So as not to lose quality characteristics wood, it is recommended to treat it only with natural compounds. Various natural oils have been used for treating wood since the 12th century. Linseed oil in terms of its characteristics, it takes first place, since it not only protects the wood, but also gives it a soft velvety shade. How to properly use linseed oil for wood processing, the main stages and subtleties of the work in one short article.
When choosing how to treat a wooden floor or staircase, the environmental friendliness and protective properties of the impregnation are first taken into account. Impregnating wood with natural linseed oil has a number of advantages:
Linen is used to coat any wood products: in the processing of houses, when finishing furniture and decorative elements made of oak, teak, pine, spruce, fir. Due to its composition, the oil is easily combined with various tinting emulsions. Apply independently as finishing and protection or under further varnish coating.
The only downside is the price, which depends on the manufacturer and the volume of impregnation purchased. The table below presents the most popular manufacturers of linseed oil for finishing work:
Which wood oil to choose depends on your financial capabilities. An unrefined product from any manufacturer is suitable for wood processing. Imported flax compositions are more expensive, but have additives in the form of beeswax or artificial polymers. They reduce drying time and simplify work. Each manufacturer has its own consumption and depends on the thickness of the product.
To tint the surface, impregnation with colors is purchased. This can be found in the catalogs of the manufacturer Tikkuril, price from 750 rubles/liter. Translucent tinting with various natural shades. Using colored oil, you can tint an inexpensive type of wood, such as pine, or give the appearance of oak or mahogany. After processing, it will be difficult at first glance to distinguish inexpensive material from a similar premium class one.
Each manufacturer's use is indicated on the label. But there are standard methods:
Let's take a closer look at the two-layer application, which is suitable for processing wooden floors, stairs and walls.
To complete the finishing you will need tools and materials:
The product is first cleaned of the old coating, the surface is polished using sandpaper. Use a soft brush to sweep away dust. Prepared wood absorbs oil better, and the protective properties of the coating will be higher.
Before work, the oil is brought to a boil twice. Thermal preparation will reduce the drying time of the impregnation. You need to cook the flaxseed product in a water bath, in small portions. As soon as the oil boils for the first time, remove it from the heat and allow to cool. Then the procedure is repeated. Before application, the hot product is stirred so that the color is more uniform. Modern compositions with wax you don’t have to preheat them, but they will take longer to dry. Use hot impregnation with caution and wear protective gloves.
Beeswax is heated in a water bath and rubbed hot into the wood until the surface acquires an even shine. But it is not necessary to cover the impregnation with wax; you can use the old method of polishing - using a thick suede cloth. Rub the surface with suede until it shines, using circular movements. But adding shine to wood is a long and painstaking process. It may take several weeks to treat a large area.
When using linseed oil to protect wood in your home, the application technology is followed. You will have to work with a heated product, so take care to protect your hands and eyes. By impregnating the wood, the oil will protect it from moisture, sun, fungi and mold. Small cracks will disappear on the surface, and the pattern will become clearer. To decorate inexpensive wood like oak or mahogany, impregnations with tinting effects are used, which can be purchased at any specialized store. For simple processing, the most inexpensive unrefined oil is suitable. It is advisable to wipe the top surface with wax or sand it until shiny with a suede cloth.
Oil-wax impregnation for wood Oil wax Anta does not contain any modifications of any pigments or tinting pastes and, therefore, Anta Oil Wax, when initially applied to the surface of wood of any species, practically does not paint the treated surface in any color.
← immediately for tinting Anta oil wax.
Select and buy ready-made pigment or ColorLak pigment paste.
After treating the surface with oil and wax based impregnation Oil wax Anta from the Eco Natur line the color and structure of the wood fibers of the treated wood become a little more contrasting and rich due to the filling of the wood capillaries with natural linseed oil and wood resins, which have a natural, barely noticeable, light sunny amber tint. That is, processed, for example, Oil wax Standard the surface, while preserving the original shade and structure of the species of the wooden surface you have chosen, seems to saturate, deepen and slightly enhance the natural original color of the wood that it had before processing.
A deeper natural color of wood and the manifestation of a more saturated amber spectrum on a treated wooden surface can be obtained by introducing oil wax additional quantity various resins, which saturate wood fibers and wood capillaries with greater concentration during processing. Almost any tree resin has its own characteristic color different shades and saturation. The visual effect of enhancing the color of wood is obtained by treating wood with the Maslovosko series PREMIUM And Leader GOLD , because these modifications of milkweeds contain increased content various additional resins, which are responsible for increasing the wear resistance to mechanical abrasion of the surface and significantly improve the performance of the natural UV filters contained in these Oil Waxes, in contrast to the Oil Waxes series Standard.
The degree of protection of Anta Maslovosk impregnations is rated quite highly. The service life of the most commonly consumed oil wax - Maslovsk Standard, even in a colorless version, without introducing any pigments into it, can be up to 10 years! That is why Most of our consumers of natural impregnations, produced without the use of any chemical or artificial components, choose the natural color of the Anta Oil Wax impregnation and leave the wood the same color as it was created by nature itself.
It is known that service life and high-quality surface protection wooden house made of logs and timber, covered with natural wood siding, blockhouse, imitation timber or simply planed boards, especially on external walls houses and baths, is largely determined and DEPENDS on the SPECIES of wood, its density, climatic conditions where the tree grew, where the forest grew or where it was harvested, when the wood was cut down to make lumber, etc.
Therefore, at first glance, wood that is almost identical in quality and color, even of the same species, or the treated wooden surface of houses made of logs or timber, can DIFFERENTLY maintain the quality of protection from UV or resist aging, wear, cracking, etc.
One of the main factors in the destruction of wood is exposure to solar UV radiation.
Anta oil wax of the "Eco Natur" series was created as a protective impregnation with an absolutely natural composition, but with the highest possible wood protection functions.
Using only natural ingredients in the production of Anta Oil Wax is POSSIBLE, but it is quite difficult to obtain results that can equally compete or even surpass in the quality of protection and some indicators other oil-wax impregnations from well-known foreign manufacturers, in the synthesis of which SYNTHETIC, active or artificially created protective agents are used components, such as, for example, a composition of active synthetic UV FILTERS.
Oil wax Anta technologists did not pursue dubious results and introduce artificial improvers and reflective additives or UV absorbers into the oil wax composition, but used a simple, INEXPENSIVE, accessible and KNOWN, natural and safe method of protecting wood from UV.
The best safe solution that does not violate the ecological balance and composition of Anta Oil Wax is the addition of specially processed, prepared and highly purified natural EARTH pigments from foreign impurities to the Oil Wax, if desired, to increase the degree of wood protection and significantly increase its service life!
The addition of specially selected and prepared high-quality NATURAL EARTH PIGMENTS to the composition of Maslovovsk Anta SIGNIFICANTLY increased the degree of protection of wood from the effects of UV destruction.
EVERYTHING IS SIMPLE: Earth pigment is a finely crushed natural mineral that itself already has specific color, which COLORES the wood in the shade you choose.
Sun rays various spectrum and range, including UV radiation, falling on wood treated with pigmented Anta Oil Wax, which contains microparticles of these colored earth minerals, are partially REFLECTED from them or partially ABSORBED by them, thereby preventing direct contact, and therefore the load of these rays on the fibers and structure of the wood.
TD ColorLak, together with Arichemie, has developed and offers READY-MADE SOLUTIONS for tinting Anta Oil Wax, represented by high-quality concentrated pigment pastes of various colors and shades.
Below are samples of wooden surfaces on PINE wood that were treated with PIGMENTED Anta Oil Wax.
For a better assessment of color rendering and a better visual perception of your entire color range available paints for treated wooden surfaces with tinted Maslovak, our specialists have prepared several options for you test samples that were done different ways(for example, scanning paint samples on a high-performance and high-quality SCANNER in the highest possible quality to minimize color loss when scanning a sample, or obtaining “live” photos from painted samples using NATURAL DAYLIGHT a professional camera with high resolution and NOT distorted color rendition, which occurs when shooting on cameras with a bad matrix) before posting them on our website.
We understand that different MONITORS can transmit color differently, and scanners and cameras that were used to record color and obtain finished results before posting photos of colors on the site can also give a slight difference in saturation compared to real flowers when viewing a sample live. Therefore, WE RECOMMEND that if your home computer monitor has a low resolution or a “weak” color matrix, USE any TABLET or screen good SMARTPHONE and when viewing, you will receive colors that may be practically no different from real samples.
Samples are SPLIT and colored: LEFT edge - 6%, RIGHT edge - 10% pigmented Oil wax ANTA |
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To ENLARGE the size of the picture, CLICK on the selected PHOTO |
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Oil wax Anta WITHOUT PIGMENT |
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color WHITE(supplied dry) |
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color ROSEWOOD. (Black) | |
color WENGE |
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color NUT | |
color OAK | |
color COGNAC | |
color MAHAGON | |
color CHERRY | |
color BEECH | |
color GOLD(Yellow) | |
color RED | |
Colorless tinting process Oil Wax ANTA VERY SIMPLE. Self-pigmentation of oil wax can be done and is possible at any time of the year, at ANY TEMPERATURE and regardless of when you plan to use the finished COLOR Oil wax for its intended purpose, because Its shelf life is practically unlimited if stored in a tightly closed container and at a low temperature, and takes 5-10 minutes.
For a better understanding of the simplicity of the DIY tinting process Oil wax Anta in the desired color or to obtain pigmented Anta Oil Wax when applying effect of VALUABLE WOOD species from an ordinary pine board, we have prepared for you detailed VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS on how to get from colorless Oil wax STANDARD and pigment ColorLak pastes Tsvetnogo Oil wax Anta.
← to WATCHING VIDEO tinting OilWax Anta
TD Color-Lak, when introducing pigments into Oil Wax, RECOMMENDS that in order to obtain the MAXIMUM effective color rendering and naturalness of the shade of the tinted wooden surface in the desired color, adhere to the proportion of pigment to one part of Oil Wax - from 5% to 12%.
Those. in practice, for 1 liter of Anta oil wax you need to add only 60 - 100 g of pigment from the ColorLak series.
Price PIGMENT The ColorLac series of Arichemie GmbH consists of 5.50 RUR for 1g
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Place an ORDER and BUY PIGMENTS Colorlac
Pickup points for OIL wax and PIGMENTS :
- G. (any quantity, consultation with a technologist)
-at our other points and pick-up points PIGMENT ColorLak is supplied TO ORDER or by agreement.
when ordering PIGMENT together with Oil wax from 10 kg
Treating a house made of profiled laminated timber with an antiseptic impregnation based on oil and wax Oil wax STANDARD with “COGNAC” color pigment in a ratio of 6%. Oil wax was applied Felt Mitten.
- The assembly of a house from profiled laminated timber with a section of 200x150 was carried out by Terem-Grad on May 24, 2015.
- Treatment of the walls of a wooden house made of laminated veneer lumber was carried out after preliminary GRINDING of the timber with sandpaper No. 150 manually carpenters of SK Terem-Grad with subsequent initial application of fire retardant composition PIRILAX-LUX or ANTEX-PREMIUM with a consumption of fire-retardant antiseptic impregnation from 250 g/m2.
- After 10 days, the house was treated with Anta Oil Wax with Cognac pigment. Consumption Oil wax Anta amounted to 70g/m2.
- Independent customer comments
about our work on GRINDING a house made of timber or the quality of work on applying Oil Wax, reviews about the quality of the Oil Wax composition, the quality of PIGMENTS, the results of Oil Wax in PROTECTING the house from moisture, UV, cracking, etc. you can receive from the customer of this house by e-mail:
Vladimir Vlasov
Click on the photo to enlarge the picture full screen | ||||
Oil impregnation is one of the simplest and at the same time effective ways protective and decorative processing wood Today we will talk about the types of oils, the differences in compositions for interior and exterior work, as well as the technique for impregnating wooden surfaces and wood products.
Coating carpentry with oil can be called, without exaggeration, the most environmentally friendly and in a safe way wood processing. This is because the oils contain either completely natural or inert chemical compounds. Let's make a small disclaimer right away: there are wood oils that contain volatile solvents, but after drying such a coating remains absolutely harmless.
Almost all wood oils are made on the basis of linseed oil, or more precisely, linseed or other natural drying oil. A characteristic feature of this material is its extremely high tendency to polymerize. Pure oil is almost never used for wood processing. The drying oil base can also be hemp, tung or other origin, the main differences are expressed in the conditions that promote thickening and polymerization.
Oils vary greatly in their technical specifications: viscosity, density, type and content of solids, volatile solvents and special additives. All this not only affects the performance of the coating, but also completely determines the application technique and the nature of interaction with a certain type of wood. On the other hand, oils are classified according to decorative effect, that is, according to such characteristics as the intensity of the texture and the depth of change in the color of the wood.
IN carpentry There are about two dozen common types of wood, differing in density, porosity and vessel sizes. In each individual case, the oil must be selected individually, also taking into account the size, shape and specific features of the product being processed. Please note that viscosity can be adjusted with solvents only when working with tung oil; other compositions absolutely do not tolerate this.
The thicker and more viscous the oil used, the more difficult it is to apply an even layer before polymerization begins. Working with thick oils requires greater care; the resulting drips are subsequently very problematic to remove. The advantages of thick oils are their high drying speed, comparable to some types of varnishes. Also thanks great content solid particles, such oils form a more durable film, providing protection from both mechanical damage and contamination.
Thinner oils are used to process products that either have a significant surface area or are replete with small parts with many hard to reach places. Low viscosity oils can be applied for quite a long time without worrying about uneven drying. However, to obtain high-quality protection, the product must dry for quite a long time; moreover, such oils are usually applied in 3 or more layers.
When choosing an oil, it is of paramount importance visual effect from its use. From this point of view, oils are divided into conditionally colorless and tinting. Why are oils called colorless only conditionally? Because in any case they change the color of the wood surface, but at the same time maintain transparency. Coloring oils include a colloidal suspension of coloring pigment - from white to soot, which somewhat muffles the contrast of the texture pattern.
Transparent oils always reveal the wood's texture differently. This is due, first of all, to the viscosity index. The lower it is, the smaller the pores of the wood can be impregnated. Thick oils show only the general pattern of the fibers, while rarer oils show fine details of texture. Thus, for treating oak surfaces, the oil should have a viscosity slightly below average, while rich, thick formulations are recommended for alder.
The use of tinting oils is in many ways similar to staining. Tinting wood with oil is rarely used as an independent processing technique. Much more often, such compositions are used to emphasize the soft veins between hard wood fibers or to cover individual elements furniture. After drying, tinting oil has less gloss than colorless oil.
It is not known whether such a property of oils as smell can be attributed to decorative qualities. In reality, all oils smell completely different, from haymaking to roasted seeds. After drying, the smell from the oil treatment turns into a very persistent, but subtle aroma, which can become a valuable part of the interior color.
Despite their apparent homogeneity, wood oils are a colloidal system consisting of a liquid oil base and a suspension of solids. The latter are products of partial polymerization of oil, special additives (driers in oils for external use), resins and natural wax. You are absolutely right if you assumed that the content of solid particles in the oil increases its viscosity and density.
The high content of partially polymerized inclusions in the oil helps eliminate the effect of raising the pile when wetting the wood. By using rich, thick oils, intermediate sanding or polishing can sometimes be avoided entirely. There is one interesting trend in this: thick oils are ideal for large-vascular wood, where the formation of high pile is possible, while fluid compositions are better used for dense hardwoods, which are practically not prone to “shaggyness”. On the other hand, due to the dry residue content, the drying time of the oil is regulated.
The inclusion of dissolved wax in the composition pursues slightly different goals. Wax helps tightly seal the pores of the wood, providing it with excellent hydrophobicity. This type of waxing is used mainly in exterior finishing to protect wood from getting wet and dust accumulating in small pores. Another reason is that the wax is added to the oil by being dissolved in turpentine or some other volatile solvent. This gives rise to the problem of persistent unpleasant odor, what in living rooms highly undesirable. But there are oils in which wax dissolves when heated. These mixtures are unstable and the wax often precipitates, making the oil more difficult to apply. However, due to the high environmental friendliness of such a composition, it is possible to wax interior parts, but not for the purpose of protection, but to give a light tint and glossy shine.
Unlike most wood preservatives, oil does not form a thick film, maintaining the vapor permeability of the material. At the same time, the hydrophobicity of the surface increases significantly - upon contact with liquid water, the absorption of wood is practically zero. However, a wooden product remains susceptible to shrinkage and swelling; coating with oil does not eliminate these phenomena.
The protective effect of the oil is to compact the outer layers of the tree, thereby preventing the penetration of insect pests into the mass. Due to the absence of paths for moisture penetration, the tree becomes least susceptible to organic damage by mold, mildew or blue staining.
Oil also preserves the color of wood well, which is especially important for exterior decoration of a house. The oil crust that forms on the surface effectively scatters sunlight and limits the flow of oxygen. Due to this, the rate of cellulose oxidation and the associated appearance of a grayish coating are reduced significantly.
All these properties are more pronounced the thicker the oil used for coating and the more layers are applied. Oils are characterized by the division of protection into two barriers: an internal one, achieved by impregnation of the pores, and an external one, formed when a thin oil film dries on the surface. It should be remembered that oil-impregnated wood has a higher thermal conductivity than dry wood.
Wood oil is always selected for a certain breed. It is recommended to have with you a trial piece of wood of the same type and quality of processing that is typical wood finishing. Test application even on small areas will help to quickly evaluate the behavior of the composition in contact with wood, as well as the decorative effect.
Let's start with the fact that everything conifers wood practically does not need to be impregnated with oil. If absolutely necessary, thick formulations applied in one layer should be used. This is due to the presence of a large amount of resins in the pores, due to which the wood loses its ability to absorb even fluid oils. Therefore, it is necessary to achieve rapid drying of the oil on the surface and in the surface layer.
Thick, saturated oils are also used when processing low-density wood (linden, alder), especially fruit breeds having the most developed vascular system. There are no obstacles to impregnation with thick oil, while excessively fluid compositions will penetrate too deeply and will forever remain in a liquid state, deprived of oxygen.
A completely opposite approach is used when processing beech, birch or sycamore. Because of high density Such wood is impregnated either with unmelted oil or with compositions containing a solvent. Often, when working with dense hardwoods, they are treated in a combination way: first with oils that penetrate well into the wood, and then with thick compounds with a high proportion of solids and wax.
The process of applying the oil is extremely simple; just follow the instructions for using the specific composition. But there are also general rules:
Oil impregnation maintains performance for 4-5 years indoors and 2-3 years outdoors. After these periods, the coating is renewed by simply thoroughly cleaning the surfaces and applying another layer of oil. The thickness of the oil is chosen depending on the degree of damage to the previous finish; usually these are fairly thick restoration compounds.
Flaxseed oil is a natural substance obtained by cold or hot pressing of flaxseeds. Pure oil can be used on its own finishing coating, but in the untreated state it is ineffective due to its low ability to polymerize (dry).
When talking about impregnating wood with linseed oil, they usually mean using drying oil. This is a composition modified by heat treatment and the addition of chemical additives that accelerate the polymerization process. Drying oil is also called “boiled” or “boiled” linseed oil.
Processing wooden crafts pure linseed oil, you should be prepared not only for long drying, which can take up to 3 days (for each layer), but also know a number of important features. The raw product is actively absorbed into the structure of the wood, so coating the wood with linseed oil has to be done in 5-7 or more layers. When it dries on the outside, it does not polymerize well on the inside, which is why a seemingly dry product can leave oil stains for a long time. Exposure to ultraviolet light significantly speeds up the drying process. In the sun, treated wood can dry out in 6-8 hours, but the tone of the coating will change: it will become yellowish or even slightly brown.
Drying oil, thanks to its high polymerization rate, has completely different properties: it dries quickly, is not absorbed so actively, and does not change its color. This makes it more practical to use. Regardless of the conditions, the answer to the question of how long drying oil dries is clear - no more than a day (at 20°C). This distinguishes it favorably from raw flaxseed oil. In the future, when talking about this type of finishing, we will mean linseed oil.
Impregnation of wood with linseed oil does not provide solid protective film resistant to scratches and abrasion. But this view decorative finishing They are valued for other things, first of all - environmental friendliness, antiseptic properties, the ability to emphasize the texture of wood and preserve it from cracking.
Flax drying oil is used for finishing products used indoors. It is optimal for covering furniture surfaces, not subject to intense abrasion, wooden walls and ceilings. She's being treated wooden dishes, Kids toys. As a decorative and protective finish, linseed oil is appropriate to apply to the surface of valuable wood species to maximize the preservation of their natural qualities.
Preparation. The oil is applied to a dry and sanded surface. Wood moisture content should be at least 15%. It is recommended to carry out work at relative humidity air no more than 80%. When applying the composition to oily wood, the prepared surface is additionally wiped with white spirit.
Application. For work, use a brush, swab or lint-free cloth. The composition is evenly distributed on the surface and allowed to penetrate into the wood structure for 15-30 minutes. Excess oil that is no longer absorbed is wiped off with a rag or swab along the fibers. To avoid staining, ensure that the oil is evenly distributed on the surface.
Each new layer is applied after complete polymerization of the previous one with preliminary sanding. The number of layers required (in the case of drying oil from 1 to 4) depends on the specific use of the product and the type of wood (small-vascular species require fewer layers due to low absorbency).
The complete drying time for each layer is up to 24 hours.
Over time, the surface impregnated with linseed oil changes its color, begins to look dry, or wears off. This coating is short-lived, but this disadvantage is compensated by the ease of its restoration. When applying a second coat, the oil will hide all scratches and restore the appearance of the wood. If desired, linseed oil can be tinted with pigments to achieve the desired color shades. For products not subject to intensive use, the restoration procedure is carried out every two to three years.
Linseed oil with wax is an effective decorative and protective coating that gives wood high moisture-proof properties and increases its wear resistance. Impregnation adds a silky shine to surfaces and emphasizes the natural qualities of wood. Suitable for processing light and dark wood. A completely natural impregnation is optimal for finishing wooden floors, stairs, doors, furniture and other items subject to intense wear.
It is not difficult to prepare linseed oil and wood wax yourself. The easiest way: add grated oil to oil heated in a water bath. beeswax and bring to a homogeneous consistency. The classic proportion by weight is 1:1. The ratio of wax and linseed oil can be varied, creating compositions of varying degrees of viscosity: from thick mastics to liquid impregnations that penetrate deep into the wood structure.
The process of oil oxidation upon contact with air is accompanied by an increase in temperature, which can lead to spontaneous combustion of oil-vapor rags, tampons, sponges, etc. Before disposal, all consumables that were used for wiping off linseed oil should be thoroughly dried in a straightened state outside the room, or better yet, soaked in water or immediately burned. To store the dispenser and other tools in contact with oil, use airtight containers.