We build a chimney and an outlet with our own hands. How to assemble a simple stainless steel chimney. Inner insulation layer

06.11.2019 Heating

The chimney is a necessary part of the heating system of a private house. It ensures the proper functioning of the furnace or boiler, organizes the removal of harmful combustion products outside the housing.

We will try to figure out how to equip the chimney with our own hands so that the heating communications are safe for both people and the house.

The requirements set forth in the regulatory documentation are imposed on the installation of heating devices.

The installation of devices is regulated by the provisions SNiP 2.04.05–91 and DBN V.2.5-20-2001. Also, before drawing up a project, it is advisable to study materials on heating systems ( SNiP 41-01-2003), about heat generation devices ( NPB 252–98), on the technical conditions for the operation of thermal devices ( GOST 9817–95), on the rules and regulations for the operation of smoke channels (VDPO).

The design of the chimney and installation features must fully comply with the requirements specified in the SNiP, otherwise you will not receive a certificate of inspection of the structure, which is issued after commissioning

Part of the requirements is addressed specifically to the device of chimneys. The design of the structure can be anything, but the material of manufacture must be non-combustible.

The materials used for the construction of chimneys can be:

steel;
ceramics;
brick.

Without exception, all structures are prefabricated, and the installation itself is fragmentary, since the chimney passes through several rooms (for example, a room and an attic).

In order for the structure to meet fire safety requirements, it is necessary to correctly calculate its parameters, as well as select all the component parts by size. When installing factory equipment, it is necessary to follow all the recommendations set out in the instructions, including the assembly procedure and methods for mounting parts.

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Transitions through floors and roofs require the use of fire-retardant thermal insulation materials, such as mineral wool, and the installation of protective blocks, which can be called a "sandwich in a sandwich"

The construction of a chimney for a gas boiler, stove or fireplace is a responsible task that requires special permission, design and professional skills. If you are not confident in your abilities, entrust the installation of the pipe to specialists who will perform the work taking into account all norms and requirements.

If you have already had to build a chimney yourself or you are an expert in this matter, please share your experience and knowledge with our readers. Tell us about the nuances of building a chimney in the block below.

Today, the installation of a stainless steel chimney is becoming more commonplace than brickwork to remove combustion products from a residential building. The popularity of prefabricated stainless steel modular structures, including chimneys, is due to ease of assembly, reliability and long service life. For their production, only high-quality chrome-plated material, steel sheets and galvanization are used, as well as alloys with various percentages of metals known for their increased resistance to external environmental influences.

The main parameters of stainless chimneys

On the modern construction market, chimneys made of stainless steel and various other alloys are presented in a large assortment, and all of them meet the basic operational requirements. There are chimneys for various types of boilers:

diesel;
gas;
solid fuel;
combined type;
universal.

Metal chimneys vary in shape:

straight;
telescopic;
stainless sandwich chimneys;
corrugated flexible stainless chimneys.

The quality of installation not only affects the rapid formation of stable traction, but also the efficiency of the boiler and the safety of the residents of the house. Do not forget that during combustion, depending on the type of fuel, not only heat is released, but also:

soot;
volatile acid compounds;
gaseous combustion products;
carbon monoxide;
volatile resins;
ammonia and other compounds.

To protect yourself and your loved ones from any trouble, it is important to ensure that all these harmful volatile compounds are removed through the chimney, especially carbon monoxide or CO. When installing stainless chimneys, it is equally important to comply with all safety measures and legal regulations. They are set out in specialized literature and legislative acts.

The essence of these standards is that it is important that the section of the chimney matches the power of the boiler, the height of the chimney is more than 5 m, and it is removed above the roof level in order to avoid turbulence and reverse draft. And the chimney channel should have a minimum of turns and broken segments. The dimensions of stainless steel chimneys are initially taken into account by manufacturers, so industrial production is subject to these standards.

Basic requirements for a chimney:

smooth surface and rounded shape contribute to stable traction;
the formation of condensate is minimal;
high rates of heat resistance and tightness;
ease of installation and maintenance;
fire resistance and safety.

However, all these advantages can only be guaranteed if all the recommendations for assembling the structure are followed, which are shared by experts - stainless steel chimneys installation: video.

Attention: When buying stainless steel chimneys of a modular type, be sure to thoroughly study the section in the instructions that deals with its compliance with the power for which the boiler or furnace is designed!

In addition to proper installation, accessibility to the chimney is no less important - for its cleaning and maintenance, as well as condensate removal, which requires a separate pipe.

Flexible stainless chimneys greatly facilitate the installation of an autonomous heating system, especially if it is impossible to maintain a straight trajectory of the smoke exhaust system. The corrugation is effective even at high temperatures, up to 900°C, working on fuel oil, and is also not afraid of temperature changes and quickly warms up providing stable traction when the boiler is started. The main parts of the prefabricated structure are similar, but the chimney pipe itself is different.

In brickwork, rather wide channels of elliptical cross-section are sometimes used, that is, with an oval cross-section. Their shape also does not contribute to the accumulation of soot and smoke from reverse thrust.

Also available:

single-circuit or single-wall chimneys, the so-called mono-systems (chimney option without insulation), which can withstand temperatures within 450 ° C, applicable inside the building, including corrugation;
double-circuit thermal systems (with a double or triple layer of chimney) on a basalt wool insulation between the metal.

There is also the possibility of additional insulation of a stainless chimney, which will be discussed in the last section of the article. But it is required only for external structures.

The quality of the chimney system is also affected by:

1. The thickness of the walls, which are calculated and fixed in the regulations:

for gas boilers, the thickness of the chimney channel ranges from 0.5 mm,
on diesel fuel - from 0.8 mm;
for solid fuel boilers - from 1 mm.

2. Configuration. The ideal chimney is straight, and the fewer bends, turns and protrusions, the more effective the draft and the less soot accumulation. A smooth cylindrical chimney pipe of sufficient cross section contributes to efficient operation.

3. The proportions of the diameter (section), the length of the pipe or the height of the chimney provide sufficient traction. Stainless steel chimneys with a diameter smaller than necessary for normal operation will reduce the efficiency of the boiler, fireplace or stove. Experts also argue that it should rise above the top point of the roof by at least 20 cm, and the chimney itself should not be shorter than 5 m.

Special parts solve problems with its maintenance:

revision with soot removal;
condensate drain;
air intake for the combustion process;
chimney for rain protection.

What metal is used for chimneys

"Stainless steel" refers to a group of alloys based on steel with a low chromium content or galvanized sheet iron - "galvanized" is more correct. Such products are distinguished by excellent anti-corrosion characteristics when interacting with oxygen, water and the aggressive environment of acid compounds released during combustion. This provides a deposition of several microns of chromium oxides, which is why the process is called "chromium plating".

For chimneys, steel of different grades is used:

430 - casings and other details for environments of low aggressiveness;
409 - contains titanium, go to the pipes of fireplaces, solid fuel boilers and stoves;
316 - with the addition of nickel and molybdenum for heat resistance and resistance to acid compounds in diesel furnaces;
304 - with the same additives, but in smaller quantities for less aggressive environments;
321 - universal brand for chimney pipes with increased heat resistance, up to 850°C;
310 - the most heat-resistant, durable and strong chimneys for the most powerful heating equipment.

Attention: Different grades of steel are used for multilayer sandwich pipes. On the inner table it is more resistant and heat-resistant, on the outer table it is cheaper and simpler, so it does not look as impressive as a single-layer chimney.

Main elements and their characteristics

The chimney consists of several elements that have different purposes and assembly order:

tee;
pipe elbow;
revision;
condensate collector.

1. The main element is a long straight chimney pipe of different lengths, and its fragments are connected like a socket without any special fastening.

2. An inclined bend (at an angle of 45°) connects 2 pipes, changing the slope of the chimney, and it is used at the junction of horizontal and vertical fragments.

3. The universal elbow (90° angle) is also used as a swivel to change the configuration of the chimney. Several of these elements are used throughout the chimney - from the top to the junction of the boiler pipe.

4. Tees lead flue gases into the chimney and cut off the condensate. They are also joined in a bell-shaped way or one-to-one.

5. A condensate drain is placed under the tee to drain excess liquid.

6. Revision - an open element, which is designed to clean the chimney from soot. Mounted under the tee at the base of the vertical shaft - picture:

Stainless steel chimney installation

Modular chimneys today are most widely used due to their ease of assembly. This principle makes it possible not to waste time on time-consuming fastening and sealing of the chimney. Given how extensive the choice of parts for the assembly of stainless chimneys, it is possible to vary its configuration as much as possible without compromising the draft and operation of the boilers. Sometimes you can’t do without a corrugation or several elbows in order to competently build a chimney with minimal reconstruction of the walls.

1. Preparation for installation involves calculations for the intended configuration of the chimney, a preliminary sketch and marking of the walls along which its fastening is planned. This will allow you to most accurately calculate the total length of the structure and select the necessary rotary parts for the pipe joint.

Attention: Don't forget to add an outer section, which should be at least 25-50 cm above the level of the roof ridge - to ensure traction in any weather.

2. Before assembling the chimney inside the pipe, the seams are supposed to be treated with a special sealant, which guarantees maximum efficiency of the joints. The outer and outer walls do not require this.

3. Proper installation of the chimney is done from the boiler or furnace, that is, from the bottom up, sequentially joining all the elbows and pipe links. Docking by the type of bell - when the upper pipe is inserted into the lower one on a special latch. If it is not there, but the shrinkage depth is almost half the outer diameter.

4. The links at the joint must be securely fixed with the clamps that are included in the kit. The finished pipe must be attached to the wall or supporting structures at intervals of one and a half to two meters, and separate brackets are used for mounting bends and tees.

Attention: Make sure that horizontal sections and knees do not lie on communications. Fragments must not come into contact with gas pipes and electrical wiring!

As you can see, do-it-yourself stainless steel chimneys are quite simple to make. This will require 2 pairs of working hands and 1-2 for time. If you still have questions - watch the video on the installation of the chimney:

Tip: Make sure that the condensate does not go past the pipes, falling onto the insulation and insulation. Also carefully treat the joints with sealant. It is important to correctly bring the chimney through the roof, as described in more detail in the previous article.

Chimney insulation

This is one of the important stages in the completion of the construction of the chimney. Without insulation, which is provided only for stainless steel sandwich chimneys, the installation will have disadvantages. With a poorly insulated chimney, it is problematic to ensure stable draft when starting the boiler or lighting up the fireplace. And its rapid cooling reduces the overall efficiency of the entire autonomous heating system. In addition, the condensate that forms on the metal walls with a temperature difference between the outside and inside gradually destroys the inner walls of the chimney and reduces its efficiency.

A sandwich-like design is very popular today when installing and insulating a chimney for modern boilers:

universal;
solid fuel;
gas;
combined.

They operate in interval mode, i.e. "stop-start". Solid fuel boilers require reloading fuel and cleaning the ash pan, so they do not turn off for some time. And constantly working boilers, when the required temperature is reached, when the sensor or relay is triggered, they turn off on their own to avoid overheating. When the temperature in the room drops to a predetermined level, automatic heating also works automatically.

During the “sleep mode”, the temperature in the chimney also drops, a difference is formed outside and inside the chimney, and condensate falls. When the boiler warms up for a long time, it slows down the operation of the heating system, which leads to excessive fuel consumption.

As a heater, a mineral filler is used - basalt wool, which is known for its excellent refractory parameters. She wraps the pipe in layers and wire and / or clamps fix such a “blanket”. These materials are not afraid of high temperatures, so the chimney can run on any type of fuel, warming up to 1000°C. However, basalt wool must be isolated from excess moisture, since dampness reduces the effectiveness of insulation.

For waterproofing, galvanized or stainless steel is used, which is fastened with self-tapping screws over the finished “blanket”. To cope with such work, you will need metal scissors and work skills. But such caps of the required diameter are easier to order ready-made in a specialized workshop. And at home there will be no problems in order to complete the final stage of warming.

Attention: At the end of the installation, the top of the pipe must be fixed so that it is not blown away by a strong gust of wind or a tornado. At the top, a chimney is necessarily mounted, protecting the entire system from the penetration of precipitation.

Chimneys - brick chimneys have existed since ancient times - from the appearance of the first stoves and fireplaces, lined with bricks. One of the disadvantages of these chimneys is the shape of their section - rectangular. The presence of corners impairs the flow of gases around the chimney from the combustion of firewood, which reduces traction. However, the main disadvantage of a brick chimney is its slow heating, which leads to condensation. The result is an acidic cocktail of water and soot that seeps into brick and joint joints, reducing strength and destroying the chimney.

Features of stainless steel chimneys

The appearance of stainless steel chimneys has greatly simplified the tasks of building and installing stoves and fireplaces, as well as their operation. Now you can buy chimney sections and assemble it with your own hands by connecting the parts in single structure, which is within the power of almost every homeowner. However, there are some features here, well known to professionals, and which you should pay attention to if you decide to assemble the chimney from separate sections on your own. Beforehand, it does not hurt to find and watch a video on how to do the installation of sections and correctly install the chimney from stainless steel.

Unfortunately, it is most likely impossible to make stainless steel chimney sections with your own hands. Their production includes a large number of special machines. Especially complicated installation and welding of seams on sections. It is also very difficult not in production conditions to make high-quality rolling around the circumference. Therefore, with your own hands, you can only qualitatively install the chimney, following the video instructions.

What is a sandwich: chimney assembly

Chimney assembly starts from the bottom. First, after the stove or fireplace, a section with a valve is installed, which allows you to completely block the chimney or create a thrust of a given force. Next, either a single section of one pipe is installed, or a pipe- sandwich - two-circuit chimney. A single pipe can add much more heat, but only if it does not damage the coatings on the ceiling and wall near the pipe, where superheated air will accumulate. To prevent overheating, a sandwich pipe is used. It is required at the intersection of storey floors and roofs. In this case, a pass-through oblique overlay is used - a flange fixed on the roof.

The stainless steel sandwich pipe includes several parts:

Sleeve - the outer part, which is usually made of sheet thickness 0.5 mm. by the roller welding method, when the edges of the folded sheet overlap.
Filling - a layer of thermal insulation, special mineral wool eg PAROC for filling sandwiches.
The inner pipe of the chimney, coaxially located with respect to the sleeve, usually made of sheet with a thickness of 0.8 - 1 mm., by a special welding method with filling the seam with solder, when the edges of the folded sheet lie end-to-end, and the wide part of the pipe does not have a rolling around the circumference;
Plugs installed at the ends of the sleeve and the inner tube, made of compressed packing. They center both pipes and hold the thermal insulation. In order to hide the packing from external influences, on the sleeve with a glass is put on each side.

Proper chimney installation

Installation of a stainless steel chimney is necessary perform with gloves as the edges of the tubes are very sharp and can easily damage the skin. For connection it is recommended to use black oven sealant rated for 1500 degrees Celsius. It gives rigidity and strength to the chimney. If the chimney is not collapsible, the sealant is applied to the edge of the inner part of the connection. If it is planned to disassemble the chimney, the pipes are first connected, and then a sealant is applied to the edges of the joint, which either dissolves or breaks off during disassembly. For additional reliability, at the joints of the sections, you can install clamps, tightening the junction with screws.

Often, when installing chimneys with your own hands, a fundamental mistake is made. Therefore, the following rule must be observed:

Every person who has ever assembled a designer can figure out how to make a chimney in a private house from galvanized or stainless steel. The components of modern metal flue systems are simply plugged into each other. The joints are sealed with heat-resistant mastic or sealant and fastened with clamps.

Installation starts from the bottom, that is, from the heat generator. The connection is carried out "on the condensate" against the movement of flue gases. This will prevent condensate from escaping to the outside and possible icing of the chimney.

Making the pipe pass through the roof

If the chimney passes through the roof, then to protect it from precipitation, an adjustable metal apron is used with an angle of inclination corresponding to the roof (0-15 °, 15-30 °, 30-45 °). If the pipe rises above the roof by more than 1.5 m, then it must be fixed with braces.

Fixing the chimney and passing through the roof with the installation of an apron

To seal the intersection of the chimney with the roof, you can use universal rubber seals. Depending on the slope of the roof, a straight or angular type is used. It is only necessary to take into account the range of their operating temperatures.

The passage of the chimney through the roof with a sealant "Master Flash"

The procedure for working with a universal rubber seal is very simple. It is necessary to cut off the top in accordance with the required diameter, put it on the pipe, grease it well from below with heat-resistant silicone and attach it to the roof with a screwdriver.

How to install a universal rubber seal

With steep roof slopes, there is a risk of damage to the chimneys by snow avalanches. To protect the pipes when snow slides from the roof, special metal dividers can be installed, as shown in the photo of the chimney on the roof of a private house.

Metal dividers to protect against snow sliding

pipe passing through the wall

In order to avoid the difficulties associated with creating an opening in the roof and its subsequent sealing, they usually try to use the chimney outlet through the wall, usually the back one.

This option implies only one intersection - with the outer wall, which is easily insulated with mounting foam, in contrast to the obviously difficult and unreliable junction of a hot chimney to a cold roof. In this case, the pipe is easily attached to the outer part of the wall, does not affect the interior, and there are guaranteed no leaks.

Exit the chimney through the wall of the house

Types of chimneys

Drain shafts through which harmful gases saturated with combustion products are removed are required not only for standard stoves, but also for fireplaces and gas boilers. To date, several types of chimneys are known. These include:

Direct streaming. This variety is considered a popular building, which is most often used for arranging living space. The only drawback of such a chimney is the rapid heat loss. In addition to toxic substances, most of the thermal energy escapes here.

Straight flow pipes with lintels. They retain most of the heat in the combustion process of materials. This design is quite often used in baths. Such a long-burning chimney for a stove requires constant cleaning. Ash quickly settles on the surface of the jumpers, thereby preventing the rapid removal of toxic substances.

Straight flow chimney with labyrinth. This variety has a high heat dissipation. Carbon monoxide gases pass through numerous bridges. They quickly heat the walls of the chimney, thereby contributing to the maximum heating of the room.

Kolpakovy. It is used for the Russian stove. Hot smoke quickly rises up, where it gradually begins to cool. After that, it descends along the arch of the chimney masonry. The only drawback of such a structure is its uneven heating.

Modular. They are made from metal alloy. They are designed for gas-fired heating systems. Metal chimneys for furnaces are able to cope with the acidic compounds of methane combustion products. Brickwork in this case will quickly collapse.

Features of chimneys from different materials

The chimney in a private house can be made of the following materials:

brick;
ceramics;
steel.

It is impossible to give preference to one of them and single out a clear favorite. The correct choice of a suitable material for the construction of a chimney can only be made taking into account a complex set of influencing factors. First of all, it is necessary to analyze the specifics of the operating conditions, the properties of each material and the prices at the time of comparison.

Furnace ceramic chimney

Scope of brick chimney

Brick chimney is usually less expensive than other smoke extraction systems. It is able to withstand high temperatures and even soot fires. Its main disadvantage is the bulkiness and complexity of the design. It is built on a foundation or reinforced concrete floor. When working with stoves, fireplaces and wood-fired boilers, it is very reliable and durable, since the high temperature of the flue gases does not allow the formation of condensate. In other cases, it quickly collapses.

Brick chimney from the fireplace

To build a brick chimney in a house with your own hands, you must have the special skills of a stove-maker and a bricklayer. The trunks should be free of cracks and any irregularities. This is a serious construction, which requires skilled workers.

Restoration of a brick chimney can be done independently. You just need to insert a special flexible corrugation of the appropriate length into the channel from above.

Stainless steel chimney inside brick chimney

Benefits of using ceramic chimneys

A ceramic chimney is also relatively inexpensive. It is characterized by increased strength and the ability to accumulate heat. High refractory properties make it possible to use it in high-temperature systems of solid fuel heat sources. The ceramic pipe is able to withstand heating up to 1200°C when soot ignites. The service life with proper care is equal to the service life of the building.

Ceramic elements of different sizes are connected using special grooves and fastened with fire-resistant adhesive-sealant. Ceramic pipes can be mounted openly and in shafts made of bricks or special hollow blocks, installed inside and outside the house.

Ceramic pipes for the chimney

In new construction, it is very profitable and convenient to use system chimneys made of ceramic pipes laid in special shafts. They are a good solution for all types of combustion equipment.

Characteristics and varieties of steel chimneys

The steel chimney is easily assembled according to the principle of the designer. A wide selection of fittings and fasteners allows you to create almost any configuration and install the chimney in a private house, both during construction and during the operation of the building.

Taking into account the requirements for resistance to corrosion and the action of acids, pipes are not made of ordinary steel, but of galvanized or stainless steel. Stainless steel is noticeably more expensive, but has a longer service life.

Details of a steel chimney

The scope of steel products is limited to systems with a relatively low flue gas temperature, since according to SNiP 41-01-2003 their maximum temperature is 500 ° C. Accordingly, use with solid fuel boilers is undesirable.

Steel smoke exhaust systems are very convenient for installation in already occupied houses, as they are mounted quickly, do not need a foundation, plaster and cladding. At the same time, they are noticeably more expensive than brick and ceramic ones.

Chimneys with two walls are also made of steel, according to the “pipe in pipe” principle. They are called coaxial. These are used for condensing and turbocharged gas boilers with closed combustion chambers. The air necessary for combustion is not taken from the room, but from the street.

Coaxial chimneys remove combustion products through the inner pipe, and supply air for combustion through the outer pipe. Their assembly is carried out similarly to single-walled steel ones. Installing a coaxial type chimney has the lowest cost.

Kit for installation of a coaxial chimney

Installation of an external chimney for the boiler

So, we figured out the features of the materials for the construction of an external chimney. The most optimal system is a stainless steel pipe of the appropriate steel grade and wall thickness (depending on the type of fuel the boiler is running on). We note right away that if the boiler is multi-fuel, then the wall thickness and steel grade are considered for the fuel with the highest combustion temperature.

An important condition for the installation of an external chimney is the absence of horizontal transitions. As a rule, it is in them that the greatest amount of soot and condensate accumulates, which interfere with normal traction.

The distance from the chimney to the roof ridge is also very important, which affects the height of the chimney. The closer the chimney is to the top of the ridge, the greater its height.

Basic requirements for how to make an outdoor chimney:

Installation work must be carried out "from bottom to top", inserting each subsequent section inside the previous one. The depth of the joint must be at least half the outer diameter of the pipe.
When installing an external chimney with your own hands, for sealing, each joint is treated with a special sealant and clamped with a clamp.
The walls along which the chimney is laid must be made of non-combustible materials. Otherwise, a process clearance or gasket made of non-combustible material is required.
At a distance of 1-1.5 meters, the pipe section is attached to the wall of the house with a special bracket. Transitions or other structural elements are attached separately.
It is necessary to exclude contact of sections of the external chimney with electrical wiring or gas lines.
When installing an external chimney on an external wall, it is necessary to provide for an inspection window or a removable part for servicing the system.

Step-by-step procedure for installing a chimney:

Make a hole in the wall. It must be located at least 50 cm from the boiler itself.
Fix the fasteners that will serve as a support for installing the chimney. Fasteners for the pipe are installed in increments of no more than 90 cm.
Connect the lower part of the pipe to the boiler.
Move the top of the chimney to the outside.
Mount the capacitor.
Fix the chimney.

Installation of the chimney of their sandwich panels

In order to navigate how to properly make a chimney of this type, special skills are not needed. It is enough to figure out what such a chimney consists of, and in the future to correctly assemble all the parts. Interestingly, some points of sale offer almost ready-made sandwich panel chimney designs that you can purchase and install yourself without any problems. There is an option to pick up all the components and separately, which an experienced seller can tell you. The installation technology of such a chimney involves the following points:

all components are mounted from the bottom up;
in roofing and attic floors, remember to use a non-combustible insulator (stone wool) to prevent fire;
a steel platform is installed to the ceiling, through the center of which a chimney passes;
tees with condensate drain are used for outdoor sandwich pipe;
components going up the level are inserted inside the lower ones;
if we are talking about an internal chimney, the output to the roof is carried out using a platform-roof, which has a different angle of inclination, which can be selected at different points of sale, depending on the individual characteristics of the roof;
after installation, do not forget about the protective elements: weather vane, deflector, thermo fungus or spark arrester.

During the construction of a chimney from sandwich panels, you need to know that the height and size of the section are important. The thrust will be better if the pipe is higher, but it should not be excessively high either, since there will be a large aerodynamic drag.

The cross section of the chimney from sandwich panels is determined according to the rule - the ratio of the inner diameter to the maximum dimensions of the firebox opening should be 10:1.

Features of the use of sandwich pipes for a bath

Since the bath, as a rule, is built of wood (and if it is made of foam blocks, then it is lined with combustible material), thermal insulation issues are of particular importance. It is forbidden to use single-layer chimneys for a bath - only brick and sandwich chimneys are allowed. All distances from the chimney to combustible objects in accordance with SNiP must be carefully verified and observed. All pyrohazard surfaces must be insulated with vermiculite or asbestos. It is forbidden to put a deflector on the bath chimney because of its strong windage. The distance from the chimney to the wall is at least 25 centimeters!

Caution: under no circumstances should a bath ventilation system be combined with a chimney.

preliminary calculations

In addition to the section, you should also determine the length of the chimney and its correct location.

Length calculation

There are some requirements here, let's get acquainted with them.

According to the same SNiP, the minimum height of the chimney should be 5 meters.
If the roofing in your case is a combustible material, then the chimney should rise above the ridge by another 1-1.5 meters.
If the coating is non-combustible, then this height will be at least 0.5 meters.

Note! If there are extensions to the house, the height of which exceeds its height, then the chimney must be taken out above this particular extension. . Location

Location

If the roof is flat, then the pipe should rise above it by at least 0.5 meters.
If the chimney is less than 1.5 meters from the ridge, then it must rise at least 0.5 meters above the ridge.
If this distance fluctuates between 1.5-3 meters, then the height of the pipe should be equal to the height of the ridge.
Finally, if the chimney is located further than 3 meters, then this height should be equal to the line drawn in the imagination from the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees relative to the horizon.

If all these requirements are taken into account, then the installation of the chimney will be performed correctly.

Requirements for a chimney for a gas boiler

How to install a chimney for a gas boiler, their design features and how to choose the right location. Find out the answers to these questions

What else should you know?

Installation of the structure should start from the heater and gradually rise upwards.
Various utilities (such as electrical wiring, gas pipelines, etc.) must not touch the chimney.
It is impossible for there to be ledges in the structure.
The structure must be protected from the effects of atmospheric precipitation. This will require a deflector or any other device. It is important that such protection does not prevent the free release of flue gases.
The temperature of flue gases moving through the channel should not exceed 50 degrees.
During installation, all the nuances regarding the installation of a sandwich chimney must be taken into account. So, if the roof is made of flammable material, and peat or wood is used as fuel, then spark catchers should be installed, which are usually made from a metal mesh with mesh sizes of 0.5x0.5 centimeters.
Pipe sections that are sloped should not be rough. In addition, their cross-sectional area must at least correspond to the vertical one.

Connection options

There are several ways to connect such chimneys:

flanged;
by condensate;
bayonet;
by smoke;
and finally cold.

Note! The design is assembled according to the smoke to completely eliminate the penetration of carbon monoxide into the room. But for condensate, so that condensed moisture flows freely along the walls due to the temperature difference.

If the installation of the sandwich chimney with your own hands was done in the first way, then the smoky gases will not encounter any obstacles and, thanks to the draft, will be quickly taken out into the street. But if the joints at the same time are sealed poorly, then condensate can penetrate into the structure, which will have a very bad effect on the basalt insulation. In the second case, the inner tube is installed in the socket, so moisture can in no way penetrate inside. But if there is at least a small gap, then the smoke can enter the room. So which option to choose? Condensed moisture harms the insulation, and smoke gases harm human health. The way out is obvious: regardless of the method chosen, all joints and cracks should be carefully sealed.

Note! It is advisable to install the internal pipes of the structure along the condensate so that it does not get into the joints and does not leak.

We also note that even with two layers, such chimneys require good insulation of those sections that are the most fire-resistant - we are talking about the roof, beams and floors. Moreover, the sandwich should not be used to connect directly to the heater.

So, you are already familiar with the technology. Now it remains only to purchase all the necessary materials (necessarily high-quality, certified) and get to work!

Mounting sequence

Installation of an internal chimney begins with drawing up a diagram and calculating the required number of pipe segments. To assemble correctly, the device is performed in the following order:

Scheme of the chimney outlet through the corrugated roof

The surface of the walls and floor behind the heater and the chimney is protected from heat with fire-resistant material, for example, asbestos sheets.
The first segment of the pipe is connected to the branch pipe of the heat generating device or furnace. If there are gaps at the junction, use an adapter or seal. To seal the joint, use a fire-resistant sealant and a metal clamp.
Each subsequent segment of a single-circuit pipe is put on the lower one so as not to impede the passage of smoke. The connection of sandwich pipes is performed differently - the elements of the internal circuit are inserted into the underlying module, in the external one, vice versa.
It is recommended to observe an overlap between pipes equal to a quarter of the radius. To make it more convenient to process with sealant and tighten the joints with clamps, you should not place them in the places of passage of interfloor ceilings and roofs.
If you want to turn the pipe, the modules are connected using a swivel elbow with an angle of 45 or 90 degrees.
In order to pass the chimney through the ceiling and the roof, it is necessary to make a hole in them and install a passage box or branch pipe into which refractory insulation is poured.

After the pipe is brought to the roof, it is protected by an elastic seal in the form of a funnel, which reliably protects against water penetration.

Installation of a silicone sealant for waterproofing the connection between the corrugated board and the pipe

The pipe is completed to the calculated height and a protective umbrella is put on top to prevent debris, branches and birds from entering the chimney.
The pipe outlet is finished with a decorative apron that matches the color of the roofing material.

After the installation is completed, it is necessary to start the heating system, check the draft and the tightness of the connections - even a small slight smoke indicates serious problems, the solution of which is unsafe to postpone.

Installing a chimney in a house is a responsible event, the quality of which depends on the comfort and safety of the heating system, so follow the recommendations of the manufacturers, the installation technology.

For solid fuel boiler brick chimney

Brick chimney, usually is cheaper than modern chimney systems. The traditional ceramic brick chimney can easily withstand the high flue gas temperatures. The pipe withstands even ignition of soot accumulations in the chimney.

A brick chimney for a boiler in a private house is a rather heavy structure. The chimney is located on the foundation or solid reinforced concrete floor. The construction of such a chimney requires certain skills, it is better to entrust the laying of a sealed and durable chimney to a qualified stove-setter.

Channels and chimneys and ventilation are often placed in a brick chimney

The laying of the chimney is carried out from high-quality solid ceramic bricks of grade not lower than M125 on a conventional masonry mortar. The upper section of the pipe, above the roof, can be laid out of facing or clinker bricks. The wall thickness of the chimney must be at least 120 mm(half a brick).

Brick chimney. Next to the chimney, in one vertical block, ventilation ducts are usually placed. Templates facilitate the laying of even channels with smooth walls.

The size of the chimney and ventilation channels is chosen as a multiple of the size of the brick, taking into account the thickness of the vertical joints. For example, channel section can be 140x140 mm(1/2x1/2 bricks) or 140x200 mm(1/2x3/4 bricks), or 140x270 mm(1/2 x 1 brick). In practice, a smoke channel is often made with a size of 20 x 20 cm(3/4x3/4 bricks). In such a channel, if necessary, it is easy to pick up and insert a round steel or ceramic insert of the appropriate diameter.

The flue gases in the chimney duct must not cool too much. Therefore, they try to build the chimney into the masonry of the inner wall of the house or attach it to the wall. Chimney sections that pass through an unheated room (attic) or outside the house insulated with mineral wool.

Brick the chimney reliably and for a long time serves only at a high temperature of the flue gases, which prevents the formation of condensate in the pipe. As a rule, this condition is met when the chimney is operated with a conventional one.

When working with modern gas or liquid fuel boilers, as well as with solid fuel pyrolysis boilers, pellet and others, operating for a long time in low-intensity slow burning mode, the brick chimney collapses rather quickly.

Modern boilers are designed so that the exhaust gases have a fairly low temperature. As a result, the water vapor contained in the flue gases condenses in the chimney. The walls of the pipe are constantly moistened. In addition, when combined with other combustion products, water forms aggressive chemical compounds on the inner surface of the pipe.

In particular, the exhaust gases of boilers contain sulfur, which, interacting with water, forms sulfuric acid in the chimney, corroding its walls. External signs of destruction - dark wet spots on the outer surface of a brick pipe.

The operating mode of the solid fuel pyrolysis boiler also contributes to the formation of aggressive condensate in the chimney, which quickly destroys the brick chimney.

The rough walls of the chimney contribute to the accumulation of soot solid particles on them. The roughness of the walls and the rectangular shape of the chimney channel make it difficult to clean the chimney from deposits.

For connection to a brick chimney of gas and other boilers with a low flue gas temperature, it is necessary to place an insert in the brick channel - a pipe of a steel or ceramic chimney.

How to install stainless steel or cast iron chimneys

The cheapest and easiest way to install a chimney is to install a metal pipe. The entire installation is divided into several successive stages:

First you prepare the channel for the chimney.
Then you actually install the chimney.
And at the final stage, you mount insulation around the pipe.

The channel under the chimney metal pipe should be approximately one and a half times its diameter. In this case, you will have space for isolation.

stainless steel chimney installation

Actually, the metal chimney consists of the following components: a metal pipe, adapters for mounting tunics, a cap and a condenser. In a number of designs, a gate is installed with a chimney - a unit that increases draft in the system.

Chimney installation steps

At the initial stage of installing the chimney, you need to adjust the pipes in length. Further, the resulting structure is placed in a pre-prepared channel. After that, a capacitor and the heater itself (stove or boiler) are connected to the system. At the final stage, the head is installed.

In order to rigidly fix the pipe, it must be fixed to the wall at least every one and a half meters.

When installing steel and cast iron pipes, it is necessary to provide high-quality thermal insulation of the chimney. Only in this case will you be able to avoid the fire of the ceilings and structures adjacent to them due to a suddenly leaky pipe. To isolate a metal chimney, it is best to use the classic method - refractory clay. But in extreme cases, you can use special refractory foam.

Also, with the help of clay, it is possible to decorate the joints of the chimney from a metal pipe with ceilings and a roof.

joint of a metal chimney with a ceiling

If you use a metal pipe, then it must be fixed to the ceiling and walls with fasteners every half a meter. This is due to the large weight of such chimney pipes. In addition, the mounting holes are made wider - by about two pipe diameters.

A cast iron pipe will last longer as a chimney, but its installation is fraught with certain difficulties. So you can cut such a pipe only with the help of a grinder.

Proper installation of a sandwich chimney with your own hands

Sandwich chimneys made of several materials are replacing conventional metal pipes. The multi-layer design allows you to qualitatively isolate the floors from heating by the combustion products of the furnace. When installing such a chimney, additional insulation is not required, as a result of which the mounting holes can be made almost equal to the diameter of the pipe.

When installing metal pipes, they fit into each other like nesting dolls and no additional fixation is required to connect the knees of the work. In sandwich chimneys, the pipe elbows must be connected to each other using a special construction adhesive. In addition to fixing the knees, construction adhesive also prevents smoke from entering the premises.

Sandwich pipes are very sensitive to the formation of condensate from atmospheric moisture, therefore they are not recommended for use in the installation of external chimneys. Inside the building, such a pipe can last up to 70 years.

Installation of an external chimney

The most optimal material for the manufacture of an external stove chimney will be a pipe made of stainless steel. It weighs a little and is well processed by the simplest tools.

outdoor chimney installation

In order to mount an external chimney from a stainless pipe, carry out the following work:

Punch a hole in the pipe adjacent to the boiler. It should be located no lower than half a meter from the top of the boiler.
Place fasteners on the outer wall a meter apart.
Connect the chimney inlet to the heater.
Move the bent pipe elbow out of the room.
Mount the capacitor.
Fix the pipe to the wall.
Install the cap and chimney guard.

Design features of a sandwich chimney

Thanks to the British, all structures that consist of more than three layers are called "sandwiches". And, of course, there is a chimney with a similar name, where there is a thermal insulation layer between the two circuits (mainly from basalt-based materials).

Thanks to this, combustion products are removed from the combustion chamber as efficiently as possible, since:

internal surfaces perfectly tolerate the effects of condensing moisture and high temperature;
thermal insulation layer prevents overheating of the external circuit;
excellent traction is achieved;
design features do not allow moisture to get on the thermal insulator.

The inside of the chimney is made of stainless steel, which is known to be resistant to rust. As for the external, it is often made from galvanized steel, which is less durable, but cheaper. Therefore, you will have to choose between quality (read: stainless steel) and economy (galvanization). And if the inner pipes are primarily required to endure critical temperatures well, then the outer ones must be just strong so that the shape of the entire structure does not change.

In addition to the chimney itself, during installation you will need:

special "adapter" for passing through the roof;
brackets for fixing pipes;
platform for unloading - it will allow you to evenly distribute the weight and relieve the base from the load;
revision with a window for cleaning;
clamps for fastening structural elements;
adapters;
knee 90 or 45 degrees (in order to change the direction of the chimney);
adapters.

Note! The upper part of the pipe can be decorated with a cone or other elements - a fungus, a spark extinguisher, a wobbler, a weather vane, and so on. . Sandwich chimney provides excellent thermal insulation, so it is quite possible to install it even outside the house

But it will function much better if you install it in the house, as close as possible to the heat source (this minimizes heat loss).

Sandwich chimney provides excellent thermal insulation, so it can be installed even outside the house. But it will function much better if you install it in the house, as close as possible to the heat source (this minimizes heat loss).

Read more about how to make a chimney for a solid fuel boiler

Previously, we have already considered the principles of installing such a chimney, read more

Varieties of chimney pipes

The chimney pipe serves to transfer smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere, it starts from the inlet pipe of the heater in the house and ends above the roof ridge with a protective umbrella. In private construction, the following types are mainly used:

from brick. The brick chimney has been used since the time when people started building fireplaces and stoves. The difference between the modern one is the use of special furnace, fire-resistant bricks. Due to its heat storage properties, this material keeps the heat inside the pipe, preventing overheating of the house decoration in contact with its walls. The complex construction of a brick pipe, a significant mass, force homeowners to abandon this option. Only experienced furnace masters can correctly install this type of chimney, which increases costs due to the wages of the master.

metal. The sale of metal chimneys has facilitated the creation of a chimney system in a private house. Additional pipes made of alloyed steel with a thickness of 1 mm or more are lighter and cheaper than analogues made of bricks. The device of such a chimney consists of separate modules. Straight modules are used for laying vertical and horizontal sections, and bends and tees for rotary ones. Installing a chimney made of galvanized steel has one drawback, which is that its material has better thermal conductivity compared to brick pipes, so it needs additional insulation. However, self-installation of this type of chimney is much easier to do everything right, just follow the instructions.

Internal type metal chimney

from ceramics. The ceramic chimney device combines the strengths of brick and metal chimneys. It has a modular design and has low thermal conductivity. The price for such products is higher than for a metal pipe, but significantly lower than the cost of a brick one. It is problematic to make a ceramic chimney curved, it is better suited for a vertical system configuration.

Ceramic chimney pipe

The material from which the chimney is made can be correctly selected based on three factors: compliance with the material of the heater, low thermal conductivity and tightness of the joints.

Specifications of sandwich pipe

Material. As a heat-insulating material, basalt fiber (mineral wool) is mainly used. This type of insulation is resistant to high temperatures and chemicals. Mineral wool has excellent heat-insulating/sound-insulating properties and is laid with a thickness of 30-60 mm. Due to their fireproof properties, multilayer pipes can be used in houses built from any material. For the inner casing, more expensive alloys with a high degree of heat resistance are used.

The inner layer of the sandwich pipe is mainly produced by galvanized steel, while the outer layer can be made of copper, brass, stainless steel, etc. The scope of the pipe and the price depend on the content of alloying materials, various alloys and the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

Sandwich pipes galvanized and stainless steel

Connection type. Elements of sandwich pipes are connected in two ways: corrugated edges and sockets. The advantage of a corrugated connection is ease of installation, but a large amount of sealant is needed to ensure tightness, and this increases the cost of the chimney. With a socket connection, a high degree of tightness is achieved due to the presence of a wider chamfer on one side of the pipe. The advantage is a high degree of tightness, so that the design can be used for gas boilers. But the downside is the complexity of installation and the need for a very precise fit of all parts.

Connection types of sandwich pipes

Assembly of the structure

The external chimney (its main part) is installed outside the building, which is connected by a horizontal pipe through the wall of the building with a thermal unit. After installing the heating boiler, it must be connected to the chimney pipe, which will be located outside the building. It is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. However, it is necessary to follow some rules for the withdrawal of the chimney through the wall.

Mounting outside

Work performance rules

The installation of the chimney is carried out in all cases from the heating boiler, or rather, from the chimney up. The gas exhaust pipe is always put on the previous one, this avoids the penetration of moisture into the insulation.

A heat-resistant sealant is used for the tightness of the structure, not less than 1000*С.
Clamps should be used on waste connections, tees and pipes.
At an interval of two meters, the external chimney must be rigidly attached to the wall with special brackets. They should also be used when fastening tees.
Horizontal sections of the chimney pipe are not allowed to exceed one meter.
Avoid contact of gas pipes with chimney ducts and electrical wiring.
When passing a pipe through a combustible structure, use special fire-fighting nozzles.
Install a removable cleaning door (this must be done twice a season) of the structure, at the base of the chimney.

Installation

When everything is known about the design and the material is ready, you can proceed to the main work.

We connect the chimney to the nozzle of the heating boiler using an elbow, pipe or tee (depending on the design).
We join the pipe with the chimney with the necessary transition node.
We process the joints with sealant and install clamps.
We carry out the passage through the wall using a special passage pipe (docking is prohibited at the place where the wall passes).

Attention: All sections of the chimney pipe should be pushed tightly, without gaps, one into the other, the insertion distance should be at least 0.5 of the pipe section (planting depth). .

Chimney outlet in the wall

We are preparing the installation of the vertical part of the structure. At the end of a horizontal pipe led through the wall, we attach a tee with fasteners for a vertical pipe. If we use a knee, conditions should be created for cleaning the horizontal gap of the connection. When using a tee, the lower outlet is blocked by a plug, which is removed or we use a tee with revision. How and to what to attach the chimney depends on its location. The pipe is attached to the wall with wall brackets every 2 meters. If the main pipe is heavy, the elbow must be supported. It often happens that it is impossible to fasten to the wall along the entire length of the structure; in this case, stretch marks are used.
We install a collar with ears, attach clamps to the ears and we already attach stretch marks of the required length to them. In this case, the cable for stretch marks must be at least 3 mm in diameter.
In places of fastening of stretch marks, we install eye-studs or anchors (we choose based on the surface of the fastening).

Assembling the outer pipe

The next step is to lift and fasten the entire structure of the vertical pipe. It is possible to install in parts, but this is unsafe work at height, and sometimes even impossible. As a rule, the pipe is assembled on the ground, fasten all parts with clamps, prepare fasteners for stretch marks and brackets.

To facilitate this process, we use a hinge.
We select the desired elbow for connection and fasten the hinge to the edge of the outer pipe, weld it.
We raise the finished end of the pipe at the level of the junction and also attach the hinge to the end of the elbow.
We lift the entire structure with the help of attached cables and horns. This should be done in good weather, it is unacceptable to perform in gusty winds.
We carry out fastening in accessible places.
For stability, we fix slightly stretch marks.
We unscrew the nuts that fastened the hinge. We cut off the bolts themselves with a grinder and knock out the endings.
We knock out the hinge and make fasteners of the remaining bolts at the junction.
We produce full tension stretch marks. We adjust the tension with lanyard screws.

Installation has come to an end. We make fasteners of the junction and sealing of the joint. After we carry out the insulation of the vertical pipe, we make insulation (this way we will avoid the appearance of condensate). Now for the heating of the house you can be calm.

Chimney in the bath

For a bath, the best option is a metal chimney. The sauna stove rarely reaches extremely high temperatures, and the atmosphere in the sauna is maintained only by good insulation of the room. But here it is better to take stainless steel, because the humidity in the building will be high, which will significantly affect the durability of the metal.

The presented options show the available chimney outlets from the bathhouse. It is worth considering that they all have thermal insulation in the outer area. This is necessary to reduce heat loss and less damage to the metal.

The design of the chimney for a sauna stove is not so complicated, here it is necessary to take into account only an important nuance - condensate. It will constantly accumulate due to high temperatures and humidity. This is undesirable, because it will reduce the duration of the chimney.

Single-circuit pipe connecting the furnace and chimney.
Adapter.
Double pipe.
Condensate drain.
Umbrella.

Initially, it is necessary to assemble these components. It is carried out by means of clamps and adapters that allow you to connect the various components of the chimney. You will also need a 45-degree bend, which allows you to bring the pipe to the side. It is recommended to bring it out not through the roof, but through the wall, which will protect the structure from condensation.

Advice ! Assembly can be carried out both in advance and during the installation of components on the building.

The material from which the pipes are made

For different heating devices and fuels, a different type of steel is selected. It must be highly alloyed and stainless, suitable for the manufacture of chemically resistant and fireproof chimneys.

In the device of the chimney, one of the main characteristics is the steel grade as a criterion for long-term service and resistance to external negativity

During the combustion of various substances, chemically active substances can accumulate in the chimney: sulfuric acid, sulfur, hydrochloric acid. In addition, the temperature during combustion of different fuels can vary greatly.

When heated with wood or gas, it does not rise above 450 ° C, when burning coal, it can reach 700 ° C. Metals react differently to these indicators. Therefore, when choosing a system for removing smoke, they pay attention to the main characteristic - the quality and property of steel.

Option #1: Alloyed Stainless Steel

The main grades of steel alloys that are used for the production of sandwich chimneys:

Titanium stabilized stainless steel (AISI 321). Used for wood burning equipment. Not resistant to corrosion in sulfur containing environments. Permissible operating temperature - 600-800°C.
Molybdenum stabilized stainless steel (AISI 316). The installation of a sandwich chimney from this steel grade is carried out for heating installations that run on wood, gas, diesel fuel. The metal is acid-resistant, characterized by increased resistance to corrosion, aggressive environments of various nature.
Heat resistant steel (AISI 304). The inclusion of chromium and nickel in the composition makes the steel insensitive to elevated temperatures and acidic environments. It is used for the production of chimneys with a high exhaust gas temperature - about 1000 °C. At a temperature of 600-800 °C, it is prone to loss of viscosity and plasticity, which leads to embrittlement.
The widely used grades AISI 409 and 430 have poor resistance to high temperatures and acids. Most of the Chinese products and some of the domestic ones are made from steel of these grades.

It is visually impossible to check the steel grade. When buying, you can check the markings on the product itself or try to approximately determine the quality with a magnet. A low quality material will attract a magnet, alloyed metal will not.

When choosing pipes for a chimney, take an interest in their main characteristics. If there is any doubt about the honesty of the seller, take a magnet with you - it will be attracted to steel products with insufficient proportions of alloying additives

Option #2: Black metal for chimneys

By itself, ferrous metal wears out quickly - it oxidizes and burns out. Therefore, special enamel is used to protect it. This improves resistance to acidic conditions. Enamel can serve for a long time at a temperature not exceeding 400 °C and withstand a short-term increase to 750 °C.

A variety of shades of enameled pipes makes them quite popular.

Enamelled pipes are used to divert combustion products from heating columns, stoves, heating boilers, fireplaces. Unlike steel, they can be painted in different colors. This allows you to select the desired shades for the interior or facade of the house.

Option number 3: Combined sandwich chimneys

To reduce the cost of production, enterprises are trying to use cheaper materials. If the inner tube is made of expensive stainless steel, and the outer tube is made of galvanized or enameled metal, then this has little effect on the service life of the product.

It’s worse if it’s the other way around: stainless steel is used on the outside, and cheap low-quality material is hidden inside. Such a pipe, with intensive use, can last a year and fail, which will entail new costs for materials and installation.

Inner insulation layer

Between the two pipes of the sandwich chimney there is a layer of insulating material that keeps the heat inside and thus maintains good draft. Basalt or ceramic wool is used as insulation - fibrous materials with the highest fire resistance class.

Basalt wool can withstand temperatures up to 600 °C, ceramic - up to 1000 °C. Both materials have good thermal insulation properties. Apply a layer of insulation 25-50 mm. For a chimney that is mounted outside, the larger it is, the better.

Why trim the pipe

There are at least 3 reasons why it is necessary to finish the chimneys on the roof:

High temperatures, on the one hand, and cold air, on the other, cause condensate to settle on the inner surface of the pipe. But this is not just water, the condensate is an aggressive acidic cocktail that gradually corrodes the pipe. External insulation shifts the dew point inside the insulation and eliminates the appearance of condensate;

Clinker brick does not require additional finishing.

222222 If a solid clinker brick or stainless steel pipe was used for the construction of the chimney, then these materials are not afraid of weather troubles. While ordinary brick without external protection will begin to crumble in a couple of years, steel will rust and concrete will crack;
In addition to the strength of the chimney, there is also such an important point as the rain protection of the roof itself. If the sealing of the pipe connection sector with the roof was poorly done, then in a year the insulation will become unusable, and the wooden truss system will begin to deteriorate.

Do not wait for the moment when the complete destruction of the chimney comes.

What to rely on when developing a project

Appearance and original design are of course important, but before you finish the pipe in the house, you should think about safety. About the dire consequences, I think you can guess for yourself

So, in order not to make mistakes and not burn down the house, for a start it will not be superfluous to familiarize yourself with the standards. In this case should be guided by SNiP 41-01-2003, it is this instruction that regulates the installation and operation of heating, ventilation and air conditioning. The document is voluminous, so I wrote out the main theses for you.

Norms SNiP 41-01-2003.

If combustible heat-insulating and finishing materials for the chimney are selected, then the temperature of their spontaneous ignition must be at least 20 ° C higher than the maximum possible temperature of the pipe. The same rule applies to all structures and objects surrounding the chimney within a radius of half a meter;
Able to corrode metal products must have an appropriate coating that protects the surface from corrosion;
The walls of brick chimneys made of heat-resistant bricks should not be thinner than 120 mm. If we are talking about heat-resistant concrete, then the wall thickness of such pipes starts from 60 mm;
The use of metal and asbestos-cement structures for the arrangement of the chimney is allowed only if there is a factory quality certificate that allows the operation of products at high temperatures;

Finishing of asbestos-cement chimneys.

The use of asbestos-cement and thin-walled stainless pipes in coal or coke ovens is strictly prohibited. These materials are not able to withstand the temperature of gases in such a chimney.

The mouth of the chimney (the highest point on the roof) must be equipped with an umbrella, deflector or other protective structure that prevents debris and precipitation from entering the chimney. At the same time, protective structures should not interfere with the exit of flue gases;
The distance from brick and heat-insulated chimneys to roof rafters and other wooden structures should not be less than 130 mm. If a heat-resistant ceramic pipe without thermal insulation is installed, then the safety distance increases to 250 mm.

Baffle made of galvanized sheet.

When choosing both the chimney itself and the finish for the surface of the chimney inside or outside, you should consider the type of fuel that your boiler or stove will run on. The flue gas temperature directly depends on this.

Types of fuel for a solid fuel boiler.

Pros and cons of using a sandwich chimney

Disadvantages of chimneys assembled from sandwich pipes:

seal failure after a certain number of heating and cooling cycles;
compared with a brick structure, a sandwich chimney has a higher cost;
the service life is about 15 years, while traditional chimneys made of refractory bricks last 10 years more.

Such a short service life is mainly due to the use of low-quality materials in production.

Choosing products from a trusted brand is the first thing you can do for a long and successful operation of the chimney.

Image Gallery
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Chimneys assembled from sandwich elements do not need thermal insulation. Any length of the canal section can be located outside the building
Smoke ducts assembled from sandwich elements work with any type of heating units, can be installed in rooms that are not equipped to accommodate such equipment
Sandwich chimney is assembled from elements that are a pipe in a pipe, the space between which is filled with insulation
The assembly and installation of the pipe begin with a horizontal section, start from the exit point of the shaped pipe from the house
Sections of the intersection of the sandwich wall and the roofing system with a chimney are insulated with overlays made of non-combustible materials
At the point where the chimney crosses the roof system or wall, only a solid element can be located. It is impossible for the passage to have a place for joining elements
In order to prevent precipitation from seeping through the roof, a sealed passage assembly is built around the chimney

Argument in favor of sandwich systems

Compatibility with heating units

Design features of the pipe

Starting section of pipe assembly

Details of insulation of chimney passages

Features of the arrangement of penetrations

The device of the passage node through the roof

Installing an umbrella at the mouth of the chimney

The advantages of sandwich chimneys are as follows:

Insulated walls. Thanks to thermal insulation, even the chimney placed outside does not lose draft. Multilayer walls prevent the quick cooling of the combustion products, which are quickly removed through the chimney, and this prevents condensate and soot from actively forming.
Easy installation. Having studied the principles of building chimneys, even a beginner can assemble them.
Variety of options. To assemble the structure, straight and corner modules are produced. The chimney can be brought up or into the wall, it can go around the truss system, various architectural elements.
Minimum soot deposits. Due to the smooth surface of the pipes, ash and soot are released into the atmosphere faster and accumulate more slowly.

In addition, the sandwich system has a relatively low weight, which means that it is easier to create a support for it and does not require the construction of a special foundation, as for a brick chimney. It can be attached to ceilings and walls, installed directly on heating equipment. Compared to single-walled chimneys, sandwich chimneys almost do not form condensate and are fireproof.

Even the most complex design can be assembled from standard elements of a chimney sandwich

Three options for self-arrangement of the chimney outside

There are 3 options where a person without special training can do everything with his own hands. The first option concerns brick pipes, which do not need lining, but you need to seal the joint with the roof. After that, there is a frame version and a version with ready-made factory solutions.

Option number 1: we equip a brick pipe

The waterproofing of the pipe on the roof must be carried out before laying the roofing material. If the roof is already lying, then it will have to be partially disassembled. The entire perimeter is removed by 50-70 cm around, plus you need to remove the lower part of the roof from the pipe to the edge of the slope.

The scheme of sealing the perimeter of a brick pipe on a pitched roof.

Of the materials, we need a wall-mounted metal profile. It can be bent from galvanized steel with your own hands or bought ready-made. The profile consists of 4 parts, which are superimposed on each other during installation.

It is definitely better to buy an outer apron for a pipe, and it is advisable to buy it together with roofing material, it is easier to choose a color.

The so-called tie is a sheet of roofing iron with sides bent on the sides. It is laid from the bottom of the pipe to the edge of the slope and is brought under the lower section of the wall profile.

In order to hermetically connect a brick pipe with a wall profile, we need to cut a groove with a grinder on the pipe with a depth of about 20–30 mm. The bent edge of the profile is inserted into this strobe.

Under the wall profile on the pipe, a strobe is cut along the entire perimeter.

Next, we insert the bent edge of the profile into the strobe and fill the strobe with sealant. After that, we fix all 4 parts of the profile and a tie wound from below with self-tapping screws with press washers. Roofing material is laid on top of this entire structure.

Scheme of arrangement of the upper apron for the chimney.

The upper apron is attached to the pipe with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter. On the pipe, it must go at least 100 mm. The lower part of the apron is often made of soft bituminous materials. It is pressed around the corrugated roof and glued to this roof with mastic or special glue.

The apron must be glued to the roof.

The scheme works something like this: the top apron removes the main amount of moisture from the pipe, but if this barrier did not cope with its task and moisture got under the roof, then the wall profile will collect it and the water will drain down the tie from the roof.

Scheme of double hydroprotection of the roof in the sector adjacent to the chimney.

Option number 2: mounting the frame

This method is well suited for insulating and lining the chimney with corrugated board, siding and other similar materials. To begin with, the base is sheathed with a metal profile, later we will mount the corrugated board on it. The frame is best made from a wall profile for drywall, it is wider than the ceiling.

The frame made of metal profile is more durable.

It is not difficult to work with a metal profile, but if you are not confident in your abilities, then you can build a frame from wooden bars. True, the wooden frame will need to be well impregnated with flame retardants, antiseptics and a water-repellent composition. Between the slats of the frame, to insulate the pipe, slabs of dense mineral wool are laid.

Chimneys are insulated only with dense mineral wool slabs.

Decking or any other sheet material is screwed to the frame rails with self-tapping screws with press washers. The whole structure is crowned with an umbrella to protect against rain.

Scheme of insulated and cladding pipes in section.

Option number 3: ready-made solutions

There are no problems with round pipes now. Special flexible aprons are produced for them. From experience, you can mount such an apron in a maximum of a couple of hours. Photo instructions for installing such an apron are given below.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a flexible junction for a round pipe.

Choose the pipe diameter you need and cut a hole in the soft polymer cone;
Pull the cone onto the pipe, the connection should be tight;
Compress the lower soft metal ring in the shape of the roof;
Thickly lubricate the perimeter under the ring with sealants;
Screw the ring to the roofing material with self-tapping screws with press washers.

Design features

Despite the huge choice of materials for the construction of chimneys, double-circuit steel pipes, popularly referred to as "sandwich", are the most widely used today.

The chimney type "sandwich" is a two-layer structure. Between two metal pipes of different diameters, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid, which simultaneously serves as an insulator and a heater.

Video: Sandwich pipe chimney

Compared to single-circuit pipes, which are made from steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm, the double-circuit design is characterized by increased fire safety and better technical characteristics. For installation of a chimney outside the building, single-circuit pipes are not recommended. Indeed, due to just one layer, they are simply not able to retain heat in the cold season. Due to a sharp temperature drop in such a chimney, condensate forms, which reduces draft and creates plugs in the pipe.

The device of a double-circuit sandwich pipe

Therefore, for installing a chimney through a wall, the best option would be to buy a sandwich pipe. The popularity of such a double-circuit chimney is due to the low price compared to a brick chimney, attractive appearance, excellent technical characteristics, fire safety and long-term operation.

In addition, the installation of a chimney from this material can be done by hand. And although there are some nuances and subtleties here, even a beginner can cope with the task if you strictly follow our detailed instructions.

What should be the height of the chimney

A necessary condition for the stable and reliable operation of almost all heat sources is the presence of good traction. It arises due to the difference between the temperatures of the exhaust gases and the outside air. With an increase in this difference, traction increases. It directly depends on the height, characteristics and correctness of the chimney device.

The action of the wind can enhance the natural draft in the pipe, and may interfere. Under favorable conditions, horizontal wind flows, colliding with the chimney, change their direction and move from bottom to top, as a result, a vacuum is created at the outlet, and combustion products are literally sucked out of the chimney. In the presence of other obstacles, the wind can be directed from top to bottom and create a reverse movement of gases - reverse thrust, which leads to smoke in the room.

Scheme for determining the height of the chimney

Any high structure located nearby, including part of the pitched roof, can interfere with the normal movement of the wind. Therefore, the height of the chimney is determined taking into account the distance to the ridge according to the standard scheme.

In this case, the total height of the pipe from the heat generator must be at least 5 m, for a gas boiler - at least 3 m.

Structural elements and their features

A variety of manufactured products allows you to perform complex tasks for the construction of sandwich chimneys.

Chimney manufacturers have developed more than twenty different elements to facilitate installation

The main structural elements of the chimney channel are:

Straight sections of pipe. Sections with a diameter of 80-600 mm, up to 1 m long. The ideal design of the chimney is straight, but in practice this is difficult to achieve.
Elbows and tees. They are used if it is necessary to bring the chimney through the wall, outside the building, or bypass the structural elements of the house - beams, rafters. Sometimes, for turns (especially straight lines, 90 °), revision tees are used - they allow you to clean the chimney in hard-to-reach places. They are installed and strengthened with brackets so that they do not bear the weight of the structure above.
Pass pipe. Isolates the pipe from interfloor partitions, serves as a mount for the chimney.
Roof cutting. It is a metal cone that is attached to the roof at a certain angle. It helps to pass the pipe through the roof without violating its tightness and increasing fire safety. Instead, a special silicone seal can be used, which serves as a better protection against leakage.

In addition to the above elements, there are still a lot of devices for installing a chimney from sandwich pipes, as well as its further operation.

The chimney is fixed with brackets every two meters. Fasteners for fixing the clamps on the wall are selected in accordance with the material from which it is composed

Second phase. Chimney outlet

This procedure can be performed in one of two ways:

through the wall;
through the roof.

Let's take a closer look at each of the options.

Option number 1: output through the wall

In this case, the entire structure will have to be disassembled and fixed with the so-called landing brackets. After that, an external bracket is assembled, a pair of corners is attached to it, forming “runners” (so the tee can be freely moved during installation, while nothing will get stuck).

The wall itself is closed with a sheet of plywood 1 centimeter thick, and asbestos is attached on top with screws. Next, a sheet of galvanized steel with dimensions of 12x20 centimeters is installed. A square-shaped hole is made in this sheet for the outlet of the pipe, after which it is also fastened with screws. At the end, the bracket is covered with a special anti-corrosion varnish. An adapter is inserted into the hole, a hole is made in it, and then a pipe is put on it.

Also in the construction of chimneys there is such a thing as a concession. This is the space that must be left between the wall surface and the pipe.

Table. Basic requirements for a concession (it is also called a retreat)

Note! The first structural element must be calculated in such a way that the first sandwich pipe is attached to the second one above the level of cutting the ceiling. This is explained quite simply: the most fire-resistant elements need visual control

Option number 2: output through the roof

Such a do-it-yourself sandwich chimney installation is also possible. In this case, a sheet of steel is taken and applied to the exit hole from the inside. The chimney is removed and only then the sheet is fixed to the roof. If necessary, it is additionally wound up under the edge.

Note! If the roof is flat, then the pipe, as noted above, should be at least 1 meter higher than it. And if the height exceeds 120 centimeters, then extensions with clamps are additionally placed.

If the roof is made of combustible material, then it is additionally protected from ignition. For this purpose, the chimney is equipped with a spark arrestor.

First of all, an adapter is put on the pipe of the boiler or furnace, which is pre-coated with a heat-resistant sealant (withstanding temperatures from 1000 to 1500 degrees) and clamped with a metal clamp.

If the chimney exits vertically (for example, in a sauna stove), then another single-walled pipe is required, on which a tank for heating water or a mesh heater can be placed. It is impossible to install a sandwich right away, since the thermal insulation layer from severe overheating will very soon sinter to the state of a stone, cease to perform its function, and this section of the chimney will fail.

If the chimney is installed on a heating boiler with an outlet to the street, then after the adapter pipe a horizontal section is mounted, which should go outside. The length of this section, as already mentioned, is no more than a meter, and it needs to be given a slight slope outward. The remaining open layer of thermal insulator must be closed with a special plug.

To pass through the wall, a hole is punched in it so that there is a gap between the pipe and the wall material. If the wall is made of hot material, then the gap should be at least 200 mm. Usually a square opening of 400 × 400 mm is made. From the inside, its walls are sheathed with minerite (basalt cardboard). Then a factory or home-made pass-through block is inserted.

A sandwich pipe is passed through it and connected to the boiler. The space of the passage block is densely filled with basalt mineral wool. Outside, this node is closed with a metal plate or a decorative rosette included in the kit. The remaining gaps can be filled with sealant.

Ready-made pass-through unit operating on the principle of "sandwich in a sandwich"

Some manufacturers provide special walk-through blocks with a thermal insulation layer already filled. The choice of a particular model will depend on the material and thickness of the wall or ceiling.

If the walls are made of non-combustible material, then it is possible to place a sleeve from an asbestos-cement pipe for the passage, and fix the sandwich element inserted into it in the center with mineral wool stuffing, and also cover it on both sides with decorative metal plates.

At the exit to support brackets are installed on the outer side of the wall, on which the plate rests. It will serve as the main support for the vertical part of the chimney. Structurally, it can immediately include an inspection unit with a condensate outlet cock.
After the pipe is brought out, the installation of the vertical part begins. And here you need to understand the intricacies of installing pipes "by smoke" and "by condensate".

Two installation principles: "by smoke" and "by condensate"

- If the upper section of the pipe is put on the lower one with a wider socket, then this is called a “smoke” connection - ascending gases have no barriers to free exit to the outside. However, in this case, a small gap inevitably remains, directed upwards (shown by a red arrow in the diagram), where the flowing drops of the resulting condensate will fall. This will most negatively affect the operation of the chimney - the insulation period will soon become damp and will no longer cope with the task of thermal insulation of the internal channel. And that, in turn, means even more. condensation, reduction of thrust and, as a result, a decrease in the efficiency of the boiler.

— In the case of “condensate” installation, drops of moisture freely flow down the surface, into condensate receiver. And in order to prevent the exit of exhaust gases, the outer pipe of the sandwich structure must be mounted "in the smoke" (blue arrow in the diagram). In addition, a layer of sealant is applied in this place and a tight fitting is made with a clamp, so that reliable obturation from the exit of smoke through the sandwich pipe is ensured. And a small amount of gases that can penetrate the insulation layer will contribute to its ventilation.

Therefore, during installation, the following rules are followed: on the first, horizontal section to the tee, installation is carried out “by smoke”. Throughout the rest sandwich chimney the inner pipe is installed “through condensate”, and the outer pipe is installed “through smoke” using sealant and carefully tightening the assembly with a clamp.

Installation of the inner pipe "by condensate"

Qualitatively mount both the outer and inner pipes at the same time sandwich chimney almost impossible. They usually do it this way. The inner pipe with its tapered end extends slightly outward (by 150–200 mm) and is firmly inserted into the socket of the element already mounted below. Then the narrowed part of the outer pipe located below is smeared with a sealant, and the block of thermal insulation and the outer pipe remaining on top is shifted down to the tightest possible connection. A clamp is put on, and the top tube skirt is tightened (as shown in the diagram).

Installation continues in the same order upwards. Attached to the wall at regular intervals. brackets with clamps fix the t ruble in a vertical or inclined position at the required distance from the surface of the building.
If the structure is heavy, then a relief bracket is provided with a corresponding plate equipped with a connecting element to continue mounting higher.
Installation ends with the installation of a cone and the required head.

If necessary, a special clamp with three lugs is attached to the pipe for attaching stretch marks. Stretch marks are attached on the opposite side to the fixed parts of the roof or building.

Video: installation master class sandwich chimney outside the house

Features of installation with an internal location of the chimney

During installation sandwich chimney inside the room, there are nuances of passing it through the ceiling and roof.

First of all, once again it can be noted that after the section with a single-walled pipe, at the inlet from the boiler, an element with a gate valve is installed so that the heat does not immediately escape vertically into the atmosphere.

At the transition to the sandwich, a starting plug must be installed, which will close the protruding edge of the thermal insulation layer.

The passage of the pipe through the ceiling corresponds in general terms to the passage through the wall of combustible materials already described.

Be sure to attach a passage unit (box-shaped or cylindrical) to the ceiling from below, which must be densely filled with thermal insulation material - mineral wool, or in this case expanded clay is allowed.

From above, the passage unit is then closed with a metal plate.

As already mentioned, some manufacturers provide in detailing systems special feed-through modules, which are a kind of "sandwich in a sandwich". Working with such elements is even easier - an opening of the desired shape and size is cut out under them, the block is installed in it, and then a sandwich pipe is threaded through the hole.

When designing a chimney system, the location of the floor beams and roof rafters must be taken into account - the pipe should run approximately in the middle between adjacent elements. If necessary, sometimes it is necessary to slightly change the direction of the chimney, using bends of 45 ° for this. It is forbidden to use rectangular branches for this purpose.

The joining of pipes in the thickness of the ceiling or at the level of the roof is completely excluded. It is necessary to observe the distance from the joint to the floor or roof level of at least 250 — 300 mm.

During the passage, an opening is first cut out, as a rule, of a rectangular shape.

Then another section of the chimney is drawn through this window.
It is necessary to provide accurate positioning pipes in the center of this opening. This can be done with a metal sheet with an elliptical hole cut out, fixed to the back of the roof, or even simply by fixing the chimney with metal profiles.

Then a special roofing module is put on the pipe - a conical roof, having an angle corresponding to the steepness of the roof slope. It is attached to the roof deck, and is closed from above with a comfrey, which is fixed with a clamp or a locking screw.

The upper edge of the metal support plate of the roof, if possible, is led under the roofing material. If this is not possible, then a thorough sealing is performed with a sealant.

Very easy to use elastic kryzy (they are often called "Master Flash"). They can be used for almost any slope slope, including mounting on relief roofing (slate, corrugated board, etc.). The hole in the conical part is cut out a slightly smaller diameter than that of the pipe passing through it to ensure maximum sealing. The supporting part of the "Master Flash" can be given the required shape, and then, after smearing the bottom surface with a layer of sealant, this assembly is attached to the roof with self-tapping screws.

Finished roof sandwich chimney section

The final stage has no features - the same installation of the head with the necessary elements.

Video: installation sandwich chimney with penetration through the ceiling and roof

So, to perform an independent installation of a chimney sandwich, at first glance, is not so difficult. However, this event requires stable skills, increased accuracy, caution, especially when working at heights. There are no trifles in this matter, because an incorrectly assembled system can cause a fire or other small and big troubles.

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