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Paving slabs are an element of decorative design of residential areas. Recently, it has become a real calling card of the adjacent territories.

Paving slabs, just like paving stones, differ relatively low cost, and if the hard road surface is made by hand, then the total cost of consumables is significantly reduced. How to make paving slabs at home? Before proceeding with the manufacture of paving slabs at home, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the theoretical aspect of the issue.

Production of paving slabs at home: manufacturing principles

In industrial conditions, the production process of paving slabs is put on stream. In a short time, huge batches of tiles and paving stones leave the factory. In the manufacture of paving slabs at home production principles somewhat change. The basic technological algorithm remains unchanged, only the volume of the produced material and its type are adjusted. High-quality work will allow you to achieve paving slabs, which will not be inferior to the factory model.

Manufacturing technology do-it-yourself paving slabs is based on two directions: vibrocasting method and vibrocompression method. Both can be used at home, with special equipment. Separate devices can be built with your own hands.

Undried tile material contains a small amount of liquid. The raw concrete mass in both production methods is affected by a vibration wave to eliminate accumulated air bubbles. During vibrocasting, the solution acquires a more liquid consistency, so it is fed into flexible forms. There it is kept until the initial drying. The second method, as its name suggests, is to apply pressure to form tile segments in a matrix. For this, a special vibration platform is used. After such mechanical influences, the workpieces are removed and put to dry.

Necessary equipment and materials

Since the tiles are made of concrete, the first step is to take care of purchasing concrete mixer. It is better if it is a forced action concrete mixer, functioning like a mixer. You can not do without a vibrating table, molds for casting and lubrication, concrete mix, metal rods for reinforcement, racks for drying finished products.

For drying in one layer under a canopy, a large area of ​​free space is required. It is impossible for the completed forms to be stacked on top of each other. Products are placed on shelves so that there is a clearance of at least 20 cm between them.

In building hypermarkets, you can purchase casting molds of any size and various configurations. There are forms from:

• rubber (the most durable);
• plastics;
• polyurethane.

The range is very wide, the manufacturer makes them on an individual order, whether forms with drawings, textured surface or molds for glossy paving slabs.

Lubrication is needed to produce a trouble-free stripping of blanks after the concrete has hardened. It is purchased ready-made or made by hand. Protozoa lubricant recipe: 100 g of mineral oil are mixed with three liters of water until an emulsion is formed.

The main thing: it is necessary to achieve the required level of fat content, otherwise the lubricant can give the finished tiles an unpresentable appearance.

How to prepare a mortar for paving slabs?

Making mortar for hard pavement - key moment the entire technological process. The solution consists of:

• hard crushed stone of non-metallic rock 2-10 mm or granite screenings or gravel;
• cleaned washed sand;
• Portland cement;
• concrete plasticizer;
• dry dyes;
• water.

The composition of the mortar for paving slabs varies depending on what properties of the finished product are of interest to the consumer.

There is nothing complicated in preparing a mixture for paving slabs or paving stones, but careful preparation of the components and methodical observance of all stages are required. The amount of each ingredient is easily calculated when the required proportions of the volume of substances are known.

First of all, prepare additional components- plasticizer and concrete dye. The latter is used for the production of colored paving slabs. In the manufacture of products of the usual gray color, the need for it disappears.

The plasticizer, as a rule, makes up no more than a percentage of the total amount of all parts of the mixture. To knead 80 liters of concrete, you need 400 g of plasticizer. It should be noted that it is not added in dry form. In small portions, 400 g of plasticizer are poured into 2 liters of water heated to 70 degrees.

The dye accounts for approximately 2% of all components of the polymer mixture. Approximately 700 g of the dye is added to water (2.5 l), heated to 50 degrees, and mixed thoroughly.

The inner walls of the concrete mixer must be moistened. For this purpose, the device is rinsed from the inside, then the water is drained. The ratio of the cement mixture to the liquid determines how strong the concrete product will be.

To get high-quality paving slabs, the concrete to be mixed must be half wet. This effect is achieved by adding 25% less water than cement. A good example: for six buckets of cement (this includes plasticizer and dye), four buckets of water are needed.

Water is first poured into the concrete mixer, after which a portion of cement is added. As a result mixing a homogeneous emulsion should be obtained. After adding screenings to the resulting emulsion, a solution is obtained that must be thoroughly mixed. Next, pour in the pre-diluted plasticizer and dye. The polymer composition is kneaded until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

You can make a mixture for paving slabs using manual mixing, but this method requires good physical preparation and additional time.

Forms for the manufacture of paving slabs

An important role in the manufacture of paving slabs is played by molds for the production of such a building product. The most common among them are plastic, rubber, polyurethane. Each type has its own characteristics and technical characteristics. So, molds made of rubber withstand about five hundred production cycles. Rubber molds do not steam, they do not need any additional equipment.

Often, when paving paths, they use paving stones, which has a relief surface. In such cases, it is advisable to use polyurethane molds. The mortar in them quickly seizes, and the finished elements are easily removed. Polyurethane synthetic fibers, being high-strength, practically do not allow the appearance of defective products. Forms made from this modern construction material can withstand about a hundred cycles without any complaints. How to make molds for tiles with your own hands?

Instructions for making a mold for paving slabs with your own hands:

• To make plastic molds, a special frame is prepared. The internal dimensions of the wooden frame must match the dimensions of the tiles. Plastic is melted and poured into the structure. After the plastic hardens (approximately 40–60 minutes), the finished mold is removed. The uneven edges of the resulting product are processed using sandpaper.
• If pouring silicone is used to make molds, then a pre-prepared container matrix is ​​required. It can be made from any durable material. The seams are covered with a sealant. Screws are used to fasten the walls of the container. The frame is cleaned and degreased. Silicone ingredients are mixed in the right ratio: base, hardener, catalyst. Sculptural plasticine is placed in a thick layer in the matrix. A model is placed on top of the plastic material, which is used to take an impression. Before that, it is lubricated with sunflower oil. Next, pour in a thin stream of silicone. After 24 hours, the materials will harden, and the finished forms are taken out of the container. Small defects and irregularities are removed with scissors.
• You can make a wooden form without a bottom using bars. From prepared wooden planks fastened with metal corners, you can get a rectangular, square or hexagonal molding structure.

Why do you need a vibrating table?

The procedure for the manufacture of paving slabs involves the use of an equipped vibrating table. Beginners in this business are strongly advised to use vibrating table, since it is unlikely that without its use it is possible to obtain high-quality paving slabs or paving stones. This is due to the fact that even the most plastic material is not able to tightly fill the mold without the formation of air voids.

Not everyone can afford expensive equipment, so you can make a vibrating table yourself. You will need an unnecessary electric motor in working condition and two thick plywood sheets. The engine is attached to these sheets of plywood from two opposite sides. A metal disk is fixed to the rotating shaft of the engine, which, when the mechanism is turned on, creates vibration. A homemade design is placed on tires from a car.

Forms filled with cement composition are laid out on a vibrating table, which is turned on for 15-20 seconds. This time is enough for the solution to thicken and air cavities disappear from it. Elimination of air space and compaction of the mixture significantly improves strength future paving slabs. A finished paving element that has not been compacted by vibration exposure will soon collapse. Such a tile is used only as a temporary track. This fact must be taken into account when it comes to the question of how to make a tiled road surface so that it lasts for many years.

How to properly reinforce paving slabs?

The increase in the strength of the pavement contributes to reinforcement of tiles metal elements. Both building reinforcing mesh, hot-rolled wire, and pieces of conventional reinforcement are used. Metal pieces are covered with unpainted cement mortar, tamped and smoothed the surface.

With the described technology for the production of paving slabs, the front side is placed at the bottom of the mold. This circumstance creates difficulties: it is impossible to follow the pattern, color and condition of the front side.

To be able to control everything, it is necessary to lay the cement mixture and reinforcement in the reverse order. This will allow you to qualitatively apply a pattern to the tile, deepening each blank to the desired level.

Perform if desired blank ironing. Thanks to this procedure, the product acquires special strength, and its surface becomes more even and smooth. Dry cement is poured onto the damp surface and smoothed with a spatula. Also, a small amount of cement can be rubbed with a brush.

Drying and stripping

Forms with a solution are placed on racks for further drying. It lasts approximately 2-4 days. The place for drying products is chosen so that direct sunlight does not fall there, it should be good ventilation. To reduce the rate of evaporation of moisture from the cement composition, the molds are covered with a film of polyethylene.

If the forms were made with their own hands from wooden planks, then the mount is removed at some joint, after which the frame is moved apart and the tile is removed. The tile is laid in one layer and dried for ten days in a ventilated area in order to become more durable.

To release the tile from the polyurethane mold, it is dipped into a bath of water heated to 70 degrees. The polymer will soften, and the tile can be easily removed from the mold. The product is dried in a cool place. In ten days the paving elements are ready for operation.

People like paving slabs more than asphalt. They want to see her near their entrance too. Owners of private houses do not depend or rely on others in this sense, and do everything themselves. For reasons of economy, they can manufacture paving slabs at home.

Paving slabs are called, in fact, paving stones. Historically, in cities, this surface has been replaced by asphalt, which takes on a much more even shape. Modern paving slabs are a neat and technological material with a beautiful, more status look, they also have a smaller thickness. While they are trying to save the historical pavement, and the new paved areas are being replaced, they are inventing varieties of material for the streets of the future. Masters in laying paving slabs do not make extra efforts when working with it, and as a result, another beautiful location appears.

Advantages and disadvantages of paving slabs

A feature and at the same time the advantage of the material is the appearance. Paving stones transform the roadway and sidewalks on city streets and near individual buildings, collecting simple and unique compositions.

The variability of application, the second important advantage, leaves moves for all occasions. Lay paving stones on any surface, almost anywhere, with any shape. The foundation is not poured under it, which means that the finish can be disassembled for work with a recess in the ground and then laid back without damage. Especially if you act carefully. In which case, the tile is even transferred to another place.

Physical characteristics will also please the consumer. The material tolerates shocks well, and in terms of frost resistance it can withstand up to 300 freeze-thaw cycles, vibropressed paving stones, for example. In conditions of heavy rainfall, less resistant cast tiles will last up to 10 years.

Minor disadvantages:

• sags under heavy objects;
• costs more than alternatives;
• low-quality products absorb moisture strongly and break easily.

Features of production at home

The technologies for making paving stones are simple and complex. The prices for equipment and the level of expenses allow at least thinking about the production of vibrocast tiles at home. To accommodate the "mini-production" choose the territory adjacent to the house.

The time costs will be large, despite the fact that manually, in fact, nothing needs to be done. At the same time, there is no need to buy everything at once, as is the case with factory products. The load on the repair budget will be insignificant, because the process will take at least 2 months, and if desired, it can be increased to four.

Among the manufacturing technologies, vibrocasting, vibrocompression and the use of formwork for pouring should be distinguished. As already mentioned, the first one is better than the others for home conditions, especially if the owner does not want the products to have a handicraft look. Just in case, there is an option with imitation of paving stones with stamps on a concrete surface that has not yet hardened.

The choice of form for the manufacture of tiles

Use plastic, polyurethane, silicone, wooden, metal and other templates. In addition to the material, molds and the possibilities that they give, you should decide on the configuration of the finished products. You can not hastily choose the shape of the tile. At the same time, if there is no desire to create unusual patterns, hexagons, rounded polygons, as well as wavy and brick-shaped tiles will suffice. The first step is to think over the layout on the site, down to the smallest details.

Molds are permanent, semi-permanent and one-time. The first type is used to cast a large amount of background paving stones. Semi-permanent ones are made from heat-resistant materials. One-time after the first use, they are noticeably deformed and will not work when laying large compositions. Polyurethane and silicone have become popular materials for making at home. Forms from them can last a long time, and the quality of the tiles will be at a decent level.

Polyurethane mold

Polyurethane molds are suitable for hand-pouring art casting. At the same time, it is also used for machine and conveyor methods. Templates made of polyurethane compounds have high adhesion to most materials. In this case, so that the product does not stick, use separating compounds. Polyurethane compounds have a low viscosity, which helps to fill the entire volume, including the smallest gaps. They are "not afraid" of moisture and temperature changes. Electrical insulation and physical and mechanical characteristics are also at a high level. Curing of paving slabs in polyurethane molds occurs with little or no shrinkage. Low-viscosity cold-curing compounds are the best polyurethane option for tile, but molds for curing at around 50°C are also suitable for making tile.

Silicone matrix

Advantages of containers of this type:

• elasticity;
• durability;
• do not crack;
• do not dry out.

It is justified to use silicone matrices just the same for individual preparation in household needs. The elasticity and flexibility of these templates allows you to accurately mimic the texture and relief of lumber, stone, and even plant leaves. Like polyurethane, silicone matrices are used to make decorative and simple functional tiles. You should not buy overall blocks of several elements for pouring. If you do not limit yourself to ordinary matrices and medium-sized cellular ones, then then you will have to solve the problem with deformed edges in products along the edges of the block. Factory-made silicone templates are relatively expensive, so it makes sense to get by with molds for about 30 tiles. In the course of work, containers must be cleaned of greasy stains and disinfected, but at the same time, grease must also be used.

Tile manufacturing technologies

In individual production, vibrocasting technology is used more often. The method is inferior to vibrocompression in terms of the reliability of finished products, but it allows you to create textures, textured patterns, bright colors and complex shapes. Among the advantages of the technology, they note the economical consumption of the plasticizer compared to pouring into the formwork, the price range, and relatively easy technical conditions for manufacturing. The essence of the process is to conduct vibrating pulses through the solution in the form.

Vibropressing makes the tile much denser. After the procedure, the finishing properties are close to artificial stone. Vibropressed paving stones are used on park paths, sidewalks, parking areas, places where heavy equipment sometimes passes. Products are paving stones in the classical sense of the word, because they have more compact dimensions with a large thickness. During the manufacturing process, the mixture is subjected to press blows. The surface of the material is rough and with a pale color.

Necessary equipment and tools

You will need, firstly, a concrete mixer. Enough of a small option, and the equipment can be borrowed or rented. The volume of the tank should contain and mix all the ingredients of the mixture so that even the slightest lumps do not form. The composition is then compacted in a mold, and a vibrating table is chosen as equipment. Tile indicators for strength, moisture resistance and weather resistance during processing will increase by 30%. The table will have to be made independently, because its cost will be unreasonably high. We'll have to buy molds for tiles, find buckets and basins. Molds are better to buy plastic or silicone. Homemade lumber is also suitable. For convenience, items should be stacked on racks. Do not do without measuring containers for dosing pigments and plasticizer. In addition, you will need a kitchen scale.

The choice of materials for the preparation of the solution

You will need to choose:

1. Filler;
2. Lubricant.

Start, of course, with the choice of cement. Portland cements are mainly used, with or without additives. The white finish is better, as there are more options for adding shades. The filler is chosen small and large. Frost resistance depends on the first component, and strength depends on the second. A plasticizer is added to water to give it and other blended components good performance, durability, frost flexibility, condensation resistance and high temperature resistance. Dyes are used at the stage of kneading or on the finished product. Used, including natural and synthetic, for coloring and texture formation. Grease is bought in order to make it easier to get the tile out of the molds. A good composition will not spoil either the template or the paving stone itself.

The quality of paving slabs is regulated by GOST 17608-91, which is worth focusing on. In the norms, we are talking about the necessary frost resistance. In this sense, the quality of cement plays no less a role than the overall composition and proportions. A modification of the M500 from the group of Portland cements is suitable. She has more strength, and the material seizes earlier than the M400 mixtures and lower on the scale. The M500 grade may have mineral additives with a share of up to 20%. There are also completely inclusion-free varieties of this raw material. Among the modifications, it is worth noting PC II / A-Sh 500 with mineral additives and PC I-500 - pure. Paving slabs made of cement of the second type can withstand pressure up to 500 kg / m². Ordinary gray Portland cement is made from gypsum and low-iron clinker. White cement M500 is better for creating colored tiles, but it is more difficult to work with.

Fillers are divided into large and small. The first group includes crushed stone, pebbles and gravel, and the second group includes screenings, slag, small crushed stone.

Small additives are grains with a diameter of 0.16 to 5 mm, which close the gaps as they grow. The grain size is controlled with a sieve. The resulting fractions with a dust content of not more than 5% are then distributed in the granulometric module. Clay and organic impurities should not be present among them, because frost resistance will suffer from this.

In cement mortars, large fractions of more than 5 mm, crushed stone, pebbles and gravel are also used. Crushed stone elements have an irregular shape and a rough coating. Pebbles and gravel are smoother, but crushed stone, due to its inorganic nature, has better strength indicators and is more suitable for thin tiles. There are also more impurities in pebbles and gravel.

The tool is classified depending on the basis:

• TOTM, trioctyl trimellitate;
• DUO 1 / DUO 2, complex plasticizers;
• 3G8, triethylene glycol dioctate;
• DOA, dioctyl adipate;
• DINP, diisononyl phthalate;
• GPO, diethylhexyl phthalate;
• DOP, dioctyl phthalate.

DOA is the best in terms of hardness and stiffness, retains good flexibility at low temperatures. The 3G8 plasticizer holds the first place in the last parameter. It also lasts a long time and has decent performance. DUO 1 excels in terms of cold flexibility, maximum temperature before breaking, as well as in terms of durability and performance. The DUO 2 modification practically does not differ from the superplasticizer DUO 1, with the only difference that it has low flexibility at low temperatures, and instead it has better resistance to condensate. The first place in general is unconditionally given to the plasticizer TOTM. It is better in all indicators for which the DUO2 superplasticizer is rated as good. DINP is generally considered one of the weakest options, but it has a high resistance to condensation. GPO and DOP are inferior in that none of the indicators can be called high quality.

As the initial coloring elements, sulfides, soot, salts and oxides of chromium, iron, titanium are used. In addition, powders of zinc, nickel, aluminum, copper, and also its alloys are used. Decorativeness in terms of shade and texture is given precisely by pigments in solution. A similar result is also achieved by acid etching. For example, the effects of marble, diabase, granite, serpentine or aged look. Dyes for concrete and specifically paving slabs are natural, metallic and synthetic. Natural mined from minerals and rocks as a result of grinding, heat treatment and enrichment. Synthetic refers to complex compounds obtained as a result of technological and chemical processes with high calculation accuracy. For exterior painting choose alkyd, polyurethane, epoxy, acrylic and rubber paints.

Enamels and primer-enamels with inclusions in the form of granotsev, corundum, quartz sand are also used for painting finished products.

A good lubricant does not spoil the shape and color, does not let air through, its composition is suitable for dilution with water, applying a thin layer. Dried tiles are easily removed from molds treated with a lubricating solution with the above characteristics. Templates should not get dirty.

Grease KSF-1 has a homogeneous composition and is soluble in cold and hot water. It is used for metal and plastic molds. The Crystal lubricant is based on mineral oils. Apply it with a brush or sprayer. Nometal has anti-corrosion properties. Those who want to save money buy Agate lubricant. For formwork, concentrated adhesive compounds are used, including those with silicone bases. Another budget option, Emulsol has a mineral base. Some of the mixtures are concentrated, they are diluted with water.

Proportions, composition and rules for preparing the solution

As a rule, the following means are used:

• cement;
• sand;
• water;
• plasticizer;
• rubble.

Optionally add pigments and dispersant.

Since it makes sense to paint tiles for a private allotment, you should adhere to or at least focus on the proportion where there will be 57% crushed stone, 23% cement and 20% sand. The plasticizer is added in an amount of 0.5% by weight of cement. All dry ingredients are diluted 40% with water. As for pigments and dispersants, they are allocated 700 ml/m² and 90 g/m², respectively.

The composition of the water for the solution does not hurt to investigate for the content of inclusions in excess, which can affect performance. Drinking water for the preparation of the mixture is suitable. Before use, the solution is stirred, as its components gradually delaminate. Ready-made mortar can also not be used if it has partially set. At a temperature of +30 ° C and above, humidity below 50%, water-retaining particles, lime or clay are added to the mixture.

Coloring tiles at home

Products are painted superficially or at the time of manufacture. Paints like alkyd and polyurethane are applied from above. In the second case, oxides and dioxides of chromium, iron or titanium are added to the mixture. Consumers are offered to buy luminescent pigments, which accumulate light during the day and emit radiance at night. They are used both for tinting and for surface staining. You can also give color at home by acid etching. Active substances in reaction with concrete give the coating non-uniform shades of any color. Figured parts are decorated with mixtures of paints and primers. Then a concentrated substance is added to the solution by a tenth of the volume, and the remaining 90% is filled with a primer for water-based paint. The color will last for a long time, and the strength of the finish will increase.

How to properly dry tiles

First, conditions are created in order to quickly transfer the manufactured paving stones. Already then the tiles are made. The place for drying should not be damp or cold.

When it seems that the tile is already dry, it still cannot be taken out of the molds. Approximately another 30% of the elapsed time will be needed for the material to dry at the points of contact with the template. Strongly adhered edges will indicate the likely damage to the tile in the future. For high-quality drying, a temperature of +10 ° C is sufficient, and the optimum is at +20 ° C. The room is chosen with heating, which several times reduces the risk of marriage due to poor drying. The heat treatment method also improves product characteristics. Then the tiles are placed in the curing chambers. The temperature in them is about +50 ° C, and the drying efficiency is increased by a humidity of 95-97%.

Ideas for making paving slabs with your own hands

One of the elementary ideas is a pattern of rhombic elements of 2 different colors. There are no problems with the arrangement of fragments with this method.

In simple dachas, one can notice tiled fragments with large distances between each other, filled with composite material. It is not difficult to make tiles for such an application, because any molds will do.

Someone buys geometrically correct templates with chaotic lines inside. It will be easy to plan the site if the templates are close in shape to a square or a short rectangle.

Products for wood cuts and small chaotic elements will be more effective than those already listed. The first to equip a colorful environment in the spirit of wildlife. Chaotic blocky fragments from a stencil, when properly arranged, will resemble an interesting parched surface.

Tiles "Wooden cut" in silicone mold

Concrete tile "Cut wood" imitates a cut segment of the trunk. It is used especially with wooden buildings, as well as for laying paths through the lawn.

In order to preserve the rich color of the imitation tile, it should be painted with concentrated dyes and, in addition, to achieve great strength for the finish itself. The shape must be given with a silicone template. It is made according to the outlines of a real cut with the addition of a relief on the inner faces at your discretion. The bottom layer will become annual rings, and the main one will take the form of sides. The first layer is made of sand with the addition of cement and water with a plasticizer. It is gently rubbed with a spatula to a perfectly even layer up to 0.5 cm thick. Due to non-compliance with the described technology, spots will appear on the "annual rings". If pigments from different parts of the product fall over the edge, they are painted over manually.

A simple device in the form of a mesh mesh will give the material an interesting shape and the desired thickness. With the help of a grid, large areas are immediately laid out or they go the other way and use the tiles for gradual laying in a mosaic pattern. It will be easier to place the fragments sequentially if the edges of the stencil have the correct shape.

They make templates from polyurethane, silicone, plastic, etc. Silicone is used to create unusual paving. From metal sheets or wood you get a good homemade stencil. The factory grid will last for at least 200 manufacturing cycles.

With a heterogeneous style design, paving stones with a wavy shape are used. It is laid out in transition zones. Classics are made from even elements. Modern style is conveyed thanks to rounded products.

Safety rules at work

The first step is to protect the moving parts of the equipment, as well as install thermal insulation for units that operate at high temperatures. The work is carried out mainly in the open air, but if premises are involved, then ventilation is provided. Among other things, toxic substances and dust will have to be removed from the premises. Separate ventilation is also made for the equipment used. Units, installations and electric motors are grounded to avoid sparks and the formation of static electricity.

Technological actions should be carried out in overalls with additional protective equipment for the face and body. You need to work at comfortable temperatures, humidity, and also under the condition of sound pressure acceptable to the body.

If involved workers are involved in the manufacture of tiles, then a workplace project should be drawn up.

Conclusion

It is unlikely that it will be possible to ennoble the area around the house in a month or two. But during this time, theoretically, you can have time to lay out beautiful sidewalks, paths and ways for traffic. Craftsmen rent small equipment, collect improvised materials, bring raw materials from nearby places and create a tiled floor. In what version it will be, simple or artistic, depends on the time spent. Before the start of the main stages of work, the shape of the tile and templates for its manufacture are selected. As for the method of manufacture, vibrocasting is mainly preferred, because it is easier, more convenient and simpler. In this case, the physical characteristics of the products will only slightly yield to those of vibropressed tiles. The selection of methods and materials does not end there. The question of color remains open. The mixture is either tinted in the process, or the already solidified tile is dyed.

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  We make paving slabs with our own hands
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Paving slabs are an aesthetic material that is resistant to various external factors. However, its cost is also significant, so many owners of country houses are thinking about how to make paving slabs with their own hands.

A step-by-step instruction will help in the manufacture of paving slabs with your hands.

. We purchase the necessary materials

To make paving slabs with your own hands, you need cement and sand. Additional components are dyes and superplasticizer. The latter is needed to increase the strength characteristics of products and their resistance to frost.

paving slabs with hands step by step instructions. A photo

. We select equipment

Of the equipment for the production of paving slabs with their own hands, a vibrating table and molds are required. vibrating table- a special device that creates small vibrations. Due to this, the mixture is compacted and the tile acquires the necessary strength. Buying such a device for home use is not profitable. If there are no rental options, then you can use improvised options. For example, the old washing machine, which remains in working condition if it vibrates strongly enough in any mode.

The next required equipment is forms. Further there will be information on how to make molds for paving slabs with your own hands, but in some cases it is more convenient to use ready-made ones.

how to make paving slabs with your own hands. A photo

Ready-made molds are rubber, plastic and polyurethane. Most durable rubber. They withstand five hundred castings. Least durable polyurethane. They are able to survive only a hundred castings. in the middle plastic- two hundred and fifty castings. Rubber and plastic molds are more expensive than polyurethane molds.

. Production technology

Preparing to fill out the forms mixture. The number of components will be as follows. For five kilograms of cement, twice as much pure fine sand and thirty grams are taken superplasticizer. Dye is added as desired.

paving slabs with their own hands at home. A photo

All components are thoroughly mixed first in a dry form. Then water is added, which is poured in small portions. The result should be a homogeneous and fairly viscous mixture. Water should not be too much. From a liquid solution, insufficiently strong products are obtained.

In addition to the main components, fine gravel or screenings can be added to the solution. It will make the paving stones more durable and give it a natural appearance. In this case, the ratio of components changes slightly. Thirty grams of superplasticizer and two parts of cement, sand and gravel are taken.

Before pouring the solution, the mold is lubricated with a special emulsion. There are many kinds of them. However, you can use a simpler option - dishwashing detergent. This liquid is applied with a brush to the entire inner surface of the mold.

production of paving slabs with their own hands. A photo

After processing all forms, it is poured into them solution. To do this, the containers are filled halfway and placed on vibrating table or a device that replaces it. Vibration is turned on and then the forms are filled to the brim.

After some time, the forms are transferred to the room and covered film so that the concrete does not dry out too quickly. After about two days, do-it-yourself paving slabs are removed from the mold.

For quick extraction, the mold with the tile is lowered into hot water (80 degrees). The shape expands and the tile is easy to reach.

The finished tile is placed on a pallet or a pallet of boards and covered with a film. Better the first ten days of her withstand in the utility room, i.e. under the roof. After that, she is taken out into the street and left for another month so that she gains strength.

Paving slabs with river pebbles

There are many options for paving slabs. Additional components are often added to the main solution, for example, river pebbles or other stones. Consider how to make paving slabs with your hands in step-by-step instructions.

The manufacture of paving slabs with their own hands begins with preparation solution. To do this, we take a plastic basin or other container, as well as a measuring container. Pour one part of cement and three parts of sand into the basin.

Pour water into the mixture, stirring constantly. The consistency of the finished solution should be pasty.

To make interesting paving slabs with your own hands, you should prepare not only the mortar, but also the stones. Pebbles of an interesting shape and color are selected.

Required to make tiles the form. It can be made in the form of a wooden formwork. If tiles of different sizes are required, then you can additionally take polyethylene flat containers.

do-it-yourself molds for paving slabs. A photo

The molding process is more convenient to perform on a plank platform covered with polyethylene. The formwork is placed on the platform. The bottom is smeared with used machine oil so that the concrete does not stick to the film.

concrete mortar spread trowel and distributed over the entire area. It should be laid out gradually, smoothing the composition and tamping it down.

After creating an even cement layer, lay out on its surface pebbles. The layout is carried out taking into account the color and size of the stones so that the entire area is filled.

After laying, the stones are pressed into the solution with a trowel. This process will require the use of force. At the same time, similar procedures are performed in small molds. Forms with tiles are covered with polyethylene and kept for three or four days. If the weather is hot, then they are additionally watered with water in the morning and evening. Formwork should be removed when the tiles begin to move away from the walls.

The resulting paving slabs are laid in various combinations. The result is consistently impressive.

Do-it-yourself molds for paving slabs

Many people would like to independently make paving slabs with their own hands for a suburban area. However, many things scare them, and in particular, the high cost of forms. Consider how to make molds for paving slabs with your own hands.

. Plastic construction

Plastic is one of the most convenient materials for making molds. It lags well behind the edges of the tile and is quite durable. If you make such forms for paving slabs with your own hands, then they will be a relatively inexpensive option. Naturally, a homemade form will not create an ornament on the surface of the tile.

Production will require wooden form with carefully crafted details and plastic(can be secondary). The form is set as evenly as possible using a level.

When everything is prepared, pour the plastic. It settles down in about an hour. After that, the product is removed, the roughness is cleaned. The finished plastic mold is dried for another two or three days.

Plastic home-made molds for paving slabs are made from any plastic containers. Most importantly, they should not crack when compressed.

Another way is to cut unnecessary PVC pipes into rings of the desired height. They will make great shapes for round tiles.

. Wooden form (formwork)

The wooden mold is one of the simplest and most inexpensive and can be easily made. To create this form for paving slabs, several pieces are taken with your own hands. wooden bars. The desired figure is formed from them, its corners are verified with a special tool. Temporarily the connection is made with adhesive tape.

When everything is ready, the bars are connected screws. For quadrangular formwork, eight screws are sufficient for secure fastening.

finished frame sanding. To prolong its service life and make it easier to remove tiles, the surface can be coated with varnish.

It is convenient to disassemble the wooden frame to remove the tile. This will avoid damage and cracks.

. iron mold

The iron version of the form is one of the most durable and relatively easy to manufacture. You can create such home-made forms for paving slabs from remnants of reinforcement or other similar materials. The slats are selected, which are cut into the required number of pieces of a certain size. Next, the corners are verified and all parts are welded together. Handles are welded for ease of use.

. Polyurethane mold

Polyurethane is one of the varieties of polymer masses. Forms from it are best suited for the production of paving slabs, as they are distinguished by a combination of strength and flexibility.

When creating such a form for paving slabs with your own hands, be sure to take into account security measures. You have to work with gloves. If the processes take place indoors, then good ventilation is required. The container with polyurethane must be tightly closed. Immediately before pouring the polymer, a rubberized apron is required in addition to gloves.

To create a polyurethane mold, first prepare matrix. This is a product that should look like a future tile. First, a master model is prepared, i.e. sample made from any material. Starting with clay and ending with plasticine. You can take as a basis a ready-made tile.

The sample is washed and dried, and then applied to it adhesive compounds. It is better to take wax-based options. With this composition, it is necessary to treat all surfaces with which the polyurethane will come into contact during pouring. The adhesive composition dries for about twenty minutes.

make formwork in which the sample will be placed. She should be three centimeters taller than him.

The polymer mixture is made in compliance with clear proportions. The prepolymer and hardener are heated to room temperature and then mixed in equal proportions. The finished composition should be homogeneous, without air bubbles.

The composition is applied to the surface of the stone with a brush, and only then it is completely poured. The matrix is ​​ready. The next step is to create the mold itself.

Further, the manufacture of a mold for paving slabs with their own hands is carried out in a day. The matrix is ​​placed on a flat surface and gradually poured two-component polyurethane, lifting one of the edges of the matrix. The mixture will spread on its own. Ready-made forms are taken out after a day and left to dry for another two days.

. Silicone molds

The silicone version is highly flexible. This is convenient for removing tiles, but if the mold is not positioned correctly, the product may be skewed.

They make such a form for paving slabs with their own hands from three-component silicone mixture. You will need a base, catalyst and hardener. They are mixed in specific proportions.

A container is prepared in which the form will be created, it is degreased. At the bottom, you can lay out a pattern with sculptural plasticine. The entire surface of the mold is smeared with a thin layer of vegetable oil. After that, the silicone mass is poured in a thin stream, trying to avoid air bubbles. The form is completely ready for use in a day.

Making things with your own hands takes a lot of time. However, you get two indisputable advantages: the results of labor become unique and save money. Paving slabs in this case are no exception. Basically, home-made tiles are used for paths in personal plots, cottages. The process of laying a large area of ​​the entrance to the gate is even longer, and only silent passers-by will evaluate the work.

For work you will need:

1. Trowel, spatula, level;
2. Forms for solution;
3. Drill with mixing nozzle or concrete mixer;
4. Place for drying tiles;
5. Cement, sand, water, dyes.

Before starting work, you need to decide on its volume. Based on this, we select a container for mixing. Perhaps it will be a neighbor's or rented concrete mixer, or everything can be done with a plastic basin and a bucket. You also need to find out which form will be optimal for your finished product: ready-made forms are sold in building supermarkets and are inexpensive. If you bother at all, then the form can be made from wooden bars and slats. Usually it is up to 7 centimeters high. The quirkiness of forms is always left to the discretion of the designer-builder. However, there are two cornerstones here too: a large shape is difficult to work with due to weight and lack of versatility, laying a small tile will take even more time. When the forms are ready, you can start mixing the solution. As in other building moments, the finished product and its characteristics are directly dependent on the components. For durability, it's best to use 500 grade cement. 300 grade cement can get you in trouble for a relatively short tile life, though the cost speaks in favor of this cement. Sand must be sifted from excess debris. It is also better to pour clean water into the solution. You can use reinforcing elements - rods, wire, mesh. To give the tile even more originality, you can take an inorganic dye that will not fade in direct sunlight. For the purity of the product and a brighter color, gray cement is recommended to be replaced with white. Again, its price is slightly higher. Now the ingredients are ready. They need to be mixed in the following proportion: 3 parts of sand and one part of cement. We pour water in parts, completely mixing the solution. By consistency, it should be like dough, be plastic. Forms are filled with mortar completely at once or in two parts when using reinforcement. With a wide spatula, we cut off the excess solution from the top of the mold, periodically tapping it for better shrinkage of the solution in the volume of the mold. A vibrating table will be a good help for creating paving slabs. The solution with which you fill the molds under the action of vibration will be evenly distributed throughout the volume, displacing air formations. This tile will last longer.

The next important point is the drying of the tiles. The slower it occurs, the less likely it is that cracks will occur in the tile itself. Therefore, after pouring the mold, it is better to cover it with plastic wrap or place it under a canopy. If the ambient temperature is high, then the forms should be periodically moistened with water. You can remove the form after 5 days, the tile itself will dry for another three weeks to become as strong and durable as possible.

The tile can be considered finished. Now you can start developing a place for laying. Here, too, you need to be careful to avoid stagnation of water and subsidence of the level. In this case, hand-made tiles will last for many years and will be passed on to the next generations.

A wide range of available building materials and the availability of high-quality tools make it possible to produce various blanks used in finishing work at home. Artificial stone of our own production and garden paths are no longer a curiosity.

Paving slabs are no exception. But before starting work, it should be noted that it will take much more time to lay the site or path due to the technological production process.

Watch a video on how to make paving slabs with your own hands

The advantages of making paving slabs with your own hands

Material can be prepared as much as needed;

Saving the budget for the improvement of the site;

The ability to choose a design and color that blends harmoniously with the exterior of the site;

The result is a high-quality exclusive product;

Long operating period.

And, in addition, everyone will be able to show hidden talents and skills, reveal their creative abilities, bringing their own zest to the workflow.

What is required for work

To begin with, it is recommended to outline the boundaries of the site on which paving slabs will be laid. This is necessary to perform calculations of consumables and determine the volume of production. After drawing up the estimate, proceed to the purchase of materials. To mix the solution you will need:

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Cement grades M-400 or M-500;

Fine sand cleared of debris;

Crushed stone of fine fraction;

plasticizers;

Pigments;

Some technologies do not include plasticizers in the working mixture. Without these components, the finished tile will not be able to withstand the effects of a humid environment and may crumble after several seasons. Therefore, you should not save on a reinforcing and water-repellent substance.

In addition to consumables, you will need tools:

Construction mixer;

Rubber mallet;

mixing container.

In the process of pouring the mixture into the mold, it will be necessary to compact it to prevent the formation of air cushions. The easiest way is to use a mallet (rubber mallet), which needs to be tapped along the edges of the mold. The created vibration contributes to the release of air from the solution. If the volumes of workpieces are large, then you can not do without a vibrating table. You can rent it or make your own. You can also use a perforator.

As forms, special containers designed for the production of tiles or kitchen vessels of various configurations can be used. Alternatively, make molds out of wood or concrete. You should not use intricate sketches for blanks, because it will be difficult to lay such a tile.

Solution preparation

The kneading is carried out immediately before pouring, so you first need to prepare the molds by treating their inner surface with grease from a can.

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Place cement and sand in the required ratio in a large container and mix thoroughly. After that, add portions of clean water, constantly stirring the mass. Fine crushed stone is added while the mixer or concrete mixer is running, after which a plasticizer is added to the solution.

Staining is carried out in several ways:

Adding pigment to the finished solution;

Applying color to the inside of the matrix;

Coating the surface of the finished tile.

Each of the options requires strict adherence to technology, then the pigment will give the product a presentable look.

Filling and drying

You need to fill the matrices with the finished mixture with a trowel, doing this in portions with intermediate tapping of the walls with a mallet. You can also press the solution with the flat surface of the tool.

The next step is the expulsion of air from the building mixture. To do this, the filled molds are installed on a vibrating table. If during the compaction process voids form in the corners or along the edges, they should be filled with a mixture. When air circles cease to appear on the surface of the cement composition, the molds are removed to dry.

After 2-3 days after pouring, the cement will set, so it can be removed from the matrix. Do this carefully so as not to damage the tile. The blanks laid on the drying racks will reach strength in a week, and finally take the hardness corresponding to the technical characteristics only after a month.

How to make paving slabs with your own hands: tips / recommendations

To lubricate molds, in addition to a special composition, you can use sunflower or motor waste oil, soap solution. It is better not to use the salt mixture, it leaves white marks on the tile.