Reading 6 min. Published on 07.11.2018

Fungal diseases can become widespread, the Nitrafen remedy can
used for both treatment and prevention

In this article:

Description of the drug

Insectofungicide Nitrafen is a paste that has a dark brown color and a sharp unpleasant smell of carboxylic acid. The active ingredients are sodium salts of alkylphenols. The paste dissolves well in water and has insecticidal, herbicidal and fungicidal effects. It is sold in iron or glass jars, but is most often found in polymer bottles. The shelf life of this substance is three years.

It is necessary to strictly adhere to the instructions for use. Since "Nitrafen" refers to strong chemicals

Despite the high efficiency of the drug, we should not forget that it is a very strong chemical, which burns young shoots of plants and irritates human skin. Therefore, the use of Nitrofen in horticulture should be carried out strictly according to the instructions. It is important to remember that plants can only be treated with it in early spring, until the leaves begin to appear, or in late autumn.

Use in horticulture

It is advisable to spray the plants with Nitrafen in late March or early April. Only one treatment is enough to control diseases and pests, as this substance provides long-term protection and, after spraying, remains well on any organic surfaces and soils.

Means "Nitrafen" is poorly washed off from the treated surfaces, which gives long-term protection to plants

The drug is effective against the following pests:

• ticks;
• caterpillars;
• mole;
• scab;
• leaflet;
• copperfish.

In horticulture, this substance can also be used to disinfect soil near trees or shrubs. Some gardeners treat fallen leaves with it. But it is undesirable to use the drug as a herbicide, since it creates unstable soil salinization.

But Nitrofen successfully fights the following diseases:

• rust;
• septoria;
• scab
• powdery mildew;
• coccomycosis, etc.

You can process them with apple trees, pears, cherries, currants, grapes, gooseberries, strawberries, as well as other fruit trees and berry bushes. Insectofungicide great for weed control, such as woodlice and colza. It is also used to disinfect wounds on trees and shrubs. To do this, the damaged areas should be coated with a solution of Nitrafen.

Instructions for use of this drug provides for its use only in the form of an aqueous solution, which can be prepared in different ways depending on the purpose.

Instructions for use and price

Nitrafen is a very effective drug for fighting larvae and eggs on fruit trees. To prepare a working solution for spraying, you need to take 200 g of paste and dilute in 10 liters of water. The processing of one adult tree, as well as the soil under it, will require approximately 30 liters of the finished substance.

To spray berry bushes from aphids, scab, powdery mildew and other pests, take 300 g of the drug and dilute it in 20 liters of water. For 10 sq. meters of plantings consumes approximately 2 liters of solution.

Spraying with Nitrafen should be carried out before the start of the season and after

Experienced gardeners use liquid Nitrofen to treat grapes to get rid of aphids, scale insects, moths and mites. For this, the drug is diluted in exactly the same proportion as for fruit trees. Thus, you need to prepare a 2% solution and treat all the grapes, soil and vegetation under it in the spring. If it was not possible to complete such a procedure in time, then it is advisable to spray it in the fall, when the crop is harvested and the green leaves fall off.

In this video you will learn about the grape processing scheme:

Against leaf spot and gray mold of berries on garden strawberries, you can also use a 2% solution of Nitrafen. The instructions for spraying a garden to kill infections are the same as for treating berry bushes. Only in this case, the soil should be cultivated with a 3% solution not only under the bushes, but also around them, as well as on the near-stem circles of fruit trees.

The insectofungicide is inexpensive, 300 ml of this substance will cost about 120 rubles. You can buy it in special gardening stores or order it online.

Analogues and Precautions

Now almost every drug has several analogues, and Nitrafen is no exception. Therefore, if you wish, you can replace such a remedy with Bordeaux liquid, a concentrated solution of urea, or with copper and iron sulfate.

While working with Nitrofen precautions must be taken, since in its pure form this powder is highly toxic. It may cause irritation to the skin, eyes and respiratory tract and prolonged contact with this substance may result in dermatitis.

Before applying the solution, it is necessary to take care of personal protective equipment. Spraying is preferably carried out with gloves, a respirator, glasses and closed clothing. Wash your hands and face well after handling the product.

It is necessary to treat plants with the drug in dry and calm weather. This is good for morning or evening. During the preparation of the working solution, the instructions should be strictly followed; the concentration of the substance recommended by the manufacturer should not be exceeded. It is recommended to spray plants with Nitrofen no more than once every three years. It is important to remember that this substance is flammable.

Spraying the garden with pesticides against wintering stages of pests and diseases is carried out in the spring before bud break.

At a later time, these pesticides cannot be used - they can destroy the leaves.

The garden must be sprayed very carefully so that the solution covers the bark on all branches.

Nitrafen (drug No. 125)

Dark brown paste, soluble in water. It is used against aphid eggs, apple sucker, red apple mite, acacia false scale larvae, pear scab, partially against eggs of the comma-shaped and willow scale insects.

The drug is also effective as a means of combating the wintering stages of anthracnose of berry bushes, American gooseberry powdery mildew, and partially against apple scab.

Working concentration 3% (300 g per 10 l of water). To prepare the working solution, a dose of the concentrate is poured with a double amount of water, stirred until a homogeneous mass is poured into the water measured for the preparation of the emulsion, and mixed well. It is moderately toxic to humans. It stains clothes and buildings.

Preparation KZM

Green (petroleum) oil emulsion concentrate. Thick dark oily liquid. Contains 68% green oil. It dissolves well in water, forming a stable emulsion.

Effective against testicles of ticks, partially against eggs of leafworms.

The working concentration is 8% (800 g per 10 l of water) when spraying pome fruits and 6% (600 g per 10 l of water) when spraying stone fruits and berry bushes. Emulsions are prepared in the same way as nitrafen emulsions.

Relatively low toxicity to humans.

Preparation 30 and 30C

Concentrated mineral oil emulsion. Light brown liquid. Thickens strongly in the cold. Contains about 80% petroleum oil. Apply against the eggs of the red apple mite in the form of a 5% emulsion (500 g per 10 liters of water). Toxic (but to a lesser extent) against leafworm eggs.

Low poison for humans, flammable.

Ferrous vitriol (iron sulphate).

Light green crystals of various sizes, sometimes with a whitish or brown coating; in ground form - dark gray powder.

It dissolves well in water. It is used to control mosses and lichens and as a prophylactic against fungal diseases.

Working concentration 5% (500 g per 10 l of water).

Not toxic to humans.

Preparations for the destruction of gnawing pests (caterpillars, sawfly larvae, weevils, etc.)

Mainly used for pest control chlorophos. Sevin is promising, and against caterpillars, the bacterial preparation entobacterin-3 is also promising.

Chlorophos (dipterex)

It dissolves well in water. Available in the form of several drugs.

Pasty chlorophos is a thick viscous mass of gray color, contains 65% of the active substance. Apply at a concentration of 0.2% (20 g per 10 liters of water).

Crystalline or finely lumpy white chlorophos contains at least 90% active ingredient. Apply at a concentration of 0.1 - 0.15% (10 - 15 g per 10 liters of water).

Chlorophos wettable powder - white or gray, contains 80% active ingredient. Apply at a concentration of 0.15 - 0.2 (15 - 20 g per 10 liters of water).

A highly effective pesticide against leaf-damaging caterpillars (open-feeding) and against larvae of various sawflies, including apple, plum and currant, various types of gall midges and flies. It is also effective against codling moth, gooseberry moth, apple flower beetle and apple sucker.

Moderately toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals.

Sevin - 50 and 80%

Wetting powder. Substitute for DDT. This promising pesticide is used at the beginning of bud break against leaf-damaging caterpillars and weevils at a concentration of 0.1 - 0.15% - according to a 50% preparation of 10 - 15 g per 10 l of water) and during the second spraying from apple codling moth (through 30 - 40 days after apple blossom) at a concentration of 0.2% (20 g per 10 liters of water).

If sevin contains 80% of the active substance, its concentration is reduced accordingly. Sevin, when applied shortly after flowering, can cause excessive thinning (falling off) of the ovary in the apple tree, therefore, the use of this drug during the first spraying against the codling moth should be refrained from.

Moderately toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals, poisonous to bees and other beneficial insects.

Entobacterin-3

Light gray wettable powder, bacterial preparation.

With the help of entobacterin, it is possible to successfully fight almost all butterfly caterpillars that damage the leaves of trees and shrubs; it is also effective against the larvae of the cherry slimy sawfly.

The drug is especially toxic against caterpillars and larvae (first instars). The effectiveness of entobacterin against caterpillars of apple and plum codling moths living inside fruits is being studied.

The concentration when used in the central and northern regions is 0.5 - 0.1% (50 - 100 g per 10 liters of water).

The drug should be used at an air temperature of +20 - 30 degrees (at temperatures below +15 degrees it is better to refrain from using it).

The addition of a very small amount of chlorophos (2 g per 10 liters of suspension) to the suspension of entobacterin significantly improves the efficiency. In this case, you can reduce the concentration of entobacterin to 0.3% (30 g per 10 liters of water).

Entobacterin can be added to all pesticides used in the garden. The drug is harmless to plants, warm-blooded animals, bees and other beneficial insects.

The production of entobacterin is getting better.

Boverin

Pesticides to control sucking pests.

To combat sucking pests, organophosphate preparations (karbofos, trichlormetafos-3 and others) are promising. These drugs successfully replace highly toxic, for humans, nicotine sulfate, anabazine sulfate, thiophos, methylmercaptophos.

Recently, new anti-tick drugs have begun to be used - keltan and tedion.

Karbofos (malathion) - 30%

Emulsion concentrate, a complete substitute for thiophos and nicotine sulfate.

Thick liquid from light yellow to dark brown with a strong unpleasant odor, which disappears fairly quickly after spraying. It mixes well with water, forming a stable emulsion.

Karbofos emulsions are used at a concentration of 0.3% (30 g per 10 l of water) to combat herbivorous mites and open-feeding caterpillars and at a concentration of 0.1 - 0.2% (10 - 20 g per 10 l of water) to control aphids and larvae of apple sucker.

Karbofos does not destroy eggs of pests.

Moderately toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals. Flammable.

Methylnitrophos - 30%

emulsion concentrate. Dark brown thick oily liquid. A promising preparation for combating herbivorous mites, aphids, sawfly larvae, leaf-eating caterpillars of the first stages and other pests.

It is used at a concentration of 0.1 - 0.2% (10 - 20 g per 10 liters of water).

For a person, it is moderately toxic.

Trichlormetafos-3 (30 - 50% concentrate)

Oily brownish-brown liquid with a pungent odor, miscible with water. A complete substitute for thiophos and nicotine sulfate. It is used to combat herbivorous mites, aphids, suckers, larvae of mining flies, open-living caterpillars and larvae of younger sawflies.

Working concentration 0.15 - 0.2% (15 - 20 g per 10 l of water) for 50% concentrate.

Moderately toxic to humans.

Keltan

Organochlorine drug. The ethersulfonate substitute compares favorably with the latter in that it does not burn the leaves of plants at the applied concentration. Produced in the form of a 20% emulsion concentrate.

Highly effective acaricide, retains its toxicity on leaves for 30 - 60 days. It is used in the form of a 0.2 - 0.3% emulsion (20 - 30 g per 10 liters of water).

Keltan should not be mixed with Bordeaux liquid and other pesticides with an alkaline reaction, this reduces its toxicity. For humans and warm-blooded animals, it is moderately toxic.

Tedion - 50%

Wetting powder. Substitute for ethersulfonate and other acaricides.

Powder of white or light yellow color. It is used in the form of a 0.2% aqueous suspension (20 g per 10 liters of water) against summer eggs and hatching larvae of spider mites.

Tedion does not destroy adult female ticks and hibernating eggs. The best terms of application on an apple tree are before flowering, immediately after flowering and in the future within the time limits provided for the fight against codling moth.

It can be used together with Bordeaux liquid and in this respect compares favorably with celtan. The drug is safe for bees and other beneficial insects (entomophages), does not burn plants, and is slightly toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals.

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Ethersulfonate - 30%

Wettable powder of white or light brown color with a slight odor. It does not dissolve in water, but after stirring in it forms a stable suspension. Designed to combat herbivorous mites.

Working concentration 0.1 - 0.3% (10 - 30 g per 10 liters of water). The drug destroys the testicles and young larvae of ticks, but has little effect on adult ticks. The ethersulfonate is retained on the leaves for a long time and gradually destroys the larvae hatching from the eggs.

It can cause burns on young leaves of some apple and stone fruit varieties, especially in wet weather, so it is best used in summer on roughened leaves. Less poisonous for people.

Sulfur is colloidal.

Grayish-yellow powder. Contains 70% finely ground sulfur. It is mainly used to combat currant bud, pear and plum gall mites. Effective, but to a lesser extent against spider mites, apple scab and powdery mildew.

Working concentration 0.5 - 1% (50 - 100 g per 10 liters of water).

A dose of sulfur is triturated with a small amount of water to a creamy state, poured into the water intended for the preparation of the suspension, and mixed well. It is better to soak sulfur on the eve of the day of spraying. Less poisonous for people. Flammable.

Liquid soap, potash.

Ointment-like mass, brown or greenish in color, dissolves well in soft water. Usually soap is added to solutions of nicotine sulfate and soda to improve their action and adhesion, 20-50 g per 10 liters of water.

A solution of liquid soap in high concentrations (250 - 300 g per 10 liters of water) can be used to control aphids. Liquid soap can be replaced with laundry soap.

Pyrethrum

(Powder brownish-straw color). It is obtained by grinding dry flower heads of Caucasian, Dalmatian and Persian chamomile.

The drug does not burn plants, it is practically harmless to humans and warm-blooded animals. However, the high cost and relatively limited release for sale hinder its widespread use in the practice of pest control.

It is used to combat aphids, fleas and various caterpillars (especially of younger and middle ages) by dusting.

With prolonged storage, pyrethrum may lose its toxic properties. Therefore, it is advisable to pre-test the drug by pollinating a twig infected with pests. The death of pests usually begins 1-2 hours after pollination. Feverfew can also be used by spraying, for this you need to insist 100 - 200 g of powder for 10 hours in 10 liters of water.

Pesticides for the control of plant diseases.

Along with Bordeaux liquid to combat plant diseases in horticulture, new promising fungicides are widely used - copper oxychloride, captan, cineb and others. Most of the new preparations do not cause leaf burns and are more convenient to use, which compares favorably with Bordeaux liquid.

Copper sulfate (copper sulfate). Blue picttalls of various sizes, odorless, dissolve in water, faster in hot water (it cannot be dissolved in a metal container). It is used mainly as an integral part of Bordeaux mixture. Slightly toxic to humans.

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Quicklime (boiling). Pieces of various sizes are white, light gray or slightly yellow; slaked lime (fluff) - white powder, and with an excess of water - a semi-liquid or liquid mass.

To combat pests, only freshly slaked lime should be used, which neutralizes the acidity of some pesticides that burn plants.

During long-term storage, slaked lime interacts with carbon dioxide in the air, turns into chalk and becomes unsuitable for the preparation of Bordeaux liquid. Freshly slaked lime is also used for whitewashing the trunks of fruit trees.

When working with quicklime it is necessary to use glasses.

Bordeaux liquid.

A mixture of a solution of copper sulphate and milk of lime. Usually used in 1% concentration to combat scab, fruit rot and other fungal diseases.

To prepare 50 liters of 1% Bordeaux liquid, you need to have a wooden barrel with a capacity of at least 60 liters and two wooden barrels. A little hot water is poured into one barrel and dissolved in 0.5 kg of copper sulfate, after which so much cold water is added to obtain 25 liters of solution.

In the second barrel, 0.5 kg of lime is quenched with a small amount of water and water is also added to obtain 25 liters of milk of lime. The milk of lime is poured through a sparse cloth into a barrel, and then a solution of copper sulfate is poured into it, thoroughly mixing the liquid. Both solutions must be cold before joining.

It is impossible to prepare Bordeaux liquid in metal utensils.

Properly prepared Bordeaux liquid should have a sky-blue color and a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, which is checked with indicator papers.

For retail sale, dry Bordeaux mixture is produced in packs weighing 300, 600 and 900 g, in which there are bags of copper sulfate and lime, as well as indicator papers to check the quality of the prepared liquid. Less poisonous for people.

May cause leaf scorch, brown mesh on fruits and cracking, especially in wet and cool weather.

Soda ash, or linen, soda (sodium carbonate).

White crystalline powder, soluble in water. It is used to combat powdery mildew of gooseberries and currants in the form of a 0.5% solution (50 g per 10 liters of water and the same amount of soap). To prepare the solution, dilute soap in soft water and add soda, previously dissolved in a small amount of water. Virtually harmless to humans.

Copper-soap emulsion.

It is used to combat gooseberry powdery mildew and strawberry powdery mildew. To prepare 10 liters of working solution in 9 liters of rain or soft water, dissolve 150 - 200 g of soap.

Separately, 5-10 g of copper sulfate are dissolved in 1 liter of water in a glass or earthenware dish. Then the copper sulphate solution is poured in a thin stream into the soap solution with constant stirring. A properly prepared emulsion should have a greenish color and not form flakes.

Copper chloride.

Light green powder, insoluble in water, substitute for Bordeaux liquid. Contains 50 - 9% of the active principle and forms stable aqueous suspensions. It is used at a concentration of 0.3 - 0.5% (with a content of 90% of the active substance, take 30 g of the drug per 10 liters of water).

The drug in recommended concentrations usually does not cause plant burns (burns are possible in years with a wet cold summer) and is convenient for preparing a suspension, which compares favorably with Bordeaux liquid; relatively well retained on plants.

Suspension of copper oxychloride can be used in conjunction with most pesticides. Copper oxychloride must not be mixed with preparations containing lime.

Medium toxic for humans.

Phthalan - 50%

Wettable powder, white or yellowish. It is used against apple and pear scab and other fungal diseases at a concentration of 0.5% (50 g per 10 l of water).

It is also effective against powdery mildew of apple trees. The drug can be used in conjunction with most insecticides, with the exception of alkaline ones. Phthalan should not be used in combination with mineral oil emulsions and shortly after their application on plants.

Not toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals.

Captan - 50%

Gray wettable powder with an unpleasant odor. Substitute for Bordeaux liquid in the fight against scab and leaf spot of apple and pear. Captan is used at a concentration of 0.5% (50 g per 10 liters of water).

Its suspensions do not burn plant leaves. Burns are possible only if captan is used in a mixture with mineral oil emulsions or within 10-15 days before or after their use.

Captan should not be used together with alkaline formulations and emulsions of mineral oils. For humans and warm-blooded animals, captan is not toxic, but can irritate mucous membranes and skin.

Pesticides for the control of mouse-like rodents.

Krysid and bacterial preparations can be used against mouse-like rodents (mice and voles).

ratsid- fine-crystalline powder of gray or gray-brown color, with a slight odor.

Does not dissolve in water. They are used for the preparation of poisoned baits in the fight against house rats (10 g of rats are taken for 1 kg of bread or porridge, and in the fight against mice - 5 g). Toxic to humans and domestic animals.

bacterial preparations.

Against mouse-like rodents that damage plants, Prozorov's (No. 5170), Isachenko, Merezhkovsky's preparations are used. They are made by veterinary and bacteriological laboratories.

Liquid bacterial preparations and preparations on special media are used with the addition of bait products, and preparations on grain are immediately laid out in rodent burrows.

When used correctly, these bacterial preparations are not dangerous to humans and pets.

Pesticides allowed for use in collective and home gardens, subject to the performance of work by special plant protection organizations (stations, detachments, etc.)

DNOC (selinon, DINOC)

Yellow powder, soluble in water, contains 40% active ingredient.

It is used in the spring before the buds of trees and shrubs bloom against eggs of the apple sucker, aphids, comma and willow scale insects, larvae of the acacia false scale, pear scab, as well as to combat the wintering stages of anthracnose of berry crops, American gooseberry powdery mildew, and partially apple scab. Working concentration 0.5 - 1% (50 - 100 g per 10 liters of water).

To prepare a solution, a dose of pesticide is first dissolved in a small amount of water, and then poured into a barrel of water, where a working solution is prepared, mixing well.

The drug is very toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals. If it comes into contact with the skin, it irritates and stains it yellow for several days, strongly stains clothes. When spraying, it is necessary to protect the respiratory organs and exposed parts of the body from splashes.

30% and 50% DDT wettable powders

White or gray powders with a slight characteristic odor. They do not dissolve in water, but form a stable suspension. It is used against leaf-damaging caterpillars, sawflies, weevils, apple codling moth, gooseberry moth and other gnawing pests.

Used exclusively for spraying plants, unsuitable for dusting.

Working concentration 0.4 - 0.7% (40 - 70 g per 10 l of water). To prepare a suspension, a dose of powder is triturated in a small amount of water to a creamy state and poured into a barrel of water, where a working liquid is prepared, mixing well.

Poisonous to humans and warm-blooded animals.

Cineb (thiecin) - 50%

Light gray wettable powder, substitute for Bordeaux mixture. Zinc preparation.

Used to combat scab and other fungal diseases of fruit and berry plants at a concentration of 0.4 - 0.5% (40 - 50 g per 10 liters of water) within the time limits established for the use of Bordeaux mixture. Zineb suspensions can be combined with organophosphorus and organochlorine pesticides.

Pay attention to this:

As you know, for the effective fruiting of trees, it is necessary to provide them with proper care. In particular, it is necessary to spray the garden in early spring and autumn, and in some cases in summer. In this article, we will consider the purposes for which spraying is performed, what preparations are used for this, and how this process occurs.

Spray seasons

It is impossible to accurately name the timing of spraying, as they depend on the following factors:

• The climate zone in which the garden is located.
• Vegetative processes of trees.

Early spring spraying is carried out immediately after the plants wake up from winter sleep. The last spraying is carried out in the fall after leaf fall. Next, consider the features of spraying at different times.

Note!
Spraying can only be done in calm weather.

First half of spring

To protect plants from pests and diseases, they are sprayed before the activation of vegetation processes, i. at the beginning of the spring. Proper selection of fungicides will get rid of most of the pests that could successfully overwinter in tree shoots or bark.

In addition, this procedure will become a reliable prevention against various diseases. Spraying garden trees before bud break is carried out with copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid.

These drugs serve as prevention against a number of diseases:

• scab;
• Moniliosa;
• Spotting;
• coccomycosis;
• Clasteriosporiosis, etc.

In addition, these fungicides kill hatching larvae from eggs laid by insect pests. Some types of trees can also be sprinkled with iron vitriol, as it performs the same functions as copper sulfate, but also saturates the plants with iron.

In particular, this element is especially important for normal development and growth, which, in addition to the apple tree itself, includes the following plants:

• Pear;
• Hawthorn;
• Rowan;
• Iva etc.

Spraying garden plants during this period is carried out twice:

• "Along the green cone" - before the flowers begin to bloom (unopened buds resemble cones). Usually, this procedure is the prevention of diseases such as powdery mildew and spotting.
• As a rule, the trees are sprayed a second time in the spring with urea, during the so-called "bud isolation". This allows you to kill the larvae of most insects.

The next spraying is done after the plants have faded.

Advice!
Often, instead of urea, nitrofen is used to spray the garden.
This drug is also very effective in controlling insect pests and certain types of diseases.

second half of spring

After all the flower petals have fallen, it is necessary to perform the final spring spraying. Moreover, the drug is selected depending on the type of tree:

Wood	Preparations
Pear and apple tree	Preparations against scab and other spotty diseases are used, for example, you can use: Vectru; Rubigan; Impact; Speed, etc.
Apricot	To prevent monilial burns or perforated spotting, trees should be treated with Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol.
Peach	The greatest danger is clasterosporiasis, leaf curl and codling moth caterpillars. Therefore, plants should be treated with copper-based fungicides, as well as insecticides such as Stefesin or Decis.
Plum	As a rule, caterpillars of the codling moth, as well as aphids and mites, bring lesions. In addition, polystigmosis and moniliosis are common diseases. Therefore, the following poisons can be selected for spraying: Zolon; Dandim; Fufanon.
Sweet cherry and cherry	Such plants are affected by coccomycosis and clasterosporiasis, as well as some pests. Therefore, the treatment can be performed with the following active substances: Copper chloride with the addition of poisons; Topsin.

Note!
It is necessary to spray the entire garden, and not individual types of trees.

In addition, to prevent fungal diseases and tick infestation, gardens are sprayed with carbamide or a solution of DDT powder.

Summer

In summer, as a rule, do-it-yourself gardening is done with urea. This fungicide not only kills many insects, but also saturates the trees with nitrogen. The procedure in the hot season is carried out several times.

The treatment of young plants is usually performed with folk remedies, as they are completely safe. For example, against aphids use tobacco tincture or other strong-smelling liquid.

Autumn

In autumn, trees are sprayed twice:

• At the beginning of autumn - urea;
• After leaf fall - with special preparations that prevent putrefactive processes.

I must say that it is not necessary to purchase preparations for the second spraying, since you can make them at home.

The instruction looks like this:

• 300 grams of copper sulfate must be dissolved in three liters of water;
• Then 400g of fluffy lime should be mixed with 10 liters of water;
• While stirring the lime mortar, a solution of copper sulfate should be poured into it in a thin stream.
• The resulting composition must be filtered through gauze folded several times.

Note!
Regardless of which preparation will be used to spray the garden, this procedure must be performed in dry weather.

This solution has a soft blue color and will stain the trees for a while, however, the paint will wash off over time. The price of such a drug will be significantly lower than the purchased product, and the effectiveness is the same.

Spray technology

The spraying process itself is quite simple, however, requiring patience and the presence of the following:

• Special piston-type pump for processing trees or compressor;
• Respiratory mask;
• Rubber gloves;
• Glasses;
• Substances for the treatment of trees.

In the photo - a respirator for respiratory protection

Spray technology is as follows:

• If the procedure is performed in the spring, it is necessary to treat the tree trunk with a stiff brush to remove moss or lichen. This procedure will lead to the activation of cells and the growth of shoots.
• Shake the solution well before use. This procedure must be repeated periodically during the spraying process.
• Then, using a compressor or pump, spray the fungicide evenly onto the tree. It is necessary to process all parts of the plant, in particular, the leaves are sprayed from both sides. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the preparations lie down with uniform dew, for this the tip of the tool must be kept at a distance of about 80 centimeters from the leaves.
• After completion of work it is necessary to wash the device. Protective elements (goggles, gloves and respirator) must not be removed.
Excellent article 0

The manufacturer in the characteristic gives the following description.

1. Nitrofen is a thick brown pasty substance.
2. A distinctive feature is good solubility in water.
3. Toxicity: poisonous components do not affect humans, animals and birds.
4. It is recommended to use in advance, before the leaves appear. It is forbidden to apply on the foliage.
5. Recommended application time: early spring or late autumn (after leaf fall)
6. Used against: scab of various types, moss, lichens
7. Efficiency in the destruction of ticks, scale insects, leafworms and other pests of the garden was noted.

Nitrofen is used as a solution. 200 g of paste is dissolved in 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is treated with trunks and branches of shrubs and trees.

For tillage and tree trunks, a solution of a higher concentration is created: 300 g of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water.

Practical application in horticulture

For high-quality processing of a fruit tree, 10 ... 25 liters of the finished solution will be required. Adjust the atomizer to obtain a dense mist from the nozzle. Each branch is treated twice, allowing the first portion to be absorbed.

Treatment of the near-stem circle with a radius of 3 ... 4 m will require 10 ... 20 liters of the dissolved preparation. It is advisable to carry out a double treatment of each area, changing the direction of the spray from the sprayer.

When processing bushes (concentration: per 10 l of water 150 g of Nitrofen) of currants, raspberries and gooseberries, the consumption is 3 ... 5 l. It is also necessary to apply an insecticide to the soil within a radius of 1.5 ... 2.0 m from the bush. It effectively fights powdery mildew, aphids, scab, anthracnose and other berry pests.

Many vegetable growers note the effectiveness of using garden strawberries. A solution of 150 ml of the drug dissolved in 10 liters of water is used. Positive results were obtained against gray rot, powdery mildew, leaf spot.

Processing is carried out in the spring, approximately at the beginning of April, after the snow melts. Plants and the soil around them are cultivated.

Interesting video on the topic:

Use in the garden

Interesting results were obtained by gardeners. When processing strawberries, part of the drug got on wood lice and colza. At first, there were no manifestations. But two days later, the sight of weeds caught my attention. They sharply withered, began to turn yellow, although such weeds located five meters away played with bright greenery.

It was decided to test the action of Nitrofen against weeds. A 1.5% solution was prepared in an amount of 20 liters. He processed a plot of 18x36 m.

The snow that fell did not allow seeing the result after two days, but after the snow melted after four days, it turned out that all weeds were dying out. One of the worst weeds - wood lice was defeated quite easily.

In the same spring, the entire plot (6.5 acres) was processed until leaves appeared on shrubs and trees. The woodlouse disappeared for three years. Later, she was again brought into the territory with shoes, visiting neighbors.

Important! Insecticide "Nitrofen" should be used only before the appearance of leaves on fruit and berry plants.

Safety precautions when using the insecticide "Nitrofen"

When working with pesticides, it is necessary to follow a number of specific rules so as not to get poisoned yourself, and also not to expose others to the harmful effects:

1. Processing should be carried out only in dry, calm weather, since the flying preparation can be detrimental to others.
2. When working, use a disposable polyethylene raincoat with a hood (sold in the Sadovod and Semena retail chains). After completing the procedure, it must be rolled up, placed in a plastic bag and disposed of.
3. The respirator will protect the respiratory system, so use during the entire time of the use of the poisonous substance.
4. Rubber boots and gloves will protect the gardener's feet and hands.
5. Be sure to use protective goggles so that the sprayed product does not get into your eyes.
6. DO NOT SMOKE! When doing work!
7. After completing the treatment, rinse the garden sprayer, it is advisable for the gardener himself to take a shower.

Feedback on the use of the insecticide "Nitrofen"

A lot of feedback on the use of this drug was received in the editorial office "Homestead"

Viktor Smetanin (retired, Ryazan region)

Acquired a plot near the regional center. A large orchard that has not undergone any agrotechnical measures for the last ten years.

After clearing the territory, it turned out that berry bushes and fruit trees were affected by a whole range of infections. There were scale insects, scab, powdery mildew and a dozen more different injuries.

There was even a desire to completely cut down the old trees and plant a new garden. But the hand was not raised, as several valuable shrubs and fruit plantations were of particular value. It was not possible to find analogues.

It was decided to carry out a complete processing of the entire garden. Work began in mid-October 2016. We prepared a solution based on "Nitrofen" and carried out a complete treatment of all plants available on a plot of 15 acres.

In the spring at the beginning of April, we decided to repeat the treatment. Sprayed only apple trees, cherries and sweet cherries. They sprayed it again, as they noticed a continuous coating of scale insects on the bark, the vegetation developed as expected.

We noticed that currants, gooseberries and raspberries showed no signs of infection. Apples, cherries and sweet cherries gave excellent color. Part of the solution fell on the grass. She withered in the spring. She was dug up.

From each apple tree in late summer and early spring, an average of 45 ... 55 kg of apples was received. A bucket of berries was collected from each cherry. Two cherry trees gave almost three buckets of cherries. The yield of currants and gooseberries was at its best.

The only disappointment was the raspberry, it degenerated, they collected only 7 kg of berries. We decided to replace the raspberry bushes with new plantings elsewhere.

Overall, Nitrofen has been a great help. But according to the instructions, it is recommended to reapply every three years. Let's do it again in 2019.

Olga Ivanovna Alekseeva (pensioner, Borisov)

I have been gardening and horticulture almost all my life. Retirement has given me more time to work on my garden plot. Now I live on earth all year round.

The garden was started by my grandfather, who planted the first trees in the early fifties of the last century. Some of the plantings have already been replaced. But there are especially valuable varieties that we try to cultivate further.

Husband and son carry out anti-aging pruning, apple trees (my peers) continue to delight almost every year with a bountiful harvest of fruits (Simirenko, Antonovka, Golden Grimo, Parmen Summer).

In recent years, insecticides have been of great help to us, we use them strictly according to the instructions. Last year, in the fall, the garden was treated with Nitrofen.

A year has passed, and I can sum up.

I forgot what a leaflet is. The scab bypasses my garden. Powdery mildew did not appear in the garden or in the garden. I am satisfied with the result of using Nitrofen.

Pripishnyuk Pavel Petrovich (engineer, Penza region)

More than twenty years have passed since I received the land for construction. He grew his own garden, which he dreamed of since childhood. There are beautiful apple trees, cherries and sweet cherries grow, even a pear has found a place in my garden.

The pride of my wife is garden strawberries. Each she gives several buckets of amazingly sweet berries. Sandy soil in our area is best suited for this berry.

The main concern is to regularly move the beds to a new place, otherwise the strawberries begin to degenerate. Small pests appear, ready to feast on our delicious berry.

Three years ago there was a lot of dampness, the summer turned out to be cool. Scab clung to the trees. Leaf rollers ruined several bushes and trees. Even in the beds it became uncomfortable. There powdery mildew began to seek its prey. It was necessary to urgently find a means of combating such a scourge.

On the advice of a friend, in the fall, I treated all the trees and shrubs with Nitrofen. We've been waiting for spring for a long time. I decided to re-use Nitrofen in the garden, they recommended processing strawberries, so I decided to experiment. My wife was against it (it happens to women, they don't believe modern science).

In the spring, before processing, I walked with a metal brush. I cleaned the lichens and moss, which I did not like even in the fall. I decided to give the drug the opportunity to penetrate where it did not get during the autumn processing. At the same time, I sawed out dry branches and rejuvenated the crown on several trees.

But in the summer they noticed that strawberries grow better than in the past. She is not plagued by regular diseases that met before. It was not necessary to use Bordeaux mixture to keep the bushes in good shape.

The garden bloomed as if it had forgotten about all diseases. Each tree gave large beautiful fruits. I specially looked closely, looked for where the lichens could hide, but did not find it.

It was not possible to use the entire harvest. Wholesalers arrived and bought up almost half a ton of apples. Unfortunately, they did not pay generously - tight-fisted modern nouveaux riches.

One thing must be said for sure. Nitrofen is a salvation for the garden and vegetable garden.

Early spring work to protect the garden lead from mid-February - early March until bud break. The relatively high temperature during the day at this time of the year can drop sharply at night. On a sunny day at the end of February, the surface temperature of the bark on a trunk in the sun on the southwestern side is 12 -15 ° higher than on the shaded northeastern side. If the boles and uterine branches are whitewashed with a 20% lime solution (2 kg of lime per 10 liters of water) since autumn, then the difference in heating does not exceed 3-5 °.

The importance of this protective measure is obvious. After all, overheating and thawing of the bark during the day, followed by freezing at night, can cause bark burns. More often this (as well as freezing) occurs in lowlands and in plantations on the lower part of the southern slopes.

Burns appear in the form of various kinds of spots, usually on the southwestern side of the tree. The bark in places of damage becomes somewhat depressed and differs in color. Wounds are formed through which pathogens of black cancer, cytosporosis and a number of other diseases of boles and skeletal branches mainly penetrate into the plant.

Early spring burns can capture fairly large areas of the bark, causing the death of skeletal branches, and sometimes the entire plant. That is why, in the very first days of spring thaws, restore the whitewash if it turned out to be broken.

Take care of gardeners' assistants - insectivorous birds: tits, nuthatches, pikas, living all year round in gardens, parks, forests. After all, the great tit, for example, during the day eats as many insects as it weighs itself.

Attract tits, starlings, flycatchers, redstarts and other birds to gardens by hanging artificial nests. They are attached to buildings or poles at a height of 3-6 m. Place titmice at a distance of 15-20 m from one another. Birdhouses can be placed in groups.

To attract birds it is advisable to plant a hedge of well-branched shrubs along the fence: yellow acacia, gooseberry, wild rose.

Many pests and pathogens of plants overwinter on weakened branches. Therefore, in time, remove dying and damaged branches, take them out of the garden and burn them. Clean the cuts and cover with garden pitch or oil paint on natural drying oil.

If during the winter you did not remove and destroy cobweb nests from dry leaves with golden tail and hawthorn caterpillars, as well as mummified (dried) fruits affected by fruit rot, this work should also be done in early spring.

The success of pest and disease control in the garden depends mainly on the timely and correct use of chemical and biological plant protection products. However, this does not mean that it is necessary to spray the garden with preparations every year according to an established scheme.

When planning control measures, proceed from the degree of infestation of plants with pests and the expected occurrence of diseases. Do not use chemicals "just in case".

Before bud break, when the average daily air temperature reaches 5 °, it is time for the first spraying of fruit and berry plantations. It is directed against Californian and other species of scale insects wintering on the bark of trees, apple sucker eggs, fruit mites, various types of aphids, apple moth caterpillars, against pathogens - apple and pear scab, leaf spot, as well as against mosses and lichens.

Before bud break in gardens, nitrafen, preparation No. 30 and its analogues, oleocuprite, iron and copper sulfate can be used.

Inexperienced gardeners mistakenly believe that chemical plant protection products recommended for early spring spraying of gardens are equally effective against all types of wintering pests in the garden. This is far from true.

Preparation number 30(and its analogues) - 76% oil-oil emulsion - highly effective against California scale insects and other types of scale insects wintering in the larval stage, and females, against false scale insects and eggs of fruit mites. The drug is less effective in the fight against eggs of aphids, suckers, scale insects, leafworms, apple moth caterpillars located under the shields. It does not give the desired effect in the fight against pathogens of plant diseases.

It is used at a concentration of 3% (300 g per 10 liters of water) for spraying fruit (apple, pear, cherry and plum) trees and berry bushes (gooseberries, currants, raspberries), as well as ornamental plants.

60% nitrafen paste It is used to combat stages of scale insects, aphids, mites, leafworms, moths that hibernate on the bark of trees and shrubs, as well as on fallen leaves with scab and other pathogens.

When spraying fruit trees, nitrafen is used at a concentration of 3% (300 g per 10 l of water), and berry bushes and strawberries 2% (200 g per 10 l of water).

To destroy pathogens and pears in fallen leaves in spring, instead of nitrafen, urea can be used at a concentration of 7% (700 g per 10 l of water), the solution flow rate is 25 l per 100 m 2. To avoid burns of the bark, do not allow the urea solution to get on the branches.

Oleocuprite- the preparation contains petroleum oil (73%) and copper naphthenate (15%). It is used by spraying apple trees before bud break to control the eggs of aphids, suckers, mites, as well as against scab and other blotches. The concentration of the working solution is 4% (400 g per 10 l of water).

blue vitriol- 98% soluble powder - is used before bud break to combat pathogens of scab, various leaf spots of apple and pear, clasterosporia, and other spots of stone fruit trees, anthracnose, septoria and other spots of gooseberries and currants. The concentration of the working solution is 1% (100 g per 10 l of water).

inkstone- 53% soluble powder - used for spraying apple trees, pears and the soil under them before the start of the growing season, as well as for combating diseases of stems and uterine branches, including moss and lichen control. To a certain extent, it inhibits the development of scab, other spots and moniliosis. The concentration of the working solution is 2-3% (200-300 g per 10 liters of water).

Spraying of trees and shrubs before bud break is carried out by washing, since only with abundant wetting of the branches can pests and spores of pathogens be destroyed, most of which hibernate in bark cracks and other secluded places.

Even with very careful spraying, part of the working solution goes to the side, therefore, if strawberries, perennial vegetables and flowers are planted in the aisles of the garden, in order to avoid burning the growing leaves during operation, they should be covered with a synthetic film or other dense material, and the liquid accumulated on the coatings should be drained on the ground without falling on cultivated plants.

On berry crops, the vegetation of berry crops begins early; in a number of varieties, buds bloom immediately after the snow melts.

Cut and burn broken, weakened branches in early spring. They may contain glass caterpillars, stem gall midges and some other pests. Clean the cuts of large branches and grease with garden pitch or oil paint prepared on natural drying oil.

At the same time, cut and burn the ends of the affected gooseberry and currant shoots. They become black, hook-shaped, dried up. When cutting into 1 - 2 buds, also capture the apparently healthy part, since the mycelium of the fungus usually penetrates into them.

Before bud break on the branches of blackcurrant (rarely red), abnormally overgrown, as if swollen, buds are clearly visible. In the future, they become somewhat similar to small heads of cabbage and bloom poorly. Swollen buds are affected by currant. If you cut an unnaturally overgrown kidney and examine it with a magnifying glass, then inside you can see whitish pests, up to 0.2 mm long, resembling crustaceans. These are females of the currant bud mite, one of the dangerous pests of blackcurrant. In each affected kidney - several thousand females. Currant bud mite can transfer from diseased bushes to healthy mycoplasmal currant disease - terry.

Cut off swollen buds and destroy. If the bush is heavily infected, it is advisable to cut out individual damaged branches without breaking off the buds, take them out of the garden and burn them. From bushes infected with mites, cuttings should not be harvested.

To curb the development of fungal diseases and destroy the eggs of aphids, scale insects and false scale insects wintering on the bark of branches, sprinkle berry bushes with a solution of nitrafen (200 g per 10 l of water) before bud break. Against scale insects and false scale insects, you can also use preparation No. 30 and its analogues at this time (300 g per 10 l of water), and to curb the development of diseases - copper sulfate (100 g per 10 l of water) or iron sulfate (200 - 300 g per 10 liters of water).

After the snow melts, clean the strawberries from dry and diseased leaves on which spores of various fungal diseases overwinter, burn them or place them in a compost heap, covering them with a layer of earth or peat.

Then it is advisable to sprinkle strawberries with a 2% solution of nitrafen (200 g per 10 liters of water) to curb the development of white and brown spots and, to a certain extent, gray rot.

Nitrafen has herbicidal properties- burns the green organs of plants, so spraying is carried out before the growth of new leaves begins. Instead, against the listed strawberry diseases, you can use 3% Bordeaux liquid (300 g of copper sulfate and the same amount of lime per 10 liters of water).

Nitrafen and Bordeaux liquid in the indicated concentrations before bud break are also used to spray raspberries against various fungal diseases.

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