With insufficient insulation of the walls, about 60% of the heat used to heat the home is lost through them. However, the heat saving standards in force since 2000 required builders to use modern highly efficient insulating materials that significantly increase the heat-shielding properties of walls.

To the question of what to build a house from - wood, brick, concrete, or their numerous and varied combinations, everyone answers in their own way. The choice depends on many factors, among which personal preferences often play a much more significant role than practical considerations. We will try to focus on practical aspects and will proceed from the fact that it was decided to build a brick house. The main advantage of a brick building is its undoubted strength and unlimited service life, of course, subject to proper construction and competent operation.

Thicker doesn't mean warmer

The thickness of the main brick walls is always (well, or almost always) a multiple of the size of half a brick, but at the same time it cannot be less than 25 cm, that is, one of its lengths. From the richest construction practice, it is well known that even a single brick wall is capable of carrying any evenly distributed load that occurs in one-, two-story houses from higher structures. Thermal engineering calculations show that at a temperature "overboard" -30 ° C, namely, such a temperature is not uncommon in winter in most regions of the central part of Russia, to keep the heat in the house, the thickness of its outer walls (with continuous masonry without voids and on cement-sand solution) should be at least 160 cm. The walls of silicate bricks will be even thicker.

Ordinary red brick is corpulent and hollow. For external walls, it is better to use a hollow one, the air sinuses of which significantly improve the heat-shielding characteristics of the structure. In addition, the masonry itself must be carried out with the formation of voids, wells, widened joints filled with heat-insulating material, the use of effective modern heaters and the so-called warm masonry mortars. An equal, or even more serious effect can be achieved using various kinds of heaters, masonry with the formation of voids, porous bricks.

The trick of laying brick walls is the use of warm masonry mortars containing slag, expanded clay, tuff, perlite, etc. as a filler. An ordinary cement-sand masonry mortar has a thermal conductivity close to the thermal conductivity of a solid brick, and for a mixture with such fillers it turns out about 10-15% lower. It also quite significantly increases the heat-shielding properties of the walls, because the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe joints in the masonry is almost 10%.

Where does the heat go?

An important question that interests many potential customers is something like this: "Where should the insulation be located on the walls - inside the room, outside or in the body of the masonry?"

The greatest heat losses in houses, including individual ones, accounted for windows 20 years ago. With double glazing, which was so common until recently, the specific heat flux through windows is 4-6 times higher than the heat flux through walls. And this despite the fact that the area of ​​windows is rarely more than a fifth of the total area of ​​enclosing structures. We will make a reservation right away that the use of multi-chamber PVC profiles with three- or four-chamber double-glazed windows significantly reduces heat losses. 9-10% of the heat leaves the house through the roof and the same amount goes into the ground through the basement. And 60% of losses are accounted for by non-insulated walls.

The location of the dew point depending on the type of wall insulation

Consider three options for wall construction: solid without insulation; with a heater from the side of the room; with external insulation. The temperature in the house, according to the current standards that determine the level of comfortable living, should be + 20 ° С. Measurements carried out by specialists show that at a street temperature of -15 ° C, the temperature of the inner surface of an uninsulated wall is approximately 12-14 ° C, and the outer surface is about -12 ° C. The dew point (the point at which the temperature corresponds to the beginning of moisture condensation) is located inside the wall. Considering that part of the building envelope has a negative temperature, the wall freezes through.

In the presence of thermal insulation located on the walls inside the room, the picture changes significantly. The temperature of the inner surface of the wall (more precisely, the inner side of the insulation) in this design is approximately + 17 ° C. At the same time, the temperature of the masonry inside the building turns out to be about zero, and outside it is slightly lower than the temperature of the street air - about -14 ° C. A house with such internal thermal insulation can be warmed up quite quickly, but brick walls do not accumulate heat, and when the heating devices are turned off, the room cools rapidly. But something else is worse: the dew point is between the wall and the thermal insulation layer, as a result, moisture accumulates here, mold and fungus may appear, the wall still freezes through. However, heat losses are somewhat reduced compared to an uninsulated structure.

Finally, the third option is external thermal insulation. The temperature of the wall surface inside the house becomes slightly higher: 17-17.5 ° C, and outside it rises sharply - up to a level of 2-3 ° C. As a result, the dew point moves inside the insulation layer, while the wall itself acquires the ability to accumulate heat, and heat losses from the room through the building envelope are significantly reduced.

External thermal insulation of walls helps to solve several problems at once. First of all, with proper implementation, such insulation allows you to achieve a high level of energy saving - the cost of heating the building is reduced by 50-60%

Layered masonry

The easiest way to increase the thermal insulation properties of brick walls is to leave cavities in them, because air is an ideal natural heat insulator. Therefore, for a long time, closed air gaps 5-7 cm wide have been made in the body of a wall of solid brick. On the one hand, this reduces the consumption of bricks by almost 20%, and on the other hand, it reduces the thermal conductivity of the wall by 10-15%. This type of masonry is called well. Air, of course, is an excellent insulation, however, with a strong wind, such walls can be blown through the vertical seams of the masonry. To prevent this from happening, the facades are plastered from the outside, and various heaters are laid in the air voids. Now a variety of well masonry is widely used, called layered: a bearing brick wall, then a heater and an outer layer of face brick.

Options for wall insulation with a bond of two layers of brick masonry (a) and metal embedded elements (b)

Thermal insulation in laminated masonry, as a rule, is mineral wool slabs (based on stone fiber or staple fiberglass) or expanded polystyrene, less often extruded polystyrene foam (due to its high price). All materials have similar thermal conductivity coefficients, so the thickness of the insulating layer in the wall will be the same, regardless of the type of insulation chosen (the thickness of the layer is determined not only by the characteristics of the thermal insulation, but also by the climatic zone where the construction is being carried out). However, fibrous materials are non-combustible, which is fundamentally different from polystyrene foam, which is combustible. In addition, unlike polystyrene foam boards, fiber boards are elastic, so that during installation it is easier to press them tightly against the wall. Certain difficulties in the use of expanded polystyrene in layered masonry are also caused by the low vapor permeability of this material. At the same time, expanded polystyrene is about four times cheaper than mineral wool, and for many customers this advantage compensates for its disadvantages. We add that, according to SP 23-101-2004 "Design of thermal protection of buildings", when using combustible heaters in the building envelope, it is necessary to frame window and other openings around the perimeter with strips of non-combustible mineral wool.

A snug fit of the insulation is a guarantee of its efficiency, since if air pockets are allowed in the structure, heat leakage from the building can occur through them.

The device of any type of insulation system requires a thoughtful calculation of its vapor permeability: each subsequent layer (from inside to outside) must pass water vapor better than the previous one. After all, if steam has an obstacle on its way, then its condensation in the thickness of the building envelope is inevitable. Meanwhile, in the case of a popular solution - a wall of foam blocks, fibrous insulation, facing bricks - the vapor permeability of foam blocks is quite high, for a heater it is even higher, and the vapor permeability of facing bricks is less than that of a heater and foam blocks. As a result, steam condenses - most often on the inner surface of the face brick wall (since it is in the zone of negative temperatures in winter), which entails negative consequences. Moisture accumulates in the lower part of the masonry, eventually causing the destruction of the brick of the lower rows. The insulation will get wet over its entire thickness, and, as a result, the service life of the material will be reduced and its heat-shielding properties will significantly decrease. The enclosing structure will begin to freeze, which will lead, in particular, to a decrease in the effect of using the insulation system, to deformation of the room finish, to a gradual displacement of the condensate zone into the thickness of the load-bearing wall, which can cause its premature destruction.

To some extent, the problem of steam transfer is relevant for layered masonry with any type of insulation. In order to avoid wetting of thermal insulation, it is recommended to provide two points. Firstly, it is necessary to create an air gap of at least 2 cm between the insulation and the outer wall, and also leave a series of holes about 1 cm in size (a seam not filled with mortar) in the lower and upper parts of the masonry in order to achieve air inflow and exhaust to remove steam from the insulation . However, this is not a full-fledged ventilation of the structure (in comparison, for example, with a ventilated facade system), therefore, secondly, it makes sense to make special holes for condensate drainage from the layered masonry in its lower part.

An important feature of layered masonry is the use of heat-insulating materials with sufficient rigidity and their reliable fixation so that they do not settle over time. For additional fastening of the insulation and pairing of the outer and inner brick layers, flexible connections are used with each other. Usually they are made of steel reinforcement.

Replacing steel flexible ties with fiberglass allows (due to the thermal uniformity of the wall structure) to reduce the estimated thickness of mineral wool by 5-10%

In recent years, porous large-format ceramic stones have been increasingly used in individual construction for the construction of walls. During their manufacture, organic and mineral materials are added to the composition of ceramics, which contribute to the formation of closed pores during the brick firing process. As a result, such stones become 35-47% lighter than solid bricks of the same size, and due to the porous structure, their thermal conductivity coefficient reaches 0.16-0.22 W / (m ° C), which is 3-4 times more than solid clay bricks. Accordingly, the walls of porous stone can be much less thick - only 51 cm.

Due to the high heat capacity of the material, brickwork has significant thermal inertia - the walls warm up for a long time and cool down just as slowly. For permanent residences, this quality is certainly positive, since the temperature in the rooms usually does not have large fluctuations. But for cottages, in which the owners visit periodically, with long breaks, the thermal inertia of brick walls already plays a negative role, because their heating requires considerable fuel and time. The construction of walls of a multilayer structure, consisting of layers of different thermal conductivity and thermal inertia, will help to remove the severity of the problem.

External insulation

Today, the most widespread systems of external insulation. These include ventilated facades with an air gap and "wet" facades with a thin plaster layer (the variant with a thick plaster layer is slightly less popular). In facades with "thin" plaster, the number of heat-conducting inclusions is minimized. In this they differ from ventilated facades, where there are more heat-conducting inclusions and, accordingly, the insulation should be thicker, which affects the cost of the structure - for ventilated facades, it turns out to be twice as high on average.

Scheme of external insulation

The name "wet" facade is associated with the use of plaster solutions in insulation systems. This explains the main and, perhaps, the only limitation on their arrangement - the seasonality of work. Since the technology provides for the presence of "wet" processes, the installation of the system can only be carried out at positive temperatures.

Such “wet” systems include many different components (insulation, mesh, mineral glue, plaster mixtures, dowels, profiles and a number of other components), but there are only three main layers: insulation, reinforcing and protective and decorative layers. As a heater, plates made of rigid heat-insulating material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity are used. These can be mineral or glass wool boards with an average density (not lower than 145 kg/m³) or sheets of extruded non-shrinking self-extinguishing polystyrene foam with a density of at least 25 kg/m³. At the same time, the thermal insulation properties of a 6 cm thick expanded polystyrene layer correspond to approximately 120 cm of brickwork. The insulation is fixed on the wall using special glue and fasteners. A reinforcing layer of alkali-resistant mesh and a special adhesive solution is applied to the thermal insulation, which fastens it to the insulation plate. And only then form the outer layer, consisting of a primer and a decorative finish.

The main advantage of a “wet” facade is the possibility of obtaining a wall with any required degree of insulation, moreover, such an insulation system is less expensive than layered masonry, while the appearance of the facade, where high-quality plasters are used, will be attractive for a long time. The costs for the construction of the foundation will also be reduced, since the load on it from the insulation layer will be insignificant. The use of such systems makes it possible to reduce heat losses through building envelopes by a factor of three and save up to 40% of funds spent on heating.

In some new built buildings, insulation is placed centrally (in the middle) in the building envelope. With this option, the insulation is very well protected from mechanical damage and there are more opportunities for decorating facades. However, the risk of damage due to humidity is much higher than with external insulation, so the layer structure must be carefully planned and executed without defects.

This design consists of three layers: load-bearing walls, walls made of facing material and insulation, which is located between them. The load-bearing and facing walls rest on the same foundation. The outer layer is most often made of either facing bricks or building bricks, followed by plastering, covering with artificial stone, clinker tiles, etc.

Advantages

• beautiful and respectable appearance when using expensive facing materials;
• high durability, subject to proper design and qualified installation of the structure.

Flaws

• high labor intensity of construction;
• low breathability;
• the possibility of moisture condensation between the heterogeneous layers of such a wall.

It is very important that all layers of the structure are combined with each other in terms of vapor permeability. Compatibility is determined only by the calculation of the system as a whole.

Underestimating this circumstance can lead to the accumulation of moisture in the interior of the walls. This will create a favorable environment for the development of mold and mildew. The insulation from the possible formation of condensate will get wet, which will shorten the life of the material and significantly reduce its heat-shielding properties. The enclosing structure will begin to freeze, which will lead to inefficiency of insulation and may cause its premature destruction.

Types of structures

Typical solutions for layered masonry can be divided into two types: with and without air gap device.

The air gap device allows you to more effectively remove moisture from the structure, since excess moisture from the load-bearing wall and insulation will immediately go into the atmosphere. At the same time, the air gap increases the total thickness of the walls, and, consequently, the foundation.

Insulation inside masonry walls

To some extent, the problem of steam transfer is relevant for layered masonry with any type of insulation.

Thermal insulation of the structure with mineral wool is the most preferable. In this case, it becomes possible to arrange an air gap between the insulation and the outer wall for better moisture removal from the load-bearing wall and insulation.

For layered masonry, use semi-rigid mineral wool insulation. This will allow, on the one hand, to fill in well all the defects in the masonry, to create a continuous layer of thermal insulation (the plates can be “squeezed” a little, avoiding cracks). On the other hand, such plates will maintain geometric integrity (do not shrink) throughout the entire service life.

Stone wool TECHNOBLOCK

Mineral wool ISOVER Karkas-P34

Certain difficulties in the use of expanded polystyrene in layered masonry are caused by the low vapor permeability of this material.

Three-layer brickwork with insulation

1. Interior of a brick wall
2. Mineral wool
3. Exterior brick wall
4. Connections

The traditional material for the interior of the walls is solid red ceramic brick. Masonry is usually carried out on a cement-sand mortar of 1.5-2 bricks (380-510 mm). The outer wall is usually made of face brick 120 mm thick (half a brick).

Products

In the case of a system with an air gap 2-5 cm wide, for its ventilation, vents (holes) are arranged in the lower and upper parts of the wall, through which vaporous moisture is removed to the outside. The size of such holes is taken at the rate of 75 cm 2 per 20 m 2 of the wall surface.

The upper ventilation ducts are located at the cornices, the lower ones - at the plinths. At the same time, the lower holes are intended not only for ventilation, but also for water drainage.

1. Air gap 2cm
2. Lower part of the building
3. Upper part of the building

To carry out ventilation of the layer, a slotted brick laid on the edge is installed in the lower part of the walls, or a brick is laid in the lower part of the walls not close to each other, and not at some distance from each other, and the resulting gap is not filled with masonry mortar.

Establishing links

The inner and outer parts of a three-layer brick wall are interconnected by special embedded parts - ties. They are made of fiberglass, basalt-reinforced plastic or steel reinforcement with a diameter of 4.5–6 mm. It is preferable to use fiberglass or basalt-reinforced plastic links due to the greater thermal conductivity of steel links.

These connections also perform the function of fixing the insulation boards (the insulation is simply
poke at them). They are installed in the process of laying in a load-bearing wall to a depth
6-9 cm in increments of 60 cm horizontally and 50 cm vertically, based on an average of 4 pins per
1 m 2.

To ensure a uniform ventilated gap over the entire area of ​​​​the insulation, fixing washers are attached to the rods.

Often, instead of special connections, bent reinforcing bars are used. In addition to connections, the outer and inner walls of the masonry can be connected with a steel reinforcing mesh laid every 60 cm vertically. In this case, additional mechanical fastening of the plates is used for the air gap device.

Insulation plates are installed with dressing of seams close to each other so that there are no cracks and gaps between individual plates. At the corners of the building, the plates are geared to avoid the formation of cold bridges.

Masonry technology with insulation

• Laying the facing layer to the level of connections
• Installation of a heat-insulating layer so that its top is 5-10 cm higher than the facing layer
• Laying the carrier layer to the next level of connections
• Installing ties by piercing them through the insulation

if the horizontal seams of the bearing and facing layers of the wall in which the ties are placed do not coincide by more than 2 cm in the bearing layer of brickwork, the ties are placed in a vertical seam

• Laying one row of bricks in the bearing part of the wall and the facing layer

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Types of masonry walls with insulation inside

There are two types of brick walls with insulation inside. The first method is the so-called lightweight well masonry, consisting of two independent brick walls.

To increase the strength of the structure, they are interconnected by horizontal brick bridges. And the formed hollow wells inside them are filled with heat-insulating material.

The second method involves the construction of a three-layer wall structure. In this case, the brick wall is lined with tiled heat-insulating material, on top of which the third layer is laid out - facing brick. However, due to the fact that cases of destruction of buildings erected using this technology have become more frequent, since 2008 its use in Russia has been prohibited.

A technological technique using a lightweight well type makes it possible not only to increase the thermal inertia of a brick wall, but also to significantly reduce the construction estimate.

When conducting low-rise construction, it will be enough to make a wall partition of 1.5 bricks in order to achieve the necessary bearing strength. And the heat resistance of the building is ensured by the insulation of the walls.

Using a combination of brickwork with insulation allows you to achieve:

• significant savings in building materials;
• reducing the load on the foundation;
• cost reduction compared to traditional brickwork;
• reducing heat loss by almost half.

Wall construction technology with insulation inside

Well lightweight brickwork is not a new invention. It rather refers to undeservedly forgotten building technologies. Due to its cost-effectiveness and high energy saving, it has recently gained quite a lot of popularity.

In order to increase the stability of load-bearing walls with this type of construction, hollow wells are constructed in them by the method of filling bonded bricks from the outer and inner layers of masonry. Such wells are made in the form of a transverse wall, the thickness of which is ½ brick and with a distance between them of 2-4 bricks. The resulting voids are filled with lightweight concrete, slag, expanded clay or other heat-insulating material.

Necessary tools and materials:

• brick;
• masonry mortar;
• mesh for reinforcement;
• heat-insulating material (expanded clay, concrete, crushed stone, sand);
• polystyrene (optional);
• plaster mixture for exterior decoration;
• trowel;
• plumb;
• putty knife.

To perform well masonry, you must:

1. Work should begin at the corner of the inner and outer walls.
2. During the process, the corners and locations of the vertical internal partitions are laid out with pokes.
3. Longitudinal walls should be laid out in a row of spoons.
4. The laying of the transverse walls of the wells is carried out by poking.
5. Ligation of the transverse wall with the longitudinal one is carried out through a row in height.
6. After 4-5 rows of walls are laid out, insulation is poured into the well. In this case, you can use such insulating material as sand, crushed stone, expanded clay. It is laid between the walls in layers of 10-15 cm, while ramming is good. Every 30-50 cm inside the well, the insulation is poured with a solution. To prevent it from settling, horizontal jumpers are made every 30-60 cm. In some cases, it makes sense to lay the outer and inner walls of the wells with foam panels. This will prevent wetting of the insulation. For this, foam with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm is suitable.
7. The installation of wall brick partitions is completed with a solid masonry in three or four rows with the obligatory laying of a reinforcing mesh in the last row.

Some types of masonry on the outside of the house must be plastered. This also applies to the well method. The use of heat-resistant plaster will further strengthen the structure, insulate the building and prevent moisture from entering the heat-insulating material.

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For better preservation of heat in the house and to save money on heating, lightweight (insulated or well) masonry is often used during construction.

This type of masonry can significantly reduce the load on the foundation, although it is more laborious in the production of this type of construction work.

It should immediately be noted that the masonry should be made along horizontal waterproofing and the first two or three lower rows of bricks are laid out solid, this also applies to the upper rows of masonry. The lower masonry will take on the entire load from the wall being built, and the brick of the upper rows transfers the load from the beams or floor slabs. The corners of the building are also made in the form of solid brickwork with mesh reinforcement in 4-6 rows. You should not save on these masonry elements, the strength and durability of the house will depend on this.

The insulated (lightweight) masonry wall consists of three parts. The main part is the internal load-bearing wall, it is usually laid out in a brick or one and a half bricks thick. Beams or floor slabs rest on this part of the wall. The thickness of this part of the wall depends on the loads that will be transferred to it and on the region of construction.

The inner part of the wall is an insulating layer of the selected type of insulation. For insulated masonry, various types of insulating material are used: expanded clay, slag, mineral wool, foam plastic, expanded clay concrete. Any of these materials can be used for insulated masonry. The easiest way is to use loose types of insulation - expanded clay and slag. These materials should only be carefully compacted during its construction. Mineral wool and polystyrene insulation is already more difficult to work with. In case of formation of voids between the plates of such material, it is necessary to apply mounting foam. The most difficult thing to work with is the expanded clay concrete insulation. In warm weather, a brick wall should be kept for about a day before pouring expanded clay concrete, and special care should be taken so as not to stain the facing part of the wall with concrete mortar.

The outer part of such a wall is laying in half a brick with facing bricks. This part of the wall is carried out with jointing and reinforcement with mesh in 3-4 rows.

The very work of building such walls is more difficult than when building solid brick walls, but due to the production of "warmer" walls, such masonry is very popular.

To give strength to the walls during work, vertical and horizontal fastening diaphragms are arranged. Vertical diaphragms are best made of brick, they are great for any kind of insulating material. It is possible to arrange vertical diaphragms from masonry mesh, but this type of fastening of the bearing and facing parts of the wall is better suited for loose types of insulation or expanded clay concrete. Horizontal diaphragms are made of reinforcing mesh for masonry, they are usually mounted on the sixth row of masonry.

Particular attention should be paid to the installation of the insulating layer of the wall, there should not be any voids between the insulating material, this is especially true when installing foam insulation, in this case mounting foam should be used.

In this way, the bearing and facing parts of the wall are laid, followed by the installation of insulation. After the installation of the horizontal diaphragm, parts of the wall are raised, a heater is mounted between the vertical diaphragms and then to the desired height of the wall.

The masonry around the window and door openings is solid. Under the bottom of the window openings, a reinforced horizontal diaphragm is arranged from two rows of bricks with mesh reinforcement.

This method of building walls is, although very time-consuming, but with the right approach to this work, the structure turns out to be quite reliable and durable.

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Construction of a three-layer wall with brick cladding

In low-rise construction, the construction of an external three-layer wall is very popular: the load-bearing wall is a brick insulation-cladding (120 mm), Fig.1. This wall allows effective for each layer materials.

Bearing wall made of brick or concrete blocks, is the power frame of the building.

insulation layer. fixed on the wall, provides the necessary level of thermal insulation of the outer wall.

wall cladding from a facing brick protects a heater from external influences and serves as a decorative covering of a wall.

Fig.1. Three layer wall.
1 - interior decoration; 2 - load-bearing wall; 3 - thermal insulation; 4 - ventilated gap; 5 - brick lining; 6 - flexible connections

Multilayer walls also have disadvantages:

• limited durability of the insulation material compared to the material of the load-bearing wall and cladding;
• the release of hazardous and harmful substances from the insulation, albeit within acceptable limits;
• the need to use special measures to protect the wall from blowing and moistening - vapor-proof, windproof coatings and ventilated gaps;
• combustibility of polymeric heaters;

Bearing wall in three-layer masonry

The bearing wall is usually made of bricks, vibrocompressed concrete blocks, as well as cellular concrete or lightweight concrete small-format blocks with a density of more than 700 kg / m 3. Wall thickness 180 - 640 mm.

For one-story buildings, the minimum thickness of the masonry of the bearing wall made of piece materials can be 180-250 mm. For 2-3 storey buildings - 290 mm.

Wall insulation in three-layer masonry

As a heater, rigid mineral wool boards or sheets of foamed polymers are usually used: expanded polystyrene - extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) or expanded polystyrene board (PPS), PSB foam.

Less commonly used heat-insulating slabs of cellular concrete and foam glass, although these materials have a number of advantages compared to the above heaters.

The thickness of the insulation is chosen depending on the climatic conditions of the construction area.

How to determine the required heat transfer resistance of the wall and calculate the thickness of the insulation, read the article "Heating costs and heat transfer resistance."

Insulation of the walls of the house with mineral wool boards

Mineral wool slabs are fixed on a load-bearing wall with an air ventilated gap between the surface of the slabs and brick lining, or without a gap, Fig.1.

Why a ventilated gap is needed and moisture accumulation in the wall is described in detail in the article “Dew point, vapor barrier and ventilated air gap”.

The calculations of the moisture regime of the walls show that in three-layer walls condensate in the insulation falls during the cold season in almost all climatic zones of Russia.

The amount of condensate falling out is different, but for most regions it fits into the norms established by SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings". There is no accumulation of condensate in the wall structure during the year-round cycle due to drying in the warm season, which is also a requirement of these SNiP.

As an example, the figures show graphs of the amount of condensate in the insulation based on the results of calculations for various options for facing the three-layer walls of a residential building in St. Petersburg.

Rice. 4. The result of calculating the moisture regime of a wall insulated with mineral wool boards with a ventilated gap and a "siding" type coating (brick - 380 mm, insulation -120 mm, siding). Facing - ventilated facade.

From the above graphs it is clearly seen how the lining barrier, which prevents ventilation of the outer surface of the mineral wool insulation, leads to an increase in the amount of condensate in the insulation. Although there is no accumulation of moisture in the insulation in the annual cycle, but when facing with bricks without a ventilation gap, a significant amount of water condenses and freezes in the insulation every year in winter, Fig.2. Moisture also accumulates in the layer of brick cladding adjacent to the insulation.

Humidification of the insulation reduces its heat-shielding properties, which increases heating costs building.

In addition, water annually, when freezing, destroys the insulation and brickwork of the cladding. Moreover, the cycles of freezing and thawing during the season can occur repeatedly. The insulation gradually crumbles, and the brickwork of the cladding is destroyed. I note that the frost resistance of ceramic bricks is only 50 - 75 cycles, and the frost resistance of the insulation is not standardized.

Replacing a heater covered with brick cladding is an expensive pleasure. Hydrophobized high-density mineral wool boards are more durable under these conditions. But these plates have a higher cost.

The amount of condensate is reduced or no condensation at all if you provide better ventilation of the surface of the insulation - fig.3 and 4.

Another way to eliminate condensation is to increase the vapor permeability resistance of the load-bearing wall. To do this, the surface of the load-bearing wall is covered with a vapor barrier film or heat-insulating boards with a vapor barrier applied to their surface are used. When mounting on a wall, the surface of the boards covered with a vapor barrier must face the wall.

The arrangement of a ventilated gap, sealing the walls with vapor-tight coatings complicates and increases the cost of the wall structure. What does moistening the insulation in the walls in winter lead to is written above. Here also choose. For construction areas with severe winter conditions, the installation of a ventilated gap can be economically justified.

In walls with a ventilated gap, mineral wool boards with a density of at least 30-45 kg / m 3, pasted over on one side with a windproof coating. When using plates without wind protection on the outer surface of the thermal insulation, wind protection coatings should be provided, for example, vapor-permeable membranes, fiberglass, etc.

In walls without a ventilated gap, it is recommended to use mineral wool boards with a density of 35-75 kg / m 3. In a wall structure without a ventilated gap, heat-insulating boards are installed freely in a vertical position in the space between the main wall and the facing layer of bricks. As supporting elements for the insulation, there are fasteners provided for fastening the brick cladding to the load-bearing wall - reinforcing mesh, flexible connections.

In a wall with a ventilation gap, insulation and a windproof coating are attached to the wall using special dowels at the rate of 8-12 dowels per 1 m 2 surfaces. Dowels should be deepened into the thickness of concrete walls by 35-50 mm, brick - by 50 mm, in masonry of hollow bricks and lightweight concrete blocks - by 90 mm.

Wall insulation with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

Rigid slabs of foamed polymers are placed in the middle of a three-layer brick wall structure without a ventilated gap.

Polymer boards have a very high vapor permeability. For example, an expanded polystyrene (EPS) wall insulation layer has a resistance 15-20 times greater than that of a brick wall of the same thickness.

Insulation with hermetic laying is a vapor-tight barrier in a brick wall. Steam from the room simply does not get to the outer surface of the insulation.

With the right thickness of the insulation, the temperature of the inner surface of the insulation must be above the dew point. When this condition is met, steam condensation on the inner surface of the insulation does not occur.

Mineral insulation - low density cellular concrete

Recently, another type of insulation is gaining popularity - products from low-density cellular concrete. These are heat-insulating slabs based on materials already known and used in construction - autoclaved aerated concrete, gas silicate.

Thermal insulation slabs made of cellular concrete have a density of 100 - 200 kg / m 3 and dry thermal conductivity coefficient 0.045 - 0.06 W/m o K. Mineral wool and polystyrene foam heaters have approximately the same thermal conductivity. Plates are produced with a thickness of 60 - 200 mm. Compressive strength class B1.0 (compressive strength not less than 10 kg / m 3.) Vapor penetration coefficient 0.28 mg/(m*year*Pa).

Heat-insulating slabs made of cellular concrete are a good alternative to mineral wool and polystyrene foam insulation.

Trademarks of heat-insulating slabs made of cellular concrete well-known in the construction market: Multipor, AEROC Energy, Betol.

Advantages of cellular concrete thermal insulation slabs:

The most important one is higher durability. The material does not contain any organic matter - it is an artificial stone. It has a fairly high vapor permeability, but less than mineral wool insulation.

The structure of the material contains a large number of open pores. Moisture that condenses in the insulation in winter dries quickly in the warm season. There is no accumulation of moisture.

Thermal insulation does not burn, under the influence of fire does not emit harmful gases. The heater does not stick. Insulation boards are harder and mechanically stronger.

The cost of facade insulation with cellular concrete slabs, in any case, does not exceed the cost of thermal insulation with mineral wool insulation or expanded polystyrene.

When installing heat-insulating plates made of aerated concrete, the following rules are followed:

Heat-insulating slabs of aerated concrete up to 100 thick mm fastened to the facade with glue and dowels, 1-2 dowels per plate.

From plates with a thickness of more than 100 mm close to the insulated wall lay out the wall. Laying is carried out on glue with a seam thickness of 2-3 mm. With the bearing wall, the masonry of the insulation boards is connected with anchors - flexible connections based on the calculation, five connections per 1 m 2 walls. Between the bearing wall and the insulation, you can leave a technological gap of 2-15 mm.

It is better to tie all layers of the wall and brick cladding with masonry mesh. This will increase the mechanical strength of the wall.

Wall insulation with foam glass

Three-layer wall of the house with foam glass insulation and brick cladding.

Another type of mineral insulation that has appeared on the construction market relatively recently is foam glass slabs.

Unlike heat-insulating aerated concrete, foam glass has closed pores. Due to this, foam glass plates poorly absorb water and have low vapor permeability. A ventilated gap between the insulation and the cladding is not needed.

Foam glass insulation is durable, does not burn, is not afraid of moisture, and is not damaged by rodents. It has a higher cost than all of the above types of heaters.

Installation of foam glass plates on the wall is carried out using glue and dowels.

The thickness of the insulation is chosen in two stages:

1. They are chosen based on the need to provide the required resistance to heat transfer of the outer wall.
2. Then check for the absence of steam condensation in the thickness of the wall. If the test shows otherwise, then it is necessary to increase the thickness of the insulation. The thicker the insulation, the lower the risk of steam condensation and moisture accumulation in the wall material. But, this leads to an increase in construction costs.

A particularly large difference in the thickness of the insulation, selected according to the above two conditions, occurs when insulating walls with high vapor permeability and low thermal conductivity. The thickness of the insulation to ensure energy saving is relatively small for such walls, and to avoid condensation - the thickness of the plates should be unreasonably large.

When insulating aerated concrete walls (as well as from other materials with low resistance to vapor permeation and high resistance to heat transfer - for example, wood, from large-pore expanded clay concrete), the thickness of polymer thermal insulation, according to the calculation of moisture accumulation, turns out to be much larger than it is necessary according to the standards for energy saving.

To reduce the flow of steam, it is recommended to arrange vapor barrier layer on the inner surface of the wall(from the side of the warm room), Rice. 6. For the device of vapor barrier from the inside for finishing, materials with high resistance to vapor permeability are chosen - a deep penetration primer is applied to the wall in several layers, cement plaster, vinyl wallpaper.

A vapor barrier from the inside is mandatory for walls made of aerated concrete, gas silicate for any type of insulation and facade cladding.

It should be borne in mind that the masonry of the walls of a new house always contains a large amount of building moisture. Therefore, it is better to let the walls of the house dry well outside. It is recommended to carry out facade insulation works after the interior decoration is completed, and not earlier than one year after the completion of these works.

Facing the exterior walls of the house with bricks

Facing the exterior walls of the house with bricks is durable and, when using a special colored facing facing brick, and even better clinker bricks. quite decorative. The disadvantages of the cladding include the relatively large weight of the cladding, the high cost of special bricks, and the need to broaden the foundation.

It should be especially noted the complexity and high cost of dismantling the cladding to replace the insulation. The service life of mineral wool and polymer insulation does not exceed 30 - 50 years. At the end of the service life, the heat-saving properties of the wall are reduced by more than a third.

With brick cladding use the most durable insulation, providing them with conditions in the wall structure for maximum long-term operation without replacement (minimum amount of condensate in the wall). It is recommended to choose high-density mineral wool insulation and polymer from extruded polystyrene foam, XPS.

In brick-lined walls, it is most advantageous to use mineral heaters made of autoclaved aerated concrete or foam glass, with the service life of which is much longer than mineral wool and polymer.

Brick cladding is done in half a brick, 120 mm. on conventional masonry mortar.

A wall without a ventilated gap, insulated with high-density slabs (mineral wool - more than 50 kg / m 3, EPS), you can veneer with brickwork on the edge - 60 mm. This will reduce the overall thickness of the outer wall and plinth.

Brick cladding is connected to the bearing wall masonry with corrosion-protected steel wire or reinforcing mesh, or with special flexible ties (fiberglass, etc.). Vertically, the grid or connections are arranged in increments of 500-600 mm.(height of the insulation plate), horizontally - 500 mm., while the number of bonds per 1 m 2 blank wall - at least 4 PCS. At the corners of the building along the perimeter of window and door openings 6-8 PCS. for 1 m 2.

The laying of brick cladding is longitudinally reinforced with masonry mesh with a vertical step of not more than 1000-1200 mm. The masonry mesh should go into the seams of the masonry of the bearing wall.

To ventilate the air gap in the bottom row of facing masonry, special vents are arranged at the rate of 75 cm 2 for every 20 m 2 wall surface. For the lower vents, you can use a slotted brick placed on the edge so that the outside air through the holes in the brick has the opportunity to penetrate into the air gap in the wall. Upper vents are provided in the eaves of the wall.

Ventilation holes can also be made by partially filling the vertical joints between the bricks of the lower row of masonry with cement mortar.

Placement of windows and doors in the thickness of a three-layer wall should ensure minimal heat loss through the wall at the installation site.

In a three-layer wall insulated from the outside, a window or door box installed in the same plane with the insulation layer at the border of the heat-insulating layer- as it shown on the picture.

Such an arrangement of the window, door along the thickness of the wall will ensure minimal heat loss at the junction.

Watch the video tutorial on the topic: how to properly lay a three-layer wall of a house with a brick lining.

When facing walls with bricks, it is important to ensure the durability of the insulation layer. The longest service life will be provided by thermal insulation with low-density cellular concrete or foam glass slabs.

It is also important to reduce the amount of moisture in the outer walls in winter. The less moisture condenses in the insulation and lining, the longer their service life and the higher the heat-shielding properties. To do this, it is necessary to take measures to reduce the vapor permeability of the bearing wall, and for a vapor-permeable insulation, it is recommended to arrange a ventilated gap at the border with the cladding.

To insulate a three-layer wall with mineral wool, it is better to use plates with a density of at least 75 kg / m 3 with ventilated gap.

A wall insulated with mineral wool with a ventilated gap dries out faster from building moisture and does not accumulate moisture during operation. The heater does not burn.

The option with a gap will cost more due to an increase in the total thickness of the outer walls and the plinth. The cost of mineral wool boards also increases with an increase in their density.

By insulating walls with extruded polystyrene foam (EPS, XPS), you can somewhat reduce construction costs by reducing the total thickness of the outer wall and plinth.

It is not necessary to insulate a three-layer wall with polystyrene foam and low-density mineral wool products. The service life of such cheap heaters will be short.

When to change the heater?- you will find the answer to this question in one of the articles on this topic (links below).

domekonom.su

Brickwork with insulation and cladding

September 3, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

My neighbor has a brick sauna, which he decided to insulate from the outside with polystyrene foam or stone wool. Called me for help. We spent four days on work, as we decided not to plaster the walls, but to decorate them with siding.

Today I will tell you how and with what to insulate a residential building with brick walls from the outside.

The choice of the method of placement of insulating material

First, let's figure out which side is better to mount thermal insulation on the walls of a brick building. Personally, I usually use two methods of warming a house or, for example, a bath - from the inside and outside.

You can, of course, still install heat-insulating material on both sides, but this method for central Russia, in my opinion, is redundant. Although for the regions of the Far North it has the right to exist.

I must say right away that I usually try to mount heat-insulating material on the facades of buildings, since insulation from the inside of a brick wall has several significant disadvantages:

1. The usable area inside the premises is reduced. You need to install not only the thermal insulation material itself, but also the devices for its installation, plus vapor barrier films and decorative material. As a result, the thickness of the enclosing structures will increase much, which will lead to a decrease in the size of the rooms.
2. There is a need to dismantle the decorative finishes of the premises. If measures to insulate a house or bath are carried out after putting it into operation, then to install the insulation, it will be necessary to remove the interior trim (wallpaper, panels, and so on), and then put them back (which is not always possible).

This technology increases the time to carry out the work, the estimated cost of insulation and labor costs.

1. Humidity rises in the room. If you used vapor-proof insulation and dense vapor barrier membranes for thermal insulation, the air will not pass through the enclosing walls, and the moisture dissolved in it will accumulate inside the room.
   As a result, you will either have to suffer from dampness, or equip very effective ventilation (usually I do forced ventilation in such cases).
2. In some cases, mold and fungus appear on walls and other surfaces. This is due to the violation of air exchange in the room and an increase in the level of humidity.
   Moreover, harmful microorganisms can develop not only on surfaces, but also inside the insulating cake, which greatly reduces the life of the heat insulator.
3. When insulating internal surfaces, you do not protect the walls of the building from destructive external influences. They will constantly experience significant temperature fluctuations, which also leads to the destruction of their internal structure and a reduction in service life.

Therefore, before insulating a brick wall from the inside, always consider the possibility of external thermal insulation. After all, this method, unlike the one discussed above, has many advantages:

1. If the thermal insulation material is installed outside, it not only prevents unproductive heat loss from the living quarters, but also protects the brick walls from the annual freeze and thaw cycles.
2. External insulation technology allows you to shift the dew point inside the building envelope so that the condensed moisture is removed to the outside through the ventilation gaps in the insulation layer, and does not accumulate inside, leading to damage to the wall.
3. Insulation allows you to increase the thermal inertia of a heat-insulated structure. The bottom line is that during operation, the walls gradually accumulate thermal energy and, with a short-term decrease in air temperature outside, there are ways to independently maintain the desired microclimate in the house for some time without using heating devices.
4. Measures for external insulation of the house can easily be combined with decorative facade decoration. This reduces the cost of thermal insulation and the time for project implementation.
5. Properly selected material allows not only to insulate the building, but also to perform its sound insulation. The thermal insulator layer effectively absorbs sound waves.

This method has many more advantages that are not so significant, so I will not talk about them. It is much more important to figure out which insulation is better for the walls of a brick house.

The choice of insulation

So, let's figure out the better to insulate a brick bathhouse or a house from the outside. I will not talk now about all the variety of insulating materials on the construction market.

I can only say that I prefer mineral (namely, basalt) wool to all of them, formed into mats of a certain length, width and thickness. This heater has a huge number of advantages:

1. Low thermal conductivity. Mineral wool is a very effective heat insulator, which allows you to install a thin layer of insulation. For central Russia, 10 cm is enough to effectively retain heat inside living rooms.
2. High vapor permeability. Fiber mats do not prevent the passage of air molecules through the mineral surfaces. This contributes to the self-regulation of indoor humidity and the formation of a comfortable microclimate for living there.
3. Light weight. The heat-insulating material itself and the structures necessary for its fixing (wooden crate and siding) after installation on the walls do not exert a large load on the structural elements.
4. hydrophobic properties. Basalt fibers, which are made from minerals of volcanic origin, absolutely do not absorb water. In addition, during the production process, mineral wool insulation is treated with hydrophobic substances that prevent the accumulation of moisture inside the heat-insulating layer. Subject to the installation technology, basalt mats do not change their heat-preserving properties depending on the level of humidity in the street.
5. High sound absorption coefficient. The insulation I am considering, unlike, for example, expanded polystyrene, has an open structure and fibers oriented in different directions. Therefore, it absorbs sound waves well and acts as an effective sound insulator.

1. Fire resistance. The melting temperature of basalt fibers is over 1000 degrees Celsius. Therefore, in case of fire, mineral wool does not ignite and does not contribute to the further spread of fire. The material does not emit toxic substances into the air that make it difficult to evacuate or extinguish a fire.
2. Environmental friendliness. Products are prepared from natural volcanic stone, which is absolutely harmless. Formaldehyde resin is used to glue the fibers, but it is exposed to a temperature of 250-300 degrees, after which it becomes practically harmless to the human body.
3. Ease of installation. To install mineral wool on the outer surface of the walls, you need a minimum set of tools and fixtures. And about how to fix the insulation, I will just tell you a little lower.

In principle, foam plastic has similar properties, the price of which is lower than the cost of basalt wool. However, he:

1. firstly, it is not vapor-permeable, which means that the rooms will be humid;
2. and secondly, it is a very combustible material and, when ignited, releases chemical compounds dangerous to humans.

Therefore, I prefer to use foam plastic only when the cost of insulation for the customer is very critical or when it is necessary to finish the facade with a thin layer of cement screed.

In the case described, I purchased TechnoNikol Technoblock thermal insulation standard with a thickness of 50 mm and dimensions of 1200 by 600 mm. The density of the material is 45 kg per cubic meter. One package of mineral wool boards is enough to finish 8.6 square meters of a wall.

Insulation installation technology

I have already mentioned a little that the insulating layer in the case I am describing will be 10 cm thick. However, I will mount it on a different crate, located perpendicularly. Thus, the formation of cold bridges along the seams of the insulating layer can be excluded.

Required Tools

Mineral mats are not all that is needed in the process of insulating the brick walls of a residential house or bathhouse. Let's take another:

• wooden blocks with a section of 50 by 50 mm, from which a crate will be made for installing insulation;
• dowels with screws or dowel-nails that will hold the crate on the outer surface of the walls;
• primer with antiseptic for pre-treatment of mineral surfaces before installing thermal insulation;
• a waterproofing membrane that will protect the insulation under the cladding from exposure to atmospheric moisture and wind fraying;
• adhesive double-sided tape for sealing the joints between individual sheets of waterproofing film.
• U-shaped perforated brackets on which the crate for external decorative material is fixed;
• galvanized profiles to which fittings and plastic siding will be attached;
• siding, initial, corner, intermediate and finishing profiles for its installation;
• screws, screws and nails that may be needed in the process.

We decided on the materials, now the tools:

• puncher or impact drill for making holes in brick walls (dowels with screws holding the wooden crate on the walls will be inserted into them);
• screwdriver for screwing fasteners when installing siding;
• brush or roller for priming walls;
• construction stapler with staples for fixing the waterproofing film on the crate;
• carpenter's knife or saw with fine teeth for cutting mineral mats;
• measuring devices (tape measure, level, marker, and so on).

Considering that mineral wool does not irritate the skin and mucous membranes of the human body, it is not necessary to take any special measures to protect the respiratory organs and hands. You can just put on work clothes and linen gloves.

Training

Before fixing the insulation from the outside, I always prepare the surface of the walls. This procedure is simple, but the life of the heat-insulating layer largely depends on it.

The scheme of work is as follows:

1. Repairing a brick wall. It is necessary to rid the brick wall of defects and irregularities that may interfere with the installation of the crate and insulation.

First of all, with the help of a perforator, I get rid of various ledges and architectural decorations, which often abound in the brickwork of houses built in the last century. All details in the form of rhombuses, triangles and squares must be knocked down, otherwise they can cause the formation of cold bridges that worsen the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

I also always inspect the brick wall for cracks, chips and other such defects. They need to be filled with mounting foam or repaired with cement mortar.

1. I clean the mineral surface. After repair, you need to rid the brickwork of traces of debris, dust and remnants of building materials.

If during the repair of the wall you used mounting foam, you need to cut off its excess with a clerical knife. Also clean the remains of the cement mortar from the brick, which dripped from the trowel during the repair, and froze on the wall.

I always pay special attention to finding and removing metal objects (pieces of wire, fittings, and so on). It is better to get rid of them, since during operation they corrode and can cause premature destruction or damage to the enclosing walls or the insulation layer.

1. Dirt brick wall. This procedure improves the adhesive properties of the surface and prevents the appearance of mold and mildew on the walls.

It is necessary to use a primer for brick walls with an additional antiseptic effect. I can give Caparol FungiGrund as an example, but you can use something else.

It is desirable to cover the wall in two layers. But the second should be applied only after the first is completely dry.

At the same time, it is possible to perform antiseptic treatment of wooden bars that will be needed for the crate. Only you need to take a liquid specially designed for application to wood.

After all the compositions have dried, you can proceed to the next stage of work.

Installation of mineral wool

We continue to work:

1. I install the bars of the first row of insulation.
   Wooden elements are mounted on a brick wall using dowel-nails or screws. To do this, you need to drill a hole in wood and brick, then make a small recess with a larger diameter drill (the hat will hide in it), and then screw the screw into the recess.

When installing, it is important to control the correct installation of the water level. The appearance of the building after the installation of vinyl siding depends on how evenly the planks are installed.

If necessary, small wooden wedges can be placed under the bar at the place of its fastening, thanks to which the vertical will be exactly observed.

A very important point in this process is to maintain the correct distance between adjacent frame parts. Given that the width of the TechnoNIKOL insulation is 600 mm, it is necessary to make sure that there is a gap of 580-590 mm between the planks. Then the mineral mat will become a surprise, and it is not necessary to fix it with anything additional.

1. I carry out cutting of mineral mats.
   As I said, if you correctly calculated the distance and installed the first row of battens, trimming will have to be done either in length or in the area of ​​​​window and door openings (well, at the corners of the house).
   As a result, you not only make your work easier, but also reduce the number of scraps, that is, the insulation will be spent more rationally. To cut basalt wool, you can use a sharp bench knife or a saw with fine teeth.

1. I install the plates of the first row of cladding.
   Everything is simple here - you need to lean the slab against the place intended for it and press it between the guides of the crate with a light effort. Mats have elasticity, therefore, after mechanical action, they take their original shape and are firmly fixed between the crate.

1. I am fixing the second row of the crate. To avoid the formation of cold bridges and increase the strength of the warming cake, this time the wooden blocks are placed horizontally.

Mounting them in this case is easier. Drilling the wall is not required. It is enough to make a hole with a recess (countersink the bar), and then screw the screw through it directly into the timber of the first crate.

1. I install heat-insulating mats of the second layer.

You need to act according to the same system as with the first row. Thanks to two layers of insulation, the desired thickness of the insulation layer (10 cm) is achieved and heat loss through the seams is excluded.

1. I fix the waterproofing membrane on the crate. To do this, I use a special film produced by TechnoNIKOL, which prevents the mineral mats from getting wet and prevents their gradual destruction from the wind blowing in the gap (more on that later).

The membrane is strengthened horizontally and fixed on the wooden blocks of the insulation frame using a construction stapler and staples. You can also use carnations with wide hats.

In this case, it is very important to arrange the seams correctly.. To ensure the necessary tightness of the waterproofing layer, it is necessary to overlap at a distance of about 10 cm when installing the next sheet of film and fix the joint with adhesive tape.

For these purposes, I use double-sided adhesive tape, which is located inside the seam. How to glue it is clear from the photo.

Installation of decorative cladding

Vinyl siding attached to a galvanized profile will act as an external cladding. The scheme of work for its installation is as follows:

1. I mount U-shaped aluminum perforated parts on a wooden crate of insulation to fix the profile.
   The brackets are simply attached to the wooden parts with self-tapping screws directly through the waterproofing membrane. Then you need to bend the petals of the bracket at an angle of 90 degrees to the wall. Galvanized profiles will be screwed to them.
   It is necessary to fasten the brackets so that the maximum horizontal distance between them is 30 cm, otherwise the vinyl siding after installation will sag under load and may burst from impact.

1. Installing support profiles for siding.
   They are screwed to the brackets with self-tapping screws. If the walls initially had a significant vertical drop, then at this stage you can additionally align them. More precisely, install the profiles strictly vertically so that the siding itself is also attached evenly.
   To do this, you just need to screw the screws into a suitable hole, following the correct installation using the water level.

In this case, the distance between the decorative material (siding) and the waterproofing film is very important.. The crate should be 3-5 cm away from the membrane in order to form a ventilation gap through which the moisture accumulated inside will be removed to the outside. If you used metal brackets for fixing, then making a gap will not be difficult.

1. I fix the necessary accessories for the installation of siding.
   We are talking about the starting profile, connecting parts, corners and so on. As in all other cases, you need to mount the parts on aluminum rails using small self-tapping screws.

1. Installing siding.
   You need to start work from the bottom of the house, inserting the first lamella into the starting profile fixed there. The part itself is fixed on the crate with self-tapping screws. They should not be wrapped too tightly to compensate for the possible thermal expansion of the finish.

Summary

The above instruction describes in detail the technology of external insulation. If you are still interested in how to do it from the inside with your own hands, you can check out the video in this article, which outlines the necessary sequence of actions.

And I wanted to ask readers how do you perform insulation inside an apartment in a multi-storey building? What technologies do you use for this? What do you think is the best way to protect reinforced concrete enclosing walls from the inside? Post your answers in the comments to this article.

September 3, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Brick is the most common material for the construction of load-bearing walls. It is successfully used both in high-rise industrial construction and in private low-rise buildings. The only drawback of a brick is its low thermal insulation qualities. To solve this problem, additional wall insulation is made. Brickwork with insulation inside makes it possible to build a warm house with minimal time and money.

Cons of masonry without insulation

More recently, the issue of thermal insulation of brick buildings was solved in a simple way - by increasing the thickness of the wall. So, for the middle lane, the thickness of the walls was 3-3.5 bricks, and in the northern regions it could reach 1-1.5 m. This is due to the high coefficient of thermal conductivity of the brick, which causes large heat losses.

Such a thickness was a forced measure in the absence of effective and inexpensive heat-insulating materials. Another factor contributing to the use of "thick wall" technology in the Soviet era was the relative cheapness of bricks. This made it possible to simplify the masonry technology by refusing to use heat-insulating materials.

Recently, however, this approach has become too wasteful from a financial point of view: in addition to the cost of bricks, the cost of arranging reinforced foundations is increasing.

Another problem that can be encountered when laying brickwork without thermal insulation is the displacement of the dew point inside the premises.

In construction, the dew point is the point inside or outside the street walls of a building where the cooled vapor contained in the air begins to condense. The transformation of steam into dew occurs when warm air comes into contact with cold surfaces.

The most preferred option is to find the dew point outside the building, in which case the condensed moisture will simply evaporate under the influence of wind and sun. It is much worse if the dew point is shifted inside the premises. Dampness, which forms on the inner surfaces of the walls, negatively affects the microclimate in the house, becoming a source of high humidity and the cause of fungus and mold.

Not insulated walls in winter frosts are cooled to their entire thickness, as a result, steam condensation occurs on their internal surfaces.

In areas where sub-zero temperatures are set in the cold season, the brick laying technology with insulation is the only acceptable one.

Three-layer masonry

One type of insulated wall is a three-layer brickwork. Its structure looks like this:

1. Inner wall made of bricks, cinder blocks, aerated concrete, etc. Carries out the bearing function for interfloor overlappings and a roof of the building.
2. . The insulation is placed in the internal cavities-wells between the outer and inner walls. Protects the inner wall from freezing during the cold season.
3. Exterior wall with brick cladding. Performs decorative functions, giving the facade additional aesthetics.

On the image:

No. 1 - interior decoration.

No. 2 - the bearing wall of the building.

No. 3 - insulation between brickwork.

No. 4 - ventilation gap between the internal insulation and the facing wall.

No. 5 - external wall with brick lining.

No. 6 - internal reinforcement connecting the inner and outer wall.

Brickwork with insulation inside, like other building technologies, has its pros and cons. Its positive qualities include:

• Smaller masonry volume, which reduces the estimated cost due to savings on the amount of building material.
• Less weight of the building, which makes it possible to use lighter and more inexpensive foundations.
• High thermal insulation performance, allowing you to keep warm in the winter.
• Improved sound insulation. The thermal insulation layer can significantly reduce the noise level, which is especially important if the building is located on a central street with heavy traffic.
• External walls lined with decorative bricks do not need additional decorative finishing.

Among the disadvantages of multilayer walls, you can specify:

• Greater labor intensity associated with insulation, compared with brickwork in 3 - 3.5 bricks.
• Three-layer walls do not allow periodic replacement of insulation, while its service life is always shorter than the service life of brick walls.

The choice of insulation

As a heat-insulating material, a wide range of heaters can be used that meet the recommendations of SNiP.

Firstly, the thermal conductivity of the material must be such as to ensure the protection of the interior at the maximum negative values ​​typical for this region.

You can get acquainted with the heat-insulating performance of the insulation in the instructions from the manufacturer on its packaging or in the tables of technical characteristics of SNiP. By comparing these figures with the winter minimum temperatures, you can calculate the required thickness of the insulation layer.

Secondly, the insulation must have sufficient vapor permeability. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate inside it, which will lead to the loss of thermal insulation qualities.

And, thirdly, the internal insulation must be fire resistant. Due to its incombustibility, it will not only not support combustion, but will also create a fire-retardant layer inside the masonry.

Mineral wool

A large family of heaters based on mineral fibers have excellent heat-saving characteristics. They are made by whipping molten minerals in a centrifuge: glass, basalt, slag, etc. The low level of heat transfer in this case is achieved due to the high porosity of the material - air gaps do not allow cold to penetrate through the mineral wool.

Absolutely not combustible, but very afraid of dampness. When wet, it almost completely loses its heat-saving properties, therefore, when laying it, it is necessary to take care of an effective waterproofing device.

Styrofoam

Foamed - another heat-insulating material often used in three-layer masonry.

It is produced by saturating liquid polystyrene with air, which, after solidification, takes the form of porous round granules. To fill wells in the wall, it can be used in the form of sheets or as bulk material. It is much less afraid of damp than mineral wool, but unlike it, it is combustible, so walls insulated with polystyrene foam should be protected from open fire. Even if the fire does not damage the brickwork, it will burn out and melt the Styrofoam inside it. To replace the insulation, you will have to carry out time-consuming and expensive work to dismantle the facing part of the wall.

Bulk insulation

In private construction, sometimes three-layer masonry is made with backfilling of internal wells with various mineral fillers: slag, expanded clay, etc. This technique is somewhat cheaper and easier than laying a mini-slab or expanded polystyrene sheets, but its effectiveness is much lower. This is due to the lower thermal protection of slag and expanded clay.

The slag is very hygroscopic - it tends to absorb and retain moisture, which can cause an increase in its thermal conductivity and premature destruction of the adjacent layers of brick.

Masonry of three-layer walls

Wall laying with insulation is carried out in several stages.

1. Interior wall masonry. It is produced using the same technologies as the laying of a conventional load-bearing wall made of solid bricks or building blocks. Depending on the minimum winter temperatures, it can be 1 or 1.5 bricks thick.
2. Exterior wall masonry with cladding. It is carried out in such a way that between it and the inner wall there is a gap necessary for laying or filling the insulation - a well. Between themselves, 2 walls can be connected either by ties of anchor bolts and reinforcement, or by brick dressing, carried out at certain intervals.
3. is needed to protect the insulation from dampness, since it is impossible to completely prevent the flow of moisture through the brick.
4. Filling the wells with filling insulation is carried out when the walls reach a height of 0.8 - 1 m. Sheet and roll insulation is attached to the inner wall using dowels-mushrooms with a wide plastic cap, after which it is closed with external facing masonry.

For the construction of a waterproofing layer, it is not recommended to use "deaf" materials, such as roofing material. This will exclude the possibility of free gas exchange between the external environment and the interior of the house. Ventilation products should be left in the outer wall every 0.5 - 1 m - vertical seams between the bricks not filled with mortar.

Three-layer brickwork allows you to solve many problems that arise during the operation of housing in the winter. The process of building such walls is shown in the video below..

The norms of thermal protection of enclosing structures are fixed by GOSTs. And these rules are quite strict. So it is simply impossible to provide the required level of heat loss with single-layer walls and a reasonable wall thickness. Today, only multilayer walls with insulation comply with GOSTs. For low-rise construction, the so-called layered masonry is especially popular.

What is layered masonry

The wall here consists of three layers - the actual wall material (brick, foam concrete blocks, reinforced concrete), insulation (or), and cladding (ceramic or concrete bricks, siding).

The thickness of the insulation is calculated based on the properties of the insulation itself, the thermal conductivity of the wall material and the climatic zone of construction. An illustrative example is that a layer of mineral wool 10 cm thick corresponds in terms of thermal conductivity to a brick wall one and a half meters thick!

Between the insulation and the cladding, a ventilated gap is organized.

The advantages of layered masonry are savings in wall material, aesthetic appearance, lower weight of the house (saving on the foundation), saving internal space (thin walls), the possibility of construction at any time of the year.

In addition, there are many colors and types of facing bricks on the market, so that the house can be truly unique in appearance.

Insulation requirements.

Insulation is the most important element in the construction of layered masonry. Its replacement after the construction of the house is almost impossible, so special attention should be paid to the installation of insulation.

According to the properties of thermal conductivity, mineral wool and polystyrene foam are ideal.

Cheaper, but they usually use (when they do it wisely) mineral wool. The high vapor permeability of mineral wool and the low vapor permeability of expanded polystyrene play a role here.

Now more. People will live in the house. And the air exhaled by people always contains particles of water vapor. In turn, brick (like foam concrete) has good vapor permeability, and thus steam is naturally removed from the room. Only in the case of using expanded polystyrene, steam will settle in the form of moisture at the junction of the wall-insulation, destroying them and reducing the thermal insulation properties of the insulation.

Thus, the use of expanded polystyrene is permissible only in the case of vapor barrier of the walls of the house, i.e. steam must not be allowed to penetrate the wall material. But in this way the effect of a “steam room” is achieved, and only competent and efficient ventilation can cope with high humidity in the house. That is, saving on insulation, you will have to spend money on advanced ventilation.

On the contrary, if the thermal insulation has a vapor permeability coefficient higher than the wall material, then the steam will be freely removed from it and evaporate in the air gap.

The only case when the use of expanded polystyrene is acceptable is a wall made of, which practically does not "breathe".

But it must be impregnated in bulk with water-repellent additives, which provide low water absorption of the material. Moisture, no matter how well thought out the cladding, will still fall on the insulation.

In addition, the insulation should not “shrink” over time, otherwise “cold bridges” form in the air space. For example, glass wool known from Soviet times has a high compressibility.

The insulation must be non-combustible, because in case of fire, fire can enter it through door and window openings and spread to all rooms of the house. Almost all mineral wools on the market today have the property of incombustibility.

The Importance of Ventilation Gap

Air, or in other words, a ventilation gap is an indispensable element of layered masonry. As mentioned above, moisture can get into the insulation in various ways, and without this gap, it simply has nowhere to evaporate. In the ventilation gap, it is necessary to organize the movement of air, i.e. make holes for air inflow at the bottom and top of the gap.

Thus, the key to the success of layered masonry walls is the correct calculation of the thickness of the insulation, the choice of its brand and the competent installation of all layers of the wall. This solution is optimal today for the construction of a permanent residence.

Insulations Ursa| URSA P20

Insulations Ursa| URSA P-30

ISOLIGHT ISOLIGHT-L from Izorok - lightweight insulation for a wide range of applications

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Insulation of walls and facades, selection of insulation, calculation of the required thickness Ecowool insulation, wall insulation outside the house Warming of a wooden house, dacha. Types of heaters, installation method.