Why does a table with metal legs wobble? Fastening the table legs to the tabletop. On the Structural Effect of Seasonal Deformations
spar 15-12-2012 10:02
More specifically, his legs. The fastening there is tricky, well, more precisely, newfangled, I’ll take a picture right now. So it's not possible to twist and pull. The whole knot dangles somehow sluggishly and that's it. Throwing away the table is simply a pity, it is as good as new, although it has been seven years already.
Who knows the thread - such bells and whistles are sold, and can they be changed?
Claude 15-12-2012 10:42
Try to take it apart carefully first. Mounts - most likely eccentric screeds. Rotate the "barrel" with the arrow and it will disengage. Look what's broken. Furniture fittings stores sell similar ones (there are also different lengths) - you can pick up new ones.
Or is it corny to screw on spikes / self-tapping screws?
Maybe not yet.
Scarecrow wise 15-12-2012 10:50
Make (buy) corners of metal, with holes - and fasten with screws, connect the legs and bars. But this is a chore - you need a lot of corners (actually, 8) and then twist for a long time - at least 4 screws per corner, otherwise it will not fix.
spar 15-12-2012 11:10
What will have to be disassembled is understandable. The main thing is that they are sold.
Well, to the corners, this is already outdated technology, and it's a chore, of course.
I'll tinker if I don't understand, or I understand that there is a lot of fuss - self-tapping screws and that's it.
Omul 15-12-2012 16:35
Lynch the technologist. The table is imported. This is a spiral tie. I met Italians like that. You probably won't find it for sale. Extremely unfortunate solution for attaching the legs. A photo of the disassembled unit would be, there is one option.
Omul 15-12-2012 17:38
quote: Originally posted by mukdiver:
Convert to nut
Yes. Select the diameter and length of the stud and the concave gasket for the nut.
Yes, you don't need corners. The flight will get sick. Too much shoulder. And tighten the nut.
cocoa 15-12-2012 18:38
pin diameter and length
That's just need to apparently special furniture hairpin. This is when at one end there is a metric thread (here you need an M6 furniture standard) and at the other end the screw thread of which this stud is screwed in instead of the factory one and so on
quote: Originally posted by Omul:
concave nut gasket
Only this hairpin must be selected according to the length. I just strengthened my kitchen in such or almost such a manner, the difference is in the details.
P.S. But it won't be strong enough for me. Apparently it is necessary to connect the under-table boards with a metal jumper, this is near the legs.
spar 15-12-2012 18:39
unname22 15-12-2012 19:25
Another year or two is enough. Then you can repeat
spar 15-12-2012 20:36
Is it to remove the mount, or to smear it with it?
unname22 15-12-2012 20:44
1. Remove the mount.
2. Spread PVA with sawdust abundantly, without sparing.
3. Screw the fastener.
4. Wipe the outside with a cloth that came out.
mukdiver 15-12-2012 20:45
quote: disassemble, mix PVA-M with sawdust and collect abundantly missed.
Another year or two is enough. Then you can repeat
Yeah, and fasten with wire
Claude 15-12-2012 22:29
quote: Originally posted by Spar:
I didn’t find anything in the district ... I’ll have to arrange rides to the construction site tomorrow
See where they sell furniture fittings. You can have familiar furniture assemblers. You can also ask at mastercity, in the furniture section.
If you dismantled (they should have been, for display on the fastening market) - show a photo of the screed (this is most likely a screed) - it will be easier to search.
Maybe something like this - http://www.mdm-complect.ru/cat...D=1560&ID=65033
Omul 16-12-2012 02:28
Like it. But the connection is initially wrong. Will get loose.
ehpebitor 16-12-2012 12:05
quote: Originally posted by Spar:If you have not staggered for so many years, then you do not need to throw it away.
Throwing away the table is simply a pity, it is as good as new, although it has been seven years already.
quote: Originally posted by Spar:
So it's not possible to twist and pull. The whole knot dangles somehow sluggishly and that's it.
The tree dried out over time, or the stem got out a couple of mm, so the eccentric does not attract.
The stem (where the thread is) put on good glue and screw into place, let dry for a day.
Former furniture technologist.
spar 16-12-2012 13:11
Hooray!
Everything got fixed. When disassembling the assembly, it turned out that the rods that enter the mating part on the threads on both sides were untwisted, and the eccentric coupler was simply not enough.
quote: Originally posted by ehpebitor:
so the eccentric does not attract.
The tree is pretty good. nothing has dried up anywhere, nothing is broken.
So all that was needed was to disassemble the assembly from both sides, fasten the rods - and everything is ok.
Everyone thank you very much both for advice and for active participation!
The table now stands like a rock again.
There can be two reasons. Either the legs rest unevenly on the floor, or the table is unstuck. In the first case, you need to find out the reason: an uneven floor or legs of different lengths. Here we are talking about a table, but all this fully applies to a chair and, in general, to any "four-legged" furniture.
If the reason is uneven legs, then we put the table upside down, put a plank of the same width on each pair of legs, as shown in Fig. 1 to see which of the four legs is shorter or longer.
If one of the legs is longer than all the others, it must be shortened. How much? This can be determined using the targeting staff (Fig. 2). Now accurately outline the cutting line. With a sharp pencil, first we draw a line on one side of the leg, and then on the opposite side and saw off exactly along the line. We clean the cut surface and edges with a file.
If one of the legs is shorter than the others. In this case, you can increase one leg (then the table will maintain its height) or shorten the other three (then the height of the table will be less). If we settled on the first option and we are talking about only 1-3 mm, we glue or nail a leather or rubber lining to the short leg from below.
If you need to build up more, then we attach a plywood lining to the lower end of the leg with glue and screws, which is somewhat larger in size than the section of the leg. Screw heads must be recessed! After the glue dries, we cut off the protruding parts of the lining, correct it with a chisel and clean it with a file.
If three legs need to be shortened to the length of the fourth, put the table on an absolutely flat place, put a wedge under the short leg so that the table does not stagger (Fig. 3). Directly along the line of contact between the wedge and the edge of the leg, we draw a line with a pencil and saw the wedge along it. We apply the sawn off part of the wedge with the cut surface to the rest of the legs and draw a line along which we shorten them.
If the table or chair wobbles due to the fragility of the adhesive joints, it is necessary to restore them. We do it like this:
- 1. We disassemble fragile connections and clean them from glue.
- 2. We connect the parts again with glue. If there are no large clamps at hand, we take a strong rope, wrap it around the table twice and tighten it, twisting the rope with a wooden knob (Fig. 4.5). In the corners under the rope, we first put linings so as not to scratch the furniture.
- 3. In order to maintain the required distance between the legs in their lower part when tightening, we place spacers of the appropriate length between them.
- 4. Corners can be further reinforced with lining.
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Now there is no need to constantly ensure that the table does not stagger by placing napkins, coasters under the table legs or twisting the screw legs. Moving tables has become easier, and docking of tabletops is perfect. Wobbling tables are no longer an inconvenience to customers and staff. Fewer customer complaints, less crockery. You save time on maintenance, and the institution's revenue grows due to mobility.
How does FLAT work?
FLAT technology reacts to changes in table pressure on the supports. When any of them lose contact with the surface, caused by an uneven floor, the technology immediately redistributes the load between the remaining legs. And a special patented mechanism fixes them in a new position. Thanks to this, all table legs always have a fulcrum under them. And no matter how many times you move the table - the system always works. And even daily cleaning of the premises will not cause more trouble - you do not need to worry about returning each table strictly to its place.
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A table with loose legs causes irritation, I want to remove it already from sight. But if the table itself is valuable, or you are used to it as a family heirloom, then you want to keep it. You can think about self repair, especially since in most cases it is not too difficult to fix the design.
We are talking about a table in which all the parts are intact, only the glued joints have parted. This happens with almost all pieces of furniture, having served for many years, the product requires repair. There are no obstacles in order to update the design with your own hands at home.
To work, you will need a hammer, glue, a thin brush, clamps or a belt with a clip, sanding paper. It must be understood that knocking down the legs with nails, or twisting with self-tapping screws will not work. Gouge the details, but there will be little sense. Just after such a repair, the table will definitely have to be thrown away.
Therefore, it is better to take the matter seriously, especially since there are no difficulties here.
The first thing we do in any repair option is to completely disassemble the loose base. If the assembly was round spikes(dowels), then we clean them of the old glue and prepare to put them back in place. If the spikes are broken, you will have to re-drill the nests and use ready-made round dowels from the store.
The article is close to the topic, just with the replacement of broken dowels.
If the dowels are loose after cleaning, that is, they enter the nests too easily, then the thickness of the spike must be increased. This is done by winding gauze with glue, or sticking veneer on a dowel. After processing, we check how the spikes enter the sockets and, if necessary, sand them in thickness.
Pictures instructables.com
We apply glue to the dowels and be sure to the nests themselves. The brush usually does not fit there, so we apply the glue with a narrow wooden chip.
We insert the dowels into the sockets and assemble the connection by knocking the parts with a mallet, or with a hammer through wooden block not to damage the coating. In order for the parts to stick together well, it is necessary to compress the parts with clamps, or with a ratchet belt.
There is another way to qualitatively fix a loose leg. To do this, you need to buy corner ties for tables in the store, it is better to have four at once for all legs.
Then we proceed as follows: Remove the countertop and mechanisms, if the table is sliding. Then we take a screed, apply it inside the corner of the underframe and mark the installation site.
For greater rigidity, the ends of the plate are bent inward, therefore, according to the marking, it is necessary to make cuts on the sides.
We install the screed in the cuts and mark the place for screwing in the metal stud along the central hole. We drill a nest for a hairpin by 1-2 mm. smaller than the pin diameter.
We screw the pin into the table leg and pull the tie plate into place with self-tapping screws.
It remains only to screw the nut or lamb onto the stud and tighten the corner of the underframe well.
This method is good because, if necessary, the table can be pulled up again.
From negative points there is only one, an expensive table assembled from valuable wood will lose some of its value. Nevertheless, the classic assembly of furniture is done on spikes with glue.
♦ An old wardrobe can be given the new kind if the front surface, with the exception of panels, is pasted over with a cloth, wallpaper, film. Facing material in color and pattern, it must match the wall covering. Such a closet will look especially good in the bedroom.
♦ So that the legs of furniture - chairs, armchairs, tables - do not scratch the floor, stick felt circles on them.
♦ To avoid damaging floors when moving furniture, place plastic can caps under the legs to reduce friction.
♦ Place a thick woolen rug under the feet of the object being moved. With it, it is easier to overcome thresholds. You need to work together - one pulls the rug, the other pushes the cabinet.
♦ It's not easy to pull out a drawer, chest of drawers or tumblr when the handle breaks off. A plunger will help to cope with this task. It is enough to press it against the box near the place where the handle was, and pull it towards you. The box will move easily if it is not overloaded and does not “stick”.
♦ Polished furniture, mirrors, TV screens, lamp shades, window panes are easily electrified and attract dust. To get rid of this, wipe the surfaces with a mixture of 1 part shampoo, 1 part antistatic and 8 parts water.
♦ If the kitchen drawer or desk opens with difficulty, wipe the edges of the drawer and the grooves into which it enters with dry soap or a candle.
♦ After pasting the apartment with wallpaper and mopping the furniture, you can put it in its place, but you should not push it tightly against the walls earlier than after ten days. Curtains, carpets, paintings and other items are also undesirable to hang before this time.
♦ Cleanliness and comfort in the apartment largely depend on the arrangement of furniture and carpets in it.
♦ Furniture is sensitive to changes in temperature, air humidity in the apartment, as well as to the action of sunlight. This is especially important for lacquered furniture. In damp rooms, it fades, spots appear on it. At elevated temperature the lacquer layer is covered with a network of small wrinkles due to the drying of the wood.
♦ Direct Sun rays(especially those that have not passed through window glass) cause irreversible changes in the lacquer coating: it fades, becomes stained and cracked. Lacquer coatings lose their appearance also due to the ingress of water, solvents on them, from contact with hot objects.
♦ Often, due to lack of space on the closet, a whole warehouse is arranged: there are suitcases, boxes, bundles. They don't decorate the room at all. The matter can be corrected if; close everything beautiful curtains. Racks are placed between the cabinet and the ceiling (spread or attached to the cabinet), horizontal tubes are inserted between them, curtains move along the tubes.
♦ Heavy shelves can be hung with bolts. Holes are knocked out in the wall with a margin and bolts are cemented in them so that the thread protrudes to the desired length. The shelves are fastened with nuts.
♦ To wooden bed did not creak, it is necessary to put cloth pads in the mating points.
♦ Over time, tables with removable legs are pretty loose. Neither tightening the wing nuts, nor even plywood helps. To eliminate this drawback, it is necessary to hammer into the ends of the boards that form the box of the table, up to half nails without hats, and drill holes for them in the legs. Now, when the “lambs” are twisted, the nails will take on the wedging force and securely strengthen the legs.
♦ Of course, the uneven leg of the rocking table can be filed or, on the contrary, something can be placed under it. However, it is better to fix the defect once and for all by gluing some kind of thrust bearing. desired thickness. And a small wedge will help to determine it exactly: having eliminated the swing thanks to it, we mark on it with a pencil the place of the stop of the leg - this will be the required thickness of the thrust bearing.
♦ For furniture made from particle boards, doors often fly off - the screws do not hold well in the walls. We recommend strengthening them as follows: carefully drill the hole for the screw to a diameter of 8 mm, drive a wooden cork into it with glue and wrap the screw into it.
♦ Perhaps, ball or magnetic latches for table doors are good, but they slam painfully when closing and opening.
However, there is a simple and “quiet” option: use Velcro fasteners “burdock-nick” widely used in clothes. To do this, it is enough to attach strips of such Velcro checks to the doors and to the place to which they are pressed when closing.
♦ If there is not enough space in the hallway, and you have a large family, then an unusual shoe on the front door will help you conveniently arrange numerous shoes.
It is a wooden box hung on the door with a plywood wall, on which ring-shaped pockets made of dense fabric or leatherette for shoes are stuffed.
♦ It doesn't matter if the springs on the sofa sagged. Discard the springs and pull on the frame (not very tight) interlaced straps. Their own width and the distance between them fluctuates from 40 to 60 mm. Fasten them well. Put a simple, strong fabric on top, one or two layers of foam rubber on it, then fabric again. Attach it to the frame. And finally, stretch the tapestry.
♦ The lock "magnet latch" does not need recommendations. It is comfortable and works very reliably. However, the installation of the latch requires special accuracy. When doing this work, take a piece of plasticine. After installing one half of the latch, apply thin layer plasticine on the door area. After closing the door, get an exact imprint of the place for the second half of the latch.
♦ Remind you reliable way repair of swaying chairs. To firmly attach the spike to the socket, you need to expand the socket by 2-3 mm, and make two longitudinal cuts in the spike for half its length. Then make two wedges and insert their ends into the cuts. Lubricate the spike and socket with glue and firmly insert everything into its original place.
♦ The legs of kitchen stools will stop screwing out if rubber pads are placed under them.
♦ It doesn't matter if wooden legs stools, the screws swayed. You can fix them by doing this: drill the screw through with a two-millimeter drill, and half the leg, grease the screw with glue, put it in place and fix it with a nail.
♦ If kitchen stool with a metal frame in the socket where the leg is screwed in, the thread has broken, do not be upset, the matter can be fixed. Take a nut with the same thread and grind off its end. In a hole with a damaged thread, make two cuts with a needle file under the protrusions of the nut, select a recess for it in the seat. It remains to put the nut and screw the leg.
♦ Loose chairs that have braces that connect the frame can be reinforced in a simple way. Holes are drilled in the legs to a shallow depth, well, in the struts - through holes. After that, screws are screwed into them so that the latter pull off the struts and knives. Chairs repaired in this way will serve for more than one year.
If the chair began to dry out, only complete disassembly with subsequent gluing can save it. The only thing that can postpone such a difficult repair for many years is the installation of a couple of screeds. Such ties are threaded studs made of steel wire with a diameter of 3 or 4 mm, passed crosswise through the legs and fixed with a pair of nuts each.
♦ It happens that the loosened legs of the chair are still quite firmly seated in the seat frame and it is undesirable to undo them. In this case, it is more convenient to repair the legs with the help of not glue, but metal corners: no traces of restoration will be visible, and the reliability of fastening is guaranteed.
♦ The back of a chair can be flat, but curved is much more comfortable. How to make such? This does not require special equipment, and the technology here is simple. Enough to have furniture clamp and a few auxiliary wooden bars.
The middle of the plywood blank of the back is steamed over the spout of a boiling kettle. Then the back is laid on two bars, the steamed place is pressed with a clamp and left for a day or two in this position - the deflection will remain even after the load is removed from the workpiece.
♦ For some reason, there is always not enough space in any bedside table, and a shoebox in the hallway is not a panacea. It is necessary to store both shoes, and boots, and slippers. But putting it all in two layers is inconvenient and unhygienic.
We offer an easy way to increase the capacity of the galoshna. It is necessary, having measured the diagonal of the space between the shelves, to cut out plywood inserts equal to it - instead of the usual shelves, you will get triangular two-story compartments that will accommodate twice as many shoes, as if there were two tum-barrels in one.
♦ Cabinet shelves do not always require a constant position at a certain level. Temporarily, any of them can be fixed at the desired height using wooden wedges inserted between the shelf and the cabinet wall.
♦ One careless movement of a child pulling a box from furniture wall, - and all the contents with a roar are on the floor. But it’s not so much the child’s fault as the dad’s: after all, it’s easy to make a “brake” hook from a small bar in the box, fixing a reciprocal stopper over the box.
♦ Often occurs such a defect wooden furniture like drying out. If cracks and other defects of the monolithic solid wood do not violate the structural strength of the furniture, it is quite amenable to restoration.
After putting the plug-in elements on the glue and waiting for complete drying, treat the surface with a planer, then with a jointer, if necessary, cycle and sand with a fine-grained sandpaper. As a result, after a very simple intervention in appearance closet or table, you yourself will not recognize it.
