Stove heating of a private house is the usual and most common way to heat small detached houses. In certain cases, a stove is the only possible way to organize heat in a house. A masonry stove, and a potbelly stove, in addition to its main function of heating, can also play the role of a decorative composition in the interior.

Advantages of the stove heating method

Let's describe the positive aspects of arranging the stove in the house:

• relatively low costs for laying and finishing the stove;
• the possibility of a stove design combined with a fireplace;
• open live fire creates a special atmosphere in a heated room;
• on the territory of our country, firewood is not yet a scarce fuel.

And now about the negative aspects of the operation of the furnace

• A “serious” Russian-type stove requires a significant area for itself - the thick walls of such a heating “device” accumulate heat in themselves, maintaining a comfortable temperature in the rooms of the house even after the flame has died out;
• a long heating period of a massive furnace or its inertia, which is subsequently compensated for by prolonged cooling;
• the efficiency of the furnace is only 25% - heat losses are maximum through the chimney;
• the stove does not heat the air - it initially heats its walls, and already the walls heat the air.

Proper placement of the furnace and the choice of its design

The optimally thought-out placement of the stove in the house must meet this requirement - as many rooms as possible should be in contact with it. The source of heat in such a furnace is fire and the flow of hot combustion products in complex chimney channels.

Stove heating of a private house is possible if there are no more than 2 floors.

It is desirable to bring the firebox of the furnace into the corridor or kitchen. And the warm surfaces of the stove in the rooms. When designing a furnace, it should be taken into account that 1 m2 of its surface can heat up to 35 m2 of a room.

When planning the premises, it is also necessary to take into account the location of the furniture - the walls of the “mirror” stove should not be covered with furniture or other partitions. A large wall of the stove should open into a large room.

It is necessary to choose the type of furnace in relation to its heat transfer and functional features. If you need a hob or oven, you should think about the location of the stove in the kitchen and in the room adjacent to it. A long and narrow stove, with a firebox leading into the corridor, is ideal for heating two large adjoining rooms.

Now in thematic publications and on the Internet, you can easily find step-by-step instructions for laying furnaces of various types.

How to make a foundation for the oven?

The choice of the type of furnace will allow you to determine the size and depth of the foundation for the furnace. This "construction" object is erected immediately after pouring the main foundation of the house.

Attention! The furnace foundation is not tied to the main foundation of the house in order to avoid damage due to different settlements of the walls and furnace.

The foundation for a brick oven is poured into a monolithic reinforced concrete. Its size should exceed the overall dimensions of the future furnace by 10-15 cm on each side. The depth of the foundation is from 0.5 m to 1 m. With loose soil and nearby groundwater, the foundation is not deepened, but its area is increased.

If the house is located on a solid monolithic foundation, then the stove is built on a pillow additionally erected on it to the floor level.

An iron furnace does not require a powerful foundation for itself.

The choice of materials for the furnace

For long-term functioning of the furnace, it is necessary to build it from high-quality bricks.

Normally burnt red brick is used for the "body" of the furnace. Such a brick, when tapped on it, gives off a metallic sound, and when it falls, it breaks (if it breaks) into large pieces. It is convenient for laying, as it easily lends itself to proper splitting.

The hottest parts of the furnace: the firebox and the chimney (near the firebox) must be made of refractory bricks.

A mortar based on clay and sand should not be inferior in its resistance to brick material, while at the same time ensuring a reliable connection of bricks to each other.

In these matters, it is better to consult with specialists in your area, as clay is different. But approximately you will need 2-2.5 buckets of clay for 1-1.5 buckets of sand for laying 100 pieces. bricks. The solution is brought to the consistency of thick sour cream. The strength of the masonry can be increased by adding Portland cement (up to 0.5 liters per bucket) or table salt (150 g per bucket) to the solution. For laying pipes and foundations, a mortar can be used to which lime "dough" is added.

We increase the efficiency of the furnace

The efficiency of the furnace can be increased by installing an additional water heat exchanger in it and creating a water heating system in the rest of the house. This is especially true in the presence of rooms that are not in contact with the walls of the furnace.

Furnace heating with a water circuit provides a more even distribution of heat and improves the efficiency of the entire heating system at home. In fact, building a furnace with a water heat exchanger, we get a kind of solid fuel water boiler, which not only warms up the coolant, but also gives off heat to the room through its walls.

When choosing or manufacturing a heat exchanger, special attention should be paid to its quality and metal thickness. The use of thin (up to 5 mm) metal threatens with a forced disassembly of the furnace in a few years due to a burned-out heat exchanger.

Let's sum up a little

Stove heating of a private house is an effective way of heating in private houses, with a properly designed and built stove.

The low cost of firewood allows you to save on heating. The cost of 4-6 "cubes" of chopped firewood in our country ranges from 6-7 thousand rubles. And this firewood should be enough for half a year of the heating period for an average private house. By ordering non-chopped firewood, you can save even more.

At the same time, centralized heating costs between 3-3.5 thousand rubles for a comfortable 3-room apartment.

Stove heating is autonomous, although it requires the daily increased attention of the owners.

The times when stove heating was the only means of heating the house and cooking have already passed. Now many people prefer to heat their homes with gas or electric boilers, as they free the owner from the need to take care of the preparation of fuel for the stove. This is convenient, but there are people who cannot imagine a private house without a stove. She will always help to heat the room, cook food, and she is not afraid of power or gas outages.

A properly made stand and an appropriate hood will allow you to put the stove even in the living room of a wooden house, where the warmth of the hearth will warm the whole family more than once Source smokenfire.com

Furnace heating is still relevant

Despite the fact that now there are many ways to heat your home, a home heating stove does not lose its relevance. Beautifully laid out in brick, lined with stone or decorative tiles, the stove perfectly complements the interior of the house. A cast-iron stove or fireplace also fits perfectly into the overall interior. Many do not even imagine their home without a good Russian stove. After all, how nice it is to warm yourself near the stove in winter, especially since there will always be a place where you can dry your shoes and clothes. Therefore, stoves have always been popular and will remain so for many years to come.

Important Requirements to which furnace heating corresponds:

fire safety;

low consumption of fuel resources;

duration of fuel burning;

ease of maintenance;

heats up very quickly and at the same time retains heat for a long time and gives it to the room.

Modern technologies penetrate into all industries - certain changes have also affected the furnace business. Modern furnaces can be equipped in such a way that they can serve as a heating tank, a generator of electricity from fuel combustion. Many are designed in such a way that one bookmark of firewood is enough to keep burning for a long time.

Stove heating of a private house

There are a wide variety of oven options. Here are just a few of them:

cast iron stoves for heating;

cast iron stoves for heating and cooking;

cast iron stoves according to the design of the fireplace;

brick kilns "Swede";

brick ovens for heating and cooking;

Russian ovens;

brick fireplace stoves;

brick ovens "Dutch".

All of these types have their advantages and disadvantages. Each stove for heating the house is good in its own way. Below is an example of a classic brick oven.

A neatly made stove will perfectly complement the interior of the house Source zen.yandex.ru

Advantages of the stove heating method

In order to understand the need to install a stove for heating a private house, you need to know a number of its advantages:

absolute autonomy operation and independence from external factors such as water, gas or electricity shutdowns;

brickwork is capable of keep the room warm for a long time, even if the fire has already gone out in the furnace;

simultaneously with room heating, the stove can be use for cooking;

economy in terms of fuel purchases and the need to pay bills for the general supply of gas, electricity and water, the availability of firewood, compared to peat or coal;

absence overheated and overdried air;

just a pleasant atmosphere in the house;

Ease of operation: no need for high-tech electronic equipment.

The advantage of a brick oven is that it can be designed according to your wishes and preferences. Source pinterest.com

Disadvantages of furnace heating

Along with the advantages of the furnace, they also have negative qualities.

Enough long heating time. This is due to the fact that bricks take a long time to gain heat.

Lost some usable space, since the larger the house, the larger the stove will have to be installed.

Big weight. If the furnace is very large, then you will have to build a separate foundation for it.

Uneven heating all rooms, that is, the farther the room is from the stove, the more time it will take to heat it, warm air will reach it last.

What is considered when choosing

Choosing which oven will be installed is not so simple. Furnaces are brick and metal. Cast iron is usually used as the metal: it holds heat the longest.

When choosing the dimensions of the furnace, its shape, material, several factors should be taken into account:

Number of heated rooms. For one or two rooms, a small metal stove is sufficient. For larger houses with more rooms, a brick oven should be installed. It can be supplemented with a water circuit that stretches through all the rooms. This option allows you to increase the efficiency of the stove, as well as more quickly and efficiently heat all rooms.

Room dimensions. It is logical to assume that a large brick stove will simply take up the entire space of a small room.

The type of fuel on which the future furnace will operate. It can be gas, firewood, peat, coal. Combined devices are often used, but they have their own design and this must be taken into account.

In the old days, stoves were installed in the center of the house. They went out on each side into all the rooms, heating each of them. Massive furnaces cool down for a very long time, therefore, after kindling, you can be sure that all rooms will be heated. During installation, you will need to additionally cut a hole in the roof for the pipe to exit. In general, laying a place for the stove should be at the stage of building a house. A well-chosen place is the key to the effective use of the functionality of the oven, because it can not only heat, but also cook.

When designing a house, you can lay the location of the furnace and design a pipeline for heating distant rooms and heating water. Source luchtepla.ru

Even when choosing a stove for a country house, you will have to consider the following points:

Where will the stove be installed?

what size will it be?

how the chimney will exit: through the wall or through the roof;

if the oven is brick, then you will have to cut through the floor and prepare an additional foundation for it;

ensure fire safety measures;

construction companies that offer home insulation services

Schemes and designs of stove heating in the house

Stove heating of a private house is divided into several types according to the design of the furnace:

Straight-through. Basically, such furnaces are made of brick. The principle of their operation is to pass the air flow through the blower, then through the grate, supporting the combustion of the fuel, and then out through the pipe, already in the form of smoke. The big drawback of this design is the very low efficiency: a significant part of the heat, in the literal sense, simply flies out into the pipe. Once-through furnaces are equipped with special valves that close when the fuel burns out and stops producing carbon monoxide. This allows you to keep the heat for a long time. Also, to increase the efficiency during the assembly of the furnace, broken glass can be placed in it, which keeps the temperature for a very long time.

Drier. The main feature of such furnaces is a system of channels through which smoke moves and evenly heats the entire furnace. Thanks to this solution, the whole structure heats up faster and retains heat well. The heating rate depends directly on the length of the channels and their number.

Kolpakovaya. The principle of operation is based on the movement of flow gases in a natural way. First, they fill the cap, where they cool down and then independently exit through a special lid. This allows you to evenly and quickly heat the stove, which then retains heat for a long time, heating the room. Unlike the first two options, this design is easy to maintain. Soot can be easily removed from the hood through a special hole, while in the first two cases it will be necessary to clean the chimneys and the pipe, which is not very convenient.

Water circuit. This is not a firebox design, but a fairly common heating circuit element that can be installed on any stove. It is only necessary to add a heating tank to the firebox or a coil on the pipe.

Types of furnace equipment

Furnace equipment refers to the structural elements that are used in the installation and operation of the stove. In cast-iron stoves, they are already supplied from the manufacturer, but when an additional water circuit is connected to them, you will have to buy additional elements for the stove:

Pipes. It can be plastic or metal pipes. Preference is always given to metal ones, as they are more reliable, but plastic ones are cheaper. The disadvantage of plastic pipes is the possibility of their melting at the joints with metal. Metal ones do not have such a disadvantage.

Membrane (expansion) tank. It is necessary to maintain constant pressure in the pipes. When heated, the water begins to expand and exit into this tank, so that the pipes do not collapse from excess pressure. When cooling, excess water from the tank begins to gradually flow back into the pipes.

An expansion tank is indispensable for any method of heating a house. Source koffkindom.ru

Radiators. Usually they are installed directly under the windows. They increase the heat transfer of the water circuit.

Water pump. It is required for the circulation of water in the circuit. Its installation contributes to the rapid heating of the room, since the heated water will quickly enter the radiators and heat the room. Without a pump, the movement of water through the pipes is carried out by gravity, but for this it is necessary to make special slopes, calculate the difference in heights and the difference in temperatures of the first circuit with heated water and the second with cooled water - it is also called the return.

heat exchanger. It is installed in the furnace furnace, above it, or on the chimney. All options have their advantages and disadvantages. This is a kind of boiler in which water will subsequently be heated. For chimneys, the heating tank is made in the form of a coil, for a firebox it can have an arbitrary shape, but it is very important that it has a sufficient area of ​​​​contact with the furnace flame.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of installing stoves and fireplaces. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Wood stoves for heating a private house

Wood stoves have long been the most popular heating device, as wood is often the most affordable source of heat.

There are several types of ovens:

with water circuit;

simultaneously cooking and heating;

prolonged burning.

The choice of wood stoves can be done from the simplest in design to the more complex. Here are options for some of them:

"bourgeois";

classic oven;

pyrolysis oven;

• wood burning boiler;

  an oven with a hob;

  stove with the possibility of long burning wood;

  Russian oven.

Video description

About the wood stove in the heating system, see the following video:

When choosing, you should, first of all, pay attention to the technical and operational characteristics:

dimensions of the furnace itself;

the presence of additional devices;

thermal capacity;

the material from which it is made.

Brick and metal are the most popular materials for building a stove. Source teplomact.ru

Choosing a wood stove for home heating

There are a lot of options and modifications of modern heating furnaces. With an increase in the number of options, there is always a problem of choice. Usually guided by the following principles:

the size of the furnace should be selected based on the dimensions of the room and the number of heated rooms;

functional purpose: cooking, heating, combined;

correct selection of furnace power.

Everyone's taste preferences are different. It is difficult to advise on this matter. It is always necessary to proceed from the functional purpose of the furnace. If the stove should just heat, then you can take it to a separate room. If you like an open fire, near which you can sit on a cold winter evening, then you should choose a design that allows installation inside the house. Such a stove will perfectly complement the interior of the room.

Video description

About the choice of a wood-burning stove, see the video:

Proper oven placement

As in the old days, building a house begins with planning the placement of the stove. There are some rules to follow:

The area of ​​the room must be more than 16 squares.

Do not install close to a stone wall, then most of the heat will be transferred to the outside of the house. And in wooden houses, this is not at all recommended for fire safety purposes.

A heavy stove will break any logs and rafters over time, so a separate foundation is needed for a brick stove.

A large stove with storage for firewood and a stove bench separating the kitchen and living room Source argo-project.ru

If the goal is to heat as many rooms as possible, then it should be installed so that the stove is part of all these rooms. It is installed in the partitions of rooms in such a way that its walls or corners fall into these rooms.

Thus, for example, stoves were installed in the old days, in many village huts. The furnace is located in the center, and the rooms along its perimeter. This is a classic stove placement option. The whole house is heated at the same time.

If the layout consists of two rooms: a common room and a kitchen, then it is more reasonable to move the main part into the room, and the hob and firebox into the kitchen.

Fire safety requirements for furnace heating at home

Before installing the stove, you should think about fire safety in advance, since the stove will heat up to a high temperature during the furnace. To avoid fire, when installing the stove, the following must be observed: security measures:

The oven must be installed some distance from the wall. Firstly, there will be no direct contact with the wall, especially if the surfaces are wooden. Stone walls will additionally cool the stove, which will affect fuel consumption. Secondly, the air in this gap will be heated, and not the wall itself;

Walls at the place of installation of the furnace should be additionally lined with non-combustible material. Sheet slate is ideal for these purposes. It conducts heat poorly and does not ignite. All walls should be sheathed in places where the future furnace will even indirectly come into contact with the wall;

Video description

Clearly about the fire safety of stove heating in the following video:

If the walls are decorated with flammable materials, then distance from them to the stove should be at least half a meter;

Be sure to put next to the firebox metal sheet or any other non-combustible material, such as the same slate. If the oven is made of brick, then an additional container can be laid out of it. This is done in case of accidental loss of coal from the furnace.

Heat-resistant tiles can be laid out around the stove as protection against fire of walls and floors. Source kakprosto.ru

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of auditing construction works. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

The choice of materials for the furnace

The main building material for stoves is brick, which is laid on clay or a special mortar that can withstand high temperatures. The bricks themselves are also used special - refractory, for laying furnaces.

There are also special facing bricks for exterior decoration. They have a curly shape and lower heat-conducting properties. Facing also helps to avoid a sharp temperature difference between the room and the brickwork, which adversely affects the brick.

The brick is chosen corpulent - it has good heat capacity and heat dissipation. The highest quality brick is used for the chimney, since the temperature differences outside the house are much greater than in the room.

Brick options for laying the stove and chimney may be different, but it is important that the material withstand the loads placed on it. Source tproekt.com

How furnace and water heating are combined

Water heating from the furnace helps to significantly increase the efficiency of the latter. With a small size, a water circuit stove is able to heat large areas.

To organize water heating, a heat exchanger is built into the furnace body, and sometimes it is built into the chimney. Further, pipes are connected to the heat exchanger, which are subsequently connected to radiators. An expansion tank and a pump are installed on the return line. A pump is not required, but it does help circulate the water in the pipes. Thanks to good circulation, the rooms begin to heat up already in the process of firing the stove. A drainage system is also installed without fail. If the stove will not be used for a long time, for example, in winter, then the water from the system must be drained so that it does not freeze in the pipes and damage them.

Video description

Clearly about water heating from a wood-burning stove in the following video:

Equipment for water furnace heating

For the water circuit you will need:

• radiators;

  water pump;

  expansion tank;

  heat exchanger;

  drain valves;

  shut-off valves;

  thermometer;

With a well-thought-out layout, stove heating can also heat a fairly large house of 2-3 floors. Source lestorg32.ru

How to make a foundation for the oven

For stoves with a low weight of up to 250 kg, a foundation is not needed at all. But for heavy brick structures it is necessary. Here you need to know that the stove is not placed on the main foundation of the house, since heat will go out through it.

The type of foundation is chosen separately in each case - depending on the foundation of the house and other factors, most often they use monolithic, block or pile.

The foundation for the stove should be laid at the stage of building a house. Therefore, its location should be determined in advance. If the stove needs to be installed in an already rebuilt house, and the floors in it are wooden, then you will have to cut through the floor and dig a pit for installing the foundation.

The base for the stove should not come into contact with the main foundation of the house and be at least 5 cm away from it. It is best to place a large massive brick stove in the center of the house. This is the most optimal solution for uniform heating of rooms.

How to heat the stove correctly

Before kindling the stove, it should be prepared - clean the firebox and ash pan so that the remains of coal and ash do not interfere with the burning of new firewood. Next, you need to put the required amount of firewood into the firebox so that there is space for air exchange. For ignition, a piece of paper is placed under the logs, which is ignited from the side of the ash pan.

Conclusion

Even despite the ubiquity of modern heating appliances, wood-burning and other solid fuel stoves remain in demand for country houses. Even if we do not take into account the practical and economic side of its use, the decorative effect of the stove in the interior is difficult to overestimate. The only difficulty that may arise if you want to equip stove heating is to find a competent stove-maker. Despite the popularity of brick kilns, there are not so many qualified craftsmen who know all the intricacies of the kiln business.

In many private houses, heating with wood and stoves remains a priority. Someone has a metal stove, someone has a brick one, but one thing unites them - this type of heating is not the most convenient. Too much attention and not enough comfort. Exit - stove heating with a water circuit.

Stove heating with a water circuit - an opportunity to combine tradition and comfort

First, let's understand the terminology. When they say "stove", most often they mean a heater made of bricks, which is heated with wood. But often a metal stove on wood or on coal is also called that. The principles of operation for brick and metal units are the same, the method of heat transfer is changing. Metallic ones have a greater convective component (most of the heat is transferred by air), brick ones are dominated by thermal radiation - from the walls of the furnace and the heated walls of the house. In our article, we are mainly talking about brick ovens, but most of the information can be applied to metal wood (coal) units. Furnace heating with a water circuit can be made on the basis of furnaces of any kind.

Conventional stove heating: advantages and disadvantages

In our country, houses were traditionally heated with brick stoves, but gradually this type of heating was replaced by water systems. All this is because, along with the advantages, simple stove heating has a lot of disadvantages. First about the benefits:

Today, stove heating is perceived more as exotic, as it is very rare. It is impossible to argue that it is very pleasant to be near a warm stove. A special atmosphere is created. But there are also many serious drawbacks:

As you can see, the disadvantages are significant, but some of them can be leveled if a heat exchanger is built into the furnace, which is connected to the water heating system. Such a system is also called furnace water heating or furnace heating with a water circuit.

Water stove heating

When organizing water heating from the furnace, a heat exchanger (water circuit) is built into the furnace, which is connected by pipes to radiators. A coolant circulates in the system, which carries the heat from the furnace to the radiators. This solution increases the comfort of living in winter. The thing is that radiators can be installed in any room, that is, the stove can stand in one room, and all other rooms will be heated by batteries through which heated water runs.

At the same time, the remaining disadvantages of stove heating remain, but the advantages of water heating are added - you can adjust the temperature in each room (within certain limits), a large inertia smoothes out the uneven temperature regime. By the way, the same scheme works with metal stoves on wood or coal.

System types

There are two types of water heating systems: forced circulation and natural circulation (EC). Heating with natural circulation is non-volatile (electricity is not required for operation), circulates due to natural physical processes. The disadvantage of this method of heating is the need to use pipes of large diameter, that is, the volume of the system will be large and will have a large inertia. When kindling the stove, this is not very good - it will take a long time to warm up. But after burning out, heat is retained in the house longer.

Another disadvantage is that to create conditions for the movement of the coolant, the supply pipe is lifted up - to the ceiling or to the level of radiators (in extreme cases). When heating a two-story house, the pipe goes up from the boiler, goes through the radiators, and then goes down and bypasses the batteries on the lower floor.

Another important drawback is the relatively low efficiency of heating systems with EC - the coolant moves slowly, carries little heat.

Furnace heating with a water circuit and forced circulation is distinguished by the presence of a circulation pump (pictured below), which runs constantly. Its task is to drive water at a certain speed. By changing this speed, you can change the intensity of space heating. This leads to the fact that, ceteris paribus, such heating is more efficient. But for the system to work, power is needed - the pump must work constantly. When it stops, the system boils and fails. If you rarely experience power outages, it is enough to have a set of rechargeable batteries. If the light is turned off often and for a long time, you will also have to install a generator, and the total cost of such a solution is considerable.

Furnace heating scheme with a water circuit and a circulation pump

There is a third type of system: mixed or combined. Everything is designed for natural circulation, but a circulation pump is installed. As long as there is electricity, the heating works as forced (with a pump), when the light is turned off, the coolant moves on its own.

heat accumulator

Since the stove is not heated all the time, but has a cyclical algorithm of operation, the house is either hot or cold. And the presence of radiators saves little from this. Although the differences are not so critical, they still exist. Especially there is not enough heat at night, but I really don’t want to get up and drown. To solve this problem, a powerful oven is installed, and a heat accumulator is built into the system. This is a large container filled with coolant, which stands between the furnace and the heating system.

Stove heating with water circuit and heat accumulator

That is, there are two separate independent circuits. The first one transfers heat away from the furnace and is usually made with natural circulation. The second drives the coolant into the radiators, and a circulation pump is usually present.

This method of organizing water stove heating is good because while the stove is heating, the water in the tank is actively heated. With the correct calculation, it heats up to 60-80 ° C, which is enough to maintain the normal temperature of the radiators for about 10-12 hours. There is no extreme heat or extreme cold. The atmosphere is quite comfortable.

Installing a heat accumulator in the system (sometimes also called a buffer or buffer tank) also reduces the risk of the system boiling. The second circuit will definitely never boil, but in order for the first one not to boil, it is necessary to correctly calculate it - so that even in the natural circulation mode, the coolant moves at a sufficient speed and does not have time to overheat.

Register for oven

To heat the coolant, a water circuit is built into the furnace (also called a register, heat exchanger, coil, water jacket). Its shape can be any, but most often they make rectangular flat containers or a set of pipes connected into a single system (such as radiators).

To connect the heat exchanger to the system, two pipes are welded into it: one from above - for taking hot water, the second from below - for pumping cooled water from the return pipeline.

Often questions arise with the sizing of the water circuit for the furnace. It can be approximately calculated based on the heat loss of the building. It is believed that to transfer 10 kW of heat, a heat exchanger area of ​​1 sq. m. But at the same time, it is necessary to take into account the operating time of the furnace - after all, it is not heated all the time. While it is not very cold - once a day for about 1.5 hours, when it is cold - twice. During this time, it is necessary that the stove has time to heat all the water in the heat accumulator. Therefore, the calculation of the heat exchanger area is carried out according to the daily amount of heat required to compensate for heat losses.

For example, let the heat loss for a house be 12 kWh. It will be 288 kW per day. The stove is heated, let it take 3 hours, all the necessary heat should accumulate during this time. Then the required power of the water circuit for the furnace is 288 / 3 = 96 kW. To translate it into an area, we divide by 10, we get that for these conditions the register area should be 9.6 m2. Which form you choose is up to you. It is important that the outer surface of the register is not smaller.

Well, a couple more points. The first is that the power of the furnace must be greater than the power of the heat exchanger found. Otherwise, the required amount of heat simply will not be released. The second caveat: the capacity of the heat accumulator must also correspond - it should be more by about 10-15%. In this case, boiling of the coolant is excluded.

Just do not forget that the heat capacity of water and antifreeze is very different. The battery with antifreeze as a coolant must be significantly larger than the water tank (in the same system).

What else is worth remembering is that it is desirable to insulate the heat accumulator well - so that heat is retained longer. In this case, stove heating with a water circuit will be even more economical.

Is it possible to install a register for heating in an existing stove

It is more correct, of course, to build a furnace around the manufactured register. But, if the furnace is already standing, it is still possible to build a water circuit into it. True, you will have to try hard - they are of considerable size and still have to somehow hold on. So the task is not an easy one. In addition, do not forget that you will still have to make two conclusions - to connect the supply and return pipelines.

The best option is to make a water jacket under the shape of the stove (this one is for metal with burners)

Finding a location for the register is also not very easy. Its direct contact with fire is highly undesirable, but it must be in an environment of hot gases. In this case, you can hope that the heat exchanger will last a long time.

Water heating systems continue to hold a leading position. Despite some complexity in installation, they provide uninterrupted delivery of heat to heated rooms, taking thermal energy from gas boilers . If there is no gas in the house, the systems are powered by alternative heat sources. AT In this review, we will look at how to organize water heating in a private house from a wood-burning stove - in some cases, such stoves become the cheapest heating option.

What is a water circuit oven

A traditional wood-burning stove has an extremely simple design - it contains a combustion chamber with a loading door, an ash pan with a blower and a chimney. It turns out a kind of potbelly stove, characterized by simplicity. But this simplicity deprives the stove of the ability to heat several rooms at once. This disadvantage is eliminated with the help of a water circuit. As a result, we get a unit consisting of the following parts:

• Firebox - firewood, coal and other types of solid fuel are loaded here;
• Ashpit - the ash formed during combustion is poured into it;
• Chimney - through it the products of combustion are sent to the atmosphere;
• The furnace heating coil is a heat exchanger through which the coolant circulates.

It is the coil that is the most important link here, because it is responsible for transferring heat to the heating system.

Consider the main advantages of water heating with a wood-burning stove:

The choice of firewood should be approached very carefully, because the efficiency of the stove depends on it.

• The possibility of self-assembly of the stove - nothing prevents you from assembling it with your own hands, focusing on the drawings and orders;
• Small costs for maintaining the system in working order - the cheapness of firewood affects;
• Availability of fuel - firewood can be purchased or chopped by yourself.

In the latter case, we get almost free water heating with free firewood. But there are also disadvantages:

• The need for regular cleaning of the furnace for water heating - it needs to clean the ash;
• The need to store a large amount of firewood - for this you will have to build a woodpile;
• Low efficiency - it rarely exceeds 80%, although some factory models have good efficiency, reaching and even exceeding 90%.

In addition, to maintain the efficiency of water heating, the stove will have to be constantly fed with firewood. It is the frequent approaches to load the next portion of logs that are the main disadvantage. But this drawback is neutralized by the pyrolysis combustion scheme.

The ash formed during the combustion of firewood is recommended to be used as a fertilizer for feeding flowers and crops.

The principle of operation of a water heating system with a wood-burning stove is ugly simple - burning wood releases heat energy absorbed by the heat exchanger. From there, the heat is sent to the radiators installed in the rooms. To control the temperature, a thermometer is placed in the system. The circulation of the coolant can be natural or forced (using a circulation pump).

Water heating with natural circulation is suitable for heating small households. It is characterized by simplicity and the absence of unnecessary costs for installation work. If the house is large, a forced circulation scheme is implemented - after the wood-burning stove, a circulation pump is installed in the system, driving water through the system. Stove water heating can be of an open or closed type - in the latter case, the circuit is sealed, to compensate for the expansion of the coolant, a special membrane tank is built into it.

Making a do-it-yourself oven

The purchase of a pyrolysis unit will be a big plus - it is distinguished by long-term burning of firewood and increased efficiency.

Furnace heating with a water circuit can heat large buildings - it all depends on the power of the stove used. If it is possible to purchase a factory wood-burning stove, then this is a plus. Factory units are more accurate and efficient, but their purchase requires funds.

With a shortage of funds, stove heating with a water circuit is implemented on the basis of self-assembled wood-burning stoves. They are assembled from sheet metal and brick. Metal stoves are simple - you need a welding machine to assemble them. They are also extremely compact and do not take up much space. Their brick versions are more voluminous, but they keep heat longer and have a more aesthetic appearance.

Wood-fired brick ovens have always been an attribute of home comfort. And being supplemented with heat exchangers for organizing water heating, they will give warmth to the whole house, and not just one single room.

Assembling a simple stove with a water circuit for heating a house with your own hands is not difficult for those who know how to handle tools. In this review, we will consider two schemes - one of them will help to assemble a metal stove, and the second of brick. But first you need to talk about the manufacture of a coil, which is the heart of any wood-burning heating unit.

We make a coil

Furnace water heating begins with the manufacture of a heat exchanger. If desired, they can be equipped with an existing stove, adapting it to the size of the firebox. In this case, the costs will be minimal. In principle, the coil can have any design, and the basis for its manufacture is a steel pipe with a wall thickness of 4-5 mm - this thickness is necessary in order to prevent the coil from burning through burning wood. It is also possible to use a profile rectangular pipe measuring 60x40 mm.

If it is possible to make a heat exchanger for water heating using a stainless steel wood-burning stove, then this is even better - stainless steel is highly resistant to corrosion. Coils made of bent copper pipe have good characteristics.

Scheme of the most successful coil.

For example, a coil can be equipped according to the drawing in the figure on the left. It is made of metal pipes of various diameters. Firewood here burns, as it were, inside the heat exchanger, and the heat is transferred to the circulating water. If necessary, you can make a coil according to any other scheme. There is an alternative solution - a brick oven with water heating is being built in the house, in which the simplest cast-iron battery acts as a heat exchanger.

How to make a brick oven

A brick oven with a water circuit for heating a house is a reliable and beautiful solution. The only catch is to lay out the masonry beautifully, which not everyone can do. As an example, we will take this order.

To assemble a wood burning stove, we need:

• Refractory brick;
• A mixture for laying stoves - is sold in a form ready for kneading;
• Tool for working with the mixture - "trowel";
• Building level.

In the presented order, we see a fairly simple furnace for water heating with a built-in heat exchanger. Nothing prevents you from choosing any other order without a coil - you can equip almost any brick stove with it by placing it directly in the firebox. It is possible to calculate the preliminary dimensions of the furnace by the dimensions of the bricks used and, based on the data obtained, calculate the dimensions of the coil.

Please note that the dimensions of the heat exchanger should be slightly smaller than the furnace - the thermal expansion of the metal during heating will cause a change in its dimensions.

We do the same with any other ordering - we calculate the size of the future furnace, we make a heat exchanger for it. Other arrangements of heat exchangers are also possible, for example, inside the flue channels. This option will be optimal when using a cast-iron battery.

When creating water heating of a private house from a stove, it should be noted that the room in which the stove itself is located does not need to install radiators - it will be heated by the heat coming from the brick walls. Radiators are placed in other rooms where the heat from the heating unit does not reach. By the way, it is possible to save a little on radiators if you mount the stove so that thermal energy flows from its walls into two or three rooms at once.

Making a metal furnace

Stove heating with a water circuit in a wooden house can be made on the basis of a metal stove, although nothing prevents bricks from being preferred. But there is less fuss with metal, and such a stove will take up a minimum of space. As a basis, we take the scheme of the simplest potbelly stove and throw out internal partitions from it.

We offer you a drawing of one of the simplest, but at the same time effective metal furnaces.

These partitions are necessary for the implementation of the pyrolysis combustion scheme, but in the case of our water heating, they are no longer needed. Instead, the entire internal volume will be occupied by a heat exchanger. It can be made from pipes or sheet metal - in the latter case, its area will be slightly larger, which will increase the thermal power of our unit.

For the manufacture of the furnace, sheet metal with a thickness of 4-5 mm is required. We cut out the walls, we make a grate from the reinforcement. We mount the base, put the heat exchanger inside, assemble the structure together. We install the chimney, connect the stove to the water heating system, fill in the coolant and conduct a test run. Please note that the room in which the metal stove is located is heated by its own heat, without additional radiators.

It is not difficult to create a water jacket for a furnace with your own hands. And already it can be mounted in any stove - metal or brick. Heating a home with wood is fraught with frequent fuss with heating equipment, but in the absence of gas, other alternatives look more expensive. To implement more efficient home heating, use our recommendations:

• Do not save on the thickness of the sheet metal - remember that the duration of the service life of the furnace depends on this;
• Be sure to use thermometers and pressure gauges to control the operating parameters of the heating system;
• Do not use alternative heat transfer fluids that are not resistant to high temperatures;
• Ensure that heat losses are eliminated - this will allow you to rely on the economical use of firewood for heating your home.

These tips will make heating a private house on wood more efficient.

Video

A person sitting in front of a fireplace or stove is unlikely to have the idea that these heating devices have low efficiency. The contemplation of fire and the feeling of living heat cannot be replaced by any modern boiler, in which the flame of the burner is hidden in its depths and is not visible to the eye, and each kilowatt of thermal energy is carefully selected and transferred to the coolant. But it turns out that there is a beautiful, even elegant compromise solution - a stove with a water circuit for heating a house.

Stove heating

The stove has always been a kind of "heart" of the house. She has always traditionally stood in the center, and all life was in full swing around her. They cooked food in the oven, heated near it in winter. A well-heated stove accumulated so much energy that even after the fire went out, it gave warmth to all households for a long time, spreading it like the sun in all directions from its massive walls. And there has always been a lot of fuel for the stove - ordinary firewood in Russia, the main thing is not to be too lazy and stock up on them in the summer.

Furnace heating has a number of undeniable advantages:

• Firstly, stoves do not need to be connected to gas and electric networks, they use mainly renewable fuels as fuel, there will always be a lot of them in most of Russia at reasonable prices, and sometimes completely free.

• Secondly, the most comfortable radiant heating is implemented in the furnaces, when the massive walls of the furnace radiate heat, transferring it to surrounding objects and air.
• Thirdly, the stove can combine several functions at once: the actual heating itself, cooking, heating water.

• Fourthly, the contemplation of an open fire in fireplaces (and they, in fact, are stoves) creates a comfortable atmosphere.
• Fifthly, the massive design of the furnace in the cold season is able to accumulate a huge amount of thermal energy, which it will gradually release. In the summer, everything happens the other way around: a stove, which is always built on a separate foundation, “discharges” excess heat energy into the ground from sultry air, that is, it is a kind of air conditioner.
• And, finally, stove heating does not harm the environment if natural fuel is used in it, because combustion processes in nature occur constantly.

Let's add a little tar to the barrel of honey and list the disadvantages of stove heating:

• Stove heating requires constant human participation: laying firewood, cleaning the ash pan and chimney, adjusting draft and other operations, although for a country house of periodic residence this is more of a plus than a minus.

• The more power the stove has, the larger its geometric dimensions should be, and this “eats up” the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house.
• The stove can heat only those rooms with which it is in direct contact. In remote areas, you will have to build or install another stove, as was done in old houses.
• The traditional Russian brick oven, due to its inertia, enters the operating mode for a very long time. Partially, modern fireplaces, potbelly stoves and
• Stove heating has a low efficiency - no more than 40% and usually have excess power. When the furnace enters the operating mode and warms up, it is almost impossible to stand next to it, but then, cooling down, it gradually gives off heat. In this case, a lot of energy simply flies into the atmosphere through the chimney.
• The process of burning fuel in a furnace is more difficult to control than in boilers. It is practically impossible to extinguish the stove instantly, which increases the level of fire danger.
• Furnaces require chimneys with good draft, so that combustion occurs intensively, and flue gases go into the atmosphere and do not penetrate into the premises. Chimneys must be isolated from combustible building structures.
• For the furnace, it is necessary to constantly store a solid supply of fuel, which must be replenished periodically, and slag and ash must be disposed of.

To summarize all of the above, we can say that stoves have the right to exist, but in many respects they still lose to other types of heating. In general, this troublesome business is ovens. If in the conditions of a country house, where a person appears periodically, these are pleasant chores, then in permanent residences, the operation of the stove turns into a routine and is most often a necessary measure, when, for example, it is not possible to organize another heating system due to lack of main gas.

Why does heating with coolant outperform stove heating?

As noted earlier, one of the main problems of stoves is the inability to heat rooms remote from them. In modern models of stoves and fireplaces, manufacturers have tried to solve this problem by supplying their heating devices with convection air channels, to which air ducts can be connected. Warm air from the stove is carried through the rooms, heating them. A very good solution, which, by the way, works great in some homes.

The air in such furnaces acts as a heat carrier, that is, a substance that is able to receive thermal energy from the furnace, and then be transported to its destination and give it to a remote room. To do this, you only need to build a duct system, which is not without drawbacks and is associated with certain difficulties:

• Firstly, air ducts are large and often impossible to hide behind building structures.
• Secondly, air ducts have a strong resistance to the movement of heated air, especially if they have many turns. Therefore, there are restrictions on their length.
• Thirdly, air has a low specific heat, therefore, in order to transfer a certain amount of thermal energy to a room remote from the furnace, a large amount of heated air is required. To do this, it is necessary either to construct larger air ducts, or to force the heated air to be supplied by a fan.
• And, finally, a large amount of dust, soot and other contaminants are transmitted through the air ducts, which are always abundant near the furnace.

The best and most widespread The coolant used in home heating systems is water due to its advantages:

• Water has a very high specific heat capacity ( FROM=4,187 kJ/ (kg*°To) ) compared to dry air ( FROM=1,005 kJ/ (kg*°To) ), therefore, it can receive and transmit a large amount of thermal energy over considerable distances.
• Heated water is easy to transport to the right place through pipelines having small dimensions.

• Water is absolutely harmless, non-toxic and non-flammable.
• Water is always available, we can say that it is almost free.

The main disadvantage of water is its high freezing point - 0 ° C, while it expands in volume and damages the heating system devices. In addition, water in combination with air oxygen has a high corrosivity to ferrous metals. Hard water - with a high content of calcium and magnesium salts, leads to the formation of scale on the inner surface of pipes, heat exchangers and radiators, which drastically reduces their performance. All this requires special measures:

• In year-round houses, during the winter time, which is dangerous for water, nothing threatens the heating system, since it is constantly in operation. Modern gas and electric boilers have a protection function that will prevent the coolant temperature from falling below +5 ° C.
• In houses where a person does not appear in winter, the water from the system can simply be drained, but in this case there will be accelerated corrosion of the steel parts of the heating system. Another way out is the use of special antifreezes that reduce the freezing point, but they are not compatible with all boilers and radiators, they are expensive and age over time.
• Very often, in heating systems, where the coolant is water, they put a backup “on guard”, the task of which is to maintain the temperature in the house, and, therefore, the coolant, at a certain minimum level. When the owners appear, the boiler is started, stoves or fireplaces are melted and the temperature is raised to the desired one. After the departure, the “guard” again takes over the “post”.

• To reduce the corrosive activity of water, special additives are added to it or the system is made closed. Then atmospheric oxygen does not penetrate into the heating system and corrosion stops or goes very slowly and does not affect the overall service life of the heating system devices.

Of course, the question arises - is it possible to combine the charms of stove heating with the advantages of systems where water acts as a coolant. And at the same time try to get away from the shortcomings of both. It was not possible to completely solve this problem, but there are quite good technical solutions, both industrially produced and implemented by home Kulibins. Consider them, and after that it will be possible to draw certain conclusions.

Brief overview of commercially available water circuit heating stoves

Among all the options for implementing a furnace with a water circuit, one must choose those that are already in use and successfully operated. And first of all, you need to pay attention to the finished products that the industry produces. And that's why:

• In the vast majority of cases, a ready-made oven will cost less than a self-made or built one.
• Entire teams of highly qualified specialists with rich experience are working on the creation of finished furnaces, who calculate the design, develop production technology and operating rules.
• In the manufacture, special heat-resistant grades of steel and cast iron are used, which are not available to a simple man in the street at metal depots.
• The quality of industrially manufactured stoves is higher than those made in a handicraft way, as high-level technological equipment is used.

• All ovens sold from manufacturers go through a long and painful process of testing and registration of a package of documents with licensing and regulatory authorities.
• Industrially manufactured stoves have a guarantee from the manufacturer, can be provided with spare parts, they are easier to install, it is easy to choose a chimney for them, they are supplied with a set of ready-made standard projects for creating a heating system or integrating into an existing one.

Currently, many well-known and not so famous manufacturers work on the furnace equipment market: ABX (Czech Republic), NordFlam (Poland), EdilKamin (Italy), MBS (Serbia), Termofor (Russia), Romotop (Czech Republic), Chazelles (France), Invicta (France), Vira (Russia), Panadero (Spain), Storh (Germany) and many others. As an example, we decided to show two models of stoves with a water circuit: the Aquarius fireplace insert from the Termofor company and the Armada 20 stove manufactured under the Vira trademark. We intend to present both of these models from domestic manufacturers, since, with equal technical characteristics, some Western “brothers” are either indecent or simply shamelessly expensive.

Fireplace insert with water circuit "Aquarius"

Termofor, a very well-known company on the market, produces the Aquarius fireplace insert, which can be equipped with a heat exchanger water circuit specifically for heating purposes. Any portal you like can be built for the firebox so that it becomes a harmonious part of the interior of the house. This product is produced in two modifications, both with and without a heat exchanger for water. We specifically indicated in the table the technical characteristics of both models for comparison.

Models	Aquarius	Aquarius TO
Fireplace insert power, kW	12	12
The volume of the heated room (maximum), cub. m	200	200
Overall dimensions, W*D*H, mm	690*515*930	690*515*930
Firebox door opening size, mm	315*535	315*535
Weight, kg	68	77
Combustion chamber volume, l	70.7	62.5
Maximum loading volume, l	56	52
Maximum log size, mm	545	545
Chimney diameter, mm	200	200
Minimum chimney height, m	5	5
Heat exchanger volume, l	-	11.6
Heat exchanger power (maximum), kW	-	6
Maximum working pressure, kgf / sq. cm	-	0.5

The design features of this model of fireplace insert are:

• The large heat - resistant glass of the furnace door is protected from soot and allows you to watch the fire .
• The solid volume of the firebox ensures long burning.
• The furnace is additionally protected by fireclay stone, which prolongs its service life.
• Overall dimensions allow you to choose a standard cladding for fireplaces or make your own.
• A fireplace insert with an Aquarius TO heat exchanger can only be connected to open-type heating systems.

From the technical characteristics of this device, it can be seen that through a water heat exchanger, the firebox can transfer up to 6 kWt of thermal energy to water, which means that the area of ​​\u200b\u200bheated rooms can be about 50-60 m 2 with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. The remaining 6 kW of power can be directed to heating the room where the fireplace is installed, therefore, when constructing the portal, convection flows should be organized near the firebox with the exit of warm air from above the fireplace.

This fireplace, as, in principle, any stove with a water circuit is strictly forbidden to kindle without water in the heat exchanger, this will lead to its rapid failure. The option of connecting "Aquarius TO" to an open heating system with natural circulation is shown in the following diagram:

Thus, in addition to its decorative function, the fireplace can heat a small house. In order for the heat exchange to take place more intensively, it is possible to install a circulation pump with a bypass line on the return line. In the absence of electricity, natural water circulation will occur, and if available, the pump will turn on. There are models of fireplaces that can be included in a closed-type heating system, but we will not consider them within the framework of this article.

Prices for the model range of fireplace inserts with a water circuit "Aquarius"

Fireplace insert with water circuit "Aquarius"

Solid fuel heating boiler «Armada 20 »

This boiler is produced in Russia at the Bermash plant in the city of Berezovsky. It may seem to the reader that the authors have gone away from the topic of the article, because it is about furnaces with a circuit for heating, and suddenly they are talking about boilers. So the “Armada” boiler is nothing more than a furnace of the same manufacturer called “Legion”, in which, instead of convection air heating pipes, a water circuit was placed from pipes. Has this unit ceased to be an oven? Of course not! Just changed the coolant.

Furnaces are traditionally called such heat generators that heat directly in their presence with radiant heat (IR radiation), as well as heating the air. Boilers, on the other hand, are designed to heat water, which will later be transported to various heating devices: radiators, convectors, underfloor heating and others. The main task of the boiler is to heat the coolant, and the furnace to heat everything around it. But we will not deviate from the name declared by the manufacturer and will talk about the Armada 20 boiler. We present its technical characteristics in the form of a table:

Technical characteristics of the boiler ARMADA 20
Boiler power (heat output), kW	20
Heated area (h=2.5 m), sq. m	up to 200
Overall dimensions (W*D*H), mm	390*660*750
Firebox depth/log size, mm	510/480
Weight (excluding fuel and water), kg	115
Combustion chamber volume, l	90
Fuel loading weight (maximum), kg	12
4.8
Firebox door opening dimensions, mm	190*292
Connecting thread for heating flow and return	G 1 ½"
The volume of water in the circuit, l	28
Working pressure in the system, MPa	0.3
Power of the heating element block, kW	3*2=6
Chimney diameter, mm	120
Chimney height (minimum), m	6
Maximum outlet temperature of the heat carrier, °C	95
Minimum inlet temperature of the heat carrier, °C	60-80

This furnace (boiler) has some design features that must be mentioned.

• The heat exchanger has a large number of pipes, so the heat removal area in relation to the volume of water inside the heat exchanger is maximum. This achieves a large heat transfer.
• The door is equipped with a transparent screen made of tempered glass, which allows you to visually observe the combustion of fuel.
• On top of the boiler is a hob. This allows you to reheat or cook food.
• In the upper part of the furnace, the partition has a removable structure, which allows you to clean the boiler and chimney from soot.
• The outer parts of the heat exchanger are at the same time an air convector, which is covered with panels painted with heat-resistant powder paint.
• The boiler is designed for burning firewood (preferably hardwood), fuel briquettes (euro firewood), pellets, as well as brown coal with a fraction size of at least 4 cm.
• The boiler cannot be operated without water in the heat exchanger - this will lead to its rapid failure.
• The boiler design has technological holes for installing a heating element, which will allow maintaining the temperature of the coolant in a safe range without kindling in winter.
• The boiler can operate in both open and closed heating systems with a working coolant pressure of not more than 3 MPa.

Examples of boiler piping for a closed heating system with forced circulation of the coolant, as well as in an open one with natural circulation, are shown in the figures:

Thus, the boiler (oven with a water circuit) "Armada 20" can already heat a fairly large house and at the same time it can still be used for cooking and partially or completely heat the room where it is installed. Although the main heat removal goes in favor of water, all the same, this boiler has not ceased to be a furnace. Or, on the contrary, - this furnace did not become absolutely full-fledged.

Prices for solid fuel heating boilers "Armada"

Solid fuel heating boiler "Armada 20"

Video: Overview of furnaces with a water circuit

Water circuit for heating in a brick oven

It is very tempting to place the heat exchanger of the heating system in a brick oven, given that just a huge amount of fuel combustion energy is spent on heating the massive structure. And in fact, furnaces with a built-in boiler exist and are successfully operated. And this design has many advantages:

• Due to their large mass and ability to accumulate heat, brick ovens are a definite thermal storage buffer, which will take on excess warmth and, if necessary, transfer it to those who lack it.
• In a large brick oven, a hob, a fireplace, and a water heating circuit successfully coexist, and for all these devices it is not necessary to build separate chimneys.
• Heat transfer on the surface and in the furnace mass occurs evenly, so heat will be transferred to the water circuit with the greatest efficiency.
• Even after the complete extinction of the fire in the furnace, the brick oven can “share” heat with the heat exchanger of the water circuit for several hours. But here it all depends on the design and mass of the furnace.

The main disadvantage of this design is the complexity of implementation. It is best to think about using the stove as a heating boiler even before the start of its construction or before reconstruction. In any other case, you will have to plunge into the very troublesome work of disassembling the furnace and assembling it again. And the price of a mistake here is very high, it is very difficult to fix something.

If the owner decided to take such a crucial step as organizing a water circuit in, then here you can’t do without specialists. Furnaces should be dealt with by stove-makers, and engineers should develop them together with the same stove-makers. It would never occur to anyone to go to a car mechanic for dental treatment, why do some homeowners rely on their own strength or rely on the “rich experience” of a neighbor, godfather, matchmaker, brother. That is why it is best to order a furnace project with a water circuit from specialists or use ready-made technical solutions that can be obtained for symbolic money or completely free of charge via the Internet. As they say, Google and Yandex will help you.

Any incorrect intervention in an already finished furnace disrupts its operation, contributes to its rapid destruction, reduces efficiency and creates a danger to the health and life of people. We list the typical mistakes when installing a water circuit in a brick oven:

• The heat exchanger was built into the firebox of a brick oven, so its volume decreased sharply, which affects power, bookmark volume and efficiency, and for the worse. If the coolant actively circulates through it, cooling the firebox, this will lead to a decrease in temperature, the formation of a large amount of soot and chemically aggressive condensate, which will quickly “eat” the heat exchanger if it is not made of stainless steel.

• The heat exchanger was built into the smoke channels of the furnace, which violated their throughput. As a result, part of the carbon monoxide returns to the furnace room, and this can lead to very disastrous results.
• The heat exchanger was embedded in the masonry. When it is heated, a linear expansion of metals occurs, which leads to the destruction of the furnace, the formation of cracks.
• A heat exchanger of unreasonably high power was built into the chimney. The circulating water lowers the temperature of the flue gases, which leads to an avalanche-like formation of condensate, which destroys both the chimney and the heat exchanger.

And there can be many more similar errors with unpredictable consequences. This once again proves that it is better to use a ready-made technical solution and involve professionals for masonry and installation, since for the money spent on a good stainless steel heat exchanger and stove work, you can already buy an excellent solid fuel boiler from well-known "brand" manufacturers.

Types of heat exchangers and their location in a brick kiln

First of all, it is necessary to decide what material the heat exchanger will be made of, which will be placed in a brick oven. There are several options, consider each of them:

• Copper heat exchangers are very effective, since the thermal conductivity of copper is one of the best, but they cannot be used inside brick ovens. Why? The fact is that the melting point of copper is 1083 ° C, and in the furnace it can rise to 1200 ° C. With a constantly circulating coolant, the temperature of the pipe, of course, will not rise to such values, but who can guarantee that emergency situations will not occur. In addition, copper is very afraid of aggressive chemical compounds that abound in condensate.

• Cast iron heat exchangers compare favorably in that they have a very high corrosion resistance. Their main drawback is fragility and fear of sudden temperature changes. If a portion of cold water is launched into a hot cast-iron heat exchanger, then temperature deformations lead to the formation of cracks and its failure. Cast iron is heavily processed and produced in the form of cast parts, which are then assembled by threaded elements through seals, which reduces their reliability. Some craftsmen use cast-iron radiators as a heat exchanger, but their efficiency is low, except to wash the dishes or take a shower.

• Steel heat exchangers are the most common, as steel is an affordable and easily processed material. For the furnace heat exchanger, it is recommended to use heat-resistant steel with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm, and preferably 4-5 mm. Pipes are better to choose seamless. Unfortunately, steel is susceptible to corrosion, so you need to heat the furnace in such modes that are the least conducive to the formation of condensate, and also never drain the coolant from the water jacket.

• Stainless steel heat exchangers are the best, but also the most expensive. Most widespread steel grade - AISI 304. It is better not to make these parts yourself, but to order their manufacture at enterprises that have equipment for laser cutting of metals and welding in an argon environment. Then the quality of the seams will be as close as possible to the material of the pipe itself.

What is the heat exchanger made of?

Heat exchangers can be made of metal sheet, round or shaped rectangular tubes and their combinations. Consider their main types.

• A sheet steel heat exchanger is usually located in the hottest place - right in the furnace furnace, it fits the walls and ceiling and at the same time it has openings for loading firewood and flue gases. It is made from a sheet 3-4 mm thick, and sections of pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm are welded on top and bottom for the supply and return lines. The internal gap in the heat exchanger should not be less than 3 cm - to prevent water from boiling. At the same time, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the upper supply pipe is at the highest point of the heat exchanger, otherwise steam plugs may form in it, which, when entering the heating system, threaten with water hammer that can damage pipes or radiators.

• Pipe heat exchangers are also most often located in the furnace. For the manufacture of such heat exchangers, they take tons of pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm or shaped rectangular pipes 40 * 60 mm, 60 * 60 mm. A spatial structure is welded from them, which will be different in each individual furnace. The main thing is that the heat exchanger does not block the loading door and smoke channels.

• If the stove is used for cooking and has a hob, then heat exchangers are not made in the upper part of the firebox, in which case they should fit the side surfaces.

• Very often, heat exchangers made of pipes in the form of flat registers are located in the furnace hood or in smoke circulation channels. They can remove less heat in these places, so they are usually of impressive size, but they work in milder conditions, and therefore they can last longer. The main condition is that they should not interfere with the exit of flue gases. That is why their design is calculated in advance. It is strictly forbidden to put such heat exchangers in an already finished furnace.

Calculation of the power and dimensions of the furnace heat exchanger

Naturally, for heating purposes, the power of the heat exchanger must be calculated. An incorrectly calculated water circuit will either not provide the desired temperature in the rooms, or, conversely, with excess power in the rooms, it will be like in the Sahara Desert and it will be very difficult to reduce the temperature, since it is very difficult to control the flame in a brick oven. How to do it right?

Heating should compensate for the heat loss of the house, so their assessment is the first thing to do. Such calculations are made by heating engineers. The calculation method has a rather complex algorithm and requires a large amount of initial data. It is quite difficult to make such calculations on your own, but practice shows that in most cases for every 10 m 2 of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, from 1 to 1.2 kW of heating system power is required. In this case, the height of the ceilings should be from 2.5 to 2.7 m.

After calculating the heat loss, you can proceed to the calculation of the power of the water circuit itself (heat exchanger), which depends on the environment in which temperature it is located and on its area of ​​​​contact with this environment. Practice shows that an average of 5-10 kWt of thermal energy can be “removed” from each square meter of a heat exchanger. But approximate indicators cannot suit us, so we will calculate more accurately.

Obviously, the power of the entire heat exchanger will depend on its area. S and some indicator - specific power Q, which reflects how much heat energy a heat exchanger of a unit area of ​​1 m 2 can give: Q=S*Q.

Specific power is also a calculated value and can be calculated using a simple formula:

Q y =k*(T m —t m), kcal / hour, where:

• k- heat transfer coefficient of the material per 1 °C. For steel used in heat exchangers k=12 kcal/h .
• Tm- the temperature of the heating medium (average), which is the arithmetic mean between the maximum and minimum temperatures. T m =(T max+Tmin)/2.
• tm- the arithmetic mean of the temperature in the water circuit. t m =(t under +t arr )/2, where t under is the temperature of the heat carrier at the outlet (supply) from the heat exchanger, and t arr- temperature at the inlet (return) .

Assume that the furnace is coal-fired, then the average temperature in the furnace will be: Tm =(1000°C+600°C)/2=800°C. Let us take the coolant temperature: tm =(80°C+60°C)/2=70°C. Then the specific power of the heat exchanger will be: Q y \u003d 12 * (800 - 70) \u003d 8760 kcal / hour. Convert calories to watts: 1 watt = 859.85 cal, means, Qy \u003d 8760000 kcal / 859.85 \u003d 10187.82 watts≈10.2 kW. It turns out that from one square meter of the heat exchanger it is theoretically possible to remove 10 kWt of thermal energy.

If firewood is used instead of coal, then, naturally, their calorific value is lower. The maximum and minimum temperatures in the firebox will be: Tmax=700° FROM , Tmin=300° FROM, means Q y \u003d 12 * (500 - 70) \u003d 5160 kcal / hour, what is in watts 5160000/859,85=6001,05 ≈6 kW. It turns out that when the stove is fired with wood, it is possible to remove about 6 kW of thermal energy from 1 m2 of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe heat exchanger located in the firebox.

Depending on the need for the amount of thermal energy, it is possible to calculate the required area of ​​​​the heat exchanger: S= Q/Q. Suppose that 15 kWt of thermal energy is needed to heat a house, which means that the area of ​​​​the heat exchanger that comes into contact with the hot medium in the combustion chamber should be 15/6=2.5 m 2. If the heat exchanger is made of steel sheet, then its area is easy to calculate, and if from round pipes, then the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach pipe is calculated: Str \u003d 2 * π *D*l, where D– diameter tr uby, and l- pipe length. The area of ​​rectangular pipes is calculated as their perimeter multiplied by the length. This is how you can calculate such a heat exchanger that will satisfy the heating needs of the house.

Installation of a water circuit in a brick oven

We note the important features of the installation of heat exchangers in a brick oven:

• The heat exchanger must only be installed in a furnace specially designed for this purpose. When reconstructing old furnaces, it is necessary to contact specialists, they will make the necessary calculations and offer such a heat exchanger design that will not interfere with the normal operation of the furnace.
• After the heat exchanger has been manufactured, it must be pressurized with a pressure of 6 bar both before installation in the furnace and after it is installed.

• Usually, heat exchangers are mounted immediately after the arrangement of the foundation of the furnace, and only then masonry is carried out.
• To compensate for thermal expansion, it is necessary to leave a gap between it and the furnace walls of at least 10-15 mm when installing the heat exchanger. It is strictly forbidden to embed the heat exchanger in the body of the furnace.
• The exit points of the heat exchanger pipes do not need to be walled up with mortar. For pipes, a gap of 5 mm should be left, in which a heat-resistant sealant, for example, asbestos cord, is placed. The exit of the pipes from the furnace must be at least 10-15 cm, so that it is possible to re-cut the thread if it is damaged.
• The connection of the heat exchanger with the pipes of the heating system must be done only with heat-resistant seals.

Rules for operating a furnace with a water circuit

Not only are the calculations and the installation of the heat exchanger in the furnace itself a rather time-consuming and responsible operation, for the normal operation of the heating, a set of rules is also required:

• In no case should the furnace be operated with empty heat exchangers, this will lead to their rapid burnout.
• It is forbidden to cut off the heat exchanger from the heating system when the furnace is running. When water is heated, it expands in volume, pressure increases, which can even lead to an explosion. It is better not to install any shut-off valves at the outlets of the heat exchanger.

• Do not supply cold water to the heat exchanger when the oven is hot. Thermal deformations can disable it. The weakest point is the welds.
• To increase the efficiency of the heating system, it is better to use an appropriate capacity with a bypass.

• In the heating system, it is imperative to provide a tap at the lowest point to drain water from the system.
• If necessary, special antifreezes can be used in the water circuit of the furnace.

Do-it-yourself construction of a heating and cooking furnace with a water circuit

As already recommended by the authors of the article, it is better to use the ready-made and time-tested design of the furnace, which is described in detail in the well-known book by Ya. G. Porfiryev “Furnace Works”. This heating device covers a base area of ​​1020*1160mm and has a height of 2380mm. The heat exchanger of the water circuit has dimensions (750 * 500 * 350 mm) made of sheet steel and is located in the firebox, so the hob is used only for heating food. According to the author of the design, the heat transfer to the water circuit is approximately 5.5 kW with a firebox twice a day, and with an enhanced one it can reach 18 kW, which allows heating rooms with a total area of ​​​​up to 180-200 m 2.

List of required materials and devices

Image	Description of materials (kiln appliances)	Quantity, pcs
	Solid red brick (excluding chimney)	710
	Fireclay refractory brick SHA-8	71
	Furnace door 210*250 mm	1
	Blower door 140*250 mm	1
	Ash pan cleaning door 140*140 mm	7
	Grate 250*300 mm	2
	Cast iron plate 710*410 mm	1
	Sheet steel heat exchanger 750*500*350 mm	1
	Stove valve 130*250 mm	1
	Valve for cooking chamber 130*130 mm	1
	Steel strip:
	50*5*400mm	1
	50*5*980mm	2
	Steel corner 50*50*5*980	2
	Pre-furnace sheet 500*1000 mm	1

Work procedure

Before starting work on the construction of a furnace with a water circuit, it is necessary to carefully study the design of the furnace, see its general appearance and how it looks in sections. All this is shown in the next three figures.

After that, it is necessary to make a heat exchanger for the water circuit of the furnace, the drawing of which is shown in the following figure.

What should be taken into account when manufacturing a heat exchanger?

• The walls facing the fire are made of 5 mm sheet steel.
• External walls that carry a lower thermal load can be made of 3 mm steel.
• A gap of at least 50 mm wide must be left on the back side for the exit of gases from the firebox.
• The heat exchanger outlet (supply) is made of seamless steel pipe with a diameter of 40 mm, and it must be welded at the highest point.
• Another outlet (return) is made from the same pipe and welded at the lowest point of the heat exchanger.

Ordering the laying of a furnace with a water circuit

Before laying the furnace, it is necessary to build an appropriate foundation for it, but in this article we will not consider this issue, but we will move on to ordering. Before that, let's get acquainted with the symbols that will be encountered in the future.

Drawing	3D view	Additional View
A solid 1 row of bricks is laid out. It is very important to observe horizontality and rectangularity, since much will depend on this later. There are 36 red bricks in this row.
On the laying of the 2nd row, the formation of the base of the ash chamber begins. A door measuring 140 * 250 mm is installed. 31 whole red bricks and one half are involved.
It is laid according to the scheme 3 row. The number of bricks, as in the previous one, is 31 red whole and half.
On the 4th row, the formation of the firebox begins, so 11 fireclay bricks and 21 red ones are already used. Cutouts are made in the SHA-8 brick to install the grate.
At the stage of formation of 4 rows, gratings are laid in the cut grooves. To compensate for thermal expansion, a gap of about 5 mm is left.
A heat exchanger (boiler) is installed at the bottom of the firebox
When laying the 5th row, a gap of 5-6 mm is left - for the thermal expansion of the heat exchanger. Behind it, free space is left, connecting to a horizontal channel. At the same stage, 2 doors 140 * 140 mm are installed - for cleaning the channel. 14 red and 3 fireclay bricks are used.
6 row. The horizontal channel is separated from the channel behind the boiler, and the hole left in the previous row will increase the draft of the furnace. On the same row, the firebox door is installed. 15 whole red bricks and one half are used, as well as 1 fireclay.
According to the scheme, the 7th row is laid out. Used 15 and ½ red and 2 fireclay bricks.
When laying the 8th row, the boiler furnace door is closed. For this, a strip of 50 * 5 * 400 mm is used. In a row, 11 and ½ red bricks and 6 fireclay bricks are laid out.
In the 9th row, the boiler supply pipe is produced. Halves of fireclay bricks above the firebox door are cut obliquely. The horizontal channel is divided into two equal parts. Used 12 and ½ red bricks and 7 fireclay.
On the same 9th row above the firebox door, a ¾ part of the fireclay brick cut obliquely down is installed.
On the 10th row, the bricks are released inward, so the space above the boiler narrows. 3 red and 18 ½ fireclay bricks are used.
11 row. Bricks already from the ends of the furnace are also released inside. Cutouts are made in the bricks for laying the cast-iron hob. It is taken into account that the thermal gap must be at least 5 mm. Number of bricks used: 10 red and 16 ½ fireclay.
On the 11th row, a cast-iron stove is installed. In the place where there will be an opening to the cooking chamber, a corner of 50 * 50 * 980 mm is installed.
On the 12th row, the cooking chamber begins to form. You should pay attention to the fact that the cast-iron cooking surface is removable - it rises by the front and is removed. Used 12 red and 5 fireclay bricks.
The 13th row is laid out according to the scheme, in which 16 ½ red bricks are used.
In the 14th row, the vertical channel increases to the entire available width. For its cleaning, a door 140 * 140 mm is mounted. Used 14 ½ red bricks.
The 15th row is laid out similarly to the previous one according to the scheme, which ensures the dressing of the seams. Used 14 ½ red bricks.
In the 16th row, the facade of the cooking chamber is covered with a steel strip 50 * 5 * 980 mm and a corner 50 * 50 * 5 * 980. Used 15 red bricks.
The 17th row completes the overlapping of the facade of the cooking chamber, for this 18 ½ red bricks are used.
18 row. To completely cover the cooking chamber itself, two strips of steel 50 * 5 * 980 mm are mounted, and 19 red bricks are laid out according to the drawing.
The 19th row completes the overlap of the entire cooking chamber. The left passage in half a brick is needed for the hood. In the passage, recesses are cut for the valve. 32 red bricks are used.
The 19th row is completed by the installation of a small chamber shutter 140 * 140 mm.
20 row forms the base of the upper gas ducts. To do this, according to the drawing, halves are laid out, which will be the basis of subsequent partitions. For cleaning and revision, 4 doors 140 * 140 mm are mounted. This row requires 18 red bricks.
21 row continues the formation of partitions. It requires 17 ½ red bricks.
22 row. It requires 21 red bricks.
In the 23rd row, the upper gas ducts are divided into 4 channels. One of them (lower left in the drawing) will later be the main chimney, and the rest serve as a common hood, separated by partitions. Used 24 red bricks.
For laying 24 rows, 24 red bricks are required.
For laying 25 rows, 23 ½ red bricks are required.
For laying 26 rows, 23 ½ red bricks are required.
For laying 27 rows, 23 ½ red bricks are required.
For laying 28 rows, 23 ½ red bricks are required.
Row 29 requires 23 ½ red bricks.
In the 30th row, the unification of all smoke circulation channels begins, except for the main one. Used 20 red bricks.
31 row continues the union of vertical channels. It requires 21 ½ red bricks.
32 row prepares the overlap of the furnace. Used 25 ½ red bricks.
33 row covers the oven. The main channel is left with a size of 130 * 260 mm, 35 red bricks are used.
34th row closes the oven a second time. This requires 37 red bricks. To install the main smoke damper, grooves are cut.
The smoke damper is installed and adjusted in place.
35th row completes the laying of the furnace body. A base is made for the chimney pipe. This requires 5 red bricks.

Video: Heating and cooking stove with a water circuit

Pitfalls of water circuits of furnaces

Such a tempting task as arranging a water circuit in a furnace is not as perfect as we would like, since this seemingly correct event has its own pitfalls. And the topic would not have been fully disclosed if the authors kept silent about it. So, what can the owner of a furnace with a water circuit for heating expect?

• First of all, such furnaces cannot be operated with an empty water circuit, as noted earlier. Let's imagine a situation where a family decides to visit a country house for the weekend in winter and kindle a stove or fireplace. The prudent owner, of course, drained all the water from the heating system in the fall, so it needs to be refilled. Inconvenience? Of course yes! It’s not a fact that there is running water in the country house, but a good propylene glycol-based antifreeze poured into the system costs a lot and can behave unpredictably in ovens. The temperature volumetric expansion of antifreezes is much higher than that of plain water, and therefore the pressure increase occurs like an avalanche.
• Another pitfall of operating stoves with a water circuit is that in the warm season, having melted a cooking stove or a fireplace, the owners will have to put up with the fact that the batteries will also be hot, because the stove cannot be operated without water, and excess heat in summer is completely no need. How to be? A possible solution to this problem is to install heat accumulator, which costs much more than even a very good solid fuel boiler. Another solution may be to install heating radiators somewhere in the attic or basement and in the summer time simply switch the water circuit to them, dumping excess heat and making a small contribution to global warming and the melting of Arctic ice. But again, this is extra care and expense.
• Almost all modern heating systems are made with forced circulation of the coolant, for which special pumps are used. This allows for more efficient heat transfer and the use of smaller pipe diameters. And nothing prevents equipping the water circuit of the furnace with a circulation pump, a safety group, an expansion tank and other essential components of the system. But is it worth it is the big question. Modern boilers have a well-thought-out design from the point of view of safety, are tested by high pressure, and have protection. The occurrence of a dangerous emergency situation in cases of boilers, including solid fuel ones, is extremely unlikely, which cannot be said about home-made designs of furnaces with a water circuit. The influence of the human factor is too great in them.

So, what conclusions can be drawn. Will a stove with a water circuit become a full-fledged boiler? Never! Yes, it is more than just a stove, but not yet a boiler. And vice versa - the boiler is unlikely to become a furnace. These devices have different functions from each other, and their intersection can be economically unjustified, as well as difficult to implement and in some cases simply dangerous. It is cheaper and better to have a separate furnace and boiler, then each of these devices is realized in all its glory, without interfering with each other.

The ideal location for a water circuit furnace from an engineering point of view

Is there such an ideal place where a stove or fireplace with a water circuit is realized in all its glory? Certainly yes. Let's look at the figure, which shows a diagram of an energy-efficient house.

It can be seen that one of the main components of the overall heating and hot water supply system at home is heat accumulator, also called buffer tank, installed in the boiler room of the basement. It is a large capacity (usually at least 500 liters) in which there are coils of heat exchangers from various heat sources. It can be a gas or solid fuel boiler, solar collector panels, and, as seen from the above drawing, there was a place for a fireplace with a water circuit. Analysis of the coolant for various purposes (radiator heating,warm floors) comes from this container. All "requests" are monitored by sensors with controllers and pumping groups.

Hot water is supplied from an internal tank, hermetically separated from the main tank. Heating of water goes through metal walls. If necessary, through special flanges, a heating element can be installed in the internal hot water tank, "helping" at night, when reduced electricity tariffs apply. The body of the buffer tank is enclosed in a powerful thermal insulation made of expanded polystyrene with a thickness of at least 100 mm, which ensures minimal heat loss.

Heating systems based on buffer tanks have undeniable advantages:

• Heat accumulator large volume takes on excess heat, which can be generated by solid fuel boilers, as well as furnaces with a water circuit or solar systems. This prevents overheating and prolongs the life of the equipment.
• A heating system with a buffer tank works more stable, since there is no dependence on only one heat source.
• Application heat accumulator allows you to save up to 30% of energy resources.

The main disadvantages of systems with buffer capacity are their volatility and the very high cost of equipment. Therefore, the application of a water-loop furnace, flawless from the point of view of engineering science, can become completely unreasonable from the point of view of common sense. Although, of course, the future belongs to such systems. In developed countries, where the state subsidizes the use of various alternative energy sources, such systems are already widely used.

Conclusion

Summing up the article, we can conclude that stoves with a water circuit may well be used for heating a house, but with many reservations:

• It is best to use industrially manufactured stoves and fireplaces that are specially adapted for.
• When using a brick oven to heat the coolant, it is best to build from scratch a structure specially adapted and designed specifically for these purposes.
• The implementation of a furnace and a boiler in one design is a difficult task that has its own pitfalls.
• The ideal place for furnaces with a water circuit is a heating system with a buffer tank.