Insulate the floor from the subfloor. Floor in a wooden house: insulation from below with foam, mineral wool, using industrial equipment. The process of insulating reinforced concrete floors

03.11.2019 Heating

It is important to properly insulate the floor, as this will prevent heat loss from the building and ensure the most comfortable temperature. There are two types of insulation: top and bottom. Each case must be considered separately, since only one of them will be literate from the point of view of thermal engineering in the case of thermal protection of different elements of the building. When is it better to apply floor insulation in a wooden house or in a country house from below?

Basic structures for insulation

Thermal protection of vertical elements in a private house is required in three cases:

  1. floor insulation above a cold basement;
  2. interfloor ceilings;
  3. attic floor in the presence of a cold attic.

In the second case, work is carried out to improve the sound insulation characteristics.

Insulation in a wooden house helps prevent the following problems:

  • overexpenditure in the heating system;
  • violation of the temperature and humidity conditions of the room;
  • rotting of floor structures;
  • the appearance of mold and fungus.

In a private house or country house, it is worth thinking about thermal insulation measures at the design stage.

In what cases and why is insulation from below correct?

It is better to warm the floor above a cold attic from above, but it is technically more competent to perform thermal protection of the ceiling above the basement from below. This has its reasons:

  • no reduction in the height of the room on the ground floor;
  • there is no need to choose a dense hard insulation that will withstand the loads from residents, furniture and equipment;
  • protection against freezing not only of the floor, but of the entire wooden floor;
  • displacement of the dew point (the line on which condensate falls) to the floor surface from the thickness of the structure, which prevents decay.

But when carrying out work in a private house or in the country, there may be some difficulties associated specifically with working from below:

  • the need for a more reliable fixing of the insulation;
  • the complexity of work in a low subfloor;
  • the need to work on the ceiling leads to rapid fatigue of workers;
  • restriction on the types of insulation.

Therefore, if you are looking for easier ways to insulate, we recommend that you read the following articles:

Material Requirements

Features of the method of carrying out work force the use of only certain heat-insulating materials. The main requirements for carrying out heat protection measures in a private wooden house or in a country house from below include:

  1. a small mass of insulation, since the place of attachment to the ceiling experiences increased loads;
  2. Ease of use;
  3. high efficiency;
  4. connectivity of the structure (bulk materials are not suitable);
  5. fire resistance if possible, since when working in a wooden house it is necessary to ensure maximum fire safety.

There are quite a few material options that meet all these requirements.

Bottom insulation materials

  • mineral wool, produced in the form of rolls;



Mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs can also be used, it is installed between the beams of a wooden floor in a country house or in an individual building from below so that the width of the slab is slightly more than the distance between the beams in cleanliness. In this case, the rigid insulation will be held by friction. They also act when installing thermal protection on a mansard roof.

Mineral wool insulation has the following advantages:

  • high efficiency;
  • incombustibility;

The main disadvantage of the material is that workers need reliable protection against the ingress of fibers on the skin and lungs: gloves, overalls, masks.

In the country and at home, you can also use inexpensive foam. Its main advantage, of course, is the cost, but there are others:

  • good thermal insulation;
  • low degree of water absorption;
  • ease of installation;
  • no need for complex tools or workwear.

The fact that the material has low strength is not important when insulated from below, but combustibility and instability to the simultaneous effects of negative temperatures and a humid environment are obvious disadvantages. The solution to the second issue can be reliable waterproofing and protection from steam. Due to the low cost, this type of material has become quite widespread.

The third option for insulation was polyurethane foam. This type of thermal protection has the following positive characteristics:

  • ease of installation;
  • reliability of fastening due to penetration into cracks, irregularities and inaccessible places;
  • efficiency as thermal protection;
  • biological resistance.

Mounting technology


Mineral wool insulation from below

Fastening methods for each material are different, but with the device of reliable thermal protection it is necessary to observe the order of layers, which is the same for all. When insulating from the side of a cold basement or underground, materials for insulation and protection of the insulation are arranged in the following order:

  1. waterproofing;
  2. thermal insulation layer;
  3. vapor barrier;
  4. floor structure;
  5. floor construction.

Compliance with just this order will provide a normal temperature and humidity regime in the house. Next, you need to consider in more detail the location of the protective materials.

In a house with an existing wooden floor of the 1st floor, insulation from below can be done by attaching bars with a cross section of 50x50 to 50x100 to the beams below and placing insulating material between them. After waterproofing, the resulting cake can be hemmed with boards.

Waterproofing

Cold air from the basement can condensate on the warm floor surface. The constant presence of moisture on the structure will lead to the formation of mold or fungus, and subsequently to decay, even if the wood is treated with special compounds. In addition, condensate is very harmful for the heat-insulating layer. It can lead to an increase in thermal conductivity. To avoid this, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the side of cold air.

vapor barrier

From the side of a warm room, the situation changes. Here the problem is not liquid water, but warm steam. Penetrating into the thickness of the material, as it approaches the outer surface, the steam cools and turns into water. This process is especially dangerous because, unlike the previous case, moisture is formed not on the surface, but in the thickness of the structure. This increases the risk of wetting and destruction of the insulation and rotting of wood elements.


Vapor barrier - polyethylene film

The vapor barrier layer prevents the penetration of steam from the room.

When insulating the ceiling of the upper floor, the arrangement of the layers changes. Based on physics, it is necessary to place protection from steam on the side of warm air, and from moisture on the side of cold air.

As both types of protection, in the simplest case, you can use a polyethylene film. When warming the basement, sometimes moisture-windproof membranes are used as waterproofing. They do not prevent the movement of air, but reliably retain moisture.

In order to reliably protect the house from the penetration of cold, it is necessary to think about this at the design stage, but measures to protect the basement from below allow work to be carried out during operation.

This method of installation does not require disassembly of the floor covering and does not create uncomfortable conditions for residents.

Video about floor insulation from the basement with polyurethane foam:

It is important to carefully approach the choice of material for insulation and follow all the manufacturer's recommendations. This will ensure reliable and long-term operation. The thickness of the layer is selected depending on the climatic region and the selected insulation. Knowing the thermal conductivity and layer thickness, competent calculations can be performed even by a non-professional. This is possible thanks to the convenient Teremok program, which is freely available.

The increase in prices for housing and communal services makes all homeowners, without exception, solve energy saving problems. One of the important points for ensuring energy saving at home is the insulation of the basement floor.

Therefore, it is necessary to insulate the basement ceiling. Work on the insulation of the ceiling and floor in the basement is carried out in cases where it is planned to stay in it for a certain period of time.

Building materials for basement insulation

For the correct use of the basement and basement, work should be carried out on the thermal insulation of surfaces in contact with the ground.

Experts say that the temperature of the floor surface in the house directly affects the degree of heat in all rooms.

To effectively retain heat, innovative and traditional materials are used:

  • Styrofoam;
  • penophthol;
  • polyurethane foam
  • penoizol;
  • expanded polystyrene;
  • penoplex;
  • mineral wool.

Styrofoam belongs to environmentally friendly materials, has the best thermal insulation and waterproofing characteristics, provides good sound insulation, is inert to other building materials, has high resistance to acids, alkalis, alcohols. The material is lightweight and does not increase the load on the foundation.

Penoftol or foamed polyethylene is one of the types of laminate substrates. Penoftol does not react with building materials, it is resistant to fungi and mold, bacteria. It does not start rodents and insects. The material has high waterproofing characteristics and low thermal conductivity. The closed cell structure of penoftol allows it to have unique thermal and sound insulation properties.

PPU polyurethane foam is a type of gas-filled plastics that has gas-filled cells in its structure. The uniqueness of this material lies in the fact that it is applied to insulated surfaces by spraying with the help of special equipment. As a result, a homogeneous monolithic heat-insulating material is obtained, in which there are no joints and cold bridges. The material has excellent characteristics and is used for hydro, heat, sound and vapor barrier.

Penoizol - a variant of liquid foam, manufactured on special installations. It is produced directly on construction sites and immediately pumped into hollow structures or poured into formwork. Penoizol does not burn, is biologically stable, has excellent vapor-permeable and heat-insulating properties. The service life of the material is 50 years.

Expanded polystyrene is a gas-filled material that is obtained from polystyrene and styrene copolymers. In the manufacture of heat-insulating material, gas is dissolved in the polymer mass, and styrene granules are filled with gas. Next, the polymer mass is heated with steam, while the initial granules increase many times in volume, occupy the entire shape and sinter together. Very technologically advanced material, has a low thermal conductivity.

Penoplex is a heat-insulating board made of expanded polystyrene. It is characterized by high thermal insulation properties, strength, biostability and minimal water absorption.

Mineral wool is a natural thermal insulation material. It is made by the method of high-temperature melt from metallurgical slags, to which basalt rocks are added. The production technology of this material is based on natural processes that occur during volcanic explosions. The molten components of mineral wool (at temperatures above 1500 ºС) are ejected from the nozzle in the form of hot lava under pressure and turn into puffs of fibrous material, which, when cooled, resemble frayed cotton wool.

Back to index

Internal and external work on the insulation of floor surfaces

All basement floor insulation works are divided into 2 types: internal and external work. Carrying out a set of insulation measures can reduce heat loss at home by 20%.

Floor insulation in the basement is carried out in order to protect the structure from groundwater and for effective thermal insulation. Basement floor insulation works and allow maintaining the optimum temperature in the room during the cold season and at the same time reduce energy costs. An unheated basement allows dampness and cold to enter the room.

Work to improve the thermal insulation of a country house has different features. So the cost of wooden houses with a lightweight foundation is much less than the cost of a stone house. The specifics of the performance of thermal insulation also depends on what functions the room performs. More carefully carry out work on the thermal insulation of the floor from the basement in the bedrooms and other living rooms. And the cycle of work on warming the pantry or garage looks much simpler.

Back to index

Tools to get the job done

The working tool used to carry out thermal insulation work differs slightly according to the type of insulation.

For mineral wool, use the following tool:

  • knives for cutting cotton wool;
  • wooden ruler;
  • bandage or respirator;
  • gloves;
  • maximally closed special clothing.

When insulating with polyurethane foam, use the following tool:

  • formwork boards;
  • special equipment for applying polyurethane foam to the surface;
  • ruler;
  • building spirit level.

To perform waterproofing use:

  • scissors;
  • construction stapler;
  • paperclips;
  • set of hand tools.

Back to index

Internal insulation work

Insulation of the floor from the inside begins with preparatory work.

  1. The base of the floor is leveled and gravel or crushed stone is covered with a layer of 25 cm.
  2. A layer of sand 5-10 cm high is laid on top of the gravel. The base is compacted using a vibrating machine or manually.
  3. A reinforcing mesh or reinforcement frame is laid on the compacted layer.
  4. Concrete is poured, while carefully compacting it. The draft floor is ready. He is allowed to grab and stand.










Competently carried out work on floor insulation is the key to maintaining a comfortable temperature in the house and minimal heat loss. Such work can be carried out both during the construction of a new building and in operated houses, for example, floor insulation in a wooden house from below from the basement. To achieve energy savings and reduce heat losses by up to 20%, not only high-quality floor insulation will help, but also the right choice of heat-insulating material.


The presence of a basement in the house allows you to insulate the floor from below

Benefits of bottom insulation

From the point of view of labor costs, it is more profitable to insulate the floor from above. In this case, the insulating layer is mounted between the frame (logs) and the top finishing layer.

But in some situations, lower insulation is preferable.

This method of thermal insulation is most often used in private houses with an uninsulated basement, garage, in frame buildings on pile and pile-screw foundations.
Bottom insulation has several advantages:

    the insulation layer is not subjected to loads from furniture standing on the floor and the movement of people around the house, therefore, heat-insulating material of any rigidity can be used;

    the height of the room does not decrease;

    not only the top flooring is protected from freezing, but the entire floor frame, which reduces the likelihood of freezing and water ingress on the wood - this increases the service life of wooden structures and ensures their reliability.


It is more expedient to insulate a house on stilts from below

Thermal insulation materials

The choice of insulation for a wooden house is based on two criteria: incombustibility and the ability to resist the formation of mold fungi and other microorganisms. But when choosing a material for lower insulation, the specific situation and the intended installation method are taken into account.

Before purchasing materials, it is better to consult a contractor than to insulate the floor in a private house from below. Most often used:

    mineral wool;

    Styrofoam;

    penoplex;

  • expanded clay.

mineral wool It is considered one of the best heaters, so many prefer it to him. A plus is good soundproofing performance. Cotton wool is not subject to biological destruction, does not burn.

Cons: low mechanical strength and deterioration of thermal insulation properties when exposed to water or steam. Therefore, when using, special attention should be paid to vapor and waterproofing. Cotton wool can be represented by flexible rolls or dense slabs.


Mineral wool in slabs is often used for insulation from the basement side.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Styrofoam- Another popular heater. Combines the good qualities of mineral wool and mechanical strength. But in case of possible ignition, it releases toxic substances. Due to its structure, it retains heat well and ensures minimal heat loss. Long service life eliminates the need for replacement, but the ability to absorb moisture can adversely affect some performance.

Penoplex. A recently appeared material is based on polystyrene, into which gas is introduced. The mass is foamed and squeezed into molding containers. The gas evaporates and the output is a sheet of insulation with many pores. This is a material with unique thermal insulation characteristics, very light, easy to install. Durability and immunity to biological organisms provide a long service life. The material is non-flammable, does not emit harmful substances and does not absorb water.

Penofol- material for the production of which polyethylene foam is used. An aluminum film is applied to its top layer, which reflects heat, which gives the room the characteristics of a thermos. The structure of penofol does not contain pores, which does not allow it to pass air.


Penofol perfectly reflects heat

Expanded clay- loose material, in the form of porous balls, which is formed during the firing of clay or shale. This is a completely environmentally friendly material that has high heat saving rates, good fire resistance and frost resistance. But over time, expanded clay becomes caked under the action of gravity and begins to lose quality, so this material must be changed periodically.

To decide how to insulate the floor in a wooden house from below, it is necessary to choose the insulation that will perform the function of a heat insulator better than others in a particular situation.

Principles of installation work

Regardless of the choice of type of thermal insulation, it is necessary to follow the sequence of work performed for proper insulation. Considering the structure from the bottom up, it will look like this:

    waterproofing layer;

    thermal insulation layer;

    vapor barrier layer;

    construction for floor installation;

Compliance with this order of work guarantees the maintenance of normal temperature conditions in the room and the protection of the structure from freezing and decay.
The easiest way to lower insulation is along the lags. They are bars measuring 5x10 cm or more, on which the floor is subsequently laid.

The scheme of floor insulation along the lags

After their installation (the recommended distance between adjacent lags is 1 m), plywood sheets, chipboards or beams are hemmed from below, on which a waterproofing layer is laid. This is a measure to combat condensation, which can reduce the performance of the thermal insulation layer. Approximately this technology is used in the insulation of the house "Stanislav Chalet".

Next, the heater is installed. Its thickness should not exceed the thickness of the lag, but it is better to be several centimeters less. The next stage is the laying of a vapor barrier, which will prevent moisture from entering the insulation from inside the room. And at the end floorboards are laid.

If it is necessary to insulate the finished floor in a wooden house from below, there may be problems with fixing the insulation, which can be solved in one of the following ways:

    Adhesive mount. Almost any insulation can be glued to the floor surface (and the ceiling in the basement) using special adhesives.

    Rail mounting. To support the insulation, bars, slats, etc. are nailed to the logs.

    Docking in size. Tight joining of heat-insulating material with lags using, if necessary, spacer wedges.


When laying the insulation end-to-end with the lags, it is necessary to strictly maintain the size

In any case, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier, and after insulation, hem the basement ceiling with boards. This will prevent the insulation and its particles from falling down.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that have a full production cycle. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Technology and features of floor insulation from below in a wooden house

For each type of insulation, there are some features of use.

Mineral wool

The sizes of rolls and plates are usually a multiple of 60 cm, which makes this distance the optimal step between the lags. Mineral wool is cut to size with a cutter and placed in the space between the joists. For a snug fit, the size should be 1-2 cm larger than the distance between the lags. Vatu should not be crushed forcefully, as this may affect its characteristics.

The best option would be to lay two layers of insulation. The second layer is laid in such a way that the joint of the lower layer falls on the center of the upper piece. This installation method will prevent cold air from entering the room.

Video description

You can get acquainted with the stages of floor insulation with mineral wool along the logs in the video:

When working with this insulation, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment - gloves, a respirator and goggles, since small particles can get on the mucous membrane and in the respiratory tract, which will cause irritation.

Penoplex and polystyrene

If foam plastic is used when insulating a wooden floor from below in a private house, several rules for working with it must be taken into account:

    Styrofoam absorbs water, so waterproofing is required. Many experts do not take this property into account during installation, which leads to a decrease in thermal insulation characteristics.

    It is recommended to cut the sheets not exactly according to the size of the gap between the lags, but 1-2 cm less. This will fill the gaps between the sheet and the lag with mounting foam, which will increase the thermal insulation properties. The joints between the sheets also need to be foamed.

Sheets can be fastened using rails, spacer wedges or special adhesives.


Floor insulation with polystyrene foam in a wooden house

The principle of working with penoplex is no different. But due to the smaller thickness of the material, it can be laid with overlapping of the joints of the sheets in order to avoid the occurrence of cold islands (similar to mineral wool).

But with this method, the consumption of material increases significantly, and these are additional financial costs.

We offer you to get acquainted with the popular one - from the construction company "Shelf" - presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Penofol

Due to the property of not allowing moisture to pass through, penofol does not need additional laying of vapor and waterproofing. But so that the water vapor that forms in the room does not settle on the insulation layer, an air gap is needed between it and the floor covering for air circulation.

Laying is done with the foil side up only. This will provide heat reflection, which will increase the temperature in the house. Penofol can be used as a waterproofing when laying mineral wool or polystyrene. This can increase thermal insulation several times, but this method is quite expensive.


Penofol joints are sealed with adhesive tape

The material is sold in rolls and is easily cut into pieces of the desired size. Fastening is carried out with a construction stapler on staples or thin slats, which are nailed. To improve the result, it is recommended to lay penofol in several layers.

Conclusion

One of the main problems of wooden houses is the cold floor, which interferes with a comfortable life and increases heating costs. Proper insulation will solve this problem. Regardless of the material that is chosen for warming the finished floor in a wooden house from below, it is required to strictly follow the general technology and the procedure for warming, and also take into account the features of a particular heater. The cost of arranging insulation pays off within one season.

Underfloor heating in a living room is comfort, coziness, and a healthy atmosphere. Buildings of a modern type are designed according to the latest technologies and are often equipped with heated technical rooms. The floor thermal insulation layer added during construction keeps the heat throughout the house and saves owners from the hassle of additional floor insulation.

In private wooden buildings, the situation is completely different. Outdated residential buildings often do not have an insulated floor above a cold basement. Often, the owners carry out repair work on their own and carry out the insulation of floors and ceilings in the basement with their own hands.

Why insulate the floor

In old wooden houses, cold cellars and storage of vegetable products are always used. Such rooms, located below the floor level, in most cases have a small thickness of the flooring layer and cause a lot of trouble to the owners.

There are several ways to insulate the floor.

Without an insulating layer from under the floor, it pulls cold air and dampness all year round. This situation has a detrimental effect not only on human health - it is reflected in the condition of the materials from which the floor wooden floors and wooden floor boards are laid. Also, the processes of decay develop in the wood.

It becomes noticeable that the tree is rotten, dilapidated, and logs blackened from the fungus are visible on the log ceiling of the cellar. Until they finally turn into dust, the owner faces a completely solvable task of how to replace the floors and what materials to use for this purpose.

Ways to insulate the floor above the basement

So that the basement does not cause trouble during further operation, the ceilings are replaced in the underground. Further, insulation work is carried out, and the choice of insulation, as well as the methods of insulation, are approached very thoroughly. The process includes not only the insulation of the ceiling and floor from the basement side, but also the insulation of the floor directly above the basement.

In this video you will learn more about insulation:

The process depends entirely on the design features of the building. In a residential private house, there is not always a basement. Insulation measures are carried out directly on the ground, since the heat engineering calculation involves the organization of a ceiling over the basement from the side of the house. During the construction period, the quality and characteristics of the materials used should be taken into account.

What material is used to insulate the floor

The construction and installation of floor slabs is carried out in various ways, which, like the proposed materials, are sufficient. It all depends on the features of the structure, individual requirements, preferences of the owner and material capabilities. Many insulating raw materials have high-quality properties, good characteristics and receive only high marks during operation.

Styrofoam

Industrial enterprises produce several types of special plates that can be used for insulation. When choosing a material, be sure to pay attention to the purpose of the room and the further load on the floor.

At the initial stage of the process, a thick layer of gravel is laid on the bases of the prepared surface, which is covered with a concrete screed. Next, carry out waterproofing of the floor. At the last stage, a wide, soft and comfortable roll material is pulled.

Extruded polystyrene foam

The composition of such plates contains more durable materials. Construction raw materials have a high density, and it is used when it is necessary to hold large weights and loads.

Expanded polystyrene practically does not absorb moisture, it is used in places even with a high level of groundwater. Easy-to-use material attracts with a low price and does not require the help of special equipment during the work being carried out.

Polyurethane foam boards

Of the large number of offered tile insulation, the best option is only rigid materials with a homogeneous structure and closed cells. Perform floor insulation with such a building material more efficiently, in a short time and at no extra cost.


Some types of insulation are covered with foil

Some types of polyurethane foam boards are covered with aluminum foil or fiberglass. Such additions increase thermal insulation properties, reduce moisture permeability and distinguish foam from other similar materials.

Mineral wool

Rigid cotton slabs are chosen as thermal insulation in a wooden house. The material is characterized by high resistance to deformation. Such a system of insulation can be carried out with your own hands, since the entire installation process will not take much time. The fibrous material absorbs moisture well, it is laid out over an unheated basement between two waterproofing layers. For floor insulation in residential premises, it is recommended to use ten-centimeter-thick mineral wool.

Expanded clay

Loose air material is able to replace three layers at once in home floor insulation: concrete base, gravel, thermal insulation. Drainage is covered in layers, periodically compacting each. At the end, expanded clay is shed with a solution of cement and sand. When the three-centimeter crust has hardened, a waterproofing insulation and a concrete screed are laid under the finishing floor. After the insulation work has been completed, the laying of the laminate begins.

Foam glass

Proper insulation with this material is carried out as follows:

  • spread a ten-centimeter gravel layer;
  • pour a concrete screed;
  • a special adhesive is applied to the ends of the insulation blocks;
  • after the glue dries, the installation of the underfloor heating structure is carried out.

In rooms with high humidity, to enhance waterproofing, a roofing material, two layers of polyethylene film, and a cement screed are laid on the foam glass. Such actions are usually carried out if the finish flooring is made of ceramic tiles.

Granular slag

The material has high thermal insulation properties, but the by-product of iron smelting contains harmful impurities. In the construction and insulation of country houses, material is used that has undergone careful processing and has a document on compliance with regulatory requirements.

The slag is laid directly on the leveled ground, without the use of waterproofing. The layer thickness should be 40 cm. Next, put a layer of insulation. The process is completed by a poured concrete screed. The flooring can be laid out from any material you like the most.

Ecological cotton

Fluff pulp is convenient in the workflow. Environmentally friendly material is not damaged by rodents, insects, fungi. When wet, it does not lose its protective properties, does not shrink, does not support fire when ignited, but smolders. The material is used in dry form and with a solution.


This wadding is easy to mount

Floor insulation technology above the basement in a private house

The basement of the house can be operated and not operated. It can be warm or cold. But regardless of the condition of the basement, the floors in the house should be warm. The work carried out on floor insulation in a private house has significant advantages:

  1. The consumption of heating agents is reduced.
  2. The room is set to a comfortable temperature.
  3. Between the slabs and the walls of the floor, rotting and damage to the floor structures does not begin.
  4. Fungal deposits, mold on the foundation and walls are absent.
  5. After the expiration of the service life, cosmetic finishing, repair and arrangement do not take much time and money.

There are many technologies for floor insulation above the basement, but the fastening methods for each material are different. When conducting a reliable thermal protection device, it is necessary to observe the sequence of layers, which are the same for all existing methods. You should also take a responsible approach to the choice of materials and strictly follow all the recommendations of the manufacturer.

Features of insulation of the ceiling of the basement of an apartment building

All the proposed methods and materials are relevant for basement floor insulation in private homes. In apartment buildings, homeowners on the first floors are often interested in how realistic it is to insulate the ceiling in the basement, when these premises are not personal property.

Living in an apartment under which there is a basement, tenants are faced with the problem of cold floors, dampness and mold. Laying an insulating layer in an apartment causes high costs for insulation and forced replacement of the flooring. Also, this situation forces the owner to limit the thickness of the insulation layer if the apartment has low ceilings.

To carry out work on the insulation of the ceiling in the basement of an apartment building, residents will need a lot of effort, time, patience to collect all kinds of permits and certificates. It is not a fact that the planned enterprise will be productive and positive.

The main distinguishing feature of the construction of the floor of the 1st floor, located above the unheated underground, is that there is a heater in the construction. And where there is a heater, the question of its protection from adverse factors automatically arises in order to preserve its heat-shielding qualities. And one of the most important issues of protecting the insulation is the issue of protecting it from moisture, that is, a vapor barrier device. This article will focus on the insulation of the wooden floor of the first floor above the basement, and with your own hands.

Creation of a temperature and humidity regime

The main task of all structures using insulation is to create the correct mode of its operation, i.e. make sure that moisture does not penetrate into the insulation, and that which can form in it, has the opportunity to freely evaporate to the outside. The first means of protection is a vapor barrier. The second means is ventilation, as sufficient ventilation promotes the evaporation of moisture. These principles should be used when constructing the floor of the 1st floor.

The first is ensured by the correct use of vapor barriers. Ventilation is provided by air gaps and space under the floor (underground). The underground (technical underground, basement) must be dry and well ventilated. Incorrect temperature and humidity conditions of the underground can lead to the formation of condensate inside the insulation. To prevent this from happening, the underground must have air ducts for its ventilation. At very low air temperatures in winter, they can even be closed so that the temperature in the underground is not very low and this does not lead to a large temperature difference, which contributes to the formation of condensate in the insulation or on its surface.

Types of heaters

As a heater, both bulk and rolled or slab materials are used. Bulk heaters are expanded clay, vermiculite, slag, mineral fibers, shavings.

Expanded clay backfill

Board materials are prefabricated boards or blocks of materials with low thermal conductivity. Recently, polyurethane foam insulation has become very popular, which are blown into the space of the insulated structure.

Mineral wool insulation

But the most popular, especially in private construction, are flexible, soft materials. Such heaters are good because they are easy to give the necessary shape, they are convenient when laying. The most common insulation is the so-called mineral wool in the form of mats or rolls.

Advantages of mineral wool insulation:

  • good thermal conductivity;
  • non-flammable and does not support combustion;
  • lightweight, savings on load-bearing structures;
  • convenience and speed of installation.

Flaws:

  • hygroscopicity;
  • you need a foundation for laying.

Vapor barrier - why is it needed

The insulation must be protected from moisture. Any insulation, if it gets wet, loses its heat-shielding properties very much. And since mineral wool is a hygroscopic material, care must be taken that moisture does not get on it.

But protection is required not only from water. Protection is required against the ingress of steam. Vapor barrier plays an important role in creating optimal operating conditions for the insulation.

Without delving into the concepts of partial pressure, we note the importance of understanding two points:

It is the vapor barrier that is the barrier that prevents moisture (in the form of steam) from penetrating into the insulation;

It is important to correctly determine in which place of the "pie" the vapor barrier should be placed.

vapor barrier

The principle of placement of vapor barrier

In order to briefly, but at the same time clearly understand where the vapor barrier should be placed, you need to remember: steam always spreads from a place with a higher pressure to an area of ​​\u200b\u200blower pressure. It can be put simply this way: warm steam always (practically) spreads from the room to the outside. This must be remembered and then it is easier not to get confused with where it should be placed.

It follows from the foregoing that the vapor barrier is not placed "above" or "under" the insulation. It is located "between" a warm room-source of steam (usually indoor heated rooms) and a cold room (outdoor space) where this steam moves. Therefore, in the case of insulation of the attic floor, the vapor barrier will be under the insulation, and in the case of insulation of the wooden floor above the basement - above the insulation.

The concepts of vapor barrier, waterproofing, membrane

In order for the vapor barrier to be effective, i.e. worked correctly and did not cause harm, the film must be laid on the correct side. To do this, you need to study the manufacturer's instructions and consult with the seller. A large number of various materials for protection against steam and water are now being produced. But there is a difference between them. The scope of their application depends on the type of premises, their humidity and temperature conditions, ambient air temperature, for which construction they are used - roofs, ceilings or walls. Often confusion comes from the concepts themselves: vapor barrier and membrane, vapor barrier is used instead of waterproofing.

vapor barrier designed to protect against water vapor that is in the air of the room. In fact, steam is a water-saturated gas, or we can say the gaseous state of water. The vapor barrier must have a low vapor permeability, i.e. she must not skip steam. It is approximately equal to 10 grm2sut.

Basically, the vapor barrier is a film. They can be conditionally divided into:

Vapor-permeable or "breathable" (membranes);

Vapor-tight, practically impervious to steam, water or air.

Waterproofing designed to protect structures from water. Water molecules are larger than gas molecules.

Membrane. Now the word membrane has become very popular. Membranes are already more high-tech films. With regard to the topic of vapor barrier, we can say that this is a material capable of leaking or vice versa trapping certain substances. The most commonly used expression is a vapor-permeable moisture-proof membrane. This means that this material does not pass water, but at the same time passes steam and allows moisture to evaporate. It is these properties that are required during construction to protect thermal insulation.

The direction from where the membrane passes steam and from where it does not let water through can be different for different membranes, depending on the place of its destination. Therefore, you need to be very careful when choosing and ask the seller all the necessary characteristics.

The main structural schemes of the floor of the 1st floor

Consider the construction of the floor of the 1st floor above the underground or unheated basement.

Scheme of the wooden floor of the first floor without waterproofing

The basic layout of the floor of the first floor is as follows. On the bearing beams, which are based on the foundation, the subfloor is laid. The draft floor is necessary in order to lay out insulation on it. The insulation is placed in the space between the bars. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation. Between the vapor barrier and the plank flooring, it is imperative to organize an air gap for the evaporation of condensate, which may form on the vapor barrier from the side of the room. It can be organized by nailing bars 2-3 cm high. A boardwalk is arranged on top of which the finishing floor is laid.

Scheme of the construction of the floor of the 1st floor above the subfloor

The load-bearing structure of the floor is beams. The step of the bars is usually 60-80 cm. You can choose a step so that it would be convenient to lay out insulation between the bars. Then the step will be equal to the width of the insulation plus the thickness of the timber.

In places where the beams are attached to stone structures, there should be a waterproofing gasket between them, for example, from roofing material or bituminous mastic. Between the beam and the foundation wall, it is necessary to make a gap for ventilation, the beam should not adjoin the wall closely.

There must be a gap between the vapor barrier and the flooring for ventilation

Draft floor. To attach the subfloor to the bars, smaller bars, “cranial bars”, are attached. Subfloor boards are laid on them. Here you can use a board with a thickness of 15-50 mm of low grade.

floor construction with insulation

Wooden floor of the 1st floor with waterproofing

Sometimes waterproofing is provided in the floor construction. It is appropriate if the basement is very damp, there is a high level of groundwater. Then there is a need to protect the insulation from below. For this, waterproofing is arranged under the insulation. This waterproofing should be made of a water-repellent but vapor-permeable membrane. In order to avoid annoying mistakes, it is better to call the top film just a vapor barrier (even if the manufacturer calls the film itself a membrane), and the bottom one - waterproofing. And here, ideally, a membrane should really be used - a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane.

An example of the use of improper waterproofing

This video is a very clear example of the fact that water can form in the insulation. This video is very common on YouTube under various names. Very often it is called "wrong vapor barrier". The vapor barrier itself is not visible in the video. Perhaps the authors of this design used the bottom film as some kind of vapor barrier.

But the point is that the bottom film was supposed to be waterproofing, waterproof on one side, but vapor permeable on the other.

Useful videos

The basement of the house can be exploited and non-exploited, warm and cold. A heated basement usually does not create problems for residents. From unheated house pulls cold. How to perform floor insulation over a cold basement?

Ways to insulate the floor above the basement

There are two ways: to treat the basement ceiling with heat-insulating material and to insulate the ceiling from the side of the house. In the first case, the choice of insulation is small: either sheet / plate materials that are glued to the ceiling and fixed with mushroom-type dowel-nails, or sprayed with liquid polyurethane foam.

When insulating the ceiling from above, various bulk substances are also used.

In addition to laying thermal insulation in the house, you can install a "warm floor" system, water or electric. The design of the underfloor heating pie also includes waterproofing and insulation - otherwise, most of the heat from the cable or pipes will go to the basement.

What material can insulate the floor

Here is a list of materials that can be used to insulate the floor above an unheated basement from the side of the house:

1. Expanded polystyrene with a density of 35 kg per cubic meter, including extruded. Excellent thermal insulation properties, water resistance, vapor permeability, ease of installation, low price.

Special profile mats are made from PPS for laying underfloor heating.

Cons of the material: flammability and toxicity during combustion.

2. Mineral wool (usually basalt). It is also a high-quality insulation, non-flammable, environmentally friendly, easy to process and inexpensive. Minus: hygroscopicity. In the wet state, most of the heat-shielding properties are lost. When installing mineral wool insulation, it is obligatory to lay a vapor barrier membrane on top, because. cotton wool is a vapor-permeable material.

3. Expanded clay. Bulk material, baked clay granules. Nonflammable, environmentally friendly, cheap. Light weight, can be used for warming wooden bases. It is used both separately and as part of a concrete screed.

Minus: hygroscopicity. In the wet state, the weight increases, the load on the floor increases.

4. Ecowool - fluff pulp. Ease of processing, environmental friendliness, non-susceptibility to damage by rodents and fungus. Does not shrink, does not lose heat-shielding properties when wet. Does not support combustion, but smolders. Used dry and in solution. Minus: for laying, special injection equipment is required.

5. sawdust. Environmentally friendly, cheap and warm material. Cons: combustibility, hygroscopicity. In its pure form, it is susceptible to rotting, damage by rodents, insects, and fungus. It is used as a mixture with lime and gypsum or with clay.

6. Liquid polyurethane foam. It is applied from the spray gun in an even layer over the entire surface of the base, forms a tight, even coating without voids.

Can be applied to reinforced concrete slab, subfloor or between joists. Cons: combustibility (G1, G2), susceptibility to destruction by ultraviolet rays, an airbrush is required for application, not too low a price.

Most heaters can be laid both under a concrete screed and without it. In this case, the choice depends on the base material: a screed cannot be placed on a wooden floor, it will not withstand the weight of concrete. Screed is a common structural element of underfloor heating if they are installed on top of a concrete slab.

Note!

Minus the screed - it greatly reduces the height of the room (for example, the total thickness of the water-heated floor in this case can reach 10 centimeters).

Basement floor insulation technology

With any method of insulation, waterproofing is first laid. In this capacity, ordinary polyethylene film is suitable. Adjacent strips are overlapped and fixed with mounting tape. Definitely need a lap on the walls. Its height depends on the thickness of the cake, including the screed, if any.

You can use PVC film as a material for waterproofing.

1. On a flat base, the insulation boards are laid out end-to-end on the floor, interconnected with adhesive tape.

2. When laying on wooden logs, the slabs are placed between the logs by surprise, fixing is not necessary.

3. When pouring the screed, another layer of waterproofing is laid on top.

4. When installing underfloor heating under pipes / cables, a layer of foil is placed on top of the insulation, which reflects all the heat from the system into the room.

5. Bulk materials are most conveniently placed between the joists and covered with subfloor boards from above: this way they do not reduce the height of the room. When installing on a flat base, wooden partitions are installed instead of lags, on which the subfloor boards will then rest.

6. Above the expanded clay, before pouring the screed, it is imperative to lay a waterproofing membrane (preferably PVC). The screed is poured over the beacons and leveled with the rule.

7. When installing the screed on top of the underfloor heating system, it is necessary to lay a damper tape around the perimeter of the room, otherwise the concrete will crack when heated.

8. The composition of the sawdust mixture: 85% are sawdust, 5 - gypsum, 10 - lime. The components are mixed dry, then diluted with water. The recommended layer is 25 centimeters.

Sawdust screed is not used for underfloor heating. It should be fenced off from the furnace with refractory bricks.

The finish coating can be anything: planed boards, linoleum, parquet, laminate, ceramic tiles. Some of them require a solid base. In the absence of a screed, sheets of chipboard or fiberboard can be used as this.

  • Tags: basement floor insulation

Warming the floor in a wooden house from the bottom of the basement is not an easy task. There are several ways to solve it, which will help to implement the recommendations of specialists and those who personally insulated the underground of the house. At the same time, they get rid of dampness: wet floors create discomfort for residents.

Why insulate the floor?

In a country house or in a private house above an unheated basement, the floor is always cold. And if there is dampness in the underground, then it is slightly damp. This affects the state of the materials that make up the bottom floor. If it is wood, rotting processes begin to develop in it, if it is concrete - dampness and delamination. This reduces the life of the building, and after a while it may receive the status of an emergency.

The floor and other structural elements of the building are insulated in order to reduce heat loss, as a result of which the cost of space heating during the cold season is reduced.

How to insulate the floor from the bottom of the basement?

Warming the floor from the basement side is possible in several ways, but all of them involve fixing the heat-insulating material to a previously prepared surface. The floor of the first floor must be protected from moisture penetration, therefore, first of all, waterproofing is made from any suitable materials.

Basement floor insulation materials

Floor insulation above a cold basement is possible with mineral wool or foam. It is not recommended to use materials based on polyethylene foam ("Penofol", "Teplofol"), as they are not able to fully prevent heat leakage through the lower ceiling.

The choice of heaters is not an easy task. Mineral wool is sold in rolls and slabs. The latter are easier and more convenient to attach to the lower floor from the basement side. The reason is that the boards are stiff, while the fiber webs are loose. If the basement is dry, slabs are the best choice for buildings whose floors are made of frame technology or consist of reinforced concrete slabs. Such floors from the basement side are flat and relatively even.

If the ceiling is installed on wooden beams, it will be much more difficult to fix plate and sheet materials. They will have to be cut so that there are no gaps at the joints of the canvases. In this case, rolled materials will be the best choice, which will allow you to go around the beams without forming gaps. You can also combine loose mineral wool with hard.

Insulation of the floor in the basement with a high level of humidity is recommended to be done using foam. Mineral wool in this case is not suitable, as it is a hygroscopic material. You should not rely on the latest offers from manufacturers: boards treated with a moisture-repellent composition, since their end sections remain unprotected. Polyfoam is devoid of this drawback. It will not get damp in the basement and will last a long time.

There are 3 ways to fix the insulation on a wooden floor from below:

  • on dowel-nails with a wide round hat ("umbrellas");
  • mounting the "double floor" system;
  • on glue (foam only).

There is another way to insulate the basement: the use of sprayed thermal insulation. This is the most expensive method of protecting walls and ceilings. Spray foam (polyurethane foam) has a lot of advantages:

  • forms a seamless coating, excluding the occurrence of "cold bridges";
  • to insulate the basement, a layer 5 cm thick is sufficient, which in terms of the degree of thermal insulation corresponds to 10-12 cm of foam;
  • can be applied to any curved surface;
  • sprayed polyurethane foam does not require hydro and vapor barrier, which makes it possible to reduce the cost of the basement improvement process.

But this method has one drawback: do-it-yourself work requires expensive equipment - a foam generator. Or you will have to invite specialists and pay for their services. If the basement area is large, the best choice is to purchase equipment for spraying PPU. To do this, you will have to buy:

  • pumping station;
  • spray gun;
  • hoses;
  • cylinders with components, when mixed, polyurethane foam is obtained.

An example of calculating materials and tools for insulating a basement with an area of ​​36 m² with a 10 cm thick polyurethane foam layer (required for the northern regions):

  • PGM-3BN or PGM-5BM equipment;
  • cylinders with components "A" (210 kg) and "B" (250 kg);
  • metal container with a volume of 100 l;
  • milk flask;
  • overalls (chemical protection suit).

The market for finishing and repair materials also offers sprayed thermal insulation in cylinders, which is optimal for landscaping small basements. 2 brands are popular: POLYNOR and Teplis. Basement insulation using sprayed thermal insulation in cylinders has its advantages:

  • no need to purchase expensive equipment;
  • simplicity and ease of transportation;
  • convenience of work;
  • the ability to insulate the floors from the basement side on their own, without resorting to the help of specialists.

Among the materials suitable for landscaping the basement is foam glass. It was popular in the middle of the last century, but later its production was considered unprofitable. In the 21st century the manufacturing technology of this insulation has been modernized and it is gaining popularity again. Foam glass is made from a powder obtained by carefully crushing glass and volcanic basalt. The resulting mass is heated and subjected to foaming. The output is a porous material that can retain heat well.

Strengthening on wooden beams (lags)

The floor in a wooden house is traditionally arranged on logs. The technology for performing work on a wooden floor requires the installation of a waterproofing material, regardless of whether we use foam or mineral wool. As a waterproofing, special membranes, roofing material, glassine are used.

The canvases are attached to nails or self-tapping screws, since they will have to be fixed to the basement ceiling. In order for the sheets of waterproofing material to hold securely on the lower floor, they are fastened with wooden slats or galvanized steel strips. The second option is preferable.

The insulation is laid below and fixed with dowel-nails. After that, the mineral wool is covered with a vapor barrier material: special membranes or plastic wrap. When laying foam, this is not required.

Installation of the "double floor" system is possible. To accomplish this task, the space between the lags is sewn up with boards, OSB sheets, and plywood. It is important that the lumber be pre-treated with an antiseptic that prevents rotting and the formation of fungus and mold. Insulation is laid in the openings between the lower ceiling and the skin.

Insulation on concrete floors

Insulating materials for insulating the floor of the first floor of the floor slab are the same: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam. But for waterproofing on concrete, they use not sheet and roll, but coating materials: bitumen-based mastics. Styrofoam insulation will be more profitable, since it does not need to be covered with a vapor barrier. If thermal insulation is performed with mineral wool slabs, they can be glued to the concrete with mastic, but additional fixation with dowel-nails is also necessary.

Conclusion

Warming the floor above the basement is possible with the help of different heat-insulating materials. All landscaping work can be done independently.

Hello! We have been living in our country house for 5 years now. Half of the house is brick, and the second is wooden, surrounded by bricks, but the floor is all wooden: 50mm board. The basement is sandy, 2m high. From the basement side, the floorboards are treated with a protective composition 3 times a single layer. It seems to be dry, but I myself think how many years the treatment will last. Is it possible to nail Isospan or something else for additional protection of the floor from the side of the basement, but so that the floor boards do not rot in a few years? How to do it? Thank you!

And good health to you!

Do I need to isolate the floor structure from the basement?

Vapor barrier of wooden floor structures is needed if your basement is damp. The definition of “sandy basement” remained not entirely clear, but let us assume: it means that the floor in the basement is a cement-sand mortar screed. Option: the coating is not completed, instead it is only a sand backfill. In itself, this does not mean anything, because the level of humidity depends on many factors: on the water saturation of the soil, the presence of a drainage system, the waterproofing of walls and floors, the efficiency of ventilation, etc. In another basement it will be drier than on the first floor. Vapor barrier is arranged from the direction of steam movement, it is not for nothing that the vapor barrier film is placed from the inside of the room - moisture from the house tends to the outside. If the air in the basement is more humid than on the first floor, a vapor barrier from below will definitely not hurt. If on the ground floor there are rooms with periodically increasing humidity (unheated veranda, bathroom, kitchen) and a wooden floor, it is recommended to make a vapor barrier on both sides to protect the wooden structures from moisture.

How to isolate?

Any material that does not allow water vapor to pass through is suitable: Izospan brand D or B, any other building waterproofing or vapor barrier film, rolled waterproofing, dense greenhouse film, foamed polyethylene foam (at the same time additional insulation), old linoleum, etc. The difference is only in cost and service life. It is likely that the floor structure in your house does not consist of just a layer of 50 mm board, as you indicated. There must be load-bearing beams, possibly additional logs, probably, there is a lower filing, coating, thermal and sound insulation. The heat-insulating material, which strongly absorbs moisture and because of this partially loses its properties, is recommended to be protected from moisture both from below and from above.

Fluffy and expanded materials are the most hygroscopic: mineral stone and glass wool, ecowool, perlite and vermiculite. They have very low water absorption, do not change their structure under the influence of water and do not need additional protection of expanded polystyrene, expanded clay, foam glass, foamed polyethylene and rubber.

A possible variant of the execution of a wooden floor between the basement and the first floor. 2 - vapor barrier protecting the hygroscopic insulation (3) from above, Izospan V, laid on the beams (5). 7 - the bottom layer of vapor barrier, Isospan D, stretched under the bottom lining (6). Please note that under the floor covering (1) it is recommended to arrange a ventilated air gap, the gap between the beams and the floorboard is provided by the counter rail (4)