Autonomous heating is increasingly gaining popularity. This is especially true for private houses, cottages and summer cottages. Since there is not always a financial opportunity to purchase quality equipment, a homemade boiler for water heating and its various types are very common in the private sector, in particular for heating not only premises, but also heifers or other utility structures.

What should you consider when building a heating boiler?

The basis of any homemade water boiler is basic principle: any type of fuel that burns in it also heats the heat exchanger.

The operation scheme of such water heating equipment depends on the following:

• Availability of available materials from which a heating system can be constructed.
• The actual skills and abilities that will allow you to create heating equipment using an oven or other options. Ready-made drawings of homemade heating boilers can be found on the Internet.
• Selecting the type of fuel. This is influenced by indicators such as its availability in a certain region and cost.

The efficiency of homemade heating boilers depends on the following indicators:

• Design dimensions. The larger the area of ​​direct contact of the container with the coolant used, the greater the number of units of heat the coolant receives over a certain period of time.
• Indicator of the completeness of combustion of the fuel used. If pyrolysis gas enters the pipe along with combustion products in water equipment, burning it increases the efficiency several times. If the flow of oxygen to this element is water heating structure is insufficient, then the construction scheme needs to be modified.

From this we can conclude that in order to improve the quality of heating, it is necessary to achieve a minimum temperature of the combustion products. The lower the temperature, the higher the efficiency. In addition, the use of low temperature will guarantee the safety of a homemade heating boiler.

Features of heating with a stove

If there are problems with the gas supply, there are alternative ways use of heating equipment. A traditional stove is a good option, but this method is only suitable for small houses. For two-story options An alternative would be homemade heating boilers. Brick stoves with water heating will become the best option.

Despite the combination of this option two different systems, a homemade boiler for a stove is one of the most effective. It allows heating a large area, while the fuel consumption will be similar to a traditional stove.

To operate the stove, a homemade coal or wood boiler can be used. You can also alternate these options if you wish. The advantage of this design is also that a homemade stove-boiler does not require a permanent firebox. It will be enough to maintain the required heating level using a stove, adding the required amount of coal or other fuel. The stove allows you to maintain an optimal microclimate indoors, regardless of climatic conditions outside.

Features of the structure

Homemade heating boiler for brick oven can be done in various variations, depending on the application. A similar structure can be installed not only in a residential building, but also in service or utility premises, for example, in a greenhouse.

The most important stage is the correct installation of the boiler. It must be located directly in the oven. A homemade water heating boiler in a brick stove burning wood or coal is installed in the shape of the letter “P”. Drawings for this process can be easily found on the World Wide Web. Optimal material for its construction there will be a pipe or sheet metal.

Unused materials will also be used for the construction of a heating unit. cast iron radiators, which were used in old heating systems of multi-storey residential buildings. Before installation, the radiator must be thoroughly cleaned, rinsed and treated with saline solution. This will significantly extend the service life of a homemade water boiler.

You can weld a water boiler for the stove yourself. This is easy to do if you have drawings and a little skill in this area. If there is no experience, then welding equipment for the furnace should be entrusted to a specialist.

Despite the obvious advantages, such water heating for the furnace also has its disadvantages:

• The operation of the furnace requires constant diagnostics and monitoring.
• The ash chamber of the furnace must be cleaned regularly.
• A similar design with a stove is used mainly in the cold season.
• Deterioration of the boiler structure due to the high temperature inside the furnace.
• Lack of an emergency control system, which is due to the design features of the brick kiln.

However, in the absence of other options and with quality work done, heating using a stove will be a good option.

Construction of an option for heating a greenhouse

To increase yield in the cold season, supplementary heating must be provided for the greenhouse. Unlike heating with electricity, using homemade heating boilers will be more financially profitable.

The best option would be to build a stove in the greenhouse with an exhaust chimney, which can be done with your own hands. Drawings for this can also be easily found on the World Wide Web.

The process of constructing equipment in a greenhouse consists of next stages:

• It is necessary to lay a brick oven in the vestibule of the greenhouse.
• A chimney is installed along the entire length of the greenhouse at the top of the structure or under the beds.
• The exit for the pipe must be made on the other side of the greenhouse. Thus, carbon dioxide will escape, but the heat will remain inside the greenhouse.

Another option for a homemade boiler for a greenhouse is also possible:

• Selecting a large-volume barrel and painting it from the inside to avoid corrosion.
• Making holes in the barrel for the chimney, stove, additional barrel and cream tap.
• Installation of the firebox inside the barrel.
• Exhaust from the chimney barrel.
• Installation of additional expansion tank on a barrel.
• Welding heating for a greenhouse from profile pipe.
• Layout of pipes inside the greenhouse structure.
• Purchasing a pump to circulate water in the greenhouse system.

A similar option for a greenhouse can operate both on wood and on other types of fuel. To control the temperature inside the greenhouse, homemade heating boilers can be equipped electronic sensor temperature, and place the digital display itself directly in the house.

Autonomous heating in the form of homemade heating boilers is in demand both among owners of private houses and among residents multi-storey buildings. This allows you to significantly save on the purchase of expensive equipment, as well as control the heating process itself. Homemade boilers Heating systems can operate on wood, coal or other types of fuel, which allows the use of such units in different areas.

Homemade German solid fuel boiler

IN winter period in our conditions climate zone a person can feel comfortable only if his home is heated. And this is often done with homemade boilers long burning on wood. Manufacturers offer a huge range of boilers operating on different types fuels, but the most preferred are gas boilers. However, choosing such a unit is not always possible, since gas is not yet used in all regions of the country. The reason is the lack of supply through main pipelines.

The main advantage of a homemade wood-burning boiler compared to conventional stoves is the long period between fuel loads without reducing the efficiency of heating the room.

Operating principle of the boiler

The burning duration of a wood-burning boiler is ensured by its design and the processes occurring inside. The operating principle of such a device is to burn fuel from top to bottom, and not vice versa, as in traditional stoves. In the fireboxes of conventional boilers or furnaces, the bottom layer burns first, and the hot flows rise upward, drawing layer by layer into the combustion process. In this case, firewood burns out quickly, and you have to add it every 3-4 hours. In the absence of a new portion of fuel, the stove or boiler quickly cools down.

Many people living in country house, you know the feeling of unpleasant coolness and waiting for the stove that has cooled down overnight to be turned on so that the room warms up and you can get out from under the blanket.

Note! In long-burning boilers using wood, it burns first upper layer fuel. The fire then moves lower, catching the next row of logs or pellets.

The regulation mode allows one load of firewood to actively smolder for a long time - up to 30 hours, and after complete combustion of the fuel, with a similar boiler operation scheme, there remains minimal amount soot and ash.

Homemade boilers are not recommended for use in residential premises, as they do not have a sufficient level of safety. They are installed in technical and industrial buildings, in greenhouses and unfinished houses as temporary heaters. They are needed until the main heating system is installed that meets all requirements fire safety and accepted into operation by relevant organizations.

Advantages of homemade wood heating boilers

First of all, consumers are attracted to the solid fuel boilers in question by the ease of operation and high efficiency when heating premises.

Their advantages also include:

• simple adjustment of the process of active smoldering;
• long burning time without the need for additional fuel supply;
• availability self-made thanks to the simple design scheme;
• durability;
• high efficiency;
• competitiveness;
• maximum complete combustion of fuel.

Homemade designs of long-burning wood-burning boilers

In areas where there is no natural gas, heating equipment running on solid fuel is highly valued and in demand among consumers. Almost all settlements have their own sawmills or wood processing enterprises, so the question of where to get fuel does not arise. Especially in regions that produce coal.

They can work not only with wood, but also with sawdust, pellets, peat, and, if necessary, with coal.

Boiler for home

The housing for homemade boilers is made of metal pipes large diameter, barrels, round tanks, gas cylinders and other cylindrical containers. The most common materials for them are cast iron and thick-walled steel. Each of the materials has both positive and negative features:

1. Cast iron is famous for its resistance to corrosion processes and can withstand higher temperature conditions than steel, and cools more slowly. But it is quite fragile, and products made from it are heavy and have a high cost. Although hardly anyone will argue about the durability of cast iron structures.
2. Steel is lighter, stronger and cheaper. In addition, it warms up much faster. The material is easy to weld, so the boilers are airtight and easier to repair. But the condensate formed during fuel combustion can gradually destroy the walls of the furnace. Therefore, in industrial applications, the inner surface of solid fuel boilers is protected with a ceramic lining, but this is not available when making the equipment yourself.

Despite the main disadvantage of steel boilers, which is their tendency to corrosion, they are more popular among consumers.

When making a long-burning boiler yourself, the main task is to ensure proper air supply with the ability to regulate the processes of burning wood in the firebox. To do this you need:

• competent calculation of boiler power;
• affordable and high-quality materials;
• drawing of a design proven by time and experience of other craftsmen;
• ability to perform quality welds;
• compliance with installation technology.

There are quite simple and various designs long-burning boilers that home craftsmen make with their own hands. Let's list some of them.

Option one - iron pipe

Long burning stove with pipe

The diameter of the pipe must be within 30 centimeters and the height - 85 cm. For drainage carbon monoxide The design provides for the installation of a pipe in the upper part of the boiler with an inclination of at least 0.1% to the horizontal plane. The diameter of the chimney pipe is taken to be 10 cm, and the connection is made using welding equipment.

There is a door at the bottom of the boiler small sizes for adding firewood, and for blowing and cleaning the container from ash, grates are installed.

Inside metal structure, playing the role of a boiler, they place a pipe of smaller diameter connected to a pipeline running throughout the room at an appropriate slope for the natural movement of the coolant. The entire system is filled with water, which is heated and used for household needs, as well as for heating the room. Dampers are installed outside to regulate the flow of water from the tank.

Option two - barrel

The top rim of the barrel is trimmed and carefully leveled. A hole approximately 150 mm in diameter is cut out on a hermetically sealed lid to remove carbon monoxide. The chimney in this case is located at a slight angle to the vertical surface.

The lid must be reliable and strong enough, and the material for its manufacture must be fireproof. Another hole is made in the lid - about 100 mm, which will provide oxygen access to the equipment. The pipe is installed in such a way that carbon monoxide can escape almost vertically.

The most crucial point is considered to be the device of competent regulation of the exhaust gases output due to correct installation flaps. It is not recommended to place it too low, otherwise the fuel will burn much faster.

Our “jack of all trades” have found another way long burning logs in the oven. It consists of gradual sedimentation of fuel through the use of a special load. At working together With a movable air distributor, this option ensures fuel combustion for up to 60 hours.

Option three - potbelly stove

How to make a potbelly stove

Heating with a potbelly stove has been known since the time civil war, when there was no heat from boiler houses in cities. These stoves received a second life during the Great Patriotic War. At that time, there was simply no alternative. Near the potbelly stoves they heated and cooked food on them. So these universal stoves were indispensable at that time.

These days they are used in greenhouses and summer cottages, in unfinished houses and on construction sites V utility rooms for heating workers. Modern, which can provide heat to a pair of radiators in a room of 20–30 square meters.

Conclusion

Homemade boilers that provide long-term combustion are used in various household areas. For a summer house, greenhouse and small country house, not operated all year round, this option is the best. Loading of wood here occurs much less frequently than in traditional stoves, and the wood burns much longer.

Solid fuel boilers have been very popular for decades, although they have one significant drawback - they require constant loading of fuel (coal, firewood, etc.). Because of this drawback, they are often abandoned when arranging a heating system, but it is easy to get rid of it - make a long-burning boiler with your own hands, operating on almost all types of fuel (exceptionally solid, of course).

Principle of operation

The operation scheme of such boilers is based on the feature solid fuel smolder for several hours, producing a large number of thermal energy. It is typical that in this case the fuel is burned more completely, and the amount of waste, as a result, is noticeably reduced.

Note! Replacing active combustion with smoldering is possible due to the special design of the heating boiler.

The main element of the boiler is the firebox, where combustion is limited and the intensity of the air supply is controlled using special devices. The fuel is loaded twice a day in large portions, after which it slowly smolders (the limited amount of oxygen does not allow it to burn fully).

The pipe through which the smoke is removed is passed through heat exchangers and heats the liquid in the heating system. It turns out that all you need to do is load fuel every 12 hours for uninterrupted heating of the house.

Main advantages

Long burning boilers stand out against the background heating systems other types. Of course, the main advantage is the duration of the work, but there are other important points:

• low fuel cost;
• autonomy;
• the ability to heat large areas at minimal costs;
• ease of installation and operation;
• safety;
• Possibility of making it at home.

Device structure

It is more convenient to use for making a boiler metal pipeø30 cm or more with a wall thickness of at least 5 mm (otherwise the latter will soon burn out due to the high temperature inside the device). The height of the structure can vary between 80 cm and 100 cm, it all depends on the area of ​​the room.

Regardless of the modification, the boiler consists of three main zones:

• loading area;
• zones of smoldering and heat generation;
• final combustion zones where ash burns and smoke gases are removed.

Note! The device that limits the loading zone and, accordingly, the smoldering time is called an air distributor.

This element is made in the form of a metal circle 5-6 mm thick with a hole in the middle, through which oxygen is supplied to the firebox using a telescopic pipe. The diameter of the product should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the body. The height is adjusted using a special impeller.

Typically, the combustion zone does not exceed 5 cm in height - if it is larger, the fuel will burn too quickly. By the way, the oxygen pipe can be not only telescopic, but also solid. Its diameter is usually 6 cm, while the size of the hole in the air distributor does not exceed 2 cm, so as not to saturate the area with oxygen.

Air can be supplied in one of two ways:

• straight from the atmosphere;
• from a special heating chamber (it is located in the upper part of the structure), which provides more effective work boiler

A special air damper is used for adjustment.

The chimney pipe is welded on top. It must be perpendicular to the body for at least 0.5 m, otherwise excessive draft will be formed.

A door is equipped at the bottom to remove combustion products. Cleaning should be done infrequently, because the fuel will burn more completely.

There are two ways to heat the coolant, each has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Method number 1. A coil is connected to the heat exchanger pipe passing through the combustion zone, through which the water in the tank is heated.

Method number 2. A separate metal tank, through which the chimney pipe passes. The hot smoke heats the liquid.

The first method is more effective, but at the same time more difficult to implement. The second one is easier to do, but it is only practical in small houses.

Manufacturing a long-burning boiler

It is not difficult to make such a design at home, but this will require skills in working with welding machine and clear instructions.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

To make a boiler you will need:

After preparing the equipment and Supplies you can start working.

Stage 2. Assembling the structure

Note! The boiler must be installed on a flat surface. If required, equipped concrete base(here everything depends on the total weight of the structure).

The sequence of actions during assembly is as follows.

Step 1. The pipe, which will serve as the body of the structure, is cut in accordance with the selected length (from 0.8 to 1 m). If the length is longer, it will make it difficult to load fuel during operation. A bottom made of sheet steel and (if required) legs made of channel steel are welded.

Step 2. An air distributor is formed. To do this, a circle is cut out of a sheet of steel, the diameter of which is 2 cm less than the diameter of the structure. A hole ø2 cm is made in the center of the circle.

An impeller with 5-centimeter blades fixed to it, made of the same steel, is welded to the distributor. A ø6 cm pipe is welded on top so that the previously made hole is in the middle.

Note! This pipe should be equal in height to the boiler body (more is possible).

The pipe is equipped with a damper on top to regulate the oxygen supply.

Step 3. A door is installed near the bottom of the boiler to remove combustion products. Bulgarian from steel sheet a rectangle is cut out, the hinges with the locking handle are fixed. The rectangle will serve as the door.

Step 4. A chimney pipe ø10 cm is attached to the top of the boiler. The first 40-45 cm of the pipe should run strictly horizontally, after which it is passed through a heat exchanger (the latter is made in the form of a metal container with water).

Step 5. The lid for the boiler is cut out and a hole is made in it for the air distributor. It is important that the lid fits as tightly as possible to the body, otherwise smoke will escape through the cracks.

Heating system assembly

From a simple boiler, where a full air supply is necessary throughout the entire volume of fuel combustion, the long-burning design, as noted earlier, is distinguished by the limitation of this supply. Moreover, the loading volume directly affects the burning time, so in our case the combustion chamber is loaded extremely tightly so that there are no gaps.

Test firing of the boiler

Step 1. Remove the top cover of the structure.

Step 2: Remove the air regulator.

Step 3. The boiler is loaded with fuel up to the level of the chimney pipe.

Step 4. A small amount of lighter fluid (diesel fuel, used oil, etc.) is poured over the top of the fuel.

Step 5. The air regulator is installed back, the cover is put on top.

Step 6. The air damper is opened to its maximum.

Step 7. A piece of paper is set on fire and thrown into the structure. When the fuel begins to smolder, the air damper closes.

Heating system. Harness

The fact that permanent combustion has begun can be judged by the smoke emerging from the chimney. As the fuel burns, a pipe of smaller diameter will lower along with the air regulator - using this kind of indicator, you can determine the amount of remaining fuel.

As a conclusion

The described boilers are used not only for heating houses, but also for winter heating of stables, sheds, greenhouses, etc. If the assembly and installation work were carried out correctly, the device will operate economically and absolutely safely, and any type of solid fuel can be used, including household waste.

In addition, boilers do not require constant monitoring; it is only necessary to determine in practice the period of time between loadings. It is worth remembering that the burning time depends not only on the volume of the structure, but also on the type of fuel.

Video - Do-it-yourself long-burning boiler

From seventy to one hundred thousand rubles - this is the average price of solid fuel boilers with a daily burning duration. But, having arc welding skills, you can make a long-burning boiler with your own hands. It will cost much less, and there are a sufficient number of schemes and designs. Let's talk about them.

How it works: why the wood doesn’t burn all at once

On this task for a long time Many designers struggled: how to make solid fuel boilers more convenient, increase their autonomy and reduce the time spent on maintenance. One of the first solutions was the development of portion and automatic feeding fuel. However, this approach has justified itself only in units that burn fuel formatted in size in the form of granules and briquettes.

Later, other features of the wood combustion process were noted. We know that the source of the flame is supported by the flow fresh air. The incoming air, when burned, forms a high-temperature gas, which quickly heats up the logs lying above the flame. And the higher the stack, the faster it burns.

Obviously, by preventing these two phenomena, longer work can be achieved. For example, if you burn the wood placed in the boiler shaft not from the bottom up, but only from the top. Another innovation was implemented in generator-type boilers. The wood burns in them, but gets very hot, forming pyrolysis gas. At its high temperature, it only needs a small amount of oxygen to flare up and flare up even stronger.

Generation of pyrolysis gas is possible only with a limited supply of oxygen, sufficient to maintain smoldering in the firebox, and not too large so that the gas does not burn out prematurely. Both described principles can be relatively easily implemented in home-made devices.

Disadvantages of DIY

Please note, however, that calculating the final power and combustion parameters is not so simple. In particular, the generation efficiency depends on both the traction force and the wood used (humidity, type). Besides this, there is whole line purely technological nuances, difficult to implement in a home workshop.

First of all, this is the material of manufacture. The combustion temperature of generator gas is slightly higher than firewood and can reach 800 °C. Under these conditions, structural steel can only operate with a significant intrinsic heat capacity, that is, the thickness of the walls of the combustion chambers must be about 12 mm or even more. Heat-resistant steel grades can also be used, but only if suitable processing and bonding means are available. Unfortunately, there are no other ways: all other products have a short service life before burning out (no more than 10 years), and undergo a change in shape due to internal stresses.

Another problem is that stable operation requires a special shape of the chambers and their separators. In conditions of factory stamping and automatic welding, it is possible to create arbitrarily complex shapes, but in home production, a bizarre system of channels cannot be created. This leads to increased aerodynamic resistance of the boiler and does not allow for normal draft. The inverse flow of the top blast can be compensated either by a very high (about 10-12 m) pipe exhaust duct, or forced draft due to an electric smoke exhauster.

Installation of the latter is strictly recommended for all long-burning boilers without exception. During the day, the force of natural draft can change, which leads to incomplete combustion of the generator gas and its accumulation in an explosive concentration even inside the boiler room.

Mine boiler - we analyze the diagram

A boiler with a shaft vertical loading has a body in the form of a high (up to 2 meters) column of square or round profile with an internal cross-section of about 0.3 m 2. This column has a solid bottom and, possibly, an outer casing that limits thermal radiation from the hot walls.

A structure very similar to the plunger of a disposable syringe is lowered into the firebox. The wide slab at the base exactly repeats internal profile shafts, forming gaps at the walls of 4-6 mm. The gap acts as a nozzle and restricts the flow of air through the combustion chamber, so precise fit is important here. The piston rod is a 100 mm steel pipe with a length no less than the total height of the shaft, welded through the center of the plate.

The chimney duct is located on the side of the shaft with a distance of 200 mm from the top edge. This is an ordinary steel sleeve welded through one of the walls of the shaft. Another 250 mm lower inside the shaft, a hoop of wire 4-5 mm thick is welded along its walls. The clearance of the shaft is limited, but it is still sufficient for the passage of the piston.

It rests on the resulting side steel plate, exactly like on a piston. A 250-300 mm hole is made in its center, along the edge of which a steel strip bent into a ring is welded, forming a side 70-80 mm high. There is a similar edge along the outer edge.

Now we have the bottom of the chamber for mixing and burning pyrolysis gases. Its function is to localize secondary combustion, because otherwise the volume of the fireplace will increase with the piston sagging as the fuel burns out, with a consequent drop in boiler efficiency. Another detail is the boiler lid. This is the third slab, but with dimensions along the outer contours of the shaft. At the edges it has a small (30-40 mm) side for a tight rebate, and in the center a 120 mm hole is made and a sleeve is inserted, protruding up and down 250-300 mm.

Incorporation of a water heat exchanger into the design

The resulting chamber has a volume of about 0.15-0.2 m 3; any heat exchanger can be placed in it relatively freely, but heat-resistant cold-drawn tubular coils are mainly used. Its ends pass through the walls of the boiler and are supplied with 5-6 turns pipe thread- everything is as usual.

It is much more important to solve another problem: after installing the heat exchanger, the piston can no longer be pulled out, but then how to lay the firewood? For these purposes, two holes are cut in the front wall of the boiler and two rectangular steel sleeves are welded for mounting hinged doors.

One of them is small, approximately 200 mm high, and it is installed in the upper part of the boiler, exactly opposite the pyrolysis combustion chamber above the support ring. With its help, you can control the combustion process and regulate draft, so it is better to choose options with tempered glass.

The second door should be almost as wide as the boiler shaft. It is designed for loading and igniting fuel, as well as removing ash after it burns out. The opening must be placed below the support ring.

There are also alternative options. The boiler, for example, may have a tank encircling the body, or be wrapped with ordinary seamless steel pipe for 3-4 turns. The heat exchanger must be placed in the upper part of the boiler, although the rest of the outer surface (including the chimney) is suitable for collecting heat with all kinds of economizers.

Optional equipment

It remains only to make some improvements. First, let's make the distribution of primary air throughout the generator center more efficient. To do this, weld 6-8 parabolic-shaped petals perpendicularly onto the piston plate to form a kind of impeller.

The second useful addition to such a boiler is its correct piping. A recirculation unit must be installed between the supply and return of the internal heat exchanger, which will not allow the water temperature in the boiler to drop below 50-60 °C. Otherwise, the formation of condensation from residual moisture and rapid corrosion of the walls is inevitable.

Weld a small pin to the top of the piston pipe and place a damper with a hole on it to regulate the amount of air supplied to the generator. Also, you should not replace the smoke exhauster with a blower fan, which is much more difficult to set up. The exhaust pump must be installed at a point in the chimney 2 meters away from the boiler. It is optimal if radiator fins are installed on this section of the pipe.

In remote settlements where there is no gas pipeline, heating houses is still a serious issue. Traditional coal and wood fuel are still used everywhere, although with the advent of new technologies they have become not the only solution. Moreover, such stoves cause a lot of trouble - cleaning from soot and removing ash, temperature changes in the heated room and irrational fuel consumption. Beautiful, modern version Old stoves will be replaced by homemade long-burning wood-burning boilers. It's relative new design boilers operating on solid fuel. The power of the unit is sufficient to heat not only residential, but also production premises. Another positive point is that without it special labor you can assemble it yourself.

Principle of operation

Long-term combustion in the boiler will depend on the processes occurring inside it, which in turn depend on its special design. The operating technology of the boiler differs from a conventional stove in that the wood burns first at the top, gradually capturing the bottom. Conventional stoves are designed in such a way that the firewood burned from below with a hot stream ignites the remaining, upper layers, which leads to rapid burning of the fuel. And in order for the stove not to cool down for a long time, it is necessary to constantly add fuel.

Homemade long-burning boilers are designed completely differently. The top layer burns first, and then each subsequent one. Simultaneously with the combustion of the lower layers of firewood, decay products (ash, soot) also burn out. Once fuel is added, it will smolder for about 30 hours.

Advantages of long-burning boilers

Do-it-yourself long-burning boilers have special advantages over factory models:

1. The time it takes for complete combustion of the fuel depends on the size of the firebox, while the efficiency remains 80-85%. Self-production will allow you to make a firebox of any size.
2. To be able to load several logs into the chamber (for example, for heating in cool or damp weather), you can cut an additional door in the boiler body, between the openings for normal fuel loading and for ash. Factory units are not equipped with such a door.
3. A homemade long-burning unit will cost 2-3 times less than a factory product.
4. To make a homemade long-burning boiler with a water circuit, you can use more thick metal so that the homemade version of the boiler becomes more durable and can operate at higher pressure.
5. A homemade long-burning boiler can be equipped according to your requirements and preferences, for example, automatic and safety valve. This will make it safer and more comfortable.
6. Repairing a long-burning boiler made by yourself is much easier, because you will know the technology of its assembly.

Popular designs of homemade boilers

Finding fuel for a boiler usually does not arise, since in many localities there are wood processing enterprises and sawmills, where waste from processing logs can be found at low prices (and sometimes free). The issue is even more easily resolved in coal-mining regions.

Solid fuel boilers are capable of “digesting” not only firewood or coal, but also sawdust, pellets, and peat.

To make a boiler yourself, barrels, cylinders, large-diameter pipes, tanks and other suitable cylindrical containers are used as the body. Thick steel or cast iron is mainly used. Let's consider the main advantages and disadvantages of each material:

1. Steel. Positive qualities A boiler made of steel is its strength, lower cost, easy welding and quick warm-up. Metal is easy to repair, and products made from it are more airtight. Minus this decision is that the formation of condensation can destroy the body of a steel firebox. In factory versions to protect metal from condensation, inner surface The boiler is protected by a ceramic lining. At homemade production it will not be possible to build such an insert.
2. Cast iron. Everyone knows the properties of cast iron - resistance to corrosion, durability high temperatures, long-term heat dissipation and durability. The disadvantage of cast iron is its fragility and heavy weight. In addition, the cost of a cast iron product will be quite high.

Consumers still prefer to use homemade options long-burning boilers made of steel.

Homemade long-burning boilers must ensure proper air supply, as well as regulation of combustion processes. To fulfill these conditions, you must:

• choose quality and available materials;
• correctly calculate the power of the future unit;
• have a drawing of a homemade boiler for heating a private house;
• have the skills to work with a welding machine and make high-quality seams;
• follow the installation technology.

If you want to get a homemade heating boiler for a private home, which will also provide you hot water, then you can put the heat exchanger inside the water jacket. This must be done at the assembly stage, until the top cover is installed. After these manipulations, all the necessary pipes, the chimney, and the jacket are welded to the boiler body.

The main elements that complement homemade long-burning wood-burning boilers are a pressure gauge, an air vent, a thermometer, and a fuse valve. If desired and for your convenience, you can add an air blower, a smoke exhauster and the automation that controls them. For some elements you will need to install separate control units.

There are many options for homemade heating boilers, from very simple to complex structures. Let's look at the most common ones.

Iron pipe

For a homemade long-burning unit, you need a piece of pipe 85 cm long and about 30 cm in diameter. A pipe installed at the top of the structure must remove carbon monoxide. The chimney must be at least 10 cm in diameter. It is connected to the boiler body by welding.

To load firewood, a small door must be cut into the lower part of the boiler body. And to ensure air flow and clean the boiler from ash, it is necessary to install grates.

Then, inside the body of the homemade boiler, you need to install a small diameter pipe and connect it to the heating system through which the coolant will move. The pipeline is installed at a slight angle necessary for natural circulation coolant. Hot liquid can be used not only for heating, but also for other household needs. Dampers for regulating the flow of water from the tank are placed in convenient location outside.

Barrel

When creating a homemade boiler for water heating, you can use an ordinary barrel, the upper rim of which is removed and well leveled. The lid for a homemade boiler must fit tightly to its body, be durable and fire-resistant. A hole for the exit of carbon monoxide is cut about 15 cm, and for oxygen access another hole is about 10 cm. The chimney itself is positioned strictly vertically, but at a slight angle.

One of the most critical moments of production homemade model long burning, is to install a damper. If it is positioned low, the fuel will burn out very quickly.

In order to increase the combustion time of fuel, another “folk” method has been invented - to use a load that presses the firewood. If you use it simultaneously with a movable air distributor, you can achieve 60-hour combustion.

Potbelly stove

These stoves have been known for many years, they were especially widely used during wars, when there was simply no alternative to heating rooms. The potbelly stove not only kept people warm, it was also possible to cook food on it.

Currently, such structures are still used in summer cottages or in facilities under construction. But modern models Such stoves, in addition to heating the room, also supply 1-2 radiators with hot water, which helps distribute heat throughout a room of about 30 square meters.

Conclusion

For high-quality, correct and long work homemade boiler, it is necessary to maintain it technically correctly. To prevent breakdowns, it is necessary to inspect the boiler at the time of leakage and periodically clean it from ash and soot.

We’ll learn how to make a long-burning wood-burning boiler with our own hands in the next video.