The problem of heat loss in private residential buildings has always existed. Somewhere heat is uselessly lost through the roof, in other houses it is wasted through the foundation. However, the main part is spent through the wall structures.
To this day, the topical issue for homeowners is how to avoid unnecessary waste of thermal energy? Therefore, we will try to figure out how to insulate the house, what material will better cope with the tasks.
After the construction of the frame of the building and the laying of the walls, an extremely important stage begins - the insulation of housing. Thanks to the selection of the most effective heat-insulating material, it is possible to create the maximum barrier to useless heat transfer.
Currently, the most common heaters on the Russian market are: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, glass wool, expanded clay, ecowool. Consider the features of each heat insulator in more detail.
An extremely popular material that has been successfully used as a heater for many decades.
The advantages of mineral wool are:
Despite the obvious advantages, the material has a significant drawback - the ability to absorb moisture. Therefore, it is impossible to do without laying an external waterproofing layer during its installation.
In addition, mineral wool is unlikely to be the best option for insulating walls from the inside, since it takes up too much usable volume.
The material is in great demand in the domestic market on a par with the previous insulation, mainly due to increased resistance to moisture. The thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene is an order of magnitude lower compared to mineral wool. However, the compression density suffers somewhat. The material is not very effective in resisting mechanical stress. Therefore, styrofoam boards are easily damaged.
The density index of the foam is in the range from 11 to 35 kg / m3, depending on the brand. The compressive strength of the plates is 0.05-0.16 MPa. The same bending quality of the material is 0.07-0.25 MPa. Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.033-0.037 W / m3.
Advantages:
Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting the presence of a risk of ignition of the material with the release of caustic, toxic smoke, harm to health during operation at elevated temperatures.
In the past, the material was the most common basis for home insulation. However, the reason for the popularization of the insulation was not so much in its characteristics, but in the absence of more efficient heaters.
Manufactured from molten fiberglass. Hence the name of the material. It has decent thermal insulation qualities, which are only slightly inferior to mineral wool. Thermal conductivity is in the range from 0.03 to 0.052 W/m3. Resistance to high temperatures reaches 450 °C.
The advantage of this solution is the absence of toxic fumes during fires. The disadvantages include the inconvenience of installation, significant shrinkage and increased hygroscopicity.
Belongs to the category of innovative cellulose-based insulation. Suitable for and outside. However, laying the material requires a special unit that combines the substance with water, forming an insulating mass of the desired consistency. The dry method of insulation does not allow to insulate the coating hermetically.
Material qualities:
It consists of the smallest wood fibers, therefore it does not hide the potential harm to health. As practice shows, the heat insulator does not emit toxic substances, prevents the development of mold and does not exude unpleasant odors.
The only drawback of the insulation can be considered the need for the use of specialized equipment.
In fact, the material is an insulating board, the structure of which is formed by small plastic granules. To obtain an extruded insulation sheet, a foaming agent is mixed with granular particles under high pressure and temperatures. The result of manufacturing are colored or transparent plates.
Properties:
If we talk about the shortcomings of the heat insulator, then, like ordinary foam, the material suffers somewhat from fragility. Therefore, its installation and operation requires careful attitude.
It is a loose insulation. Possesses worthy indicators of thermal conductivity and vapor barrier. It is most often used for floor insulation. Although it is ideal for wall insulation using the ring masonry method.
Expanded clay is characterized by moisture absorption at the level of about 8-20%. Due to the presence of a solid proportion of clay in the composition, it is distinguished by increased sound insulation. It has high frost resistance. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.10-0.18 W / m3, which indicates decent thermal insulation qualities of the material.
The disadvantages of expanded clay include a tendency to dust formation, which complicates installation work, and a significant weight of the heat-insulating layer.
How slowly the insulation absorbs moisture, so long it will be released from it later. Therefore, when laying expanded clay, it is necessary to foresee options for its vapor and moisture protection in advance.
The choice of insulation directly depends on the method of work. There are several ways of external thermal insulation of housing:
The technology of creating ventilated facades involves the installation of insulation directly on the outer surface of the walls with its insulation with an airtight membrane. At a distance of 2-4 cm from the outer membrane, cladding is attached in the form of siding, drywall, etc.
The use of polystyrene in this case becomes unacceptable, since in the presence of a ventilated space, the likelihood of material ignition increases. The advantage of the insulation method is the possibility of laying inexpensive insulators in the form of mineral wool or glass wool, since here the heat insulator does not bear the load of the outer layer.
As for the insulation under the plaster, for this, a heater is laid on the surface of the wall. The insulator is fixed with dowels or glued to a special mixture. A decorative plaster or primer is applied on top.
The method of insulation involves the creation of a three-layer structure, when the selected heat insulator is placed between the wall from the inside and the outer cladding. The inner wall is connected to the outer wall with anchors. The most common heaters here are foam and mineral wool.
This method of thermal insulation of the house is one of the most effective. However, its main disadvantage is the possibility of performing work only in the process of housing construction.
Thermal insulation from the inside of the building is a less preferred option. Since in this case the “dew point” shifts towards the insulation, which leads to its wetting. In addition, with this method of isolation, the area of \u200b\u200brooms is noticeably reduced.
However, there are cases when the creation of an external thermal insulation coating of the walls is impossible. For example, when the wall of a neighboring house is adjacent, or the facade of the building is of cultural value. Therefore, insulation from the inside also has the right to exist.
If the inner plane of the walls will be plastered, mineral wool, ecowool or low flammability foam can act as a heater. Before warming, it is worth once again calculating the likelihood of an abundance of moisture affecting the insulator. With this method of insulation, condensate quickly destroys the insulation, its effectiveness decreases and the likelihood of fungus is high.
What is the best way to insulate a house? The widest choice of heat-insulating materials for home insulation often leads to complete bewilderment of homeowners who dream of living in the most comfortable conditions. Some prefer glass wool with proven practice and time. Others rely exclusively on cutting-edge technology.
Based on the useful properties of common materials, it is rational to use them in competent combinations. So, the most economical and at the same time quite effective solution for insulating the walls of a house will be a combination of the qualities of mineral wool, expanded clay, glass wool and polystyrene. It is better to isolate hard-to-reach places with ecowool, densely filling any irregularities with the composition.
Styrofoam boards are recommended for use in the most humid climates. The material retains its properties for decades under conditions of intense exposure to environmental factors. The components of the heat insulator do not react with chemical atmospheric reagents, which becomes an indispensable quality when insulating houses located in industrial regions.
Many people suffer from cold in their apartments and think about how to insulate the walls. This business can be done at any time, and if there is a major overhaul, then, as they say, God himself ordered. By insulating houses from the inside, we can protect them from frost in winter, as well as from excessive moisture when it starts to rain. Thermal protection is still considered the main criterion for such work. Today, there are materials and technologies that will help you do the work yourself. If the insulation inside the room is carried out qualitatively, then the heating costs become minimal.
Walls in the corner apartments of high-rise buildings and in private houses suffer the most. Having decided to take care of your apartment or house, you need to get acquainted with the features of the work, find out the technological nuances. We will talk about how to insulate the walls from the inside in a private house.
To create comfortable living conditions (preservation of heat, getting rid of damp, moldy surfaces), the walls of houses can be insulated both from the inside and outside, from the side of the facade. The most effective is considered to be internal insulation. Especially:
Taking care of the insulation of the house from the inside, it is necessary to choose the right materials that have a vapor barrier. The work must comply with a special technology, otherwise, instead of insulating a private house or apartment in a high-rise building, you will become the culprit of its destruction: mold will appear due to condensation. The fact is that dew point may form- an increase in humidity in the room, when the heating season begins, leads to the appearance of droplets on the walls, in those places where the joints and seams are not insulated.
If you have to deal with the insulation of walls from the inside, you will have to take care of the choice of material. Special requirements are imposed on thermal insulation materials:
It is these building materials that are used if you need to do internal insulation.
If you decide to do the insulation of a private house from the inside with your own hands, try to learn more about the installation features. In addition to printed articles and Internet materials, you can use video tutorials that show in detail all the steps for installing insulation, both frame methods and frameless. Interested homeowners can visually track all stages of work.
In the case when there are no special building skills, it is best to do the work apply to specialized companies Otherwise, you will have to redo everything, and these are additional material costs. Specialists perform work on insulation efficiently, quickly, observing the technology.
Walls can be insulated with mineral wool. It is used most often, although such material cannot be called an ideal option. The point is that after some time mineral wool begins to absorb moisture, so it is not possible to avoid the appearance of damp places. When working with this material, everything should be done according to the instructions, not forgetting to process the joints. In addition, the walls themselves and the insulation must first be impregnated with antifungal compounds. Only in this way it is possible to extend the operation of the insulation for ten years.
Before insulating with mineral wool, a metal frame is mounted on the wall. Plates are installed in the resulting cells, which must be tamped. The surface must be covered with drywall. When choosing mineral wool, do not forget that the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment will decrease.
Expanded polystyrene has recently gained popularity as a heater. This material has:
Penoplex, another name for expanded polystyrene foam, is an excellent material because it:
The inside of the house can be upholstered with foam. For its installation does not require the installation of a frame. Material produced in the form of panels that simply stick directly to the wall. As an adhesive composition, you can take the one with which ceramic tiles are usually glued.
Glue is applied to the foam, then, slightly pressing, a mesh metal reinforcement is installed. The overlap must be at least 15 centimeters. This layer is then plastered or painted, then wallpaper is pasted. Can be used when finishing ceramic or tile.
Tired of freezing in winter and you decide to insulate your apartment or private house? Please note that the choice of insulation will directly depend on what material the walls themselves are made of.
Perform insulation inside the house, following special rules. High-quality insulation can be done with your own hands, if you listen to the advice of specialists. First of all, it concerns the walls. When preparing them, you need to perform the following types of work:
When preparing the surface, a number of certain preparatory works are performed, which require a special careful approach:
If you decide to start creating comfortable conditions in your private home with your own hands, then it will be much cheaper than the services of specialized companies. On average, per square meter of insulation will have to pay 450 rubles or more. The cost of a square will depend on what material you used for insulation and what additional work you had to do before installing the insulation.
It should be noted that the internal work on the insulation of the house is not always justified. It is better, of course, to do this outside the building. But if its implementation is impossible for various reasons, then the standards fully allow the insulation of walls in the interior of houses.
Of course, for the sake of comfort and warmth will have to sacrifice square meters, since insulating materials “eat up” part of the area due to their volumes. But, as they say, it is better to live in a slightly reduced house than in cold and damp.
Perhaps modern technologies will soon make it possible to make houses warm, saving space and at the same time getting rid of condensate. So far, it is the technologies and materials listed above that make it possible to solve the existing problems with heat preservation in a private house.
Each owner has his own, individual requirements for how his house or apartment should be. The exception to the rule is heat. Especially in the cold season, when the air temperature outside goes to minus.
With the fact that housing should not only be beautiful, but also capable of maintaining a comfortable temperature even with a big minus, everyone agrees without exception.
The reason for this unanimity lies not only in the desire to avoid the need to be at home in warm clothes that hinder movement.
The main troubles following the freezing of the walls are condensate, mold and fungi that affect the health of residents.
In addition, the walls themselves suffer. If mold and fungus can be eliminated, then restore the quality of the affected wall succeeds not always.
The way out of the situation is internal wall insulation, protection from the cold during frost, and from condensate during periods of thaw.
Usually the culprit decrease in comfortable temperature level indoors are heating systems, poorly insulated windows, or the roof of the house. If the heating, windows and roofing are normal, then the problem is really in freezing walls that require additional thermal insulation.
The indisputable advantages of internal protection of walls from freezing include:
The disadvantages include:
Despite the fact that the option of internal insulation seems, at first glance, the most effective and profitable, experts recommend resorting to it only in the most extreme cases if there is no other way out.
If the operating organization promises to carry out external insulation for years, but the residents do not have their own funds, then everything that is not recommended can be done, since is not strictly prohibited.
A significant minus of mineral wool - ability to absorb moisture. The resulting dampness is an excellent breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria. In addition, excess water reduces thermal engineering priorities.
For a panel house, for example, the choice in favor of mineral wool will not be the most successful. However, in the event that it is necessary to insulate the walls of a wooden structure, it is better not to find mineral wool.
This natural organic material is capable of spontaneously remove the resulting steam behind the building outline, protecting the wood used for construction.
Styrofoam
One of the most important characteristics of insulating materials - moisture resistance and low specific gravity.
If mineral wool cannot boast of the ability to withstand moisture, then expanded polystyrene, both foamed and extruded (EPS), is quite satisfies the requirement.
The advantages of the material also include a small specific gravity of the sheets and the absence of the need to install a metal frame.
All it takes is insulation of sheet joints polystyrene foam and walls through the use of polyurethane wool.
The sheets of expanded polystyrene themselves are attached to the wall with glue or dowels.
Styrofoam
Obtained by foaming a suspension polymer.
It has a specific structural structure, which determines its high strength and duration of service life, exceeding the similar characteristic of popular mineral wool.
Polyfoam, despite its high popularity, has both significant pluses and minuses.
Pros:
- high resistance to moisture;
- excellent thermal insulation properties;
- resistant to mold and fungus;
- easy to handle and install;
- easy;
- additional waterproofing is not required;
- has high resistance to temperature extremes, heat, frost;
- provides good sound insulation;
- cheap.
Minuses:
- needs protection from mechanical damage due to limited mechanical strength;
- does not pass air;
- fire hazardous;
- interaction with nitro-paints and nitro-varnishes should not be allowed;
polyurethane foam
This material is considered a leader among modern heaters due to its reliability. Among the disadvantages of polyurethane foam are noted the need to install frames.
Taking extra security measures in connection with the application of a liquid two-component substance by spraying, as well as plastering with the additional use of nylon nets.
Among the advantages of polyurethane foam: high moisture resistance, minimum curing time, no need to use fasteners.
glass wool
The characteristics are similar to mineral wool. The advantages include a lower cost than mineral wool. The main downside is shrinkage over time. In addition, glass wool is characterized by high fragility of the fibers. This complicates installation and requires careful observance of safety regulations.
Environmentally friendly materials
We are talking about such unusual materials as straw, reeds, gypsum panels. Despite difficulty in purchasing and the search for a work contractor, this option of heaters is becoming more and more popular.
But if there is no particular desire to search for material and an artist, then you can use at least environmentally friendly materials- cork insulation or fibrolite, which is made from wood chips.
In this article, you can learn how to soundproof walls in an apartment.
Criterias of choice
In order to choose the most successful version of the insulation intended for internal wall insulation, it is necessary first of all pay attention to the following characteristics:
- Resistance to high temperatures and open flame (fire safety).
- Low thermal conductivity, preventing the outflow of heat from the room.
- Safety (absence of toxic substances and toxic impurities).
- Durability and the ability to keep the original shape for a long time.
- Resistant to moisture and aggressive substances.
Also an important role is played by the material from which the walls are made, and its characteristics.
If the walls are planned to be plastered, then it is best to insulate them with extruded polystyrene foam. Peculiarity - the flammability group of EPPS should not exceed G1.
The choice in favor of expanded polystyrene is also justified minimal usable space.
If the walls are sheathed with drywall, then they can be insulated with mineral wool and other soft insulation, with the obligatory laying of a vapor barrier layer.
It is not recommended to insulate walls in panel houses with foam plastic, due to its high flammability and ability to store moisture.
The main task of the internal insulation of a house made of foam blocks is to provide vapor barrier of thermal insulation material on both sides. Also must be trimmed(second wall). For this purpose, drywall or lining is used.
Accordingly, soft cotton insulation or polystyrene foam will not work. It is best to use polyurethane foam, foam plastic and polystyrene foam.
The wooden house is made of environmentally friendly material, and the choice of insulation is guided precisely by this characteristic. The best option for warming the wooden walls of a private house is laying ecowool. It is also possible to use polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam, which cannot be said about polystyrene foam.
Expanded polystyrene during operation begins to release carcinogenic substances harmful to humans and animals.
Mineral wool is well suited for warming the apartment, if space permits. You can also use foam, provided that a layer of liquid waterproofing is first applied to the prepared wall surface.
However, foam, like foam or foil foam, refers to waterproof materials, increasing the risk of mold and mildew.
Cork material, warm plaster or fiberboard is excellent for insulating the walls of an apartment. This is only a small part of the insulation materials available for sale, so the choice must be made. based on the characteristics of the outer wall of the apartment, as well as options for finishing the room.
How to insulate walls with your own hands?
The algorithm for insulating walls in an apartment from the inside depends on the type of house and the selected insulation. However the main stages of work remain unchanged for any options:
Insulation of walls from the inside with foam: video instruction.
Insulation plaster
Protective leveling layer on the surface of polystyrene insulation created with reinforcing mesh and a special mass designed for this type of material.
Grid, which does not allow the decorative coating to deform in the future, is glued with a thin layer of plaster. Then a thin leveling layer is applied universal weight. The treated surface is left to dry for at least a day.
After drying, the surface can be rubbed. After rubbing, the treated surface is primed. The last stage of work is decoration.
Most of the constructed panel and brick houses did not provide for the insulation of facades. Concrete and brick have high density and low thermal insulation properties. The result is cold walls and uncomfortable temperatures. There are several ways to insulate from the inside, the main thing is to avoid the appearance of dampness.
A cold wall is not the only drawback of panel or brick houses. Often dampness and accompanying fungus and mold appear on it. The best way to fight is to insulate the wall from the outside (this is also a requirement of SNiP), but this is not always possible. Therefore, you have to fight the cold wall, insulating it from the inside. But there are pitfalls here.
Even if the cold wall was previously dry, then when it is insulated from the inside, dampness may appear. And the so-called dew point will be to blame.
The dew point is a conditional boundary at which the temperature of water vapor becomes equal to the temperature of condensate formation. It manifests itself, naturally, in the cold season. With proper design of the house (taking into account the characteristics of the region), it is approximately in the middle of the thickness of the facade of a material of uniform density.
If insulation is carried out from the outside, then the dew point shifts in the direction of decreasing density (that is, to the outer surface of the wall). When insulating from the inside, it moves inward, and condensate may appear on the surface of the main wall or inside the insulation.
And in order to assess the scale of possible damage, it is enough to say that as a result of the life of one person, about 4 liters of water evaporate per day (cooking, wet cleaning, personal hygiene, washing, etc.).
There are several ways to prevent condensation on a wall insulated from the inside:
PPU insulation meets all requirements for vapor barrier, water absorption and the absence of seams. Therefore, even if there is a dew point inside the layer, it will remain “conditional”, since there is no condensation in vapor-tight materials. It turns out from the side of the room a completely sealed heat-insulating layer.
The environmental friendliness of PPU after curing meets the requirements for residential premises. Harmful fumes are present only when the components are mixed during the spraying process - after polymerization, the structure of the material remains stable.
Thermal insulation is applied between the crate and sewn up with moisture-resistant sheet materials (GKL, OSB or plywood). In fact, it is like a large prefabricated sandwich panel.
The disadvantage of this method is the use of special equipment.
This is a relatively young heat-insulating material, the action of which is based on the use of two principles - the creation of a thin layer with high resistance to heat transfer and the reflection of heat towards the radiation source.
Of course, a thin heat-insulating layer cannot provide good thermal insulation - this is an auxiliary, but a mandatory factor. Although it gives a fairly high effect - the wall becomes much "warmer" to the touch.
The main task of reducing heat loss is performed by microscopic ceramic spheres that reflect infrared radiation.
According to the manufacturers, the effect of a 1.5 mm layer can be compared with thermal insulation with 5 cm thick foam plastic or 6.5 cm mineral wool.
The method of application is the same as for acrylic paint (the base is the same). After polymerization, a dense and durable film is formed on the surface, and latex additives improve the waterproofing properties.
Penofol is a combination of polyethylene foam with aluminum foil. This is a whole series of materials (including single-sided, double-sided, laminated, with an adhesive layer). Moreover, it can be used both in combination with other heat-insulating materials, and independently. By the way, penofol is popular for warming the bath from the inside, and there is much more steam there than in an ordinary residential area.
To insulate a cold wall, foam foam is used with one layer of foil (one-sided) and up to 5 mm thick.
In the case, as with liquid ceramics, the effect is achieved due to the low thermal conductivity of foamed polyethylene, as well as its low vapor permeability and high reflective properties of the foil (up to 97%).
But unlike seamless coatings, complete sealing and prevention of cold bridges cannot be achieved. Consequently, condensation may form on the surface of the foil. Even the obligatory sealing of joints with adhesive aluminum foil will still leave gaps inside between adjacent sheets.
The method of combating the formation of condensate on the foil is traditional - a crate with a ventilated gap between the foam and the outer lining.
Another version of polyethylene foam, but already made in the form of a kind of wallpaper - there is a layer of paper on both sides. Polyfoam and is designed for gluing wallpaper on it.
Of course, its thermal insulation properties are not as high as those of penofol, but to make a cold wall feel warmer to the touch, they are quite enough.
In most cases, the insignificant thickness of the insulation does not lead to the dew point moving to the inner surface.
The disadvantage of this method is that only a dry wall is insulated.
Expanded polystyrene (or extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to a prepared and leveled wall. Both materials have very low water absorption (especially extruded polystyrene foam), so the formation of condensate in the insulation layer is excluded. The main danger is its appearance on the surface of the insulated wall.
Therefore, it is best to glue sheets on special hydrophobic adhesive mixtures applied over the entire surface of the sheets. And to prevent the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room, treat the seams with a sealant (you can also use foam plastic with a step or a tenon-groove connection).
Finishing can be done in two ways:
Mineral wool does not meet the requirements for vapor permeability and water absorption for insulation from the inside. But it can be used.
The main thing is to provide maximum protection from moist air from the side of the room and the weathering of water vapor from the insulation layer. That is, to perform a ventilated facade, but in the reverse order: wall, gap, vapor-permeable membrane, mineral wool, vapor barrier film, decorative cladding indoors.
It is necessary to create a false wall at a distance of 2-3 cm from the main wall. And to weather the water vapor from below and above, make ventilation holes.
After the introduction of a new standard for the thermal protection of buildings, insulation has become relevant even for those houses that were previously considered “safe”. Owners of older buildings can do nothing but be prepared to pay rising energy bills. And the projects of new houses will not be approved if they do not meet the requirements of SNiP 23-02-2003. There are several technologies that allow you to provide regulatory performance for buildings from any materials. The main thing is to choose the right insulation for the walls of the house outside in each case.
The house must be kept warm Source prolesa.com.ua
The most understandable argument for a non-specialist sounds very convincing, although this is a secondary factor - insulation from the inside “takes away” the usable volume of residential and office premises.
Builders are guided by the standard, according to which the insulation must be external (SP 23-101-2004). Warming from the inside is not directly prohibited, but it can be carried out only in exceptional cases. For example, when it is impossible to carry out work outside due to structural features or the facade “belongs” to the house, which belongs to architectural monuments.
The result of proper internal insulation of the house on the video:
Internal wall insulation is allowed provided that a durable and continuous vapor-tight layer is created from the side of the room. But this is not easy to do, and if warm air with water vapor gets into the insulation or onto the surface of a cold wall, then condensation is inevitable. And the reason for this is the “dew point”, which will move either inside the layer of heat-insulating material, or to the border between it and the wall.
Even such protection from the inside will not provide a 100% guarantee against wetting the wall - water vapor will find a “way” at the joints of the film and attachment points Source domvpavlino.ru
That is, when deciding how to properly insulate a house, in the vast majority of cases, the answer will be based on clear regulatory recommendations - from the outside.
From a large list of thermal insulation materials, several of the most popular and those that are used if the budget allows or for other reasons can be distinguished. Traditionally, the popularity of materials is determined by a combination of good thermal insulation characteristics and relatively low cost.
Better known as "styrofoam". To be precise, in addition to plates, this material is also used in granular form as bulk thermal insulation.
Its thermal conductivity depends on density, but on average it is one of the lowest in its class. Thermal insulation properties are provided by a cellular structure filled with air. Popularity is explained by availability, ease of installation, good compressive strength, low water absorption. That is, it is cheap, quite durable (as part of the structure) and is not afraid of water.
Styrofoam is considered low-flammable, and with the marking PSB-S - self-extinguishing (does not support combustion). But in case of fire, it emits toxic gases, and this is one of the main reasons why it cannot be used for insulation from the inside. Its second drawback is low vapor permeability, which imposes restrictions on the use of "breathable" materials for insulating walls.
Insulation of the wall of the house outside with foam plastic Source makemone.ru
It differs from polystyrene in a fundamentally different manufacturing technology, although the same polystyrene granules serve as raw materials. In some respects, it surpasses its "relative". It has the same percentage of water absorption (no more than 2%), an average of 20-30% lower thermal conductivity (table D.1 SP 23-101-2004), several times lower vapor permeability and higher compressive strength. Thanks to this set of qualities, it is the best material for insulating the foundation and basement, that is, the walls of the basement and the "zero" floor. The disadvantages of EPPS are the same as those of polystyrene, and it costs more.
XPS is usually made "colored" Source footing.ru
This is a subspecies of mineral wool, the raw material of which is rocks of stone (most often basalt). A completely different type of thermal insulation material, the low thermal conductivity of which is ensured by the fibrous structure and low density. It is inferior to foam plastic and EPPS in terms of thermal conductivity (on average 1.5 times higher), but unlike them, it does not burn and does not smolder (combustibility class NG). Refers to "breathable" materials - according to the new standard, this sounds like low "breathing resistance".
Mineral wool mats for wall insulation should be “hard” Source konveyt.ru
But there are other materials for warming the house from the outside, which, although they are used less often, have their own advantages.
Additionally, you can always consider new options - they are slightly more expensive, but often somewhat more effective than traditional ones.
A common polymeric material for "household purposes". Also well known as furniture foam (in the form of "soft" mats) or as a gap-filling foam. When insulating, it is also used in the form of plates or sprayed insulation.
Polyurethane foam boards have low tear holding capacity, so it is not used in wet facade systems.
But it is a common heat-insulating material for the manufacture of sandwich panels. The same technology underlies the production of thermal panels for facade cladding. Such a panel is a heat-insulating plate with a decorative layer already applied at the factory (clinker tiles or stone chips). Two types of insulation: polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. In the first case, the thermal panel is two-layer, in the second - three-layer (OSB or moisture-resistant plywood is used as the supporting base). Two mounting options: on dowels / anchors (open method) or on your hidden fastening system.
Three-layer thermal panel
Sprayed polyurethane foam is in demand if it is necessary to create a seamless layer of thermal insulation on complex surfaces. Until recently, there was the only technology for applying such a layer - using professional installations working with a two-component composition (mixing occurs during spraying).
PPU spraying on the basement of the house Source nauka-i-religia.ru
Now in Russia, for domestic use, the production of one-component polyurethane foam has been launched, which is produced in an aerosol can with a capacity of 1 liter. As the manufacturers assure (there are two competing companies), do-it-yourself insulation of 1 m2 is much cheaper than when concluding an agreement with specialized enterprises using professional equipment. And this option than to insulate the house from the outside is quite attractive, if literally 2-3 cm of the heat-insulating layer is missing.
Warming with sprayed PPU "Teplis" Source m.2gis.kz
Relatively new thermal insulation material. The technology of insulation of enclosing surfaces is based on cellulose fiber material, which is applied to the walls using a special installation. There are two options for insulation: filling the plane between the wall and the cladding, spraying with an adhesive binder on the wall with the crate installed (and subsequent installation of facade panels).
Of the traditional materials, glass wool (a subspecies of mineral wool) can be mentioned, but due to brittleness and the formation of the smallest “dust” with sharp edges during installation, it was replaced by stone wool, which is safe both during installation and during operation.
If you follow the regulatory documents, there are two options for insulating a house from the outside in terms of the number of structural and heat-insulating layers: two-layer and three-layer. Moreover, in the second case, the exterior paneling or plaster is not considered an independent layer, although their thermal insulation properties are taken into account. In three-layer walls, the structural material acts as the outer (third) layer.
Brick cladding with insulation Source pinterest.ru
In addition to this classification, there is also a division according to the presence of a ventilated and non-ventilated layer.
In practice, for the insulation of low-rise buildings, such a variety of solutions comes down to a choice between a “wet” or hinged facade. Although, as heat-insulating materials, they consider exactly those recommended by the standard - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene (EPS as an alternative).
But each case has its own preferences.
Clearly about the choice of how to insulate the house from the outside in the video:
There are no restrictions on the choice of technology for insulating a brick house. Different options can be considered only depending on the chosen method of finishing the facade:
Wet facade scheme Source deskgram.net
Scheme of a ventilated facade Source sk-optimus.com.ua
Wooden houses (log or timber) are insulated exclusively with mineral wool using the hinged facade technology.
For them, you can find examples of the use of expanded polystyrene and plaster using the "wet facade" method. In this case, a ventilated gap is made between the wall and the foam plates using a remote crate. Although this loses the main advantage of the "wet facade" - the simplicity of design and installation.
If you “flip through” offhand SP23-101-2004 or similar in content, but a later set of rules SP 50.13330.2012, you can see that it is not so easy to calculate the thickness of the insulation.
Each building is "individual". During the development of the project and its approval, such a thermal calculation is done by specialists. And here a whole range of parameters is taken into account - the characteristics of the region (temperatures, the duration of the heated season, the average number of sunny days), the type and area of \u200b\u200bglazing of the house, the heat capacity of the floor covering, the thermal insulation of the roof and basement. Even the number of metal bonds between the wall and the cladding matters.
But if the owner of a previously built house decides to insulate it (and the new norms introduced in 2003 are much tougher than the old ones), then he will have to choose between three parameters of the "standard thickness" of insulation - 50, 100 and 150 mm. And there is no need for precision calculations. There is such a scheme, which shows the equivalent dimensions of the thickness of different materials (in average form), the wall of which will meet the new requirements for thermal protection.
Only a house made of aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 45 cm does not need insulation Source legkovmeste.ru
And then it's simple. They take the thickness of the wall from a certain material, see how much is missing from the standard. And then they calculate in proportion what thickness of the insulation layer of the wall of the house from the outside should be added. Taking into account that the wet facade has another layer of plaster, while the ventilated facade has an air gap, plus the interior decoration of the facade walls, you can be sure of sufficient thermal protection.
And the issue of roof insulation, floors and the choice of good windows is decided separately.
Even easier is to use one of the many online calculators. The figure here, of course, is approximate, but rounded up to the nearest standard insulation thickness, it will give the required result.
Before installation, the facade must be prepared: cleaned of old finishes, removed dirt and dust, dismantled hinged elements of engineering systems, removed ebbs and visors (you still have to change to wider ones), remove signs, plates and facade lamps. Then the surface of the wall must be strengthened - cracks and chips should be repaired, crumbling areas should be cleaned, a deep penetration primer should be applied.
Applying a primer composition Source rmnt.ru
For reliable fastening of expanded polystyrene or rigid mineral wool mats in the wet facade system, the wall surface must be as even as the unevenness can be leveled with adhesive mortar. With a height difference of up to 5 mm, the solution is applied over the entire insulation slab, with irregularities from 5 to 20 mm - along the perimeter and in the form of "cakes" on 40% of the slab surface.
The first row of plates is mounted with emphasis on the starting bar, which also sets the horizontal level. The second and subsequent rows are set with a shift of the vertical seam (at least 200 mm), leveling the surface of the insulation in the area of \u200b\u200bthe joints so that the height difference is no more than 3 mm. When insulating the walls around the openings, make sure that the seams of the plates do not intersect in their corners. Each plate is additionally fixed with umbrella dowels at the rate of 5 pcs. per 1 m2.
The surface of the plates before applying the plaster is reinforced with fiberglass, fixed in the middle of the layer of adhesive solution with a total thickness of 5-6 mm.
The density of expanded polystyrene is chosen equal to 25-35 kg/m3.
Visually about the insulation of mineral wool in the video:
Mineral wool mats of Russian brands for the “wet facade” system must comply with index 175, imported ones must be labeled “facade” and have a density above 125 kg / m3.
Attention. In the "wet facade" system, the insulation is mounted in only one (!) layer. The vertical surface of two layers of "soft" slabs with a load in the form of plaster behaves unpredictably, especially with changes in temperature and humidity conditions. Do not be deluded by the arguments that the second layer of plates overlaps the seams of the first and eliminates "cold bridges".
Rigid mineral wool mats with a density of 80 kg/m3 or more are used in the ventilated facade. If the surface of the mats is not laminated, then after they are attached to the crate, the surface is covered with either fiberglass or a vapor-permeable membrane.
The step of laying out the crate is chosen 2-3 cm less than the width of the mats. In addition to fastening to the crate, the insulation is additionally fixed to the wall with dowels-umbrellas.
The size of the air gap between the insulation and the cladding should be in the range of 60-150 mm.
Important. Size 40 mm is standardized for non-ventilated air gaps.
For ventilation of the layer in the cladding, inlets are arranged in the area of \u200b\u200bthe basement and outlets - under the roof eaves. The total area of the holes must be at least 75 cm2 per 20 m2 of the wall.
Ventilation grilles in the wall Source tproekt.com
Home insulation is a profitable investment even in the short term. Invested funds will quickly pay off due to lower heating and air conditioning costs.
Our website also lists companies specializing in facade and finishing materials, which are presented at the exhibition of houses Low-rise Country.