How to make holes for pipes in different places. How to cut a profiled sheet for a round pipe What you need to know

20.06.2020 alternative energy

The smoke exhaust structure is an element that is characterized by an increased fire hazard, therefore, solving the problem of how to make a hole in the roof for a pipe should be approached responsibly. It is also important to protect the roof from moisture penetration, otherwise its service life will be significantly reduced.

Corrugated roofs deservedly enjoy the trust of the owners of private houses, because they have:

a light weight;
long operating period;
appearance, reminiscent of the relief of ceramic tiles.

Decking is thin, durable and corrosion-resistant metal sheets that are coated with paint and pressed into the desired shape. After installing stoves or heating boilers, it is necessary to make a passage for the chimney through the roof structure.

Every homeowner must understand how to get the pipe through the roof from the corrugated board. Even if this work is done by professionals, it will not hurt to control the result.

Types of chimney structures

The chimney pipe is used to remove smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere. It is a hollow cylinder.

To organize this process, stove-makers build:

brick chimneys. The smoke exhaust system is created from heat-resistant bricks, which are produced using a special technology specifically for arranging furnaces. The pipe in this case has a section of a rectangular or square shape. This method of getting rid of smoke is expensive, but it is more durable and safer. Its main disadvantage is the porous inner surface - for this reason, soot and dust are deposited on it in large quantities. If the pipe is not cleaned regularly, soot layers can completely or partially clog it, the traction force will decrease, and the risk of fire will increase. The process of how to bring the chimney through the roof from corrugated board is complicated and therefore it is better not to do this work with your own hands - it should be done by experienced stove-makers.
Metal chimney systems. To assemble the structure of the required configuration, you need to purchase stainless steel pipes with the addition of zinc or molybdenum. Then insert the segments one into the other - you will need straight tubular products, clamps and bends. Due to the slippery inner surface, soot cannot accumulate, which means that smoke can move freely up outside the house. The disadvantage of this method is that the metal does not retain heat well enough compared to the brick, as a result of which condensation collects on it, since there is a temperature difference between the pipe and the air outside. The metal chimney structure can be easily brought to the roof, because it consists of individual elements.

Chimney outlet - how to cut a hole

Before cutting a hole for a pipe in a profiled sheet, you should choose a convenient place for this. The decisive factor here is the location of the furnace unit.

According to professionals, the chimney should be placed strictly vertically, taking into account some of the nuances:

It is advisable to make a hole for the exit of the chimney pipe at the highest point of the roof, which means closer to the ridge. The optimal distance from it to the chimney is 50-80 centimeters.
Before making a hole for the pipe in the corrugated board, you should make sure that it does not fall on the elements of the rafter system. To get around them, bends are used, with the help of which they set a turn of 45 or 90 degrees.
The length of the chimney segments is selected so that the joints between them are below or above the intersections of the roof and ceilings, otherwise a high-quality connection will not work.
It will be possible to achieve the required level of thrust if the height of the chimney structure exceeds this parameter at the ridge by 1–1.5 meters.
To make sure that the exit point is determined correctly, it is circled on the roof with a marker and the temperature in it is checked at the end of the day. The pipe must be in the cold zone at all times.

Preparatory measures for the removal of the chimney through the roof

There is the following technology, how to make a hole in a profiled sheet for a pipe:

First, a permanent marker marks the place of its removal to the roof.
The size of the section of the chimney elements is selected taking into account the recommendations of the manufacturer of the heating unit. The thicker and higher the pipe, the easier the smoke comes out of the oven. The main thing is that when connecting between the elements there is no gap.
A hole is cut out with a grinder with a thin blade for metal work, stepping back a few centimeters from the drawn line. The corrugated board must be cut carefully and slowly so that the cut edge is without jags.
Short cuts are made in the corners of the holes so that the edges of the corrugated board are bent up.
A similar passage is made in the ceiling. Then a metal box is installed, designed to connect the pipe to the rafters. The chimney is laid through the hole inside the box.
Hydro and vapor barrier material, as well as insulation, are removed from the outlet cut out in the roof.

For cold areas, where the thickness of the heat-insulating material is more than 15 centimeters, it is necessary to use sandwich pipes with two layers of metal and a layer of insulation between them.

How to remove a pipe on a roof from corrugated board

When the preparation for how to bring the chimney through the corrugated board is completed, it should be properly connected and the chimney put into operation, for which:

It is necessary to insert the pipe through the hole in the box and direct it towards the roof, and fix the edges of the waterproofing material with adhesive tape on the surface of the chimney.
Expanded clay is densely poured into the box or mineral wool is used.
A rubber or silicone seal is put on the pipe to protect the outlet from water seepage. To improve waterproofing, glue the sealant to the corrugated board using a fire-resistant sealant.
The smoke exhaust structure is extended in segments to the required height, while the joints are tightened with galvanized steel clamps.
An external apron is installed, having the color of the roofing, which will close the box and rubber seal.

When bringing the chimney to the roof, it must be remembered that neglect of such work can result in a fire and material losses.

There is a need for their wiring through various obstacles, such as walls, floors and other elements of building structures.

But before making holes for the pipe, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the known methods for implementing such operations, which often affect not only the supporting structures of the building, but also their decoration. In the specific conditions of laying a pipeline, a variety of methods can be used, which are supposed to be considered in our article.

What do you need to know?

The arrangement of holes in load-bearing walls and partitions requires compliance with the known requirements laid down in the current building codes. When preparing them, it is necessary to carefully monitor that such critical elements of building structures and communications are not damaged, which are:

reinforcing and barrage gratings;
electrical wiring lines;
elements of the ventilation system (if any).

In addition, the hole prepared in the wall or floor should provide the possibility of placing a special protective sleeve in it, which, if necessary, can be insulated with any non-combustible material (mineral wool, for example).

General order of work

As for the main working tool, for the purposes indicated by us, a hammer drill is usually used, or a fairly powerful impact drill with a “crown” type nozzle, with which you can make holes of various diameters. The order of their preparation in this case is as follows:

first, a circle is marked in the right place on the wall, the diameter of which is equal to the cross section of the pipe (together with the sleeve);
then, using a crown of the appropriate size, a hole is drilled in the wall;
when the nozzle “slips”, a punch and a hammer will be required, using which it will be possible to destroy the material in a place that cannot be drilled;
after that, it will be possible to continue working until the finished hole is obtained.

To cut complex holes in certain materials, it will be necessary to prepare a set of crowns of various sizes. For drilling partitions made of drywall, foam concrete, as well as wooden walls, you can use ordinary steel drills.

Note! In the event that it is necessary to drill a hole in concrete, a set of special pobedit drills will be required. With their help, you can work with materials with a thickness of 10-15 cm.

Working with complex coatings

Note! The main problem when working with tiled surfaces (in bathrooms, toilets and kitchens) is the fragility of the facing material, to preserve which it is recommended to drill in a non-impact mode.

When preparing holes of large diameter, it will be possible to use the following techniques:

use a special diamond "crown" as a nozzle, when using which the drill should work in low speed mode;
use a special device called a ballerina;
in order to exclude the possibility of slipping of the teeth of the nozzle or the tip of the ballerina from the surface of the tile, which is smooth and covered with a layer of hard glaze, the latter is preliminarily scratched with a file or sealed with a piece of masking tape.

To make holes in a tile, a simpler and cheaper, but more risky method is often used, which consists in the following. First, using a conventional drill with a diameter of 3–4 mm, several holes are drilled inside the marked circle. Then the gaps between these holes are carefully destroyed and removed with a well-sharpened chisel. And at the end of the work, using the same chisel, the edges of the hole expand to a predetermined size.

Preparation of holes in the floor

The procedure for preparing the marked holes depends both on the type of the sexual base itself, and on the type of decorative coating laid on top of it.

Before starting work, first of all, you should decide whether it is possible to remove by cutting or disassembling a section of the decorative coating in the places where pipes are laid. If it is impossible to perform these operations, a hole in the finishing material (in a tile, for example), as well as in the floor base itself, is made using the methods already described earlier.

Video

Cutting a large hole for a chimney is difficult at once. The author of the video shows how to do this by drilling small holes in a circle. Further, this will help to cut a hole of the desired diameter with a crown:

Corrugated roofs deservedly enjoy the trust of the owners of private houses, because they have:

a light weight;
long operating period;
appearance, reminiscent of the relief of ceramic tiles.

Every homeowner must understand how to get the pipe through the roof from the corrugated board. Even if this work is done by professionals, it will not hurt to control the result.

Types of chimney structures

The chimney pipe is used to remove smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere. It is a hollow cylinder.

To organize this process, stove-makers build:

brick chimneys. The smoke exhaust system is created from heat-resistant bricks, which are produced using a special technology specifically for arranging furnaces. The pipe in this case has a section of a rectangular or square shape. This method of getting rid of smoke is expensive, but it is more durable and safer. Its main disadvantage is the porous inner surface - for this reason, soot and dust are deposited on it in large quantities. If the pipe is not cleaned regularly, soot layers can completely or partially clog it, the traction force will decrease, and the risk of fire will increase. The process of how to bring the chimney through the roof from corrugated board is complicated and therefore it is better not to do this work with your own hands - it should be done by experienced stove-makers.
Metal chimney systems. To assemble the structure of the required configuration, you need to purchase stainless steel pipes with the addition of zinc or molybdenum. Then insert the segments one into the other - you will need straight tubular products, clamps and bends. Due to the slippery inner surface, soot cannot accumulate, which means that smoke can move freely up outside the house. The disadvantage of this method is that the metal does not retain heat well enough compared to the brick, as a result of which condensation collects on it, since there is a temperature difference between the pipe and the air outside. The metal chimney structure can be easily brought to the roof, because it consists of individual elements.

Chimney outlet - how to cut a hole

Before cutting a hole for a pipe in a profiled sheet, you should choose a convenient place for this. The decisive factor here is the location of the furnace unit.

According to professionals, the chimney should be placed strictly vertically, taking into account some of the nuances:

It is advisable to make a hole for the exit of the chimney pipe at the highest point of the roof, which means closer to the ridge. The optimal distance from it to the chimney is 50-80 centimeters.
Before making a hole for the pipe in the corrugated board, you should make sure that it does not fall on the elements of the rafter system. To get around them, bends are used, with the help of which they set a turn of 45 or 90 degrees.
The length of the chimney segments is selected so that the joints between them are below or above the intersections of the roof and ceilings, otherwise a high-quality connection will not work.
It will be possible to achieve the required level of thrust if the height of the chimney structure exceeds this parameter at the ridge by 1–1.5 meters.
To make sure that the exit point is determined correctly, it is circled on the roof with a marker and the temperature in it is checked at the end of the day. The pipe must be in the cold zone at all times.

Preparatory measures for the removal of the chimney through the roof

There is the following technology, how to make a hole in a profiled sheet for a pipe:

First, a permanent marker marks the place of its removal to the roof.
The size of the section of the chimney elements is selected taking into account the recommendations of the manufacturer of the heating unit. The thicker and higher the pipe, the easier the smoke comes out of the oven. The main thing is that when connecting between the elements there is no gap.
A hole is cut out with a grinder with a thin blade for metal work, stepping back a few centimeters from the drawn line. The corrugated board must be cut carefully and slowly so that the cut edge is without jags.
Short cuts are made in the corners of the holes so that the edges of the corrugated board are bent up.
A similar passage is made in the ceiling. Then a metal box is installed, designed to connect the pipe to the rafters. The chimney is laid through the hole inside the box.
Hydro and vapor barrier material, as well as insulation, are removed from the outlet cut out in the roof.

For cold areas, where the thickness of the heat-insulating material is more than 15 centimeters, it is necessary to use sandwich pipes with two layers of metal and a layer of insulation between them.

How to remove a pipe on a roof from corrugated board

When the preparation for how to bring the chimney through the corrugated board is completed, it should be properly connected and the chimney put into operation, for which:

It is necessary to insert the pipe through the hole in the box and direct it towards the roof, and fix the edges of the waterproofing material with adhesive tape on the surface of the chimney.
Expanded clay is densely poured into the box or mineral wool is used.
A rubber or silicone seal is put on the pipe to protect the outlet from water seepage. To improve waterproofing, glue the sealant to the corrugated board using a fire-resistant sealant.
The smoke exhaust structure is extended in segments to the required height, while the joints are tightened with galvanized steel clamps.
An external apron is installed, having the color of the roofing, which will close the box and rubber seal.

When bringing the chimney to the roof, it must be remembered that neglect of such work can result in a fire and material losses.

What is the danger of poor-quality waterproofing and how to bring the pipe through the roof from corrugated board

The chimney is fire hazard element, therefore, it is important to responsibly approach the processes of its withdrawal to the roof from corrugated board and isolation from the contents of the roofing pie.

Important is also protection of the pipe against moisture penetration, which can significantly reduce the life of the roof.

In this article, we will take a closer look at how to wrap a pipe on a roof with corrugated board and analyze waterproofing issues.

Varieties

Elements differ from each other according to the material of manufacture:

Brick chimneys. This is the classic version differs in reliability and undemanding to finishing. For the production of products used red brick. For laying bricks, it is necessary to use a special refractory mortar. Lime mortar works well.
Steel chimneys. This is a budget option, which is characterized by ease of installation, low weight and a large selection of section sizes. But steel pipes burn out quickly, their safe service life is relatively low.
Sandwiches. These chimneys consist of several metal pipes of different sizes placed inside each other. Between them are layers of thermal insulation. Sandwiches retain the advantages of simple steel chimneys, but are devoid of their disadvantages. The main disadvantages of such structures are the high price and the possibility of depressurization during sudden temperature changes, which can lead the pipe to complete disrepair.
Modular chimneys. Like sandwiches, these chimneys are multi-layered. They consist of layers of metal and refractory clay (chamotte). Between them is a layer of basalt insulation. The pipe body is made of lightweight concrete. If the clay layer is inside, then the chimneys are called fireclay, if there is a metal pipe inside, then the design is called modular.

There are complex design options for pipes, the production and installation of which cost a lot of money. They are rarely used in construction. This includes glass structures.

Location selection

The most optimal place for the outlet of the pipe is the space near the roof ridge, located at a distance of 50-80 from its highest point. This is due to a number of considerations:

The closer to the roof overhang the pipe is, the greater the snow load falls on it. and also increases the amount of flowing water.
The higher the pipe is, the smaller part of it will be located in the cold air zone. This will reduce the amount of condensation that forms., will slow down the accumulation of soot and dust.

It is possible to install the pipe directly along the top line of the ridge. This will eliminate the possibility of creating snow pockets, minimizing condensation and leakage. But such a design violates the integrity of the ridge run.

Choosing a place for a pipe

Installation of a pipe in areas close to the edge of the slopes is not excluded. But then it will require large costs for its sealing.

How to bring a pipe through a roof from corrugated board

In a sheet of corrugated board that will surround the chimney, outlined contours with length and width parameters corresponding to the dimensions of the chimney. Then, using a grinder, you need to cut a hole with a slight indent from the contours.

Also holes are made in the elements of the roofing pie, when calculating their width, it is necessary to take into account not only the dimensions of the pipe itself, but also the dimensions of the protective box that will separate the chimney from the contents of the cake. The crate at the junction must be continuous.
How to make a pipe pass through a corrugated roof? The pipe must be tightly surrounded by outer and inner aprons.. The inner apron is located under the sheets of corrugated board (with the exception of the part that fits the pipe walls), it is attached to the crate. A stainless steel groove extends from it, which should go around the chimney on all sides and go directly to the ends of the slopes to the cornice strip. Precipitation and condensate will flow down it.
If the pipe is made of brick, then the edges of the apron adjacent to it must be bent at the ends and brought into the strobes. Strobs are small holes in bricks (but not in the seams between them), which are made with a grinder.

Under the bottom apron there should be a layer of waterproofing. Waterproofing a pipe on a corrugated roof is carried out in the following order:

The outer apron is installed on a sheet of corrugated board and is also attached to the crate. For the most part, it performs a decorative function, making the junction of the chimney and the roof smoother, but this element also provides additional protection.
Aprons can be made independently from a solid zinc sheet, or you can purchase a set of ready-made flashing strips. The first option is more complicated, since it requires an independent cut and bending of the edges of the hole in the sheet. But the second option involves additional spending money.

Sectional Mounting Diagram

The parts of the apron adjacent to the chimney must be sealed with sealant.

It is more difficult to cut holes in the corrugated board and in the roofing cake for pipes with a circular cross section than under rectangular chimneys, but their insulation can be done by simple methods. For this Master Flash nozzles are used. These are rubber or silicone products in the form of a stepped pyramid with a round cross section. They tightly fit the chimney and are securely attached to the corrugated sheet.

The base of the nozzle is made of aluminium. The reverse side of the product has a corrugated surface, which increases its tightness.

Installation of a round pipe

So, how to sheathe a pipe on the roof with corrugated board if it is round? Before installing the nozzle, it is necessary to cut off such a number of pyramid rings as which will provide a hole diameter 20% smaller than the pipe diameter. Then the Master Flush is pulled down the pipe from top to bottom. The base is glued to the corrugated sheet with silicone and attached to it with screws. The place where the rings of the product fit to the pipe is sealed with silicone.

You can also seal round pipes with self-adhesive lead tapes.

Elimination of leaks

The main reason for the leakage of the joints of the pipe and the roof is a violation of the tightness of the aprons. To solve this problem, it is necessary to build an additional outer apron from bitumen tape.

Before its installation, the roof should be cleaned of dust with a metal brush.

The tape is laid in several layers along the bottom of the pipe and along the sheet of corrugated board adjacent to it (or along the apron). Then it must be heated with a burner and pressed down with a wooden plank.

Such a gasket can last for several years.

Serious leaks can only be repaired by replacing the apron.

Moisture can also get under the roof due to excessive condensate production by the pipe. To reduce its amount, an umbrella can be built on the chimney. Umbrellas are made from metals such as copper, galvanized and stainless steel. The cap not only reduces the amount of condensation, but also extinguishes the sparks coming out of the chimney, increasing the fire safety of the structure.

If the chimney is close to the edges of the slopes, then leaks can occur due to the accumulation of a large amount of snow masses. To eliminate this problem, the apron is complemented by a triangular convex design (with mandatory sealing), which will separate the snow and simplify its removal.

Useful video

The passage of the chimney through the corrugated roof - video instruction:

Conclusion

The main difficulty that arises when bringing the chimney to the roof is the installation of waterproofing elements at the joints of the structures in order to avoid leaks, and problems can also arise when passing the pipe through the roofing pie. But with the right work, these difficulties will be overcome.

The passage of the pipe through the roof of corrugated board and metal tiles

Corrugated roofs have earned the trust of private developers due to their light weight, long service life and appearance that mimics the relief of traditional ceramic tiles. Sheets of corrugated board are a thin, durable, corrosion-resistant metal, which is covered with a layer of paint and, using pressing, gives the surface the desired shape. To heat the house, wood-burning stoves, gas boilers, solid fuel stoves are installed in it. Since the installation of such equipment is a technically complex matter, it is trusted by professionals. However, to ensure the passage of the pipe through the metal tile and corrugated board is the task of the homeowner.

Types of chimneys

The flue pipe is a hollow cylinder through which smoke and combustion products are discharged into the atmosphere. The stove-makers use the following options for organizing this process:

Choice of output location

Choosing a convenient place for making a hole in the roof from corrugated board for a chimney pipe is half the battle. Naturally, the decisive factor in this matter is the location of the furnace. Professional stove-makers recommend placing the chimney strictly vertically, but there are more subtle nuances:

It is best to place the chimney outlet at the highest point of the roof, that is, closer to the ridge. The optimal distance from the ridge to the pipe is 50-80 cm.
It is desirable that the hole in the corrugated roof for the pipe does not fall on the elements of the truss system. To get around them, they use bends, corner sections of the chimney. They can be used to set the rotation to 90 or 45 degrees.
The length of the chimney pipe segments is calculated in such a way that the joints are above or below the places where the ceilings and corrugated roofs pass. Otherwise, it will be problematic to make a quality connection.
To ensure good draft, the height of the chimney system should be 1-1.5 more than the roof ridge. If the pipe is too high, the flow of smoke will have time to cool down while passing through it, which leads to condensation.

To check whether you have correctly determined the exit point of the future chimney, draw a mark on the corrugated roof with a marker and check its temperature at the end of the day - the pipe should be located in the "cold zone", that is, remain in the shade for almost all day.

Preparatory stage of work

So that during the installation of the pipe there are no difficulties, you need to prepare the place of work and tools in advance. A hole from corrugated board is cut out according to the following technology:

After determining the configuration of the chimney, they outline where the exit to the roof will be located. Recall that it is better to place the pipe vertically.
The size of the section of the chimney pipes is selected based on the recommendations of the manufacturer of the heater. The thicker and higher the pipe, the better the smoke is removed from the furnace. It is important that all segments are of the same section and fit each other, inserted without a gap.
On the corrugated roof, outline the pipe outline with a permanent marker.
A grinder with a thin wild metal cuts a hole, stepping back from the intended line a couple of centimeters inward. Work with corrugated board should be done carefully and slowly so that the cut edge is even, without notches that can injure you during the pipe removal process.
In the corners of the hole, short cuts should be made to bend the edges of the corrugated board up.
In the ceiling they cut out the same weigh. Mount a metal box that will connect the pipe to the rafters. The chimney will pass through the hole inside the box, the distance between their walls must be at least 15 cm.

For the northern regions, in which the insulation layer exceeds 150 mm, sandwich pipes are recommended, which consist of two layers of metal and heat-insulating material between them.

Exit the chimney to the roof

All the preparatory work has been done, it remains only to connect the pipe correctly and put the chimney into operation. To bring the chimney to the roof, you must:

Insert the chimney through the hole in the box and direct it to the roof. Using adhesive tape, the edges of the waterproofing film and the vapor barrier membrane are securely fixed to the surface of the chimney.
Fill the box tightly with expanded clay or lay mineral wool. These types of insulation are not subject to fire, therefore they insulate the pipe and protect against sudden ignition of the wooden elements of the truss system and the crate.
A rubber or silicone seal is put on the pipe, which protects against moisture infiltration at the outlet. To provide better waterproofing, the sealant is glued to the corrugated board with a fire-resistant sealant.

Do not be afraid of overheating of the waterproofing film from the surface of the chimney; mineral wool or expanded clay embedded in the box reliably protects it from fire.

Even a novice craftsman can carry out the removal of a chimney to the roof, the main thing is not to forget that a negligent attitude to this issue can lead to a fire and the loss of your property.

Video instruction

The output of the chimney pipe through the roof of the metal tile

When designing the heating of a country house, you need to think about how the pipe passes through the roof. For her, choose a place near the ridge, in this case, the risk of condensation is reduced.

The option of passing the chimney "through the ridge" is considered the simplest. In winter, snow does not accumulate on the ridge. Another way to get through is a pipe made of working bricks or concrete and installed on a roof slope, not far from the ridge.

To bring the pipe through the roof from the metal tile, first you need to: mark the place of passage, cut a hole in the roof and install adjoining strips or a passage element (for a round pipe). Let's take a closer look at each stage of the work.

deposit photos

Measurements and calculations

On a roof with a ridge, the height is calculated depending on the interval between the pipe and the ridge:

At an interval of 1.5 meters, the height of the pipe should be 0.5 meters higher than the roof ridge.
With an interval of 1.5 to 3 meters, the ridge and pipe should be at the same level.
If the interval between the pipe and the ridge is more than 3 meters, then the length of the pipe above the roof can be determined on the basis of a line that runs at an angle of 10 degrees from the ridge run to the horizon.

Thermal insulation materials, waterproofing and vapor barrier should be at a distance of 15 cm from a brick or concrete chimney, if a ceramic product acts as a pipe, then the allowable distance is 25 cm.

How to cut a hole

After the location of the pipe is determined, it is necessary to mark up and prepare a hole in the metal tile.

The coating layer, together with the heat and waterproofing, can be cut using a sharp knife or large scissors. There are two ways to make a hole in a metal tile:

The hole can be made during installation or after the flooring has been laid. To prepare a round and rectangular hole, metal shears, a jigsaw or nibblers are used.
To prepare a hole with a circular cross section, you need to draw a circle with several intersecting diameters in the center. After that, using scissors for metal, you need to make cuts starting from the center of the markup to the edges, then bend the resulting triangles inward.

Fire safety

To ensure fire safety when a pipe passes through a metal roof, it is necessary to equip a special box in which non-combustible material, such as mineral wool, must be filled.

In addition, it is recommended to thicken the walls of the chimney up to 35-40 cm. If a brick pipe is used for passing, then the thickening of the walls will reduce the heating of the surrounding materials to an acceptable 40-50 degrees.

Methods for withdrawing a pipe through a roof covered with metal tiles

The passage node is selected according to the shape and size of the chimney. The most popular options for passing the roof are:

Square or rectangular outlet.
Round exit.

Each type has its own characteristics and sequence of installation.

How to make a rectangular chimney outlet

Rectangular passage is carried out in two stages:

Installation of the inner apron before laying the coating.
Installation of the outer element, after laying the coating.

The installation process can be divided into the following points:

Determining the location of the top edge of the inner junction bar. To do this, it is applied to the wall of the pipe.
Along the mark line, with the help of a grinder, you need to make a groove, about 150 mm deep, while the strobe should be with a slight upward slope. The final stage is its cleaning, which is recommended to be carried out with water.
The junction bar must first be installed on the side of the chimney from the cornice, and then the other three bars are installed on the side and top.
The planks are laid with an overlap of about 150 mm, and the edges are filled with silicone sealant. As fastening it is recommended to use roofing screws.
To form a "tie" through which water from precipitation will pass, a sheet of metal is installed under the bottom. Usually it is installed so that water immediately enters the drainage system.
To remove the waterproofing, it is raised to the wall of the chimney by 5 cm, and fixed in this position with a special adhesive tape. This will provide additional reliability at the junction.
Now proceed to the equipment of the lower apron, which serves more for a decorative purpose. It is installed in the same way, only to fix the outer strips, the walls of the chimney do not need to be ditched. In fact, the bottom apron turns out to be sandwiched between the sheets of metal, which excludes the penetration of moisture under the roof.

deposit photos

How to exit a round chimney

A round passage is a little more difficult to install, so a through passage was developed to facilitate the work. It consists of a flat steel base and an elastic cap. This allows you to hermetically connect all the elements of the passage.

For the production of passage elements, EPDM rubber or silicone are used, which have high thermal stability. Pass-through elements made of silicone are recommended for use in those places where there are temperature fluctuations from -75°С to +260°С, elements made of EPDM can withstand temperature fluctuations from -55°С to +135°С.

The installation of the passage element consists of the following items:

On the coating of metal tiles, you need to cut a hole based on the diameter of the pipe.
Having moistened the transition element with liquid soap, it is put on the pipe.
The sealing element, with the help of light pressure, repeats the bends of the roofing.
To fasten the element, you can use self-tapping screws, but before that, a sealant is applied under the transition element. The screws must be spaced 35 cm apart.

For greater efficiency, experienced roofers advise choosing a smaller diameter of the ring on the passage element relative to the pipe section, by about 20%, and at the same level it needs to be cut.

The choice of sealant for chimneys

There are two types of sealant for installing chimneys:

It is customary to use heat-resistant compounds for insulating the outer surfaces of stoves and fireplaces, as well as for insulating joints between brick pipes and roofing. It can also be used when installing sandwich pipes, but not from metal.

Many sealants are based on silicone, with the addition of iron oxide, due to which, such a sealant is able to withstand constant temperatures from 250 to 350 degrees. Heat resistant sealants can be acidic or neutral.

Heat-resistant compounds are used in cases where the temperature of constant heating ranges from 1200-1300 degrees, and short-term reaches 1600 degrees. Such a sealant is used to seal cracks in the furnace furnace, where there is an open fire and to seal chimneys on the roof. For cases with open fire, you need to choose refractory compounds.

The basis of heat-resistant pastes contains silicate. During polymerization, it is converted into an organosilicon compound, which is extremely durable and 100% waterproof.

Concrete, as you know, is a hard and durable material, which is why it is very popular in construction. However, due to these properties, its mechanical processing causes certain difficulties. In particular, home craftsmen often face the task of how to punch a hole in concrete?

Concrete drilling methods

The choice of method for obtaining holes in concrete depends on the tasks:

If you need to get a hole of small diameter, for example, for, then use a puncher with a special drill with a carbide tip.
If it is necessary to obtain a large diameter, for example, for laying pipes, installing sockets, etc., diamond drilling of holes in concrete is used using special crowns.

Now let's take a closer look at both technologies.

Making holes with drills

Drills or, as they are also called, a screw-shaped rod and, as mentioned above, a carbide tip. The shank can be smooth and cylindrical, designed for impact drills, or made according to the SDS standard, for rotary hammers.

With their help, you can make holes of small and medium diameter.

The instructions for performing this procedure are as follows:

Before you punch a hole in concrete, you need to outline the place to be drilled.
Then the tip is inserted into the chuck of a puncher or drill. This sets the depth gauge to the desired position.

In the photo - drilling with a perforator

Next, the drill should rest on the intended point and turn on the tool. In this case, you need to perform a certain emphasis on the nozzle. Periodically, the drill must be removed from the hole and moistened with water, preventing it from overheating.
After the required depth is reached, work is stopped.

I must say that you can make a hole with a conventional drill without impact. However, this will require a punch with a hammer. In such a situation, the drill must be periodically removed from the hole and the concrete should be broken with a punch.

Drilling with diamond crowns

Often there is a need to make a large-diameter hole in concrete, for example, to get a sewer or water pipe. Today, there are many companies that provide such services. However, before inviting specialists, you should find out the cost of punching holes in concrete.

It is possible that you decide to perform this operation yourself. To do this, you need the same puncher. The only thing is that you will have to purchase a diamond nozzle-crown.

With this tool, you can make holes with a diameter of 100 mm and even more. Moreover, a properly selected crown will allow you to successfully drill even reinforced concrete structures and concrete of any hardness, with any filler.

Note!
Gear crowns, when meeting with reinforcement, can jam, while their teeth, as a rule, break.

Thanks to this, it is possible to obtain a hole in any concrete structure. For example, when arranging various wells, people are often interested in how to punch a hole in a concrete ring? A diamond tool can also easily cope with this task.

In addition, there are some other advantages of this method:

The ability to obtain a hole of the required size of an absolutely round shape.
There are no shock effects and strong vibrations, so this technology can be used in houses that are under repair or reconstruction.
There is no loud noise.
The ability to use when installing air conditioning systems, where sometimes jewelry accuracy is required.
Ability to drill at an angle, close to walls, floors or ceilings.

Advice!
The price of crowns is usually quite high.
However, if you follow the rules of operation, then the used nozzle can be restored.
There are specialized companies that provide such services.

The principle of drilling is the same as when drilling with auger drills. Including, it is necessary to periodically moisten the crown with water.

If you need to get a hole with a diameter of, for example, 20-50 cm or even more, then the punch, of course, is not suitable for these purposes. In this case, you can drill a hole in concrete using a professional tool.

Powerful equipment is not held in the hands like a hammer drill. Usually it is fixed on the wall with anchors. the lower part rests on the floor, and the upper part rests on the ceiling.

Professional equipment is usually equipped with additional functions, such as water supply to the working area, a dust collector that allows you to perform the procedure without dusting the environment, etc.

Advice!
Diamond nozzles may be needed not only when drilling concrete.
Also an effective method is cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels and grinding with diamond cups.

Of course, such equipment is very expensive, therefore, it makes no sense to purchase it for domestic purposes. Therefore, to perform such an operation, it is more advisable to seek help from specialists.

Conclusion

As we found out, in some cases it is quite possible to make a hole in concrete on your own. In order for this operation to take place efficiently and without much effort, you should use a suitable tool for this and follow the drilling technology.

See the video in this article for more information on this topic.

There is a need for their wiring through various obstacles, such as walls, floors and other elements of building structures.

What do you need to know?

reinforcing and barrage gratings;
electrical wiring lines;
elements of the ventilation system (if any).

General order of work

first, a circle is marked in the right place on the wall, the diameter of which is equal to the cross section of the pipe (together with the sleeve);
then, using a crown of the appropriate size, a hole is drilled in the wall;
when the nozzle “slips”, a punch and a hammer will be required, using which it will be possible to destroy the material in a place that cannot be drilled;
after that, it will be possible to continue working until the finished hole is obtained.

Note! In the event that it is necessary to drill a hole in concrete, a set of special pobedit drills will be required. With their help, you can work with materials with a thickness of 10-15 cm.

Working with complex coatings

Note! The main problem when working with tiled surfaces (in bathrooms, toilets and kitchens) is the fragility of the facing material, to preserve which it is recommended to drill in a non-impact mode.

When preparing holes of large diameter, it will be possible to use the following techniques:

use a special diamond "crown" as a nozzle, when using which the drill should work in low speed mode;
use a special device called a ballerina;
in order to exclude the possibility of slipping of the teeth of the nozzle or the tip of the ballerina from the surface of the tile, which is smooth and covered with a layer of hard glaze, the latter is preliminarily scratched with a file or sealed with a piece of masking tape.

Preparation of holes in the floor

The procedure for preparing the marked holes depends both on the type of the sexual base itself, and on the type of decorative coating laid on top of it.

Video

Drilling a hole in a concrete wall, even with a drill bit, is not always easy because of the pebbles or rebars encountered.

You can overcome this obstacle with the help of simple tricks: pebbles are broken with several blows of the punch, and the reinforcement is drilled with an ordinary drill.

If you don't have a Pobedite drill, you can replace it with a punch from the New Settler's Dream set.

Inserted into a drill chuck, it takes concrete well.

If the carbide drill is sharpened asymmetrically, then it will drill concrete much faster. It is necessary to mark the hole with a drill with a regular sharpening.

You can also punch a hole in a concrete wall using a punch made from a drill with a diameter of 6-8 mm. Its end is sharpened in the form of a dovetail.

The drill is struck with a hammer and constantly turned.

It only takes a few minutes to punch a hole with this tool.

When drilling holes in concrete or brick, the drill bit will last longer if it is periodically moistened with water.

An elastic plastic bottle can be used as a water reservoir.

When drilling holes in the ceiling, crumbs of plaster flying from the drill get into the eyes, behind the collar of the clothes, under the sleeves. To avoid this, it is enough to wrap a funnel made of spring wire with a transparent plastic film and put it on a drill.

If you have outweighed the ceiling lamp, the metal hook remaining in the ceiling can be easily disguised using a plastic cup, a button to match the color of the ceiling and a pharmaceutical rubber band.
When hanging a chandelier, it is often necessary to punch a hole in the ceiling to install a metal hook. To prevent the fragments and plaster from falling on the floor, you can use an old rubber ball. The ball must be cut in half, make a hole in one of the halves and put it on a punch or jumper.

If you are going to make a hole in a stone or concrete wall, tape it under a sheet of thick paper folded at an acute angle - it will protect the walls and floor from dust and debris.

There are several ways to fix a screw in a concrete wall.

Wooden cork is a true, but far from the only and not always the most suitable option.

It is much better to stuff the hole tightly with nylon (crushed old nylon stocking) and melt it with a red-hot nail. While the capron has not cooled down and hardened, screw in the screw.

Kapron hardens quickly and will firmly hold the screw in the socket. In the hardened capron, the thread from the screw remains for a long time.

Therefore, this method is especially convenient in cases where the screw has to be unscrewed from time to time, and then screwed again. to the same nest.

A wooden cork can be successfully replaced with a loop of two-wire electrical wire in PVC insulation, the ends of which are cut flush with the wall.

You can also apply the technique used by electricians to install rollers: wrap the screw around the cutting with soft wire (let its ends protrude a little) and firmly insert it on the liquid alabaster into the drilled hole.

After the alabaster has hardened, the screw will be fine hold on. If necessary, it can be turned out - cutting from the wire will remain in the hole.

As a dowel, you can use a piece of copper or aluminum tube with a longitudinal slot. It is crimped, inserted into a hole drilled in the wall and a screw is wrapped.

If the wall is made of sufficiently strong concrete, then you can do it quite simply: drill a hole whose diameter is smaller than the diameter of the screw and then screw the screw into it with force, it will hold tight without any additional devices.

If it is necessary to drill a through hole in the wall, and the length of the drill is not enough, then this operation can be performed in two steps: on one side and on the other side of the wall. Having drilled a hole at the intended point, place a magnet or a metal rod in it.

Then use the compass to find the drilling point on the opposite side of the wall. The use of a magnet is preferable, as it will prevent the compass needle from erroneously pointing at the wall reinforcement.

Heavy shelves for greater reliability can be hung on bolts.

Holes are knocked out in the wall with a margin and bolts are cemented in them, leaving the thread to protrude to the desired length.

The shelves are fastened with nuts, which, if necessary, are recessed and puttied.

When embedding in a wall (using concrete or plaster) a bolt with a head inward and a thread outward, bend its shaft at an angle of about 30 °.

This will increase the stability of the bolt.

You need to hang something from the ceiling, for example heavy chandelier. How to do it? We offer this option.

Insert a threaded metal sleeve into the hole in the ceiling.

2-4 holes should be drilled in it, in which steel fingers should move.

We screw a pointed bolt into the bushing from below. He will spread his fingers, and they will forcefully rest against the walls of the hole, due to which the device will be firmly fixed in the ceiling.

The suspension will be even more reliable, although it will require more work if you drill not one hole, but two at opposite angles to each other, as shown in the figure. Two rods are inserted into the hole and fastened together. The pendant is ready.

Little hint. Do not rush to cover the vacated hole in the concrete wall with wallpaper. Put some metal object into it: a ball, a screw, a pushpin. With the help of a small magnet, you can always find the old hole so as not to drill a new one.

The walls of a standard sanitary block are made of asbestos-cement sheet. The screws don't stay in it. To hang shelves, drill holes in the wall and cut threads into them. Mounting bolts must be tightened without much effort.

Fixing a bolt in a thin wall requires preparatory operations, namely: you need to take a soft metal tube along the diameter of the bolt and make a cross-shaped incision at one end.

Then drill the wall according to the diameter of the bolt head and insert it into the hole with the attached tube. When tightening the nut, the head of the bolt (preferably tapered) will expand the notches, and the bolt with the tube will be securely fixed in the wall.

Another way. Instead of a tube, an internal clamping washer can be used. Its shape is visible in the figure. It can be made from tin or aluminium.

Using this method of fastening, you need to be accurate in determining the size and shape of the hole in the wall. It is better to make it rectangular, but it can also be round.

The clamping washer can also be made in the form of a cross-shaped clamp, bent in such a way that its short legs hold the nut on one side of the wall, and the long legs serve as a washer on the other. sides.

You can also fix the bolt in the wall with a flat pin, if you proceed as follows: drill a hole along the diameter of the bolt head, cut off part of the head, then insert it into the hole and, holding the bolt with pliers, wedge it with a pin.

The rest of the head will push to the side and catch on the wall. A nut with a washer will make the pin invisible.

Another way of fastening to a thin wall, to the reverse side of which there is no access. At the end of the threaded stud, one or two strips are hinged.

They are inserted into the hole, the bolt is shaken, and the slats, turning installed parallel to the wall. It remains to screw the nut and cover the hole with alabaster.

If you need to drive a nail into a thin wall, keep in mind that a nail driven into a plywood or dry plaster wall will hold better if it is bent into an "M" shape.

As we know, when laying water and sewer pipes, it becomes necessary to conduct them through various obstacles, such as walls, floors and other elements of building structures.

But before making holes for the pipe, you need to familiarize yourself with the known methods for implementing similar operations, which often affect not only the supporting structures of the building, but also their finish. In the specific conditions of laying the pipeline, a variety of methods can be used, which are supposed to be considered in our article.

What do you need to know?

The arrangement of openings in load-bearing walls and partitions requires compliance with the known requirements laid down in the current building codes. When preparing them, you need to carefully monitor so that such important elements of building structures and communications are not damaged, which are:

reinforcing and barrage gratings;
electrical wiring lines;
elements of the ventilation system (if any).

Non-specialized work order

Before cutting a hole in the wall, it is recommended to examine its surface with a simple metal detector for the presence of electrical wiring or reinforcement bars in this place.

As for the main working tool, for the purposes indicated by us, in most cases, a hammer drill is used, or a rather remarkable impact drill with a “crown” type nozzle, thanks to which it is possible to make holes of different diameters. The order of their preparation in this case is as follows:

first, in the right place on the wall, a circle is marked, the diameter of which is equal to the cross section of the pipe (together with the sleeve);
after that, using a crown of the appropriate size, a hole is drilled in the wall;
when the nozzle “slips”, a punch and a hammer will be required, using which it will be possible to destroy the material in a place that cannot be drilled;
then it will be possible to continue working until a finished hole is obtained.

To cut complex holes in certain materials, you will need to prepare a set of crowns of different sizes. For drilling partitions made of drywall, foam concrete, and wooden walls, it is possible to use simple steel drills.

Advice! In the event that you need to drill a hole in concrete, you will need a set of special Pobedite drills. With their help, you can work with materials with a thickness of 10-15 cm.

Working with complex coatings

Advice! The main problem when working with surfaces finished with tiles (in bathrooms, toilets and kitchens) is the fragility of the facing material, to preserve which it is recommended to drill in a non-impact mode.

When preparing holes of enormous diameter, it will be possible to use the following techniques:

use a special diamond “crown” as a nozzle, when using which the drill must work in low speed mode;
use a special device called a ballerina;
in order to exclude the possibility of slipping of the teeth of the nozzle or the tip of the ballerina with a smooth surface of the tile covered with a layer of hard glaze, the latter is pre-scratched with a file or sealed with a piece of masking tape.

To make holes in a tile, a more simple and inexpensive, but more risky method is often used, which consists in the following. First, using a simple drill with a diameter of 3–4 mm, a pair of holes is drilled in the marked circle. After that, the gaps between these holes are cautiously destroyed and removed with a well-sharpened chisel. And at the end of the work, using the same chisel, the edges of the hole increase to a predetermined size.

Preparation of holes in the floor

The procedure for preparing the marked holes depends both on the type of the sexual base itself, and on the type of decorative coating laid on top of it.

Before starting work, first of all, you should decide whether it is possible to remove it by cutting out or disassembling a section of the decorative coating at the places where pipes are laid. If it is not feasible to perform these operations, a hole in the finishing material (in a tile, for example), as well as in the floor base itself, is made using the previously described methods.