Green tomatoes against late blight. Late blight on tomatoes: how to recognize the disease in a timely manner and what to treat for effective treatment. Protecting tomatoes from late blight in the greenhouse

Green tomatoes against late blight. Late blight on tomatoes: how to recognize the disease in a timely manner and what to treat for effective treatment. Protecting tomatoes from late blight in the greenhouse

22.07.2019 Boilers

Late blight on tomatoes This is the most harmful disease of tomatoes. How to treat plantings against late blight? What effective modern chemical and biological products should I choose? Do folk remedies help against late blight on tomatoes and which ones are used? Prevention measures to prevent the appearance of late blight on your site in the future. What varieties of tomatoes are resistant to late blight, so as not to repeat mistakes?

Late blight or late blight (pathogen Phytophthora infestans) – fungal disease well known to every gardener.

Late blight is the most insidious disease of tomatoes, capable of causing significant damage or even destroying almost the entire tomato crop. Therefore, it is important to prevent the spread of late blight on tomatoes and pay attention to prevention.

But if they have already appeared signs of late blight on leaves or even fruits, urgent measures need to be taken to save the crop.

We will not repeat ourselves about the main signs of late blight, because you can read the following articles on our website in more detail about this:

Fighting late blight on tomatoes

The earlier the disease is detected, the greater the chance of saving your tomatoes and avoiding the spread of the disease. At obvious signs late blight plant impossible to cure. The main thing is to delay the spread of infection, otherwise you may lose the entire harvest. Diseased leaves must be removed immediately upon detection. This must be done extremely carefully, as fungal spores can get on healthy plants. If there are buds on infected bushes, they need to be cut off, since the ovaries become diseased faster than the fruits.

Treatment must begin with the immediate collection of all unripe fruits. Sort out whole ones that have not yet become infected with the disease and place them in hot (about 65°C) water for 2-3 minutes. Then the tomatoes must be thoroughly wiped, dried and left at room temperature. Otherwise, there is a risk of losing the entire harvest.

Next stage- treating plants with a late blight remedy.

How to treat tomatoes against late blight in a greenhouse

Preparations used for late blight: , Hom, Ordan, Oksikhom, Quadris, Profit Gold, Revus. Repeat the treatment once every 7 days (the number of treatments is according to the instructions for the drug).

From biological products are used : Alirin B, Gamair, Fitosporin M, Trichodermin.

Very effective use against late blight in a special greenhouse tobacco checker. The bomb is burned in a greenhouse containing infected tomato bushes.
Interesting video about tobacco shank.

Treatment of tomatoes against late blight in open ground

The same fungicides are used ( , Hom, Ordan, Oksikhom, Quadris, Profit Gold, Revu), but they are used in a stronger solution concentration. All recommendations for the use of drugs for open or buried ground are indicated in their instructions.

Preparations against late blight of tomatoes

Treatment of tomatoes against late blight can be carried out as follows: biological products, so and chemicals. (fungicides). Biological products are somewhat weaker than chemical ones, but safer. Disease control chemicals may persist in fruit tissue up to 30 days.

IN Lately Folk remedies are often used to treat tomatoes against late blight. Let's look at what and how to treat tomatoes with preparations.

Biological products against late blight

There are more modern and environmentally friendly methods of combating late blight and other fungal diseases - with the help of biological preparations. They contain living microorganisms that feed on fungal spores. And if chemical plant protection products suppress almost all the simplest soil fungi, including useful ones, then biological preparations do not allow pathogenic fungi to spread.

Among the biological products against late blight, the following are used:

Alirin-B- a biological preparation against plant diseases, contains the bacteria Bacillus subtilis. Consumption rate for late blight: 2 tablets per 10 liters of water when watering plants, and 2 tablets per 1 liter of water when spraying. Repeated treatment after 5-7 days, up to 3 treatments in total.
Gamair- biological preparation against late blight, drug consumption - 1 tablet per 5 liters of water when watering, and 2 tablets per 1 liter of water when spraying. Treatments are repeated every 7 days, three times.
Fitosporin-M- biofungicide in the form of a dark brown paste, liquid or powder. In gardening, either powder or paste is used. (more details below)

Chemicals against late blight on tomatoes

Bordeaux mixture. A contact action product that has been tested for years. Excellent protection for tomatoes from fungus. In addition, the composition effectively helps in the fight against the most common diseases.
Oksikhom(copper oxychloride + oxadixil) is a contact-systemic fungicide against late blight. Dilute 1 packet (4 grams) per 2 liters of water. Plants are sprayed as necessary up to three times with an interval of 10-14 days.
Ordan– (copper oxychloride + cymoxanil) – in the form of a wetting powder. Spray twice with an interval of 7-14 days, at the rate of 25 g per 5 liters of water.
Ridomil Gold(mancozeb + mefenoxam) - a combined fungicide against late blight, very effective remedy, for personal households is available in sachets of 10 g. You need to dilute 1 sachet (10 g) per 2 liters of water. This is enough to process 40 square meters. m. planting tomatoes. Spray the first time when the tops of the bushes close in the beds, the second time after 10-14 days.
Quadris– a new systemic product with a wide spectrum of effects that can protect plants from many diseases. It belongs to a new class of funds - strobilurins. The composition, as soon as it hits the foliage, suppresses painful pathogens. Its effect helps stop the spread and development of infections in the beds. The drug belongs to Hazard class 2, so you need to use it carefully, following the instructions for use.
Acrobat. Today it is used from late blight more often. The product is especially popular in the southern regions of the country. Fungal bacteria have not yet been able to acquire resistance to this product.

Effective remedies for late blight on tomatoes

At severe defeat plants can be helped by spraying tomatoes with a solution of potassium chloride. This method has long been successfully used by a famous gardener. Kizima Galina Alexandrovna.

To prepare the solution, you need to dilute 200 ml (1 bottle) of a 10% preparation in 2 liters of water. Both the fruit and the stalk should be sprayed

Also effective is the method of burning special tobacco checker. This method is suitable only for greenhouses(see video above).

Folk remedies for late blight on tomatoes

Iodine for late blight on tomatoes

If signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to immediately spray the plantings with a solution of 5% iodine. For a bucket of water (10 l), 1 jar (10 ml) is enough. After a few days, the treatment must be repeated.

Milk and iodine for late blight

Recipe 1: For 10 liters of water - 1 liter of low-fat milk + 20 drops of iodine. Treatment of plants with this composition can be carried out once every 5-7 days.

Recipe 2: Pour 1 liter of skim milk into 10 liters of water and add 15 drops of iodine. The resulting solution is sprayed on the plants every 2 weeks. This iodine-milk preparation not only kills germs, but also accelerates the growth of green pets.

Late blight serum

Serum from sour milk diluted with water in a ratio of 1:1 and from the beginning of July the plants are sprayed every 2-3 days.

Boric acid from late blight

To prevent disease, seedlings are sprayed with 0.5% boric acid immediately after planting. The treatment is repeated every fourteen days with a one percent solution until the tomatoes begin to ripen.

Trichopolum from late blight of tomatoes

This medicinal product(and its analogue - Metronidazole) can be bought at the pharmacy. 1 tablet of Trichopolum is dissolved in 1 liter of water and the tops are sprayed with this liquid once every 2 weeks. The drug is quite effective against the causative agent of late blight. But gardeners should be aware that the use of medicines in professional agriculture is prohibited. And there are good reasons for this.

Soda for late blight

Using a soda-soap solution against late blight:

For 1 l. warm water, add 1 tbsp. vegetable oil, 1 glass of liquid cosmetic or laundry soap. Stir, add 2 tbsp. baking soda.
Treat the soil around the plant and the tomatoes themselves once a week until late blight disappears.
You can enhance the effect of the solution by adding 0.5 matchbox of copper sulfate to the mixture. Seedlings can be sprayed with this solution once a week.

Copper wire against late blight of tomatoes

The most common way to combat tomato late blight is by spraying with fungicides that contain copper (Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Peak, HOM - copper oxychloride, and others).

Copper is a trace element that, among others, is necessary for every plant. As part of oxidative enzymes, it enhances metabolism, increases chlorophyll content, and improves immunity. But the most important quality is that copper cannot be tolerated by fungi, which include late blight - late blight.

Recently, many people have been recommending the use of copper wire. Opinions are contradictory, but how does this affect tomatoes? The plant is injured and the trunk is pierced at the very bottom of the stem. In fact, the tomato body mobilizes in order to somehow overcome the problem and successfully bear fruit, and begins to work “for seeds” - this is such a program for all plants, if wounded, immediately switch to abundant fruiting (that’s why the advice is so common - an apple tree doesn’t bear fruit, kill nail in it).
But whether copper is involved as an element for feeding the bush is a controversial issue.

The technology for performing this operation is clearly visible in this video:

Basic methods of combating late blight of tomatoes

The main methods are preventing its appearance on your site. What needs to be done to avoid the danger of diseases in tomatoes in the future and have good harvest without unnecessary worries.

The season will end soon, which means it's time to think about the tomato harvest in next year. Therefore, you need to know exactly and carry out measures to prevent late blight of tomatoes on your site. And even if your tomatoes were not affected by late blight this year, the insidious fungus can come either from seedlings or from other crops. In any case, we advise you to study preventive measures.

Choosing a location, proper care and the best neighbors

Maintain crop rotation - grow tomatoes for no more than 4 years in one place.
Do not plant next to or after potatoes, eggplants and peppers.
The best predecessors are cucumbers, onions, carrots, beets, turnips or cauliflower;
Grow disease-resistant and early varieties of tomatoes.
Potatoes must be treated against late blight. Since from it late blight spreads throughout the entire area.
Ventilate the greenhouse regularly to avoid condensation.
Fungal diseases develop well when high humidity, and in dense plantings.
Water at the roots so that water does not get on the stems and leaves.
Mulch the soil, do not allow the soil to become waterlogged.
Regularly remove shoots and lower leaves.
When pinching, treat the instrument with a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.
If the disease spreads, burn the infected tops and disinfect the greenhouses.
Do not grow in low-lying areas, there is more wet air and soil.
Do not apply nitrogen fertilizers in the second half of the growing season. Excess nitrogen promotes the development of late blight
You can plant onions, garlic, marigolds, calendula, and mustard next to the blowing plants.

Protecting tomatoes from late blight in the greenhouse

Temperature changes in the greenhouse create favorable conditions for the development of late blight. Most often this happens at the end of summer. Falling dew increases the chances of late blight several times. Therefore, during the daytime, the greenhouse must be ventilated periodically.

Plants need to be watered in the first half of the day so that the moisture is absorbed into the soil or evaporates during the day. If the weather is damp and cloudy, it is better not to water the tomatoes at all.

Prevention of late blight on seedlings

Plant protection from late blight and other diseases should be carried out at different stages: soaking seeds, when planting seedlings, regular treatment of planted plants.

How to fight folk remedies with late blight on tomatoes

How to properly combat late blight on tomatoes

Tomatoes, like all vegetables that grow in our beds, are subject to a variety of diseases caused by fungi and bacteria. One of the most common among them is late blight. Although it will cause a lot of problems for tomatoes, it is still possible to fight and overcome it.

To combat late blight, a lot of both folk and chemical remedies are used.

Chemicals for treatment and protection

To the common ones chemicals include:

Antibiotic Trichopolum. 10 tablets of this product are dissolved in 10 liters of water and sprayed on the bushes. The treatment is carried out for the first time when the tomatoes are at the stage of ovary formation, and then the procedure is repeated 2 times a month.
Iodine. This is an antimicrobial substance. That’s why gardeners love to prepare a milk-iodine solution, which can easily help you get rid of late blight. To prepare it, take 10 liters of water, a liter of milk and 20 drops of iodine.
Zelenka. Dissolve 40 drops of this product in water and spray the tomatoes with it.
Potassium permanganate solution. This product is an excellent antiseptic for seeds. They are placed in a gauze bag and immersed in this solution for 40 minutes. After this, rinse with water and dry thoroughly.

Antibiotic Trichopolum

Traditional medicines

Effective folk methods include:

Garlic infusion. To prepare it, take 200 g of chopped garlic and dissolve it in a glass warm water. After 24 hours, the substance is filtered and poured into 10 liters of water, adding a gram of fermented potassium. For treatment, you need to spray the tomatoes.
Milk solution or whey. Any of these dairy products is diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio and, starting in July, tomato bushes are regularly sprayed with this protective agent.
Salt solution. They need to process and protect the still green tomatoes. This product forms a kind of film that will prevent the penetration of infection. To prepare it, a glass of salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water.

Garlic infusion

As for planting in a greenhouse, tomatoes must be planted alternating with cucumbers.

Soil in the greenhouse is a must in the fall. disinfect with copper sulfate. If the plants have already been infected with late blight, then the soil in the greenhouse should be removed about 5 cm thick.

It should also be remembered that evaporation occurs in the greenhouse and stale air is present, and this has a beneficial effect on the development of bacteria. Therefore, it is imperative to regularly ventilate the greenhouse to protect the plants from disease.

Outdoor care

Plants should not be planted too densely to avoid rapid late blight infection. But if there is not too much space in the greenhouse, then the tomatoes should definitely pick off old leaves, because they are favorite place habitat of this disease.

To prevent an outbreak of late blight, it is necessary, first of all, to follow the watering rules. There is no need to pour water on the leaves. It is necessary to water the plants at the roots.

To prevent the appearance of late blight, tomatoes should be watered only at the root.

If it has already happened that the tomatoes could not resist this disease, then treatment to save them should be carried out provided that there was no rain for a day. You need to spray tomatoes in the evening or in cloudy but dry weather.

Seedling care

Be sure to strengthen the immunity of tomato seedlings before planting them in the ground. To do this, resort to the following measures:

Before planting, plants are treated 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture;
after half a month, arcerides;
after another half a month with foundationazole;
after this, alternate the last 2 remedies.

Bordeaux mixture Arceride Fundazol

Very effective in the fight against late blight are:

Ridomil gold. It protects the tomatoes from the outside and prevents fungi from penetrating into the tissues. To prepare this solution, you need to take 10 grams of the product and dilute it in 4 liters of water. They begin to treat plants with it during the growing season, and then repeat it every half month.
Thanos. This drug has many advantages, since it is resistant to rinsing and has therapeutic effect, killing mushrooms. To prepare it, take 12 g per 10 liters. Spraying is carried out according to the same scheme as Ramidol Gold.
Revus. It is also resistant to precipitation and has a healing effect. 6 ml are diluted in 5 liters of water and sprayed on plants, starting from the growing season. Treatment is carried out 3 times every 2 weeks.

Ridomil Gold Thanos Revus

Of course, as in the case of other diseases, it is easier to carry out prevention than to endlessly fight late blight.

The main preventive actions include the following measures:

Don't allow neighbors tomatoes with potatoes.
You should not plant these vegetables in the same area for several years in a row.
Also, do not plant tomatoes in the same place where eggplants, peppers and potatoes grew.
Do not water tomatoes too often or abundantly.
Absolutely necessary remove lower leaves tomatoes so that they touch the ground as little as possible.
Pull weeds as they retain moisture.
Do not oversaturate the soil with nitrogen fertilizers.
When very for a long time The soil retains moisture; weeding is necessary.
After harvesting, do not leave the tops to winter in the garden; they must be burned.

When growing in a greenhouse, it is necessary to avoid proximity to potatoes.

Detecting signs of late blight on tomatoes is not at all difficult:

spots appear on the underside, after which leaves turn brown and fall off;
The shoots of the plant and its fruits also turn black;
At first the vegetables become hard, and then softer and softer until they begin to rot. So the whole fruit may be lost.

Late blight on leaves Damage to tomato fruits

When to treat for the first time

Tomatoes are processed for the first time 1 or 2 days before planting seedlings in open ground.

After planting, the plants are sprayed again after 12 days.

Studies have shown that oospores die in 50-degree heat, because if you keep the seeds about 2 hours at this temperature, they will be disinfected.

Remember that for planting it is better to use seeds that have been collected about 3 years ago. During this period, all viruses will die, and you will receive clean material.

Conditions for the development of the disease

Tomatoes are easily infected with late blight from potatoes, and there are also many conditions for the development of this disease.

The most common of them include:

heavy rains that last about 3 days;
sudden changes in temperature day and night with a difference of 8 to 12 degrees;
dew that appears from these temperature changes;
fog;
lack of sunlight and heat;
thickened plantings;
excess nitrogen.

Lack of heat and sunlight is one of the conditions for the development of late blight

Late blight does not develop in dry weather.

In the spring, before planting, you should definitely treat the soil to remove late blight. For this they take 3% copper sulfate and water the ground with it.

After which you should thoroughly loosen the soil. For this they use special device, which will help mix the top cover 25 cm thick. Tornado will be one of the best helpers for this. He has unusual shape and is very effective and easy to use.

And the final stage is watering the soil phytosporin. For this, 1 tbsp. The product is dissolved in 10 liters of water. This dose is calculated for 1 sq.m.

Be sure to remember that substances that contain copper can get into food, so they should only be used in early spring.

Is it possible to eat diseased fruits?

If you roll affected tomatoes into jars, they may spoil

Do not be afraid to eat tomatoes affected by late blight. The disease is not transmitted to people. However, black spots spoil the appearance of tomatoes and are very unpleasant to eat.

As for canning, it is not recommended to close these tomatoes.

Their acidity may increase, and various microorganisms will begin to multiply, which is why the taste of the tomatoes will be completely ruined.

Varieties resistant to infection

TO resistant varieties before late blight include: Brother's Gift, De-Barao, Vilina, Lyana, Roton.

As you can see, late blight is easy to deal with. You just need to choose the product you like and get to work. However, you should also adhere to the dosage, because exceeding the norm will harm the tomatoes themselves.

Source: http://profermu.com/ogorod/pomidory/borba-s-fitoftoroi.html

Late blight on tomatoes in a country greenhouse: how to fight and win

Late blight on tomatoes is a dangerous disease, especially when growing the crop indoors. How to properly fight late blight? What measures can be taken to prevent the development of the disease in a closed greenhouse?

Phytophthora of tomatoes - signs of plant infection

Late blight disease is caused by a simple fungus that is invisible to the human eye due to its microscopic size - Phytophthora infestans.

The smallest mushroom has an incredible ability to reproduce quickly.

In a short time, greenhouse tomato plantings may become infected with late blight, and hopes for a harvest will rapidly decrease.

Late blight can affect both ripe and green fruits

The disease usually develops on the lower leaves, which become covered with brown spots, and fungal spores develop on them in the form of white, thin fluff. The infection then takes over the main stems, making it impossible for all parts of the plant to receive water.

Lastly, late blight affects tomato fruits. Brown stains appear on them, the fruits mummify and rot. The disease develops even on unripe tomato fruits.

Attention! Intact tomatoes collected from a diseased plant cannot be stored - late blight can appear on these fruits at any time.

Typically, an outbreak of late blight in a greenhouse coincides with the onset of cold nights after a hot day. This temperature difference is typical for the second half of summer, just during the ripening of tomato fruits.

Tomato flowering affected by late blight

Infection of tomato plants with late blight can be dry (when all parts of the plant simply dry out) and wet (characterized by the development of rot). Rot on plants develops in inclement rainy weather.

Common causes of late blight on tomatoes

Failure to observe crop rotation in the greenhouse, especially when planting tomatoes after potatoes or when growing tomatoes in a greenhouse for several seasons in a row.
Late blight initially affects potatoes, so potato and tomato plantings should be separated, placing them at considerable distances.
There is a high threat of late blight development in greenhouses with dense plantings of tomatoes, with poor or complete lack of ventilation. Late blight on tomato leaves
Late blight often affects plants overfed with nitrogen.
Overwatering of plants also contributes to the development of the disease, especially in cold, rainy summers.
To prevent the threat of late blight infection of tomato plantings, you should water the plants at the roots, avoiding water getting on the stems and leaves.

Lesions on tomato bushes that look similar to late blight can also cause other diseases or violations of agricultural practices:

crown rot;
exposure of roots;
lack of boron and magnesium.

Preventive measures to prevent late blight diseases in tomatoes

The correct choice of seeds will help to guarantee the prevention of the development of tomato late blight in greenhouses. You should choose early tomato varieties, as the disease usually progresses in the second half of summer.
It has been noticed that tall varieties develop late blight less often than short varieties. Some tomato varieties are more resistant to late blight.
When growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, it is important to carry out timely pinching, removal of leaves and barren flowers.
Watering the plantings should be done in doses, strictly at the root, avoiding water getting on the leaves and stems of the plant. Overwatering tomato plants almost always causes late blight to develop.
Of great importance for prevention is compliance with crop rotation in the greenhouse, as well as the proximity of tomatoes to potatoes. It is not recommended to use greenhouse space for planting tomatoes for several years in a row.
Thickened plantings of tomatoes in a greenhouse are another reason for the development of late blight plant disease.
When planting tomato seedlings in a greenhouse, you should refrain from adding fresh manure and nitrogen fertilizers to the soil.
Timely loosening of the soil and mulching of plantings will help prevent the development of late blight disease in tomatoes.
Daily systematic ventilation of greenhouse complexes reduces the risk of late blight.
Plant remains of plants infected with late blight must be removed from greenhouses. Removed plants must be burned and the greenhouse must be disinfected with a solution of lime chloride.
After planting, tomato seedlings must be treated with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (0.5%). Preventive treatment of tomato seedlings is repeated after two weeks (1% solution).
Growing tomatoes are treated with Bordeaux mixture periodically, every 12 days, until the fruit begins to brown. Harvesting is possible 8-10 days after the last treatment.
It is allowed to treat with copper oxychloride (40 g per 10 liters of water), while fruit collection is possible 20 days after treatment.
Preventive measures against late blight include treating the soil with ash.

How to treat tomatoes infected with late blight?

Bordeaux mixture is an excellent remedy for treating tomatoes from late blight.

Plants infected with late blight can be treated with chemical preparations containing biologically active substances and folk remedies. However general requirement when carrying out treatments - suitable weather conditions.

Attention! Systemic spraying of tomatoes is carried out in dry, clear weather, at least 5 times per season. Therapeutic treatments are carried out in conjunction with plant feeding with preparations that strengthen the immune system of tomatoes.

Folk remedies for combating late blight of tomatoes

0.1 kg chopped garlic(you can use any part of the plant) infuse in 1 glass of water for 24 hours; filter; add the infusion to 10 liters of water, adding 1 g of potassium permanganate. Tomato plantings are sprayed several times with a garlic solution, starting from the period of ovary formation, after 10-12 days.

If you don't want to use chemicals, use garlic tincture

An effective preventative against late blight is milk serum, which is diluted in half with water. Processing tomato plants in a greenhouse can be done daily.

Once every 2 weeks, you can spray tomato bushes with a solution of regular milk (add 1 liter of skim milk and 20 drops of iodine to 10 liters of water).

Rotten hay Suitable for treating plants diseased with late blight: 1 kg of hay is poured into 10 liters of water, with the addition of 100 g of urea. Leave the solution for 4 days, filter and spray the tomatoes once every 2 weeks.

Total 100 g bakery yeast, diluted in 10 liters of water, will help to restrain the development of tomato diseases if you spray the bushes at the first signs of the disease.

Solution table salt- a means of combating late blight that is safe for fruits

It is useful to protect ripening tomato fruits from late blight with a solution table salt. To do this, dissolve 1 glass of salt in 10 liters of water. Spraying of green fruits is carried out monthly, 1 time.

When planting seedlings, you can wrap the roots with thin copper wire, adult plants are protected from late blight by “copper piercing,” when a piece of copper wire is inserted into the stem of an adult tomato plant.

Before flowering, tomato bushes can be treated once with a solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water).

A very common way to treat late blight is with Trichopolum: 1 tablet of the drug is dissolved in 1 liter of water. Spraying is carried out once every 2 weeks.

Treatment of infected tomato plants with chemicals

"Fitosporin" is a drug that helps neutralize late blight disease on tomatoes when grown in greenhouse conditions. The drug is used when planting seedlings: plants intended for planting in a greenhouse are dipped into the Fitosporin solution.

It is allowed to spill the soil with a solution of “Fitosporin” and add the drug to the water when watering. The dosage of the drug should be strictly observed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

How to properly prepare Bordeaux mixture: video

Late blight on greenhouse tomatoes: photo

Source: https://dachadizain.ru/bolezni/bolezny/fitoftora-na-pomidorax.html

How to fight late blight on tomatoes. Recipes and useful tips

Late blight often affects tomatoes, and therefore it is important for gardeners to protect their tomatoes in the second half of summer.

How to protect tomatoes from late blight, how to save diseased bushes? What drugs to use for late blight, and what folk remedies will help against the disease.

How to treat tomatoes in a greenhouse to protect them from late blight?

How to deal with late blight on tomatoes

What is late blight? Signs of illness

Therefore, late blight first affects potatoes, and then the spores fly to tomatoes.

Late blight begins with the appearance of dark brown spots on the leaves, then they spread to the stems and fruits. The lower leaves are affected first.

Stains may be different shapes and size. At the beginning of the disease, there is a whitish coating on the leaves.

Fruits become diseased through the stalk. At first they may remain clean, but during storage they also develop stains. brown spots. This disease can destroy entire tomato plantings in a few days.

Photo of late blight on tomatoes

Is it possible to take seeds from diseased tomatoes?

It is important that disease spores can remain on dry seeds. Only after heating for two hours at a temperature of 45-50°C can you be sure that the seeds are disinfected. Therefore, if seeds are taken from a diseased fruit, they need to be specially processed.

Conditions for the development of late blight

In dry, hot weather, late blight infection of tomatoes is minimized. This fungus does not like spores sun rays and inactive.

But during periods of rain and fog, when air humidity rises, they “wake up” and begin their harmful effects.

If it rains for more than two days, you can be sure that your tomatoes are already infected with late blight.

1.Usually late blight appears on tomatoes in August, after cold nights and foggy, damp mornings. But tomatoes can get sick earlier – in July. Favorable weather for the development of the disease is a temperature below +15°C and high humidity.

2.Dense plantings contribute to the appearance of late blight. Therefore, excess leaves need to be torn off to improve ventilation of the bushes.

3. Watering tomatoes over the leaves also helps them get sick. Therefore, late blight often appears in open ground after rainy, cold weather. It is worth watering the plants in the morning so that the moisture is well absorbed during the day and only at the root; the leaves should not be wetted.

4.Low temperatures– this is also a reason to prevent late blight in tomatoes.

If the weather is dry and sunny, then infection usually does not occur. The spores die in the sun.

The best treatment is disease prevention. We must try to avoid unfavorable conditions.

Other reasons for the development of late blight are:

abuse of nitrogen fertilizers;
lack of useful microelements copper, potassium, iodine, manganese in the soil;
The bushes are planted too densely.

How to save tomatoes from late blight - prevention

The first stage of prevention for the next summer's harvest begins in the fall, when the last harvest is harvested and the tops are pulled out. It must be removed from the garden and burned so that fungal spores do not infect young tomatoes a year later.
If there is excess lime in the soil, then you need to balance its composition by pouring sand into the holes.
Before planting, the soil must be disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Tomatoes love dry weather. Strong humidity in warm weather, and even faster in cool weather, leads to illness.

It starts from the lower leaves, where it accumulates more moisture. You need to constantly check the lower leaves and if they begin to darken, remove them immediately.

As already mentioned, it is necessary to remove excess leaves and shoots from tomatoes. The lower leaves are removed constantly until the first ripening cluster. Yellowing and drying leaves are also picked off. It is important to create good ventilation for tomato plantings.

You can cover the top of the rows of tomatoes with film or covering material so that it hangs over the sides without touching the ground. This will ensure ventilation and the tomatoes will be protected from the cold night dew.

Prevention of late blight can be called complete mulching of the soil under planting tomatoes.

Late blight first affects potato plantings, so tomatoes should not be planted next to them.

Also, a close relative of tomatoes and potatoes, eggplant, can also suffer from late blight and it is better not to plant it next to it.

In small areas, protection can be created from bush plants sown around the perimeter of the beds. For example: peas, string beans, corn.

A good preventative measure would be to spray the plantings and soil with biological preparations phytosporin and trichodermin even before the disease appears. They suppress the spread of diseases.

Photo of late blight on tomatoes

It is necessary to strengthen plants from a young age. Temper. It is enough to fertilize and feed (without fanaticism or excess, of course).

Water with infusion of ash while the fruits are ripening. So that they are strong and strong, then it will be easier for them to fight diseases.

But you should not feed nitrogen fertilizers (mullein, herbal infusions) in the second half of summer - this weakens the plants, they will get sick faster.

How to treat the soil after late blight

For prevention, water the soil with the preparations phytosporin and trichodermin. If there was a mass disease, then you need to burn all the diseased bushes and water the soil with a fungicide.

How to save tomatoes from late blight in a greenhouse

In the greenhouse, tomatoes are well protected from late blight. Even if it's cold and damp outside, they have many benefits.

The greenhouse creates its own climate, which can be regulated. Do not forget to ventilate, as well as about prevention.

It is necessary to frequently ventilate greenhouses so that excess condensation does not accumulate and the humidity is normal.

Do not thicken the plantings.
Trim off shoots and excess leaves.
Tie up bushes.
Mulch the ground.

Also, to protect tomatoes in a greenhouse, do not plant potatoes and open ground tomatoes next to each other so that spores from them do not get into the greenhouse.

At the end of June, you need to spray the tomatoes in the greenhouse with the biological product phytosporin for prevention. Constantly cultivate the land under tomatoes with it.

In the greenhouse, it is also necessary to disinfect its entire structure and soil in the fall. You can do this in several ways:

remove the top layer of soil 20 cm and start new soil;
bury the stems of dill, marigold and calendula deep into the ground so that they rot, fertilize and heal it;
treat the entire surface of the greenhouse with solutions of phytosporin or copper sulfate.

What to do with late blight on tomatoes if it appears in a greenhouse?

You should not use preparations with copper - after all, there is always a ripening crop in the greenhouse. Better to use traditional methods. The same infusions of garlic, onion or milk solution. They are described in folk recipes later in the article.

You can spray the tomatoes with just water and iodine. Take 10 ml of ordinary 5% iodine per bucket of water. Before use, you need to remove all yellowed and diseased leaves with dark spots. Spray the bushes and fruits completely. After 3 days, repeat the procedure.

To combat late blight in greenhouses, fumigation is used: a piece of natural animal skin or wool is placed in a container with hot coals, and all windows and doors are tightly closed. The smoke kills fungal spores and prevents them from multiplying further.

They also sprinkle the beds with ash after planting and a second time at the first ovary.

How to fight late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies

Garlic infusion

To prepare garlic infusion, take 200 grams of garlic (can be replaced with onions) and infuse it in a bucket of water for a day. After straining, diseased plants and tomatoes are sprayed. Repeat spraying every 2 weeks.

Milk solution or whey

Dilute milk in water (100 grams per liter) and spray the tomatoes. You can replace milk with kefir. Lactic acid bacteria prevent late blight from developing.

You can add a few drops of iodine to milk water. Such spraying will not only help against late blight, but will also serve as fertilizer for your tomatoes.

It is better to repeat every 2 weeks too.

You can spray tomatoes with a whey solution (diluted 1 to 1 with water) - the effect is the same as from a milk solution. This solution is good to use for prevention all summer. Without waiting for the disease to appear.

Salt solution

Popular wisdom also advises spraying tomato bushes with a solution of simple table salt (one glass per bucket of water). This solution protects tomatoes from various diseases; after drying, it forms a film on the fruit. After rains it is necessary to repeat spraying.

It is better to use all these methods to prevent the disease. If late blight is clearly visible on the bushes, then you will most likely have to use chemicals to combat it.

Photo of late blight on unripe tomatoes

Treatment of late blight on tomatoes in open ground

Copper helps well against late blight. Copper preparations are used to combat and prevent the disease. The drugs Hom, Polychom, Oxychom are used, they can be diluted directly into cold water in a watering can (according to instructions).

You can make the solution yourself. Add a bar of laundry soap for adhesion and a bag of copper sulfate to a bucket of water. You can also treat the bushes with infusion wood ash.

They must be used carefully. Only until the fruit begins to ripen. If the tomatoes are already starting to fill up, then chemicals cannot be used. Poison your harvest.

Varieties resistant to late blight

By by and large there are no such varieties. All tomatoes are affected by late blight.

Although last years Cherry varieties are being developed that can withstand late blight.

Now many new F1 hybrids are appearing, which manufacturers position as resistant to late blight. These are hybrids such as:

Blizzard
Budenovka
Dragonfly
Parterre
Pink dwarf
Raisa
Caspar
Kostroma

Alpha,
Amur standard,
Valentina,
Explosion,
Parodist,
Marisha,
Sanka

Early varieties for greenhouses:

Sugar plum raspberry,
Mandarin duck,
golden brush,
Poznan,
meal,
Sweet bunch

Photo of Cherry variety in a greenhouse

How to preserve harvested tomatoes from late blight

You need to keep them until warmed up, but not cook them. The hand usually tolerates this temperature a little. But it’s better to look at the thermometer and add hot water when cooling.

Then the tomatoes are dried and sent to ripen.

Is it possible to eat tomatoes with late blight?

After this heating treatment, the late blight spores die and these tomatoes are completely edible. Well, you won’t even want to eat diseased fruits - they are black. Green unripe tomatoes from diseased bushes can be used in winter salads and preparations.

Late blight on tomatoes. How to avoid: video

Now you know how to deal with late blight on tomatoes. And it is clear that the best treatment is prevention!

Sincerely, Sofya Guseva.

A few more interesting articles.

Treatment of tomatoes against late blight with organic means with photos

It is also important not to forget about preventive treatment. To do this, experienced gardeners recommend using active biological products, but they can be replaced (or alternated) with folk ones.

Planting of seedlings must be carried out in strict accordance with recommended planting patterns.
Sharp temperature fluctuations that are relevant for the end summer season, when with hot daytime weather there are often quite cool nights. At this time, a lot of dew usually falls, becoming an additional favorable source of moisture for the development of black rot.
Late blight on tomatoes - damaged plant

Every experienced vegetable grower knows what late blight is. This disease is easily recognized by the following signs:

Already in February, when the ground is still covered with snow, many gardeners begin to worry about the future harvest: they buy seeds, prepare planting boxes and greenhouses. Growing tomatoes from small grains, surrounding them with care, everyone hopes to get beautiful, juicy and ripe fruits as a result, but the dreams of some owners are not destined to come true. And it’s all because of the diseases that a short time destroy the plant. The question of how to deal with late blight on tomatoes is of interest to many, because the disease can negate all efforts and completely destroy the crop.

Late blight on tomatoes, treatment and main causes of infection

Try to spray the tomatoes with garlic infusion (chop 100 g of garlic cloves, add 2 liters of water, cover, leave for half an hour and pour this slurry over the fruits) so that late blight does not spread to the fruits. Or use a yeast solution to protect leaves and fruits (dilute 100 g of yeast in 10 liters of water).

Black spots appeared on the lower and then other leaves, which then began to increase, and a yellow spot formed around them?

Causes of fungal infection

Late blight of tomatoes treated with iodine and whey

When choosing what to spray tomatoes against diseases, you should pay attention to cheap and effective remedy: tincture of hay or rotten straw. To prepare it, you need to infuse it in 10 liters of water for 4 days with a handful of urea. Used once every 1.5-2 weeks.

Trichopolum. Treating tomatoes against late blight with this antibiotic gives excellent results. 1 tablet dissolves in 1 liter of water to spray the bushes.
Processing tomatoes against late blight: types of biological agents
The ideal time to water a tomato is the morning, but if the period is very dry, you can do it in the evening, after sunset. In this case, a significant part of the water will have time to be absorbed into the soil. It is important to irrigate so that the drops do not fall on the plant and fruits.
Weakened by ripening and growth, underfed tomatoes lose immunity to infection. Flaw useful elements(potassium, iodine, manganese) significantly increases the chances of late blight.

Prevention against infection

The late blight virus is surprisingly viable. Its invisible spores can be found anywhere: in the soil, on plant remains, seed material, all surfaces of greenhouses, gardening tools. Therefore, the main task of vegetable growers is to reduce the number of harmful spores, as well as eliminate any prerequisites for their further reproduction and development.

the back side of the sheets becomes stained;

Basically in July, problems begin with both greenhouse seedlings and those growing in open ground. It is during this period that late blight appears on tomatoes. How to deal with this disease and is it possible to save plants? Of course, it is best to carry out prevention in June; drugs such as Zircon and Fitosporin are suitable for this. Tomatoes growing in open ground are easier to save, since they can be treated with one of the solutions containing copper. After this, the fruits cannot be eaten for 3 weeks. In a greenhouse, you cannot spray the tops with copper solutions, since the tomatoes are used immediately.
How to save fruits if the entire bush is affected by late blight?
This is a terrible disease of tomatoes - late blight - a fungus that lives in the soil, but only if there is not enough copper in it. Hence the prevention of the disease: before planting, water the soil with copper oxychloride (hom, aspen, polychom) or copper sulfate. One tablespoon of the drug per liter of water for watering the soil or one teaspoon of the drug per 10 liters of water for spraying on the leaves (after spraying the fruits cannot be eaten for three weeks).
The fight against late blight on tomatoes is known in all countries of the world. In some of them, it is customary to dust greenhouse beds with a mixture of tobacco dust (a couple of glasses) mixed with ash (for one bucket). Also, in addition to the products mentioned, they often use solutions “Shining”, “Fitosporin-M” or “Baikal EM-1”.
Common salt diluted in 10 liters of liquid is suitable for processing large, but still unripe fruits; it is necessary to observe a frequency of up to 1 time per month.
Ash is also used together with medications; it is an invaluable source of a whole list of important substances (sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium). Plants are dusted with it seven days after planting and the procedure is repeated at the moment the ovaries appear.
Before treating tomatoes for diseases, it is necessary to understand the cause of the infection, then eliminate this factor, and only then proceed to choosing a preventative agent.
Convenient to use in greenhouse conditions drip irrigation. For this purpose, special hoses are used (for example, Cellfast Drip). It can be connected to a container with warm water and gradually moisten the soil throughout the day.

Prevention against late blight infection

Treatment of tomatoes against late blight. Biologically active drugs

Late blight on tomatoes - causes of fungal infection

The shoots are darkening;

How to save tomatoes from late blight without resorting to drugs hazardous to health? Alternatively, you can use 5% iodine, calculated at 1 ml per 1 liter of water. First, you need to completely tear off the affected leaves, these include yellow ones and those with black spots, then you need to generously spray the stem and fruits. Repeated treatment is carried out after 3 days. To prevent the solution from rolling off the leaves, you can add soap to it.

In case of severe late blight infection, diseased leaves should be removed and burned, and the fruits should be sprayed with a 1% solution of calcium chloride (the pharmacy sells a 10% solution of calcium chloride in 200 ml bottles). The bottle should be dissolved in 2 liters of water. The stalk should be sprayed especially carefully, since late blight penetrates the fruit through it.

Against late blight, you can preventively spray tomatoes with an infusion of the tinder fungus. To do this, grind 100 g of mushroom, pour boiling water over it, cover with a lid and cool. Then strain and immediately spray the tomatoes on the leaves. After 10 days, repeat spraying. In the North-West, it is recommended to do such preventive spraying in late June - early July. In any other region - at the moment of pouring the first flower brush.
Late blight of tomatoes, which requires treatment annually, can be considered successful if you managed to get a high-quality harvest this season. Even if some fruits became covered with black spots and had to be burned, it’s okay. On next year You can try other means that may be more effective.
Whey, which is diluted in equal proportions with water and 1-2 drops of iodine are added. Experienced vegetable growers use this product to spray tomatoes every day, starting in July and ending with complete harvesting.

Fighting late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies

Some gardeners recommend alternating various drugs, because the disease adapts perfectly if the same measures are taken annually. The first preventive spraying is best carried out immediately after planting the material. Common forest mushrooms become a convenient guide for determining the time of late blight activity: as soon as they appear, you need to carefully monitor the plants.

It is important to remember to regularly ventilate the greenhouse and avoid large accumulations of condensation if the greenhouse is film.

To prevent the disease from developing, it is necessary to prevent late blight on tomatoes and in the greenhouse. It consists of the following:
The appearance of late blight in areas can be caused by:
In some places the fruits turn black.
If you are interested in the question of how to combat late blight on tomatoes, then you should try mulching the soil under the plants. This method significantly reduces the chances of this disease occurring, because it is caused by spores of a microfungus that lives in the soil. If you are interested in how to deal with late blight on tomatoes in a safe way, then you should buy a 10% solution of calcium chloride at the pharmacy; you need to dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:4. The resulting preparation must be sprayed on the sepals of flowers and stalks, because from them late blight gets onto the fruits.
After harvesting tomatoes that are heavily affected by late blight, the fruits must be immersed for 10 minutes in a hot solution (40 °C) of pink potassium permanganate. Do not make the solution too dark - a burn will form on the skin of the fruit. Remove the fruits, wash with water and wipe dry. After this, they can be stored for storage, wrapping each fruit in paper. Then late blight will not pass from one fruit to another, if suddenly some fruit begins to deteriorate.

Treatment of tomatoes against late blight in greenhouses

A good prevention against late blight is systematic (once every two weeks) watering of plants on the leaves with a solution of “Fitosporin”.

No pesticides! Andrey Tumanov, the most famous gardener in the country, shares his tricks

Processing tomatoes against late blight in greenhouses

Prevention of late blight on tomatoes using folk methods perfectly prevents the appearance of black rot. Among the most famous is the treatment of tomatoes with whey and iodine, but there are other equally effective means.

Protecting tomatoes from late blight is carried out with the following biologically active drugs:

Bottom line

When high humidity You don’t have to do air watering at all. Instead, it is helpful to loosen the soil between the rows.

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How to save tomatoes from late blight?

If there is an excess of lime in the soil, it is necessary to begin to restore the natural balance by adding peat and pouring sand into the holes.

Soils with excess liming promote the growth of fungi. Most summer residents are afraid of oxidation of the soil, so they try in every possible way to saturate it with lime, which becomes the most common cause of late blight.

Late blight is a widespread and very dangerous fungal disease of nightshade crops. Cold and humid climates contribute to its appearance.

Knowing how to deal with late blight on tomatoes, you can save at least part of the harvest. At the first signs, you need to immediately pick off the unset flowers, because, on the one hand, they are a source of infection, and on the other, they draw juices from the bush, interfering with the ripening of the formed fruits. Next, you should remove all spoiled leaves, as well as the lower leaves. The plant should gradually get rid of them, and by mid-July only the top should be left, covering the last filling cluster.

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Sometimes gardeners insert a thin copper wire into the stem to prevent late blight. In my opinion, it is better to gradually saturate the plant with copper, spraying it 2-3 times during growth, starting with seedlings, weak solution copper oxychloride (1 g per 1 l). But from the moment of flowering this practice should be stopped.

Home garden|Garden, vegetable garden, cottage HOW TO SAVE TOMATOES FROM LATE PHTHORA

Before planting tomato seedlings in greenhouses, you must first carry out a thorough sanitation by removing accumulated cobwebs and dirt from the surfaces of roofs and walls (for the best effect, you need to wash the walls of greenhouses and greenhouses with a 1% manganese solution, you can add a little chlorine), and also completely getting rid of the remnants of last year's plants.

Garlic infusion with manganese. 100 g of chopped onions, arrows or leaves are infused in a glass of water for a day. This composition is filtered and diluted in 10 liters of water with the addition of 1 g of potassium permanganate. Treatment is carried out every 2 weeks.

Fitosporin. It is diluted according to the instructions. First, tomatoes are generously sprayed with the appearance of the very first ovary, and all further spraying is carried out every ten days of the month. This solution can also be poured directly into the holes in greenhouses before planting or added to water for irrigation.

The fight against late blight on tomatoes will be more effective if you systematically feed the plants with phosphorus, potassium and other solutions of beneficial microelements.

You should adhere to the rules of crop rotation and plant tomatoes after crops such as beets, cucumbers, onions, cauliflower, carrots or turnips.

Too dense plantings make it difficult to ventilate greenhouses and normal air access to plants in open areas. And a humid greenhouse environment is excellent for the life of fungal spores.

Preventive control of late blight on tomatoes in the greenhouse and in the open ground is constantly necessary, since infection spreads very quickly and can damage the entire crop.

At the end of the same month, you should pinch the tomatoes to stop their growth. In order for the fruits to ripen faster, it is necessary to create a stressful situation for the plant. To do this, you can tear off some of the roots, thereby reducing the supply of nutrients, reduce watering, and do not fertilize. Under such conditions, tomatoes will accelerate the ripening of fruits.

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Late blight often affects tomatoes, so it is important for gardeners to know how to protect their tomato crops. Late blight (or late blight) is the most common fungal disease of tomatoes and other nightshades (potatoes, eggplants), which manifests itself most often in cloudy, damp and cool weather. How to protect tomatoes from late blight, how to save diseased bushes, what medications to use, what folk remedies will help against the disease, how to prevent late blight from appearing in greenhouses and beds? Lots of questions! Let's try to deal with this formidable late blight and defeat it.

Signs of late blight

Late blight is a fungal disease, the spores of this fungus overwinter in the ground, but mainly spread in potato tubers, in which they survive the winter safely, and with spring planting wake up. Therefore, late blight first affects potatoes, and then the spores fly to tomatoes. Late blight begins with the appearance of dark brown spots on the leaves, then they spread to the stems and fruits. The lower leaves are affected first. The spots can be of different shapes and sizes. At the beginning of the disease, there is a whitish coating on the leaves. Fruits become diseased through the stalk. They may remain clean at first, but as they are stored they will also develop brown spots. This disease can destroy entire tomato plantings in a few days.

Conditions for the development of late blight

✿ Most often, late blight appears on tomatoes in August, after cold nights and foggy, damp mornings. But tomatoes can get sick earlier - in July. Favorable weather for the development of the disease is a temperature below +15°C and high humidity.

✿ Thickened plantings contribute to the appearance of late blight. Therefore, excess leaves need to be torn off to improve ventilation of the bushes.

✿ Watering tomatoes over the leaves also helps them get sick. Therefore, late blight often appears in open ground after rainy, cold weather.

✿ Low temperatures are also a reason to prevent late blight in tomatoes.

Prevention of tomato late blight

Tomatoes love dry weather. Strong humidity in warm weather, and even faster in cool weather, leads to illness. It starts from the lower leaves, where more moisture accumulates. You need to constantly check the lower leaves and if they begin to darken, remove them immediately. The lower leaves are removed constantly until the first ripening cluster. Yellowing and drying leaves are also picked off. It is important to create good ventilation for tomato plantings.

Prevention of late blight can be called complete mulching of the soil under planting tomatoes.

Late blight first affects potato plantings, so tomatoes should not be planted next to them. Also, a close relative of tomatoes and potatoes, eggplant, can also suffer from late blight and it is better not to plant it next to it.

In small areas, protection can be created from bush plants sown around the perimeter of the beds. For example: peas, string beans, corn.

A good preventative measure would be to spray the plantings and soil with biological preparations phytosporin and trichodermin even before the disease appears. They suppress the spread of diseases.

It is necessary to strengthen plants from a young age. Temper. It is enough to fertilize and feed (without fanaticism or excess, of course). Water with infusion of ash while the fruits are ripening. So that they are strong and strong, then it will be easier for them to fight diseases. But you should not feed nitrogen fertilizers (mullein, herbal infusions) in the second half of summer - this weakens the plants, they will get sick faster.

How to save tomatoes
from late blight in the greenhouse

In the greenhouse, tomatoes are well protected from late blight. Even if it's cold and damp outside, they have many benefits. The greenhouse creates its own climate, which can be regulated. Do not forget to ventilate, as well as about prevention.

✿ Do not thicken plantings.
✿ Trim off shoots and excess leaves.
✿ Tie up bushes.
✿ Mulch the ground.

Also, to protect tomatoes in a greenhouse, do not plant potatoes and open ground tomatoes next to each other so that spores from them do not get into the greenhouse.

At the end of June, you need to spray the tomatoes in the greenhouse with the biological product phytosporin for prevention. Constantly cultivate the land under tomatoes with it.

How to save tomatoes
from late blight in open ground

Copper helps well against late blight. Copper preparations are used to combat and prevent the disease. The preparations used are Hom, Polychom, Oxychom, they can be diluted directly in cold water in a watering can (according to the instructions).

You can make the solution yourself. Add a bar of laundry soap for adhesion and a bag of copper sulfate to a bucket of water. You can also treat the bushes with an infusion of wood ash.

If all folk remedies have been tried and do not help, then you have to use chemistry. There are a lot of different products in garden stores. The most effective ones are fungicides. Disease spores also adapt to different chemicals, so they will have to be alternated to have a different composition. They must be used carefully. Only until the fruit begins to ripen. If the tomatoes are already starting to fill up, then chemicals cannot be used. Poison your harvest.

Chemical remedies are also not a panacea. They should be used starting from the seedling stage and the treatments should be repeated several times. Especially if the summer is rainy and cold.

Treatment of late blight
on tomatoes in a greenhouse

You should not use preparations with copper - after all, there is always a ripening crop in the greenhouse. It is better to use traditional methods. The same infusions of garlic, onion or milk solution. They are described in folk recipes later in the article.

Traditional methods
combating late blight on tomatoes

Traditional methods of combating late blight on tomatoes are best used to prevent the disease. If late blight is already clearly visible on the bushes, then it is more effective to use chemicals to combat the disease.

Garlic infusion

Milk solution or whey

Dilute milk in water (100 grams per liter) and spray the tomatoes. You can replace milk with kefir. Lactic acid bacteria prevent late blight from developing. You can add a few drops of iodine to milk water. Such spraying will not only protect against late blight, but will also serve as fertilizer for your tomatoes. It is better to repeat spraying every 2 weeks.

Salt solution

Tomato bushes are often sprayed with a solution of simple table salt (one glass per bucket of water). This solution protects tomatoes from various diseases; after drying, it forms a film on the fruit. After rains it is necessary to repeat spraying.

Good day, dear friend! Our family loves tomatoes very much, so we grow them always and everywhere. Mom leaves a large plot of land in the garden and plants different varieties to enjoy a variety of flavors. My wife loves cherry tomatoes and even plants them in pots that stand on the windowsills.

This summer my mother had a great harvest. She looked after them all season, fertilized them, but as always, trouble crept up unnoticed. Some bushes were affected by late blight. It’s good that at one time she already had to deal with this problem and she knew what needed to be done.

Therefore, without wasting time, mommy processed all the plants and after all we enjoyed useful harvest. In this article you will learn: late blight on tomatoes, how to fight with folk remedies, the main causes of the disease, what to use for prevention.

Phytophthora on tomatoes: how to fight with folk remedies - proven methods

Late blight on tomatoes at the very beginning of the disease can be destroyed using less radical methods such as treating the garden with fungicidal preparations. Folk remedies for treating tomatoes against late blight may not be so effective, but they are harmless to the human body. How to save tomatoes from late blight using folk remedies?

Phytophthora on tomatoes: how to fight with folk remedies

Perhaps the most effective way Garlic is the only way to defeat this disease, so let’s start the story about how to fight late blight on tomatoes using folk remedies. There are several cooking recipes, and each deserves attention.

Their action is aimed at the same result, but perhaps one recipe will be more pleasant, or easier to prepare, than another.

I listen to 5 garlic mixtures for spraying tomatoes

0.5 kg chopped garlic + 3 liters of water.

It is necessary to infuse the solution for 5 days, placing it in dark place. Immediately before spraying, you need to take 0.05 liters and dilute it in 10 liters of water. Then add the same amount of laundry soap and process.

When the disease is just beginning to develop, an infusion prepared by mixing 0.1 kg of chopped garlic and 2000 ml of water will help.

It infuses for only half an hour, after which you can use the solution for spraying.

For the next recipe you need to add 150 g of chopped garlic to 10 liters of water, stir, strain and spray on the bushes.

A combination of garlic, pepper and mustard will also help.

You need to chop 0.2 kg of vegetable, add to it a tablespoon of the two above components in powder form, add water and leave for a day. Strain and add 10 liters of water. Processing is carried out every one and a half weeks.

You can also mix one and a half cups of chopped garlic and 2 g of potassium permanganate, dilute with ten liters of water and spray every 14 days.

Potassium permanganate is another folk remedy for combating late blight on tomatoes.

What folk remedies can be used to combat late blight on tomatoes without potassium permanganate? She is also quite popular among experienced gardeners. It is recommended to treat tomato seeds with a 1% solution of this substance before planting.

When young shoots are planted in open or protected ground, it is recommended to water the beds with a weak solution of potassium permanganate approximately once every 7 days.

Many experts also advise putting green tomatoes collected due to bad weather in a hot solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, then wiping them and putting them out for ripening.

Straw infusion

Pour a kilogram of rotten hay or straw into 10 liters of water, add a handful of urea and let it brew for 3-4 days. Strain the infusion and treat the tomatoes with it.

Yeast

Dissolve 80 g of yeast in a bucket of water and pour this solution over the tomatoes at the first symptoms of late blight.

Copper wire

Spraying tomatoes against late blight can be replaced by “copper piercing.” How to protect tomatoes from late blight using copper wire? The wire needs to be calcined over a fire or sanded, cut into pieces 3-4 cm long, insert such a piece into the stem of an adult tomato bush at a height of 10 cm from the soil and bend the ends of the wire down.

Never wrap the wire around the stem!

Some gardeners prefer to wrap pieces of copper wire around the roots of the seedlings before planting them in the garden. The fact is that microdoses of copper, enhancing oxidative processes, stabilizing the production of chlorophyll and stimulating oxygen metabolism, strengthen the plant’s immunity and make it resistant not only to late blight, but also to other infections.

Iodine for late blight on tomatoes

Having antimicrobial properties, iodine can serve as a good remedy for treating late blight on tomatoes. There are many recipes using iodine - choose any of the following:

To 9 liters of water add 1 liter of milk, preferably low-fat and 20 drops of iodine;
To 8 liters of water, add two liters of whey, half a glass of sugar and 15 drops of iodine tincture;
10 liters of water are mixed with one liter of whey, 40 drops of iodine are added alcohol tincture and 1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide.

All leaves and stems of tomatoes are carefully treated with the resulting solutions, especially on the underside.

You can also use solutions of fermented kefir and whey (1 liter per 10 liters of water) for preventive spraying against late blight, as in pure form, and with the addition of a small amount of sugar.

Water the tomato bushes regularly every week with such solutions, starting from the moment the buds form. Attention! A microelement such as boron also works well in the fight against late blight on tomatoes.

To use it you need 10 g boric acid dilute in 10 liters of hot water, cool until room temperature and spray the tomatoes. For the best effect, it is advisable to add 30 drops of iodine to the solution before treatment.

Finally, the following recipe is considered to be a remedy that effectively combated already visible manifestations of late blight on tomatoes:

Eight liters of water are heated to a temperature of +100°C and combined with two liters of sifted wood ash.
When the temperature of the solution drops to +20°C, 10 g of boric acid and 10 ml of iodine are added to it.
The mixture is infused for half a day.
Then dilute with water in a ratio of 1:10 and thoroughly spray all parts of the tomato plants.
Before treatment, it is necessary to remove all affected parts of the plants.

Ash solution against late blight on tomatoes

This treatment is carried out in three stages: as soon as the seedlings take root and begin to grow, before the tomatoes bloom and immediately before the first ovaries appear.

Add half a bucket of wood ash to 10 liters of water and leave for three days, stirring from time to time. When the composition has settled, the liquid must be drained, its volume brought to 30 liters and 30-35 g of liquid soap added to the composition.

Serum against late blight on tomatoes

Treating tomatoes against late blight with curdled milk serum also gives good results. Dilute the serum in a one to one ratio with water and from the first days of July spray the tomatoes at least every day.

Common folk methods of struggle:

Copper wire against late blight on tomatoes is used only as a preventive measure.

It is believed that sufficient copper content in the plant prevents the proliferation of harmful spores. To do this, take a piece of wire and cut it into pieces 3-5 cm long. All parts are thoroughly cleaned with sandpaper.

After that, the lower part of the stem of each tomato is pierced with wire, its ends are bent down, but not twisted around the stem. It is believed that this way the plant is saturated with copper, thereby eliminating the development of the disease.

Yeast is a common processing agent. You will need to mix 100 g of yeast (live) with 10 liters of water. The prepared mixture is sprayed onto the tomatoes.
You can prepare a solution of garlic and manganese.

The leaves, stems and garlic itself are crushed and poured; 1 cup of boiling water is required per 100 g of pulp. After a day, the mixture is filtered and diluted in 10 liters of water, adding a little manganese.

Each plant is treated with the resulting composition, the procedure is carried out 4 times per season.

The following composition includes whey or kefir and water in equal parts. You can treat the bushes with the mixture every day, but you should start only in July.

If it was not possible to prevent the development of the disease, characteristic brown spots become noticeable on the leaves, then the following folk recipes can help:

Iodine for late blight on tomatoes is a proven remedy for many. You need to take 10 ml of a five percent iodine solution and dissolve it in 10 liters of water. The composition needs to be sprayed on all tomatoes. The procedure must be repeated after 3 days.
You need to mix 200 ml of a 10% calcium solution with 2 liters of water, then carefully spray the affected areas of the plant.
Prepare a solution of 1 kg of salt and 10 liters of water. Before treatment, you will need to remove all diseased parts of the plant, and then spray the tomato bushes.

The solution forms a thin film on the surface of leaves, stems and fruits, which prevents further development diseases.

The pharmaceutical product Trichopolum can also help in the fight against late blight. You need to dissolve 1 tablet in 1 liter of water and spray the bushes. The procedure is repeated every 14 days.
Summer residents also use furatsilin; it can also help against late blight on tomatoes. 10 tablets of the drug are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The solution is used for spraying 3 times per season. The first - before the start of flowering, the second - when the ovaries appear, the third - at the moment of ripening of the first fruits.

Tomatoes are also treated with fungicidal preparations.

You can buy Fitosporin, Fundazim, Quadris, Fundazol, Ridomil, Previkur. Spraying with such products should be carried out in accordance with the attached instructions.

Copper sulfate

It is enough to add about 2 tablespoons of copper sulfate and a couple of drops of iodine to one bucket of water. Tomato bushes are processed once. In general, iodine can be added to almost all mixtures for treating plants, since in small doses it can have a disinfecting effect without harming organic matter.

You should not add a large dose of iodine, since increased concentration may burn tissue.

When transferred funds do not help fight fungal growths on tomatoes, you will need more concentrated chemicals, which can be purchased in specialized stores. It is better to first consult with sellers regarding what dosage is required for a particular variety, as well as based on the current signs of late blight.

If you treat tomato seedlings in a timely manner with the indicated folk remedies, then treatment for late blight should be successful. It is important to remember that rain can completely wash away substances, so a repeat procedure will be required.

When prevention methods in the current season did not have an effect, then it is advisable to use a different method in the next one.

When using the same remedy to combat a disease year after year, its effectiveness is significantly reduced. In this regard, it is recommended to periodically change medications and agents.

After you have successfully treated the seedlings for late blight, you need to treat the area. The earth is watered with “Trichodermin” and “Fitosporin”, which should supervise the remains of fungal spores in the soil. This precaution will prevent possible illness next season.

If your area is affected by a mass disease vegetable crops, then all the bushes will definitely need to be burned and the ground sprayed with a fungicide.

This method of control is very effective if everything is done correctly, without leaving untreated corners of the garden. Carefully inspect the fruit when harvesting a ripe harvest. If the tomatoes show typical signs of late blight, it is better to throw them away so that the entire crop does not spoil during storage.

Before rolling tomatoes, be sure to rinse them thoroughly and inspect them carefully again.

Other drugs

There are several other drugs that are actively used by people to combat late blight on tomatoes.

Dissolve 10 Trichopolum tablets in a 10-liter bucket of water and add 15 ml of brilliant green. The resulting solution can be used to treat tomato bushes both during flowering and when the first symptoms of late blight appear.
In 10 liters of water, mix one teaspoon of copper sulfate, boric acid, and magnesia. Add potassium permanganate on the tip of a knife and a little laundry soap (can be replaced with 3 tablespoons of liquid soap).

Source: "floristics.info; krokusy.ru; fermilon.ru; agrarian-blog.ru; gryadki.com"

Chemicals for treatment and protection

Copper sulfate has proven itself well in the fight against late blight. A 3% solution is used to treat the soil several days before planting seedlings. When planting plants, prepare a 1% solution and pour 1 liter into each well. Trichopolum or metronidazole tablets have an antifungal effect.

20 tablets are diluted in a small amount of water and poured into a bucket of water. Plantings are processed every two weeks. Chemical fungicides are strong in the fight against late blight, but after treatment with them, the fruits cannot be eaten for 25 days:

"Abiga - Peak"
"Profit - Gold"

Dilute at the rate of 1 gram per 1 liter of water. Apply 4 times, every 14 days. Hazard class – 3. Protects the plant for 7 – 12 days.

“Hom” - 40 grams are stirred in a bucket of water. Belongs to hazard class 3.

For prevention, or in the initial stage of the disease, it is recommended to use biological agents: “Alirin-B”, “Gamair”, “Fitosporin”. They belong to hazard class 4, are highly effective, and do not cause addiction to fungal pathogens.

In addition to protective measures, these biological products bring benefits: they remove the toxicity of the soil after treating it with chemicals, restore microflora, strengthen the immunity of plants and stimulate further growth and development of bushes.

Common chemicals include:

Antibiotic Trichopolum

10 tablets of this product are dissolved in 10 liters of water and sprayed on the bushes. The treatment is carried out for the first time when the tomatoes are at the stage of ovary formation, and then the procedure is repeated 2 times a month.

This is an antimicrobial substance. That’s why gardeners love to prepare a milk-iodine solution, which can easily help you get rid of late blight. To prepare it, take 10 liters of water, a liter of milk and 20 drops of iodine.

Zelenka

Dissolve 40 drops of this product in water and spray the tomatoes with it.

Potassium permanganate solution

This product is an excellent antiseptic for seeds. They are placed in a gauze bag and immersed in this solution for 40 minutes. After this, rinse with water and dry thoroughly.

Source: "profermu.com"

Causes of late blight on tomatoes

Late blight - very common and harmful fungal disease, which destroys not only tomatoes, but also other nightshade crops (eggplant, potatoes). Most often, the disease manifests itself in cool and damp weather, with heavy rainfall. But where does this sore come from?

Late blight is a fungal disease and it is spread by spores, so the conidia of this fungus can survive in the soil, seeds, on the walls of a greenhouse or greenhouse, as well as garden tools.

And as soon as there are favorable conditions for its active reproduction (low air temperature and humidity), the disease will begin to develop and progress. In addition to weather conditions, there may be other causes of tomato disease:

Speaking about how late blight is transmitted, in this case it is worth noting that there are a lot of ways of spreading it - this can be infection through seeds, soil, tubers of neighboring plants, by transferring the infection from area to area with equipment, and much more.

With all this, the bacteria remain in the soil cover for quite a long time, and especially if it lacks copper salts.

Speaking about how transmission occurs, in nature there is a whole scheme of its transmission and its main stages:

So, on the affected plant itself, new spores are formed that infect the root, seeds, i.e., the entire healthy plant and its fruits, green or already ripe.
Next comes their germination, when new spores develop from them in greater numbers.
The next stage of infection is their direct entry into the kidney.
Already through the soil and contaminated soil it directly infects new ones, healthy plants, growing nearby.

The main thing is to find out how fungal spores got into your area, tomato bush, and based on this, take measures to eliminate pathogenic microflora.

Vegetable testing

Such signs at the first stage of disease development do not always indicate infection with late blight. For example, blackening of fruits can be caused by rot, increased level humidity or dryness of the soil, and this is also a consequence of an excessive amount of fertilizer applied.

The infected plant must be carefully examined. With dry blossom end rot, the damage spreads to the entire fruit and it turns black. But the tomato pulp should be firm and absolutely free of juice. This phenomenon occurs when there is an excessive amount of fertilizer, after which soil salinization occurs.

If there are black tomatoes on the plant, and the roots have come out to the surface of the dry soil, this is not late blight. The plant simply does not have enough moisture, so it gets it from the air.

Blackness may also be present on tomato fruits that are deficient in boron and magnesium. Therefore, the way out of this situation is to periodically fertilize the plants with fertilizer.

Effective fight plan

It is necessary to combat late blight on tomatoes from the first days of seed life. These procedures are carried out constantly and at certain intervals. After all sick plant it is almost impossible to cure, and the infection process occurs very quickly. In the early stages, the fight against late blight on tomatoes comes down to conventional prevention.

Then you can use different means to spray the plant or greenhouse. A novice gardener will grab his head from so many precautions, but how to deal with late blight using other methods?

Only carefully planned actions in combination with biologically active drugs or folk remedies will help get rid of the dangerous fungus.

This does not close the question of how to protect tomatoes from infection. Here you need to think through every step. For example:

Selection of seeds and their processing;
Planting and fertilizing seedlings;
Hardening off plants before planting;
Correct hole depth and row spacing;
Soil composition and treatment;
Care in the first 2 weeks after disembarkation;
Preparation of equipment and greenhouse;
Temperature and humidity in the greenhouse;
The amount and frequency of fertilizers against late blight, as well as their nature;
Plants that are planted nearby;
Predecessors that were planted 1-2 years earlier;
Climate.

Source: "ogorodko.ru; vogorode.com; teplichniku.ru"

Greenhouse treatment

Before planting hardened plants in a greenhouse, it is necessary to prepare the soil and build a greenhouse. The structure must be comfortable and airtight so that frost or cold air could not penetrate through the cracks. But at the same time, the structure must have several windows for ventilation.

Spraying tomatoes against late blight also includes preventive treatment of the greenhouse. If the structure has been in use for more than a year, before the start of the season it must be cleaned of dust, dirt and cobwebs. This must be done not only from the inside, but also from the outside.

For more scrupulous gardeners against late blight on tomatoes, it is advisable to spray the entire greenhouse structure with a solution of Fitosporin or Baikal EM.

The beds can be sprinkled with a mixture of ash and tobacco dust. To obtain such a product, you need to take 2 cups of tobacco dust into a bucket of ash. The gardener must use a gauze bandage. Such simple, and sometimes extreme, methods can protect the crop from tomato disease. Therefore, before treating tomatoes against late blight, pay attention to the greenhouse itself.

Plant care

Before plunging into the problem of processing plants, it is necessary to constantly inspect the bushes for humidity levels. If the lower leaves around the edges are wet, this is the first sign of a possible infection. The main signal, after which the tomatoes should be treated against late blight. The gardener should not overwater the plants.

You should never plant seedlings in a greenhouse in which last year's crop suffered from late blight. Before treating tomatoes against late blight, it is necessary to completely remove the top layer (5 cm) of soil. In this case, it is better to use seeds that are already 2-3 years old, since within a few years they cease to be a source of viral or fungal diseases.

It is best to choose a place for a greenhouse where nightshade crops have not grown before: peppers, potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants. All last year's plants must be collected and burned.

In order not to think later about how to save yourself from late blight on tomatoes, you need to dig up the soil well for the winter. This will destroy fungal spores. You can plant seedlings only after hardening: a frail plant is a weak link that can become a target for fungus.

Moreover, you cannot plant seedlings very densely. Always follow the planting patterns indicated on the seed packets. Before lowering the plant into the hole, remove its lower and old leaves down to 2-3 clusters. This will give more strength to the tomato, because it will not need to provide moisture and nutrients to the extra leaf.

Water only the root, not the leaves or stem, as this can cause tomato diseases. Caring for plants involves timely watering and ventilation of the greenhouse. So, adult tomatoes are watered rarely, but abundantly.

We must not forget about mulching the soil, but this procedure is carried out only with mature and strong plants. Treatment of tomatoes against late blight involves the correct technology of fertilizing with fertilizers (phosphorus, potassium, copper sulfate). This is done in cloudy, rainy weather.

Spraying plants

To defeat late blight of tomatoes, treatment must be carried out constantly, changing it from year to year. It is necessary to spray tomatoes against late blight at the stage of planting in the soil. For this purpose, store-bought solutions are used or prepared according to folk recipes.

The first enemy of fungal spores is garlic.

Use garlic heads and shoots. Take chopped heads and shoots (1.5 tbsp) into a bucket (10 liters) of water. The mixture is infused for 24 hours and filtered. Then 2 g of potassium permanganate is added there.

For late blight on tomatoes, the plant is sprayed with garlic solution when the ovary has formed, and the next time this is done after 10 days. It is better to carry out this procedure once every 2 weeks.

The question of what to spray tomatoes with can be answered with ordinary salt. You need a glass of table salt per 10 liters of water.

This solution creates protective film on the leaves, which blocks the path of spores to the mouth of the plant. You need to spray healthy bushes, because this is prevention, not treatment of the disease.

It is effective to treat tomatoes against late blight with common ash.

Half a bucket of ash is diluted in 10 liters of water. This solution is infused for 3 days, remembering to stir from time to time. Then the mixture is diluted with another 20 liters of water and 35 g of laundry soap is added.

Before treating tomatoes against late blight, you need to wait until the plant has taken root. Then spraying is carried out just before flowering and after the formation of the ovary.

The next recipe is a little extreme. It is necessary to fill 1 kg of rotted hay with 10 liters of water, add 100 g of urea. The solution should be infused for 4 days. After this, the liquid must be filtered.

Purchased solutions

It is easier to buy ready-made drugs and dilute them according to the instructions. For example, fungicides are recognized as the most effective. They are used 2-3 weeks before planting seedlings in a greenhouse and 2 weeks after that.
Many gardeners use old proven methods to combat this problem.

When the root system dries out, prepare a solution of Furacilin, which is used to spray the seedlings. It is necessary to dilute 2 tablets in 0.5 liters of water. Furacilin effectively copes with the fungus, like Trichopolum. Metronidazole is a synthetic antibacterial agent, which, according to gardeners, actively copes with plant diseases.

Its second name is Trichopolum. The plant is sprayed with a solution every 2 weeks. To prepare, you need to dilute Trichopolum (1 tablet) in 1 liter of water.

This antifungal agent has a very bitter taste, but is suitable for both people and plants. For an increased dose, use Trichopolum (20 tablets) per 10 liters of water. All these drugs are cheap and available.

How to treat the soil after an illness

In the spring, before planting, you should definitely treat the soil to remove late blight. To do this, take 3% copper sulfate and water the ground with it. After which you should thoroughly loosen the soil. To do this, use a special device that will help mix the top cover 25 cm thick.

Tornado will be one of the best helpers for this. It has an unusual shape and is very effective and easy to use.

And the final stage is watering the soil with phytosporin. For this, 1 tbsp. The product is dissolved in 10 liters of water. This dose is calculated for 1 sq.m. Be sure to remember that substances that contain copper can get into food, so they should be used only in early spring.

Varieties resistant to infection

Varieties resistant to late blight include: Brother's Gift, De Barao, Vilina, Lyana, Roton.
As you can see, late blight is easy to deal with. You just need to choose the product you like and get to work. However, you should also adhere to the dosage, because exceeding the norm will harm the tomatoes themselves.