In terms of electrical installation, wooden buildings are the most complex objects. We have prepared for you a set of rules for wiring in a wooden house, which discusses in detail the issues regarding the choice of materials and cable laying systems, as well as the installation of installation products.

1. Wiring in strict accordance with regulations

The organization of the electrical network in a wooden house is inferior in complexity only to buildings on a fixed polystyrene foam formwork. Laying on combustible bases is allowed only in an open way or with one hundred percent localization of the conductor inside the protective sheath.

This requirement is not so strict for frame internal partitions with non-combustible filler. In the most correct version, the passage of the cable through the racks of the frame is accompanied by the sleeve of the latter; in practice, most often the conductor is dressed completely in a corrugation or a metal hose, ensuring replacement.

Open laying is also a good solution. There are a number of fittings and installation techniques that make open wiring aesthetically acceptable and even add some color to the interior. In addition to plastic cable channels, it is possible to lay the PV-1 wire wound on ceramic insulators and use non-recessed housing installation fittings. In cases of hidden installation, non-combustible cable brands are used: VVGng or KGng.

Due to the complexity of the installation, cable routing along the walls should be kept to a minimum. But for this you need to thoroughly think over the scheme of laying cable lines.

2. Wiring diagram for walls and ceiling

In the most acceptable version of the electrical network around the house, each electrical point is connected in one straight line with a frame floor, ceiling or draft ceiling, covered with a suspended or tension coating. All the main wiring is carried out along the technological cavity, hidden from view, although more often the lines simply stretch one by one to the group shield. Naturally, the bulk of sockets and switches should be placed on internal walls, and on enclosing walls - only if necessary.

A reasonable solution would be to run the lighting wiring from the switches to the ceiling, and lead the wires for connecting sockets down to the floor. Due to their low load, the lighting network lines can be organized using junction boxes that are not accessible for maintenance. It is enough to bring the power line from the circuit breaker to such a box, and from it to lower the switching wire to the key and along the power line to each lighting group.

Lines of sockets and general-purpose groups can be combined into so-called garlands. It is important that no more than two wires are fixed on each terminal clamp of the sockets. Otherwise, each socket and group are connected in hidden junction boxes, and lines with a particularly high load from household appliances and heaters follow to the group shield without breaking.

It is recommended to cover the loops that gather on the wall at the group shield with a decorative casing. When laying cables in groups, it is also recommended to separate the base with a non-combustible substrate, for example, a piece of drywall.

3. Localization of conductors and branches

For some reason, exposed wiring may not be acceptable. In this case, the task becomes much more complicated, despite the fact that the part of the wiring laid along the walls is only 15-20% of the total length of the lines.

The possibility of hidden laying should be laid at the stage of pre-assembly of the log house. According to the internal power supply plan, technological channels for the cable are made in the walls as they are laid. For this, either electric chisels or core drills are used. The approximate width of the channel is 30-50 mm.

Outlets are drilled in the section of the frame system of the floor or ceilings. The installation of electrical fittings is possible by the recessed method, for this the channel is found with a probe and a hole is drilled with a core drill 60-80 mm in the beam array. Mounting boxes for sockets and switches should be made of steel, preferably with a fiberglass insert.

Pipe sections laid inside the walls must be localized from the environment. A smooth pipe is used for this: metal with a wall thickness of 2.5 mm or steel - from 1.2 mm. These values ​​are indicative, a more accurate calculation requires taking into account the load and voltage on the line, as well as the type and number of conductors inside the sheath.

For branching power lines hidden in the cavities of frame structures, it is recommended to use metal boxes. For indoor installation, protection against wood dust with a degree of at least 3 is desirable, moisture protection is not taken into account. The input of the sheaths of cable lines should be flared, or equipped with a restrictive ring or nut that does not allow separation.

4. Safety devices

Wiring in a wooden house can be complicated by the peculiarities of the arrangement of group and switchboards. The difference is observed both in the method of mounting the cases, and in the selection of protective equipment.

Installation of the body of electrical panels must be carried out on a non-combustible base. Therefore, it is recommended to upholster the surface with tin under the central shields with ASU, and when installing group shields, use linings made of textolite or fiberglass.

It is convenient to connect group shields with ceiling and floor by cable channel, in which usually 3-4 lines are laid for each room. It is not recommended to place shields close to the ceiling or floor.

Circuit breakers are selected according to the permissible continuous current for the cable on the outgoing line, the choice is always made in the direction of a lower rating. Equipment that does not have internal short-circuit protection, as well as lines with a fixed maximum load (ovens, air conditioners) are connected through a circuit breaker with a rating for power consumption and a low delay in response to overload (characteristics B and A).

In wooden houses, it is customary to lay wiring in a three-wire circuit, where the protective conductor is not connected to zero. For this reason, the installation of differential protection against electric shock may be accompanied by false trips. But a fire-fighting type diffuser that monitors insulation leaks will be very useful.

5. Installation of installation products and fittings

At the final stage, the installation of fine electrics is carried out. This is most simply done using non-recessed fittings. It is easy enough to fasten it to a wooden wall with a pair of self-tapping screws, having previously inserted it into the case and connected the wires.

Much more time and effort is spent on the installation of hidden (recessed) fittings. For a tight fit of the frames, a flat surface is required, so the logs are pre-turned with a planer. Next, a hole is made connecting the surface with a hidden channel. It is used as a centering when drilling the installation niche with a hole cutter.

It is characteristic that installation boxes can be embedded in the same way as in stone walls - by landing on alabaster. Otherwise, the area must be localized and connected to the cable duct with a non-combustible rigid sleeve.

The technology of electrical wiring in wooden houses has its own characteristics. Not only that, to connect to the network, it will be necessary to pull the cable from the nearest substation, but the wiring inside the premises must be carried out in compliance with special safety standards.

Wiring Requirements

Wood is the most popular material used in the construction of private housing. Despite its merits, wood is a fire hazardous and highly flammable material.

Regardless of the material - brick, gas silicate blocks, concrete, timber, when a fire occurs, an open fire spreads to the furniture and interior decoration of the room. First, everything inside the room burns down, and only after that the load-bearing walls, partitions and roofing begin to burn.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in wooden buildings:

• Safety - Wiring must be routed in such a way as to minimize the possibility of overheating and ignition of the cable, as well as to prevent the transmission of open flames to adjacent wooden structures.
• Design - the technical characteristics and performance of the wires and components used must correspond to the calculated peak load in a particular section of the electrical network. To prevent heating, the cable cross-section is selected with a margin of 20–30%.
• Laying method - it is preferable to carry out electrification of wooden buildings in an open way. This allows you to easily and at regular intervals to diagnose the state of the power grid.
• Isolation - the location of the input node (electric panel) must be isolated from the interface with wooden structures. Ideally, if the electrical panel is installed in a room with a partition made of non-combustible materials.
• Conductor - as a conductor, it is better to use a three-core copper cable with insulation from non-combustible materials. Laying the cable in PVC corrugation is strictly prohibited.
• Automation - an automatic switch must be installed for each group in the electrical network. The circuit breaker current rating is selected in accordance with the load on the site. It is highly not recommended to overestimate the current rating, as this will lead to overheating of the conductor.

It is not recommended to carry out independent laying of a power cable and installation of an electrical network without appropriate experience - this should be done by specialists. But every owner of a private house must know the basic rules of electrification. This will allow him to diagnose the existing wiring, and also make it possible to control the quality of work of hired electricians.

Regulations

Rules for the installation of electrical installations is the main document for the design of electrical wiring

General requirements and rules for electrical wiring are described in the following documents:

1. PUE, edition 7 - the main document used in the design of the electrical network. It describes in detail the choice of conductor, switchgear, automation and lighting.
2. SNiP 3.05–06–85 - electrical wiring in old and new houses. Connection methods and rules for entering a power cable into a dwelling.
3. SNiP 31–02 - requirements for the installation of a power supply system in residential buildings. The document complies with the rules and regulations described in the PUE.

The information contained in these sources is described in technical language and may be incomprehensible to an unqualified specialist. For self-study, we recommend that you rely on the "Electrical Installation Rules", since this document most clearly articulates the meanings and concepts necessary for wiring in private homes.

Preparation of a power supply project

An example of two electrical network device diagrams in a wooden house

After consideration of the application by the managing body, an agreement and technical conditions necessary for connection to the local electrical network will be prepared. Then you can proceed to the design of the power supply, which is performed in the following sequence:

When drawing up a project, one should be guided by the EMP. According to this document, electrical wiring is laid strictly in a vertical or horizontal direction. The optimal angle of rotation is 90 o .

The socket group, switches and junction boxes should be located in open areas with free access. Usually, switches are mounted 80–150 cm from the floor level, and a socket or socket group - 50–80 cm. The number of sockets varies from 1–6 pieces. The exact amount depends on the size of the room, but not less than one piece per 6m 2.

When designing a cable route, it should be taken into account that the minimum distance from the openings should not be less than 10 cm. If the cable can come into contact with metal elements along the route, then it is removed by 15–30 cm in any convenient direction.

Choice of wire and devices

The cross section of the electrical wiring, taking into account the total power of the electrical network

When arranging private power networks, two types of cables are used: NYM and VVGng. The NYM type cable is a power cable that meets the European standard and is used for laying electrical networks with a rated voltage not exceeding 660 V. VVGng cable is a bare power cable, double vinyl braided, operating in networks with a constant voltage of not more than 1 kW.

The cross section of the cable for laying electrical networks is determined in "mm 2". For designation, the marking is applied to the cable insulation and is indicated by two numbers. The first digit indicates the number of wires inside the single insulation. The second digit is the cross-sectional area of ​​the conductor. For example, when an electrician says that a three-core copper cable is needed one and a half squares, this means - NYM cable 3x1.5 mm.

The easiest way to determine the minimum cross-section of the power cable core for a particular section of the network is a special table. This method is proven, as it is used in the design of electrical networks in apartment buildings. The table for selecting the cross section of the core can be found in the photo above.

As a rule, a copper cable with a cross section of 2.5–4 mm is used for socket groups, and an aluminum cable with a cross section of 1.5–2.5 mm is used for lighting. In the case of wooden houses, it is recommended to use only copper wiring, as this will protect the electrical network from overheating.

Wire of various sections for wiring in a wooden house

According to the PUE, each section of the electrical network is equipped with a residual current device and a circuit breaker designed for the corresponding current indicators. To calculate the current strength, the standard formula is used -I \u003d P / U cosφ, where:

• I - current strength;
• P is the total power of electrical appliances connected to one section of the power grid;
• U - voltage in the mains;
• cosφ is a constant coefficient. In household networks, it is almost always equal to 1.

For example, it is required to determine the current strength for the network section to which household equipment with a total power of 3 kW will be connected. I \u003d 3000 / 220 \u003d 13.64 A. Taking into account a small margin and rounding, it turns out that this section will require an RCD and a diphatomat, designed for a rated current of 16A.

To determine the type of circuit breaker, it is necessary to calculate the minimum short-circuit current: I short circuit = 3260 x S / L, where S is the conductor cross section in mm2, L is the conductor length in m. As a rule, in networks with a mixed load, which will be presented in most private houses, type “C” machines are used.

Sockets are selected taking into account the power of electrical appliances. Usually, these are sockets with grounding, rated for 16 A current. It is worth remembering that if it is planned to use several electrical appliances in a particular room, then it is better to install a socket group for 2-3 products than to use a “tee” in the future.

Selection of input cable and automation

On the left - an electric meter, on the left - an RCD with a lead-in cable

Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house - step by step instructions

It is optimal if the switchboard is installed in a special room with a concrete partition or wall

The technology for installing electrical wiring in a wooden house will consist of several stages: supplying a power cable to the house, installing a switchboard, laying a cable route, connecting contacts and checking performance.

To carry out the work, you will need to prepare an electric drill with a crown nozzle, a screwdriver, a Phillips and slotted screwdriver, an indicator screwdriver and protective rubberized gloves.

Switchboard installation

Switchboard for a private house for 12-24 modules

The switchboard is a device for entering a power cable and distributing incoming electrical energy. Inside the shield there is electrical equipment responsible for the connection, accounting, safety and correct operation of the power supply system.

Ready-made switchboards from the manufacturer are a plastic, metal or combined box with a door, DIN rail, zero and ground bus. The shield dimensions are selected according to the number of modules used. For wooden houses, a shield for 12–15 modules is enough.

The installation of the shield consists of several stages:

When using a shield for 16–24 modules, as a rule, there are two DIN rails in it. It is better to install an introductory machine, a counter and an RCD on the upper rail in the required quantity.

Circuit breakers will be located on the lower din-rail. This type of distribution of modules will allow faster and more convenient connection. After mounting all the elements, it is recommended to mark the modules according to their group. The shield assembly sequence is shown in the video below.

Related video: switchboard assembly and layout

Cable entry into the room

Laying a power cable to a residential building by air

The input of a power cable into a residential building can be performed in two ways: underground and by air. The first method is more reliable, since an armored cable protected by a corrugated pipe will be used. In this case, the wiring itself will be located under a 30–40 cm layer of earth.

A trench 70–80 cm deep is dug to lay the cable. A 15–20 cm layer of fine-grained sand is poured into the bottom of the trench and it is well compacted. Further, a protective corrugation is laid on the sand cushion, through which an armored cable is passed. Then the corrugated pipe is covered with a 10–15 cm layer of sand. At the end, the pipe is completely walled up in the ground.

Laying a power cable to a residential building underground

Cable routing through the air is carried out in cases where the distance between the house and the substation is too large. For this, a cable with a carrying cable is used, which is pulled between the supporting and residential buildings. If the distance from the post to the house exceeds 20 m, then an intermediate support is installed between them.

When a power cable is inserted through a load-bearing wall, a sleeve made of non-combustible materials is installed at the interface. It is optimal if the cable is introduced in the immediate vicinity of the location of the switchboard.

Installation of overhead switches and sockets

Removing the button and the face of the socket before installation

Overhead switches and sockets are used for both open and hidden wiring. The technology for installing a switch and a socket is similar, so let's take the process of installing a switch from Schneider Electric as an example.

The installation process consists of the following:

At the end, the operability of the switch is checked and the final assembly is carried out. The installation technology of the surface outlet is similar. As a rule, a three-wire cable is used to connect sockets, therefore, when connected, a yellow-green cable (ground) is present, which is connected to the central terminal.

Connection of wires and contacts

When installing electrical wiring in a wooden house, the use of "twists" is not allowed. Ideally, if part of the cable from the difavtomat to the point of consumption is made from a single piece of wire.

To do this, before cutting the cable, it is required to mark the wall surface. Next, using a tape measure, you will need to measure the cable route and only then cut the cable with a margin of 20 cm.

Wago terminal blocks for wiring connection

If a cable connection is unavoidable, then it is better to use:

1. Terminal block - divided into products with a tightening screw and clamping plates. The latter are more optimal, since a plate is used to contact the cable and the bus, which does not damage the conductive core.
2. The spring terminal is the simplest and most effective connection method, in which the core is held in contact with the plate by a spring clip. Can be used to connect both aluminum and copper cables.

When installing electrical wiring in a wooden house, we recommend using terminal blocks from Wago. Products are distinguished by high build quality and have a wide range of products for cables of various sections. To connect, it is enough to strip the cable by 10 mm, lift the clamping levers up and lead the cable into the terminal hole.

Methods for open wiring

Exposed retro wiring using ceramic sockets and insulators

Opening wiring is the best solution for wiring in a wooden house. The open method of laying the cable from the switchboard to the point of consumption has been used for a long time - previously the cable was located on ceramic insulators. Thus, the wiring did not have direct contact with the wooden wall.

Now this technology is called retro-wiring and is used in rooms where the total peak power is quite small and does not exceed 4 kW. In residential buildings with high peak load, this technology has a lot of disadvantages and limitations.

Open wiring in a wooden house without additional insulation

For an open wiring device, it is customary to use:

Some homeowners use a combination approach. For cable laying in straight sections, a steel straight pipe is used, and metal corrugation is used as rotary elements. This approach is not aesthetically pleasing, but it is quite reliable. For safety reasons, all metal pipes and other elements must be connected to the ground loop.

In the last article, I told you about.

Dear readers, you already know that there are several. Therefore, in today's article we will talk about open wiring in a wooden house.

I have already described the advantages and disadvantages of hidden and open electrical wiring earlier in my articles. You can read here: and.

In this article, I will not force you to make a choice in one direction or another, but I just want to tell you in detail how to properly install open wiring in a wooden house.

So let's get started.

How to properly install open wiring in a wooden house?

Before performing the installation of open wiring in a wooden house, first of all, it is necessary to think in advance about the places where the electric points will be installed. Electric points include: switches (), lamps, lighting panels, power panels and other electrical equipment.

Secondly, it is necessary to decide on the method of laying open electrical wiring in your home.

What methods of laying open electrical wiring exist?

Methods for laying open electrical wiring in a wooden house

There are several ways to lay open electrical wiring:

• on porcelain rollers or insulators (wiring in old apartments and houses, or retro-style wiring)
• on staples
• in PVC corrugation
• in PVC pipes
• in metal pipes
• in a metal hose
• in PVC boxes
• in cable channels
• on cable trays

Let me give you a few illustrative examples. Here's what it looks like.

You can read more about each laying method in my article.

Installation of open wiring in a wooden house

1. Marking the route

Installation of open wiring must begin with markings. In addition to marking the installation sites of electrical points, it is necessary to mark the route for laying cables and wires.

Do not rush when drawing the markup, think carefully about each step.

Otherwise, you will have to redo the already completed wiring.

2. Installation of electric points (sockets, switches, lamps)

At the second stage of installation of open wiring, it is necessary.

Attention!!! The base for mounting sockets, switches, lamps, etc. must be metal.

We cut out a metal plate (base) and fasten it to the place where we planned to install an outlet, switch, lamp and other things.

3. Laying wires and cables

The third stage of open installation includes laying wires and cables. We discussed the methods of laying wires and cables a little higher.

I remind you that the passage of wires and cables through wooden structures (ceilings, floors, walls, partitions) should be carried out ONLY THROUGH METAL SLEEVES (PIPES).

To install a metal sleeve in a wooden structure, you need to make a hole with. We insert a metal sleeve into this hole so that its edges on each side protrude at a distance of 1 (cm) from the wooden structure.

And after all that has been said above, we proceed to the laying of wires and cable lines.

Read about how to choose the cross-section of the cores of cables and wires in the article how to correctly and.

Laying open wiring is carried out with three-core or five-core wires, i.e. by or .

4. Connection

The fourth stage of the installation of open wiring in a wooden house is cutting and connecting wires and cables to electrical equipment. This is done with the help of tools (I gave a link to an article about tools above in the text).

5. Completion of works

After completing the work, you need to contact the specialists of the electrical laboratory, who will carry out acceptance measurements and tests of the electrical wiring:

• RCD measurement
• and etc.

After the measurements and tests carried out, the specialists of the electrical laboratory will provide you with protocols in which they will write a conclusion on the condition and serviceability of your newly installed electrical wiring.

P.S. On this article on the topic of open wiring in a wooden house, I complete. Ask me your questions in the comments or in the feedback form. Subscribe to new articles.

And how did you install open electrical wiring in a wooden house ???

101 comments on the entry “Open wiring in a wooden house”

I have a hundred year old wooden house. and the wiring used to be on rollers. Nothing less than a hundred years old. Dusty and oily. Especially in the kitchen. Now we have changed the wiring. and all of it in PVC cases. Just a miracle: neat, clean. easy to care for and clean the house now is not scary)))

THANKS. NOW I'M JUST GETTING INFO ON THE ISSUE OF OPEN AND CLOSED ELECTRICAL WIRING IN A WOODEN HOUSE. EVERYTHING IS AVAILABLE AND EVEN IS CLEAR TO ME) EXPLANATIONS IN PICTURES ARE VERY HELPING

As for VVGng-LS, I completely agree, many do not pay much attention to this, even PUNP manage to lay ...

I liked the semi-antique wiring on rollers - it looks beautiful, so cool)))

We were just about to change the wiring at the dacha, it is quite ancient with us, well, now we will do everything according to the rules.

I have two questions:
1. Is it possible to openly lay a VVGng-LS cable with a cross section from 1.5 mm2 to 4 mm2 on a wooden wall (with fastening with brackets)?
2. Is it possible to lay a VVGng-LS cable openly in a metal hose along wooden walls and ceilings in the attic (two options for the attic: 1) frequently visited; 2) practically none. I'm talking about rodents).
Thanks in advance!
P.S. And in general, a huge respect for your articles. Until you find the answer in books, you will forget the question...

Sergey, I will answer your first question. Yes, you can. On the second question - I wanted to write a separate article - electrical wiring in the attic. There are special requirements for it.

Thank you for your hard work!
Will wait.

Hello, tell me please, is there any new way to connect to the aluminum wires going from the pole to the house to the insulators? before, they simply twisted the wire (aluminum) around the power supply, then they used nuts, then nuts were banned, then twisting, too. So what is the right way to connect? in the first case, if we connect with copper and the second case, if with aluminum. Of course, it would be nice to see the pictures ... These contacts are very important, there were cases, and not rare, when the threat of fire was precisely in these contacts. The installation in the house was of high quality and competent, and due to poor contacts at the entrance, heating and sparking occurred. The introductory machine did not work out not for heat, not for EM protection.

Konstantin, at present, I recommend using SIP to enter the supply voltage into the house. Where did you get the idea that the "nuts" were canceled - this type of wire connection is allowed in the PUE.

I accidentally met a theorist from Energonadzor at the facility and he scratched me about nuts that the wind was shaking the wire coming to the house and the temperature outside the copper expands and narrows and that the nut connection on the nut loosens and the contact is broken and in short everything is gone ... I argue I didn’t bother with it, and just in case, I first twist on the supply cable, and then I put a nut on the twist. I have heard. what else connections appeared in the replacement of nuts, I even saw them, black with a 10 bolt, when tightening, it clamps both the incoming wire and the one to which I contact. I wanted to ask - has anyone worked with such clamps? And the SIP wire for supplying to the house (self-supporting insulated wire) in my opinion stands for this. And I need to pick up from the shield inside the house through a metal tube to the wires from the insulators on the house outside. AVVG 2x10 is more suitable for me (as it seems to me) and the section should be enough for a small wooden house ...

If I find a suitable clamp to connect copper with aluminum correctly, of course, I will start copper 2x6 or 2x10, also some kind of VVGng LS

A few words about the site: of course, thank you for being there and the site is very accessible and very necessary. I would like to note only one thing - in a wooden house, the base of the sockets must be metal (as you write) and this is absolutely correct, but in the photo on the site - as an example of mounting sockets and switches of the Etude company under a tree (if I'm not mistaken with the brand) , and the sketch never made a metal base not in sockets or switches. No matter how someone didn’t read the description in full, they mounted the wiring according to the example in the photo ... I never saw that a metal plate would be specially cut out under the outlet and you couldn’t see it in the photo.

If the manufacturer of switches and sockets does not produce them with a metal base, then it must be done independently. So we did on one of the objects (bath) during installation. It is not visible in the photo, because. I think that aesthetics should be present in the work and it is not advisable to make a metal plate larger than the dimensions of the outlet or switch itself.

The walnut consists of three plates, so there is no direct contact between copper and aluminum, their contact occurs through a steel plate. Which is what we need. So with a clear conscience, you can use nuts in your case.

The clamp you are talking about is special clamps for CIP wires. I will write a detailed article about them soon.

so if I choose the SIP wire supplying to the shield, can I connect to aluminum from insulators with such clamps? or are they only SIP to SIP??? there, just when the bolt is tightened, the contacts inside the clamp are extended and sharp enough ... how could I not bite the aluminum from the insulators to them.

Good day!
Tell me, please, are there any special requirements for connecting electric convectors (floor and wall) in a wooden house with a new (2009) open, copper, three-wire wiring?

Tatyana, hello!!! First of all, it is necessary that the cable to the convector be of the appropriate section. The section is selected according to its installed power (according to the passport). It is advisable to power it through an RCD or a differential automat of the appropriate rating. Basically, that's all. If you have any difficulties, write me the power of your convector - I will choose the electrical equipment for you.

Good health!
I want to ask about the localization ability. With closed wiring, special attention is paid to this issue. When open, it turns out that almost none is paid! If with hidden wiring it is necessary to cover the wiring on all sides with non-combustible material, then with open wiring, in my opinion, at least from the sides adjacent to combustible surfaces! Isn't it logical?
Quote: "Attention!!! The walls of PVC corrugations and plastic boxes (channels) burn out during a short circuit, which, when used in hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house, will lead to a fire.
Question: Is there no such danger when wiring in PVC corrugation or a plastic box directly on wooden surfaces? Kind of strange, isn't it?

PUE, PTEEP, SNiPs are, of course, laws for electricians, you can’t get anywhere.
Therefore, the most correct thing seems to be laying wiring in metal pipes. However, I believe that even professionals can do it without deviating from the norms. I'm not talking about the cost. The output is still in the laying of external wiring.
In my opinion, there is a big myth about eating wires by rodents and other animals (maybe the electricians themselves came up with it?) And all short circuits come from network overload, poor network condition and other mess.
With a properly designed project, the choice of the permissible load and, accordingly, the cross section of the wires, protection, RCD and, accordingly, high-quality installation, plus periodic testing of electrical wiring and equipment for 100 years, nothing will happen.

Regarding the myth about rodents: I witnessed such a 'sabotage'. When replacing the wire (old) with a new one in the void of the interior partition, the insulation was carefully removed from both cores. Traces of touching each other were visible on the bare wires. The house was old wooden before the fire one step. After that, all passages through the walls were urgently checked and metal tubes were clogged into the places of passage. So this is not a myth.

What is the chief saying?

Good afternoon.

In my wooden house on the second floor, on the sides of the rooms there are unheated sinuses, through which you can freely crawl. Is it possible to lay a cable in a metal hose in them?

Igor, you can, if at the same time the wiring is laid openly and there will be access to it. But if this is an attic, then special requirements are imposed on electrical wiring in attics.

Igor, only metal pipes and nothing else is allowed. ground them and move on.

Konstantin, metal pipes with hidden wiring - I agree. But Igor did not make any clarifications about the premises and the method of laying electrical wiring.

How to connect a switch with a socket. Show the diagram.

Eugene, at this time there is no such scheme on the site.

And how to properly and at what height to mount the counter on the street on the wall of the house. And what hooks to put for eyeliner from the pole?

Is it mandatory to organize grounding in a wooden house when connected to a single-phase 220v-6kW network?

Nicholas for sure.

Good afternoon! Thank you for your answer. But if you look at the essence: I have a room without increased danger, there are no plumbing or heating pipes, no iron cabinets, etc., but if I run the ground circuit and the ground, for example, a microwave oven, then it appears the possibility of being hit when simultaneously touching the phase wire, by chance, and a grounded device.

Nikolai, in such situations, an RCD is installed, which will turn off the power in the event of a current leakage

Hello everyone, I live in an old wooden house, the wiring is the same as the house, they made repairs in one room and accordingly changed the wiring to a new one, copper by 2.5 sq. mm. (as I thought), but it turned out (after a short reading on this site) at 1.7 sq. mm., thanks to the admin for explaining such things to us mere mortals, far from electricity, for example, when I bought a wire for wiring, I knew that I need a section of 2.5 sq. mm. and bought one, and it turned out to be PUNP, what now to change everything over again? In the contact of copper with aluminum, heating occurs when you turn on, for example, a microwave, now I want to draw a separate line to the light, sockets and appliances such as a microwave, but what about the contact with aluminum (I put the terminal block, but it’s still some kind of nonsense), if you pull copper to the counter or to the traffic jams, how to be, there is aluminum, will it heat up again or something? Unclear! The terminal block melted, and if you lay it up to the traffic jams, it starts to melt in traffic jams ??? Thank you!

Oleg, you just need to make a high-quality copper-aluminum connection - that's all allowed. And leave PUNP, if it is of the appropriate section, then operate it, if the section is underestimated, then load it a little less.

I did electrical wiring in a wooden house at the dacha on my own. I read the article. Thanks for the valuable information. It turned out that he did the right thing, that he did the wiring in an open way in PVC boxes. But as it turned out, he made a number of violations. In places of passage through wooden walls, I laid wires in PVC corrugation, which is a serious violation. In addition, sockets and switches have a plastic base that is attached to a wooden wall. I have lived with such wiring for five years during warm periods. First of all, this year I will install a metal base under all sockets and switches, and I will install metal sleeves in places where the wooden walls pass through. And the electrical panel in which the machines are located should also be metal, and not plastic? Or is it possible to have a plastic, but necessarily a metal base for the shield? The point of connection of electricity to the overhead line is not made in my house, but in a separate utility unit, and from the utility unit it goes to the house with a cable that lies on a metal cable.

Hello, I have some questions.
1. Let's say I'm laying a new wiring with a three-wire VVG. It turns out that I have to connect my line from the meter (shield) to each outlet, since the PE conductor can only be connected to the GZSH, and connected to the distribution. no boxes?
2. Why a metal base for electrical outlets? Does it need to be grounded?

Stephen, good afternoon.

1. You can connect PE conductors in junction boxes
2. Do you want to attach the socket directly to a wooden surface? But what about fire safety - all of a sudden you accidentally overload the outlet, it starts to heat up and melt? The base does not need to be grounded.

It is clear, why then do the main ground bus, if you can just make branches from one PE conductor?

Hello Stepan.
It is necessary to connect the PE wire according to the norms without breaking. Because PE wire is one of the main ways to protect against electric shock. current it can not be connected "in a loop". It is necessary to clean the core from insulation without a cut, screw 2-3 threads of the same wire as the core, crimp and solder this place. All this is done in the socket.
The second way is to use the "VAGO" clamp, while the core can be cut. This method allows Energonadzor as an exception. But the main way is by soldering without a cut.

Good afternoon!
Tell me, please, what should be the thickness of the metal plate installed under the sockets and switches? For example, is regular food foil okay or do you need something more serious? Thank you.

But really, this logic proposed by the PUE is not at all clear. Those. a categorical prohibition to use a cable channel, PVC corrugation, metal hose, etc. with a closed method of wiring for combustible materials (which, however difficult it may be in practice, is understandable and justified) and at the same time allow the use of the same cable channel, PVC corrugation, etc. with the open method. Does it matter if the cable passes under the wooden lining or along it, if in both cases it is in direct contact with the tree? Is this allowed only because it is assumed that open wiring is always in sight and if something happens to it, it will be visible. Well, somehow this is very weak - for such a regulatory document as the PUE, relying on such assumptions in such a responsible matter as fire safety. Well, you can’t really expect that all the rooms in the house (of which there can be quite a lot) are simultaneously under the visual control of the owner. Or what, he must constantly run around the house and watch, no matter where the cable channel burns out or the mouse gnaws through PVC corrugation laid in an open way?! And if you need to leave home, but at the same time leave some load (for heating, for example)?!!! It's scary to think at all! In general, to put it mildly, strange logic! I absolutely agree with Ilya (comment-question from 05/18/2013 at 21:13)
What do you think about this, Dmitry? The fact that these are the rules and you did not invent them is understandable. But if you still abstract from the PUE. Just your "private opinion"?
Also, I would like to know this:
Are there, in principle, ready-made sleeves for the passage of walls on sale? Different diameters and lengths? Or you need to take simple gas pipes and make them yourself. And wouldn't it be more correct to make the length of the pipe-sleeve such that about 10 mm remained to protrude from each side of the wall. Then cut the threads at the ends and tighten this sleeve on both sides with thin nuts and washers?

Concerning metal plates for installation between switches. What should be the thickness of this plate?

In my wooden house, I simply wrapped the sections of wires passing through the walls with thick metal foil (in several layers, without a strong tightness). Installation is simplified, the wires themselves are not damaged, while there is no direct contact between the wire and wooden surfaces - just like when using metal sleeves. I put the same foil (2-3 layers) under switches with sockets. Foil is the most common - food.

Of course, I agree that electrical wiring in a wooden house is a special case (regardless of whether it is open or hidden) and fire safety should not be neglected here. On the contrary, it is necessary to approach this issue more carefully. But rules are rules, and I conveyed their demands to you. I can only speculate and guess why the requirements for open wiring are somewhat relaxed. Most likely because open wiring is always available for inspection, and in the event of a short circuit, the place of the circuit will be clearly visible (traces of soot, melting), the smell of burning will appear faster than the short circuit will occur in recessed places inside wooden partitions with hidden wiring.

All bushings, bushings and adapters can be found in stores, though more often on order. Well, or do it yourself - it will be much cheaper. The requirements for the thickness of the metal plate are the same as for metal pipes for electrical wiring, i.e. with a cross section of the supply cable up to 2.5 sq. mm, the thickness is not standardized, and with 4 sq. mm - 2.8 (mm).

Hello!

Thanks to everyone for the helpful and insightful information.

Not being an expert, I'll try to guess:
- such stringent requirements for hidden wiring in wooden houses are explained by the fact that houses made of logs or timber over time (tens of years) are subject to decay and, accordingly, vertical shrinkage and horizontal displacement (rickety huts).
I myself live in such a crooked hut - the maximum offset from the vertical (between the lower part of the wall and its upper part) is 180 mm with a wall height of 2.5 m.
It seems that hidden wiring (without steel pipes) would not have endured such a distortion and would have started a fire.

Apparently, the PUEs were written on the basis of mournful experience, like the traffic rules.
I thought: it would be nice to read the comments with pictures) to the PUE, like the existing comments-explanations to the traffic rules.

Good afternoon!
Tell me, there are articles on the Internet that say that in a wooden house, each outlet requires a separate cable from the electrical panel. Do you think it is worth doing the wiring in this way.

Sayan, these requirements are acceptable not only in a wooden house, but also in an ordinary apartment. Here everything is decided by the owner. If you want the maximum reliability of power supply, while spending a decent amount on materials, then you are welcome. Personally, I am in favor of this method, but it all depends on the budget and the appropriateness of this solution in a particular case.

Good day everyone!
Tell me if I made a mistake somewhere with my new wiring in a wooden house.
The walls are sheathed with drywall (the gap from the wall is 5-10 cm. The distribution boxes are in plastic plaster, twisting, I think I can put clamps. Open wiring on the walls in cable channels, cable VVG ng ls 2.5 mm.
I want a stretch ceiling. I will lead the ceiling in the corrugation, and I will fill the track with fire-resistant drywall 12.5.
Introductory machine 25a.uzo 40 a, 30 mA, and two machines 16 each for rooms.
What mistakes did he make?
I take this issue very seriously, I do not want to screw up.

Good day.

They promised to tell about the wiring in the attic - this is of course interesting.
But for example, I’m wondering what are the requirements for wiring in the basement (especially considering that the basement has wooden sheds for storing various things of residents and wooden chests for potatoes) and how to properly lay the wiring there, or rather, let’s say, not so much to replace all the wiring, but to make a branch line to your shed and make a light and an outlet there?

And at the same time, how do you feel about the method of laying on combustible structures or next to them in a metal-plastic pipe (of course, PVC plastic) ?, some practice.

1). Instead of a steel pipe, when laying on combustible structures (SC), you can use an aluminum tube / y with a diameter of 16mm, a wall thickness of about 1.5mm? (it seems that the type of metal is not indicated in the PUE or is it indicated?)

2). As a lining on the IC for a socket / switch / junction box, can you use not a steel sheet, but an aluminum sheet with a thickness of about 1 mm?

3). If there is no grounding, is it necessary to ground a metal pipe (aluminum) in which the wire goes through the SC if it is known that no one will touch this pipe? , and is it possible to put an RCD / differential machine if there is no ground and turn off the RCD / differential machine if there is a phase or zero wire short circuit on a metal pipe, but no one touches it, i.e. there will be no leakage through a person? - again, if the RCD / differential machine is not connected to the ground due to its absence.

The metal hose is prohibited for laying in wooden houses without additional fire-fighting measures, since it does not have a localization ability. Localization ability is the ability of a STEEL CONTINUOUS pipe to withstand a short circuit flash. Read the EMP more carefully. It has all the answers to your questions. Or hire a competent specialist if you don’t want to read.

Correction! I did not finish the explanation! metal hose is prohibited for hidden laying! From myself I will add my own method: open, providing a distance from the combustible surface of at least 10 mm and using differential protection for such a line. The metal hose must be grounded and the resistance checked.

And if not to ground, but to use this sleeve as a simple thermal and mechanically protecting screen? Or to earth, what will happen if double-insulated wires / cables are used?

If you do not ground, then you will lose an important component of a set of security measures - on your conscience. These segments of the metal hose fall under the requirements of the PUE by default. Everything And what is so difficult in this task?

Hello! I want to replace the input myself in my private house and install an introductory machine, do I need to invite electricians from the electrical network before that so that they make sure that I didn’t break anything in the wiring, or invite them after I’ve done everything so that they seal the machine for me and brought to the wire counter??? Thank you!

Novel:
08/02/2015 at 09:43
You need to notify the energy sales organization, whose representatives will unseal the electric meter

Good afternoon!

Please explain what you meant when you recommended putting a metal plate under a socket or switch when wiring is open on combustible surfaces. Is this a PUE requirement? But then, in theory, the plate should simply be non-combustible - fiberglass or getinaks or any other non-combustible material of the appropriate thickness. And should it protrude 10 mm from the outlet - as when requiring laying on a combustible surface with a wire in combustible insulation. And does this requirement apply to all external sockets or only to those who are not protected by anything on the reverse side? And if they are sealed (IP54) - do you need a plate too? The requirement for a wire distance from a combustible surface of 10 mm is fulfilled automatically, isn't it?

Good afternoon!!! Tell me how to choose the right cable channel size for a certain number of outgoing lines????

Good time of the day!
Do you think a piece of a ski pole is suitable for the role of a metal pipe for passing through a wall? Or maybe it won't fit...

You for security, or for formality?

for security
and dofiga ski poles ...

I decided to replace aluminum with copper, laid the entire backup circuit, but I don’t know how to connect from insulators, the indicator does not show where the phase wire is, such a disaster

Hello, I have a few questions about wiring in a wooden house:

1. The article says that you can do wiring on brackets. But PUE 2.1.37 says that unprotected wires must be led along surfaces made of combustible materials either through something fireproof or with a gap of 10mm. The definition of a protected wire states that it is a wire that, in addition to insulation, has a metal or other sheath over electrical insulation to protect against mechanical damage. If you do wiring to VVGNG, then its general external insulation is considered a sheath from fur. damage? Or vvgng is not protected by definition, and then they cannot be wired on brackets. I'm confused about something, tk. half of the articles on the Internet on this topic do not consider the option of open wiring on brackets at all.
2. What is the correct name for wall penetration sleeves? Cable penetrations? Need to google and buy. Or do they not sell them and do you have to cut the pipes yourself and supply them with plastic tips to prevent damage to the wire by the edge of the pipe? In this case, what tags should I use to search for these tips for purchase on the Internet? Or do they have to be done on their own?
3. Sockets, switches, etc. must be placed on met. grounds. PUE somehow regulate their thickness?
4. Is it allowed to lay cables, install switches and sockets on the outer walls of the house (from the inside, of course).
5. Is it possible to use the same penetration and the same boxes for power cables and low current?
Thanks in advance!

Gregory:
05/05/2016 at 18:20
1.Turn on the logic.. the cable (CABLE, not WIRE) must be INSULATED from the combustible surface either with a layer of air or a plaster coat. So, you need: either non-combustible insulators that will move the cable a distance of at least 10 mm, or a layer of plaster, at least 10 mm. What other staples, really..that will hold your cable to the tree? to make it burn better?) forget.
2. Buy a 3/4 STEEL pipe in Leroy. Saw off so that the pipe protrudes 2 cm above the surface on both sides. Buy an electrical pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. It fits exactly inside 3/4. Saw it off cm more than the metal pipe. Wrap the ends with electrical tape so that it does not fall out of the metal pipe. Everything is ready.
3. Does not regulate, IMHO. I lay the cable in a tray 0.7 mm thick. Enough for burning. Take 0.7mm and ground. Double control.
If you don't understand, send me an email and I'll send a photo.

Gregory.
4. The question is not clear. Expand the topic.
5. Weak current can be different. It is better not to take risks and throw a weak current separately (against mice) in a PVC metal hose.

I recently made wiring in sheds, I also did it on brackets because I read various articles about brackets, VVGngP / VVGng 2 * 1.5 2 * 2.5
I will soon shift into the corrugation, then I consulted with electricians / firefighters. the general conclusion is that on the brackets it’s possible for your loved one, but if the firemen come to check, they will clog up and can turn off the house until it is eliminated. Yes, and again, your own house then ..
I read the PUE later. but even then, as a non-specialist, some subtleties require consultation for me.

about the pipe in Leroy - better in plumbing stores. cheaper in Leroy the pipe is imported, at the moment it costs almost 800 rubles per two meters
in the plumbing store 260 rubles for two meters Russian.

Author of the site, please answer the following previously asked questions (and it is better to duplicate the answer in the article itself):
1. And the electrical panel in which the machines are located should also be metal, and not plastic? Or is it possible to have a plastic, but necessarily a metal base for the shield?
2. Are there, in principle, ready-made sleeves for the passage of walls on sale? Different diameters and lengths? Or you need to take simple gas pipes and make them yourself. And wouldn't it be more correct to make the length of the pipe-sleeve such that about 10 mm remained to protrude from each side of the wall. Then cut the threads at the ends and tighten this sleeve on both sides with thin nuts and washers?
And then, where to get bushings that are inserted into the pipe from both sides so as not to damage the cable? If again, do it yourself, then, do not advise, from what and how?
3. How to choose the right cable channel size for a certain number of outgoing lines? (you can make a separate article about this, because there are many combinations, at least for cables with a cross section of 1.5 and 2.5 mm and their different numbers in different, the most popular combinations)

Please tell me, I started to change the wiring in a wooden house. In the cable channel I laid the cable VVGngLS 3x6 flat. Then I saw that this cable is round and, apparently, with a filler. The question arose: is it allowed to use a flat cable? Can you replace it with a round one?

Don't change anything. Their operational properties are the same. The filler only gives the round VVG a round shape.

Specifically, there is no error on the issue, the PUE does not regulate whether it is a flat or round cable. If it is really VVgNgLs, then everything is in order. The flat one closes more conveniently in the cable channel, the round one has a large bending radius.
The second point, what device feeds this cable and with what denomination is the machine selected to protect this line? This is too large a section for sockets. More like an input cable for the main shield.

Thank you all for your help.
The cable goes from the box with the meter to the switchboard. The machine stands at 32A.

Any owner of a house or apartment wants the electrical wiring in his home to be of high quality and reliable. If experience and knowledge allow, it is quite possible to do the wiring correctly with your own hands, both in a panel and a wooden house.

At first glance, if you lay electrical wiring in a wooden house in accordance with the requirements of SNiP, PES, there will be no problems. Nevertheless, laying fireproof electrical wiring in a wooden house is really feasible, and you can choose which wiring to use.

And why should the VVGng cable be laid along the wall in a corrugation or cable channel? After all, VVGng is made in non-combustible insulation, and corrugated pipes and cable channels are made of ordinary plastic. Or do I need to take metal corrugated pipes and cable channels? I have never seen something like this in anyone's country house...

something I can’t enter, the photo shows that the cable is all in the cable channel ON the wooden wall, without the cable channel it even comes into contact with the wall, but in my house it goes along the wall in the corrugation on brackets and the wall itself is sewn into plaster and now I don’t see the difference that I have the wiring done and the one that is shown here as an external one. what should I do to change everything or leave it?

Alexey, if the cable is laid along a wooden wall, and then the wall is sewn up with drywall along the profile, then this is a hidden wiring, not open.
SP 256.1325800.2016 "Electrical wiring in cavities above impassable suspended ceilings and inside prefabricated partitions are considered hidden." If there is something combustible inside the partition - like wood, this is a flammability class G4, with all the consequences of laying cables in metal pipes ..
But according to PUE 7, the cable can be laid in the plaster outline.
Security compromise - you first had to sew strips of drywall 9.5mm, making a non-combustible gasket between the cable and a wooden surface, close the second same strip on top, enclosing the cable in a non-combustible sheath, and then sew up the wall along the profile with drywall ..

Something is not clear in a wooden house, it turns out laying methods that cannot be used with hidden wiring are allowed with open wiring? What is the meaning of all this? At first I thought that the authors of the articles are different.

Good afternoon. It is written everywhere that the passage through the wall must be made of a metal pipe, but when the cable is heated, everything is transferred to the combustible surface, especially if the pipe is thin. Why is it impossible to use a plastic non-combustible pipe? What is she inferior to? The following question is also interesting: is it possible to do wiring in boxes, if its dimensions allow?

SP 31-105-2002 clause 13.5 I would very much like to hear your opinion on this system of regulatory documents in construction.

good afternoon! I have such a problem, I have a short on the switch when you turn it off, the switch sparks and the counter makes a crack!

And what do you turn off such that sparks, an ordinary light bulb? In general, the switch cannot help shorting, this is its direct work - to close the contacts in the power circuit meter / fuse (automatic) / switch / lamp / meter.

Good afternoon.
Where is it indicated that sockets and switches must be mounted through fireproof (metal) sockets on a wooden surface?
What rules can I refer to to prove to management?

Arkady Petrovich, there is no clear paragraph of the Rules that would talk about the use of metal plates. The socket can also have a PVC base, but you just need to know for sure that the base is made of non-combustible material. And unfortunately, this is not always the case. You can’t even imagine how many sockets, sockets and corrugated pipes with the “ng” index are on the market, but in fact they quite actively support combustion. That's exactly why I still recommend installing metal plates if you are not sure about the quality of the plastic products used. By the way, some series of sockets have a ready-made metal base, just the same for installation on wooden and other combustible surfaces, in which case you do not need to make these same plates yourself.

SP 256.1325800.2016, clause 15.5 In buildings with building structures made of combustible materials of groups G2 and (or) G3, it is allowed: open laying of single cables and wires in a protective sheath with copper conductors with a cross section of not more than 6 sq. mm in PVC insulation in accordance with GOST 31565 without lining; hidden laying under plaster of cables and wires in a protective sheath with copper conductors with a cross section of not more than 6 sq. mm in a flame retardant design, according to GOST 31565 according to the plaster outline.

Good afternoon!
To the question asked earlier - is it necessary to lay something between the plastic switchboard and the wooden wall (lining) of the frame house? Thank you!

Dima. This is something — a non-combustible spacer. Metal sheet, LSU sheet or DSP. Asbestos is prohibited. Connect the Metal Sheet between the wall and the ASU to the main ground bus. One hundred percent NG base is metal, stone. Plastic that does not melt at all is not used in sockets and switches. And if you add a little more imagination, then you can imagine the fall of an overheated outlet leaking self-extinguishing plastic on a carpet that spreads combustion perfectly (with magnificent poisonous smoke to boot).
A certificate of NG plastic will be enough for the authorities so that they don’t go to jail, if that).
Oleg.
The pipe is also so that the cable passing through it is not damaged when the wall is deformed. The plastic is soft.
Unsoldering. It must be positioned so that it is accessible and visible not only to the author of the wiring. The cable usually heats up first of all / burns in places of poor connections. If the desoldering is located in a tray/cable duct, in a bundle of transit and terminal cables/wires, in an emergency this will cause damage to the entire bundle. It is necessary to preserve the operability of the rest of the system by moving the dangerous section outside the main bundle, to the desoldering. In an accident, repairs will be easier and damage less severe.

I took a couple of Kopos LKM45 universal boxes for open installation of the flush installation series, it costs one dollar a piece. Self-extinguishing PVC 850°С, inside markings on three sides for a channel up to 40×20 mm, when installed directly on the G4, the manufacturer recommends heat-insulating pads. They are not metal at Kopos, I don’t know from what, but without asbestos. Box size 98×98×45 mm.
Further on the pictures there are frames 80 × 80 mm and 90 × 90 mm.

Hello. I'm worried in the full sense of the word: I discovered that the builders had brought a PVA cable into the steam room for lighting. Immediately suspended the operation of the bathhouse. I bought a wire RKGM 1x1.5. Now the question is: can these wires (RKGM) be laid in the steam room directly on the lining between the ceiling and the wall and covered with a plinth? Sales consultants say that it is possible because the wire is heat-resistant up to 180 degrees. There is, of course, another option - to bring to the outside of the wall and lead directly into the steam room to the lamps.

Vladimir, the second option is better.
And if you cover it with a plinth, then at least in the corrugation, if space allows .... and do not forget about the RCD

Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house is mounted to perform the full functionality of the system. Installation of wiring in wooden structures must ensure the safety of the structure from fire. Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house is quite acceptable, but you should carefully familiarize yourself with the standards and norms for this process. Each owner of a wooden building wants to create and provide comfortable and favorable living conditions for the household.

Modern installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house can be divided into the following main stages:

1. Development of project documentation with an appendix on the calculation of the power required for electrical equipment;
2. Providing the necessary materials for installation (cables, sockets, electrical appliances, sockets, lamps, switchboard, etc.);
3. Entering into the house of automatic machines, an electric meter and a switchboard;
4. Laying and wiring of cables and wires at the points of localization of electricity;
5. Installation of additional devices (sockets, switches, lamps, etc.);
6. Providing grounding and protective shutdown;
7. System connection;
8. Running and testing wiring.

Wiring in houses of wooden construction should exclude any fire. Cable wires and other elements must have the following characteristics:

• cable wires must be treated and insulated with refractory agents;
• for outdoor installation, aluminum or thermal pipes are used;
• cables with copper conductors and the required cross section are used to withstand the power load;
• grooves (strobes) for laying cables are treated with refractory substances (fucam, frisol).

Details of the development of the scheme of electrical work in a wooden house

A detailed calculation of the power of electrical equipment is the key to a well-designed project. This project is based on the following points:

• drawing up a drawing of the house indicating the points of lighting devices, sockets and electrical equipment (electric stoves, ventilation systems, etc.);
• the location of the places of localization of electrical equipment, determined taking into account the power consumption;
• creating blocks to provide lighting. In houses of small dimensions, one block is enough;
• creation of a separate block to control street lighting. Street lighting is recommended to be mounted on a separate machine, as this provides the possibility of de-energizing the house during the absence of the owners of the house;
• household appliances (electric boilers, water heaters, electric stoves) that require a lot of electricity are connected through a special machine. When installing these devices, it is necessary to provide for the use of special cables that are laid separately;
• to calculate the power, you need to write out all the devices used, after which they select the machines for turning off.

Additional materials used in electrical work

Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house should ensure a continuous process; you need to stock up on tools and equipment. In these works, pliers, screwdrivers, a hammer, a chisel, a screwdriver, a knife for electrical work are used.

There are two types: metal and plastic. For wooden buildings, experts recommend installing metal shields inside the house. Most often, the following types of cables are placed in the shield:

• to provide current to lighting devices;
• for sockets;
• for electric stoves;
• for meters that control electricity consumption;
• for RCD.

Electrical stores sell switchboards to accommodate 12 pieces of electrical equipment. For houses of standard dimensions with the usual arrangement of electrical wiring elements, shields for 9 places are used.

In addition, for the installation of electrical wiring, it is necessary to prepare:

• electric wires of a certain section. In wooden houses, a three-core VVG cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm is used;
• sockets, knife switches, the number of these devices is calculated according to the scheme. Basically, when choosing, they pay attention to quality and combination with the interior colors. Sockets and switches equipped with brass and bronze contacts are used;
• cables and skirting boards with grooves;
• junction boxes, insulating clips and tape;
• electric meter, today there are two types of meters: one- and two-tariff. At current electricity prices, it is more rational to use a two-tariff meter, since it keeps records according to the tariff depending on the time of day;
• self-tapping screws, aluminum tape, fasteners - clips, clothespins, clips.

The above list should be collected before the initial step of the workflow.

The specifics of the selection of cables and electrical appliances

The main specifics of the choice of cables is the cross section of the wires and their power. First you need to clearly define the groups of electrical equipment and the voltage of the electricity required for the full operation of the system.

To install electricians in wooden houses, marked VVG cables made of copper are used. Cables of this type are more affordable. NYM brand cable is more expensive, but has a number of advantages - reliable insulation, ease of use and security. Aluminum cables can also be used, but they are not as reliable as their structure is more brittle and prone to kinks.

A three-core cable with a grounding effect is brought to the sockets. When using electrical household appliances, grounding is mandatory.

According to the Electrical Installation Rules, when installing lighting fixtures, grounding is a mandatory attribute.

The wiring in a wooden house is carried out according to two types:

• external, characterized by laying through the use of cable channels;
• hidden laying of wires is performed in cases where it is planned to plaster the surface of the walls.

The laying of wires inside the walls is carried out using pipes or metal sleeves to provide insulation and protection against mechanical integrity violations.

Electrical appliances (sockets and switches) used in wooden houses must comply with the following parameters:

• must match the voltage;
• according to the type of installation - internal or external.

The number of sockets and switches is determined using the draft. At the discretion of the owner, it is allowed to install joint switches, for example, in the bathroom and toilet, corridor and pantry.

The installation process of the introductory machine

For the correct choice of the input cable, it is necessary to calculate the entire power consumption in the house. During repair work, if you decide to increase the ratings of the switches, do not forget about replacing the input cable. It is necessary to select the input cable for the total power of the appliances in the house, because the wrong section will not provide sufficient functionality for the electrical wiring.

The choice of the machine should be started with special care: if the machine is worn out, then short circuits and overvoltages often occur. If a three-phase network is used in the house, then the use of a three-pole circuit breaker should be ensured. Accordingly, with a single-phase electricity network, a single-pole or two-pole switch is used with the input of the zero phase.

For a single-phase network, the machines must have the following properties:

• it is necessary to calculate the optimal current voltage in the release of the machine. A single-phase electrical network involves the use of switches with a 25-ampere current;
• in wooden houses, category C switches are often used, which have a certain current ratio;
• the switch at the input is mounted after the installation of the electric meter, it is needed to ensure the correct calculation for the consumed electricity;
• automatic devices, RCDs, an electric meter - all these devices are elements of a switchboard. The shield consists of a body, and the installation of the necessary elements occurs through the use of a DIN rail.

For the correct calculation of the power indicators of the voltage network, specially developed formulas are used.

Cable wiring, installation of sockets and switches

In accordance with the scheme. To do this, routes are determined in kind, that is, on the surface of the wall of the house, after which they mount junction boxes and mark the installation points for sockets, lamps and switches. The cables used must be of the appropriate size to ensure full use of the system.

When laying cable wires in metal boxes or pipes, finishing of the internal space of the walls is required. For hidden wiring, the use of corrugated pipes is prohibited, as this can lead to fire.

Laying cable wires in a pipe includes the following steps:

• preparation of channels (strobes). At the junction of wires, external junction boxes are installed to provide open access;
• when laying the cable between rooms, holes are made in the walls using metal sleeves with plugs. Metal sleeves dampen the fire, providing a circuit closure.

When laying cable wires externally in pipes, the wires should not fit snugly against the surface of the pipes. They must be filled in half. Electricians recommend using copper pipes, because such products have more flexibility, which is important when laying. Cut wires must be processed and stripped. Pipes are installed on the wall surface with clamps.

Grounding and RCD

Installation of grounding in wooden houses is mandatory according to all requirements and standards for the operation of household electrical appliances.

When grounding, do the following:

1. They dig a recess (40 centimeters) in the form of an equilateral triangle with sides 1 meter long;
2. In the corners of the recess, metal products or corners are dug in, then they are fastened together with a welding machine;
3. A grounding conductor is passed through the pin hole, and then it is fixed with a nut;
4. All grounding elements of the cables are connected to the bus, which has a greenish wire color.

The installation of an RCD in a private house plays the role of protection against electric shock in cases of leakage.

Starting and checking the operation of the electrical wiring

When all electrical appliances are connected and the installation is completed in full, it is necessary to measure the resistance of the electrical wiring in a wooden house. This process is necessary in order to ensure that the insulation is not damaged.

Resistance measurements are carried out regularly, with a consistency of about once every three years. Resistance measurements will help identify imperfections and help keep the building from short circuits leading to fire.

After completing the installation of electrical wiring on your own, it is necessary for a competent examination of the entire complex of installation work. Electricians measure the resistance of the insulation and the grounding conductor.

After the work, specialists issue a protocol that confirms the functionality of the entire system. This document should be presented when sealing the electric meter. Most often, for clarity and to facilitate repairs, a diagram indicating the location of the main machines is glued onto the electrical panel.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house must be done taking into account all the rules. Properly executed installation of wiring from high-quality materials will ensure a long service life. In order to competently perform the entire amount of electrical work, read the diagram and correctly calculate the amount of materials and cable footage.

If you are not sure that you can handle the work yourself, invite specialists, because your safety and the safety of property depend on the competent installation and connection of the electrical network in your home.

What is attractive idea of ​​building a wooden house? This is the ecological purity of materials that can provide a comfortable and healthy microclimate in the premises of the dwelling and, of course, the desire of homeowners to follow the traditions of Russian architecture. The modern building materials market allows you to build a house made of profiled and glued beams, as well as rounded logs. In contrast to all the advantages inherent in houses made of wood, there is a problem with the arrangement of electrical wiring. The option of open wiring laid in cable channels does not always meet the requirements of an attractive interior design, the homeowner is faced with the question of how to make hidden wiring in a wooden house with his own hands. We will talk about this further.

Advantages of concealed wiring

The indisputable advantages of installing hidden wiring in a wooden house are:

1. The absence of cable channels on the walls, which adversely affect the premises and significantly complicates the process of applying wallpaper.
2. Minimization of the risk of mechanical damage to cables and wires.
3. Possibility of replacing the cable laid in the pipe.
4. A high degree of electrical fire safety, provided that the installation work is correctly performed in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documents.

Special security requirements

Hidden installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house is very complicated, it requires strict compliance with fire safety standards, requirements of the PUE and compliance with GOST R50572 1-93. A person who does not have experience in electrical installation should not try to do this work with his own hands. The homeowner, who invited specialists for the arrangement, needs to know the basic provisions on installation methods in order to control the progress of work and in no case take this material as a step-by-step instruction.

When designing a house electrical network diagram, the main emphasis is on ensuring fire safety, even if this goes against the aesthetic component. The finished project must be agreed with specialists. The hidden wiring scheme should provide for a minimum of turns in the electric line. Considering the high probability of ignition of wooden structures, the wiring must be laid in such a way that even a meager section of the electric main does not come into contact with wood. The cable must be laid in steel or copper pipes. It is allowed to lay electrical wiring in a corrugated metal hose, as well as in PVC corrugation, provided that they are protected with plaster or asbestos gasket.

The diameter of the pipe is selected taking into account the fact that the hidden electrical wiring laid in it should occupy 40% of its internal cavity, the thickness of its walls should correspond to the cross section of the conductive wires. Pulling an electric line through pipes can cause mechanical damage to its shell, therefore, after each such operation, it is necessary to carry out. Special requirements are imposed on the brand of the cable, its sheath must be made of non-combustible three-layer material, and the marking of domestic samples must necessarily contain the letter symbols "NG". For example, VVGng-p. The imported analogue is the NYM cable.

Pipes must be securely joined by threading, welding or soldering. Places of interior transitions, as well as installation points for wiring elements, should be equipped with metal boxes or glasses wrapped with asbestos and fixed with alabaster plaster. More details about that, we talked about in a separate article.

Mounting Features

The most time-consuming operation when laying hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house is the installation of pipes in the body of the wall. The process is quite laborious, requiring the greatest possible accuracy and precision. For the production of these works, special practical skills and a special high-tech tool will be required.

In order to insert insulating pipes into the walls, drilling will be required, both horizontally and vertically. Vertical holes are drilled in the process of laying the frame, horizontal when the walls are already erected. After the pipes are fixed in the body of the wooden walls, a wire is inserted into them, which will serve as a conductor for pulling the wire. The seats are carefully cut to fit the dimensions of the wiring elements, insulating metal boxes are attached to them.

An alternative option is wiring over the floor. Is it possible to avoid such a laborious process associated with the rate of pipes in the walls? Many homeowners, when arranging hidden electrics in a wooden house, practice laying wiring along the ceiling in the attic. The fire safety requirements for this method of electrical installation remain the same, the electrical main in the attic is insulated with metal pipes or trays, as soon as the descents to the switches and sockets are carried out through strobes or vertical drillings in the walls, as shown in the photo below:

Another option is hidden wiring in plaster. You can go the simplest way and lay the wiring between the layers of plaster. The method is primitive and not expensive, but not very safe. The plaster actively absorbs moisture, and also cracks over time, which is why it loses its insulating properties.

Useful information

For laying hidden wiring on wood, experts recommend, developed in Germany, with three-layer insulation made of non-combustible material. The sheath is so strong that it can be laid without PVC corrugations.

The home electrical network must have a TN-S or insulation system, which makes it possible to ground metal pipes, trays, boxes and boxes.

It is better to equip the electrical facilities of the house with protection against short-circuit currents, as well as with RCD functions.

Now you know how hidden wiring can be done in a wooden house with your own hands. We hope that our installation tips, as well as the rules and requirements provided, helped you understand the whole essence of the work!

materials

Installation of equipment in the shield

Having completed the external wiring of a wooden building, it is customary to bring the input cable through a metal sleeve into the room. To receive electricity and distribute it in the house, an input distribution board is used, which must be installed in safe places to ensure free access.

The shield must not be installed in rooms with high humidity.

Residual current devices and circuit breakers are installed in the shield. Particular attention is paid to the selection of automation. It is recommended to use products only from well-known and reliable manufacturers.

Laying the internal network

Internal wiring in a wooden cottage is considered a guarantee of the safety of residents. Unskilled electrical wiring very often causes fires. There are two methods of wiring inside a wooden building - open and hidden. By these names, the appearance of these postings is clear.

Open installation method

Of the two ways, open wiring in a wooden house is safer. In addition, the implementation of such electrical work will be cheaper. Wires are laid along the inner surface of the building, attached to ceilings, walls and other structural elements. You can hide the cable in various ways: by designing it with a retro cable or by placing it in a PVC box.

Open wiring in a wooden house: the cable is placed in self-extinguishing channels

Wiring is laid in self-extinguishing channels. A modern assortment of such products allows you to choose the desired color of the box, which imitates wood, for any design. Such boxes are usually used in houses made of clapboard and rounded logs, where the walls have a flat surface.

Wiring in a cottage using a retro-braided cable is another method of outdoor laying material. The cable looks like a twisted cord and is fixed on ceramic insulators. This installation technique is considered safe because the cable has an outer insulation of natural silk and two of PVC plastic. The main advantage is the gap between the surface and the cable. In addition, this type of wire is able to decorate any log house.

Features of hidden wiring

Concealed installation of electrical wiring is characterized by rather inaccessibility of wires in the case of modernization and repair of housing, higher prices for services and much more time required for work. However, the lion's share of customers prefer this technique, referring to the aesthetic appeal. The owners of wooden cottages do not want to spoil the interior and expensive finishes of their homes with electrical panels and wires.

Hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house is usually laid at the stage of assembling the house. To comply with all safety standards, the cable must be enclosed in a painted metal or galvanized pipe. All lifts to lighting fixtures, switches and sockets are made in special openings.

Hidden wiring in a wooden house is a very complex and expensive process, justified only by aesthetics.

When installing electrical networks in wooden houses, it is recommended to comply with certain requirements and use special materials to ensure maximum safety and protection against fires. In the ceilings of a wooden building, the cable is placed in pipes made of non-combustible plastic, and it is ensured that there is no mechanical impact on the pipe and cable.

Hidden electrical wiring can be located in grounded metal hoses and metal pipes. Log houses are subject to "shrinkage", so it is recommended to take this into account, not allowing the logs to affect the wiring in metal hoses. The passage of the wire through the wall through is carried out through special metal sleeves. Both methods of wiring installation have advantages and disadvantages, so a combined wiring technique is often practiced.

Marking devices, shields, cables

After completing the power supply project, you need to mark the cable lines and places for the location of switches, sockets, dimmers, shields and lamps. The markup must be carefully approached so that in the future it is not necessary to redo the work performed. The wiring in a wooden house should be planned so that the cable routes do not interfere with the installation of furniture in the future.

The most harmonious and aesthetic will look like a wire in cable channels. You can choose any pattern any shade under the tree. For such channels, you immediately need to buy tees, plugs, adapters. And although the price of these parts is twice as high as the boxes themselves, it is not advisable to save money, since no one will perfectly fit the inconsistent places of the boxes.

When buying channels, you should pay attention to the wall thickness and the lock of the box. Carrying out work on the installation of wire in miniature boxes, which have thin walls and double locks, electrical installation companies do not think that in most situations, maintenance of electrical wiring in such boxes provokes a break in the locks if the channel cover is opened.

To add a cable to the box, you will have to buy new channels and re-wire the wiring and boxes. A double lock requires the use of a specialized tool that can open the cover, but not all electricians think about this at all. It is better to choose a box with a technologically advanced profile geometry, large walls and a single lock.

When the wiring diagram in a wooden house has been studied, and the marking of the cable lines has been completed, you can take on the wiring of switches and sockets. All switches, dimmers and sockets, sconces and lamp bases must have a platform made of metal for mounting an electrical installation product to the ceiling or wall, because wiring electrical equipment on metal platforms is the most fireproof option.

After installing all the sites, you should start installing cable ducts. No matter how accurate the eye of a specialist is, it is necessary to perform all electrical work with the help of a level.

Passage through wooden surfaces

All passages of wiring through wooden walls, partitions, bases must be carried out through pipes made of metal, which are called bushings. Before proceeding with the wiring of wires through combustible walls, it is recommended to drill them, then insert a metal sleeve into the hole so that its edges extend from both sides of the combustible base by at least 1 centimeter.

It is recommended to pay special attention to ensure that such sleeves are equipped with plastic bushings at the edges that can protect the wire from cuts during installation and further operation of the power supply system, in other words, they will keep the cable insulation from damage. After that, the cable channel must be mounted in such a way that the end of the metal sleeve enters the box.

How to choose an electrical cable

Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house requires a specific cable. The wire for power supply of a private house should be bought with the “NG” index, which means “cable that does not support combustion” and with the designation “LS”, which stands for “low smoke emission”. It is preferable for wiring in a wooden building to choose a wire that meets all existing fire safety requirements, and also has all the necessary quality certificates.

The choice of wiring section depends directly on the power that the electrical equipment consumes. Designers usually lay in their power supply projects 3 by 1.5 millimeters for lighting, and 3 by 2.5 millimeters for groups of outlets. To organize the power supply of electric stoves, you need a wire with a cross section of at least 6 millimeters square. Don't skimp on the cable. Outlet lines must be calculated with a minimum number of outlets that are located on the same group. If a wire is laid from the shield to the block, which consists of 4 sockets, then it is not recommended to connect anything else to it. Only then the wiring will last for many years. The link between the cable cross-section and the power of electrical appliances can be found in the corresponding tables.

After doing such work as wiring in a wooden house, you must immediately measure the insulation resistance of the wiring.

This manipulation is done to make sure that the conductor insulation is not damaged during installation work. Such electrical measurements are recommended to be carried out every 3 years to protect the wooden house and its easily combustible bases from short circuits in the wiring.

Video about electrician in wooden houses

Thus, the problem of installing electrical wiring is as follows: often inexperienced craftsmen believe that the cable in a wooden structure should be the same as in a simple apartment. This is unacceptable, because the wiring of a wooden structure must be distinguished by increased fire safety characteristics. If you complete the installation work according to the above instructions, the wiring in your cottage will last for many years.