If he does not dream of autonomous gas heating with hot water supply, then surely any householder seriously thought about it, both in a city apartment and in a private house. Only it today is able to reliably provide a comfortable temperature in the house cheaper than the central one. However, installing a gas boiler with your own hands is a complex, responsible matter that requires a permit. Actually, it only makes sense to take it on yourself only if you have sufficient funds to purchase a double-circuit boiler with a boiler and a complete set of automation, and your housing is suitable for installing a boiler according to specifications.

The second case when you need a gas boiler is if you are not rich, and there is no hot water in the house at all and is not expected. In this case, you need the simplest budgetary single-circuit flow-through boiler for hot water supply, which allows you to wash the dishes and take a shower. A gas boiler is more expensive than an electric boiler, but, given the cost of installing a gas meter, at current rates it pays off in a winter of a year and a half, depending on the place of residence. If, again, you can put it in your apartment, and you are not afraid of walking through the authorities.

Two big differences

The boilers mentioned above are the extremes of a huge variety of models of gas water heating devices. They are available for self-installation. Any other gas heating boiler for installation requires professional work. However, every cloud has a silver lining - specialized firms take upon themselves the preparation of the premises with the paperwork. But why can only the "tips of scissors" be installed by yourself?

Simple water heater

The simplest boiler is really very simple: a gas burner, a heat exchanger - that's all. It is enough to connect water, gas to it, bring the exhaust into the chimney - and you can use it. If the papers are already issued; otherwise, an inevitable large fine.

Home boiler room

A double-circuit boiler with a boiler and full automation is so “smart” that it is as easy to install as the simplest one. Automation is important not only for simplicity: a complete system with a double thermostat and a microprocessor monitors the temperature in the house and outside, according to a given program, reduces heating to a minimum according to the sanitary standard when no one is at home (for example, when everyone is at work). The gas consumption of such a boiler is 30-70% less than with manual or semi-automatic adjustment, and the more severe the weather, the more savings.

But such a home boiler room has a serious drawback: if you find yourself in a natural disaster area and the power supply is interrupted, the automation “stalls”, and the boiler goes into the minimum space heating mode. Therefore, such a boiler requires an additional expense for a guaranteed power supply. It is not difficult to provide it yourself, see below.

Where it is possible and where it is impossible to put a gas boiler

The rules for installing a gas boiler provide the following requirements for the installation of a HEATING boiler, regardless of whether it also provides domestic hot water or not:

1. The boiler must be installed in a separate room - a furnace (boiler room) with an area of ​​​​at least 4 square meters. m., with a ceiling height of at least 2.5 m. The rules also state that the volume of the room must be at least 8 cubic meters. Based on this, you can find indications of the admissibility of a ceiling of 2 m. This is not true. 8 cubes is the minimum free volume.
2. The furnace must have an opening window, and the width of the door (not the doorway) must be at least 0.8 m.
3. Finishing the furnace with combustible materials, the presence of a false ceiling or raised floor in it is unacceptable.
4. Air must be supplied to the furnace through a through, non-closable vent with a cross section of at least 8 sq.cm. per 1 kW of boiler power.

Note: 8 cubes free - with a boiler power of up to 30 kW. For power from 31 to 60 kW - 13.5 cubic meters; for power from 61 to 200 kW 15 cubic meters. For boilers with a closed combustion chamber, the volume of the furnace is not standardized, but the dimensions must still be observed.

For any boilers, including wall-mounted hot water boilers, the following general standards must also be met:

• The boiler exhaust must exit into a separate flue (often incorrectly referred to as a chimney); the use of ventilation ducts for this is unacceptable - life-threatening combustion products can get to neighbors or other rooms.
• The length of the horizontal part of the flue must not exceed 3 m within the furnace and have no more than 3 angles of rotation.
• The outlet of the flue must be vertical and raised above the ridge of the roof or the highest point of the gable on a flat roof by at least 1 m.
• Since the products of combustion form chemically aggressive substances during cooling, the chimney must be made of heat- and chemical-resistant solid materials. The use of layered materials, e.g. asbestos-cement pipes, permissible at a distance of at least 5 m from the edge of the boiler exhaust pipe.

When installing a wall-mounted hot water gas boiler in the kitchen, additional conditions must be met:

• The height of the boiler suspension along the edge of the lowest branch pipe is not lower than the top of the sink spout, but not less than 800 mm from the floor.
• The space under the boiler must be free.
• A strong fireproof metal sheet 1x1 m should be laid on the floor under the boiler. Gas workers and firefighters do not recognize the strength of asbestos cement - it wears out, and the SES prohibits having anything containing asbestos in the house.
• The room should not have cavities in which combustion products or an explosive gas mixture can accumulate.

If the boiler is used for heating, then the gas workers (who, by the way, are not very friendly with the heating network - it always owes them for gas) will also check the condition of the heating system in the apartment / house:

• The slope of the horizontal pipe sections must be positive, but not more than 5 mm per linear meter in terms of water flow.
• An expansion tank and an air valve must be installed at the highest point of the system. It is useless to convince you that you will buy a “cool” boiler in which everything is provided for: rules are rules.
• The condition of the heating system must allow it to be pressure tested at a pressure of 1.8 atm.

The requirements, as we see, are tough, but justified - gas is gas. Therefore, it is better not to think about a gas boiler, even a hot water boiler, if:

• You live in a block Khrushchev or other apartment building without a main flue.
• If you have a false ceiling in your kitchen, which you do not want to clean, or a capital mezzanine. On a mezzanine with a bottom made of wood or fiberboard, which, in principle, can be removed, and then there will be no mezzanine, gas workers look through their fingers.
• If your apartment is not privatized, you can only count on a hot water boiler: allocating a room for a furnace means redevelopment that only the owner can do.

In all other cases, you can put a water boiler in the apartment; heating wall is possible, and floor - very problematic.

In a private house, any boiler can be installed: the rules do not require that the furnace be located directly in the house. If you make an extension to the house from the outside under the furnace, then the authorities will only have fewer reasons for nit-picking. In it, you can put a floor gas boiler of high power for heating not only the mansion, but also office space.

For private housing of the middle class, the optimal solution is a wall-mounted boiler; under it is not required, as for the floor, to arrange a brick or concrete pallet with sides of half a meter. Installing a wall-mounted gas boiler in a private house also does without technical and organizational difficulties: a fireproof closet for a furnace can always be shielded, at least in the attic.

Power supply

The automation of heating boilers consumes little electricity, but according to the rules, the boiler still needs a separate wiring branch with a 20 A automatic machine, like for a boiler. For a backup power supply, any computer UPS is well suited. Kilowatt will "hold" the automation for half a day or a day. This is quite enough to take the necessary measures in case of emergency.

About the flue

The cross-sectional area of ​​​​the house flue for it depends on the required power of the boiler (see below). At any power, the diameter of the flue must be at least 110 mm and not less than the diameter of the exhaust pipe. The dependence of the diameter of the flue on the power of the boiler is as follows:

• up to 24 kW - 120 mm.
• 30 kW - 130 mm.
• 40 kW - 170 mm.
• 60 kW - 190 mm
• 80 kW - 220 mm.
• 100 kW - 230 mm.

Boiler selection

Power

The fact that the power of the boiler must be sufficient is obvious. But it should not be excessive, especially if the heat exchanger is cast iron. Hot cast iron cracks from drops of condensate from the flue. There is another dangerous effect: the dew point temperature of the exhaust gases is approximately 56 degrees Celsius. If the heating return water temperature is lower, acidic condensate may form in the combustion chamber. What does this have to do with excess power? Too powerful a boiler will quickly warm up the system and go into standby mode before it cools down. The thermal inertia of a powerful heat exchanger is great, and while it warms up again, acid dew can fall out.

With a properly selected boiler power, the temperature in the combustion chamber will be 80-90 degrees. The allowable difference in power is quite large, but if you put a 60 kW boiler in a medium-sized private house, then acid rain from the inside will quickly disable it.

The required boiler power for a particular room is determined by heat engineering calculation. It is easier for residents of high-rise buildings: the data is available in the DEZ, the technical inventory bureau or the owner. In any case, you can use the approximate data by calculating an intermediate value for yourself. The maximum power values ​​are given for cases of a minimum outside temperature of -25/-40 degrees:

1. One-room apartment on the middle floors - 8/14 kW.
2. Corner apartment 60 sq.m. total area on the top floor of the block Khrushchev - 20/28 kW.
3. Private house 100 sq.m common - 24/38 kW.

Boiler

The purpose of the boiler is the accumulation of hot water for domestic needs. If you look at the instructions for the boiler, then the power there will be indicated through a fraction, for example - 10/22 kW. The first digit is the heating output for average conditions; it determines the gas consumption by 80%. The second power, maximum - for the rapid heating of domestic water.

If the boiler is empty, the boiler stops heating the heating for a while (it does not have time to cool down) and heats domestic water at the maximum. The gas consumption is, of course, the maximum. If water is taken from the boiler little by little, then it will be heated in operating mode, without force majeure. Based on this, the capabilities of the boiler can be judged by its capacity:

• 2-10 l - wash hands and wash dishes.
• 30-50 liters - take a quick shower.
• 100 l - wash thoroughly in the shower.
• 150 liters or more - you can take a bath and connect a washing machine to the hot water supply.

Note: if you already have it, it is advisable to leave it by turning off its machine. It will make a good hot water accumulator, and in case of problems with the gas boiler, you can turn it on.

Video: expert opinion on the choice of gas boilers

Documents for the boiler

Let's say you equipped a furnace in compliance with all requirements. Buying a boiler Still early. First of all, check if the old papers have been lost for gas, and take them out into the light of day:

1. Contract for the supply of gas, if the boiler is heating. Subconsumers may only install hot water boilers.
2. All documents for the gas meter. Any boiler cannot be installed without a meter. If it doesn’t exist yet, there’s nothing to be done, you need to set it up and draw it up, but that’s another topic.

Now you can buy a boiler. But, having bought, it is too early to install:

• In BTI, you need to make changes to the registration certificate at home. For privatized apartments - through the organization operating the house. In the new plan, a closet under the boiler should be applied, and clearly marked: “Furnace” or “Boiler Room”.
• Submit an application to the gas service for the project and specifications. As part of the required documents and the technical passport for the boiler, so it must have already been purchased.
• Install the boiler (see next section), except for the gas system. This can be done while the gas workers are preparing the project, if the premises are approved.
• Call a specialist to make a gas piping.
• Submit an application to gas workers for commissioning.
• Wait for the arrival of the gas service engineer, he will check everything, draw up a conclusion on suitability and give permission to open the gas shut-off valve to the boiler.

Note: gas workers are not supposed to give permission to private individuals to work on gas equipment. Therefore, to connect gas to the boiler, you will have to call a specialist or then “resolve the issue” with the inspector during commissioning. As a rule, the first one is cheaper.

Boiler installation

The adjoining of the boiler body close to any of the walls is unacceptable; it is forbidden. After installing the boiler in place, it is tied up - connecting three systems: gas, hydraulic and electric. The gas piping should be done by a gas specialist as indicated, and lastly, when everything else is already connected.

Electrical and hydraulic piping can be done independently. Here the main guiding document is the instructions for the boiler. A typical boiler hydraulic piping diagram is shown in the figure. For any boiler, the following conditions must be strictly observed:

1. Water and hot gases in the boiler heat exchanger must go countercurrent, otherwise it can simply explode with any automation. Therefore, it is extremely important not to confuse, through negligence or for the sake of ease of installation, cold and hot pipes. After hydrobinding, inspect the entire system carefully again, then rest for an hour, and inspect again.
2. If antifreeze has been poured into the heating system, drain it completely and flush the system twice with clean water. The admixture of antifreeze in the water entering the heat exchanger is also explosive.
3. Do not neglect the "mud filters" - coarse water filters. They should be located at the lowest points of the system. The accumulation of dirt between the thin fins of the heat exchanger also creates a dangerous situation, not to mention exorbitant gas consumption. At the beginning and at the end of the heating season, drain the sediment through the sumps, check their condition and, if necessary, flush the system.
4. If the boiler has a built-in expansion tank and a de-airing system, remove the old expansion tank, and close the old air valve tightly, after checking its condition beforehand: air leakage will also create a dangerous situation.

Video: an example of installing a wall-mounted gas boiler

Outcome

Installation of a gas boiler is technically and organizationally complicated. You can install only the simplest water boilers or expensive, fully automated home boilers on your own. But the connection of the boiler to the gas supply system (gas piping) must still be carried out by a specialist in the gas service or a certified installation organization. Otherwise prohibited by the rules for the installation and operation of household gas appliances.

Gas is still the cheapest type of fuel. Accordingly, the cheapest heating is obtained precisely on natural gas. True, the installation of a gas boiler is associated with certain difficulties - the premises must comply with fire safety standards.

A separate room is required for the installation of powerful gas boilers

Gas boiler installation standards

To ensure that there are no troubles when taking the gas boiler into operation, it is necessary to choose the installation site in accordance with current regulations. The installation of a gas boiler in a private house (single-apartment or blocked) is regulated by SNiP 31-02-2001, and the installation rules in apartment buildings are prescribed in SNiP 2.08.01.

For private houses

According to the norms, a gas boiler can be installed in a ventilated room, which is located:

• on the first floor of the house;
• in the basement or basement;
• in the attic:
• gas boilers up to 35 kW (according to MDS 41.2-2000 up to 60 kW) can be installed in the kitchen.

With regard to the installation of boilers in the kitchen, two norms are currently in force at once. According to one document, heating devices with a power of no more than 35 kW can be placed, according to another - no more than 60 kW. And we're talking about heaters. Gas stoves or other appliances that use gas do not count.

What to do? You need to find out what norms are followed in your GorGaz. After all, it is their representatives who will take the equipment into operation. Actually, the designer should tell you all the subtleties, but it’s also desirable to know this - you will need to prepare the room for installation.

Where to put

Now about where and how you can place gas equipment of different capacities. We are talking about gas boilers and their power is summarized:

• with a power of up to 150 kW inclusive - in a separate room on any floor, including the basement and basement;
• from 151 kW to 350 kW inclusive - in a separate room on the first, basement or basement floor, as well as in a separate attached room.

More powerful installations in private homes are not used.

Requirements for kitchens in which a gas boiler is installed

When placing a flowing gas water heater or a gas heating boiler with a power of up to 60 kW in the kitchen, the room must meet the following standards:

There is one more thing that is not spelled out in the norms, but which exists: the installation of a gas boiler is only allowed in a room with doors. In light of the latest trends - removing partitions, and instead of doors - this can be a problem. Without a door, permission will not be signed. Exit - put or . Another option is glass doors. They do not "load" the interior, but they are perceived precisely as doors.

All these requirements must be met. With violations, you simply will not sign the act of acceptance.

Requirements for individual rooms

Similar, but there are some differences:

• Ceiling height - not less than 2.5 m;
• The volume and area of ​​the premises are determined by the convenience of maintenance, but should not be less than 15 m 3.
• Walls leading to adjacent rooms must have a fire resistance limit of 0.75 hours and a zero limit for the spread of fire along the structure (brick, concrete, building blocks).
• The hood with the same requirements: for outflow - a three-fold exchange, for inflow in the same volume, plus air for combustion.
• The room must have a window. Glass area - not less than 0.03 m 2 per cubic meter of volume.

If the equipment is installed with a power of 150 kW or more, one of the prerequisites is the presence of an exit to the street. A second exit can be equipped - to a utility room (not residential). It can be a pantry or a corridor. Doors must be fireproof.

Please note that when calculating windows, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bglass is considered, and not the size of the window opening. Moreover, in some cases, they require the presence of at least one glass with an area of ​​\u200b\u200bat least 0.8 square meters. If it is problematic to enlarge the windows, you can make a similar window in the door (the standard does not say that it should be in the wall).

How to attach boiler rooms

Sometimes in the house there is no way to allocate a separate room. In this case, the boiler room is attached. The standards for ceiling height, volume, glazing and ventilation remain the same as for individual rooms, only specific standards are added:

Please note that the extension must be registered. Without official documents on it, no one will carry gas to you. And one more thing: when designing it, lay down all the norms without deviations, otherwise they will not be accepted. If the installation of a gas boiler is planned in an existing room, some deviations may be overlooked or some compensation may be offered (if there is a missing volume or ceiling height, they may be asked to increase the glazing area). For newly built buildings (and extensions too) there are no such discounts: they must include all the standards.

United kitchens

Today it has become fashionable to have or. It turns out a single large space in which it is easy to implement design ideas. But, the gas service regards such a room as residential and prohibits the installation of gas equipment.

It will not be possible to solve the problem with a studio apartment, but there is a way out with a combined one. If you are just planning to combine the kitchen and the living room, when you draw up the documents, call the resulting room the kitchen-dining room. This space is not residential, so there will be no restrictions. If the papers are already framed, you can try to redo them or go the other way - install a sliding partition. True, and in this case, alteration of documents will be required.

Place for installation of a gas boiler

Speaking specifically about apartments, they install gas boilers in them mostly in the kitchens. There are all the necessary communications: water supply, gas, there is a window and an extractor hood. It remains only to determine a suitable place for the boiler. For such an installation, wall-mounted (mounted) boilers are used. They are mounted on several hooks attached to the walls (they usually come with the kit).

As for installation in other rooms of an apartment or house, as a rule, none of them meets the requirements. For example, the bathroom does not have a window with natural light, the corridor usually does not fit in size - there are not enough tolerances from the corners or to the opposite wall, there is usually no ventilation at all or it is not enough. With pantries the same trouble - there is no ventilation and windows, there is not enough volume.

If there are stairs to the second floor in the house, often the owners want to put the boiler under the stairs or in this room. In terms of volume, it usually passes, and ventilation will have to be made very powerful - the volume is considered to be in two levels and it is necessary to ensure its triple exchange. This will require several pipes (three or more) of a very large cross section (at least 200 mm).

After you have decided on the room for the installation of a gas boiler, it remains to find a place for it. It is selected based on the type of boiler (wall or floor) and the requirements of the manufacturer. The data sheet usually details the distances from the wall to the right / left, the installation height relative to the floor and ceiling, as well as the distance from the front surface to the opposite wall. These may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, so read the manual carefully.

Installation standards according to SNiP

• Gas boilers can be installed on fireproof walls at a distance of at least 2 cm from it.
• If the wall is slow-burning or combustible (wooden, frame, etc.), it must be protected by fireproof material. It can be a three-millimeter sheet of asbestos, on top of which a sheet of metal is fixed. Plastering with a layer of at least 3 cm is also considered as protection. In this case, the boiler must be hung at a distance of 3 cm. The dimensions of the fireproof material must exceed the dimensions of the boiler by 10 cm from the sides and bottom, and from above must be 70 cm more.

Questions may arise regarding the asbestos sheet: today it is recognized as a material hazardous to health. You can replace it with a layer of mineral wool cardboard. And keep in mind that ceramic tiles are also considered a fireproof base, even if they are laid on wooden walls: a layer of glue and ceramics just give the required fire resistance.

The installation of a gas boiler relative to the side walls is also regulated. If the wall is non-combustible, the distance cannot be less than 10 cm. For combustible and slow-burning, this distance is 25 cm (without additional protection).

If a floor standing gas boiler is installed, the base must be non-combustible. A non-combustible stand is made on a wooden floor. It must provide a fire resistance limit of 0.75 hours (45 minutes). These are either bricks laid on a spoon (1/4 of a brick), or thick ceramic floor tiles that are laid on top of an asbestos sheet fixed to a metal sheet. The dimensions of the non-combustible base are 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the installed boiler.

The efficiency of autonomous heating directly depends on the correctness of the installation work. The gas boiler kit includes instructions that indicate the connection diagram of the unit. Installation of a double-circuit gas boiler must be carried out in full compliance with the requirements of the technical documentation. If you are not sure that you can do the correct installation of a gas boiler with your own hands, contact a specialist.

When choosing a place for a gas boiler, you need to take into account all the requirements for the boiler room. If you choose a boiler with a closed type of furnace, then these requirements will become much more loyal. Modern models of gas units have such fireboxes in their design. Installation of such a boiler is possible even in the kitchen, if its area is at least 12 m2.

Gas boilers are of two types:

• wall or hanging - mounted on the wall;
• floor or stationary - installed on a special stand and attached to the floor.

Requirements for installing a gas boiler

Installation of a double-circuit gas boiler should be carried out only on the main walls. All wooden elements must be insulated or removed. The insulation is made of steel sheet with an asbestos layer. The boiler must have free space around and easy access from any direction. Installation height at least 800 mm from the floor.

All fasteners for installing the boiler are included with the unit and are designed for the weight of the structure. The use of homemade fasteners is prohibited.

Installation of a stationary boiler is carried out on a concrete screed covered with a steel sheet and heat-insulating material.

Further installation and connection of wall-mounted and stationary boilers is carried out in the same way.

The main requirement for installing a gas unit is a level location. If the boiler has a slope, the heating surface of the boiler will fail. The reason will be the uneven distribution of the coolant, which will cause temperature imbalance and rapid wear of the heat exchanger.

Scheme of piping gas boilers

After completion of installation work, it is necessary to connect the boiler to the heating and water supply system. The piping scheme for a floor heating boiler and a wall-mounted one is exactly the same.

Connecting gas to the boiler without the participation of a specialist is prohibited and subject to a fine. Commissioning of the boiler is also carried out under the control of the gas service.

All other elements can be connected independently. Each boiler has almost the same details for connecting to communications:

• a coarse filter is installed on the return line of the heating circuit;

• the magnetic filter is a household water softener. It prepares cold water before heating it in the hot water circuit;

• mesh filter;
• gas filter;

• spurs are elements of a threaded connection of pipes;

• flexible corrugated hose;

• manometer - a device for measuring pressure;

• thermostat - an electronic automatic system for maintaining the set parameters;

• a coaxial chimney is a chimney that is a substitute for a traditional chimney in modern forced draft boilers;

• a 3 bar safety valve is a mechanical system for automatically discharging the coolant into the atmosphere when the pressure rises to critical values;

• the expansion tank is designed to compensate for the rise and fall of hydraulic pressure in the heating system;

• stop valves;

• automatic air vent is designed to remove air from the heating system.

When connected, all elements look like this:

The simplest heating and hot water supply system using a gas double-circuit boiler has the same design as traditional systems:

The boiler is a flow-through heating element for hot water supply and a closing link in the heating circuit.

If you want to provide a more complex heating system, then a similar scheme can be considered in another example:

The hot water circuit remained unchanged, but additional elements appeared in the heating circuit:

• the hydraulic arrow is installed immediately after the boiler. This is a simple vertical tank. Its purpose is to ensure constant circulation of water (with a decrease in the flow of coolant to consumers), the removal of air from the heating system, the distribution of coolant with different temperatures, maintaining the temperature difference between the supply and return lines (this is a prerequisite for the normal operation of a gas boiler);
• distribution manifolds on the direct and return lines are needed to evenly distribute the coolant between consumers;
• individual circulation pumps for each heating circuit allow you to provide your own temperature regime in all rooms.

Gas double-circuit boilers have an affordable price and allow you to provide the room with cheap heating and hot water. The use of a gas unit is possible in a heating system of any complexity.

Despite the fact that today there are a large number of alternative heat sources, gas equipment is still in demand in this area. Gas boilers are able to supply the room with the necessary heat. At the same time, they can be installed both in an apartment and in a private house. In this article, we will consider the requirements for this process, and you will also learn that installing a gas boiler with your own hands is possible.

• If the boiler has a power of up to 150 kW, then its installation is possible in any non-residential premises of the house, for example, a bathroom, a bathroom, a kitchen.
• Boiler power from 150 kW and more is limited in the choice of location. A place for installation on the basement or first floor is allowed.
• If the installation site is a kitchen, then 1 kW of its power should account for 0.2 m 3.
• In the event of a gas leak, there should be a device in the room to shut off the gas supply.
• After installing the gas boiler, all major components should be provided with sufficient access for maintenance.
• As for the walls of the room, they must have a fire resistance level of up to 45 minutes.
• There are also requirements for the cross section of the grille for ventilation. Calculations are taken for 1 kW of power 8 cm 2.

Separate requirements are also imposed on the chimney system:

• The chimney diameter must correspond to the specified parameter in the boiler data sheet.
• The pipe should be 0.5 m higher than the ridge.
• The chimney should not exceed 25.
• Up to 3 folds are allowed.
• To clean the chimney, there must be special openings.
• The chimney diameter must be equal to or greater than the chimney opening.

When installing the boiler in the kitchen, it is important to ensure the following conditions:

• At a height not less than 800 mm from the floor.
• There must be free space under the boiler.
• It is recommended to lay a metal sheet under the boiler on the floor.

Before installing the boiler, you should have the necessary documentation that allows you to do this. In particular, a gas supply project is being created for your apartment or house. These documents are developed by the gas supplying organization. In the course of obtaining this documentation, you may be required to provide a package of documents that includes the fact that you are the owner of this living space.

The floor boiler has a fairly large weight. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to prepare the surface where the wall-mounted boiler will stand. This includes the following:

• The screed is poured onto the floor. The floor should be treated with non-combustible material. Make sure the surface is perfectly flat.
• It is also desirable to cover the walls with non-combustible material. Otherwise, it is impossible to move the boiler close to the wall. It will be necessary to maintain a distance of up to 10 cm.

When all preparations are completed, the installation of auxiliary equipment is carried out. This includes:

• Expansion tank.
• Collector.
• Hydrogun.
• Boiler, etc.

Installation is much easier when there is a project on which all installation locations are indicated. On it, mark the walls, and then make holes for fasteners. It is also recommended to connect the installed equipment already at this stage to the pipeline going to radiators or to underfloor heating.

If the boiler is already installed, it may be difficult to connect the equipment to the pipes. For this reason, it is better to carry out all these works before installing the boiler.

As for the installation of a floor-standing boiler in the house, first of all, it is necessary to screw the shackles and adapters onto it, which are connected to the pipeline. Adapters can be of different diameters. For example, if the system is with natural circulation, then thick pipes are brought to the boiler. If forced circulation, then the pipes and, accordingly, the adapters will be of small diameter.

Having moved the boiler to the prepared place, it should be connected to the chimney. Next, connect the security group and connect to the rest of the harness.

If you have ever hung cabinets, shelves and similar items, then it will not be difficult for you to install a wall-mounted boiler. The wall must be level and solid. In most cases, the boilers in the apartment are mounted on a mounting plate. It should be fixed to the wall at the desired height. Depending on the wall finish, it may be necessary to fix non-combustible material up to 3 mm thick on it. Also take into account the fact that the boiler should be hung at a distance of at least 20 cm from other equipment.

Modern wall-mounted boilers have a lower connection to the heating and water supply system. Therefore, after fixing the boiler to the wall, the boiler is tied.

Connection to the gas pipeline

After installing the boiler, it is also necessary to connect the gas pipeline. This stage of work should be done carefully, because you should not “joking” with gas. The connection includes the installation of a filter and a valve, which, if necessary, can shut off the gas supply. Next, a special gas hose is connected. But in no case should a rubber hose be installed. After a while, it will crack. Paronite gaskets are used to seal the threads. After tightening the hose nut, be sure to check it for a gas cut.

So, we have reviewed with you the basic rules for installing a floor and wall-mounted gas boiler. You can share your experience about the work done in the comments to this article. You can also see installation diagrams in the corresponding section.

Video

In this video, you will learn about the intricacies of installing a wall and floor boiler:

Naturally, no one in their right mind will undertake the installation of heating equipment, especially one that runs on gas, without having the necessary amount of knowledge and experience behind them. However, knowing everything about this case is very useful. This will help you control the work of the hired personnel and understand how best to equip the heating system in your home so that it is as convenient as possible for you. Today we will tell you how a heating boiler is installed in a private house, using the gas wall and floor options as an example.

Technical and legal preparation for installation

The technical part of the installation will not take you very much time - qualified craftsmen will lay out all the pipes around the house within a few days, install radiators, connect the underfloor heating system if necessary and, of course, install the boiler itself (filling the screed, sealing the strobe in the walls, etc. finishing measures are not taken into account). It will take much longer to receive documents for this whole thing and coordinate work with supervisory authorities - sometimes it can take a whole year. In this article, we will tell you in detail about all the important stages that you have to go through.

Documentation for the installation of gas heating equipment

You can study all the rules and regulations for the installation of gas equipment in SNiP 31-02-2001. Everything is set out very clearly there - all equipment in our country is mounted according to these standards. In order to find out how to properly equip a boiler room, you will need to study another document - SNiP 42-01-2002.

Interesting to know! A boiler room is not required for all gas equipment, but only for those equipped with open combustion chambers. For gas combustion in such boilers, air is taken directly from the room where they are installed, due to which it becomes dry. It is difficult and even harmful for them to breathe. The volume of the room should be three times the volume of air that the boiler consumes for an hour.

Knowledge of SNiP standards for installing a gas boiler will not be enough. In addition, it is required to carefully study the specifications, which are the basis for connecting gas equipment to the central supply lines - all work is organized according to them.

Gas boiler installation project

The next step in the queue will be the preparation of the installation project. You can do it in the same place in Gorgaz in the design department or a specialized design organization operating under a valid license. When compiling this document, all the norms specified in the technical conditions are taken into account without fail. Immediately, a scheme will be developed for distributing gas pipes around the house and the site, their entry point into the house and the connection point to the gas heating boiler.

Equipment installation project

The project must also be agreed with the regulatory authorities. Up to this point, it is strictly forbidden to start installation. For approval, he goes to the department that controls the gas supply of the desired area and the house in particular. This stage can take up to 3 months.

From the author! Of course, we are talking about the first start-up of the equipment and the connection of gas pipes to the house. If you just want to replace the old boiler with a new one, there will be no such problems - it is enough to make a change in the project and check that the new equipment meets the specifications. And for those who are just building their house - start processing all the documents as early as possible. You can always carry out all intra-house communications - pipes, heating radiators, underfloor heating, in advance, so that later you only have to install the boiler, connect it, put it into operation and start using it.

When a project is submitted for approval, the following documents are attached to it:

1. Technical passport of the purchased boiler and its operating instructions.
2. All certificates of conformity attached to it are according to technical characteristics and sanitary standards.
3. The results of the examination that the equipment complies with all safety standards.

All these documents are necessarily attached to the gas equipment by the manufacturer - you won’t have to run after them anywhere.

If for some reason the project was not approved for you, then you will receive a reasoned refusal with a list of the actions that need to be performed before re-submitting documents. If everything is in order, nothing else prevents you from proceeding with the installation of your gas boiler.

How to properly equip a boiler room

If the gas boiler has an open combustion chamber or its power exceeds 30 kW, then it can only be installed in a separate non-residential premises, which must comply with the standards and norms prescribed in SNiP. Most often, a room in the basement is chosen for these purposes, but remember that this can only be done if you have a single-family house.

The chimney is an important component of the heating system

You need to talk about chimneys in more detail, since not only the efficiency of the equipment, but also your safety depends on their proper operation. Ventilation systems are also equipped strictly according to regulatory documents. They are subject to the following requirements:

A little about gas boilers

Today, there are a huge number of models of gas heating equipment on the market. By the way, on our site there is an excellent article with. All these boilers differ in a set of functionality and common features, which we will talk about in this chapter.

The first thing to know how many water heating circuits should be in the boiler. What is a contour? In this case, we mean the number of water heating systems in the housing of one device. Single-circuit boilers are intended only for heating water for the heating system. Dual circuit have a separate "chain" in which water for hot water moves, they are also called combined.

Interesting to know! Single-circuit boilers can also be adapted for the simultaneous heating of water for water supply. To do this, external storage boilers of indirect heating are connected to them.

Large floor boilers are most often single-circuit. Moreover, all working parts of the equipment (control module, pumps, etc.) are also placed outside the main body. This allows you to organize a favorable mode of operation for each node without unnecessary overheating and vibration.

The second difference between boilers is the way they are installed. I distinguish wall and floor options. The first are mostly double-circuit and are intended for installation in apartments and houses with an area of ​​\u200b\u200bno more than 200 m². The equipment is quite efficient. There are models with a capacity of up to 34 kW, which will allow you to heat a small house even in northern latitudes. They are often installed right in the kitchen.

Floor-standing boilers are installed only in boiler rooms, in view of their dimensions. They are characterized by increased power and high energy efficiency, although much depends on the type of burner.

Boilers can also be convection and condensation. The first ones are less expensive, they use only thermal energy from fuel combustion to heat water. The latter are able to additionally use steam condensation for this. Their efficiency is at a very high level (95-98%), they are very economical.

It is also worth paying attention to additional functionality. For example:

• combustion and ignition control;
• protection against boiling and freezing;
• traction control;
• protection against attenuation of the burner and so on.

It is clear that the “smarter” the boiler, the more expensive it will cost, so see for yourself.

Having dealt with the functions of the equipment, we proceed to the selection of it power. This parameter is the main one, and it is worth taking a closer look at it.

When calculating the required power, it is necessary to take into account the volume of the premises, but since the average height of the rooms in our houses rarely exceeds the 3 m mark, the formula has been simplified and tied to the area.

We will need to know the entire heated area of ​​the house and the latitude in which the house is built. For different regions, there are correction factors for the specific power required to heat 10 square meters.

For the south, it is 0.7-0.9; middle band - 1-1.2; temperate climate - 1.2-1.5 and northern latitudes - 1.5-2.

The calculation is done like this. Suppose that our room area is exactly 100 m². We divide them by 10 and multiply by a factor. For the south we get a maximum of 9 kW, and for the north - 20. We add here another 15-20% margin in case of errors.

It should be understood that such a calculation will be extremely approximate, since many reasons affect how well your house will warm up - all of them are called sources of heat loss. Here you need to know the thermal conductivity of the wall material, and the energy efficiency of windows, and roof insulation, and the position of the house relative to the wind rose ... But what is there - the builders poorly threw the mortar into the masonry, which caused gaps through which cold air constantly penetrates into the house . All this affects the overall energy efficiency of the building. In general, if you need more accurate calculations, we recommend using an online calculator.

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