Chemical preparations and folk poisonous remedies are used only if the plants are already sick or infested with pests. The main protection of plants has always been and is prevention, prevention of the harmful effects of plant enemies, diseases and pests.

Healthy and more resilient plants can only be grown on healthy lands. Most often, plants get sick on soils with high acidity, high level drainage water and with an excessive content of any of the elements in them.
The strength of the plant organism serves as a good guarantee of resistance against diseases and pests. For strong plants the danger of a significant reduction in yield occurs at 25% damage to the leaf surface, and for weakened ones - already at 10%.
In strengthening plants and preventing disease, foliar top dressing also plays an important role, helping to cope with root damage by nematodes and root rot.
Foliar feeding of potatoes with magnesium sulfate, done in the flowering phase, reduces scab damage. And spraying with microelements (zinc, copper) together with urea helps greenhouse plants fight white rot, brown spot and anthracnose. Spraying with potassium iodide helps against root rot; magnesium and calcium supplements limit viral diseases.
Mineral fertilizers in the main dressing and root dressings have a very beneficial effect on general strengthening plant organism. In this case, the role of timely application of microfertilizers is great. Phosphorus and potash fertilizers help to weaken the fusarium wilt of tomatoes, and manganese, copper and boron suppress their viral diseases - mosaic, streak and stolbur. The introduction of boron under the beet saves it from heart rot. Against rust of sorrel leaves, the introduction of potassium and phosphorus should be increased.
Effective agrotechnical methods to prevent plant damage are:
- the use of varieties resistant to diseases (according to reference books and own experience and selection);
- the necessary alternation of crops according to the areas of the plots;
- liming;
- change of soils in greenhouses or their top layer;
- ventilation of greenhouses, excluding the long-term presence of drip moisture on the leaves;
- timely thinning of crops;
- disinfection of hands and tools with potassium permanganate when pinching and trimming plants;
- a special container for collecting diseased leaves and shoots,
- removal of such plant residues far beyond
site or incineration.
Do not neglect the planting and sowing of plants that repel pests or mutually protect each other. We must not forget about natural friends: birds, frogs, ladybugs, ants, hoverflies, etc.
With regard to weeds, it must always be remembered that they not only weaken plants, depriving them of food and water, but also serve as breeding grounds in summer and keepers of pathogens of a number of diseases and overwintering pests in winter. The so-called intermediate hosts of the spider mite can be field bindweed, bindweed buckwheat, thistle; cabbage can be transmitted keel from colza, shepherd's purse, field yarutka; wheatgrass preserves wireworms; powdery mildew goes to cucumbers from dandelions, plantain and thistle; on the weeds aphids, moths, scoops accumulate. Individual plants left on the beds after harvesting also begin to play the harmful role of weeds.
You need to know, to know your plot or garden well: where, when, on what crops and under what conditions this or that disease, this or that pest appears and take appropriate measures in advance.

Unfortunately, pests and diseases haunt plants not only in the garden, but also at home and we begin to turn to protective equipment when they already need to be saved. Therefore, it is desirable to have a set of necessary means for protecting flowers and plants in your medicine cabinet.

What preparations should be prepared to protect your plants? It is necessary at least to understand the classification of means of protection. In principle, all protection methods can be divided into several groups:

• Biological
• Mechanical
• Chemical
• Agrotechnical
• Growth stimulants

Mechanical means of protection include garden pitch, some kind of insect traps, special nets, garden bandages. Used as protection against rodents, protecting the lower part of the trees. Mechanical means do not bring any harm to us or plants, and if necessary, they can also be used.

In addition to any preparations, knowledge of some agricultural practices, the use of plant insecticides, folk remedies, alternation of garden and vegetable crops with plants that produce phytoncides (calendula, nasturtium, marigolds, matthiola).

Insecticidal plants, as well as infusions, decoctions, powders can scare away harmful insects prevent the development of diseases. They are more safe for both nature and humans in comparison with chemical preparations, especially in cases of plants growing on a balcony, in a room.

Biological plant protection method

Demand for biological plant protection products in recent times increased greatly. Because everyone wants to get biologically pure products. And biological preparations are developed on the basis of microorganisms. These funds, as a rule, do not harm the environment, so their use is fully justified. They are quite effective, environmentally friendly, safe for all organisms and compatible with other methods of plant treatment. Nevertheless, precautions and protection must be observed.

Plants are treated with biological products for preventive purposes or at the initial stage of damage (Agravertin, Vertimek, Fitoverm), Entomophages ....

Preparations should not be confused: Fitoverm - protection of plants from pests, Fitosporin - a remedy for diseases. Both drugs are unique and safe. "Phyto" - means that it is a biological preparation. "Sporin" - from the word spores, which means it is antifungal. Read the information on the back of the package carefully when buying.

A few hours after the treatment of plants (Fitoverm and Lepidocid), the result will be visible. It is used in small doses, does not cause addiction in insects, and burns in plants, so it is possible to use a bio insecticide for several years.

Chemical plant protection method

Chemical protection is the most powerful plant protection product available today. Really powerful, in small quantities. They are used when neither biological nor any other means help.

However, they are harmful to nature, can accumulate in crops, cause burns in plants, and cause allergies in gardeners. Over time, pests and pathogens develop resistance to this drug. Therefore, gardeners and gardeners have to change one remedy for another.

There are several types of chemicals:

• Herbicides that will eradicate weeds designed specifically for a specific group of plants.
• Fungicides that destroy diseases of fungal origin.
• Bactericides protect plants from many types of bacterial diseases (antibacterial agents).
• Insecticides designed to kill eggs and larvae, as well as the insect pest itself.
• Acaricides - to combat herbivorous mites (Aktellik).
• Nematocides are used to control roundworms.
• Molluscicides (limacids) are designed against slugs and molluscs (metaldehyde).
• Zoocides (rodenticides) for rodent control (zoocoumarin).

For pest control, some means are intended (for which pest and which group of pests it is intended and what effect it has), against diseases - others.

During flowering, intensive formation of ovaries, before harvesting, chemical insecticides are contraindicated for use. It is better to turn to biological and agrotechnical methods of protection.

Precautions in handling drugs...

Never build strategic reserves. All chemicals, especially biological ones, quickly lose their effectiveness. You should pay attention to the expiration date.

Some preparations do not hold up when stored sub-zero temperatures and changes in humidity, overheating in the sun, which can often be observed on outlets and tents. As a result, the tool becomes unusable. Therefore, you should not buy such a product, they will bring little benefit.

We examined what plant protection products are, why they are and how they are used. In garden centers, you can consult with specialists if something is not clear and you find it difficult to choose any remedy. Be sure to understand, read the instructions so as not to make any mistakes. And most importantly, take care of yourself by using overalls when processing.

Nothing can darken the gardener's mood more than plant diseases. Unfortunately, in some years - this mainly depends on the weather - they come to the gardens in hordes.

But if you protect the plant well from the very beginning, choose a suitable place for it, plant it not too close to each other, this will become a serious preventive measure.

Strong, full of life plants are less susceptible to such misfortunes and recover faster if something happens to them. In addition, a lot of nerves and effort will help you save varieties that are resistant to certain diseases.

How to save plants from diseases

In order not to ruin the plants and be left without a crop, it is necessary to start the fight against diseases and pests as soon as you notice signs of diseases.

Attract Natural Opponents

In nature, almost all pests have opponents, which we call useful animals.

Such animals can be attracted by planting various plants, shrubs and trees natural for the area, where they can find food and shelter.

You can protect plants from pests by creating corners with wild plants and heaps of wood or stones.

Pots on branches, hung upside down and filled with wood fiber, provide shelter for earwigs, which greatly reduce the number of pests on trees.

Protective nets against vegetable flies

There is material for protecting plants from pests, for example, from vegetable flies. These insects lay eggs on young vegetable plants, and their larvae then actively eat the delicate tissue of plants.

To protect plantings from these pests in stores, you can and should purchase fine-mesh nets from synthetic fiber. These nets also protect plants from other flying pests.

Cover the beds with nets immediately after sowing or planting plants, without pulling them too hard, and press down on the perimeter with boards or stones so that no one can get under them. It will also protect the mesh from the wind, which can simply blow it away and leave the plants unprotected.

For tall vegetables, you can hang the nets with wire ties or attach to arcs.

The same purpose can be served nonwoven fabric, however, in summer it will be hot for plants under it.

How to lure pests into a trap?

Adhesive rings quite reliably protect against winter moth - the notorious pest of apple trees and others. fruit trees. In spring, the caterpillars of this small butterfly can eat the foliage of an entire tree and leave it bare.

In October females climb up the trunk to lay their eggs.

If at the end of September you tightly fasten the rings covered with glue to the base of the barrel, then, according to the manufacturer, you will create reliable protection from pests.

Yellow plates smeared with glue are used to catch cherry flies.

In such yellow plates they will protect against whiteflies, and blue ones will attract tripe.

Remove affected plant parts

Sometimes the spread of a disease or pest infestation can be stopped simply by removing the first affected leaves, shoots, flowers or fruits. And no matter how hard and insulting it may be, but sometimes, with a strong infection with fungi, bacteria or viruses, it is necessary to completely remove the entire diseased plant before it infects other plants.

With the onset of summer, the number of cases for gardeners is only growing every day. Moreover, it is not planting and organizing watering that come to the fore at all, protection from pests is much more important. I must say that modern gardeners and gardeners are offered a huge arsenal of all kinds of means to avoid such an outcome. Protection against pests and plant diseases is a guarantee excellent harvest, which is why, on the eve of the new summer season, this information will be useful to absolutely everyone.

Classification of modern methods of struggle for the health of the garden

Without this, it will be really difficult to figure it out. Modern agricultural science has studied and developed a huge number of methods to deal with various ailments that threaten to defeat your garden. Very roughly they can be divided into four large groups. Protection from pests and diseases of the garden can be agrotechnical, and it is precisely the methods from this group that receive especially much attention today. In second place is the biological, then - the mechanical method of pest control and, finally, the chemical.

It should be noted that in the garden and in the field it is quite acceptable to use a combination of the most different ways control and protection of plants. Moreover, it is this approach that guarantees the safety of your crop. But each of the methods taken separately may not give a full effect.

There is always an alternative

What methods do you think will provide the best protection against pests and plant diseases? Of course, many believe that the use of pesticides will provide the best effect. However, in Europe, the area of ​​land cultivated with the help of biological methods, where the use of chemicals is completely excluded, is increasing every year. That is, people have already well understood that all the "chemistry" in one form or another ends up on our table in grown vegetables and fruits. Of course, protection from pests and plant diseases is very important, but aren't we paying too high a price for this? That is why, year after year, the area of ​​organic farming is growing. Europeans have introduced strict control over the content of pesticides in vegetables and fruits, and the demand for products grown without their use is only growing.

Preventive actions

The better the pre-sowing work is done, the less problems you will have throughout the summer. Biological protection of plants from pests and diseases involves careful digging of the soil in autumn and spring, as well as the attraction of predatory insects that can protect crops from pests. This also includes planting garden plants according to special plans. Some cultures repel pests, others enrich the soil with substances important for third plants.

Long-term studies have shown that hoverflies, lacewings and ladybugs can destroy about 50% of aphids on crops. Therefore, the gardener has a direct benefit from attracting these insects to his site. For this, special multi-tiered houses are built from reed, peat and wood. The wild ones are seated around flowering plants, which are especially loved by these insects.

Agrotechnical methods of plant protection against pests and diseases

These are very simple and effective methods that do not require additional costs. They are economical and environmentally friendly. Any gardener knows about them and partially uses them on his site. Empirically, it was found that the best agrotechnical measure will be the cultivation of plant varieties resistant to pests and diseases. This also includes effective crop rotation and special, compliance with the optimal sowing dates and fertilization, and, of course, high-quality weeding.

Choosing varieties

Integrated plant protection against pests and diseases suggests that in order to achieve good result you need to apply a whole range of measures on your site. However, too much depends on the variety chosen to bypass this issue. First of all, of course, the resistance of the variety to diseases and insect invasion is of interest. These indicators depend on the anatomical, physiological and biological features each of them. Varieties also have different tolerances to insect damage. That is, with an equal degree of damage in some, the yield decreases, while in others this is almost imperceptible. Moreover, zoned varieties always differ in greater endurance, therefore it is recommended to use them on your site.

Crop rotation

Another most effective agricultural technique that will significantly increase the yield. The change of crops grown on a given plot of soil is a way to increase its fertility, as well as an important method for controlling the number of pests and preventing various diseases. If from year to year the same crop is planted on the same bed, then pests, fungi and viruses gradually accumulate in it until their number reaches a critical mass. Now the plants will die just on the vine, forcing the gardener to take action.

Fertilization

Plant protection products against pests and diseases are on the market in a wide range. However, we must start with the fact that healthy soil is able to take care of itself. And in order to keep it in the right condition, it is very important to regularly fertilize, dig and carefully weed weeds. The use of organic and mineral fertilizers when processing the garden from diseases, it contributes to the formation of seedlings that are more resistant to damage. On well-fertilized soils, seedlings are friendly, plants develop quickly, and there is a discrepancy between the development of pests and the crops themselves. As a result, pests die or simply cannot cause tangible harm.

Many gardeners know from their own experience that feeding with phosphate fertilizers during the laying of eggs by insects significantly reduces the number of pests, for example, superphosphate works effectively against slugs. Careful digging of the soil in autumn and spring is an excellent protection against pests, diseases and weeds. In this case, the pupae and insects are on the surface and die, as well as the roots of the weeds.

Garden pests. Learning to defend

To protect your garden or large industrial field from diseases and pests, you need to carefully weigh the needs of the chosen crop and study its main enemies. This will already give a certain scheme of action, which can become very effective. The very first step is to sow the crop at the optimum time. This will allow you to get high-quality seedlings that are resistant to various diseases and pest damage. For example, early sowing of radish makes it possible to protect the crop from

Seed sowing patterns and rates are also important. An optimal number of plants should be located on a certain area. This will ensure their normal growth and development, and hence resistance to disease. The depth of seed placement also plays a role.

However, this is not all you need to know. Why is it so important to get rid of all the weeds that appear on garden plot? Because the weed is favorite place collections of various organisms. Here they successfully breed and attack cultivated plants around. Weeds feed on earth fleas and aphids, and other insects, not to mention the fact that weeds are a habitat for numerous bacteria.

Disease control

Ways to protect plants from pests and diseases can be painted indefinitely. However, first of all, it should be noted those that can be used on any site, are accessible to everyone and effective. These are physical measures to combat bacteria, viruses and pests. These methods are based primarily on the use of high and low temperatures and changes in humidity. environment.

The soil is spilled with boiling water and frozen, covered with a film and heated under the sun's rays or using special heaters. If you warm up the greenhouse with heating elements in early spring, then pests from all over the site will gather there. Just turn it off heating appliances and open a greenhouse for the night so that they all die from a change in temperature.

For a small garden plot, a mechanical method of insect control is very effective. These are all kinds of traps, glue and rag rings, water bottles, the neck of which is smeared with syrup, and other devices. Mechanical methods include the destruction of pests by shaking, manual assembly, the destruction of winter nests, that is, everything that we do on our site in the summer.

Biological methods of combating plant diseases

Pests are an obvious nuisance, you understand the causes of what is happening and notice the consequences. In the case of diseases (bacterial, fungal, viral), it is not always possible to make a diagnosis quickly. And this is true not only for a huge field. Protecting indoor plants from pests and diseases also requires a lot of attention, knowledge and skills, because sometimes it’s enough to miss just one day, and it will be impossible to save the plant.

It seems to be not worth thinking about for a long time: we take one bag from fungal diseases in the store, the second - from viral ones, plus we spray it with an insecticide, and we can sleep peacefully. However, keep in mind that some of this "chemistry" will still end up on your table along with the fruits. Therefore, it is better to try to avoid the disease using other methods, leaving the above described for last.

"Heavy artillery": "chemistry" in our garden

The chemical protection of plants from pests and diseases works great for both fungal and viral diseases, which are often the cause of the largest crop losses. To do this, use insecticides, each of which acts on the pathogens of a particular disease. Keep in mind that these drugs must be used in advance. Their effectiveness drops sharply if you are trying to save already diseased plants.

Fungicides are designed to treat seeds in order to protect future plants from a number of diseases. Acaricides work against garden mites, this group of insects is often resistant to other drugs. If rodents often raid your garden, then in addition to treating trunks with lime and laying traps, you can use special rodenticides. it chemical warfare with mice and moles ("Goliath", "Fentolatsin"). Bactericides work great against bacterial garden diseases. Finally, in order to protect the garden from feathered "robbers", special avicides were invented ("Averfos", etc.).

Of course, you need to be more careful with "chemistry", but science does not stand still and is developing new ways to protect garden plants from diseases, weeds and pests that would have minimal harm to human health. Modern pesticides have a very low percentage of toxicity. When used in due time and in the amounts recommended in the instructions, the body is less harmed than, for example, from caffeine. However, this does not mean that all other methods of garden protection (agrotechnical, biological) do not have the right to life. Only their optimal combination will give an excellent result.

Summing up

Among the variety of options presented above, each of you will be able to find the one that is best suited for solving the tasks facing him. One has a home greenhouse, the other has a rose garden. Someone cultivates vegetables in the garden plot for their family, and someone is engaged in growing grain in industrial scale. In any case, the plant is always under the threat of attack by pests or the development of diseases that threaten complete annihilation harvest. Therefore, competent protection of plants from pests, diseases and weeds is the main task of every gardener.

Each gardener has his own secrets of how to protect plants from pests and infections - tested more than once and bringing a tangible effect. For those who have not yet developed their own tactics on how to deal with plant diseases and destroy insects, it will be useful to learn about the most effective methods. All of them are divided into four large groups, and about each of them you will receive detailed information in this material.

The issue of protecting the garden from pests and diseases is perhaps the most difficult for the amateur gardener. At the same time, every summer resident inevitably has to deal with this problem. Unfortunately, for beginners, the biggest gap in knowledge is observed precisely in this matter.

Great damage to the crop in the garden and the garden is brought by pests and diseases. For example, gray rot of strawberries in wet years can deprive us of up to 30% of the crop. The pest of currants and gooseberries - gooseberry moth, if you do not take action, destroys up to half of the crop, that is, it is not enough to grow a crop - you still need to protect it. There are many such examples. That is why the protection of horticultural crops from pests and diseases is perhaps the most relevant, and at the same time the most complex issue for all amateur gardeners.

Protection of the garden and garden from diseases and pests- an event that really requires not only skill, but also some knowledge. It can be sufficiently effective only with a skillful combination of all its constituent elements, such as agrotechnical, biological, mechanical and chemical methods of protection.

How to deal with plant diseases and pests effective ways you will find out in this article.

How to deal with plant diseases and pests: an agrotechnical method of protection

The agrotechnical method of plant protection consists mainly in good general garden care:

• in the right choice of site,
• planting pest and disease resistant crops,
• the presence of crop rotation,
• timely tillage,
• in the right and timely fertilizer,
• proper pruning of trees, etc.

The right choice of site, the correct placement of crops in the garden is one of the main conditions for the health of the garden. It is undesirable to do mixed landings. For example, if you place strawberries, vegetables in wide aisles of apple trees, then when the apples begin to grow in size, in order to protect the fruits from the codling moth, you will need to spray the apple trees with chemical solutions or infusions of insecticidal herbs. And at this time there are already strawberries, many vegetables are ready to eat, and any spraying is unacceptable.

In order to fight pests and plant diseases as efficiently as possible, crops of the same family cannot be located close to each other. If you plant currants, gooseberries nearby, they will suffer from pests and diseases more often, as they have many common pests and diseases.

Potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants are also plants of the same family. Therefore, it is impossible to plant tomatoes or eggplants in the garden where potatoes were grown last year.

And when correct placement cultures, on the contrary, they will protect each other. So, if you alternate beds of onions and carrots, they will hurt and be less damaged by pests: the smell of onions repels the carrot fly, and the smell of carrots is not to the taste of onion pests. Onions, for example, repel spider mites that damage cucumbers and eggplants. The smell of garlic is not liked by cruciferous fleas, which damage all plants of the cabbage family.

To protect the garden from pests and diseases great importance has timely tillage. At proper processing a number of pests and pathogens die, the life of which in certain phases of development is associated with staying in the soil. Deep autumn digging of beds, summer loosening of row spacing and trunk circles contribute to the destruction of a large number of pests, weeds and diseases.

An indispensable condition for protection against garden pests and diseases is the timely destruction of weeds, since many pests of cultivated plants first settle, develop and accumulate on weeds, and then move on to cultivated plants. At fruit trees and berry bushes they eat away buds, flowers, leaves, penetrate into young ovaries, and eat away the growth point of seedlings of vegetable crops. In a well-groomed, abundantly fruitful garden, you will not see weeds, so there are fewer pests.

timely and correct pruning trees and shrubs - the most important way both care and protection of plants from pests and diseases. For example, by removing fruit-bearing and diseased raspberry shoots, the gardener destroys a large number of pests and germs of diseases that have prepared for wintering. When pruning old twisted or underdeveloped young shoots of currants, gooseberries, many pests, their larvae and laid eggs are removed from the garden.

Another effective agrotechnical method of pest and plant disease control– collection and burning in autumn of all plant residues. Very often you have to read the recommendations that plant residues need to be removed from the garden. No, not only to remove, it is necessary to burn or bury deep. After all, many pests in their adult phase are flying insects: butterflies, beetles, flies, and when removed, of course, they will again find themselves in the garden, not in yours, then in another. And when burned, they die. Tops of tomatoes, cucumbers and other vegetables should be placed in compost heaps, where they will rot for 2-3 years and become a good fertilizer.

One cannot ignore such agrotechnical methods of protecting plants from pests and diseases as the correct and timely application of fertilizers simultaneously with improving the diet. This increases the immunity (stability) of crops. For example, phosphorus and potash fertilizers increase their resistance to pests and diseases. So, aphids first of all appear on plants with a lack of potassium nutrition. At the same time, the excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers in plants causes an increased development of a delicate vegetative mass: young shoots, leaves, which will turn out to be a good environment for the development of diseases and tasty food for pests. Therefore, once again we have to remind about the correct and timely application of fertilizers.

An effective method of protecting plants from pests fruit crops is the installation of trapping belts on tree trunks. Hunting belts are burlap, corrugated cardboard, paper in several layers, tied around a tree trunk at a height of 40–50 cm. They are placed at the beginning of flowering. The pests awakened from hibernation rush to the crown of the tree and, finding on their way a “secluded place” - a trapping belt, hide there. The gardener must check them every other day and destroy the pests that have gathered there.

It should be emphasized that any measure to protect the garden from diseases and pests gives a good effect only if it is applied in a timely manner, at the very beginning of the appearance of pests or diseases.

After harvesting, do not forget about preparing the garden for winter rodent protection measures. To do this, before the onset of winter, you need to wrap tree trunks with roofing felt or pine spruce branches with needles down. With the establishment of sustainable negative temperatures it is necessary to whitewash the trunks of apple trees, plums, cherries. With earlier whitewashing, it can be washed away by autumn rains. Such whitewashing will protect the trunks in the spring from sunburn.

Mechanical method of protecting plants in the garden and in the garden from insect pests

The mechanical method of plant protection has both its pros and cons: it is the most time-consuming, at the same time environmentally friendly and harmless. This method of protecting plants from insect pests includes:

• direct manual collection and destruction of pests,
• installation of trapping belts, other traps that prevent pests from settling trees,
• winter tying of trunks of young trees from damage by rodents, etc.

Many garden pests are fairly easy to pick by hand. So, the beetles of the raspberry-strawberry weevil in the morning, when there is still dew in the garden, rise and sit motionless on the upper leaves of the strawberry - they dry. At this time, they can easily be collected in a jar of salt water, and then destroyed.

During the increase in the size of currant berries, berries are visible on the bushes, as if they had begun to ripen. However, these are not ripening berries - larvae of the gooseberry moth, sawflies, sit inside them. Such "ripening" berries are harvested along with pests and destroyed.

In winter, dried brown mummified fruits remain hanging on the branches of apple trees. When collecting and destroying such fruits, the disease of fruits with scab and rot is reduced, since the beginnings of many diseases hibernate on these fruits.

AT last years amateur gardeners successfully use such mechanical means to protect the garden from pests as bait traps. They are hung on the tops of trees. For example, at the end of flowering, wide cans with kvass, a solution of the remaining old jams. The smell of kvass strongly attracts codling moth butterflies, the gardener has to clean up the butterflies that have fallen into the dishes every morning and, if necessary, add kvass or water.

On cabbage, it is easy to destroy the egg-laying of cabbage whites, cabbage scoops. Young crops of radishes, turnips, radishes are attacked by small and very bouncy cruciferous fleas. To destroy them, adhesives, such as grease, are applied to plywood, cardboard 50x60 cm in size on both sides. If on a sunny day you wave such a device over the beds, then the fleas will scatter and stick.

Funds mechanical method there are many plant protections, they are closely intertwined with folk wisdom and endless inventions of resourceful gardeners.

Biological method of protecting plants from diseases and pests: the best methods and means

The biological method of plant protection involves the use natural enemies harmful insects: predatory spiders, mites, microorganisms, useful birds and etc.

One of the best representatives such predators is ladybug. For a day, it is capable of destroying up to 150–200 aphids. Various predatory ground beetles destroy many caterpillar pests. The well-known birds - starlings are great helpers of the gardener.

At present, scientists have created many different biological plant protection products for gardeners that help preserve crops from adverse weather factors, from pests and diseases, increase plant immunity to pests and diseases, promote better root formation, and others. There are many such drugs, and new ones appear every year.

Microbiological preparations are on sale: entobacterin, dendrobatsillin, agravertin, which are used against various harmful caterpillars, and trichodermin, which is used against fungal diseases, etc.

Microbiological preparations can also include: mullein infusion, with which resourceful gardeners spray currants, gooseberries, cucumbers. In the water infusion of mullein, microorganisms develop that can destroy the beginnings of some types of fungal diseases.

List of biological products for the protection against diseases and pests

The following is a list of the most commonly used biologics:

Agravertin- a biological preparation for protecting plants from pests and diseases of the intestinal-contact action. It is effectively used against larvae colorado potato beetle, aphids, codling moth, sawfly larvae, leafworms and others. It is allowed to apply on fruit and berry plants in the garden, as well as on vegetables, both open and closed ground. The drug has low toxicity to humans and beneficial insects, such as bees. Already 2-3 days after processing, it is allowed to harvest and use the crop.

Humistar- a biological agent for protecting plants from diseases and pests, containing biostimulants, trace elements, humic substances and others. Due to its high biological activity, it stimulates good growth and development of plants, improves fruit formation, increases their immunity to diseases and pests. Thanks to these properties of humistar, plants better resist diseases and adverse weather factors. Seeds are soaked with this preparation before planting, root and foliar top dressing is done.

Immunocytophyte- a biological preparation for protecting plants from diseases and pests, increasing the immunity of plants to adverse factors. Seeds and tubers are treated with the drug before sowing. In addition, vegetative plants are also processed: potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers and other vegetable, fruit and berry plants. The positive effect of the drug with a gradual decrease lasts 30-35 days. The drug is available in the form of tablets. It should be used in the doses indicated on the package.

Phytoflavin-300- the active substance of this biological preparation for plant protection is an antibiotic, which simultaneously has both a bactericidal and fungicidal effect, that is, it is equally effective against bacterial and fungal diseases. Also using this biological method plant protection stimulates the growth and development of crops. It is non-toxic to beneficial insects. Permission is granted to use as open ground, as well as in greenhouses.

Chemical method of plant protection: effective means

Of course, the chemical method of plant protection is the most effective. However, every gardener knows that the pesticides used in the garden are not completely harmless to humans - the owners of the garden themselves. Therefore, the very first rule that must be strictly observed is to carefully read the attached instructions before using the drug and use the drug strictly according to its instructions. It is also necessary to be aware that not all chemical protection products approved for use in industrial gardens are approved for use in a personal garden.

When using chemical plant protection methods in the garden, it is necessary to take into account such a phenomenon as insect addiction. If the same chemical is used against pests all the time in the garden, then after several generations (and some of them give 3-5 generations in one summer), individuals resistant to this drug appear. For example, if you used decis against the Colorado potato beetle this year, then next time it is better to use bitoxibacillin, INTA-VIR, etc.

Usage chemical methods protection of plants from pests and diseases should be carried out in the evening, in calm weather, in compliance with safety rules. Work on spraying the garden should be carried out in protective equipment: in rubber boots, in a dressing gown or overalls. Hands must be protected with rubber gloves and eyes with goggles. Respiratory organs are protected by respirators or a gauze bandage in 4-6 layers. At the end of the work, the solutions are drained and instilled. Hands and face are thoroughly washed with soap.

Solutions, as a rule, must be prepared immediately before spraying, since many preparations lose their protective properties over time. Plants are sprayed evenly, so that all parts of the plant are evenly covered with the solution. Many pests, such as aphids, are always on the underside of the leaf, so when spraying against such pests, the sprayer nozzle must be directed from the bottom up so that the drops fall on the pest.

When using chemicals, it is necessary to observe their terms of application specified in the instructions.

During spraying, it is necessary to achieve the smallest possible spray, only then can uniform wetting of all parts of the plant be achieved and the most complete contact of the chemical with pests and the beginnings of diseases. For example, some gardeners use brooms when spraying potatoes from the Colorado potato beetle. Such spraying does not give a full effect.

Using chemical methods to control pests and plant diseases, each bush and tree is sprayed with a certain amount of the drug.

The treatment of plants with pesticides should not be carried out during flowering. This can lead to poisoning and death of bees and other beneficial insects involved in the pollination of flowers. And poor pollination, in turn, will lead to a decrease in the yield of horticultural crops.

Spraying of plants can not be carried out also later than the deadline indicated in the instructions, since the chemicals may not completely decompose before cleaning. The list of drugs approved for use changes annually. Outdated drugs dangerous to humans, such as metaphos, chlorophos, nitrafen, etc., are excluded from the list, and new, more advanced ones are included.

The main advantages of modern effective drugs for chemical protection from diseases and pests: at correct application they do not accumulate in the soil and in plant organism- decomposed into harmless components.

Fruits, berries and vegetables can be damaged by both pests and diseases. And pests and diseases are completely different things, and the drugs used to destroy them are also completely different. Therefore, before you start spraying the garden with herbal infusions, pesticides, you must very clearly determine the cause: fruits and vegetables are damaged by diseases or they are damaged by pests. First of all, success depends on the correct definition of the method of struggle and, most importantly, the right choice of drug.

For example, fungal diseases are rampant in the garden, and the gardener sprays the garden with insecticides, that is, chemicals against pests. Fruits and vegetables in the garden are damaged by pests - the garden is sprayed with fungicides - drugs against diseases. As in the first, and in the second case, there will be no positive effect.

Important: first you need to determine whether fruits and vegetables are damaged by pests or diseases?

Insecticides- These are drugs with which they fight against insect pests. For example, insecticides include: decis, karbofos, karate, face, bankol, INTA-VIR, alatar and many others. Insecticides are of contact and systemic action. Contact insecticides infect pests when they come into contact with the surface of the body. Systemic insecticides penetrate the plant and infect pests when feeding on a poisoned plant.

Acaricides- drugs used against ticks ( kidney mite, spider mite). These are akarin, neoron, actellik, etc.

Fungicides- means of combating fungal diseases. These are preparations such as copper sulphate, Bordeaux mixture, topaz, colloidal sulfur, thiovit, Viktra, etc. Fungicides are also of contact action and systemic. The mechanism of their action is similar to that of insecticides: by direct contact and through the plant.

herbicides- chemicals for weed control. Herbicides include: roundup, tornado and others. Herbicides are continuous action, from the action of which all plants die, and selective, which affect only certain plant species. For example, the amine salt 2,4-D has a detrimental effect on deciduous plants(quinoa, sow thistle, nettle, field bindweed, etc.) and does not affect cereals (wheatgrass, wheat, rye, etc.).

The best preparations for chemical plant protection

Currently, scientists have created many different plant protection chemicals for gardeners that help preserve crops from adverse weather factors, pests and diseases, increase immunity, promote better root formation, and help fight weeds. There are many such drugs, and new ones appear every year. Below are the names and descriptions of the best of them.

GUMI- a preparation containing sodium humate. Available in liquid and powder form. It has a stimulating effect on plants in the treatment of seeds, root system and leaves. The drug stimulates the growth and development of plants, increases immunity in case of adverse factors, such as temperature fluctuations, lack of water. When spraying, seedlings tolerate the stress of transplantation more easily, take root better, and when treating seeds, their germination and germination energy improve.

IMMUNOCYTOFIT - chemical drug to protect plants from pests and diseases, increasing the immunity of plants to adverse factors. Seeds and tubers are treated with the drug before sowing. In addition, vegetative plants are also processed: potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers and other vegetable, fruit and berry plants. The positive effect of the drug with a gradual decrease lasts 30-35 days. The drug is available in the form of tablets. It should be used in the doses indicated on the package.

PHYTOFLAVIN-300- the active substance of this chemical preparation for protecting plants from diseases and pests is an antibiotic, which simultaneously has both a bactericidal and fungicidal effect, that is, it is equally effective against bacterial and fungal diseases. It also stimulates the growth and development of plants. It is non-toxic to beneficial insects. It is allowed to use both in open ground and in greenhouses.

ALATAR- a drug with a wide spectrum of action. It effectively acts against many pests: the Colorado potato beetle, codling moth, aphids, psyllids and others. It is used against pests of fruit and berry crops and vegetables.

ACARIN- a chemical preparation for the protection of diseases and pests, which has a wide spectrum of action. Destroys aphids, ticks, cabbage whites, codling moths, leafworms and harmful bacteria. After application, it quickly begins to act. It quickly breaks down without polluting the environment.

The method of chemical protection of plants using Bordeaux mixture

From chemicals protecting plants from diseases, it is worth considering separately how to use Bordeaux mixture.

Bordeaux mixture- this is truly an old-timer: it has been successfully used to protect gardens for more than a hundred years. This is one of the most versatile and at the same time less dangerous drugs for humans.

The composition of the Bordeaux mixture includes copper sulfate (copper sulfate) and lime. A 3% or 1% mixture is usually used to protect the garden. In stores, you can buy a ready-made mixture, where copper sulfate, lime are separately packaged and litmus paper is attached to determine the acidity of the prepared solution.

However, you can buy these chemicals separately and make your own. To prepare 10 liters of a 3% mixture, take 300 g of copper sulfate and 300–350 g of lime. Each chemical is separately dissolved in 5 liters warm water in a plastic container. Copper sulphate will dissolve completely, and a precipitate will remain from the lime. Now the mixtures are combined with strong stirring. To do this, with a clean wooden stick, a solution of copper sulphate is given a strong rotational movement, and pure sediment of lime mortar is poured into it in a thin stream. Do not use iron utensils, since copper sulfate reacts with iron and forms a toxic compound that can lead to poisoning when using this utensil.

The garden is treated with a freshly prepared mixture. The garden is sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture in late autumn, after leaf fall, or in early spring before bud break. This spraying destroys the beginnings of many fungal diseases: on apple and pear - scab, moniliosis; on stone fruits - spotting, on berries - powdery mildew, spotting, on grapes - mildew.

Bordeaux mixture is widely used for plant protection in the summer, during the growing season of plants. For the treatment of green, vegetative plants, a 1% Bordeaux mixture is used (100 g of copper sulfate and 100–120 g of lime).

Properly prepared Bordeaux mixture has a reaction close to neutral and does not burn the plants. With timely, at the beginning of the onset of the disease, spraying an apple tree and a pear, it protects against scab, leaf spot, and fruit rot.

With a Bordeaux mixture, stone fruits protect against coccomycosis, clasterosporiasis, moniliosis, plum pocket and other diseases; currants and gooseberries - from powdery mildew, anthracnose, rusts; vegetables, tomatoes, potatoes - from late blight, onions - from rust and rot, cucumbers - from powdery mildew and other diseases.

Spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture during the growing season of plants is allowed up to 3-4 times with a break of 12-15 days. A more detailed and specific method of treating plants with plant infusions and various chemicals is given for each crop separately in the section on their protection.

How to protect plants from pests and diseases: the use of herbal infusions

Currently, many different pesticides are sold in stores to control pests and diseases in the garden and vegetable garden. However, it should always be remembered that these poisons are not entirely safe for humans and are beneficial only with skillful use.

In the case of a small number of pests, one can successfully use such a method of pest and disease control as insecticidal plants. Decoctions and infusions of insecticidal plants, such as tomato, potato, dandelion, horse sorrel, hellebore Lobel, great celandine, tobacco, yarrow, wormwood, garlic, hot pepper, etc. make up special group among preparations for combating diseases and pests of plants. Some of these drugs are also harmful to humans. They must be used with the same precautions as when working with pesticides. For example, hellebore Lobel, great celandine, etc. are poisonous to humans.

The use of these plant protection products is less dangerous for the human body and the environment. Insecticidal plants grow everywhere and are available to every amateur gardener. It is also important that they come to us for free.

They are collected before and during flowering, then they have the greatest insecticidal effect. For the preparation of preparations, you can use both fresh and dried plants. They should be dried in the shade under a canopy, in attics, where they are well ventilated. The faster the plants are dried, the more active substances are retained in them. After drying, the plants are stored in paper bags or cloth bags, with a label with the name of the plant and the date of collection indicating the year.

Dried plants can be successfully used in next year. To prepare such plant protection products against pests and diseases, dried plants are taken in half the dose indicated for fresh material. Before use, the plants are crushed and, according to the instructions, either a decoction (with boiling) or an infusion (infusion in warm water with occasional stirring) is prepared. Preparations are usually used on the day of preparation.

Below are a few publicly available recipes from the most common plants:

Dandelion- an infusion of leaves or leaves with roots is used against aphids, mites and suckers. 400 g of crushed leaves and roots are infused for 2-3 hours in 10 liters of warm water, filtered and immediately used for spraying. The first spraying is carried out on the opening buds.

Burdock- an infusion of leaves is used against leaf-eating caterpillars on vegetable crops. One third of a bucket of chopped fresh leaves is infused in 8 liters of water for 3 days, filtered and used for spraying.

Hellebore Lobel- (the plant is poisonous!). Plants and roots are used. In the spring, before the leaves open, the plant is dug up, the roots are washed off the ground. To prepare 10 liters of infusion, take 0.5 kg of fresh or 250 g of dry mass, grind, pour 10 liters of water, leave for 1.5–2 days and filter. Apply against caterpillars on an apple tree and larvae of a slimy sawfly on a cherry. Tomatoes - 4 kg of chopped tops (stepchildren can be used) are poured into 10 liters of water, boiled for half an hour, insisted for another 3-4 hours and filtered. To prepare a working solution, 3 liters of broth is diluted with water to 10 liters. Apply against aphids and young caterpillars of pests.

horse sorrel- to prepare the infusion, take 300 g of roots or 400 g of leaves (or 350 g of the mixture), pour 10 liters of warm water. Insist 3-4 hours, filter and spray the plants. Used against aphids and mites.

Potato- an infusion of green tops is used against aphids, mites, cabbage whites, moths. 1.2–1.3 kg of green tops (or 0.6–0.7 kg of dry) are infused in 10 liters of warm water for 3–4 hours, filtered and sprayed.

Garlic- 100 g of the heads are rubbed on a grater and poured into 1 liter of water, precipitated, squeezed out and again poured into 1 liter of water and squeezed out. The liquids are mixed together and stored in a tightly sealed glass container. To prepare such a plant protection product against diseases and pests, 300 g of the extract is diluted to 10 liters. Effective against aphids, mites and young caterpillars.

Large celandine- (the plant is poisonous!) 1 kg of crushed plants is poured into 10 liters of hot water, insisted for two days, filtered and sprayed. Apply against aphids, ticks and young caterpillars.

Marigolds are tall- beautifully blooming garden flowers with a pleasant smell. An infusion of plants cut during flowering is used to control aphids. 500-600 g of dry plants (or 1-1.2 kg of fresh ones) are poured into 10 liters of water, infused for 2 days, filtered and used for spraying.

Wormwood- a decoction of leaves and flowers with peduncles is used to combat leaf-eating caterpillars on berries and fruit trees. Half a bucket of finely chopped fresh grass is poured with water to the full, insisted for 1 day and boiled for 30 minutes. Before spraying, the infusion is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:2.

yarrow- an infusion or decoction of plants is used against aphids, mites, bedbugs and small caterpillars. 800 g of dry crushed plants (or 1.5–1.7 kg of fresh ones) are poured into 2–3 liters of boiling water. Insist 1.5-2 days. Before use, filter, top up to 10 liters and spray. To prepare a decoction, take the same amount of plants and boil for 30 minutes.

Tobacco, or tobacco-shag- an infusion of dry leaves is used against a whole complex of pests: aphids, suckers, thrips, caterpillars, moths on berries and fruits, larvae on onions and others. To prepare an infusion, 400 g of dry leaves are infused for 2 days in 10 liters of water in dark place. Before spraying, filter and dilute with water 1: 2. Before spraying, it is advisable to add 40 g of laundry soap or 20–25 g to all decoctions and infusions. washing powder. This improves the adhesion of the liquid to the leaves, which is very important when spraying against aphids, when the main effect is to wet the underside of the leaves, where there are clusters.

In addition to the correct concentration in the preparation of preparations, the amount of liquid with which the plants are sprayed is also of great importance. Bushes and trees, of course, should be sprayed so that all their parts are well wetted. But still it is recommended that the consumption of the drug during spraying should be no more: 1.3–1.5 l per bush of currant and gooseberry, 200–300 ml per raspberry bush, 1.5 l per 10 m 2 of strawberries, per fruiting tree 7–8 l and for a young barren tree 1–2 l, depending on the size of the crown.

Spraying fruit and berry crops with infusions and decoctions of herbs should be carried out when the pests have just appeared and are still few in number. If they managed to multiply, the efficiency will be low. The treatment of plants with herbal preparations during the growing season can be safely carried out 2-3 times, and when greater numbers pests up to 4–5 times, repeating after 7–15 days.

Prepared decoctions and infusions are recommended to be used on the day of preparation in the evening, when the wind subsides. Spraying is not recommended during flowering and 5 days before harvesting, as the smell and taste of herbs may remain on flowers, fruits and berries.

When working with solutions of insecticidal plants, you should also follow the rules for safe work: spraying should be carried out in a dressing gown, rubber boots, and mittens. Respiratory organs are protected with a respirator or gauze bandage in 3-4 layers, and eyes with goggles.

A method of combating diseases and pests of plants with boiling water

In recent years, such an effective and environmentally completely safe method of protecting currants, gooseberries and other plants from powdery mildew as spraying bushes with boiling water in early spring has been common among gardeners. As soon as the snow melts, and the currant buds have not yet begun to swell, the water is boiled, poured into a watering can and the bushes are poured evenly and thoroughly with this boiling water.

For a large fruit-bearing bush, one full watering can of boiling water is enough. The bush is sprayed very carefully so that drops of boiling water moisten each branch from top to bottom. The peculiarity of this spraying technique is that the bush should be treated in one go. Even if not all the branches got drops of boiling water, then re-spraying the bush is unacceptable.

The fact is that boiling water, burning and killing pathogenic fungi on the surface of branches, shoots, buds, quickly cools down, giving off its heat. And when re-treated with boiling water, the bush will already be warmed and hot water high temperature can easily penetrate the kidneys, burn them. It is important that at the time of spraying the buds on the bushes should not begin to swell and open.

For the convenience of carrying out this procedure and enhancing the effect of processing, the bush must be tied with twine before spraying so that it has a diameter of 60–80 cm. If the bushes have not yet been released from the autumn tight binding, then, on the contrary, they are somewhat released.

Spring spraying of bushes and spilling the soil under them with boiling water also kills pathogens and other diseases, and also has a detrimental effect on pest eggs laid on the surface of branches.