How to lay laminate with a solid floor without thresholds. How to lay laminate flooring step by step. Types of connecting strips

07.03.2020 Boilers

The laminate flooring laid with a solid carpet throughout the apartment looks aesthetically pleasing and soundly. It is comfortable to move around. The absence of thresholds simplifies the cleaning process. But is everything so clear? In this article, we will look at different sides of this issue. We will tell you under what conditions laying a floor without thresholds makes it possible to enjoy its benefits, and under what conditions it can create problems.

Laying laminate in an apartment without thresholds

To obtain the desired effect from laying laminate flooring without thresholds throughout the apartment, certain mandatory requirements must be met. Their violation is fraught with negative consequences that can outweigh the attractiveness and comfort obtained as a result of this method of flooring.

It should be noted that all laminate manufacturers unambiguously recommend performing work with a tear in the doorway. When laying rooms with a large area, it is necessary to make expansion joints, which make it possible to compensate for the processes of seasonal expansion of the plates.

Multi-layer floor coverings are a derivative of wood, retaining its ability to absorb moisture from the air and on direct contact. During periods of wet weather, fluctuations in air temperature, when flooded with water, such processes inevitably lead to physical expansion of the plates. Violation of the recommendations for their laying will result in swelling of the coating, squeaks or the appearance of cracks between the dies. This may degrade the strength of the locking connection or cause the dice to fall out. Manufacturers of German and Belgian products refer to 100 m2 (or a room of 10 by 10 meters) as the maximum solid floor area for flooring with a single carpet. For products manufactured on Russian lines, this area is 48 m2 (or a room of 8 by 6 meters).

The risk of performing seamless laminate flooring over a large area or throughout an apartment / house can only be taken by experienced craftsmen who are well aware of the parameters of the physical expansion of the material, its laying technology and are able to flawlessly perform work in specific conditions. The first condition is to prepare an ideal foundation for further work. In this case, it is better to exclude even surface level fluctuations permissible by the manufacturer.

IMPORTANT. The base of the floor must be perfectly level.

This effect is achieved in different ways, depending on which base is leveled. It can be:

  • liquid leveling mixtures / thin-layer self-leveling floors - for a concrete base;
  • impeccably executed flooring from OSB boards, plywood;
  • leveling with a scraper or grinder - for a wooden floor.

It is allowed to level the concrete floor with a mosaic grinder.

Information regarding the maximum allowable area on which laminate can be laid without thresholds is contained in the instructions placed on the inserts in packs of dies. The parameters of the permissible moisture content of the base and other recommendations regarding the installation of the material are also indicated there.

IMPORTANT. The entire surface of the base for mounting must be brought to zero. After that, it is brought to a perfectly clean state.

Performing flooring work in two or more rooms with one carpet without a threshold requires professional knowledge and skills. Performing such work by a non-professional is possible only after careful preparation.

Laminate is classified according to the level of strength. A higher grade will ensure the appropriate quality of the coating and a long service life. When choosing, you should pay attention to the tightness of the connection of the dies and the quality of the joints. When choosing a class of material for flooring without thresholds, they are guided by the most intensively used premises. Otherwise, the coating in it will become unusable much earlier than in others. This will force the entire surface covered with one carpet to be replaced earlier.

The implementation of flooring in a private house will require the installation of hydro and thermal insulation layers, which are laid across the direction of installation of the laminate. The underlay is made with an overlap of about 10 cm.

IMPORTANT. Before starting work, the laminate must be in the same room for at least 2 days. Installation should not be carried out in high humidity. Its level must be acceptable specified in the instructions for the material.

At the junction with walls, door frames, pipes or other objects, it is imperative to leave technological gaps.

Advantages and disadvantages of this method

Professionals and manufacturers favor laminate flooring with thresholds. Work without thresholds is resorted to in cases where the threshold profiles do not fit into the design project of an apartment or house, or they are categorically not perceived by the customer.

We list the main advantages and disadvantages of the method without thresholds:

Advantages

Flaws

Great view. Single space effect.

Violation of the manufacturer's instructions, which excludes their warranty.

Comfortable to move around.

Damage to one lamella forces the replacement of the coating not in one room, but in the entire apartment.

Easier cleaning.

High probability of swelling of the coating.

The need for professional styling, and not doing it yourself.

The cost of work is higher in comparison with installation with thresholds.

The table shows that flooring without thresholds has more minuses than pluses. In addition, manufacturers of decorative joints offer a wide range of stone, wood and other materials of various shades and shapes. With their help, you can create smooth joints, rounded and more complex shapes.

How to lay laminate without thresholds

For the rational use of the material, it is desirable to make accurate measurements and perform a scaled layout of the plates on paper, taking into account the direction of their installation. You should start work from the wall with a window in the largest room and move towards the exit.

Further operations are performed in the following sequence:

    at the dice of the first row, you need to cut the lock;

    along the perimeter of the room, purchased wedges or home-made gaskets ≈ 12 mm wide are placed close to the walls to create a technological gap for expanding the dies without swelling (they are removed at the end of work);

  • pre-laying the first row to determine the length of the last lamella;

IMPORTANT: If the pre-laying of the first row shows that the last lamella needs to be cut by more than two thirds, shorten by one third the length of the first lamella in the row.

    after laying the first row, all subsequent rows are mounted with a shift of 1/3 or 1/2 of the length of the lamella (the same over the entire area).

It is not necessary to increase the technological gap in order to avoid swelling of the coating, as this leads to the formation of gaps between the lamellas.

Laying laminate in two rooms without a threshold

Laying laminate in a doorway without a threshold between rooms will require special attention and preparation. Professionals believe that the flooring should be installed before the door frame is installed. In this case, the laminate is cut to the shape of the doorway. If the door is already installed, it is necessary to remove the door leaf, and make a cut in the door frame, into which to insert the lamella. The cut is made with the expectation that there is no pressure on the laminate, the gap should be ≈ 10 mm. To do this, a lamella with a substrate is laid on the subfloor next to the door frame, a horizontal line is marked (taking into account the gap), along which a cut is then made. After installing all the lamellas, a plinth is installed. If the room with the laminate is adjacent to the kitchen, in which the tiles are laid, the dies that are joined to the tiles must be cut as accurately as possible, and the joint should be rubbed with a special grout.

When hiring craftsmen to work on laying laminate, customers often ask that the coating lie a single canvas, that is, the rooms were inextricably linked with each other. It looks solid and beautiful, and at first glance eliminates many inconveniences, such as dust accumulation in the threshold area. The desire is understandable, but many people do not know the pitfalls that can emerge if the installation technology is violated, which will be discussed in today's article. So, laminate without thresholds- all for and against.

Non-threshold floor covering

So, it is customary to lay laminate in two ways - namely, with and without surface separation in doorways. What are advantages and disadvantages of laying laminate without a threshold?

Laminate throughout the apartment is not shared between rooms

Let's start with the first: from an aesthetic point of view, the whole canvas looks more attractive, and you don’t have to stumble over the thresholds and cling to the unscrewed screws with socks and tights.

In fact, we consider these shortcomings to be far-fetched, since they can be correctly eliminated in another way. For example, in order not to stumble, it is worth using a flat threshold. This means that it is required that the level of the subfloor be the same in all rooms, which is also a mandatory requirement when laying laminate without seams in doorways. In order not to stick out the screws, thresholds with a hidden fastening are used, as shown in the following photo.

Composite aluminum threshold

We also consider the aesthetic superiority to be very doubtful, since the choice of modern thresholds allows you to choose options for a variety of interior styles.

The only indisputable advantage of such a coating will be unhindered cleaning - a lot of dirt accumulates under the threshold during operation, which is difficult to clean out.

Accurate passage of communications

Much more disadvantages of non-threshold styling with this setup:

  1. The laying process is more difficult, since it is necessary to transfer the direction of the lamellas in rows without distortions, accurately align the technological gap along the edges, and just as accurately get the joints of the lamellas to the places where the heating pipes and other obstacles come out.
  2. With a high degree of probability, soon the laminate can rise and break - just in the doorways. This is due to the fact that this material has a rather large thermal expansion, plus it is able to increase in size when moisture gets inside.
  3. The number of cuts increases, as does the consumption of material.
  4. Part of the coating will have to be laid in the opposite direction, which is not always convenient.
  5. Such laying can only be done during the construction of a house or a major overhaul.

That's not all subtleties of non-threshold laying of laminate. Which installation method is best, everyone decides for himself. Next, a chapter will be presented where everything will be described in detail, but now let's talk about getting ready for work.

Laying laminate without thresholds: all the nuances of installation

The process of laying laminate flooring itself is not very difficult if you follow the basic rules and requirements of manufacturers, which we will discuss in this chapter.

How to prepare your floors and workspace for laminate flooring

Before deciding on the flooring of such a coating, it should be clearly understood that it is purely decorative and is not capable of performing any load-bearing functions. Yes, due to the thickness of the material, the wooden floor can be strengthened, becoming less flexible, but no more. Any irregularities and differences in the base must be leveled during the preparation phase.

Wooden floor on logs - an ideal surface for laminate

There are two ways to level the floor - with a cement-sand screed or wooden (plywood) flooring along the logs. The second method is easy to implement and allows you to achieve high accuracy, but requires a certain height, which is reserved for the logs.

On a note! It is very important that the floors in neighboring rooms form a single plane, otherwise places of internal stress of the material will form in the doorways, that is, there will be a banal break. This will eventually lead to divergence or swelling of the lamellae, which is why it is so important to pay great attention to the alignment process.

Here are two instructions on how to correctly align the base and put everything in one plane.

Steps, photo:Description of works:

Step 1 - Determination of the floor level

First you need to perform accurate markings and find the highest point of the floor in all rooms. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level.

1. The tool is installed in the center of the room, turns on the horizontal projection mode, and alternately aims at different walls. In this case, it is necessary to measure the distance from the floor to the line throughout the room using a tape measure or square, as shown in the photo.

2. The level of the found point is marked on the wall near the door. Now the laser must be directed so that it is projected onto the wall where the mark is and into the adjacent room.

3. The distance from the mark to the laser is measured, and the point is transferred to the next room using the tape measure. The same manipulations are carried out here. If the highest point in this room is higher than in the first, then we take it as the level.

4. In this manner, all connected rooms are traversed. The found highest point is transferred similarly to all rooms to expose the floor surface.

Step 2 - setting the lag by level

Now that you have a reference point, you can set the lags. They are mounted in increments of no more than 60 cm. They are set so that the edges of the plywood sheets or boards fall exactly in the centers of the bars.

1. According to the marked landmarks, the extreme logs in the room are set. They can be rigidly fixed to the floor (preferably) or left to lie under their own weight.

2. The distance from the floor is verified using linings of the desired thickness, cut from the same timber.

3. Bonding to the floor is carried out using anchors installed in a pre-prepared sweat, or steel corners, as shown in the photo on the left.

Step 3 - setting intermediate lags

The central logs are set with the help of straight rails laid perpendicularly. You can use a long level or a rule. If the distance is very large, then the thread is pulled tightly in several places.

Attention! Log joints of adjacent rooms should not be made in doorways, or be sure to provide dressing in these places with plywood or boards.

Step 4 - Mounting the plywood

Next, the rough flooring is mounted. It is allowed to lay plywood sheets close, but on condition that they are fastened with self-tapping screws to all logs in increments of no more than 15 cm.

It is more correct to leave a small deformation gap of 3-5 mm.

This leveling method is of little use for apartments, since a large rise in the level of the floor can pull significant alterations, but for private houses where high ceilings and doors have not yet been installed, it will do just fine. It is good because it takes little time, does not dilute a lot of dirt, and with minimal material costs, you can set any level of the floor surface. At the same time, insulation will easily lie between the lags.

Cement screed for laminate as a base is not the best option. Concrete can pull moisture and transfer it to the coating, which will quickly lead to deformation and damage to the lamellas, but in conditions of limited space, there will be little choice. In addition, such a base allows you to securely join the laminate with ceramic tiles.

Laminate and tile joint on concrete base

The easiest way to use a self-leveling mixture on a cement or gypsum basis under the laminate. Here's how it's done.

Steps, photo:Description of the workflow:

Step 1 - setting up beacons

First, beacons are set up, the first of which is located at the highest point of the floor. They are tripods and other similar devices that can pinpoint the desired level. The tripods have a movable central adjustable rod.

Step 2 - pouring the mixture

This step is combined, as it consists of several stages.

1. A damper tape is glued around the perimeter, which will separate the mixture from the walls.

2. The base is carefully primed to reduce its absorbency.

3. A fiberglass mesh is spread on the floor, which will significantly strengthen the surface - this stage is often skipped.

4. The composition is diluted with water clearly according to the manufacturer's instructions.

And only after all this, the solution is poured onto the floor at the lowest point. The process takes place continuously until the self-leveling floor takes the desired level.

Step 3 - rolling the self-leveling floor with a spiked roller

Despite the high fluidity, the solution is distributed unevenly over the dry floor, therefore, during operation, the surface is rolled with a special spiked roller. This also allows the remaining air bubbles to be expelled from the inside.

Laminate flooring prices

underlay for laminate

After the mixture reaches the desired level, it is left to dry. Some types harden already after a few hours so that you can walk on the floor. However, laying laminate is only allowed after two weeks. The reason is that hydration processes take place in cement and gypsum for a long time. High humidity will saturate the laminate, causing it to swell.

Video - Technical requirements for laying laminate

Essential tool for seamless laminate flooring

We proceed to the preparation of tools and materials. The set will not be very large, so any home master can do this job.

Tools, photo:Purpose:

Electric jigsaw

Most craftsmen use a jigsaw in their work. This is a universal tool that allows you to make a longitudinal and transverse cut of sufficiently high quality and at high speed. However, in some situations it is worth using more serious equipment.

1. A special saw blade for laminate is purchased for the jigsaw, the teeth of which are directed upwards. It is recommended by manufacturers.

2. The meaning of using such a file is as follows. She presses on the facial covering, and does not pull it towards herself. This eliminates the appearance of chips. Everything would be fine, only in this case it is necessary to use a jigsaw along the front side of the material, which means that it can be scratched by the sole of the tool.

3. In our opinion, it is more correct to make markings on the reverse side and cut with a standard wood file. There will be no chips here, and it is easier to mark, and there will be no scratches guaranteed.

miter saw

The process of laying in a non-threshold way requires a clear adjustment of the indent from the slope in the doorway. Clear and even cuts are needed to be sure that the casing will cover all the cracks. A miter saw will help with this. It is also good if narrow skirting boards are used.

Joiner's square

Using a square and a graphite pencil, the laminate is marked before cutting. A simple and inexpensive kit that gives high accuracy in measurements.

Finisher for laminate

There are several locks for joining the laminate. Some of them require the tenon to be inserted into the groove and fitted tightly by padding. This is easy to do when joining two whole lamellas in a free space, but extremely difficult when laying finishing strips. Here's a doboy to help. He clings with a corner to the edge of the board, after which they hit the outer part with a hammer, tightly connecting the parts.

Prices for electric jigsaws

Electric jigsaw

Ways of fixing laminate panels - lock type Lock

Attention! Of the materials, in addition to the laminate itself, you will need a substrate. It is made from different materials, but it performs one function - it levels out small differences in the base, creating a kind of damper, and insulates the floor. Substrates made of synthetic materials (foamed polyethylene) along the way isolate the laminate from moisture from the concrete base.

Cork backing for laminate flooring

Laminate prices

Do It Yourself: Laying Laminate Without Thresholds

Laminate Offset Rules

Now let's take a look How is non-threshold installation of laminate. The instruction is not very complicated, but requires strict adherence to the steps.

Steps, photo:Detailed description:

Step 1 - lay out the underlay

The floor surface is carefully cleaned. All particles that can disrupt the geometry of the future flooring are removed.

A substrate is spread over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rooms. This material is not fixed by anything, therefore, in order to avoid permanent displacement, it is recommended to glue the joints with any adhesive tape.

The distance to the walls is left at 5 mm.

Step 2 - we carry out a preliminary layout of the laminate

Next is the pre-layout of the laminate. This is necessary in order to check the evenness of the walls relative to each other. To work, you need to take a coloring thread, set it aside from the wall along which the laminate will go, in two places the points that should fall on the doorway.

Focusing on them, you need to draw a straight line going to the adjacent room. So you can check the correct geometry of the walls, get rid of unnecessary cuts.

Step 3 - lay the canvas

In no case should laminate flooring touch the walls when laid seamlessly. The minimum distance is 5 mm, and preferably 1 cm. To align the gap, use spacers that can be cut from laminate waste.

The spacers should be tight so that the transverse joints do not break out during installation. We join the laminate according to the type of lock available. The most common option is called Click, when the joined lamella starts at an obtuse angle, and then bends down to the floor. With this installation, it is convenient to make a whole row, and then insert it at once.

Step 4 - cut the laminate

At the end of each row, you will have to use a cut off piece of lamella. It is necessary to measure its size after the fact, when the main part of the row has already been drawn up and laid.

1. The board is laid with a lock close to the wall upside down. The mark is placed, 2 mm short of the front of the laid canvas.

3. As a result, after docking, about 7 mm will remain to the wall, which are formed due to the fact that the lock goes inside the previous laminate board.

4. The next row starts from the second cut, which makes the laminate a virtually waste-free material.

Step 5 - go to the second room

We reach a row that can go into the next room without trimming, and temporarily lay several lamellas. To stiffen the structure, you can use trim, as shown in the photo.

1. We mark the transition lamella. Try to make a small margin - it is better to cut a couple of millimeters than to immediately remove the excess.

2. In order to avoid cracks in this difficult place, it is recommended to knock down the plaster just above the level of the laminate and make the laying denser, while observing the requirements for an expansion joint.

Advice! All manipulations with plaster are done in advance so as not to dilute dirt.

3. When creating a U-shaped cut, it is better to round the corners.

4. We remove the temporarily laid row and install the trimmed lamella. Then several rows of freely passing through the opening are laid to make this part of the flooring stiffer.

The part of the floor where the trimmings are laid in the photo is filled. The material here is mounted in the reverse order - a little more complicated, but everything is feasible.

Step 6 - fit the laminate to the pipes

Ideally, the places where the pipes pass should fall out at the seams.

1. This can be achieved by slightly shifting the position of the lamellas in each row by performing a preliminary layout.

2. The holes are drilled with a wood crown. Their diameter is 1 cm larger than that of the pipe.

3. If it was not possible to hit the seam, a cutout is made from the wall. The trim is glued back, which masks the untidy hole well.

Video - The process of laying laminate without thresholds

Conclusion

On this, in fact, everything. The quality of laying will depend, first of all, on the quality of the cut and the exact alignment of the technological gap along the entire perimeter of the web. And how long the laminate will lie will affect the evenness of the base, which has already been mentioned.

If you have questions remain- for example, about choice of laminate class, ask them in our VKontakte group.

Laminate has become one of the most popular flooring in recent years. A wear-resistant top layer, an affordable price and ease of installation of such a floor are the main components of this popularity.

The main characteristics of the laminate.

Laminate flooring can be installed in several ways. If we are talking not about one room, but about several rooms interconnected by doorways, then in this case the non-threshold laying of the laminate will be the most convenient.

This method is characterized by the absence of door thresholds in the room. The floor laid in this way is monolithic over its entire area. Although sometimes this advantage can turn into a disadvantage. After all, if even a small mistake is made during installation, such a floor will have to be dismantled not in one room, but in all rooms.

Choice of tools and materials

Tools needed for work: square, tape measure, level, jigsaw or hacksaw with fine teeth, marker or pencil.

Quality work is impossible without the right tools. If we are talking about laying laminate without thresholds, then you will need the following tools:

  • jigsaw or hacksaw with fine teeth;
  • level (preferably a laser one, but a regular one is also possible, only you will have to verify its readings more often and more carefully);
  • mallet (wooden or rubber);
  • roulette;
  • square;
  • marker or pencil.

The hardware store may offer a special kit for laying laminate flooring, which also includes a miter box and plastic wedges. But they are easy to replace with improvised materials, instead of wedges, for example, without compromising installation, you can use small trimmings of a laminate board. So it's worth spending money on such a set or not - decide for yourself.

High-quality laying of a floor is impossible without high-quality material. When choosing a laminate, many buyers are guided only by the texture and color, forgetting that the laminate can be of different strength classes. In construction stores you can find a laminate board of 23, 31, 32, 33 and 34 classes. You can also find a laminate of 21 or 22 classes, but it has already been discontinued.

Laminate layout.

If you need to lay a laminate in a bedroom or dressing room, then you can take material of class 31 or even 23. The latter has the lowest price. But keep in mind that in terms of its strength, class 23 laminate is not suitable for use in rooms where there will be more load on the floor - a hallway, corridor or living room. Therefore, if a class 23 laminate is laid throughout the apartment, then its service life will be short - no more than 5-6 years.

The higher the class of laminate, the longer it will serve you as a floor. Laminate class 31 will last 10-12 years. Interestingly, for class 34 laminate, which is intended for use in dance and sports halls, if it is used in a residential apartment, manufacturers provide an unlimited warranty. But the price of such material will be appropriate.

When choosing a material, you need to pay attention not only to the class of the laminate, but also to the density of the board itself, as well as to the quality of the interlocks.

The response of the floor to changes in temperature and humidity directly depends on the density of the panels - the greater the density, the better for the floor. And weak locks will cause rapid deformation of the floor.

And do not forget about the necessary supply of material. Moreover, if with other laying methods it is quite possible to manage with a margin of 7-8%, then for laying a laminate without thresholds you need at least 10, or even all 12%. Indeed, with this method of laying, it is possible to cut the material on one side only in the first room; in all subsequent ones, the board will have to be cut from both sides.

Preparing the floor for laying

Floor plan.

Virtually every laying instruction that laminate manufacturers place on the packaging indicates that the optimal floor area for laying in a single array is 45-50 m². It follows that, from the point of view of the manufacturer, there should be a gap between the rooms.

If you strictly follow the laws of physics, then this position is correct. The larger the floor area, the more it undergoes deformation. Therefore, the risk that a floor laid in a single array of 100 m² will swell is much higher than that of a floor of 50 m². To prevent this from happening, the thresholds between the rooms act as expansion joints.

Therefore, it is possible to lay a laminate without thresholds only on a perfectly flat subfloor. In the vast majority of cases, floor deformation occurs because air cushions remain between the laminate and the subfloor during installation.

To start laying laminate flooring, you need to carry out certain work to prepare the surface. First you need to remove the old flooring. When starting to dismantle, remember: the more carefully you do it, the less you will have to work with leveling the floor surface.

After dismantling, you need to inspect and assess the condition of the subfloor. If the damage is small, then cosmetic leveling can be dispensed with by smoothing the protrusions with a spatula and sealing the pits and cracks with cement mortar. If the surface of the subfloor is badly damaged, then you will have to make a new screed.

structure of the laminate.

Having finished leveling the subfloor, you need to decide where it is better to start laying, in which direction to lead and where its finishing point will be. This is very important, because it is better to lay the underlay across the laying of the boards. The strips of the substrate are joined together with a slight overlap (7-10 cm), in these places a slight bulge is obtained. If during the installation of the floor such a bulge turns out to be under the locking connection of the boards, then one should not expect good from such work.

If the laying is carried out in a private house, then it is necessary to equip reliable hydro and thermal insulation. In the case of laying laminate without thresholds, the installation of the floor is carried out immediately over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. Therefore, it is necessary to isolate the entire area at once.

When installing insulation, it must be remembered that a thin insulating layer will not reliably perform its functions, and too thick will cause deformation of the floor. Therefore, it is important to observe the golden mean here.

If the laying of the laminate will be carried out in an apartment in a multi-storey building, then the heat-insulating layer can be neglected, since the interfloor ceilings provide sufficient protection from the cold. But in both cases, it is necessary to lay a substrate under the laminate, which will simultaneously perform the functions of a sound insulator and a shock absorber. Typically, this substrate comes in the form of a thin rolled strip.

Floor installation without thresholds

Scheme of laying laminate with a corner lock.

Only after completing the arrangement of all the necessary layers, you can proceed directly to the installation of the floor. The technique of installing a laminate floor without sills is no different from the usual one, with sills. Laying begins, as usual, from the window. The first three laid layers will be fundamental, therefore, they require special attention during installation.

Laminate boards are interconnected with the help of locks, which makes their laying accessible to almost everyone. On one side of the board there is a ledge, and on the other side there is a groove into which this ledge must be inserted.

At the first board from the end, which will be from the wall, the lock is sawn off, from the other end the second one joins it. The locks are connected simply: the second board is inserted with its protrusion into the groove of the first at an angle of 30º, then it is pressed against the floor, the lock snaps into place. Here it is important to make sure that the grooves in the boards are connected tightly, without gaps, if they don’t fit in like that, you can tap with a mallet, but not hard, otherwise you will break the lock.

For all laminate boards that will lie against the wall, you need to cut off the mounting ledge from the side adjacent to the wall, otherwise your floor in this place will not look very aesthetically pleasing. Before laying, each board must be carefully examined so that there are no defects: knocked down corners, broken and twisted lock joints, etc. It is better to detect such defects initially than to disassemble the laid floor later.

The entire row is mounted in this way, only the last board is unlikely to fit entirely (this happens extremely rarely), so the excess needs to be cut off. But do not forget that a laminate floor is a floating floor, it is not attached to the base floor in any way, and when the temperature in the room changes, it may move.

Therefore, it is impossible to lay the laminate close to the walls in any case - you need to make a small indent from the walls, fixing it with a restrictive peg. But if, with other laying methods, such a gap is permissible at 5-10 mm, then when laying a laminate without thresholds, it is better to take 15 mm, since in a larger floor array there will be more deformation.

The second row begins with a sawn off piece of the board of the first row so that the strips go in a checkerboard pattern. But if the sawn off piece is small, less than 0.5 m, then it is better to cut the whole board in half. Cross seams between boards in adjacent rows must have a minimum difference of 0.4 m. Between themselves, the rows are connected in the same way as the boards. Then the third row also joins the first two. It is very important to assemble these three rows correctly, without protrusions, slots and other defects, otherwise you may be surprised to find that in the middle of the room you have a rather impressive gap in the floor.

Features of the transition from room to room

When crossing a doorway, it is important to remember that the door frame must be installed in such a way that the laminate under it can breathe freely. If the door frame has already been installed on the old floor, then you need to carefully make a cut in it, then connect the laminate boards a little less than the cut in width and lay them in this cut so that there is a gap of 10-15 mm on both sides. When installing the floor, it is better to remove the door leaf.

It all depends on the direction of laying. If the transition through the doorway needs to be done parallel to the laying of the boards, then depending on the width of the boards and the doorway, two or even one board may be enough for the transition. In the next room, the laying of the laminate is continued, taking the laid board as a guide, and the gap between the wall and the laid first row is eliminated by laying the laminate boards sawn along the entire length to the desired size.

But if the laying direction goes to the end, then more boards will have to be recruited for the transition. In this case, the laying of the laminate in the second room should be carried out first from the doorway to the opposite wall, and then, joining the laid rows, lead new rows to the side walls.

When choosing a way to lay laminate in your apartment or house, you need to understand that laying laminate without thresholds is the most difficult of all methods. Therefore, it is not worth taking it on without theoretical training and practical skills. But the final choice is yours.

Regardless of the choice - good luck! Smooth and durable floors for your home!

Non-threshold laminate flooring is one of the options for finishing the floor in adjacent rooms connected by doorways. Benefits of installing laminate flooring without joints:

  • neat appearance of the floor in the doorway;
  • visual expansion of space in the room;
  • lack of zoning in a studio apartment;
  • a higher level of security when moving between rooms;
  • convenience during cleaning.

But, choosing this method of installing a laminate, you need to take into account the fact that all its manufacturers do not recommend laying this type of flooring with a single sheet without joints in several rooms. This is due to the fact that the material is based on wood fibers, which have a tendency to change linear dimensions under the influence of moisture and changes in air temperature in the room. The larger the floor area, the more likely it is to bulge. The joints are at the same time expansion joints that prevent unpleasant consequences.

Other disadvantages of the seamless method of doing laminate flooring work:

  • if it becomes necessary to replace one of the boards, you have to sort out the entire floor;
  • slightly more material consumption;
  • installation will take more time;
  • it is advisable to entrust the work to an experienced specialist, which means that the cost of finishing the floor will increase significantly.

Important! Installation of laminate without joints over a large area automatically voids the warranty on the purchased material, as it is a direct violation of the installation instructions.

If you definitely want to avoid the installation of protruding elements between rooms, but at the same time there is no desire to take risks by laying a laminated coating in a continuous web over a large area, then you can join the laminate without a threshold with tiles.


Rules for performing non-threshold laying of laminate

The junction of laminate and laminate without installing a threshold can be performed if certain conditions are met:

  1. It is not recommended to use the seamless method of laying laminate on an area of ​​​​more than 50 square meters. m.
  2. It is strictly forbidden to lay this type of flooring without joints on an area of ​​​​more than 120 square meters. m.
  3. Finishing the floor with laminate without a threshold in rooms with high humidity is not recommended.
  4. The stock of material with a non-threshold laying method should be at least 10-12%.
  5. The difference in the base of the floor in height in the area of ​​​​the doorway for laying the laminate without a joint should be no more than 3-5 mm.
  6. Before deciding on this method of flooring installation, it is necessary to carefully measure the door leaf and the distance from it to the subfloor (the base for the laminate). It will be necessary to calculate the height of the finished floor, taking into account the thickness of the laminate. After installation, the gap between the door leaf and the floor covering must be at least 1 cm. This is necessary so that the door opens freely and does not touch the floor.
  7. You need to start laying laminate flooring from the largest room from the corner to the doorway.

Important! For a correct calculation of the required amount of material and more convenient work, it is recommended to follow the layout of the panels.


Rules for performing work on the installation of a non-threshold joint of laminate with tiles:

  • This method of combining two types of flooring is suitable for zoning a large kitchen-dining room (the floor in the kitchen area is tiled, and in the dining area - with laminate).
  • The thickness of both materials must match. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the substrate under the laminate and the adhesive layer under the tile.
  • The gap between different materials should be minimal.
  • A non-threshold connection is especially recommended for a curved joint.

Choice of laminate

Laminate, joined without seams, must be water or moisture resistant. These types of laminate flooring are less susceptible to warping when exposed to moisture (especially water resistant), which will help reduce the risk of blistering.

According to the method of joining parts, a laminate with adhesive and lock fastening (Lock or Click) is distinguished. The adhesive significantly enhances the protection of the flooring from moisture due to the fact that it seals the joints between the panels. Therefore, in order to lay a laminate without thresholds, it is better to give preference to this particular method. But, when choosing it, you need to understand that a laminate floor bonded with an adhesive method cannot be dismantled, unlike a floor laid by a locking method without attachment to the base.

Lock and Click laminate joints differ from each other in the sequence of installation work. Panels of the first type are laid sequentially one at a time, and the second - immediately in whole rows. This must be taken into account when laying out the coating along the doorways. Rows may be too long. It is impossible to lay out panels with Click-type fasteners in narrow places, including in the opening, without additional devices. Connecting them, use a bracket. One end is inserted into the seam, and the other end is lightly hit with a hammer several times.

Substrate

For laying laminate, including without joints, you will definitely need a substrate. It can be purchased at the same time as the flooring. Types of substrate for laminate flooring:

  • polyethylene foam - additionally performs the functions of heat, sound and waterproofing, the most affordable option, but quickly sags;
  • polystyrene foam - inexpensive, has a good degree of sound insulation, will help eliminate small irregularities in the base, but over time it also loses its shape, contains formaldehyde, burns easily;
  • cork - an environmentally friendly material, gives the floor a high degree of heat and sound insulation, but is afraid of moisture, therefore it requires additional waterproofing layer flooring;
  • bitumen-cork - has better moisture resistance, but is not suitable for living rooms, since bitumen is present in its composition;
  • coniferous - another environmentally friendly heat and sound insulating material, resistant to moisture, but contains allergens, crumbles while working with it, insects may appear.

When choosing a substrate for a seamless laminate flooring, special attention should be paid to waterproofing properties.

Additional waterproofing

To increase the degree of protection of a seamless laminate floor from swelling under the influence of moisture, a waterproofing layer is sometimes additionally laid. This is done in the following cases:

  • selected cork substrate;
  • when finishing the floor on the first floor of a building, the foundation of which is poorly protected from moisture;
  • if the floor below is a room with a constantly high level of humidity (kitchen, bathroom, basement).

As a waterproofing material, a clean solid polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.2 mm is used. Strips from it are laid across the direction of laying the substrate, with an overlap of at least 20 cm and a few centimeters on the walls. They are glued together with adhesive tape. The film cannot completely replace the substrate, and it makes no sense to lay it in several layers.

Laying laminate in a doorway without a threshold

Laminate without thresholds between rooms is laid in the usual way. Options for the location of laminated panels:

  • along windows;
  • across the windows (the seams between the laminate will be less noticeable);
  • at an angle of 45 degrees - when using this method, the space visually expands, but the material consumption is the largest.

Some features of installation without a joint appear only in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bdoorways. Work order:

  • If the doors are already installed, it is recommended to remove the door leaves before joining the panels near the openings.
  • The distance from the laid laminated panels to the walls must be at least 1 cm. To comply with this condition, wedges can be installed near the box.
  • File the door frame and put the laminate board under it, into the resulting gap. Then the transition of the floor between the rooms will turn out to be imperceptible.

Performing work on the installation of a non-threshold joint of laminate and tiles:

  • Start finishing the floor with laying tiles.
  • Lay out the tiles in the area of ​​the doorway, going beyond the joining line.
  • After laying the entire laminate floor, lay its last row on the tile without bonding it to the previous one.
  • Mark the seam line on the boards.
  • Cut the panels that will be connected to the tiles according to the basting. The cuts must be made very carefully. If necessary, they must be sanded with sandpaper.
  • Remove dust from tiles and laminate.
  • Fasten the laminated panels to each other and to the previous row.
  • Fill the joint with grout, silicone sealant or mastic.

Important! If it was not possible to achieve an ideal transition between different materials, then you can install a decorative molding for tiles in the seam, which reliably and beautifully joins the parts of the floor.


Conclusion

Laminate, laid without setting thresholds, looks beautiful, but choosing this way of decorating the floor, you need to carefully study all its shortcomings. Perhaps it is better to prefer reliability to external advantages.

Regularly receiving calls from clients, I was faced with the fact that many do not understand correctly or do not understand at all what "no threshold" or full laminate flooring, I will briefly try to explain what it is, as well as consider the pros and cons of such a laminate installation.

Laminate flooring without thresholds throughout the apartment, this is when the laminate is laid in several rooms with one contour, those. we do not break the laminate in the doorway, as in the usual laying of the laminate, continuing to lay in the next room. Accordingly, no thresholds will need to be set in the doorway. The scheme for laying laminate without thresholds is quite simple, but it is desirable to have at least a little experience so that the floors turn out beautiful.

Pros and cons of laying laminate flooring without thresholds

A big plus of laying laminate in one contour is that the floor looks really beautiful. Lamina laid by the “no-threshold” method looks like one piece. This method is very good for rooms with wide doorways or arches instead of doors, the threshold there will not look very aesthetically pleasing. Although the choice of thresholds for flooring is now very large.

Of the minuses laying laminate without thresholds it is worth noting that the length of the inseparable web is strictly limited, the manufacturer does not recommend laying the laminate in strips longer than 6 meters (different types of laminate have different requirements, read the instructions for your laminate).

Device work laminate will come out a little more expensive than with conventional installation, this is due to some technological difficulties with such installation. Laminate without thresholds usually takes a little longer to install.

During the operation of the floor where the laminate is laid with one sheet without thresholds, the probability of damage to the lock and the appearance of a gap, although small, is still greater than with conventional installation.

No-threshold laminate flooring not possible in rooms with different levels of the subfloor and laminate with different types of locks and sizes.

Also, if it becomes necessary to partially repair the flooring during the continuous laying of the laminate, some difficulties may arise.

In the end, it's up to you to decide laying laminate flooring throughout the apartment or separately in each room. Since the price of laying laminate without thresholds is slightly higher than the usual laying, this criterion practically does not affect the choice of the consumer. It is better to choose the method in which the floor in the room will look more harmonious and always delight your eyes.

From my own experience, I will say that after all, most people now prefer it laying laminate without thresholds. As a master, I am not at all against laying laminate in one contour.