You can decorate even the most unsightly corner of the garden and at the same time add a piece of light romance to it with the help of climbing roses. These unusual, flowering climbing plants delight their owners with their flowering almost throughout the season. But for it to be flawless, climbing roses require proper planting and special care. We will talk about all the subtleties and nuances of growing climbing plants in this article.

Curly rose: planting and care, photo

Any plant in the garden or in the suburban area requires care. Particular attention should be paid to some flowering crops, which include weaving roses. but with long branches. Abundant and long flowering of this beautiful plant can be achieved only with the exact implementation of all the rules for planting, careful care throughout the year, timely pruning and protection from winter frosts and pests.

Choosing a landing site

Roses are photophilous, therefore, with a lack of sunlight, fresh stems will develop poorly and bloom only next season. However, the midday sun can burn the plant. The place for planting roses should be such that during the hottest hours the bushes were in the shade. The best option would be a site that the sun heats in the morning. In the morning, dew from the leaves will quickly evaporate, and viral diseases will not be terrible for roses.

Curly roses are also picky. They do not tolerate drafts well, and therefore the corners of buildings are not suitable for planting them. Do not plant them in areas where roses have previously grown and in wetlands. It is best to choose a bed with a slope so that water does not stagnate in the soil. The roots of the plant reach about two meters in length, so if the soil moisture is constantly very high, the flowers are planted on a hill.

Climbing shrubs for decoration can be planted along the walls of the building. So that their roots are not depleted at the same time, the distance from the wall should be at least 60 cm. In any case, climbing roses should be planted near some kind of support. These can be fences, nets, pergolas, arches, walls, or specially crafted poles or cones.

When to plant climbing roses?

In temperate regions, shrubs are planted in open ground in late September - early October. Within two weeks, they will give the first roots and will have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In spring, the root and aboveground parts will begin to grow actively, the bush will become lush, gain strength and bloom. However, in the northern regions, climbing roses are best planted in the spring, since the bushes planted in the fall will not have time to adapt, and may freeze out in winter.

Plants planted in the spring are delayed in their development by about half a month and require increased attention. Before planting in the ground, such seedlings are cut into three buds.

Selection and processing of seedlings

Beautiful climbing rosalia can only be obtained with healthy seedlings. Their viability and quality is indicated by the appearance of the trunk. It should only be whitish green in color, not gray or brown. Acquired seedlings in open ground are not planted immediately. They must first be prepared:

Thanks to this preparation for landing bushes will begin to grow actively, and during the flowering period, many buds are formed on them.

Soil preparation

Climbing roses love fertile, loamy, well-drained soils. Only heavy clay and sand are not suitable for their cultivation. Therefore, clay areas are diluted with sand, and sandy areas with clay. More suitable in terms of chemical composition and loose soil will become after adding a small amount of lime to it.

When digging, soil fertility can be increased by adding to it:

• phosphate fertilizers;
• humus;
• humus;
• phosphorobacterin (special soil bacteria).

The soil is being prepared for planting climbing shrubs in advance. It is necessary to dig it up several times at the end of summer, and then loosen it again in the spring.

Landing features

The roots of a young plant should not experience a lack of space, so the holes for them should be free enough. The optimal depth is considered to be 60-65 cm. In order for the root system to develop freely, the distance between plants must be at least one meter.

When planting roses in a hole, you must observe the following recommendations:

The support to which the rose will be attached in the future should not interfere with the development of the root system. If the support is portable, then special tripods, lattices or trellises can be used. The pole and tripods can be made independently by knocking down for this wooden beams with a height of 2.5-3 meters. They will look gorgeous as arch supports, on both sides of which two bushes are planted. By the end of the second year, they will be completely entwined with climbing roses with delicate flowers (pictured).

Care of planted bushes

The main rules for caring for climbing roses include regular watering, timely feeding of plants, tying and pruning of shoots, sheltering bushes for the winter and protecting them from pests and diseases. Let's consider each item in more detail.

Watering and feeding

Climbing shrubs do not like excess moisture and tolerate drought without problems. It is recommended to water them once a week with a small amount of water, which should not be cold. Overwatering plants can lead to viral diseases and poor appearance of the bushes.

The best way to fertilize roses manure or other organic fertilizers, alternating them with mineral supplements. It should be borne in mind that young plants at first will have enough fertilized soil when planting. Therefore, it is not necessary to feed them too often. The next year after planting, care for climbing roses will consist of fertilizing with fertilizers of the following composition:

• fresh black soil;
• humus;
• phosphorus supplement;
• humus.

With such a mixture, the soil in which roses grow is “enlivened” in spring and autumn. If it is not possible to prepare the composition yourself, then you can buy ready-made fertilizer for roses.

Pruning shoots

All climbing roses divided into two types, each of which requires a certain amount of trimming:

1. In flowering shrubs from June to July, after planting, all shoots are shortened. Shoots 30 cm long should remain. New stems that appear during active growth are cut off as needed to form a beautiful bush.
2. Roses with a small number of basal shoots that appear only on old branches are shortened to 30 cm in the first year. The next year after planting, all old shoots are cut out completely.

garter of climbing roses

After pruning, new branches will begin to grow, which must be directed, giving the bush the intended shape. To form more buds, individual lashes are tied up. At the same time, it is undesirable that they go only up, since with this arrangement, the buds are formed only at the tops.

For lush flowering bushes There are several ways to tie:

1. Shoots can be arranged "fan", leaving side branches not tied up. They will not interfere with each other, freely extending to the sides and up.
2. The main shoots are arranged horizontally, tied to a support. After a while, they will give lateral new branches that will grow upwards, forming a cloud of beautiful flowers.
3. In order for curly branches to braid an arch or a pillar, they are tied in a spiral, twisting around the support.

Whatever way the bush is formed, one should not neglect the care of climbing roses and preparing them for winter.

Protecting roses from frost

Before proceeding to the shelter, the bushes must be prepared. For this, leaves are removed from them, old loops and weak shoots are cut out. As a result 11-12 healthy and strong shoots should remain. All work is carried out in dry weather.

The method of sheltering a climbing plant depends on the region in which it grows. In regions with a mild climate, branches can not be removed from the support by first covering them with spruce branches, and then wrapping them with foil.

In areas with severe winters, plants are completely removed from the support. First, they gather in a large bundle and bind. After the air temperature drops to -5C, they gently bend to the ground, where they are fixed with wire or pegs. The base of the bush is sprinkled with a mixture of peat and soil, and the shoots are covered with spruce branches. Everything is hidden from above dense film or agrofibre.

It is very important to remove the shelter in time in the spring. Otherwise, in a humid environment and without fresh air, roses can suffocate and start to hurt. On open shrubs, shoots are refreshed and tied to supports. The first feeding is recommended only after the appearance of young leaves.

With errors in care and improper arrangement of bushes on the site, they may be affected by the following diseases:

When treating climbing roses, it must be remembered that all cut affected areas must be burned. Otherwise, they can infect other plants.

Proper planting and care is the key to abundant and long flowering of these royal flowers. Those who decide to grow climbing roses on their site will never regret it.

Planting and caring for climbing roses

The rose is often referred to as the queen of flowers. This flower has been known for a long time: it was mentioned in the legends of the ancient Hindus. According to the legends of other nations, the rose was created by Allah himself so that she would become the mistress of flowers instead of the beautiful, but too lazy lotus. A rose is found in almost every garden, because planting and caring for it in the open field, as well as reproduction, is within the power of every hardworking gardener.

Description, varieties and varieties

Among the representatives of garden flowers, the rose has few equals both in terms of cost-benefit ratio and beauty. The variety of species and varieties baffles any novice gardener. Reviewing a lot of photos, he has to choose only a few varieties, because it is impossible even physically to plant all types of roses in his flower garden. When choosing your variety of roses, do not forget that many of them are thermophilic and are not able to winter in the open ground in a temperate climate. Roses are park, climbing, hybrid tea, miniature, ground-blooded.

park roses. The most decorative of all kinds. They are distinguished by good winter hardiness, they feel great in a temperate climate, even without shelter for the winter. They bloom one of the first in late May or early June and bloom from two weeks to a month and a half, but, unfortunately, once. Bushes of park roses are usually from 1 m to 3 m in height, unpretentious and undemanding to care for. In addition, there is no need to trim them annually.

Tea-hybrid roses. The most planted group of roses at the moment. They are not frost resistant. Absolutely all types of this group must be covered for the winter. They have rather medium-sized bushes, therefore, to achieve a decorative effect, it is necessary from 5 to 10 bushes per 1 sq. m.

Floribunda roses. These roses are becoming more and more popular. They are not too inferior to hybrid tea roses in size and smell, but they are significantly ahead of them in terms of frost resistance and continuity of flowering. In large flower arrays, they occupy the main place.

miniature roses. A group of tiny and harmonious flowers. Unusually easy to adapt to any environment, bloom thickly, brightly and for a long time, until the deepest autumn. For the winter, they are content with light shelter.

Climbing roses. They can be conditionally divided into two subgroups: large-flowered and small-flowered.

Climbing roses are classified as small-flowered. Their characteristic feature is long flexible lashes that spread or rise. Such roses need support for growth and a little shelter for the winter. It is not recommended to prune these roses in autumn, because they bloom along the entire length of precisely those shoots that have already overwintered.

In large-flowered climbing buds larger than 4 cm are collected in inflorescences. Some varieties are similar to hybrid tea. Most of them bloom twice a season. These roses can also bloom on young shoots released only this year, which means that if your rose is frozen in winter, then in summer it will still bloom without fail. This subgroup is highly disease resistant. Large bushes reach 2 m and do not require support, with the exception of some sprawling varieties.

Ground covers. These varieties are designed to create carpets of roses that bloom continuously and densely. They are distinguished by amazing unpretentiousness, winter hardiness, immunity to diseases. But before choosing these roses, be sure to check to what size they can grow.

Ground cover roses can be divided into 4 subgroups:

• creeping low - reach 30-45 cm in height and 150 cm in width;
• creeping high - reach 45 cm in height and more than 150 cm in width;
• drooping small ones - reach 90 cm in height and up to 150 cm in width;
• drooping large - reach 100 cm in height and 150 cm in width.

Modern parks. This group of roses includes hybrids of Cordes roses, musk, rugosa, moyesi and shrabs. The group itself was identified not so long ago and is abbreviated as shrabs. This includes all species that do not fall into other groups and have certain traits:

1. Inflorescences and buds of this group of roses often have an atypical shape of different shades.
2. A characteristic feature is repeated flowering. Scars bloom for a long time and actively.
3. Roses with a unique aroma in this group are more common than among the same hybrid tea.
4. The prevailing number of scrubs has a powerful bush, reaching 2 m, but at the same time they are elegant and voluminous.
5. Absolute undemanding. Growing a scrub is within the power of absolutely any novice gardener.
6. Good immunity to diseases and excellent frost resistance.

Planting rose seeds

Many gardeners claim that rose seeds take a long time to germinate and are difficult, but you can speed up this process by leaving the seeds in the cold for a long time. Planting seeds can be done in three different ways:

• for the winter in open ground;
• in the spring in open ground;
• seedlings in pots for the winter.

Sowing seeds for the winter in open ground. With this method of planting, it is not necessary to keep the seeds in the cold, as this will happen anyway. But soaking the seeds for a while in a growth stimulator still does not hurt. Before the onset of frost, they dig up a piece of land under a bed of roses, adding humus, compost or peat. In the garden, furrows are made no deeper than 4 cm into which seeds are planted at a distance of 15 cm from each other. Cover the furrows with soil. If the winter is especially frosty or with little snow, it is recommended to cover the bed.

garden bed for spring sowing it is best to prepare in the fall, but if this was not possible, then you can do it in the spring when the soil thaws. Planting material must be kept for some time in a growth stimulator. Seeds, as in the case of autumn planting, must be planted in furrows at a distance of 10–20 cm and at a depth of 1 cm to 3 cm.

Before planting seeds for seedlings they need to be kept at a low temperature for several months. It is preferable to plant in boxes at the end of February. Pots must be filled with a mixture of earth, sand and peat. The seeds soaked in the growth stimulator are slightly pressed into the prepared soil and covered with a small layer of fine sand. Spray the sand with a sufficient amount of water and leave in a cool place.

Advice. When the first sprout appears, rearrange the boxes in a bright place, but protected from direct sunlight. The rest of the shoots will not keep you waiting.

After the seedlings have 2-3 leaves, they need to be planted in separate pots, and in early May, the plants can be transferred to open ground.

plant care

A place for roses should be chosen sunny. In the shade, they bloom worse and paler, in addition, spots and blind shoots may appear on the leaves. The site should be well ventilated, but at the same time protected from strong cold winds. Roses have no special requirements for soil, they are suitable for any, except for heavy ones.

Roses are watered once a week so that the earth is saturated by 20-25 cm, otherwise the plant will put on superficial roots that will be easily damaged. In hot weather, watering is doubled. If the situation is such that for a long time it will not be possible to water the roses, it is necessary to lay the base of the bushes with grass, humus or tree bark. These actions will help retain water at the roots of the roses, as well as make it difficult for weeds to grow.

In autumn, most varieties are left for wintering in the open field, after wrapping the bush in a tight cotton bag, and sprinkling the roots with earth and sand.

Cupping plays a significant role in the health of flowers. If you stop roses in a timely manner, you can increase the number of leaves and buds. For the winter, new shoots should be cut off if you are not sure that the rose will survive the winter well. New shoots will only take strength.

Fertilizer and top dressing roses

The best fertilizer is, of course, natural fertilizer. Such as manure. The ideal top dressing for roses will be horse manure that has lain for at least six months. But with fresh chicken or pork manure, you should beware. It is too acidic for roses and is quite capable of harming young unstable shoots. And in general, fresh manure does not bring anything good to the soil, because it blocks nitrogen.

Just before flowering, when small buds have already appeared on the bushes, roses are fed with calcium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). At a time when the bush is actively growing and developing, it must be fed with infused mullein, mineral fertilizers or herbal tincture. Such top dressing is done once every two weeks.

Advice. It is best to apply fertilizer in dissolved form after watering.

In the second half of summer, you should stop feeding and let the plant prepare for winter.

Plant propagation: methods

Summer rooting cuttings. For cuttings, the stems are chosen not the youngest, but not the oldest. A sign that the stem is suitable for cuttings is the ease of breaking off the thorns. The stems are cut early in the morning and divided into 12–15 cm cuttings with a treated sterile knife. Each piece should contain two or three leaves and the same number of buds, but there should not be flowers on it. Leaves must be removed or trimmed by a third. This will protect against excessive evaporation of moisture.

The wells must be pre-treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, and soak the future sprouts in a honey solution (0.5 tsp honey per glass of water), to which you can add chopped rose leaves. The cuttings are dropped at an angle into the holes and mini-greenhouses are made using glass jars. After a couple of weeks, you need to remove the banks for a short time, to harden the processes. And after a week from the beginning of hardening, the banks can be completely removed. By the fall, when the shoots reach 30 cm, buds may appear on them, they are pinched so that the rose spends all its strength on the formation of the root system, and not on flowers.

Planting cuttings in autumn. It happens that you got a unique rose in the fall, and it will not be possible to make it take root by winter, and it is not always convenient to store cuttings in the house in winter. In such cases, divide the stem into cuttings and dig them in the garden. From above, cover with a dry layer of leaves or covering material so that the plant does not freeze in winter, and transfer it in the usual way to a permanent place.

Rooting in potatoes- this is the most common method of propagating roses, because roses from potatoes feed on additional carbohydrates and starch. In a lighted place, it is necessary to dig a groove up to 15 cm deep and fill it with sand by about a third. We stick cuttings up to 20 cm long into a potato and deepen them by 10 cm. Then everything is done as in the usual way: cover with jars and harden the plants after a while. Every five days, you can water with a sugar solution (2 teaspoons of sugar per glass of water).

Reproduction in a package. The lower part of the cuttings is moistened with aloe juice in a ratio of 1: 9 aloe juice to water and stuck into sterile soil placed in a bag. I fill the bag with air, securely tie it so that the air does not escape and hang it on the window. A month later, when the roots appear at the cuttings, they are planted in the manner described above.

Rooting in water. Freshly cut roses are rooted in this way. Plant stems cut into cuttings must be placed in distilled water. Be sure to remove all thorns and flowers. Leaves can also be trimmed or shortened. Change the water periodically until the stems take root.

Advice. With any method of rooting, always remove thorns and inflorescences from the stem, and shorten the leaves by a third.

Diseases and pests

Many varieties of roses have a fairly strong immunity to various kinds of diseases, but this does not mean that roses do not get sick at all. Most often, diseases caused by various fungi are observed in roses.

1. Rust appears in the spring. It is characterized by spots on the upper part of the leaves and bright orange clusters of spores on the inside of the leaf, which begin to blacken by the second half of summer. The rose begins to shed its leaves and the stems take on a reddish hue. For treatment, decoctions of field ivy are used, the damaged parts are immediately removed upon detection.
2. Black spot appears at the end of summer with excess water or lack of food. The leaves of roses quickly become covered with dark spots with a yellow border, then the spots pass to the stems of the plant, the flower loses its leaves and dies after a while. The treatment for this disease is the same as for rust.
3. Another common disease is powdery mildew. She got her name because of the peculiarity of forming a flour coating on the leaves and stems of the plant, on which drops later appear. This disease mainly affects varieties grown in greenhouses and houseplants. The disease spreads very quickly and infects neighboring bushes, therefore, at the slightest suspicion, immediate action is required. Damaged plants are cut and burned, and ash must be added to the ground under the bushes and dug up.

Rose: combination with other plants

As neighbors for roses, you can select plants that will not only look good nearby, but will also bring a lot of benefits. For example, they will protect the rose from harmful insects.

If you plant nasturtium or lavender along with roses, then this is guaranteed to protect the roses from the appearance of aphids. But marigolds and calendula will get rid of beetles. Onions and garlic have a beneficial effect on the health of roses and even add aroma to them.

Rose in landscape design

Most gardeners prefer to plant roses in separate flower beds, but recently this approach to using roses in landscape design has become less popular. After all, many roses are in perfect harmony with perennials decorating borders, or with low groups of shrubs. When choosing color combinations, it is important to consider the shades and shapes of inflorescences.

For mixborders, it is better to choose hybrids of musk rose, as they are the owners of bushes of the correct form and are covered with bouquets of bright flowers. Some varieties of floribunda roses and not too tall shrubs are preferably planted in a flower bed with perennials. Choose varieties with medium-sized flowers for such a bed so that they are in harmony with perennials, and not compete.

Varieties of roses, which are among the most unpretentious in care, can be placed in problem areas of the garden. And climbing types of roses will help to disguise buildings and unsympathetic designs. Ground-blood scrubs will ideally look on slopes and slides. A huge variety of varieties and types of roses will allow you to create your own unique and unique landscape design.

Many novice gardeners, rightly considering the rose to be the queen of flowers, are afraid to start growing it on their site, believing that she needs royal care. However, this is not the case at all. Following simple rules and advice, growing a rose will be a real pleasure for you, and your rose garden will be a source of pride.

Growing roses from seeds: video

Rose varieties: photo

Rose is a flower that will decorate any garden. However, not all gardens are still fragrant with these regal beauties. Inexperienced gardeners are afraid that the rose will require special care, a lot of trouble and greenhouse conditions.

An experienced gardener will certainly have at least a rose bush in his garden. It is known that this plant is quite unpretentious, withstands short-term frosts down to -5 degrees, perfectly takes root in our harsh climatic conditions and requires no more attention than any other flower.

And yet, this does not mean that you can plant a rose and forget about it.

In order for the beauty to please every year with lush flowering, it is necessary to create conditions for her. And for this you need to learn more about what this magnificent flower is.

Roses have many types and varieties.

Roses are divided into:

• garden;
• climbing;
• park;
• bush;
• spray.

garden roses

This plant originated from the common wild rose. Breeders have created a real queen of the flower world. A garden rose begins to bloom earlier than its counterparts by 2-3 weeks. Flowering is long, plentiful.

Unlike her ancestor, the garden beauty is more demanding in terms of care, in choosing a landing site, and cannot winter without proper preparation.

If a garden rose is deprived of all this, it is capable of degeneration. The plant will survive by losing its best qualities - flower shape, pomp, number of buds. However, subject to all requirements, roses will delight for many, many years.

climbing roses

Climbing roses are descended from wild roses. But unlike other roses, these plants have very long stems. Flowers can have a different shape: double, semi-double, simple.

Climbing roses are divided into:

• ramblers;
• climbings.

Ramblers were created first. They immediately fell in love with flower growers. Now roses began to grow not in single bushes and played a serious role in vertical gardening. Flexible trunks of ramblers began to climb trellises and arches, decorate the walls of houses and ennoble unsightly areas.

The flowers of this group do not differ in size, they are only up to 2.5 cm in size, but they are located along the entire length of the shoot. They are also good because they endure frosts even under light cover.

But the breeders didn't stop there. By crossing ramblers with floribunda and hybrid tea roses, climbings appeared. These were roses that had longer and stronger trunks than ramblers (the trunk length reaches 4 meters). And their flowers were larger. The size of the climbing rose is from 8 cm to 11 cm.

For their beauty, climbings pay with a weaker resistance to frost. Their long lashes must be well covered. If the lashes are not preserved, the rose will not die, but it will not have time to re-grow full-fledged lashes, and all the charm of verticality will disappear.

park roses

Park roses are different types and varieties of cultivated wild rose.

They include antique garden roses, wrinkled roses and hybrids of modern breeding developments.

Plants of this group are unpretentious, flowering begins in May and lasts for a month. They have good winter hardiness.

Canadian roses are especially resistant to frost - a type of park roses. They were bred specifically for harsh climatic zones. These are exactly the roses that can tolerate frosts up to -35 and even up to -45 degrees without shelter. At the same time, they endow their owners with abundant flowering, which occurs in waves. Repeat bloom is not as lush, however, has its charms.

English roses - other representatives of park species, cannot boast of such frost resistance, they need to be covered from extreme cold. However, their feature is the increased doubleness of the flower. The number of petals can reach up to 100 pieces.

spray roses

Another descendant of wild rose is a spray rose. Already by the name it is clear that this rose grows in a bush. The shape of the bush can be sprawling or pyramidal.

The height of such a bush can be different, it depends on the type of plant. There are roses, the bush of which rises only 25 cm, and there are those that spread over meters. The length of the peduncle is also different, it can reach more than 80 cm.

The flowers themselves can have a different shape and size. The flower can reach 18 cm in diameter. At the same time, the flowers can be single, or they can be collected in large caps of inflorescences (up to 200 flowers). The doubleness of this species is also diverse - from the simplest flower structure to many petals, the number of which reaches 120 pieces.

Spray

The spray group was bred by breeders relatively recently at the end of the 20th century. The roses of this group originated from the famous floribunda. Their peculiarity is the small growth of the bush, but very abundant flowering.

The height of the bush rarely reaches 50 cm, but on one small shoot, about 15 flowers bloom at once. At the same time, the bud itself has a rather large size for such a bush - up to 7 cm.

The flowers cover the branch so tightly that the stem itself is not always visible.

Because of this feature, designers are especially willing to use this type of roses in wedding bouquets. The rose is very decorative, resistant to frost, disease, dampness and requires very little maintenance.

Preparing a place for planting garden roses

One of the main requirements for the long growth of a rose and the abundance of its flowering is the correct location of the bush.

A rose is a flower that has a very high need for sunlight. The plant itself will be able to survive in shading, however, in the shade, the lush beauty will definitely begin to be reborn and very soon, instead of a bright, elegant bush, the owner will receive long, thin shoots that will bloom poorly.

To prevent this from happening, a number of requirements must be met:

1. the place should receive sunlight throughout the daylight hours. At the same time, if several bushes are planted, high ones should be planted in the background, and lower bushes should be placed in the foreground so as not to obscure them;
2. the rose should not be in a draft, however, it needs good air circulation. Otherwise, the flower will be susceptible to fungal diseases;
3. groundwater should not be close to the planted roots;
4. swampy soil is not suitable for this plant;
5. you should choose a soil that will be loose and saturated with minerals (the fertile layer should be at least 40 cm);
6. the rose loves a lot of space, so crowding of plantings should be avoided.

Soil preparation for planting

After the site for planting the bush is chosen, you can begin to prepare the site. This is a serious matter, it depends on it how long the whole bush will grow and develop, how quickly it will take root, how successfully it will endure the winter cold.

It is best to use a long preparation method.

Experienced flower growers do this: they do not immediately dig up the turf, but cover it with several layers of newspapers (8-12 layers) and fix the newspapers so that they do not blow away. This shelter is left for 2 months. All weeds die under the newspapers, the earth becomes soft, now it is easy to dig it up with a shovel or a rototiller.

After that, pits are prepared for each bush. If a piece of land has already been cultivated, it is necessary to introduce substances that improve the soil. In order to find out what the soil needs, it is best to check the soil for composition - the ideal pH for roses is considered to be in the range from 6.0 to 7.0. If the soil is acidic, add lime.

When digging a hole for each plant, fertilizer is added to each hole.

In addition, about 250 g of bone meal is added to the planting pits. If superphosphate is added, care must be taken to ensure that the roots of the plant do not come into contact with it. It is necessary to pour superphosphate, then pour a layer of earth and only after that plant a bush.

Spring planting dates

In order to plant roses in the spring, you need to wait until the ground has completely thawed and warmed up. It is believed that the best time for landing is the period from the last decade of April to the second decade of May.

It is not good to delay the disembarkation, even a very early landing is better than a late one. In this case, young plants will not begin to develop, but will not die, but will wait for the onset of favorable weather. But at a later time the earth will dry up, the sun will already begin to warm strongly, and under such conditions it will be extremely difficult for a young plant to take root, it may simply die.

Autumn planting dates

Many gardeners tend to plant all plants in the spring. However, in the fall, you can easily plant rose bushes, they will have time to take root.

In open ground in autumn, you can plant a rose from mid-September to mid-October. At this time, the weather is still warm, the earth has not cooled down and is well saturated with moisture.

But flower growers who live in cooler regions (Siberia) cannot count on a long and warm autumn. Therefore, they are advised to plant roses from the end of August to the end of September.

The plant should be planted 21-30 days before the first frost.

Selection of varieties of garden roses

There are a lot of varieties of roses. It is unlikely that anyone will be able to get acquainted with all.

Therefore, in order to choose a seedling, you need to decide in which direction to look for the most suitable variety for your own garden.

The best varieties for vertical gardening

For those who want to choose the best varieties for vertical gardening, we can advise varieties of semi-climbing and climbing roses:

• Variety "Hamburg" - the bush reaches a height of 2 m. Beautiful raspberry-colored flowers, slightly pointed in shape, up to 9 cm in size. It has a delicate, unobtrusive aroma;

• "Berlin" is a bright scarlet flower, up to 8 cm in size. The middle has a golden color. A very unusual rose. Scourges can reach 1.5 m or more;

• "Gella" - a bush up to 3 m in size. The flowers are semi-double, collected in large brushes. The rose is creamy with a slight creamy undertone;

• Dorothy Perkins is a shrub that grows up to 5 meters. Flowers have a rich pink color. The shape of the flower is open, the flowers are collected in large baskets of inflorescences.

Frost-resistant varieties

There are no ugly roses. Therefore, it is especially important to pay attention not only to beauty, but also to other qualities. For example, for resistance to harsh climates.

Invincible leaders in this matter are Canadian roses. They are able to winter without shelter and tolerate frosts down to -45 degrees.

Here are just a few varieties of this species:

• "Emily" (Emelie) - a variety with pale pink flowers, the bush reaches a height of 110 cm. Abundant flowering. A very grateful rose;

• "Gartentraume" - has not only large flowers, but also an incredibly pleasant aroma, and the height of the bush can grow up to 140 cm;

• "Midsummer" - in addition to being the hardiest rose of all presented, its flower has an unusual color - the petals are bright red at the edges, and the middle is fiery yellow. The shape of the flower is also beautiful - like that of old English roses;

• "Piccolo" - a well-known variety, red-carmine color.

miniature varieties

Roses are very interesting not only with huge flowers, but also miniature ones.

Here are a few varieties:

• 'Ferry' is one of the most famous miniature roses. It has rich pink flowers collected in rich caps of inflorescences. Quite unpretentious;

• "Los Angeles" - bright yellow, almost orange flowers, up to 4 cm in size. The bush is not high, up to 40 cm. It blooms very profusely;

• "Curlers" - a new variety in an unusual color of flowers - bright red with white streaks.

Varieties with the largest flowers

• "Polka" is one of the most famous varieties. Flowers can reach 16 cm;

• "Paul Neyron" - a variety that probably has the largest flower, reaches 18 cm;

• "Ashram" - a flower up to 13-15 cm.

How to choose the right rose seedlings

Seedlings should be chosen carefully. In retail outlets, roses can be sold both with a closed root system (in containers) and with an open one.

If possible, it is better to buy a rose in a container, because the root system is better preserved there. However, if the rose is recently dug up, it's okay if you buy a rose with open roots.

The seedling should have 2-3 cut and lignified stems, which should be smooth, clean, without spots, sores and other signs of any disease.

The kidneys must be in a dormant state.

There should be no leaves or flowers on the seedlings.

How to plant roses

For planting, you should dig a hole 40x50 in size, make a small mound in the middle of the hole. Plants are placed on this mound, and the roots straighten and descend from the mound into the planting hole.

It is necessary to ensure that the root neck of the bush is 5 cm below ground level. After that, the hole with the root system is buried.

For the convenience of watering around the plant, it is best to make a small side out of the ground, which will prevent the spread of water.

After planting, water the plant.

After planting, the bush is watered abundantly! If watering is missed, the plant may die.

Pruning before planting

Few people know that seedlings need to be prepared for planting.

To do this, you need to consider the ratio of roots and shoots. It's okay if there are few shoots, and the root system is strong and well developed - the plant will grow and give new shoots.

But if there are many shoots, and the root system is weak, then you need to leave as many shoots as there are roots. Excess shoots are cut off. Otherwise, under the bright spring sun, the buds on all shoots will begin to bloom, and they will need a lot of moisture and nutrients. A weak root system is not able to feed a lush bush. Therefore, the plant may die.

Long shoots of the plant are not suitable for planting. They leave only stumps, 10 cm high, with two or three buds.

The dried ends of the roots are also carefully trimmed with secateurs.

Processing the root with clay mash

This treatment is done when the roots of the dug out plant need to be preserved for some time (during transportation) or in order for the plant to take root better in a new place.

In order to prepare a talker, you need to take 10 liters of water, add a little clay (so that after dipping the root, a little clay remains on it), add 1 tablet of a root formation stimulator (heteroauxin, root), and stir. The resulting mixture should have the consistency of liquid sour cream.

Before planting, you need to dip the roots in a mash and dry them in the air for about 30 minutes. After that, the plant can be planted.

How much to deepen the vaccination, depending on the region

In regions with different climates and different soil composition, grafting in roses is deepened in different ways.

So, for example, in the steppe regions, where the winds are blowing, and the snow cover is blown away, and the earth remains, at times, not covered, it is recommended to graft 5 cm deep.

On average, it is believed that a rose graft should be deepened by 3-5 cm or left at soil level.

rose care

Roses are not demanding plants. However, a complete lack of care is unacceptable. For roses, watering, timely feeding, spraying the bush from pests and treating diseases (if any) are important.

Overgrown bushes must be formed, that is, pruned. And also, you need to rejuvenate the bush, that is, cut out old and dried branches - carry out sanitary pruning.

An important event is the preparation of roses for winter.

Watering and feeding

Watering the flowers is necessary. Roses are watered abundantly - 10 liters per bush as the soil dries.

Regular watering is especially necessary for spray and climbing roses. This is due to their large green mass.

Watering should be done in the evening, when the moisture does not evaporate so quickly, and the sun's rays do not burn the leaves.

On cold days (closer to autumn), you need to water the rose less. Dampness and cold can lead to fungal diseases. But it should be noted that roses cannot be completely without watering even in the autumn period - the roots in winter should go strong, and not dry.

In order for the plant to give huge hats of flowers, it needs strength. This requires supplements.

It is believed that you need to feed 7 times per season:

1. The first top dressing is done immediately after the ground thaws (mid-April). Ammonium nitrate is introduced (30-40g per 1 sq.m).
2. 2 weeks after the first, feeding is repeated.
3. When setting buds, it is better to feed with complex fertilizer ("Kemira"), 30-40 g per 1 meter kV.
4. Before flowering, feed with mullein infusion, prepared according to the scheme: mullein is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10, infused for 4-7 days and again diluted 1:10.
5. After the first wave of roses bloom (mid-July) - a complete complex fertilizer.
6. Two top dressings at the end of August and mid-September - with potassium, for better ripening of shoots and resistance to diseases.

In no case should you fertilize roses with fresh manure! The roots of the plant will simply burn. Weakly rotted manure is also not recommended.

Bush formation

After planting, the bush will take root, and increased growth of shoots begins. However, not all branches grow equally, there are some that stick out more than others. In order for the crown to maintain its neat appearance, these branches need to be pinched. Such pinching not only stimulates the formation of new shoots, but also has a beneficial effect on the development of the root system. Therefore, it is recommended to pinch not only young bushes, but also old, weakened ones.

In order for the bush not to be too thick, summer pruning is done. With such pruning, diseased shoots, old, dried up, are removed. Too thick, shoots can also be removed. Roses do not like thickening.

It often happens that new shoots begin to form below the graft. Such shoots must be removed. This is a wild. Such shoots will not bloom, but will become an additional burden for the plant.

Preparing for winter

In order for roses to winter safely, they need to be prepared for this.

You need to cover the roses when the temperature is -5. Otherwise, sheltered roses may swell.

Before shelter, shoots of roses are cut off.

In order for the wintering to be successful, the base of the bush is covered with humus or peat, and the tops of the shoots are bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches. After the snow falls, the shoots will not be able to freeze.

Experienced flower growers believe that it is not as important to cover roses for the winter as to open them in early spring.

Roses are quite strong plants and can withstand light frosts. In some areas, they can even spend the winter without shelter (if there is enough snow and the frosts are not strong). But in the spring, roses often die from overheating or from uneven thawing of the soil.

If the covered base of the bush (with which the roses have been insulated since autumn) is not dug up in time, the plant will overheat and soak. Rose will die.

However, this situation often happens - the bush was freed from covering material, green leaves went, and the rose suddenly withered and died. This comes from the fact that the first rays awaken the buds, they grow, and the leaves unfold. But the earth has not yet thawed, the root system cannot fully work - it is in ice, and the plant does not receive nutrition. It dies.

In order to prevent this from happening, you need to do this: as soon as the top layer of soil thaws, it is necessary to shovel the compost from the center of the bush, level the soil and cover the entire plant with covering material. Under this material, the temperature will be higher than without shelter, the earth will thaw faster. At the same time, bright sunlight will not be able to heat the bush with the same force through the covering material, which means that the buds wake up longer, the leaves will not appear, the plant will wake up evenly.

Diseases and pests

In order for a rose to be strong and healthy, it is necessary to protect it from pests.

The main enemies of this plant are aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, and caterpillars.

To combat them, there are many drugs on sale, if you regularly carry out preventive spraying of the bushes, the rose will not be disturbed by uninvited guests.

Spraying is carried out in dry weather. If after such an operation it rained, it is better to spray again.

Spraying should take place in the morning or evening so that the solution does not burn the leaves of the plant.

There are also various diseases of roses. These are gray rot, rust, cytosporosis, fungal diseases. For their treatment, you should use special drugs. However, if you properly care for your plant, diseases can be avoided.

After all that has been written, it seems that growing a rose is a difficult task. But the rules described here apply to any plant. Everyone needs care and attention, and the rose is no exception. Performing these simple activities will give beautiful strong and healthy plants that will delight you with lush flowering for many years.

We continue the conversation about the rose - about this magical creation of nature.

From previous articles, we have learned what to be guided by when choosing for your garden and how to choose.

Now another concern has come to the fore - the right one.

It's time for our beauty to grow up and start living in the garden, delighting her owner with the gentle fragrance.

But this will be on condition that the owner knows how to plant roses correctly and skillfully approaches this responsible mission.

After all, it is one of the most important events on which the fate of the rose bush depends.

When is the best time to plant

Roses can be planted in two periods: in spring and autumn. In the conditions of the middle Russian zone, it is more reliable (according to experts) to land in the spring.

But on condition that the soil warms up to + 10-12 ° C and before the start of bud break.

As a rule, this is the middle of April - the second decade of May.

• Root-bearing seedlings are ideally best taken in containers. Plant them only in the spring by transshipment of an earthen coma. For many varieties of roses, only spring planting is acceptable (ask about this nuance when buying shoots).

But planting roses in the spring has its drawbacks. Such roses may lag behind in growth (compared to autumn seedlings). This delay is about two weeks.

Also, such queens are more capricious and require more supervision and care.

Autumn planting of roses is best planned for mid-September-mid-October.

If the dates of the event are shifted, the roses will not have time to get stronger before the first frost. It is very important that the buds of plants have not yet begun to develop.

• 10-12 days after the autumn planting, roses form small young roots, which manage to gain strength before frost and feel great in a dry shelter until spring. In the spring, young plants very quickly begin to form a strong, healthy bush.

If you do not have time to plant in the fall and do not want the seedlings to disappear, you can try to save them until spring by digging.

To do this, shorten the stems and cut the roots to 30 cm. In this case, a callus (corn that appears at the site of the wound) forms on the roots. From the callus in the spring, healthy roots will develop.

Planting roses - choosing a place

The rose loves warmth and sunshine (some of its varieties do well in shady places), does not tolerate drafts and at the same time respects fresh air.

The ideal place for planting roses is a well-lit area (but without the midday rays of the sun falling on it), sheltered from the northern cold winds.

It is best to take a look at a small slope oriented to the south. The optimal level of occurrence of preferred groundwater is at least 1.5-2 m.

• You can not plant roses in low-lying areas (melt water stagnates there, and cold air accumulates). Also, do not plant young bushes in a place where roses have already grown. If this cannot be done, then replace the soil layer with half a meter of depth.

Designer talking to you

How to plant roses? Traditionally, we all try to plant beautiful plants closer to home.

This is not a bad idea, as the house will serve as a shelter from the wind and hot sun, and at the same time provide a great backdrop for beautiful flowers.

Here you need to apply knowledge of color (harmonious combination of colors).

• A light-colored building or fence will effectively emphasize roses with rich, bright flowers. And if the wall of the house is dark, then it is better to use roses in light, pastel or white colors.

But planting roses should not take place too close to the house - it will be difficult for you to care for the plants, and a close landing can harm the building. The optimal distance is 40-50 cm from the wall (fence).

• Multi-flowered varieties of roses that bloom all summer are best planted in a conspicuous place (near gazebos, benches, recreation areas, etc.).
• Floribunda looks very impressive along the edge of lawns (it is better not to plant roses in the middle of the lawn, since lawn care has a different specificity). Also, these species are good for creating hedges.
• Tea and tea hybrid species are ideal for flower beds (it is better to make them small in size from 3-5 bushes of the same variety).
• Climbing varieties. Planting rose seedlings of climbing species will give an amazing look to the gazebo, veranda, any arch, fence, wall of the house. Place for these varieties can be given along the edges of the lawns.
• Wild roses will decorate the border of the site and will be very useful there: thorny shoots will protect the territory from the penetration of uninvited animals and additionally attract birds that are very fond of the fruits of a wild shrub.

If your plans are to arrange dense plantings of roses, then Crocuses, Primulas, Aubrieta, Rezuha, Violet, Ageratum and Alpine Phlox will be ideal neighbors for rose bushes.

For admiring roses up close, hybrid tea varieties are suitable, and to create bright, attractive spots from afar, use Floribunda.

Ideal soil

Roses love fertile, moisture- and breathable loams with an acidic pH of 5.5-6.5.

If the earth is too oxidized, it must be limed. But do not get carried away - on alkaline soil, roses can develop leaf chlorosis.

• You can determine the acidity of the soil using litmus paper. Mix some soil with water and dip litmus into it. If the soil is acidic, the paper will turn red, if the soil is alkaline, it will turn blue.

Light sandy and heavy clay soils are not suitable for beauties. Such soils can be adjusted: add sand (3 parts), sod, humus and compost (1 part each) to loamy soil.

In clayey - coarse sand (6 parts), leafy, soddy soil, compost and humus (1 part each).

In sandstones - soddy soil and finely crushed clay (2 parts each), compost or humus (1 part).

The land must be checked and prepared in advance (for spring planting of roses from autumn, for autumn 30-35 days before planting seedlings).

This period is enough for the soil components to mix well and the earth to settle.

The soil must be carefully dug up to a depth of 60 cm.

Preparing holes for planting

In a place intended for planting rose bushes, we dig holes with dimensions of 60x60 cm, a depth of 70 cm. We put the upper part of the earth (fertile layer) on the edge of the holes.

At the bottom of each hole we lay a drainage layer of small pebbles, broken bricks and gravel.

On top of the drainage, we fill up a layer of 40 cm of a previously prepared mixture of earth and fertilizers, and sprinkle the pits on top with a fertile layer.

Well mix:

• Garden soil 2 buckets.
• Bone meal 2 cups.
• Superphosphate 1-2 handfuls.
• Dolomite flour 1-2 cups.
• Powdered clay 1 bucket.
• Humus, peat, fine sand 1 bucket each.

We prepare pits for planting roses 10-14 days before the appearance of seedlings there. The earth at this time will have time to settle, otherwise the rosette may go deep into the ground.

The distance between the pits for plants depends on the type of rose and the purpose of the planting itself:

• Between bush: 150-300 cm.
• Low and sprawling: 40-60 cm.
• Curly (low growing: 200 cm, strong growing: 300-500 cm).
• Flower beds (weakly growing: 30-40 cm, strongly growing: 40-60 cm).
• Ground-blooded creeping (weakly growing: 40-60 cm, strongly growing: 100 cm).

Preparing young seedlings

◊ Escape. We need to cut off all damaged and dried shoots under the first bud.

Healthy shoots must also be cut, but (for stronger seedlings, 5 buds are left, for seedlings of medium strength and quality, 3 buds, with a weakened state of the seedling, the shoots must be shortened almost to their entire length, leaving 3 mm at the base).

When planting roses in spring, we save:

• Floribunda: 3-4 buds.
• Tea-hybrid species: 2-3 buds.
• Undersized polyanthus: 2-3 buds.
• Climbing groups Rambler: shoots are cut to 35 cm.
• Tall: you can shorten the shoots by 10-15 cm for early flowering.
• Miniature and park varieties are not pruned, the shoots only need to be slightly refreshed (cut the tops).

◊ Roots. We examine the roots: cut off the rumpled ones, dive good ones 1-2 cm from the tip. Then we lower the roots into a solution of water and Kornevin, holding them there for several hours.

Before planting roses, the roots of the plant are cut to 20-25 cm, damaged ones are removed before healthy tissue begins.

The day before planting, the roses are placed for 11-12 hours in a container with water. Then we moisten the roots with a mixture of clay and mullein (proportion 3x1), adding a heteroauxin tablet to a bucket of solution (pre-dissolve the tablet in water).

Packaging Features

Rose seedlings can be found in completely different packages. Features of the form in which the young rose was sold must be taken into account when preparing the plant for planting:

♦ Polyethylene cylinders. Baltic growers love to pack rose seedlings in plastic tubes without a bottom.

In this package, the plants are from the very moment of vaccination, so they can be easily planted without destroying the earth coma. But before planting, carefully inspect the roots.

• If the roots are light, directed outward, the plant can be planted immediately. And if there are few light roots, they are tangled - in this case, carefully straighten the roots, cut off the dry ones. It is imperative to ensure that the roots are directed outward down. If seedlings in cylinders need to be stored, store them in a pot, having previously released from packaging.

♦ Seedlings grown on light peat in greenhouses. Based on the experience of gardeners, such seedlings need to be planted, breaking the earthen clod (by the way, contrary to many literary indications).

As a rule, the pots of such seedlings are small, and the roots tightly entangle the ground, forming a kind of "felt". The roots cannot get out of such a coma on their own, roses do not take root in a new place for a long time and often die.

• Be sure to remove the seedling from the pot before planting and soak in water so that all the air comes out of the earthy coma. Then, with a sharp knife, remove the outer layer of roots. Wash the roots of the seedling from the soil, but do not touch them at the base. Then straighten the roots and plant a rose.

♦ Mesh packaging. The manufacturer says that seedlings in a mesh container can be planted directly in it. But in the experience of gardeners, planting roses in a net very often gives poor results. Seedlings take root poorly.

Therefore, try to partially break the integrity of the mesh before planting and straighten the surface roots (by cutting off rotten or dry ones).

Planting roses

When planting seedlings, carefully monitor the grafting site (this is the part of the root from where the shoots begin to grow). The graft should be 3-5 cm below the ground surface.

Thus, the rose will receive protection from the heat of the sun and the winter cold. And additional shoots will not develop from the vaccination - they inhibit the growth and development of the main ones.

If the soil shrinks, sprinkle the soil mixture so that holes do not form, otherwise the roots may begin to rot from excess moisture.

Drop off methods. There are two methods of planting roses that have proven themselves well:

◊ Dry way. This method is suitable for areas with high humidity. At the bottom of the prepared hole we make a small earthen roller - on it we will lay out the roots of the flower.

It is better to plant a rose together. One holds the bush and carefully places it in the hole. The second straightens the roots and carefully fills them with soil mixture, compacting the plant with his hands.

Then the rose bush is abundantly watered with water (10 liters of water for each bush). After 2-3 days, the soil is loosened and spud up to a height of up to 10 cm (to the level of shoot cuts).

If this is not done, the rose shoots may dry out (especially in hot weather).

• Loss of moisture often leads to the death of the rose. To avoid this, create an additional shelter for your beauty in the form of mounds of wet moss or damp sawdust. If these mounds are too compacted, loosen them slightly.

If your rose has taken root, after 10-15 days it will have the first young shoots. As soon as you notice them, the plant can be unraveled. This procedure is best done on cloudy days.

◊ Wet way. This planting of roses is best suited for regions where the climate is dry. A bucket of water is poured into the prepared pit (dissolve a heteroauxin tablet in it in advance, you can also add a solution of Sodium Humate the color of strong tea).

One person can handle this operation. With one hand, lower the seedling directly into the water, with the other, fill the hole with a water-soil mixture.

A mixture of earth and water perfectly fills the entire space between the roots without the formation of voids.

When planting, you need to periodically shake the bush and carefully compact the ground. Watering is not needed.

If the soil sags, the next day raise the seedling a little, add earth and spud it by 10-15 cm. After planting, shade the young rose for 10-12 days.

The nuances of planting seedlings of various types

♦ Parking. To plant roses of this type of pit, you need to make a little more: 90x90 cm, 70 cm deep. It is important that voids do not form in the row of plantings, if this happens, fill the empty spaces with annual flowers.

The density of planting for park roses is also important so that the plants do not give a lot of root shoots, which then have to be removed.

♦ Teahouses and Floribunda. For these beauties, the best planting time is spring. For tea roses, you will need support for climbing shoots.

Pits for plants of these species can be made a little smaller: 50x50 cm with a distance of about 50 cm.

♦ Hybrid Tea. Of all types of roses, hybrid tea are the most picky about heat, so you need to plant such roses in May (subject to the onset of stable warm weather).

The landing method for her is better suited "wet". Do not let these roses bloom for a couple of weeks (cut off the first 4-6 buds for this).

♦ Climbing. Roses of these species can be planted in spring and autumn. When planting, immerse the grafting site in the ground a little deeper than usual (10-12 cm).

This species needs support (the distance between the support and the stem of the rose is no more than 50 cm) and shelter for the winter.

Before planting roses, the lashes must be cut to a height of 30-35 cm and the roots shortened.

When planting, climbing roses tilt slightly towards the support, and the roots are directed away from the support.

♦ Ground blood. For such roses, the complete absence of weeds in their area is very important. It is best to sprinkle the earth after getting rid of weeds with bark or sawdust.

After all, the root system of groundbloods covers the entire earth with very flexible and prickly shoots.

Well, dear readers, one of the most difficult and important stages has been completed. Our roses are planted in the garden.

The further fate of gentle beauties will depend entirely on your attention and competent care. About and care for our rose garden, as well as about roses, about possible ones - we will talk in the next article.

See you soon, dear readers!

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and care in the open field for this marvelous flower will be discussed in stages in this article. Proper planting is the key to abundant and long flowering. How to care for climbing roses? Summer residents and gardeners appreciate the weaving variety of roses. They know that with the help of climbing roses you can turn even the most modest area into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing roses, description

Shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly entwined with its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired the flower arches of amazing beauty more than once. Flower columns, pyramids, trellises, well-disguised old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with its presence by a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, however, in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color scheme of this type of rose is as diverse as that of their park or ground cover relatives. Bud sizes can be from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, varieties of climbing roses bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but all of them can be divided into groups:

• Semi-climbing, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both once flowering species and re-flowering.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of some varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that can be heard at a distance, some are fragrant slightly audibly, subtly and gently.

How to plant a climbing rose, choosing a place

This culture will thrive in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for her, as well as sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of rose. If your site is dominated by soil unsuitable for climbing roses, then be sure to dilute it with suitable soil. Thus, sand is introduced into the clay soil, and clay into the sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition, humus or humus, as well as phosphorus additives, should be added.

All procedures for adapting the land should be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts have not grown before. If it doesn’t work out otherwise, then before planting, you need to replace the top layer of the earth (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, climbing roses should be planted on a slight hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that the groundwater at the chosen place does not pass close to the top layer of soil.

If you decide to “drape” part of the wall of the house with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, climbing roses are planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cooling, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the advent of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer, the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in spring, then by this time it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / the first weeks of May are the most optimal times for spring planting.

Planting a climbing rose when spring or fall is best

I will make a reservation right away that the rules for planting seedlings in spring are not much different from autumn ones. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in spring will be a little behind in development, will require you to pay more attention to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

All the stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn.

• So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm.
• Dig a large hole for the roots to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm.
• If you plant several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root neck is also deepened by 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season.
• The roots are gently straightened, covered with soil, lightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are pointing down and not bent up!
• Planting a climbing rose in the spring involves introducing nutritious soil into the hole. Approximately 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will please your rose.
• After planting, the soil is slightly trampled down and watered abundantly.
• It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, Phosphobacterin, to the water for this first watering. Phytohormone "Heteroauxin" is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It's up to you to do it or not to do it, if the weather conditions of your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and mulch the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped tree bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today in flower shops you can buy climbing rose seedlings with an open or closed root system.

Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such an escape must be mature (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the winter. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Varieties of climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you will not be able to immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying.

The elongation of the shoots and their light shade signal improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in low light. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter.

Close attention should also be paid to the grafting sites; a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the “junction” that promotes fusion. If the vaccination site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.

Planting a climbing rose from the store in spring, steps:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen clod, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, put them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, we remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with powdered charcoal or activated charcoal.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and the root system carefully examined. You can first add the Kornevin stimulator to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, gently straighten the roots if possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it) has already been described a little higher. Water the rose well.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When refilling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun shines too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or light-colored cloth - this way it is guaranteed not to burn. This protective coating can be left for 5-7 days.

Climbing roses, care and cultivation

In heat and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully rake the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn also open after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-solar day, so that subsequently the plant does not experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains buried in the soil by about 10 cm.

During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the appearance of the buds, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per bush will be enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. Both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful for roses, so follow the golden mean in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilizer is an important step in caring for a climbing rose, because this species is quite picky about top dressing. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should alternate with complex fertilizers, they are recommended to be applied every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example - "Agricola-Rosa" (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organics - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then pour the plant under the root with the resulting composition. From about the second week of July, you can start slowly making phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the upcoming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.

Climbing rose care in the first year of planting

How does it differ from the standard requirements? From competent care in the first year of a plant's life depends on its further development and flowering splendor. When new shoots appear, the soil from the bushes is removed (the one that was used for hilling). If there are sunny days, then at first light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days after the removal of the hilling soil, you can proceed to the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened above the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes “looking” inside the bush are to be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further proper formation of the shrub.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the advent of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is a climbing rose pruned in autumn for the winter? If other types of roses can simply be spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the thermal insulation methods, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you will have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bunch, rewind with twine and gently tilt to the ground. With the help of metal staples (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed on the ground, and then covered with appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but is securely wrapped with protective material right on it. The base of the bush is spudded in the manner described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care measure should be given special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long flowering, and has a positive effect on the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant's life, pruning is done at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They bloom around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at which time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (we choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal processes. If these processes are not present, then about 40 cm from the base should be measured from the old branches, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of the replacement root branches.

The remaining (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short flower stalks are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (also measured from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to cut a climbing rose in spring? You should pick up a pruner when buds begin to swell on the branches from below (the last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then during night frosts the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss the pruning time, then the plant will throw all its forces into the formation of new branches and foliage, and flowering will be poor.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also at this time, all diseased, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when buds swell on the “living” branches.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unfortunate place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplantation. The best time for this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, as the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances so require, transplanting a rose in a climbing spring to another place is also possible. As soon as the earth thaws after winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug (moving in a circular fashion), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, even if the pit is deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain safe and sound.

When transplanting, the same rules are observed as with standard planting - the roots straighten out and go down, the free space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and generously watered.

After 3-4 days, you should add earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with transplanting roses - their belonging to the groups of climbers and ramblers. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Varieties of climbing climber roses are called climbers, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half the entire length!

Ramblers are precisely climbing roses with flexible and soft whip shoots, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambler roses are characterized by active growth; when transplanted, they cut off all shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must pinch the tops - this technique speeds up the lignification of the branches.

How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, cuttings, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is cuttings. Seed propagation is possible only if the seed is purchased from the appropriate store. As you know, self-collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or garden do not carry varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Growing climbing roses from seeds

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of growing the plant. After we remove the seeds from the solution, lay them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again impregnated with hydrogen peroxide, cover with a similar cotton layer on top, which is also impregnated with peroxide.

The resulting "sandwich" is placed in a plastic bag and hidden in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also impregnated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be carefully transferred to peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate earth mixture. Seedling cassettes are also suitable.

Young shoots should be watered as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop properly, they need to provide daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the advent of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

This is the easiest way to breed, almost always giving a 100% positive result. For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches are suitable for you, which are taken from the rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.

The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the location of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney. The upper cut (smooth) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Next, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. A stalk is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, it is deepened by about 1-2 cm, covered with a glass jar on top and cleaned in a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the stalk (without removing the banks) and make sure that it does not fall into direct sunlight.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we select the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make a small groove bed about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After we fill the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the cuttings can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

Propagation of roses by grafting (budding) on ​​wild rose

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a wild rose bush - this technique is quite often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the wild rose should be generously watered.

Right on the root neck of the shrub, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter “T”, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. In this kind of "pocket" is placed a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we firmly press the eye to the neck of the rootstock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is spudded, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the grafting site (this is the minimum). After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly loosened, and with the advent of a new spring, it is removed for good.

Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Empirically, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.

Climbing rose - diseases and pests

At the initial stage, aphids can be removed from the branches by hand, after putting on garden gloves, but as soon as they feel like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you deal with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called folk methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, after which remove all affected fragments - it should help.

The spider mite loves heat and drought, a silvery coating on the foliage is a sign of the presence of an intruder. Old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood decoction give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the best means of protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes a double treatment of roses with this preparation is enough for the tick to give up its positions. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.

According to the reviews of experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works great against the rose sawfly. Preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, extending not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you about the spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, coniothyrium (bark burn).

There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously minimizes the risk of disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of three percent copper sulphate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same copper sulphate are the most frequently recommended preventive measures.

Conyothyrium infestation can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the moment the kidneys awaken, the plant can be treated with 3% iron sulphate, the ground around the bush must also be irrigated. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also participate in the case, while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - removing the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution of iron sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such sprays are often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is to make your favorite flowers delight your eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering. It is simply unrealistic to mention all winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully justifies its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and abundantly. Re-blooming is a distinctive feature of this rose, it grows quite quickly and in the shortest possible time can braid the arch or wall of the building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weakly expressed.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

Climbing rose "Lavinia"

It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a rich pink hue, undemanding to care, re-blooming, aroma with light notes of nutmeg. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most diseases of roses, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

Variety "Polka"

It is characterized by undulating flowering, about five waves per summer. The buds are terry, apricot hue, gradually turning into a cream color. Very fond of sunlit places, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, the aroma is weak.

Photo of a climbing rose of the Polka variety:

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious terry rose with large (12 cm in diameter) deep red flowers. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in partial shade without problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.

Variety "Don Juan", photo:

Variety "Flamentants"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive climbing representatives of red. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), terry, multi-petal. It has increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very gentle, but not very pronounced.

Photo of Flamentanz roses:

Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows up to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is re-blooming, disease resistance is average, black spot and ashtray should be avoided.

Variety "Handel", photo:

Variety "Bobby James"

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. It can reach 8 m in height, disease resistant, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly reminiscent of cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma, during flowering the branches are simply covered with buds, so that foliage is almost invisible behind them. The buds themselves have the peculiarity of slowly opening for about 10-12 days. Spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo rose variety "Bobby James":

Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A re-blooming variety that blooms slowly, to the delight of gardeners. Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will decorate the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:

Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy re-blooming climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. Blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the Parade variety, photo:

Climbing rose "Schwanensee"

Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwanensee blooms until frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate, refined aroma. The variety is hardy, re-blooming, resistant to precipitation. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwanensee", photo:

Sort "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when open. A multi-petalled variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose variety "Casino", photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require you to spend time and effort, but, you see, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such “sacrifices”. Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of residence for the rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with strong roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide her with a reliable support, the types of which I will tell you in the next article.

Let a climbing rose be sure to settle in your area. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of propagation and replanting, a rough idea of ​​​​individual varieties - you now know all this and can put my advice into practice.

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