In housing construction, the technology of building housing from wood and materials created on its basis has been widely used. Frame houses have proven themselves excellently in the difficult climatic conditions of such northern countries as Canada, Finland and Norway. Their main advantages are relatively low price and short construction time.

Such houses, subject to the use of high-quality materials and adherence to technology, will retain heat well. In this case, special attention should be paid to the lower part of the structure, because the lion's share of losses occurs here. Proper insulation of the floor of the first floor of a frame house will minimize them. This approach will save resources and on heating housing.

Arrangement of the floor of the first floor of a frame house

The basis for a structure of this kind can be a strip, columnar or pile-grillage foundation. Floors in frame or frame-panel houses are arranged with the use of logs, rough and finish flooring. As a rule, these structures are made of solid or composite lumber, QSB moisture-resistant plywood sheets or processed board. The floors are made multi-layered with the laying of insulation.

Logs are installed at intervals, the size of which is determined by the project and the relevant SNiPs. Insulation of a wooden floor is carried out by laying materials with a low heat transfer coefficient in voids. Free space is formed by lags, lower and upper decks. The device of a multilayer floor is in many respects identical to the device of a continuous floor.

For greater effect, the insulation is used in combination with vapor barriers. Polymeric film or woven materials can reliably eliminate drafts through leaks and joints, as well as moisture penetration. Thus, the floor is a multi-layered sandwich of the bottom flooring, a vapor barrier, insulation, another layer of waterproofing and a finishing flooring.

Overview of building materials - heaters

A wide range of thermal insulation of various types is presented in retail. High-quality materials for floor insulation are produced by both domestic and foreign companies. They may vary slightly in their physicochemical and price characteristics. Imported materials, as a rule, are more expensive than domestic ones.

The issue of choosing a particular type is decided based on the financial capabilities of the owner. All thermal insulation building materials can be divided into three groups:

loose: expanded clay, slag and the like;

fibrous: mineral or basalt wool and others;

foam plastics: expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam and others.

Each of the presented groups has its own advantages and features in the application. So, bulk materials such as expanded clay are widely used, primarily due to their low cost. However, they are unsuitable for insulating vertical enclosing structures - walls.

The use of polystyrene for warming a country house is fully justified. This material has a low specific gravity and low thermal conductivity. The minimum thickness of foam for floor insulation in a frame house should be at least 100 mm. To achieve this, either solid sheets or type-setting are used. It is important to take effective measures to protect this material from biological pests.

Guidelines for the implementation of thermal insulation work

Insulation of buildings and structures is carried out in the process of their construction. In the project and the schedule of construction works, these activities, as a rule, are allocated in a separate section. Control over the actions of employees is carried out by foremen or other employees of the engineering and technical services of the company. Construction customers, as interested parties, have the right to verify the completeness of the execution of technological operations.

When erecting a frame structure on your own, you should pay close attention to thermal insulation work. do-it-yourself is not particularly difficult, even with the complete absence of any experience. It is enough to carefully read the proposed instructions and recommendations of specialists.

The device of building structures for insulation

The basis of the supporting structure of the floor are logs, which are solid or composite wooden beams. They have a rigid connection with the lower strapping belt, which serves as a support for them. The cross section of the joist must be sufficient to avoid sagging under its own weight and deflection as a result of static and dynamic loads.

The floor covering device will require the materials listed in the list:

wooden beams of constant rectangular section or composite in the form of an I-beam;

a bar measuring 40 × 40 mm;

edged board 25 mm thick;

OSB plywood with a thickness of 12 to 18 mm;

film membrane.

Bars are attached to the laid and fixed logs with nails or self-tapping screws in the lower part. A solid flooring from the board is laid on the formed shelves and fixed. A vapor-hydrobarrier is laid in the formed recesses and along the logs, which is fixed with furniture brackets using a stapler. As a result of preparatory operations, we get a structure with open cavities lined with a membrane.

Insulation laying

Further actions of the builders will consist in filling the formed space with heat-insulating materials. When carrying out these operations using Ecowool, it is necessary to use individual protective equipment: gloves, goggles, a respirator or gauze bandages. This will avoid the irritation reaction from direct contact with the material and the ingress of its particles into the eyes and respiratory organs.

Warming of the wooden floor of the first floor can be carried out both in separate mats and in rolls. In the first case, individual sheets are inserted into the openings, and in the second, the material is simply rolled out in the recess. If several layers are provided, then it is necessary to lay the mats in such a way that the joints of the lower layer fall in the middle of the sheet of the next layer. This will eliminate the formation of through gaps.

A vapor barrier membrane is laid on top of the insulation. It is not recommended to step on the laid heat-insulating materials and film in order to avoid their damage. All movements are exclusively on logs or boards laid on them. The membrane is fixed with the help of all that stapler, and now you can proceed to the installation of the final flooring.

High-quality insulation of the floor of the first floor of a frame house in compliance with all technological requirements will ensure a comfortable thermal regime in the premises. As long-term experience of operating such buildings in conditions of extremely low temperatures shows, it is possible to maintain an acceptable temperature in the premises. All thermal insulation work can be performed without the involvement of professional builders.

Step-by-step video instructions for arranging and insulating the floor of the first floor of a private house:

Even if you are a person who is far from the construction industry, then you should be aware that it is extremely uncomfortable to live without high-quality flooring. This applies to houses made of different materials. The frame building is no exception. If you properly equip the floor structure, then with its help it will be possible to keep the heat inside the premises, as well as create a reliable support that will extend the life of the building for several decades.

In order to give the building strength, it is necessary to create which will act as the basis for the future topcoat.

Design features of the subfloor

If you will be installing the floor in a frame house, then at the first stage it is worth creating a rough coating, which should be as even, flat and reliable as possible. Ultimately, it will be possible to lay, for example, a laminate on such a coating. The main objective of this design will be a uniform distribution of the load on the surface. So you can eliminate the occurrence of bends and deformations of the finish coating. The device of the floor in a frame house can be carried out using several technologies, but the most popular and relevant today are logs, dry screed on the ground or wet screed on the soil surface.

Stages of erecting a subfloor on logs

If you decide to use a technique that involves the use of a lag, then it will be possible to carry out the work in several stages. These elements are raw bars that are located on the floor or ground. Their alignment should be carried out on the side where the final coating will be covered. To do this, you can use an ordinary ax. Wood is protected from aggressive factors and insects, for which the surface of the elements is treated with an antiseptic composition.

If you will be laying logs along the ceiling, then in the upper crown of the walls it is necessary to cut grooves where planed logs will be laid. Among other things, the logs are installed on brick supports, which strengthen the system and extend the life of the structure. When the rough coating is installed on the base, the soil is first covered with a 2 cm layer of crushed stone, which must be compacted. Logs are installed on support poles, which are mounted on the foundation, and their protection from moisture will extend the life of the structure.

For reference

The device of the floor in a frame house can also be made of plywood, which is installed on logs. This option turns out to be budgetary and is distinguished by wear resistance and practicality. For reliable fastening of the elements around the perimeter, you need to lay small bars, from which a wooden crate should be made. Plywood sheets are fixed with special screws or nails, the distance between which should be approximately 150 mm.

After completion of these works, you can begin to lay thermal insulation materials like mineral wool or a substrate under a laminate.

Creation of a rough coating based on a wet screed

If you will be installing the floor in a frame house, then you can apply the wet screed technology on the ground. This technique is not always preferred because the floor surface will need to be left to dry completely, which will take several weeks. The deadline will depend on climatic conditions. Today, two methods of wet screed are known, one of which involves the use of cement mortar, while the other involves the use of self-leveling floor. The most common way to create such a base is the use of cement brand M-250.

As a result, it is possible to obtain a smooth surface due to the inclusion of polymer ingredients in the composition. Among other things, they give the coating increased resistance to mechanical stress. The thickness of this system can vary from 30 to 100 mm. The screed should be additionally reinforced with metal elements.

Preparatory work

The device of the subfloor in the frame house can be carried out according to the method of laying a wet screed. At the preparatory stage in this case, the base should be cleaned, removing debris, foreign objects and dirt.

At the next stage, waterproofing from a polyethylene film is laid, and a tape must be installed around the perimeter, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the mixture. If the surface has differences ranging from 2 to 4 mm, then beacons should be installed that guarantee a perfectly flat surface after pouring.

Work methodology

When the floor of a frame house is being installed on a strip foundation, then at the next stage it is necessary to dilute the mixture and apply it, leveling it with a special bar. It is necessary to get rid of the air bubbles that have appeared with a knitting needle, then the rough screed is left to dry for about a month. Once the floor has gained strength, it can be used as a rough base for laying any finish, including ceramic tile, linoleum, parquet or laminate.

It is better to equip a self-leveling floor, which will become a rough base, when leveling the surface with a slope of up to 30 mm is required. However, it is strictly forbidden to apply such a mixture to the ground, since the composition requires a solid base, such as a concrete screed.

The material needs to be protected from moisture, so it is necessary to lay a waterproofing film. Its thickness can vary from 1 to 2 mm. The technology for laying such a solution is similar to the method described above, however, self-leveling floors dry faster, and further work can be carried out after 10 days.

Floor in a frame house on screw piles

The device of the floor of a frame house on screw piles will involve the use of a bar, channel or I-beam. Work can be carried out immediately after the construction of the pile foundation. For strapping, you can use wooden beams to which logs are attached. The span of the beams should not exceed a level of three meters. If the span is greater than this value, then pile supports should be additionally used. For beams, it is recommended to use 100 mm; coniferous wood is best used as a material.

Before installing the strapping, it is necessary to waterproof the base with roofing felt, plastic film or penofol. When the floor is being installed in a frame house on piles, after installing the beams, you can proceed to laying the log. The distance between these elements should be 500 mm. For the first floor, logs on piles are used, the cross section of which should be 250 mm. Whereas for the second floor, elements of 70x200 mm are suitable. If the spans are relatively small, which is especially true for toilets and bathrooms, then the cross section of the beams can be reduced to 50x150 mm.

In order to increase the strength of the structure, it can be reduced to 40 cm. Before proceeding with laying the log, it is necessary to make markings that will determine the distance between the elements. At the next stage, in the strapping beam, it is necessary to make recesses along the width of the beams. As soon as the logs are laid in the strapping grooves, they can be fixed with dowels, self-tapping screws, nails or screws.

When the floor is being installed in a frame house, it is recommended to consider the photo in advance. Perhaps this will allow you to understand by what method to carry out the work. Speaking of the above, it can be noted that square-section boards with a side of 30 mm are fixed to the lags from below. In order to increase the strength of the floor structure, the bars are connected by transverse jumpers, the distance between which is 150 cm. However, this condition is not mandatory.

Warm floor on the stove

If you have completed the construction of a frame house, the basis of which is a slab, then it's time to start installing a warm floor. The base must be clean and dry, and the maximum difference in height must not exceed 0.5 cm. Otherwise, the irregularities must be leveled. For this, sometimes even a layer of low-quality concrete is used.

When the floor is being installed in a frame house on a slab, the next step is to lay the waterproofing so that it also acts as a vapor barrier. To do this, you can use plastic wrap. The overlap of the canvases should be approximately 12 cm, and the seams are connected with adhesive tape. It is important to lay a thick layer of thermal insulation, which will eliminate heat loss. Penofol is recognized as the most practical material. in a frame house, the next step involves laying a pipeline, which is then poured with the same

The floor and ceiling in a frame house are horizontal surfaces that limit and enclose its internal volume. They are mounted on floors that are part of the load-bearing frame of the house. And in this sense, the importance of overlaps can hardly be overestimated. In addition to the fact that they close the vertical walls on themselves, forming a single solid spatial structure, the ceilings provide the rigidity of the floor and ceiling, as well as thermal insulation and noise protection of the entire house.

Both the structure of the floors and the materials used for them depend on their place and purpose in the house. In a frame house, there are three types of floors: floor, ceiling (attic) and interfloor.

The task of the first is to provide the necessary strength and rigidity of the floor. Ceilings support only the ceiling finish and a layer of insulation, sometimes very impressive.

Interfloor overlap performs the functions of both floor and ceiling, being the carrier of the floor of the upper floor and the ceiling of the lower.

The most unpleasant load on the structure in question is vertical. Therefore, the basis of the overlap is calculated based on the need to minimize vertical deflections.

In a frame house, floors in the vast majority of cases are made of coniferous wood, such as pine, spruce or larch. The basis is the floor logs or ceiling beams. It is they who take on all the loads of the floor, then transferring them to the upper or lower trim, as well as to the internal walls or foundation.

Floor beams can be round timber processed into two or four edges, timber or boards installed on the edge with a thickness of at least 80 mm. It is acceptable to replace thick boards with paired thinner ones, for example, 50 mm thick. The main thing is to firmly and reliably “sew” them together. A more complex, but advantageous option in terms of rigidity / price is a device made of box-shaped boards or an I-beam.

The size of the load-bearing beams is determined depending on the span, load and allowable deflection. This value is for reference, and if necessary, the corresponding tables are easy to find on the Web. The typical design of frame houses allows you to fix the average values ​​of the loads, by which you can determine the cross section of the support beams.

So, the load on the floors consists of a constant component - their own mass, as well as variable loads that appear during the operation of the house. The own weight of one square meter of interfloor and floor ceilings of a frame house depends on their design, the insulation and sound insulator used, and usually amounts to 210-230 kg.

The self-weight of attic floors is higher, since more insulating materials are used here. It can be from 260 to 300 kg. However, variable loads in attic floors are less and, as a rule, do not exceed 100 kg per square meter, while for interfloor floors this figure is twice as high.

In order to calculate the total floor load, it is necessary to add the constant and variable components. Given the span length of the beams and their profile, according to the table we find the cross-sectional area. The distance between the beams is determined in a similar way, which usually ranges from 0.5 to 1 m.

Floor beams are installed on the strapping and fastened either with metal corners, or cut directly into the strapping beam (board). For interfloor and attic floors, there is a requirement: beams should only be installed above the vertical racks of the wall frame.

If in this case the step of the floor beams does not coincide with the calculated one, the latter must be reduced to a multiple of the step of the frame racks.

Flooring and lining

After installing and fixing the beams, a flooring (top) and filing (bottom) are arranged on them. Interfloor overlap
requires a lining that supports only its own weight, decorative ceiling elements, as well as a light weight of soundproofing material. Therefore, the requirements for bearing capacity are minimal. As such a filing in a frame house, almost any sheet material can be used, for example, ceiling plasterboard, which also significantly increases the fire resistance of the building.

The lining of the attic and floor floors must withstand a much greater weight of the insulation and other structural elements of the floor. Therefore, it is made from a grooved board with a thickness of 30 mm.

Another option is a rollover device. In the lower part of the floor beams from the sides, the so-called cranial bars are stuffed along their entire length. Usually, a rail with a section of 30x50 mm is used for this purpose. And they are already stacked with roll-over boards: boards or any sheet material that can withstand the weight of the insulator, for example, plywood. In this case, the entire load from the weight of the internal elements of the floor falls on the reel. And the filing only needs to support the weight of the ceiling trim.

In a frame house, two types of flooring are distinguished: running and draft. Walking flooring is used in the attic to enable movement on it. In addition, the flooring is a fine plank floor. Both types are arranged by fastening the boards either directly to the beams (floor logs) or through elastic pads.

But they differ in the quality of laying: the boards of the running floor are rallied, while the boards of the subfloor are nailed with a gap necessary for the movement of air from the back of the finished floor. In attics that are not planned to be used, you can do without the top flooring. Instead, so-called passage boards are laid along the route of the emergency passage.

"Stuffing" overlap

Overlappings of any type have a similar structure. Glassine, roofing felt or just a plastic film are laid on the reel or directly on the filing. From above fall asleep or lay insulating material. Naturally, bulk heaters fall asleep, such as expanded clay, furnace slag, perlite, etc. Sheet or roll heaters are laid: foam plastic, glass wool, etc.

It should be noted that only floor and attic floors need to be insulated, and interior floors are only soundproofed with acoustic mineral wool. The required amount of insulation is determined according to the tables, depending on its type and average winter air temperature.

Useful advice: after filling the insulation into the attic floor, it is recommended to spill it on top with sand-cement or lime mortar. This event will significantly slow down the destruction of the insulation and extend its service life.

Ensuring optimal operating conditions

Given the importance of floors to ensure the normal functioning of the frame house, it is necessary to create the appropriate conditions for them to maintain strength characteristics throughout the life of the house. And the most important of the external factors that have a negative impact on wooden floor structures is moisture.

Any overlap to a greater or lesser extent prevents the free movement of air containing water vapor. And under certain conditions (temperature difference, air humidity), moisture condenses on the wooden parts of the ceiling. In the absence of sufficient air movement, the wood remains wet for a long time, which is fraught with the following consequences.

First, the tree absorbs moisture and swells, changing its linear dimensions. And this, in turn, creates increased stresses in the structure. Several cycles of "swelling - drying" can lead to loss of strength of the joints of floor parts, which will make their operation difficult, if not impossible.

Secondly, wet pulp is a very good environment for mold growth, which can destroy floor beams in 2-3 years. The problem of humidity is acute for floor slabs, to a much lesser extent for attic floors and is generally not relevant for interior floors.

Therefore, to ensure normal air circulation in the basement, it is recommended to equip ventilation ducts or wells.

Particular attention should be paid to wooden floors in rooms with high humidity (bathroom, toilet, kitchen, etc.). Here it is advisable to supplement the floors with a waterproofing layer. But it is better to refuse the bottom filing, limiting yourself to one reel. On the one hand, this will improve air exchange, on the other hand, it will allow you to control the condition of the floor details.

As you can see, it is not so difficult to arrange an overlap in a frame house. The main thing is to do everything right. And then you will not remember about its existence while you live in the house.

You can often hear the opinion that frame houses are one of the simplest, most rational and inexpensive types of building structures. Based on this idea, many developers choose frame technologies for construction, thinking about savings and even about the possibility of building a house on their own. Unfortunately, the idea of ​​the simplicity and cheapness of frame technologies applies only to those buildings that do not comply with any building codes and rules, which are being built by guest workers and inexperienced do-it-yourselfers. However, the same can be said about the construction of log houses made of wood with your own hands.

Frame technologies really have many advantages, but only in those cases when the house is being built by experienced builders from industrially produced components for frame housing construction. An inexperienced or illiterate builder, working with frame technology, can make many more mistakes than when building a house from solid wood or stone materials. Where, when building a house from massive wall materials, only a few technological operations are required, frame technologies will require a much larger number of technological “passes”. With more operations, the risk of errors, non-compliance with technologies and improper use of materials increases significantly. Therefore, frame houses built without a project and involving qualified specialists “at random” or on trust in guest workers may be short-lived, soon require major repairs due to unsatisfactory consumer qualities (freezing, wetting of insulation, high heating costs, rotting of structural elements , destruction of both individual elements and the entire structure as a whole). Unfortunately, in Russia the list of regulatory construction documentation for the design and construction of frame houses is significantly limited. The current 2002 code of practice is SP 31-105-2002, Design and Construction of Energy Efficient Timber-Frame Single-Family Residential Buildings, based on Canada's outdated 1998 National Housing Code.

In this article, we will provide a brief overview of the main mistakes and violations of the technology of frame housing construction.

Construction without a project.

This is a universal "general" mistake when choosing any construction technology. However, it is in the frame technology that the price of errors can be especially high and lead to cost overruns instead of saving them both due to the use of an excess amount of material (a frame made of large cross-section timber) and the need for repairs due to insufficient sections of beams, a rare step of their installation. destruction of structural elements due to unaccounted for loads, incorrectly chosen methods of connection in nodes and fastening materials, biological destruction of wood due to a violation of steam and moisture removal.

Construction from a tree of "natural humidity".

Practically nowhere in civilized countries do they build houses from raw wood, just as before in Russia they never built houses from freshly cut tree trunks. SP 31-105-2002 clause 4.3.1 states: “The supporting structures (frame elements) of the houses of this system are made from sawn softwood, dried and protected from moisture during storage.” Raw wood is only a semi-finished product for the production of building materials. In Russia, sellers and suppliers delicately refer to raw lumber as “natural moisture” wood. Recall that a freshly cut tree has a moisture content of 50-100%. If the tree was rafted on water, then the humidity is 100% or more (the amount of water exceeds the amount of dry matter). "Natural moisture" usually means that the wood has dried out a little during processing and transportation, and contains between 30 and 80% moisture. When drying in the open air, the amount of moisture decreases to 15-20%. The normal equilibrium moisture content of industrially dried wood in contact with the atmosphere will be 11-12%. When drying a wet tree, the length of sawn timber is reduced by 3-7%, and the volume of wood by 11-17%. The use of wood of "natural moisture" for the construction of frame houses leads to uncontrolled shrinkage of the tree, which changes the linear dimensions of the structural elements, can lead to deformations, cracking and rupture of wood with the destruction of fasteners. When the wooden frame shrinks, numerous cracks and gaps open, significantly increasing the thermal conductivity of the walls of the frame house, tearing insulating materials that prevent the penetration of moisture. When wood shrinks, its density increases, which leads to better vibration and sound transmission.

Construction from lumber without preliminary antiseptic treatment.

Even in the most correctly designed frame house, a certain amount of condensate will inevitably fall out on the sections of the media, which are much more in frame houses than in buildings made of massive materials. A moistened tree containing polysaccharides in its structure is an excellent nutrient medium for various forms of microflora and microfauna, whose representatives are able to destroy the tree structure in a short period of time. SP 31-105-2002 (clause 4.3.2) states that all wooden elements located closer than 25 cm from ground level and all wooden elements not made of dry wood are subject to antiseptic treatment.

Incorrect use of materials.

In the classic frame technology, the corner posts of the frame should not be made of timber or three boards knocked down closely - in this case, increased heat loss through "cold corners" is provided. The correct "warm corner" is assembled from three vertical posts located in mutually perpendicular planes.

For sheathing the frame, materials capable of bearing loads are used. For example, OSB should be structural and designed specifically for outdoor work.

Insulation of vertical frame walls is permissible only with rigid insulation boards. Backfill and roll insulation due to shrinkage and slipping over time can only be used on horizontal surfaces or in roofs with a slope of up to 1:5. When using economical versions of low density insulation boards, it is recommended to fix each row of boards with spacers between the boards to prevent slipping. This solution increases the cost of the structure, increases the thermal conductivity of the wall, so it is more profitable to use a high-quality, more expensive, higher-density insulation. The size of the openings between the racks of the frame should not exceed the transverse size of the insulation boards - 60 cm. It is even better if the size of the opening is reduced to 59 cm in order to exclude gaps between the racks and the insulation boards. You can not fill the walls with scraps of insulation - there will be many gaps.

Incorrect fastening of materials.

Black self-tapping screws can only be used for fastening sheet materials. The use of black self-tapping screws in a power frame, especially in a frame made of damp wood, can lead to rupture of these unreliable fasteners with low shear strength.

In all cases of assembling the power elements of the frame, galvanized nails, or chrome-plated or brass-plated self-tapping screws with a minimum diameter of 5 mm, are used. The use of perforated steel fasteners without ligation of wooden elements does not always guarantee the design strength of the frame.

Fasteners of beams and other elements of the load-bearing frame must not be fastened to OSB boards, especially with nails.
When nailing sheet elements or screwing them with self-tapping screws, it is unacceptable to sink the cap or head deeper than the plane of the surface of the material. From the point of view of structural strength, the penetration of the head or cap by half the thickness of the material is considered a missing fastener and must be duplicated by a properly installed self-tapping screw or nail.
The minimum distance from the edge of the sheathing material to the head or head of the fastener is 10 mm.

Since 2012, the International building code for residential buildings (International building code, paragraph 2308.12.8) requires to prevent shear during an earthquake, wind load, etc. to fix the frame of all newly erected frame buildings to the foundation with anchor bolts through pressure plates measuring at least 7.6 by 7.6 mm with a steel plate thickness of at least 5.8 mm. The minimum diameter of bolts or anchors is 12 mm.

Construction of frame houses using "innovative" technologies.

The most common frame construction technology in the world provides for the sequential assembly of "platforms" - ceilings with floors, followed by the assembly of walls on them and their installation in a vertical position. In this case, it is convenient for builders to move along a solid surface, it is convenient to work with materials, any deviations from the design position can be eliminated before the construction of walls begins, and the ceilings themselves rest securely on the underlying structures. For some reason, domestic builders are trying to invent their own options for building a frame house with assembling walls "in place", mixing the technology of building a frame house with half-timbered technology or "pillars and beams" with the device of floors last, which is fraught with the need for insertion or "suspension" floor beams, the need to move on temporary decking, with a high probability of injury when falling from a height.

Errors in working with floor beams of a frame house.

Most mistakes are made with the fastening of beams. It is best to rest the beams on the upper trim of the load-bearing walls, on the girders. It is forbidden to reduce the cross section of the beam by washing down the cutout for joining with the strapping. If it is necessary to join a floor beam with a strapping beam or a beam run, it must be fastened through a backing support bar with nail penetration, or with the help of steel beam supports. The steel support of the beam must have a height equal to the height of the beam and be fastened with nails through all mounting holes. Fastening beams with undersized supports, not punching all mounting holes, fastening with black screws, fastening only on nails without a support bar are errors.

The most common step of floor beams in the world practice of frame housing construction is from 30 to 40 cm. This step of the beams makes it possible to obtain strong floors that do not bend under shock loading. Overlapping with a step of more than 60 cm is generally not recommended. The minimum thickness of sheet materials for flooring on floor beams is 16 mm for a beam spacing of 40 cm.

Often, bending beams are rallied flat from the boards, and not installed on the edge.

The load-bearing capacity of floors is increased if the covering sheet material of subfloors is additionally glued to the floor beams.
The bearing capacity of frame floors can be increased by rigid cross-beam bracing. Such connections are installed in increments of 120 cm and can serve as a support for internal non-load-bearing partitions (through the subfloor). Also, the cross struts serve as an obstacle to the spread of flame in case of fire.

How to drill holes in floor beams correctly:

I-beams:

Composite H-beams can only be cut or drilled in specific locations per manufacturer's specification. The upper and lower elements of the I-beams should not be violated. No more than 3 holes are allowed per beam. One hole up to 40 mm in diameter can be drilled in any part of the I-beam, with the exception of the bearing parts. Glued I-beams Wood-OSB-Wood have the designation "Top". When self-manufacturing beams based on OSB, the direction of the force axis of the material should be taken into account.

Sawn timber floor beams:

Mistakes in working with frame house cladding.

According to foreign building codes and the recommendations of the American Engineering Wood Association (APA), sheathing the frame with OSB boards can be done both vertically and horizontally. However, if the OSB board is sewn along the frame studs, then the force axis (indicated on the OSB panel by arrows and Strength axis) will be parallel to the studs. Such an arrangement of plates is useful only to strengthen the weak racks of the frame, working in compression without significant lateral and tangential loads (which is almost unrealistic in real operating conditions). If the OSB boards are sewn perpendicular to the posts, they reinforce the frame of the building to absorb the tangential and lateral loads that occur when exposed to wind, base movements due to soil movement. Particularly relevant is the horizontal sheathing with OSB panels in frames with no slopes, to give the required structural rigidity. If the OSB sheets are laid across the uprights, then the force axis will be perpendicular to them, and the OSB sheets will withstand a large compressive and tensile load. So, for example, in the domestic joint venture 31-105-2002. "Design and construction of energy-efficient timber-framed single-family residential buildings" provides (table 10-4) the recommended minimum plywood thickness parameters for framing cladding: if the plywood fibers are parallel to the frame studs at a 60 cm step, then the minimum plywood thickness is 11 mm. If the plywood fibers are perpendicular to the posts, then thinner sheets with a thickness of 8 mm can be used. Therefore, it is preferable to sew OSB sheets with the long side not along, but across the racks or rafters. For exterior cladding of one-story frame houses, OSB 9 mm thick can be used. But when building two-story houses and any houses in areas of strong winds, the minimum thickness of OSB for exterior cladding is 12 mm. If the frame house is sheathed with soft fiber boards of the Isoplat type, then the frame structure must have jibs to ensure lateral rigidity of the structure.

Between all sheet materials of the sheathing, gaps for thermal expansion of 2-3 mm should be left. If this is not done, then the sheets will “swell” during expansion.
Docking of sheathing sheets is carried out only on racks and crossbars. The sheets are sewn "in a row" in order to ensure greater strength of the load-bearing frame structure with chain ligation. The outer skin must connect the wall frame with the bottom and top trim.

« Pirogi, floors, walls and roofs of a frame house.

The main mistake in the design of frame pies of floors, walls and roofs is the possibility of wetting the insulation from moisture penetration. The general rule for building walls in heated rooms is that the vapor permeability of materials should increase from the inside out. Even in the floor, where the opposite is often done: the vapor barrier is laid on the side of the ground, and the vapor-permeable membrane is laid on the side of the room.
In any insulated cake of a frame house, there must be a continuous layer of vapor barrier from the inside. "Solid layer" really means that the vapor barrier must not have any defects: the sheets must be glued with an overlap along the entire contour to be protected, without exception. For example, at the frame assembly stage, almost all builders forget to lay a vapor barrier under the junction of internal partitions to external walls in accordance with typical junction schemes of paragraph 7.2.12 of SP 31-105-2002.

In addition, all gaps between the sheet materials of the sheathing in wet rooms and on the roof must be glued with waterproofing materials to prevent moisture from getting inside the insulated "pies".
In addition to preventing moisture from entering the insulated cake, moisture should also be removed: outside, the frame wall should either be sheathed with OSB boards, which are a “smart” vapor-permeable material that can increase vapor permeability when the environment is moistened, or protected by a semi-permeable membrane that ensures moisture removal from the insulation. Cheap single-layer membranes have unsatisfactory vapor permeability and require an air gap between the insulation and the membrane. Also, cheap single-layer membranes do not protect well from the penetration of moisture from the outside. It is preferable to use expensive superdiffusion membranes, which have really good vapor permeability and can be mounted directly on the insulation.

Frame house ventilation.

Figuratively speaking, the internal space of a properly built frame house is identical to the internal space of a thermos: heat loss through the walls is very small, and moisture transfer through the walls is most often practically absent (but can be maintained during use). Accordingly, it should be taken out. Without thought it becomes impossible. In a frame house, ventilation valves must be installed in each room, or windows must have a micro-ventilation mode or built-in slotted ventilation valves. Exhaust ventilation must be installed in the kitchen and bathroom. Abroad, frame houses for permanent residence are practically not built without supply and exhaust ventilation with a recovery system.

At the end of the article, we give illustrations of the widespread "folk" design of a frame house, in which, upon closer examination, there is not a single correctly executed element.

The typical mistakes that we have described in the article are easily preventable. Before you start building your first frame house or hire builders, study in detail, albeit slightly outdated, but the only set of rules for frame housing construction SP 31-105-2002 available in Russian. Paying attention to all the details and subtleties of the creation of the power frame of the building and ensuring the durability of its operation, you can avoid costly mistakes when building or ordering your frame house.

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To build your house strong and reliable, you need to do a fairly large amount of work, including the design of the upper harness.

Such a simple design has a number of its own features and nuances in its device and installation process. Before proceeding with the installation, it is worth understanding the essence of all processes.

and the upper trim of the frame house give it strength and reliability. There are differences in the design, but as for the top trim, it serves to create the integrity of the building from the frame. In addition to the fact that the top type of strapping combines internal and external, it transfers the load and distributes it evenly in the direction from the top of the building to the bottom.

Important: the construction of the upper wall trim is necessary in a frame house, regardless of what the attic space will be like and whether it will be at all.

Types of floors

As for the types of floors, they are divided depending on how the construction of the attic is planned.

Namely, such a room for storing things will be intended, it will be residential or non-residential:

1. Under a residential attic (heated). Such an overlap is installed in the case of a residential attic or attic, as well as with a full-fledged second floor. The design of such an overlap does not require the use of special layers of waterproofing materials, but a vapor barrier is required.
2. Under an unheated attic. Such a frame floor is arranged in the case of non-residential under-roof space. This type is characterized by the presence of a large number of insulating materials, their specific location and a reinforced layer of thermal insulation.

Important: the ceiling of the second floor in a frame house must have enhanced strength and the ability to withstand a high level of loads.

Device

"Pie"

If we consider the layer-by-layer device for overlapping a frame house, we can see a kind of “pie”. And also do not forget that the interfloor ceiling in a frame house is a ceiling for one room, and a floor for another. This moment determines the availability of certain materials depending on the individual situation.

The pie of the interfloor overlapping in the frame house consists in the sequence from the lower floor (its ceiling) to the second floor (finishing floor) from the following layers:

• finishing materials of the ceiling of the first floor;
• drywall sheets;
• lathing layer;
• vapor barrier material;
• a layer of waterproofing (only for an unheated attic or in the case of a residential second floor - under wet rooms, for example, in a bathroom on the second floor);
• soundproofing material of cork type (only for residential second floor);
• moisture resistant plywood (fitted in two layers);
• finish coating.

Regardless of the size of the frame house, the second floor ceiling is divided into the following types:

• beam. It consists of logs on which a subfloor is equipped with sheets of fiberboard, chipboard or plywood. The step of the beams in this case is quite wide;
• beam-ribbed.

Peculiarities

If we consider the floor device depending on its type, that is, whether the attic will be residential or not, then the features of the device for a house with a residential heated attic are as follows:

1. For an overlap made of logs, a rubber or cork underlay is laid between the logs and the finished floor to provide sound insulation. If laying is carried out in two layers, then between them it is also necessary to lay soundproofing material.

2. All materials for the future construction are selected depending on the future load on the floor and individual wishes, for example, providing enhanced sound insulation.

The attic floor in a frame house in the case of an unheated second floor is arranged as follows:

1. Laying waterproofing is carried out from above. It will protect the room from moisture coming from the roof. This is a prerequisite for the construction equipment, which cannot be neglected.

3. The beams in the structure are pre-impregnated with special preparations that protect the wood from decay processes, the formation of fungal microorganisms, etc.

Safety measures during work

Any construction process involves an increased risk of injury..

In addition to the fact that all manipulations are performed manually, which is very unsafe, the construction of the harness involves working at height.

In order to protect yourself from injury as much as possible, you should adhere to the following rules:

1. Adhere to the maximum orderliness of things and tools in the construction process.
2. If the work takes place at a height exceeding 1.2 m, then scaffolding must be used.
3. Frame elements, beams, boards or logs are folded at a safe distance, while the height of the stacked elements should not exceed 1.5.
4. The stack of structural elements must be secured with some kind of tie to prevent unexpected spillage.
5. Electrical devices used in the construction process must be provided with grounding.
6. Cables to electrical devices must be protected from any kind of mechanical impact.
7. When carrying out manipulations to fix the elements and use electrical equipment, it is necessary to be on a solid support; safety cables and mounting belts are an additional safety measure.

Installation of the top trim

The strapping of the second floor of the frame house begins after it has been leveled with a special level.

1. You will need boards measuring 50 mm in thickness, which are laid on top of the frame walls.
2. Laying is carried out with an overlap with an adjacent wall and fixed with nails. Fastening is carried out in a checkerboard pattern, with a minimum number of nails equal to 5 pcs.
3. Next, the process of attaching the internal partitions to the external walls is carried out. This manipulation can be done in three ways.:
   • you can use the jumpers, which are built and fastened between the frame racks. Partitions are then attached to such jumpers. At the same time, the top board is overlapped, due to which the binding of the wall and the partition is obtained;
   • for the second option, additional racks are installed on the main frame wall. In the case of attaching a partition to an existing rack, construct another one and attach a partition to them. Further, the process of constructing the strapping is similar;
   • for the third option, you will need a bar, which requires a little more cost than in the previous options. Instead of a rack, a beam is installed to which the partition is attached. Further, the process of arranging the strapping is identical.

Floor construction

After the upper trim of the Scandinavian frame wall is ready, proceed to the construction of the ceiling between the floors.

There are some differences in this process depending on the planned premises of the second floor..

For unheated top floor type, the process is as follows:

1. Initially, a rough ceiling is being built. Start the process from the bottom for further convenience of equipment with insulation.
2. To the beams, which are located across, the boards are fastened with a thickness value of 3 cm.
3. After that, the boards are covered with a vapor barrier filmy material. Do it with an overlap equal to 10 cm.
4. After that, for this, the slabs are laid out and the mineral wool is rolled out. In thickness, such a layer should be at least 10 cm, and in width it is worth adhering to the same distance that exists between the beams.
5. After that, a layer of waterproofing material is laid on top.
6. The final stage is the installation of the floor of the upper floor and the ceiling of the first floor.

If the second floor of the house is heated, of a residential type, then the process is similar to that described, with the exception of the following features:

1. Instead of waterproofing, a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the beams with insulation. The insulation will eventually be between two layers of vapor protection.
2. The ceiling is equipped with soundproofing materials.
3. Finishing the floor of the second floor is carried out depending on individual preferences.

Important: in the process of attaching boards to beams, it is best to drive nails at an angle of 45 degrees, this method will protect against the appearance of cracks after the wood dries out.

It is very important not to forget to leave an opening for passage to the second floor.. To do this, cut out two beams with a cross section equal to the lags of the floor and cut between them. Such a process is carried out before the start of work on the construction of the floor.

Useful video

Visually familiarize yourself with the process of building the upper trim and overlapping between floors in the video below:

conclusions

The upper trim of a frame hozblok or living quarters, as well as the process of installing an interfloor overlap, have their own nuances and specifics, which you should know about in advance. Before starting work, you should carefully plan the whole process and decide what type the second floor will be in the house. In addition, it is very important during work to protect yourself from injuries and risks of falling from the height at which work is carried out.

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