9969 0 0

How to independently assemble a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe, and is there another alternative

Any good owner who decides to build a greenhouse for himself and having gone through specialized sites on the network, quickly begins to understand that the greenhouse frame from a profile pipe is currently the most reliable and durable option. At one time I went through several options and settled on it. In this article I will talk about the intricacies of creating such a design, as well as tell you about simpler and cheaper models that work successfully for me, which means that you may be interested.

Varieties of designs, or what kind of greenhouse do you need

The price, or rather the cost of construction, is the first thing that interests a novice builder. This approach is not always justified. Of course, there are budget options, I will also mention them, which are inexpensive.

But you need to be prepared for the fact that they will serve many times less. And here you should already choose whether to spend money on repairing an old greenhouse every year or do it once and forget it.

In addition, the architecture and, strange as it may sound, the purpose of greenhouses can be different. It is one thing when you want fresh greens in early spring and quite another when you are going to grow vegetables or, for example, flowers all year round. Plus, as you know, the height of plants can be different, respectively, and the size of the structures must be varied depending on what kind of crop you are going to grow.

1. Perhaps the most common form of greenhouses now is arched structure. In my opinion, this is almost ideal.
   • Firstly, the assembly of such a structure is not particularly difficult;
   • Secondly, such a greenhouse is assembled according to a modular principle, which means that if necessary, it is possible to build up the structure;
   • Thirdly, it is possible to combine tall and short crops in it. And what is important for our homeland, the arched structure is very resistant to winds, plus snow does not hold on sloping roofs. No wonder most production models are made in this interpretation;

1. Shed the design is most often used in residential private homes. This is a wall structure, which, as a rule, is sheathed with double-glazed windows. The thing is quite convenient, because for heating here you can use the heating system at home, you just need to bring it out. It makes sense to build such greenhouses on any side of the house, except for the north;

1. gable buildings are considered classics. In width, such greenhouses can reach 5 m, and the length of some models reaches 40 meters or more. It all depends on the type of heating, with autonomous furnace heating, the length of the structure cannot be more than 15 m, and when using a centralized heating main, the dimensions of the structure can be much larger. The structures themselves are made both freestanding and attached to a residential building;

1. So-called " Dutch greenhouse", in fact, is one of the varieties of the gable model. It differs from the classics only in that the side walls in it are made inclined. This design captures a large area, but it is more difficult to install;

All elongated, elongated structures are usually located from north to south. So the plants will receive the maximum amount of sunlight.
Naturally, there should not be any trees or shady, tall shrubs nearby.

1. I had to deal with another interesting form, this is the so-called pyramidal design. The basis here is a regular square, and the walls are accordingly made in the form of a triangular prism. The owners assured that the plants develop best there, since it was built and oriented according to the principle of the Egyptian pyramids. I do not undertake to categorically state whether this is true or not. But numerous documentaries on the themes of the “obvious improbable” seem to be doing their job.

Assembly of the simplest and most affordable designs

Although this information is indirectly related to the topic of this article, it seems to me that it will be useful for you. The fact is that to this day there are stories about simple and cheap greenhouses on a wooden frame. I went through it.

The price of wooden structures is really acceptable, and if you work confidently with wood, then it will be easy to assemble such a frame with your own hands. But these are all related details.

The worst thing about such greenhouses is that they are not durable. Wood leads, it cracks and cracks. Just think, a relatively thin bar is constantly in open space, under the sun, rain and frost.

It makes no sense to use high-quality impregnations and paints, they are too expensive, and the budget option only partially protects. As a result, quite serious repairs are required every year. Plus, after a maximum of 5 years, a wooden greenhouse becomes completely unusable.

Theoretically, of course, you can build a greenhouse from larch or oak, and even then cover it with yacht varnish. It will stand for a long time and look prestigious. But this option will cost several times more than the construction of a profiled pipe.

PVC frame

Many novice summer residents, in pursuit of cheapness, are trying to make a greenhouse frame from PVC pipes. By itself, polyvinyl chloride is a good material and products made from it are quite durable and reliable. But they have one huge minus, they are tough. In addition, most models are made thin-walled.

PVC products do not "like" when they are bent; in severe frosts, being in a state of tension, they can even crack. PVC is well suited for sewers, cold plumbing, or ventilation ducts.

In the construction industry, they are used as formwork for bored piles. But this does not apply to greenhouses in any way. Therefore, I do not recommend that you contact this material.

Frame made of polypropylene pipe

And here is the frame of the greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes, the option is quite acceptable and deserving of attention. Along with a fairly high strength, polypropylene has good elasticity. The wall here is already much thicker, and most importantly, these pipes can be easily bent, creating arched structures. Plus, having elementary skills and a special soldering iron, you can solder a strong frame for doors or windows from this material.

As you know, polypropylene pipes are for cold and hot water. The difference is that the hot version has additional fiberglass or foil reinforcement.

This subtlety is important when using them for their intended purpose. In our case, there is no difference, so take pipes for cold water, they are cheaper. For reference, cold pipes are marked with a blue stripe, and hot pipes with a red one.

For greens and seasonal vegetables at my dacha, I collect relatively small and fairly light mobile greenhouses from polypropylene. This is the simplest, not expensive, but quite reliable design.

The basis of such a structure is a wooden frame 3x1.5 m. Theoretically, such a frame can be assembled from a 50x50 mm bar, but I'm used to doing everything with a margin, so I took a 100x100 mm square wooden bar. The price difference is small, but the reliability is an order of magnitude higher.

In order for such a rectangle not to warp and keep the correct shape, I connected the beam with scarves (metal isosceles triangles with holes for self-tapping screws). I connected the corners into half a tree, but the neighbor did not bother and in his greenhouse he simply connected them end-to-end, as a result, both options with scarves hold equally well.

As you understand, the frame will be made of polypropylene tubes, in this case, the optimal diameter is 20 mm. Although I have seen greenhouses of the same plan, made of metal and fiberglass reinforcement with a cross section of 10 mm, the cost is the same, so you can choose.

Bent polypropylene arches will be inserted into opposite bars along the long side. To do this, it will be necessary to drill blind holes in the frame for about half the thickness of the beam, in my case 50 mm.

Drilling through is not worth it, the ribs will fail. Arches are installed in increments of about half a meter. Naturally, the diameter of the holes is made the same as for pipes - 20 mm.

Don't forget to chamfer the pipes so they will go in easier. The frame does not need additional fixation with screws, corners or any kind of glue, the ribs will stand firmly anyway. And then, we make a collapsible, temporary, and not a stationary structure.

There is one nuance here. On the market, polypropylene pipes are sold in 4m. With such a length, the frame turns out to be high and not very comfortable.

For a one and a half meter width of the base, it will be necessary to shorten the pipes to 3 m. Or make the base frame half a meter wider, that is, not 3x1.5m, but 3x2m.

Such a mini-greenhouse is covered with polyethylene. It is better to buy a wide canvas, so that you do not have to make joints and overlaps. The film can be fixed with a stapler, nailed with glazing beads, or simply pressed around the perimeter with bricks and lightly sprinkled with soil. I prefer to put in a few bricks so the polyethylene doesn't tear and can be used later.

To assemble with my own hands in the spring, and in the fall to disassemble such a greenhouse, it takes me a maximum of 15-20 minutes. Plus, it does not weigh much, if necessary, together with a neighbor, we can easily transfer our greenhouses anywhere. For the winter, I take everything apart, lubricate the tree with engine oil and hide it in a barn, as for polyethylene and plastic tubes, nothing will happen to them anyway.

As I already mentioned, before deciding on my own to make a frame for a greenhouse from a profile pipe, I experimented with simpler designs. From the same polypropylene pipe I had a high full-fledged greenhouse. Its cost is not high, and the instruction is not much more complicated than the portable version described above.

For a strong fastening of a high structure on the ground, one wooden beam will not be enough. In this case, you will also need to assemble a wooden frame, but not from a bar, but from a wide board, approximately 40x250 mm. The boards are placed vertically and fastened at the corners with metal corners or the same scarves.

In order to prevent your greenhouse from being blown away, pieces of iron reinforcement are hammered into the ground under each tube, along the perimeter of the wooden frame with an interval of 50 - 70 cm. The total length of such a peg is 80 cm, and you need to hammer it into the ground by half. After the pegs are driven in, frame tubes are put on them and additionally fixed on the wooden frame with metal clamps, using self-tapping screws.

The length of one four-meter pipe is not enough to make an arched greenhouse in human height, so each module will have to be assembled from at least 2 sectors. In my version, I took cross fittings, soldered two arcs at the top point and additionally launched a ridge horizontal guide.

But for stability, one upper ridge guide tube is not enough. I didn't want to mess around with soldering intermediate beams through the same fittings, so I took straight tubes and clamped them to the arch frame with clamps. Apart from the ridge, at least 2 horizontal guides are mounted on each side.

As for the arrangement of the end walls, on which the front door and the ventilation window are based, it is of course better to solder them from the same polypropylene pipe and fittings. I saw options when these structures were assembled from wooden bars, it looks, to put it mildly, not very elegant.

Don't be afraid of soldering. You can rent a soldering iron, and believe me, you will master the process in 5 minutes. There is nothing complicated. The necessary nozzles are installed on the tip on both sides, and when the soldering iron is heated, the fitting and tube are put on these nozzles, and after a few seconds they are removed and tightly connected to each other, that's the whole science.

Such a greenhouse can stand for quite a long time, but the whole problem is that only plastic film is suitable for its arrangement. Newfangled polycarbonate is very poorly attached to the polypropylene frame. Sheets of cellular polycarbonate are more rigid and elastic; they will not stick to elastic polypropylene. Actually, that's why I started building a frame for a greenhouse from a profile pipe.

Technique for assembling a frame from profile pipes

Profile metal pipes, according to GOST 13663-86, it is customary to call products of a square, rectangular, oval or mixed configuration. They can be cold-rolled, hot-formed, welded and seamless. But all this information is rather indirect, for a relatively small country greenhouse, as a rule, a square profile of 20x20 mm and a rectangular profile of 20x40 mm are used, the production technology itself is not so important here.

In addition, such pipes can be painted, galvanized or uncoated. This is where you have to choose. I would advise if the assembly will be carried out using welding, take ordinary clean pipes, because the weld, both paint and zinc coating, will burn out in any case, and all joints will have to be repainted. Plus a clean pipe is much cheaper.

In the case when the price does not play too big a role and the assembly will be carried out with the help of bolts and overhead "crabs", you can safely take galvanized material. Only here you can’t be greedy, you should buy only high-quality goods. Zinc coating from good Chinese friends can crack when bent, therefore, the whole point of such protection will be lost.

As for the now fashionable powder coating, the cost of these pipes is quite high, and most importantly, they are not suitable for our purposes. Initially, such a coating was developed for the design of furniture elements, that is, for indoor use. Plus, painted pipes do not "like" when they are bent.

Drawings and design calculation

A good drawing of a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe is already half the battle. Here you need to decide whether it will be an arched, semicircular shape or a standard gable house. For a single-sided option, the calculation is the same as for a double-sided one, only with a division in half along the central vertical.

If we are interested in a stationary frame for a greenhouse from a profile pipe, then initially it needs to be done in full growth, plus 300 - 400 mm of stock. Otherwise, how long it will stand, so much you and all those working in it will remember your savings not with an evil, quiet word.

First, about the calculations of the arched structure. The average normal height of such a greenhouse ranges from 1900 - 2400 mm. We proceed from the fact that the arch is a part, or rather half, of a regular circle.

From the school course, we recall the formula for calculating the circumference L \u003d π * D. The number "π" is a constant value (3.14), and "D" (diameter) is known to be equal to two radii.

In fact, our greenhouse height is a radius. If we assume that it is equal to 2m, then for such a radius the circumference will be equal to L=(3.14*4m)=12.56m.

We divide this value in half and get the length of the curved arch 6.28m. But there is one catch here. The fact is that the standard length of both profiled pipes and sheets of cellular polycarbonate is 6 m, therefore, a piece of 28 cm will have to be sharpened, which already creates problems.

In practice, in order to "fit" in a solid pipe and not create unnecessary problems for yourself, the height of the frame should be 1850 - 1900 mm. The width of such a greenhouse will be 3.7 - 3.8 m, you see, it is quite acceptable.

Now let's take a gable roof. The angle of inclination of the roof varies depending on the snow load as well as the wind load. In most of our great homeland, it ranges from 30º to 45º. The average height of the side walls (before the beginning of the roof) is in the range of 1.7 - 2m.

Now let's find out the height of the roof itself. Let, for example, the width of our greenhouse be 2m, and the slope of the slope 30º. We recall the Pythagorean theorem, the square of the hypotenuse in it is equal to the sum of the squares of the legs.

Our hypotenuse is the length of the slope. One leg is known to us, it is equal to 2m. Now we recall the geometry again, the leg opposite our angle of 30º should be equal to half the hypotenuse.

With these data, you can make an equation: (a \u003d 2m); (v=x); (c=2x). Further (2х)²=2²+х²; 4x²=4+x²; 3x²=4; x²=4:3; hence x=√1.33(3)=1.154m. We learned the length of the hypotenuse, therefore, the opposite leg will be half as much as = 0.58 m. If we take 2 m as the height of the side wall, then the height of the greenhouse along the ridge is 2.58 m.

In addition, in order for rain to fall less on the transparent side walls, the slope must be made with an overlap of 100 to 300 mm. According to our calculation, the length of the slope with an overlap of 300 mm will be equal to 1.45 m.

All these calculations are good if you are building an exclusive version of the design. You can do it easier, to be honest, I took my drawing of the frame of the greenhouse from the profile pipe from the network, there is now enough similar material on the Internet, and in the public domain.

The width of the doorway, as a rule, is 700-800 mm. Ventilation windows do not need to be made too large, 300x500 mm or 500x500 mm are enough, the main thing is that they are on top. If a winter greenhouse is planned, then it is advisable to make a small vestibule near the front door in order to cut off cold air.

Foundation arrangement

The frame for a greenhouse from a profile pipe belongs to light, but capital structures, and a foundation must be made under it. Pile options, such as bored or screw, are not suitable here, since the bottom of the structure must be reliably protected in order to protect the plants from frost on the soil.

Don't worry, you won't need to dig a big pit and equip heavy formwork. In this case, a tape shallowly buried bulk foundation is sufficient.

When I poured my foundation, I dug a trench for one and a half bayonet of a standard shovel. Below, about 5 - 7 cm, a sand and gravel cushion was covered and well compacted. From above, I arranged a small formwork 200 mm high, naturally, the height of the tape itself above the ground also turned out to be 200 mm. Concrete belt width 300 mm.

Remember, a light, shallowly buried foundation must be reinforced. Otherwise, after the first winter, the forces of frost heaving will squeeze it out of the soil and it will crack all over. I knitted the reinforcing cage from a 10 mm rod, and made the intermediate cells, on which the frame actually held, from ordinary wire rod (6 mm steel wire).

In order to have something to hook on to the frame for the greenhouse from the profile pipe, every meter I concreted the anchor bolt, although by and large it was enough to bring out several "tails" of the reinforcement and attach to them.

Pay attention to the angles of the formwork, the reinforcement should not just lie butt. At the corners, you need to take two-meter pieces of reinforcement, bend them at 90º and link them to the main frame. Otherwise, after the winter, the corners will break.

When everything is done, you can start pouring. The first 2 - 3 days after pouring, you will need to cover the monolith with burlap or any other rag and make sure that it is constantly wet. In general, the period of complete setting of concrete according to GOST is 28 days, but from experience, after a couple of weeks, you can remove the formwork and mount the frame.

A few words about pipe bending methods

A profile pipe is a specific thing, you can’t just bend it, the side walls can be deformed, a more subtle approach is needed here. And if you decide to give preference to an arched structure, then there is no way without bending. Apart from the use of special equipment, there are 3 popular ways to bend a profile pipe with your own hands.

To be honest, not all of them are good, but it will not be superfluous to know about them:

1. For the first way you will need at least a grinder and a welding machine, and the skills of the welder must be strong. The point is to make a series of cuts to the entire transverse depth of the pipe with a grinder with a pre-calculated frequency, only the back wall remains intact. The width and frequency of the notches varies depending on the required bending radius, the larger the radius, the wider and more often the notches should be. After that, the pipe is bent until it completely closes between the walls of the notches and these seams are welded. It turns out not very beautiful, but strong enough, plus the sea takes energy and time;

1. Next method pretty dubious. The pipe is first plugged with a wooden plug on one side, after which water is poured into it and plugged with the same plug on the reverse side. Next, it must be exposed to frost, and as soon as the water sets slightly, begin to bend the pipe, leaning on some semicircular template, for example, on a reinforced concrete ring for wells. Personally, I have serious doubts about this method. If you do not calculate the time, the water will freeze and the pipe will at least open, and at the maximum it will break;
2. For the third way you will need clean, sifted and calcined river sand on fire. As in the case of water, a plug is clogged, sand is poured inside and the second plug is closed. You also need to bend based on a rounded template. My neighbor and I tried to bend pipes in this way, the method is certainly working, but there is no need to talk about any bending accuracy. If you need one arch, then it will pass, but if you need a dozen of them, then making them all the same is unlikely.

When building my arched-type greenhouse, I did not fool myself with folk methods and made it easier. Almost any metal base has pipe benders for profile and ordinary pipes.

When the goods were selected, sorted and paid for at the checkout, I found the person responsible for this technique, explained to him what I needed, left the drawings, figuratively speaking, gave “for a bottle” and an hour later my order was ready. The service is inexpensive, and a lot of time and effort is saved.

With bending straight modules of a gable or single slope design, everything is much simpler. This method to some extent resembles the first version of arched bending.

Having decided on the angle of inclination and marking the pipe, you need to cut three triangular sectors out of it with a grinder. After that, the remaining whole back wall is bent and the seams are welded. As shown in the diagram. The main thing here is not to make a mistake with the size of the cut sectors.

Greenhouse assembly

First, we need to weld and fix the starting horizontal pipe around the perimeter of the foundation on the embedded anchors. This is the basis on which everything will be based. I recommend using electric welding for assembly.

The assembly algorithm on bolts and "crabs" is about the same, but you will have to mess around at least three times more. Do not forget to put 2 - 3 layers of roofing material on top of the foundation tape on the tar, such waterproofing will protect the pipe from rotting from below and will serve as an additional seal.

The installation itself begins with the installation of the first vertical module with a door. Both in the gable and in the arched structure, in addition to the lower fixation to the embedded pipe, it is welded to two side, inclined spacers. Otherwise, at the start, he will not hold. Similarly, the opposite, extreme module with a window is installed.

We have the extreme vertical supports, now we can move on to horizontal connections. The ridge beam is welded or screwed first. Further, internal, intermediate vertical modules are alternately installed and welded on the sides and top to the ridge beam. Metal pipes are a strong and reliable thing, you should not install modules too often, as a rule, they are mounted in 1m increments.

The last to install are horizontal ties, which serve not only to increase the strength of the structure, but also to fix sheets of cellular polycarbonate on them. As a rule, a profiled pipe 20x40 mm is taken for load-bearing beams, and a 20x20 mm pipe is used for horizontal ties and other auxiliary stops.

By the way, horizontal connections in a gable structure must be mounted with an indent of about 100 mm from the corners of the frame. You can’t do it back to back, you still have to hang cellular polycarbonate on them.

I would also like to give a couple of tips on buying ready-made factory frames. First of all, remember that the fewer detachable connections, the stronger the structure will be.

It is better that the arcs are solid, and straight gable structures are made up of ready-made welded modules. The minimum wall thickness of the pipe is 1.2 mm. And the maximum distance between the racks is 1m.

Conclusion

Building a greenhouse with your own hands is a completely feasible task that even people with minimal construction skills can handle. However, in order for the structure to turn out to be technologically correct and symmetrical, it is necessary to carry out some calculations even before the start of its construction.

Calculating the amount of material needed and calculating the size of the future building is a rather complicated process that requires utmost care. The reliability of the building and its ease of use will depend on this. In this article, we will consider the basic calculations that need to be carried out before building arched and domed greenhouses from various materials.

Greenhouse calculation

Some summer residents have a question why it is necessary to carry out the calculation of the greenhouse at all, because it is enough just to build a base of the required shape and size, install supports and cover the structure with film or polycarbonate.

In fact, the correct calculation is the key to successful construction. Not only the reliability of the finished structure, but also the financial side of the issue will depend on this. With the right calculation, you can find out exactly what material you need for the construction, and how much you should buy.

There are many services on the Internet that provide an online calculation of all the necessary materials. Such online calculators are really very convenient and save a lot of effort and energy for those who are not confident in their own mathematical knowledge. However, for full confidence in the correctness of the calculation, it is better to check the obtained data by manually calculating. Next, we will tell you how to do it right.

Calculation of material for greenhouses

First of all, the calculation will be needed in order to accurately calculate the required amount of material for construction. This process includes the calculation of materials for the construction of the foundation, the installation of supports and the installation of the coating.

The calculation directly depends on what materials you plan to use for construction. For example, wooden beams are often used for the construction of supports, but a profile pipe is considered a more practical and financially profitable material. It is inexpensive, but quite strong and durable. In addition, the material of the pipe itself is practically unaffected by fungi and mold, so the frame of the building will need a minimum of maintenance.

Also, the calculation should include roofing material: film, glass or polycarbonate. We will consider the calculation of the last type of roofing material, since it is polycarbonate that is considered the most reliable and modern version of the greenhouse coating.

The profile pipe is a product from metal of square, rectangular or oval section. Raw metal pipes are considered the most inexpensive, but galvanized or painted pipe is more suitable for a humid environment. However, if you plan to weld structural elements together, it is better to buy uncoated pipes, since under the influence of welding heat the protective layer will collapse in any case, and the pipe will have to be repainted.

Note: As a rule, pipes of square or rectangular section, 20 x 20 or 20 x 40 mm in size, are used for the construction of structures of protected ground.

If you connect the supports with bolts or other mounting hardware, you can safely buy a galvanized pipe. However, the advantage should be given to the highest quality products, the galvanization of which will not crack over time. If the protective layer is damaged, all the properties of such galvanized pipes are lost, and the frame will begin to rust in a humid greenhouse environment.

Figure 1. Drawings of the frame of a gable and arched greenhouse from a profile pipe

Before starting the calculation of a greenhouse from a profile pipe, you should decide on the type of construction. The traditional option is considered to be a "house" - a building with a gable roof, but arched and domed structures are considered more modern. Their advantage is that snow does not accumulate on the roof, which can damage the coating, and there is enough space inside for caring for plants (Figure 1).

Note: Regardless of the chosen type of construction, it is better to make the height of the building immediately a little more than the height of human growth. The lower design will certainly save you some money, but it will not be very comfortable to work in a half-bent state.

Here are examples of calculations for the most popular types of greenhouses - gable and arched:

1. Arched: usually has a height of about 1900-2400 mm. Based on this, we can conclude that the arch is half a full circle. Accordingly, we need to calculate the circumference using the formula L \u003d p * D. The number p (Pi) is a constant value, which is equal to 3.14, and D (diameter) is equal to two radii. In our case, the height of the structure is the radius. Assume that the height of the building will be two meters. Accordingly, the circumference L will be equal to 3.14 * 4, or 12.56 m. This indicator must be divided in half. The result will be an indicator of 6.28 m, which will correspond to the length of the curved arch. In this case, there is only one problem: the standard length of the profile pipe is 6 meters, so you will have to somehow attach a small piece to it. To simplify your task, it is better to make a height of about 1850-1900 mm. In this case, the length of one curved arch will be just 6 meters.
2. Gable: more difficult to calculate. First of all, it is necessary to take into account the angle of inclination of the roof, which varies depending on the snow and wind load. The standard is considered to be 30-45 degrees, and the optimal height of a building with a gable roof is 170-200 cm. To find out the height of the roof, you need to use the Pythagorean theorem, according to which the square of the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the squares of the legs. Let's assume that the width of our greenhouse will be 2 meters, and the angle of the roof will be 30 degrees. In this case, the length of the slope will be considered the hypotenuse, and the legs are an indicator of the width of the building. Using the same Pythagorean theorem, we find out that the leg opposite the angle of 30 degrees should be equal to half the hypotenuse. Compiling a quadratic equation, it turns out that the length of the hypotenuse is 1.154 m, respectively, the length of the leg is 0.58 m. Taking into account that the height of the wall is two meters, we can conclude that the height of the same structure along the ridge is 2.58 meters.

Using these calculations, you can calculate the required number of supports and arches. At the same time, it is necessary to make a reserve, since in addition in each greenhouse there are doors and vents, which are also made from a profile pipe.

Polycarbonate greenhouse

Polycarbonate is a roofing material that allows enough light to pass through for the normal development of the plant, but at the same time has increased strength. That is why it is most often used instead of fragile glass or short-lived film.

Figure 2. Drawings of buildings made of polycarbonate

As in the case of a profile pipe for building a frame, it is necessary to calculate the number of polycarbonate sheets needed to cover the frame (Figure 2). First of all, the thickness of the sheets should be taken into account. This indicator depends on the season of use of the building. If you plan to carry out work in it during the warm season, that is, from spring to autumn, there will be enough sheets with a thickness of 5-10 mm. If you plan to build a year-round heated greenhouse, it is better to give preference to sheets with a minimum thickness of 15 mm.

There are a number of factors that must be taken into account when making calculations:

1. Sheets size: you need to draw up a drawing of the future building in advance and plan the cutting of the roofing material so that the amount of waste is minimal.
2. Properties of polycarbonate: Under the influence of heat, this material tends to expand. This feature must be taken into account when calculating the number of sheets and their cutting.
3. Flexibility: despite the fact that polycarbonate bends easily, it is quite difficult for some models of the material to give the necessary shape. Therefore, when buying, be sure to ask if it is possible to bend the sheet. This requirement plays a key role in covering arched and domed models.

It should also be borne in mind that for fixing polycarbonate you will need special fittings: end profiles, perforated tapes and special self-tapping screws.

The calculation of the required amount of polycarbonate for coating is quite simple. The standard sheet width is 2.1 meters. In this case, the stiffeners are located along the sheet, and during installation, its edge must be fixed on supports made of a metal profile. In addition, it must be remembered that the standard distance between the support posts is 0.7 or 1.05 meters, and the sheets are fastened end-to-end using special connecting strips and self-tapping screws with thermal washers. Knowing the width of the sheet and the number of racks in your building, you can easily calculate the required amount of roofing material.

Arc calculation

You will need this type of calculation if you plan to build an arched greenhouse (Figure 3).

Note: The key role in the calculations is played by the total height of the building and the standard size of polycarbonate sheets.

A standard polycarbonate sheet is 2.1 meters wide and 6 meters long. Accordingly, it is the length that will be the decisive factor in determining the height of the building.

Figure 3. Arc calculation example

In order to give the sheet an arcuate shape, it is laid across the frame. In this case, the width of the entire structure will be about 3.80 meters, and the radius of the semicircle will be 1.90 meters. If we focus on the geometric formulas and calculations given in the previous sections, we can conclude that the height of the building will be equal to the radius, that is, it will be 1.90 meters. Unfortunately, this height of the greenhouse is not suitable for everyone, therefore, to increase the height, it is recommended to equip a basement for construction.

Calculation of the dimensions of greenhouses of different types

There are several types of greenhouses that are in particularly high demand. The first is considered an arched structure, which is easy to build with your own hands. In addition, it is easy to work in such a design, and thanks to the design features of the building, light and heat are optimally distributed inside and the plants develop more evenly.

The second popular type of greenhouse is domed. This is a relatively new type of building, but due to its unusual appearance, it is widely popular with those who not only want to grow vegetables, berries and herbs with their own hands, but also make such a building an original decoration of the site.

Dome

A dome greenhouse is also called a geodome. This is a building that looks like a large hemisphere. To build it, you will need many triangular and hexagonal frame elements that are interconnected (Figure 4).

Note: Almost any material can be used to cover the domed building. An inexpensive design option is made of wood and film, and a more modern, durable and reliable option is considered to be a profile pipe and polycarbonate.

Since the dome greenhouse differs significantly from other greenhouse structures, its calculation should also be carried out taking into account such features.

First of all, you will need certain materials for construction. The frame can be made from a profile pipe or wooden beams, and any available material (glass, film or polycarbonate) can be used as a coating. You will also need special petal connectors that connect the triangular elements of the frame to each other, and accessories (self-tapping screws, nuts, bolts, awnings and handles), which will be needed to fasten the roofing material and make doors and vents.

Figure 4. Drawings and calculations required for the construction of a domed greenhouse

The main calculation that will be needed when building a dome model is to determine the area of ​​a spherical dome. Fortunately, there are special online geodetic calculators on the Internet that will help not only calculate the volume of the dome, but also the number of frame elements needed for its construction. You just need to enter the desired diameter and height of the building, and the system will automatically calculate all the necessary data. For example, if the greenhouse is 4 meters in diameter and 2 meters high, you will need 35 and 30 triangles with an edge length of 1.23 and 1.09 meters, respectively.

The calculation can also be carried out manually using the formula S \u003d 2P * r2, and a greenhouse in which the height is half the diameter is considered ideal.

Arched

The arched structure is considered the simplest and most convenient, and even beginners with minimal knowledge in the construction business can build it. The main thing is to correctly calculate the length of the arc, the height and width of the building (Figure 5).

To determine the width, first of all, determine how many beds will be in it. The optimal width is 1 meter, and the passages between the beds should be about 50 cm.

Figure 5. An example of calculating materials for an arched greenhouse

To simplify the calculation process, suppose that we will build a small greenhouse, only 1 meter wide. In this case, the width of the structure is equal to the diameter of half the arc, and the height of the building will be equal to the radius. In formula form, it will look like this: R \u003d D / 2 \u003d 1m / 2 \u003d 0.5 m. Next, you need to calculate the length of the arc, which is half a full circle with a diameter of 1 meter. A similar calculation is carried out according to the formula: L \u003d 0.5x * pD \u003d 1.57 m.

Greenhouse lighting calculation

In addition to the direct construction of the greenhouse, certain calculations are also required for its internal arrangement. Since light and heat play a key role in growing plants in open ground, we will look at how to correctly calculate the lighting and heating of greenhouse structures.

The importance of lighting calculation is explained by the fact that plants require a certain amount of light for full development. If the light is too dim, the cultures simply will not grow, and if it is too bright, they may burn out.

When calculating the lighting, they are guided by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the power of the lamps that are used for illumination. For example, a lamp with a power of 150 W can illuminate an area of ​​​​60 * 60 cm, which is great for small home greenhouses. In industrial structures, as a rule, lamps with a power of 1000 W are used, since they are capable of illuminating an area of ​​​​250 * 250 cm. The calculations necessary for installing greenhouse lighting are shown in Table 1.

Table 1. Calculation of the power of lighting devices for illuminating structures of protected ground

Knowing the area of ​​the greenhouse, you can calculate the required number of lamps of a certain power. At the same time, in small buildings it is not recommended to use too powerful lighting devices, since plants can burn out from them. In addition, it should be borne in mind that the lamps must be at a certain distance from the plants, and the higher the power of the lamp, the greater the distance should be. Therefore, it is not recommended to use powerful lamps in home greenhouses, from which plants can simply burn out, and it is necessary to gradually determine the optimal distance from the lamp to the beds: first, hang the lighting fixtures to the maximum height, and if signs of lack of light are found, the distance can be reduced.

Calculation of greenhouse heating

Proper greenhouse heating plays an important role in year-round growing plants. There are quite a few ways to heat a greenhouse: steam, water, electric and infrared. In most cases, heating involves the installation of a certain number of radiators. It is to determine their number that calculations will be needed.

In general, we can say that the heating system must have a certain power, which will not only provide the plants with the necessary amount of heat, but also compensate for heat loss.

Note: The total heat output level consists of the summed output of the individual radiators.

To calculate the required number of heating devices, the following factors should be taken into account:

1. Glazing area of ​​the building: the lower this figure, the less heat will be lost during heating.
2. The ratio of temperatures inside and outside: the greater the temperature difference, the greater the heat loss. This indicator is especially important for winter heating.
3. Thermal conductivity level: this indicator depends on the coating material. The lower its thermal conductivity, the slower the heat will go outside.
4. Sealing design: if the building has gaps through which cold air can enter, more heat will be lost.

Taking into account all these indicators, and multiplying them, you can get the required power of one radiator, and depending on the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe greenhouse, calculate the required number of heaters.

In more detail, the necessary calculations and their application in practice are shown in the video.

A greenhouse is a practical design that allows you to have fresh vegetables or fruits from early spring to late autumn. It is located in the garden, not far from the house. Install greenhouses and in the country. If you build it in large sizes, then it can not only be a source of free vitamins, but also bring additional income from the sale of vegetables or flowers. To make a greenhouse with your own hands, drawings and nuances must be thought out in advance. The optimal material would be a profile pipe 20 x 40 mm. Details about the designs and stages of creation are described below.

Those who wish to weld a greenhouse from a profile pipe with their own hands will need to prepare several materials. Namely:

• metal profile 20 x 40 mm or close to these parameters, with a wall thickness of 1.2 mm (the number of meters depends on the future dimensions of the structure);
• corner with shelf 40mm;
• canopies 4 pcs;
• anchor with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 120 mm;
• reinforcement 10-12 mm for reinforcing the base;
• cement and sand;
• formwork boards;
• polycarbonate sheets and thermal washers for their fastening.

All work will be done independently. On this page there is a diagram of various designs and videos on creating greenhouses. Of the tools you will need: a welding machine, a grinder, a pipe bender, a drill, an adjustable wrench, a shovel, a hammer. The process is performed in the sequence described in this article.

Foundation

In order for the greenhouse to stand firmly and not sag under the weight of the metal, it is necessary to create a reliable foundation. It can be a linear foundation with a reinforced structure inside. Even at this stage, you need to decide on the size of the future greenhouse. If it is made only for the needs of the family, then the “classic” option is 3 x 4 m. In the case of a large family, you can make a structure of 3 x 6 or 3 x 8 m. Since the length of the profile pipe is standard - 6 meters, the choice of size should be in favor an even number to make it easier to divide the material and cut. When the dimensions are determined, and your drawing is drawn up, you can get down to business.

Digs a trench 300 mm wide and 500 - 700 mm deep. Formwork is assembled from the boards, which will hold the walls of the foundation. A frame of reinforcement is laid in it, which is knitted with wire into a box. Gravel and gravel are added to the solution of cement and sand. All this is poured and left for ten days to compact and harden.

The lower perimeter of the greenhouse is superimposed on the foundation, from which the entire structure will line up. The profile pipe is connected by one tack at each corner, after which the equality of the diagonals is checked. You will need a long roll. When the parameters are set exactly, you can put a second tack on each corner and scald these joints "cross over" to avoid deformation of the structure and failure of dimensions.

When the lower perimeter is ready, you need to fix it on a concrete base. For this, segments of 50 mm wide are cut from the corner, in which a hole of 11 mm is drilled. The whole side of the corner is welded to the side of the metal profile so that the hole is located above the foundation. Fixation is made with an anchor bolt. The distance between fasteners is 1300 mm.

Drawings and shape of the greenhouse

As you can see in the pictures, a do-it-yourself greenhouse from a metal profile, the drawings of which are given on this page, has a variety of options in terms of execution. Depending on the selected type of construction, the amount of material is determined.

Greenhouses can be with even racks of 2500 mm and a straight roof. It resembles a garage, but with transparent walls. This design will be the easiest to install. More complex options are straight 2000 mm racks and a triangular (gable) roof. The most difficult will be to create an arched greenhouse. Here, the height of the racks depends on personal preference and the varieties of vegetables grown. The higher the design, the easier it is to regulate the temperature. If it's cold, then this will allow you to collect heat. When it is very hot, you can open a ventilation window and remove warm air without overcooling the plants. The minimum height at the top point must be 2500 mm. Arched ceiling can start from racks of 300 mm. But there are options with racks of 1300 mm.

Installation of racks and jumpers

The walls of the greenhouse are formed by racks welded to the base. This joint should be made around the entire perimeter of the attached profile, because it will be heavily loaded by the wind. Racks are welded in the corners and every 1000 mm from the previous one.

To strengthen the metal structure, connecting elements are needed that will connect the racks along the entire height to each other. Such jumpers are made of meter pieces of the profile. But strips of metal with a wall thickness of 1.5 - 2 mm and a width of 30 mm are also suitable. For a reliable frame, they are welded every 1000 mm parallel to the base to the top of the roof. The strips must be welded to the outer corners of the profile. Later, it will be convenient to attach polycarbonate to them.

About the roof

A flat roof is mounted as one of the sides of the greenhouse:

• the main beams of the profile 20 x 40 mm are welded every 1000 mm (this may be a continuation of the line of the vertical rack);
• crossbars are attached from meter-long scraps or strips of metal;
• polycarbonate is fixed on thermal washers.

In the case of a triangular roof, two identical isosceles triangles are welded, at the upper corners of which a connecting beam is laid. The stiffeners are welded to the upper perimeter of the box and this beam.

For an arched roof, it is necessary to make a fixture for profile bending. The design consists of two rollers connected by a chain drive and driven by a crank. On top there is a third roller that presses the profile due to the torsion of the screw. The process goes like this:

1. The pipe is driven end into the fixture.
2. The screw presses the pressure roller a few turns. Since the distance between the lower rollers is about 500 mm, it will not be possible to bend strongly immediately.
3. By rotating the knob, the pipe is pulled along its entire length, taking on an arcuate shape.
4. To obtain an arch of the desired circle, this operation is repeated several times, periodically tightening the pressure roller.

For a greenhouse 3 m wide, you will need a 4.7 m pipe, which, after rolling in the device, will take on a perfectly semicircular shape. So that the arches do not straighten out later, a screed is welded between the lower edges. This will provide rigidity and strength. Jumpers are also superimposed between the arches, as well as on the walls.

Doors and window

Doors are made to enter the greenhouse. Often they are installed on the end in the middle or offset. For installation, you will need two racks that will act as a boat. According to the internal dimensions, the door frame is assembled, observing gaps along the edges of 3-5 mm. It is not necessary to cook the threshold in the greenhouse. Only the upper jumper is attached between the posts above the door. To stiffen the frame, you will need one vertical rail and two transverse ones. Sheds are placed on the side that is convenient for the operation and watering of the future greenhouse.

At the top of the roof, it is advisable to make a window for ventilation and temperature control. Most greenhouses, when done correctly, hold heat well, so there is no problem with hypothermia. But when the sun is very hot during the day, the temperature can become dangerous for young plants. To ensure the release of hot air, you need to open the window. Its dimensions are arbitrary, and depend on the shape and size of the roof. A frame of 500 x 300 mm and two canopies are enough, which will allow you to quickly ventilate the greenhouse. If the total height of the metal structure is large, then for convenient opening of the window, it is necessary to provide a mechanism (an extension that unlocks the deadbolt).

Since a certain humidity is maintained in the greenhouse, the profile pipe will quickly corrode. To prevent this, the seams must be cleaned of slag and the entire metal structure must be painted with putty or oil paint. After the coating has dried, you can proceed to the final stage - fixing the polycarbonate. It is fixed on thermal washers so that the material does not tear during thermal expansion.

A home-made frame for a greenhouse made of a profile pipe has a lot of advantages over a finished structure, not to mention savings on its purchase, a greenhouse made of profiles is reliable, a design feature eliminates accumulations of snow on the roof, and a strong frame allows you to mount lighting and heating in the building.

A profile pipe is a pipe that has a square or rectangular section. Manufacturers offer cold-rolled and hot-rolled pipes, solid and welded. There are no increased requirements for the profile for the manufacture of the greenhouse frame, so you can purchase those pipes that are cheaper.

Since the greenhouse does not involve large mechanical loads, and the project must reasonably combine the quality characteristics and the cost of the entire project, a small profile should be chosen for the frame.

For the construction of a greenhouse frame, a profile with sections of 2 * 2 cm and 2 * 4 cm will be optimal. Rectangular pipes are used on load-bearing structures, square pipes are used for the construction of transverse lintels and oblique stops (if they are provided for by the project).

Manufacturers offer pipes of standard lengths of 3, 6 and 12 m running. When drawing up a project, this circumstance should be taken into account and expect to use a profile without trimming.

Since the main threat to metal, which is not protected from the damaging effects of atmospheric moisture, is rust, a profile pipe with anti-corrosion galvanizing or special spraying would be an ideal choice for building a greenhouse. Here, additional protection is required only at the joints.

Note! For reasons of minimizing the cost of building a greenhouse, pipes for the frame can be made of simple steel, without anti-corrosion factory treatment. To protect the finished structure from corrosion, it is enough to clean the metal from rust, prime and paint.

Advantages and disadvantages of profiles for the manufacture of greenhouses

Manufacturers offer ready-made greenhouses of any size and shape. However, building such a structure on your own is both interesting and profitable.

Greenhouses from a profile pipe are more durable. They are heavy, which means they resist winds well.

When choosing a material for a greenhouse frame, based on calculations and drawings, it is worth stopping at a profile pipe. Videos about its characteristics indicate that this is an excellent solution for making greenhouses. Moreover, it is easy to do it yourself.

Advantages of using a profile pipe

Comparing the profile pipe with other possible materials for the manufacture of the frame, we can distinguish its features and advantages:

• durability. As you know, a wooden beam from the humidity inherent in a greenhouse will quickly rot. Even if it is treated with an antiseptic, it will not prolong its service. Do not forget about shrinkage, the natural deformation of the tree, because of which the frame will “skew”. The aluminum pipe can be additionally treated with an anti-corrosion compound or simply painted.
• More coverage options. It is permissible to use polycarbonate, film, glass. In this case, the first will be the best combination, since both have reliability and a long service life.
• ease of fastening. Parts are easy to weld, and at any angle. And such difficulties are possible if you stop at a metal-plastic pipe. If polycarbonate is chosen for the cover, no additional linings are needed.
• easy to assemble by yourself. The profile pipe can be bent, cut into the desired size of the part and fastened at any angle.
• the ability to make a greenhouse of any shape.

Having decided to use a profile, it is necessary to determine a place for a greenhouse on the site in order to understand what size it should be. After that, you should work according to the algorithm:

1. Choose the shape and type of greenhouse.
2. Draw a diagram or drawing.
3. Calculate the quantity and type of materials needed.
4. Start assembly.

Drawing - what to consider

When drawing a drawing, it must be taken into account that the profile pipe is usually implemented in standard sizes: 3, 4, 6, 12 m. Having specified this moment with the seller, it is necessary to build on it. This will save on material. More precisely, reduce the number of scraps and surpluses. For example, you can make a greenhouse 6 m long and 4 m wide. By choosing a height of 2 m, you can cut the pipe without excess and for vertical racks.

Attention! The thickness of the metal and the inner diameter play a significant role. For racks and main parts, it is better to choose 20 * 40 mm, and for connecting - 20 * 20 mm.

The drawing will be formed from the following frame components:

• base;
• vertical racks;
• top harness;
• roof;
• door, windows;
• additional reinforcements (struts).

In the drawing, it is necessary to take into account at what distance vertical racks will need to be placed. According to the standards, it is recommended to select a parameter of 1 m. If it is planned to cover it with a film, it is permissible to reduce it to 60 cm. This will reduce the load on the material and extend its service life.

If it becomes necessary to leave a greater distance, for example, when drawing the front part, it will be necessary to additionally strengthen the pipes. This can be done by inserting a pipe diagonally between the vertical struts.

The roof frame is formed according to standard building technology, so the drawing will need to reflect:

• two equal beams from each wall at a distance equal to the gap between the uprights;
• beams on each slope will need to be connected to each other in the plane of the slope;
• connect opposite beams. It turns out a kind of "farm".

When drawing up a drawing, it is necessary to take into account future polycarbonate joints.

The approach will be somewhat different if the greenhouse is arched. In view of the need to bend the pipe at the desired angle, it is necessary to clearly understand what height will be obtained at the highest point, so as not to waste space in vain or so that it is sufficient for caring for plants. For example, to get a height of about 2 m in the center of the greenhouse, you need a profile of 12 m (or two 6 m each, connected in the center). They need to be installed at a distance of about 4 m (the width of the greenhouse). The number of arcs should be drawn based on the option for sheathing and the expected load. On average, a distance of 0.6 - 1 m will be enough.

Each pair of arcs will be connected to each other, and a profile will be required on each side to secure the structure. On the gables, taking into account the door and windows, you also need to draw additional spacers.

Do not forget that the profile pipe can be cut into any parts and folded into the required structure. If desired, for example, you can make a triangular, shed, even a spherical greenhouse.

Work instructions

Before assembling the greenhouse, you need to prepare the foundation - the foundation. At your discretion, it can be poured with concrete, laid out of brick, use a rail or another option. Since the structure will not be heavy, it is enough to fill the foundation by 20-30 cm. Anchors or embedded parts can be immediately laid in concrete in several places, to which the frame is subsequently welded. This will create a solid foundation.

1. Cut the profile of the required length into vertical posts.
2. Weld all vertical posts according to the dimensions in the drawing, setting them vertically in level.
3. Install and fix the upper stroke (pipe on top of all racks).
4. Measure and cut the connecting parts between the risers.
5. Connect the racks in the marked places with transverse crossbars.
6. Weld the "beams" on the roof, connect them with crossbars.
7. Separately assemble the door, strengthen it in the right place.

This is not the only possible implementation. Sometimes it's easier to assemble parts piece by piece on a flat, horizontal surface and set them in place with larger pieces. For example, each side can be welded on the ground. To do this, you will need to make a large quadrangle, inside which to weld the crossbars and fix them transversely. To simplify the work, it is better to cook the parts in small "portions", in sections of 2-3 m.

Attention! When assembling on the ground, you need to choose a flat surface so that the parts do not skew. Periodically, it is worth trying on the design for a future greenhouse, so as not to be mistaken in size.

Likewise with the roof. "Slopes" can be made in the form of rectangles and fixed only at the time of installation between them. The choice of method in this situation depends on the number of people performing the installation. Doors and vents can be welded directly onto the necessary parts.

Advice. If a long pipe is cut in several places on one side, it is possible to bend the profile in such a way that it immediately turns out the construction of racks with a roof (pentagonal part). This will save some material and time.

Arched greenhouse - features

To make an arched greenhouse from a profile, you will need to have a pipe bender. This is a special tool with which the metal can be bent at any angle, getting a smooth transition. If it is not available, you need to work a little:

1. Cut the pipe to the required length.
2. Make small cuts on one side.
3. Bend the profile to the desired radius.

Advice. The more often you cut, the easier the pipe will bend and the smoother the bend will be.

In addition, there are folk methods for bending. One involves calcining the pipe with sand. The calcined sand must be poured inward, compacted tightly, plugging both exits with chops. As experts confirm, with such a filling, you can bend the pipe with your hands, without additional devices.

Arcs from a profile pipe can be made with a pipe bender

Finished arcs will need to be fixed according to the instructions:

1. Install the front arc on the base, level vertically, weld.
2. Install and attach two vertical posts on the gable, which will be a box for installing the door.
3. Mount the next arch in the same way.
4. Fix the arches between each other on the sides with a detail of the desired size.
5. Install all arcs in the same way.
6. Lay a pipe along the upper part, weld to each arc.
7. If the design is not reliable enough, make additional fasteners on the sides.

Attention! It is better to start the assembly from two opposite sides so that the structure is stronger.

Assemble doors and vents according to the drawn scheme and weld to the gable.

The last stage of assembly will be polycarbonate fasteners. If you initially take into account its size when drawing a diagram, the amount of surplus can be significantly reduced. When installing, you need to rely on the basic tips.