Chimney from a steel pipe to a brick oven. How to make the right chimney for a stove with your own hands: step by step instructions with diagrams. Pipe material

01.11.2019 Radiators

"Dymar" is a part of the furnace, on which both the efficiency and overall efficiency of the furnace, as well as the safety of its use, largely depend.

Choosing a stove is a complex process that requires a certain level of knowledge. In this article, we will tell you how to properly approach this issue and make the right decision.

Purpose and design features

The chimney performs the function of removing the products of combustion of firewood (or any other fuel) during the burning of the fireplace. In addition to smoke, ash, soot and soot come out through the hole.

A properly made chimney ensures the most efficient operation of the furnace and the safety of its operation.

The issue of arranging for a fireplace should be approached as seriously as possible, because the slightest flaws in its mechanism can significantly reduce the efficiency of the stove and accelerate its wear.

This is poor smoke removal, and as a result, smoke in the room in which the stove is located, excessive soot settling on the walls of the smoker (and therefore creating a blockage), and similar troubles.

When it comes to the fact that without a normal pipe, the fireplace will not realize its potential to the maximum, it means that it is the smoker that provides draft to the fireplace.

This happens for the following reason: the temperature of the combustion products leaving the chimney is very high (sometimes reaching one hundred degrees), which creates natural draft due to the pressure difference between hot and cold air.

The traction force directly depends on the height and diameter of the furnace, as well as on the thickness of its walls: it should not be too thick or too thin.

It is necessary that the smoke does not have time to cool down during the journey through the chimney - in this case, the draft will weaken, and vice versa.

Types and differences

Structurally, there is a division into three main categories. Let's consider each separately.

Indigenous

Not the most popular option, as it takes up a lot of free space in the room. The root smoker is a brick device that has its own foundation and is installed next to the stove.

The application will be appropriate in buildings where several fireplaces are located in one place.

In this case, their smoke channels can be led to one smoker, or in houses built from wood, where it is impossible to make a smoke channel inside a load-bearing wall.

wall

These are chimneys that are built into the load-bearing wall of the room, near which the fireplace is located.

Their use is justified in brick houses, as they have a significant advantage (such mechanisms do not take up the free space of the building).

However, their arrangement is a rather difficult process, requiring design and implementation at the stage of building a house.

Shell-mounted

This is perhaps the most popular, due to its simplicity, option. A mounted chimney is, in fact, a continuation of the chimney of the fireplace itself.

For such chimneys, it is required to use stove insulation, but they are extremely easy to implement and do not require serious material costs.

In addition to the design features of chimneys, smokers can now be made from different materials, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

The main types of materials used in the manufacture of smokers (chimneys):

  • from ferrous metal: along with the cheapest materials, which, due to its cheapness, is widespread, although they do not differ in particular durability and environmental friendliness.
  • brick - this is perhaps one of the most popular types of chimneys. It is reliable, durable, but rather difficult to implement, and should be carried out only by a competent stove-maker: since a lot of factors affect whether a brick chimney will effectively perform its functions - from the degree of hardening of the brick to the perfect accuracy of construction.
  • made of stainless steel: quite simple, but at the same time reliable and effective mechanisms. Stainless steel perfectly removes smoke and soot, as its surface is as smooth as possible. It is heat resistant and not afraid of water. The best option is galvanized.
  • Ceramic: are getting more and more popular lately. This is already a complex modular system, which is manufactured in industrial conditions, and sold in stores in a complete kit, ready for installation.

Nuances of choice

The type of chimney or chimneys to be used is determined in each individual case depending on the structural characteristics of the building, the type and financial capabilities of the owner.

A pipe for a fireplace must be easy to install and meet all safety standards, because it is through the wrong design of the chimney or installation errors that most fires happen.

First of all, you need to determine the diameter.

There is one simple rule that must be strictly adhered to: the diameter should not be less than the diameter of the chimney channel of the fireplace itself, since the height directly affects the traction force, it is necessary to approach its calculation with great responsibility.

The optimal distance is considered to be at least 50 centimeters from the top to the place where it comes from the roof, if it is located on a flat roof.

If the roof is with a strong slope, and the smoker is brought out at a distance of less than 1.5 meters from the parapet or ridge, then it should rise 50 cm above its level.

If the chimney is in the range of 1.5-3 meters from the ridge to the parapet, its mouth should be at the level of the top point of the roof. This is necessary so that the roof does not interfere with the free removal of smoke by air currents.

At the same time, the total height of the structure, from the exit to its upper point, must be at least 5 meters.

Installation nuances

We will talk about installing a tube with a spark arrester, since this option is most common in ordinary homes.

Installing a home appliance from stainless steel (a metal tube for a stove, as already mentioned, is very popular), is a fairly simple process that can be done by anyone with their own hands.

Unlike indigenous, and even more so wall pipes, they must be installed by specialists.

When installing a packed pipe, the following principles should be followed:

  • The built-in pipe for the stove for the house must be at least a two-section structure, because the lower part of the metal structure, due to the heat from the furnace, can “burn out”, and over time it will need to be replaced.
  • It is very important to pay attention to such a moment as the insulation of the tube in the ceiling. Where the unit passes through the roof, a layer of refractory insulation must be installed to minimize the risk of fire due to hot surfaces touching other surfaces. For this reason, the passage of the stove through the ceiling is required to be insulated without fail.

Thermal insulation for devices or, in other words, thermal insulation of a stainless steel or metal chimney is a matter of high relevance.

Due to the thin wall, these products may not provide the necessary thermal insulation properties, which will lead to moisture condensation on its wall, and further deterioration of traction and destruction of the tube itself.

The best option for warming a house is Izovol basalt wool, which wraps pipes for furnaces. This is a non-combustible material that has sufficient flexibility and frost resistance, and at the same time it is environmentally friendly.

Along the perimeter, pipes for furnaces are wrapped with basalt wool, which are reinforced with wire (where the spark arrestor is located).

This operation is repeated until the entire structure is insulated, preferably up to the upper section on which the spark arrester is located.

Installation goes through the following steps:

  1. The first knee is put on the air duct.
  2. The second knee is put on the first.
  3. A refractory strut is made. The correct cutting on the ceiling is made of two layers: 1 - stainless steel sheet, 2 - galvanized box, and all this is fixed with a clamp.
  4. The third knee is first introduced into the attic, through a hole in the ceiling, and then connected to the second section (where the spark arrestor is).
  5. The deflector for the smoker and the spark arrester is put on its upper part. This part of the design serves to enhance traction. Basically, in the industrial production of the deflector, it is connected into one structure.
  6. The pipe on the roof can also end in a head (although sometimes there is a spark arrester) that will protect it from rain.

Installation nuances (video)

Approximate rates

Prices for chimneys (as well as for insulation for them) depend on their size and material. In addition, of course, there is a spread in the price level from manufacturer to manufacturer, but we can talk about the following amounts:

  • the price of a pipe heater for a stove with a diameter of 200 mm is about $ 18 per 1 m;
  • the price for a heater of stainless steel devices with one contour, 0.5 mm thick and 200 mm in diameter - from 10 to 13 dollars per meter;
  • the price of a spark arrester is from $10.

You can buy a metal stove pipe at any major building materials store.

The price of brick pipes depends on the cost of building material and the work of the stove. So, a brick pipe for a metal furnace will cost you about $ 25-30 per linear meter.

Not everyone will be able to fold the oven correctly, because to become a master, you need a wealth of experience. The same applies to pipes for her.

A brick chimney is necessary in such sources of open fire as a fireplace in a private house and stoves in saunas or baths.

Based on the destination and method of installation, pipes are of the following varieties:

  • wall, which are mounted in internal main walls;
  • mounted mounted on the stove itself;
  • suspended, located on the outside of the building;
  • indigenous - the riser is located separately.

The best option is a pipe drawn through the surface of the wall, which is laid during the construction phase. In this case, the furnace must also be installed next to the main wall.

Before proceeding with the construction of a bathhouse and other structures with a stove or fireplace, it is necessary to answer the following questions:

  • How will the pipe be taken out of the building?
  • What kind will it be?

Installation

The length and evenness of the pipe are the main conditions for its operation. The higher and smoother it is, the better the traction in it.

The installation of the furnace must be carried out on a perfectly flat surface, and the installation of the chimney must not depend on various engineering devices or obstacles.

If the construction is carried out after the completion of the main construction, it is necessary to act in the following order:

  1. Determine the location so that it is as flat as possible.
  2. Choose the material for the pipe: stone, metal or a module with ceramics.
  3. Decide how the insulation will be made in the place where the chimney passes.

Unfortunately, such a situation may arise when it is necessary, thereby spoiling the aesthetics of the room.

Material selection

To ensure the fire safety of the building, it is worth choosing one of three materials: brick, steel or concrete.

Brick is a traditional and quite popular material, since expensive bricks of a prestigious brand are used for furnace work.

A pipe made from this material needs annual preventive maintenance. Also, for the installation of bricks, a solution is used that is resistant to combustion products, heat-resistant and plastic. However, no matter how well the masonry is done, the inside of the chimney will be covered with soot and in order to increase the service life, it is necessary to clean it once every six months. This will result in additional costs. If a brick pipe is led through the wall, it looks rather unaesthetic, and soot accumulates on any uneven bend.

Today, pipes made of steel are becoming more and more in demand, the installation of which is much simpler and cheaper. By their design, they are:

  • with a three-layer internal chimney;
  • with single chimney.

Laying

When building a brick pipe that will simply have access to the roof without any obstacles, you should pay attention to modular chimneys.

To complete this task, you will need:

  • trowel for applying the solution;
  • plastic container;
  • drill with a special nozzle for mixing the solution;
  • level;
  • roulette;
  • special fireplace mixture of cement and glue;
  • asbestos sheet 0.3-0.5 cm;
  • prepared modules for the chimney.

Before starting the process, a hole must be made in the roof for the free passage of the chimney.

After that, you need to act in the following sequence:

  1. Mix the solution in the container, according to the instructions in the instructions.
  2. According to the parameters of the module, make an asbestos gasket necessary for insulation.
  3. An asbestos gasket is laid on the installed furnace, on top of which the solution is applied.
  4. Next, the module lies down and is installed using the level.
  5. After that, the next layer of mortar is applied and the module is installed.
  6. As soon as the structure has reached the roof, it is isolated together with the roof.
  7. Next, a system is attached to the chimney that protects the pipe from precipitation.

The installation of refractory stainless steel pipe is much easier if it is fixed on the outer outer surface of the building wall. The main difficulty will be the output through the wall and the isolation process.

Complete with a pipe, special fasteners are sold that allow you to fix it as securely as possible on the wall surface.

If the chimney is installed inside the building, you need to carefully consider the issue of insulation on the roof.

Pipes made of modern materials are much easier to install than brick structures. Moreover, metal and modular products are resistant to acids and fire.

Perhaps everyone knows what chimneys are and what they are for. Those who were more deeply interested in the arrangement of stoves and fireplaces understand how important the right choice of a smoke exhaust system in a house or bath is. This article is devoted to a description of what types of chimneys are their features, advantages and disadvantages.

This is one of the oldest types of chimneys, which is still very popular. They lay a brick chimney made of solid ceramic bricks. The smoke exhaust channel is located in the brickwork.

The advantages of brick chimneys include:

  • resistance to mechanical stress;
  • high heat capacity of the structure, allowing the heated chimney to give off heat for a long time;
  • absolute fire safety subject to compliance with safety requirements.

Note: The disadvantages of brick chimneys are worthy of detailed coverage. Thanks to this, it will be possible to better appreciate the advantages that other types of chimneys have.

Disadvantages of brick chimneys

  1. The rectangular section of the chimney is not a very good solution in terms of draft. In the corners, the flow rate of the flue gases is lower, which reduces the efficiency of removing combustion products from the furnaces.
  2. Irregularities of the inner surface (protrusions and recesses) reduce the rate of passage of gases. Also, soot and condensate easily settle on such a surface. Combustion products of solid fuels or natural gas contain large amounts of sulfur oxides. An odorant is specially added to the gas, providing that very recognizable pungent smell. A feature of the odorant is the high content of sulfur. Sulfur oxides deposited on the walls of the chimney react with water (condensate), forming sulfurous (weak) and sulfuric (very caustic) acid. These acids are the cause of the destruction of bricks and mortar, reducing the strength of the structure.
  3. The large mass of the brick chimney makes it necessary to build a separate foundation for it. Moreover, it is advisable to make the foundation for the stove and chimney before the construction of the building begins.
  4. Complex and time-consuming installation of brick chimneys, which is incomparable with any other type. The work requires a highly skilled mason and takes several days.

Single-circuit modular steel chimneys

It is assembled from several elements. Most of the elements are a piece of steel pipe. However, the design also includes more complex elements - tees, equipped with glasses for collecting condensate.

The material for the chimney elements is acid-resistant heat-resistant stainless steel (stainless steel) with a wall thickness of 0.6-1 mm. Pipes manufactured according to these requirements have a long service life. In practice, different types of stainless steel and even galvanized steel are used. Galvanizing is the worst solution. The protective layer of zinc quickly burns out under the influence of temperature and the unprotected walls of the channel begin to collapse under the influence of water and acids.


Advantages of single-circuit steel chimneys:

  • smooth inner surface that prevents the deposition of soot and condensate;
  • round section, providing good traction and uniform gas flow rate;
  • light weight;
  • simplicity and low labor intensity of installation;
  • sufficiently high resistance to corrosion;
  • maintainability.

Disadvantages of single-circuit steel chimneys:

  • high thermal conductivity leads to rapid cooling of gases and the formation of a large amount of condensate. Pipes require large indents at the points where the chimney passes through the wooden elements of buildings (ceiling, walls, roof).
  • short service life of the chimney - no more than 15 years.

Steel sandwich chimneys

Dual-circuit sandwich chimneys - products from two steel pipes of different diameters, inserted one into the other. The space between the pipes is filled with non-combustible insulation. Thanks to the insulation, sandwich pipes have low thermal conductivity, which provides additional benefits:

  • slow cooling of flue gases and high speed of their passage through the channel;
  • minimal formation of condensate;
  • the possibility of outdoor installation without output through the roof;
  • simplified requirements for installation inside the building and output through the roof.

The disadvantage of this type of chimney is one - the price. They are noticeably more expensive than other types of steel chimneys.

Steel corrugated

This type of chimney is made of a flexible pipe made of steel tape. Such flexible chimneys are used for lining brick smoke channels of a curved shape. These types of chimneys are easy to install and maintain, but their service life is very limited.


Ceramic

This type of chimney appeared in Russia quite recently, but quickly became popular, despite the high price. The smooth surface of the ceramic chimney does not need frequent cleaning. Each element of the ceramic chimney includes:

  • chimney made of special refractory ceramics;
  • a heat-insulating layer of non-combustible material that ensures safe passage through walls and roofs;
  • protective cover made of lightweight cellular concrete.

This type of chimney has collected all the advantages:

  • smooth inner surface;
  • round section and smooth, good traction;
  • excellent thermal insulation and sealing;
  • heat and fire resistance;
  • ease of installation;
  • durability.

The disadvantages of ceramic chimneys include only their high cost. They can be used to remove smoke from any stoves, fireplaces, boilers and columns.

Asbestos-cement

Asbestos-cement pipes are used in the construction of chimneys for heating devices, the flue gases of which have temperatures not exceeding 300 degrees. They are not suitable for conventional ovens. These limitations are caused by the unsatisfactory heat resistance of chrysotile cement.


Asbestos-cement chimney pipes

Advantages of asbestos cement chimneys:

  • light weight (if we take brick chimneys in comparison);
  • round section;
  • simple quick installation;
  • very low price.

Price is the deciding factor here. This is the material that can be taken, as they say, "by the bottle."

Disadvantages of asbestos cement chimneys:

  • low strength;
  • poor heat resistance;
  • lack of thermal insulation;
  • the complexity of the device bends;
  • unreliable connection with rubber couplings;
  • porous wall structure;
  • frequent cleaning of chimneys.

The last point deserves special attention - the ignition of soot in asbestos-cement chimneys is a serious problem. For safety reasons, regular cleaning of such chimneys is necessary. Therefore, the use of this type of chimney has significant limitations.

Polymer

Flexible chimneys made of polymeric materials are used for lining brick or concrete smoke channels. The polymer does not have high heat resistance, so this solution is used only for the removal of not very hot flue gases. Such requirements are met by gas water heaters and boilers with high efficiency. They cannot be used as a chimney for a stove.

Advantages of polymer chimneys:

  • ease of installation;
  • light weight and flexibility;
  • low price.;
  • long service life.

Disadvantages of polymer chimneys:

  • poor resistance to high temperatures;
  • lack of thermal insulation;
  • low strength.

The chimney at first glance seems to be a simple design. In fact, this is a brick pillar with a channel inside for the output of combustion products. In practice, its dimensions and design determine whether the furnace will function at all, since it is the chimney that is responsible for the draft.

Material

The size of the chimney, no doubt, depends on the material from which it is made, and the latter is selected in accordance with the heater and the combustion temperature of the fuel.

A stove in a private house belongs to the category of solid fuel boilers - coal, firewood, which means that the chimney material must be ready for the action of flue gases at a temperature of 500–800 C and a short-term increase in heating to 1000 C. Only heat-resistant materials are suitable for this.

  • Brick - refractory, of course. Withstands a constant temperature up to 900 C, heats up for a long time and gives off heat for a long time, which is an advantage for a chimney laid inside a building. Due to the same property, it is not suitable for low-efficiency and gas boilers.
  • Stainless heat-resistant steel - you need to use a product from this category, despite the higher cost. Firstly, such a brand really withstands heating up to 800 C, and secondly, it is resistant to acids and condensate.
  • Glass - made of refractory glass, it has excellent performance characteristics, but it is difficult to install and has a decent cost. This option is used for fireplaces.
  • Ceramic - designed to operate at temperatures up to 1200 C, resistant to condensate, chemically inert. They would be the most popular option for a chimney in a private house, if not for the higher cost.

The choice of material is also influenced by the nature of the fuel. Brown coal, stone, wood of different breeds have different calorific value. In addition, it emits different amounts of soot, soot and acid anhydrides.

Section shape

The diameter of the chimney is a somewhat arbitrary value, since when building a brick oven, the default chimney is also made of brick. However, it is now more common to place a metal or ceramic pipe inside it to improve its performance.

However, such a decision should not be in a hurry, and here's why.

  • Rectangular section provokes the formation of turbulence. The smoke rises in a spiral, part of it, once in the corners, slows down and forms a separate swirl. This worsens the draft, so for a boiler that needs good draft, this option is not rational.
  • However, for wood-burning stoves and fireplaces in the home, the picture is different. Very good draft is not needed here, and even vice versa: during this additional time, the smoke gives off more heat and the room warms up better and faster. Thus, it is even possible to compensate for the insufficient number of smoke circulations.

For furnaces, a chimney with a square or rectangular section is considered optimal. And to improve its performance, various types of lining are used.

House chimney diameter

What diameter the chimney should be depends on the shape of the section and the power of the furnace. If finished industrial products are used, then, as a rule, special tables are attached to the instructions, which indicate the required cross-sectional area depending on the boiler power and its dimensions. If there is none, use the general recommendations. When installing a wood stove, where the strongest draft is not necessary, the calculations may be approximate.

  • The inner diameter of the chimney determines the area of ​​the firebox. The length and width of the section must be proportional to the length and width of the firebox in the ratio 1:1.5. This also applies to the shape of the section, respectively.

  • The cross-sectional area cannot be less than the blower area - this is a prerequisite.
  • The power of the furnace, other things being equal, also affects the diameter. If the heat transfer of the device is less than 300 kcal / h, the cross-sectional dimensions must be at least 140 * 140 mm.
  • What diameter of the chimney of a private house is needed also depends on the design of the heating chamber. If it is open - fireplaces and stoves with open fireplaces, then it is equipped mainly with round chimneys - good draft is extremely important here. In this case, the diameter is defined differently: as 1: 10 in relation to the area of ​​​​the furnace. In the photo - the device of the chimney.

It must be borne in mind that the inner and outer diameters of the stove chimney are different values. For a metal or ceramic chimney, both parameters are constant. A brick pipe is somewhat more complicated: when passing through the ceiling, it expands, but at the same time its internal dimensions must remain unchanged.

We do not imagine homes without heating. Our concept of comfort unconditionally includes a suitable temperature regime. There is no central heating in a private house, and each owner has a heating problem.

We welcome our regular reader and bring to his attention an article about chimneys for stoves - an absolutely necessary component of any heating system, whether it is a stove, a modern fireplace or a boiler with automatic fuel supply.

Chimney - a vertically located pipe that discharges hot flue gases of the fuel in the heating unit into the atmosphere to a height sufficient to create draft in the duct and disperse toxic combustion products away from windows and ventilation ducts.

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of chimneys is based on the phenomenon of expansion of hot gases, a decrease in their density and, accordingly, the rise of lighter gases upwards.

Flue gases rise upwards, a rarefaction is formed in the furnace and colder air is sucked in - a draft phenomenon occurs.

How is the chimney

The main part of any chimney is a vertical pipe structure. Structurally different from modern prefabricated counterparts from prefabricated modules.

A traditional brick chimney includes the following elements: a neck for connecting to a furnace, a riser with valves, a slope, an otter, a neck (at the point of passage through the roof), a headband, and sometimes a metal cap.

Home-made chimneys made of metal or asbestos cement include pipes, caps, adapters for connecting to the furnace, and insulation.

The most modern types of chimneys are ceramic and made of. The ceramic structure consists of an external expanded clay concrete frame, an internal prefabricated ceramic pipe, and a layer of insulation between them. The ceramic and sandwich structures themselves include the following blocks: straight, for collecting condensate, tees, cleaning modules, transition elements for connecting heating units. An integral part of a modern chimney is a deflector.

Types and designs

The design features of the chimney primarily depend on the material from which they are made.

According to the material of the chimneys are:

  • brick;
  • reinforced concrete (usually industrial);
  • asbestos-cement;
  • of steel;
  • ceramic;
  • three-layer metal - two layers of steel with mineral wool insulation between them.


By design, chimneys are:

  • indigenous - the design has its own foundation;
  • wall, built into the bearing walls of the building;
  • mounted - light pipes are mounted on a vertically located outlet pipe of a boiler or fireplace (and a potbelly stove);
  • often lightweight structures are simply suspended from the supporting structures of the building;
  • coaxial - arranged according to the "pipe in pipe" principle. The most common example is the horizontal gas outlets of gas heating boilers. It is used in devices with a closed combustion chamber and provides maximum safety for residents. Save fuel consumption. Recently, vertical structures of the Shidel system have appeared, taking air for combustion on the roof of the house (just below the head).

Which is better to choose

The choice of a chimney largely depends on the parameters of the installed heating unit (design, temperature, type of fuel used), the degree of readiness of the house (we are modernizing an old house with a stove and a wall pipe, the house is only “in the project” or the supporting structures have already been mounted, or there is already a finish) ; heated volumes.

Features of various types of chimneys are shown in the table:

Table 1

Name Advantages Flaws
brick Robust and high temperature resistant masonry construction, durability depending on the liner material. Difficult installation requiring highly qualified masons; heavy weight, the need for a foundation; long installation time, the need to replace the insert approximately every 10 years. When working with modern boilers and fireplaces, a brick without an insert can collapse in just 10 years. Wall structures can only be mounted during the construction of the house.
Ceramic Service life up to 50 years, smooth inner surface, high installation speed; high acid resistance, good thermal insulation; withstand temperatures up to 550° Expensive option; installation requires some qualification, there is a need for a foundation; fragility
Steel single-layer (and asbestos-cement) Smooth inner surface, light, inexpensive, fast installation, easy repair; resistance to corrosion and condensation Requires insulation; when passing through structures made of combustible materials, large retreats are required; they burn out in 10-15 years, there are no components - during installation you will have to do all the elements yourself. Galvanized will last five years (or less)
Steel type "sandwich" Long service life, smooth inner surface, light weight, quick easy installation, easy repair, high resistance to corrosion and condensation; can be installed / hung outside the building; good thermal insulation Fairly expensive items.

It is not worth using flexible steel corrugation - they burn out very quickly.

Despite the price, it is worth choosing modern ceramic chimneys or "sandwich". If necessary, they can be mounted both in the finished house and outside the house, they are durable, easy to assemble, resistant to high temperatures, well insulated, and have a large assortment of ready-made factory elements.

If you want to use an old wall box from a conventional heating stove, you need to insert a stainless steel insert and insulate it. But perhaps you should choose a sandwich - less hassle.

Do it yourself or order

You can do it yourself some elements for the installation of single-layer pipes or lay out a brick structure (if you have the skills of a qualified bricklayer).


But the installation of prefabricated structures - this will help save a considerable amount from the family budget. You will have to pay a lot for the services of a qualified team - the amount is comparable to the cost of materials. There is a risk of running into unskilled workers.

When deciding whether to do the work yourself, you need to carefully analyze your capabilities:

  • how accessible is the roof;
  • Do you have friends or relatives who can help?
  • do you have a fear of heights;
  • What are your qualifications in performing repair work.

Building regulations

The arrangement of chimneys is determined by the provisions of SNiP 41-01-2003.

The design of the chimney must meet the following regulatory requirements:

  • the minimum height must be at least 5,000 mm or grate;
  • when located on a roof slope at a distance of less than 1.5 m to the ridge - the pipe must be 500 mm higher than the ridge;
  • when located on a roof slope at a distance of 1.5-3 m to the ridge - the pipe must not be lower than the ridge;
  • when located on a roof slope at a distance of more than 3 m to the ridge, the angle between the horizontal and the line passing through the ridge and the top of the pipe should be no more than 10 °;
  • the head should rise above the flat roof to a height of at least 1,000 mm;


  • the maximum length of each horizontal and inclined sections should not exceed 1000 mm, the total length of their projections on the horizontal should not exceed 2000 mm. In the presence of oblique and horizontal sections, it is necessary to lengthen the pipe by the length of the horizontal projections. For ceramics, the presence of horizontal sections is not allowed.

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

The distance from the surface of chimneys made of ceramic, insulated steel and asbestos-cement to combustible structures of the house must be at least 250 mm; for brick chimneys and sandwich pipe structures - at least 130 mm.

It is necessary to protect building structures made of combustible materials with cement or gypsum plaster over a grid of at least 25 mm thick.

If the roof covering can burn (roofing material, shingles, ondulin), or leaves and fluff can accumulate on it, a mesh spark arrestor should be installed on the head.

Remember that the quality of smoke removal depends on the life and health of your loved ones.

Traction force

Factors affecting traction force:

  • pipe height;
  • the state of the surface of the internal channel - the regularity of cleaning from soot, the roughness of the walls;
  • the presence of inclined or horizontal sections. The presence of horizontal and inclined sections is undesirable, since the lengthening of the chimney is undesirable - the gases will cool, the draft will decrease up to tipping over;
  • deflector installation;
  • quality of insulation;
  • air supply to the furnace.


Your safety depends on the traction force, therefore it is necessary to regularly check the presence of traction and take measures to clean the channel from soot, the pipe head from ice.

Making and installing a chimney with your own hands

What materials are better to make

The easiest to install are steel structures. Single-layer steel products require insulation and the manufacture of components - in general, work for pathological workaholics, and here we will not consider their installation.

Installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe is quite simple, the presence of a large number of various elements and components in stores allows you to assemble a device of any configuration.

Drawing and diagrams

Before starting work, determine the dimensions and draw a diagram or drawing - this will help to correctly calculate the required amount of materials and properly organize the work.


Size calculation

The height of the pipe is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003, but should not be lower than 5 m from the grate. The diameter is taken equal to the diameter of the outlet of the heater.

Installation video

Watch our video - it will help you see all the intricacies of the assembly process.

Mounting Features

Installation starts from the stove or fireplace. The first starting element is mounted on the nozzle of the boiler or furnace. This element does not have insulation for technological reasons (alt-free filler melts and sinters into stone). All elements are designed in such a way that one of its ends has a smaller diameter and is inserted one into the other, as into a socket. One of the docking options is to slightly pull out the inner pipe, insert it into another inner pipe. Press down. Then lower the outer pipe with insulation along it, press it down. Fasten the connection with a crimp collar, tighten it with a bolt and nut. All joints must be sealed with sealant.


Then a tee is mounted, modules with a cleaning hatch and a condensate trap are mounted from below. There are designs for installing the lower part of the chimney on the floor.

Then mount the rest of the structure. After a meter, the sandwich is attached to the wall with special brackets. An element with a cleaning hatch should be installed on each floor and in the attic.

It is advisable to connect the elements of the chimney “through condensate” - the pipes are mounted in such a way that the upper one is inserted into the lower one and the condensate cannot seep through the joints, but flows down the walls into the trap.



An element with a gate is mounted under the ceiling.

The passage of the pipe in the ceiling is covered with a galvanized sheet and filled with insulation. The distance to the structures must be at least 130 mm.


The most difficult stage in the installation is the passage of the roof. Mark the hole in the right place on the roof. Make a hole in the roof. A roof sheet is attached from the inside, a roof cutting is installed on the roof. It is selected depending on the angle of the roof. The cutting edges lead under a sheet of roofing material.

If necessary, install extensions. Install deflector.

Common errors and installation problems

The most serious mistake is the lack of a condensate collector and elements with cleaning hatches.

In places where structures pass through ceilings, it is strictly forbidden to install joints of individual elements - leaking hot smoke can cause a fire.

A very significant mistake is the absence of a deflector or at least a cap over the chimney.

Snow and rain should not get inside the pipe - they increase the formation of condensate, frost can block the cross section of the pipe.

Maintenance and cleaning

Any chimney requires regular cleaning of soot. This will avoid fires, reduce traction. Cleaning should be done twice a year.

There are two cleaning methods - mechanical and chemical.


With a chemical fire, special agents are burned in the furnace. They burn at a very high temperature and accelerate the wear of the inner walls of the chimney, so it is better to use mechanical cleaning methods for a sandwich.

Icicles and frost from condensate can freeze on the head - they block the section of the box and reduce draft, which increases the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning for residents.

It is necessary to choose pipes in which the thickness of the outer metal layer is 1 mm (and not 0.5 mm). It is very easy to check - for a product with a thin wall, the wall bends if you squeeze it with your hands.

When installing sandwich structures, it is necessary to use a special sealant for high operating temperatures (automotive sealant with an operating temperature of 500 ° is not suitable).

If the pipe rises above the roof by more than one meter, it should be reinforced with stretch marks.