in the operating mode is ensured by the presence of:

• Stepladders or a regular stable bench.
• Level or laser level.
• Screwdriver and screwdrivers.
• Perforator (impact drill), grinders (hacksaws).
• Plumb, pencil, tape measure.

The crate material is varied, the frame will be made of:

• Wooden bars.
• metal profile.
• plastic guides.
• The role of fasteners is assigned to self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. The first option is suitable for a wooden surface, the second for a concrete or brick base.

These samples are characterized by ease of installation and excellent performance. When choosing, they usually rely on the available financial resource or use leftovers from previous repairs.

How is material consumption calculated?

Drawing up an estimate based on a preliminary calculation of the necessary materials is an obligatory stage of any type of construction and installation work. Installing a frame under plastic is no exception.

When calculating the length and quantity of the profile, you must remember the following points:

1. Installation of rails is mandatory for the perimeter of the room and the perimeter of the door (window).
2. The location of the frame elements is always perpendicular to the panels. For example, when fixing PVC panels vertically, a part of the profile must be placed horizontally. How to proceed when planning a horizontal fastening of plastic decor is already clear.
3. The value between the plank gaps is within 0.3-0.5 m. The stronger the plastic (thicker and better), the greater the intermediate distance.
4. The gap between the screws (dowels) is 0.2-0.3 m.
5. Calculation results are subject to rounding. In fact, they are increased to a whole number.

The main material and related elements also need to calculate:

• Knowing the length of the wall and the width of the plastic panel, it is easy to make calculations by dividing the first value by the second. PVC sheets (tiles) are calculated by square meters. Separate calculations are needed for near door spaces.
• The number of fasteners (for PVC panels) is affected by the length of the wall. In fact, one element per half a meter is enough. If kleimers are used, then 20 pieces are consumed on one "square".
• Do not forget about the corner profiles. Their number corresponds to the number of corners in the bathroom. This indicator affects the number of corners for skirting boards (ceiling and floor).

The final data reflecting the consumption of material is recommended to be increased by 5-8%. Then failure to cut (another marriage) will not be a reason for an emergency shopping trip. By the way, the selected frame material does not affect the essence of the installation process and the layout of the crate. They are always the same.

Nuances of marking and installation work

There is no need to pre-level the rough base. Minor roughness and irregularities on the wall and ceiling surfaces are allowed. However, the quality of the plastic decor is affected by the deviation from a single frame plane, if we apply this concept to a single wall or ceiling taken. Much in this matter depends on the quality of measurements.

1. For ceiling

The installation of the frame starts from the lowest angle. The first mark is set taking into account the indent from the overlap. Its value corresponds to the profile width. With planned spot lighting, the height of the lamp is added to the indent.

1. By means of a level (hydraulic or laser) there is an additional marking of the walls. The risks are placed on the walls with an indent from the corner equal to 0.1-0.15 m.
2. Then follows the connection of the marks with the help of a chopping cable (a thread dyed with a dry dye).
3. The step size for further marking the ceiling is 0.5-0.6 m.

As a result, lines appear on the ceiling, which are guidelines for fixing the rails.

2. For walls

Here the emphasis is on observance of spicy corners. Compliance with the value of 90º is checked with a building corner.

Procedure:

• Angular packing of timber (profile). Sometimes there is a need to use additional gaskets. The main thing is to achieve the correct location of the rails - a right angle between the adjoining walls.
• Fastening rails along the flow and the floor.
• The stretched cord (from the top to the bottom profile) is a guideline for the installation of horizontal frame elements.
• The location of the profile rails along the door (window) perimeter.

Features of different materials for frames

1. Wooden

It is characterized by low cost and low weight. Suitable for bearing the weight of plastic.

Of the shortcomings:

• Active absorption of moisture, leading to deformation.
• Susceptibility to mold manifestations, rotting.

Therefore, a wooden crate is used in bathrooms with sufficient air exchange, as well as a mandatory pre-installation antiseptic and antibacterial treatment of wood.

What facilitates the process of fastening the beam:

1. Marking places on the tree for self-tapping screws and making holes.
2. Drilling holes in concrete for dowel nails with a countersunk head.
3. Combination of holes in the timber and walls with further attachment of hardware.
4. For a wooden base, five-centimeter self-tapping screws are used.

Video secrets of installing plastic panels on a wooden crate

2. metal

Its cost is higher than a wooden counterpart, but the service life is longer. The material is an aluminum profile. They start with the installation of U-shaped profiles at the top and bottom. Next comes the fastening of the guides and the installation of the panels.

The method of mounting polyvinyl chloride panels (PVC) on the crate does not require special mastery of the arts and a long time, and also when performing it, you do not have to move the weight of the furniture out of the room - this is the best option that does not cause unnecessary inconvenience. Due to the ease of implementation, the process of installing PVC panels on the crate can be carried out by yourself, without much effort. Especially if the method is chosen on a wooden crate.

The advantage of installing PVC on a wooden base is that there is no need to level and pre-prepare the walls and ceiling before starting to finish the PVC coating. This technology of fastening the coating allows you to lay an additional basis between the panels and the surface of the wall / ceiling - heat and sound insulation. In addition, with self-repair, you can safely implement interior ideas using various shapes and graphics of pvc panels, and without spending money on specialist services, which can be quite expensive compared to the proposed calculation.

Necessary materials for a wooden crate with your own hands:

• Dowel-nails(on reinforced concrete, brick walls and on other solid bases);
• Self-tapping screws, nails or staples(on a wooden surface);
• Beam-ray(to create a lattice base on the surface of a wall or ceiling);
• PVC panels(installed on the crate structure vertically or horizontally);
• Corners external and internal(finishing profiles, according to the perimeters of walls and ceilings, window and door openings);
• Connection profiles(Guide-accessories H-profile are fixed to the rails, panels are applied to them from both ends along the length);
• Initial Profile(edging, terminal L and P - profiles, unique for hiding the short sides of the profiles when finishing walls, ceilings, window and door openings)
• Final Profile(F-profile, hides the cavity between the wall and the panel);
• Plinth fillets(according to the perimeter of the floor and ceiling).

Tools for wooden battens under plastic (PVC) panels:

- A hammer;

- A gun for fixing staples, in the presence of staples;

- Drill, pencil, level, tape measure.

Plastic can be cut with a grinder, a hacksaw, a construction knife or a jigsaw.

Preparatory work. How to determine the consumption of materials?

Determining the required number of panels and rails is a simple matter, you just need to carefully take measurements.

To find out how many PVC panels are needed to lay a wall or ceiling, you should measure the surface in the direction in which the PVC coatings will be laid. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the slats under the crate will be perpendicular to the panels - vertically or horizontally.

The optimal direction for laying is selected based on the perimeters of the room, as well as on aesthetic preferences. It should be noted that, depending on the direction of the panel line, the finishing may have a better or worse effect on the visual parameters of the space: finishing the strips along the height of the wall will significantly lengthen the premises, and along the length of the wall, it will significantly reduce it.

If the panels are mounted along the height of the wall, then the distances between the floor and the ceiling should be measured.

And if the installation of PVC will be carried out along the length of the walls, then you should measure the length of the wall, while pulling the tape measure from one corner of the wall to another corner, including the total length of the walls of the room along which PVC coatings will be laid. After the process of measuring the dimensions of walls and ceilings, it will become clear how much material needs to be purchased for the total repaired area, as well as the number of guide devices that are used to fasten the panels to the lathing.

Now you need to take measurements of external and internal corners, joints, window and door openings. Thus, the amount of necessary finishing materials is determined - corners, skirting boards, etc.

How to purchase and operate PVC?

During the selection and purchase of panels, you need to divide the total length of the walls by the width of the 1st panel. As a result, the number of pieces of plastic panels required for installation will be released. It is worth taking into account the “plus or minus” cases when finishing and arming yourself with several spare panels. Complementary materials for the panels are selected according to the obtained dimensions. After purchasing PVC materials, it is not recommended to unpack them immediately and use them, let them lie down for a day in the room where the installation will be carried out. This is done to acclimatize, prepare the material for room conditions. During unpacking, lay out the panels carefully so as not to damage the decorative layer of the panels.

Do-it-yourself PVC panel installation technology.

Installation of PVC panels begins with the installation of sheathing beams on the wall and ceiling, on which the plastic panels will be fixed.

As bars for the crate, slats in sizes 20x30, 30x40, 30x50, 50x50 mm, but not less than 20x20, are suitable.

With high humidity of the air and walls in the room being repaired, it is recommended to treat wooden slats with an antifungal agent or similar impregnation, self-tapping screws should also be selected from moisture-resistant metals, such as galvanized ones. Usually, under increased humid conditions, it is preferable to replace the wooden structure with galvanized profiles.

Marking walls, ceiling. The laths of the purlins must be perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels. The distance between the rails (≡) should be at least 40-50 cm, on the ceiling 30-40 cm.

How and with what to fasten the bars? Before attaching the rails to the wall or ceiling, it is necessary to align its location with a level or plumb line. The bars are fixed to the concrete surface with dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 60 ... .100 mm, depending on the base. For a secure fit of the plastic to the crate, it is recommended to drill potai on the rails under the dowel-nails. If the surface is wooden, then the slats can be fixed with long wood screws. In places where hanging parts or decorative elements are planned to be installed in the future, it is also necessary to attach wooden slats to prevent stress in the panels.

Where and when to install guide profiles? Profiles - plastic guides - "L" - shaped design ("Elka" - on the cut they resemble the English letter "L"), as well as "P" - shaped initial profile are attached to the prepared crate on the wall or ceiling, before direct fastening of PVC panels . The profile can be attached to a wooden crate with a construction stapler, clips, nails or self-tapping screws.

If the height of the wall is greater than the length of the panel, then to join the plastic, you need to use connectors resembling the English letter "H" - ("ashki"). When finishing the room in a round manner, at the corners of the room, internal corner plastic guides must be attached to the crate. When ceiling or wall finishing, the resulting cavity between the panel and the surface is hidden with the help of the final element "F" - profile.

How to correctly install PVC panels with your own hands step by step?

1. According to the rule, the laying of PVC wall panels should be started in the direction from the corner of the room towards the door, window and other openings.
2. The first panel must be inserted into the groove of the previously fixed corner - a narrow shelf. Then check the location of the panel - it should be positioned perfectly evenly in relation to the corner of the surface being trimmed, do this with a plumb line or level.
3. Attach a wide panel shelf to the crate with staples.
4. Insert the second panel with a narrow shelf into the groove of the already fixed first panel. Then carefully check that the first panel leading from the corner fits snugly against the finishing profile, and the second panel should fit snugly against the first panel.
5. Then, using a stapler, fix the mounting shelf on the crate.
6. The third and following panels should be mounted in the same way.
7. It is recommended to partially reduce the last panel, from the side of the wide shelf, by 6-8 mm compared to the center of the fixing profile.
8. Insert the shortened panel into the groove of the fastener and then insert it into the groove of the adjacent corner panel. In this way, the last PVC panel can be installed tightly and securely, with the result that additional fastening is not required. Do this carefully and carefully so as not to crush the corner guide.
9. The final stage of the process of installing PVC panels on your own is the installation of end strips and skirting boards, which are specifically designed to work with plastic panels.

Calculation of mounting profiles for plastic panels:

Mounting profiles or guide corners sold individually, the length of one piece is 3 meters.

Calculation of internal and external corners. To determine the number of corners of the external and internal version required for installation, it is necessary to measure separately the height of all internal and external corners of the area being trimmed. Divide the resulting dimensions by 3 m - the length of one piece of the profile.

Calculation of window and door openings. To determine how many meters it will take for door and window openings, measure all window limits in the traditional way in width and height, and measure doorways “P” figuratively - on 3 sides, not counting the lower area of ​​​​the door. After that, the resulting sum of the perimeters of windows and doors must be divided by 3 m. Add the final number to the length of the outer corners. Round the values ​​​​of numbers to a large integer, the required number of corners in pieces comes out.

Calculation of the number of fillets. To find out how many fillets are required to mount the panels, you need to find the sum of the ceiling dimensions. Do it this way: measure the perimeter of the ceiling, divide the result by 3, round the number up to a larger integer.

Calculation of the corners of the ceiling plinth. If the number of external and internal corners of the ceiling plinth is required, then it is enough to compare the amount received with the number of internal and external corners of the room, they must match.

Calculation of the number of start profiles. To obtain the number of starting corners for mounting panels, measure the height of the corners from where the installation begins, divide the resulting number by 3, round up to a larger integer.

Calculation of fasteners for mounting plastic panels:

Consumption of dowel-nails for mounting wall/ceiling panels, the standard is 1 piece for every 0.5 m of battens.

Consumption of nails, screws, screws and staples. Multiply the number of plastic panels and guide profiles by the number of rows of timber. For example, we find the required number of self-tapping screws, if the number of rows:

Profiles - 2

Panels - 12

14x6 = 84 (where, 14 is the sum of multiplying the number of profiles and panels, 6 is a row of rails, 84 is the number of required screws).