Insulation of the cornice, how to properly close the contour of the roof and wall. Errors in roof insulation and their correction The need for roof insulation

Roof insulation from the inside is the best option for work for several reasons.


Roof insulation is done only for residential attic spaces, due to this, heat losses are significantly reduced and living comfort is increased. Today, companies produce a wide range of materials for insulation, all of which have both positive and negative sides. When choosing a specific insulation, it is important to know its features and take into account the characteristics of the building truss system.

There are many names of materials for insulation, but they are all divided into two large groups.

Table. Roof insulation groups.

Name of heatersOperational and Physical Characteristics

This group includes mineral wool from basalt, glass wool from recycled glass and ecowool from waste paper. Wool insulation can be pressed in the form of mats of standard sizes or rolled. There are options for spraying liquid ecowool. In terms of thermal conductivity and weight, the listed species almost do not differ from each other. The most expensive mineral wool.

Styrofoam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, etc. All these heaters are made on the basis of the same polymer, they differ in production technology and some additives. Most often they have the form of plates of various thicknesses and sizes, they can differ significantly in terms of physical strength. The thermal conductivity is almost the same, slight fluctuations in practice have no effect. The price range is large. Can be used in liquid form (sprayed) or as slabs.

For example, we will consider the two most common options for roof insulation from the inside. Examples are not only budgetary, but also effective. The process is divided into several stages, the final quality of the work depends on the correct implementation of each of them.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

Inspection of the truss system and roofing

A very important stage of preparation for warming. Make an audit of all elements of the roofing system, check the condition of the roof covering. If problems are found, they must be fixed immediately.

Measure the distance between the rafter legs, this will help you navigate the choice of insulation. The fact is that all heaters have standard dimensions in width. This simplifies and speeds up assembly work and reduces waste. The width of the insulation is 60 cm, but, unfortunately, some manufacturers allow fluctuations in one direction or another by several centimeters. The distance between the rafter legs should be within 56–57 cm. In practice, such correct roofs can rarely be found.

See if a windscreen is installed between the roof and the attic, if it has air vents for natural ventilation. This is very important in cases where insulation is planned to be done with mineral wool.

Prices for material for vapor barrier

Vapor barrier material

Selection and purchase of materials

The most commonly used materials for roof insulation are mineral wool and polystyrene foam, and we will focus on them in detail. If you have a simple gable roof, then its insulation is not very difficult technologically. A completely different situation is with a broken or hipped roof. These structures have many different stops, runs, ties and other elements that reinforce the truss system. During insulation, you have to cut the mineral wool or polystyrene, make various bends and bends. As a result, the complexity of the work increases and the amount of waste increases.

But this is not all the problems. Complicated roofs can never be hermetically sealed with a vapor barrier layer, there will always be places through which moist air enters the insulation. For mineral wool, this is a very unpleasant phenomenon. Experienced builders recommend insulating complex roofs with polystyrene foam, and not taking risks with mineral wool. Wet wool not only almost completely loses its heat-saving abilities, but also accelerates the putrefactive processes of the wooden structures of the truss system.

Roof insulation work

The technology of work largely depends on the material chosen, but for all cases there are general tips.


If it is possible to work with an assistant - excellent, the warming process will go much faster. There is no such possibility - it's okay, all the work can be done independently.

Roof insulation plays a huge role in the completion of construction work. Having built a house or cottage, you have to think about how to make the building as comfortable, warm and cozy as possible. Regardless of whether there will be accommodation in the attic or not, it is necessary to insulate the roof in any case. This will reduce heat loss and contribute to energy saving.

Do-it-yourself roof insulation

It is not necessary to carry out work on roof insulation with the help of a specialist, everything can be done with your own hands. The whole process should begin with the selection of the necessary materials and the creation of a plan and scheme of work. Any roof consists of external (roof) and internal (overlapping and truss frame) parts.

All insulation work is carried out only after checking these components, and if necessary, they are repaired. Then remove excess moisture and get rid of dampness and mold.

To prevent bacterial damage to wooden structures, the inner surface of the roof is treated with an antiseptic, and to protect metal structures from rust, such surfaces are treated with anti-corrosion compounds.

Materials for insulation

Modern manufacturers offer a wide range of materials for roof insulation. The most popular are:

  • Mineral wool (fiberglass, stone slabs);
  • extruded polystyrene foam;
  • Polyurethane foam.

The material to dwell on is determined by the features of the roof. For example, pitched roofs are best insulated with fiberglass.

Fiberglass

This material has excellent heat-insulating and sound-insulating properties. Also, fiberglass is durable, the service life reaches fifty years, it is fire resistant and vapor permeable. And, of course, the price, the purchase of such material is a very inexpensive pleasure.

The most popular materials in use are mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. This popularity is due to the ease of manipulation with them.

Mineral wool

Depending on the initial type of material (stone or glass), mineral wool is divided into two types:

– the fibrous structure of the material, formed during the melting of small particles of rock, as well as various slags and mixtures obtained in industrial metallurgy, make the product truly unique.

The material is not afraid of high temperatures, and is also sufficiently resistant to aggressive chemicals.


glass wool- heat-insulating material having air fibers, which have special strength. The product is obtained by melting ordinary glass. Like stone wool, the insulation has a high resistance to chemical products and does not burn.

The thermal conductivity of glass wool is 0.05 W/m°C at 25°C. During operation, glass wool practically does not shrink, and its fibrous structure, even after a long period of time, remains the same elastic and elastic.

Mineral wool has excellent characteristics in the following areas:

  • Low thermal conductivity;
  • Excellent sound insulation;
  • Fire resistance, which is very important for the roof material;
  • High environmental friendliness and durability.

Styrofoam and foam

Both heaters have a fairly low specific gravity, so their use does not make the roof heavier, and also does not provide for the additional use of a vapor-insulating material, since neither foam nor absorb moisture.

polyurethane foam

One of the modern materials is.

It does not need to be glued or nailed to the surface, it is applied by spraying onto it. This material has excellent adhesion to surfaces and the result is a durable seamless construction that does not allow cold or moisture to pass through.

Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof

When the materials are selected, you can go directly to the process of laying the material. The peculiarity of such a process depends on the design of the roof and the future use of the attic.

If the use of the attic as a living space is not provided, then the insulation material is laid on the floor of the attic between the logs, and not between the roof rafters. A membrane is laid on top to improve vapor permeability, then it can be covered with any floor covering.

To exclude the formation of the appearance of "cold bridges", the insulation must adhere to the lags as tightly as possible. To do this, when cutting insulation, its size must be done on 1-2 cm. wider than the distance between the lags.

Attic insulation from the inside

If it is decided to equip the attic for living quarters, you should insulate the roof with your own hands using a different technology:

  1. Initially, a waterproofing layer is laid to protect the insulating material from getting wet. To do this, a waterproofing membrane is laid on top of the crate and fixed with bars of the counter-crate;
  2. Then the insulation itself is laid between the rafters. In order to avoid the formation of gaps, during installation, the same technology should be followed as when insulating the ceiling - the insulation should be wider by 1-2 cm.
  3. As a vapor-permeable layer, a vapor barrier film is attached over the insulation, at the joints, it is overlapped;
  4. The film is fixed on top with bars, which will serve as the basis for finishing.

How and how to insulate a flat roof

Warming a flat roof goes a little differently. The beginning of work is the definition of the purpose of the premises. The proposed use of the attic for a gym or some other place for entertainment suggests that the roof must be really strong in order to withstand serious loads.

  1. To form a small roof slope, a cement screed is made on a reinforced concrete slab;
  2. Then, as in the case of a pitched roof, a waterproofing layer is laid;
  3. Upon completion of these works, everything is covered from above with a layer of heat-insulating material (polystyrene, stone wool, extruded polystyrene foam, etc.), on top of which a layer of fiberglass or geotextile is laid.
  4. And the final stage is the backfilling of pebbles or a layer of gravel and the subsequent laying of floor or paving slabs.

If there is no living space under the roof, then the vapor barrier layer and insulation are laid in the attic, and the waterproofing layer under the roofing material. And in the case of complete non-use of the attic space of a flat roof, insulation is carried out either from the inside or from the outside.

Having insulated the roof, you will receive not only additional square meters, but also reliable protection for the house from severe frosts in winter and sultry heat in summer.

Warming the roof of a wooden house is one of the key stages of construction. The roof is exposed to the environment more than other structural elements, therefore, without high-quality insulation, you can forget about comfortable living in the house.

The lack of high-quality insulation allows the cold to freely penetrate into the living quarters, so the cost of heating in the winter increases to incredible values. To avoid these problems, you need to know how to insulate the roof in a wooden house with your own hands and what materials to choose for the job.

Why is it necessary to insulate the roof?

For novice masters, the goals of roof insulation are not entirely clear. At first glance, this is not at all a prerequisite, especially if the attic is non-residential and is used to store unnecessary things. In such cases, an air pocket is formed between the roof and the rooms, which is able to trap cold air flows.

In addition, wood has relatively good thermal insulation properties, therefore, it is not necessary to bear additional costs for insulation. This is a common misconception.

Note! The main reason for roof insulation is to reduce heating costs in winter.

Of course, an air pocket in the attic will not allow cold air to penetrate inside, but it also does not create obstacles for the heat to escape from the living quarters.

Temperature fluctuations lead to the formation of condensate on the internal surfaces and rafters. Constant moisture and dampness is a favorable environment for the development of fungus and mold. These harmful microorganisms are able to turn a reliable house into a dilapidated structure in a short time. It is noteworthy that it is almost impossible to remove the fungus after its appearance on wooden surfaces.

The key step in roof insulation is the choice of thermal insulation material. It is necessary to figure out what options for buying a modern market can offer.

The choice of insulation

It is noteworthy, but when choosing a suitable material, it is necessary to take into account not only the heat-insulating ability. Insulation should not contain and release toxic and chemically active substances. It should keep its shape well and not cause problems during processing and styling. Moreover, thermal insulation should not create loads on load-bearing structures. In private construction, several types of insulation are used.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is one of the most accessible and widespread insulating materials on the Russian construction market. It is produced in slabs or rolls, has a fibrous structure, which reliably isolates the interior from the sounds of the street. The advantages of mineral wool are that the material is resistant to temperature changes, does not support combustion, and does not attract rodents and other pests. For do-it-yourself insulation of the roof of a wooden house from the inside, this is the best option.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out the dependence on a humid environment and the need to install the crate. If the attic will be used as a residential attic, part of the internal space is hidden after the work is completed.

Expanded clay

This is a porous stone of artificial origin, which has excellent heat-insulating properties. The material is easy to install and does not create a load on the supporting structures and the base. However, expanded clay is more suitable for external insulation of the roof or walls, it is used for the floor. To create a quality insulating cake, you need a fairly thick layer, and this increases costs.

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene

Both materials are made from polystyrene granules and have an external similarity. Insulation is produced in the form of plates, which attract the attention of developers with their light weight and ease of installation. The difference between Styrofoam and Styrofoam lies in the production technology, which implies different characteristics and properties.

Styrofoam is obtained by processing polystyrene granules with steam, which connects the individual particles to each other, forming a porous structure. Expanded polystyrene is created by extrusion, which gives the material a higher density.

Both options are neutral to the effects of a humid environment, have specific low thermal conductivity. When choosing polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, do not forget that the material burns, attracts mice and rats, and can crumble over time, creating gaps in the thermal insulation of the roof.

Liquid polyurethane foam

This is a modern type of insulation, which is placed under pressure in liquid form. Thanks to this structure, polyurethane foam evenly fills the free space, forming a monolithic thermal insulation of the roof or walls without cold bridges. The material is non-combustible, does not create additional loads on the floors and is neutral to a humid environment.

The disadvantages of liquid polyurethane foam include the impossibility of independent work and the cost of the material. However, the last nuance is justified by the durability and quality of thermal insulation.

Technology

Contrary to popular belief, it is better not to engage in insulation during the construction process. After completion of the work, the house undergoes shrinkage, which can provoke a slight deformation of all structural elements. As a result, gaps appear on the surface of the heat-insulating cake, which negatively affects the quality of the work performed. Professional builders recommend waiting for about a year and only after that engage in insulation. The process can be divided into several stages, which require detailed consideration.

Training

Self-insulation of the roof of a wooden house begins with an inspection of all structural elements. This is especially true for old buildings where the roof was leaking. During the inspection, it is necessary to pay attention to damp areas where traces of decay are visible or fungal spores are observed. Such elements are cleaned and processed with special compounds, if necessary, a complete replacement is carried out.

This rule cannot be ignored. With a lot of undeniable advantages, wood is very dependent on a humid environment, so if there are traces of rot on the surfaces, it makes no sense to engage in thermal insulation until such phenomena are completely eliminated. Dampness will gradually destroy the rafters and ceilings, which will at least lead to a violation of the thermal insulation layer.

Important! Ideally, when insulating a wooden roof with an antiseptic, all surfaces should be treated, paying special attention to areas closely adjacent to utilities.

About the benefits of hydro and vapor barrier

It is no secret that high-quality thermal insulation is a multilayer cake, where each element performs a strictly defined function. In the standard version, it looks like this:

  • waterproofing;
  • crate (if necessary);
  • insulation;
  • vapor barrier;
  • finishing.

The first layer is waterproofing. Here you can use an ordinary plastic film, which will perfectly cope with its task - it will protect the insulation from the effects of dampness.

Note! With prolonged contact with water, even a foam that is neutral to everything begins to absorb moisture.

Supersaturation leads to the separation of the compressed granules, followed by the destruction of the insulation board. They fix the waterproofing directly to the base, fixing it to the rafters with staples of a construction stapler. If the budget allows, you can purchase a superdiffusion membrane with a reflective layer. This is an expensive material, but it solves 3 problems at once: it protects against moisture, reflects thermal energy, and creates additional insulation and sound insulation.

Then the insulation is laid. The recommended thickness of the insulating layer varies between 10–25 mm, depending on the climatic features of the region. Ideally, the insulation fills the free space between the rafters with a dense layer. A small ventilation gap is usually left at the top of the roof, which will allow air to circulate and prevent condensation from forming inside the heat-insulating pie. We add that if mineral wool is used as a roof insulation, it cannot be used to close the electrical wiring.

The final layer is the vapor barrier. This is a film that is designed to retain warm, moisture-saturated air rising from living quarters. Here you can also use polyethylene, the joints of which are glued with construction tape. If the work is done correctly, the insulation is in a kind of waterproof cocoon, while the ventilation holes left do not interfere with the natural circulation of air. A topcoat is laid on top of the vapor barrier.

Final stage

If the attic will be used as a residential or utility room, it is recommended to perform floor insulation. The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

  • all gaps between the beams are sealed;
  • vapor barrier is laid;
  • insulation is being installed, usually mineral wool or polystyrene;
  • a layer of expanded clay is poured;
  • screed is poured.

A floor covering, such as linoleum, boards or laminate, is laid on top of the base.

Secrets of outdoor insulation

Thermal insulation can be placed inside or outside. Each of the work options has its own advantages and disadvantages.

For example, if thermal insulation is placed on the outer surface of the roof, the dew point shifts towards the street, therefore, there is no need to fear the appearance of condensate. However, the performance of such work directly depends on weather conditions, and only high-quality and, therefore, expensive materials are used for insulation.

  • insulation sheets are placed between the roof lags or expanded clay is poured;
  • waterproofing is laid;
  • installation of the final coating is carried out.
  • If a flat roof is insulated, the insulation sheets are placed at an angle of 5–7 degrees in two layers. As fasteners, only special self-tapping screws with wide caps are used so as not to push through the insulation. As a waterproofing, it is recommended to use folgoizol or bitumen-polymer compounds.

    Insulation of the roof from the inside is carried out not only in order to arrange an additional room in the attic, but also to maximize the preservation of heat throughout the house.

    If the building has a mansard roof, then the insulation is carried out directly on the roof itself, which is not only a roof for the future room, but also walls. If the structure or has one slope, then most often the thermal insulation is arranged in the attic floor.

    The third option of thermal insulation measures is used in regions with a harsh climate, where both the roof itself and the ceiling are insulated from the inside.

    Types of insulation used

    The modern building materials market offers a lot of types of heaters, of which you can choose suitable for any thermal insulation work.

    • Bulk materials are sawdust, expanded clay of various fractions, slag, dry leaves or needles. These heaters are used for backfilling in the attic floor, and they perfectly protect the lower rooms of the house from the penetration of cold, but they will not be able to make the attic itself warm.

    • Mineral wool of various types, expanded polystyrene, penoflex and polyurethane foam are suitable for warming both attic floors and.

    All these materials are light enough, so they will not make the structure of the roof and the whole house heavier, but will make it much warmer. The technologies for installing heat-insulating materials differ from each other, so it is worth considering some of them.

    It should be noted that with the advent of auxiliary materials that facilitate the work process and are aimed at protecting the thermal insulation itself from external influences and maintaining their performance, it has become easier to carry out the installation process.

    Video: mineral wool is an excellent material for roof insulation

    Mineral wool prices

    Mineral wool

    Vapor barrier coatings

    One such material is vapor barrier film. It is designed to protect wooden structures and insulation from exposure to vapors that occur during temperature changes and lead to the formation of condensate. Excess moisture provokes the appearance of mold fungus, which destroys the structure of the tree, reduces the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation and contributes to the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the room.


    The vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the roof structure or ceiling before laying insulation materials.

    When using a vapor barrier film in a heated room, it is placed only under the finishing layer of the walls.

    To protect structures that are affected on the one hand by high temperatures, and on the other hand, low, the vapor barrier must be located on both sides. Such structures include wooden attic floors and roofing with its insulation. Concrete slabs do not require the installation of vapor barrier materials.


    The protective film can have different thicknesses and be of different types - a regular non-woven material or a foil membrane. In the case of using the latter on the structure of the attic floor, it is laid with foil down, as it reflects the heat rising from below to the ceiling, thereby preventing it from escaping. Between themselves, the sheets of material are fastened with foil tape, which helps to create a tight seal.


    Prices for different types of insulating films

    Insulating films

    Attic floor insulation

    Any warming measures are best carried out during the construction of a house, but, unfortunately, very often it is done only when they feel the winter cold.


    Before you fall asleep or lay the insulation, you need to carry out preparatory work. This is especially important if expanded clay of fine fraction, slag or sawdust is used.

    • Previously, when there were no modern auxiliary materials on sale, the plank attic floor was prepared as follows:

    - The boards fixed to the floor beams were carefully smeared with a solution of clay or lime, having a consistency of medium density. These natural materials create a good tightness of the ceiling, but at the same time they allow the whole structure to “breathe”.

    - After the clay or lime had completely dried, insulation work was carried out. Previously, slag, sawdust, dry leaves, or a mixture of these materials were mainly used for this. They fell asleep between the beams on prepared boards.

    It should be noted that the old traditional method is quite reliable, and therefore some builders even prefer it to modern ones to this day.

    • In modern construction, mainly for flooring under insulation, a special vapor barrier film is used. Her canvases are laid completely over the entire attic area with an overlap of 15-20 cm, deepening between the floor beams and fixing them on boards and beams. It is recommended to glue the canvases together with construction tape.

    The film will become an additional barrier to the exit of heat from the premises of the house through the ceiling, since the heated air, ascending, not finding a way out, will descend and remain inside the house.

    • Further, insulating material is poured onto the film, mineral wool is laid, expanded clay is poured, or the openings between the beams are filled with ecowool. You can also use the insulation used earlier - slag or sawdust.

    • To avoid the occurrence of cold bridges through wooden beams, they also need to fix a layer of thin insulation.

    • On top of the insulation material, another layer of vapor barrier is laid, in the same way as before - overlapped. This layer of film is fixed to the floor beams with slats, which are more often called counter-battens.
    • A coating of boards or thick plywood is laid on top.

    Sometimes the vapor barrier can also be fixed from the inside of the room to the wooden ceiling, but in this case it will need to be finished, for example, with plasterboard. They will level the ceiling and become another additional insulating layer.

    Insulation of roof slopes


    When insulating roof slopes, as well as when insulating floors, apply mineral wool and styrofoam, but mineral wool in this case, it is preferable, since it has almost zero flammability.

    If, nevertheless, it is decided to use foam, then it is recommended to purchase an extruded version. Although it has a slightly higher thermal conductivity, it is not combustible, and this is very important for wooden structures.

    Different systems are used to insulate roof slopes, but they always contain a layer of vapor barrier material, insulation, waterproofing and a counter-lattice.


    1. This diagram shows one of the options for an insulating "pie". It is used in the construction of the roof and roofing flooring.

    • It is laid on the rafter system. Usually, polyethylene is used for this layer, which has a high density (more than 200 microns thick) - it will also protect the roof not only from moisture, but from the penetration of wind under it. The film is laid with an overlap of 20 ÷ 25 cm and fixed to the rafters with staples and a stapler.
    • On top of the film, a counter-rail with a thickness of 5 ÷ 7 mm is fixed to each rafter. It is necessary so that the roofing material does not adhere directly to the waterproofing film, and there is a small distance between them for air circulation.
    • Further, if the roof slopes will be covered with soft roofing material, it is necessary to lay plywood on top of the counter-rails. In the case when slate or other rigid sheet material is used, a crate is arranged instead of plywood, the width between its slats is calculated from the length of the sheets of roofing material.
    • When the crate is ready, the roof is covered with the selected coating.

    After that, you can proceed to the insulation measures that are carried out from the inside, that is, from the attic.


    • Mats of mineral wool or other insulation are laid between the rafters. They should fit as tightly as possible between the elements of the wooden structure. Installation of mats is carried out, starting from the bottom, gradually rising to the ridge. The insulation should have the same thickness as the width of the rafters or slightly less. her, by about 10 ÷ 15 mm.
    • The laid insulation is tightened with a vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the rafters with slats. The film is also overlapped and glued with construction tape.

    The last stage is the decorative decoration of the walls of the attic room
    • Further, if the attic is to be equipped as a living room, then the entire surface is sheathed with plasterboard or clapboard. In addition, in this case, in addition to the walls and ceiling, the floors are also insulated, that is, the attic floor.

    2. Another option may be a thicker insulating "pie", which also fits immediately when the roof is being installed.


    • In this case, a waterproofing windproof film is also laid on the rafter system.
    • On top of it, a crate for roofing material is arranged.
    • Further from the side of the attic, between the rafters, the first layer of insulation must have equal to the width of the rafters.
    • Then, transverse slats are stuffed onto the rafters at a distance from each other equal to the width of the insulation of the next layer. In this case, the insulation is used already thinner. Its thickness should be equal to the thickness of the stuffed transverse rails.
    • After that comes vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the rails with brackets.
    • The interior trim material is then attached to the rails.

    If the roof is insulated in an already built house, where the roofing is fixed, then a vapor barrier is fixed to the rafters from the side of the attic with brackets, and only after that the insulation is laid. Further, the process proceeds in the same way as in the previous versions.

    Insulation of the roof from the inside with polyurethane foam

    Insulation with polyurethane foam goes differently than bulk materials or mineral wool mats and polystyrene.

    This method of thermal insulation has recently become more and more popular and is suitable for both ordinary attics and an attic, which will later become an additional room.


    If the attic is ventilated, and there will be no living space in it, then only the attic floor is insulated. To do this, it is recommended to moisten the boards and beams for better adhesion, and a thin layer of polyurethane foam is sprayed on the wet surface between the beams. After it foams, increases in volume and solidifies, if necessary, another layer is applied. Such insulation will be quite enough to keep the house warm, as the foam penetrates into all the cracks and closes them hermetically.

    If the attic allows for its height to arrange a room on it, or the attic is an attic superstructure to the house, in addition to covering with polyurethane foam, the roof slopes are also insulated.

    Spraying starts from the bottom of the structure, gradually rising to the ridge. Foam is sprayed between the rafters, and its lower layers, rising and solidifying, will be the reference for the next upper applied levels.


    A similar or attic creates a completely sealed non-ventilated space. Polyurethane foam will retain heat well inside the premises in winter and will not allow the attic to overheat on hot summer days. However, ventilation should still be provided, since the room must receive air flow.

    This type of thermal insulation has the following advantages over other heaters:

    • The polyurethane foam coating has no joints and seams over the entire insulated area.
    • A significant reduction in temperature fluctuations in the attic and rooms on the lower floors is achieved.
    • The building receives reliable protection from low and high temperatures affecting the house from the outside.
    • This method of insulation shows a high payback in a very short time, by reducing heating costs due to the low thermal conductivity of the sprayed material.
    • When spraying polyurethane foam directly onto the roof, it receives additional stiffness and strength, as roofing forms a reliable connection with the entire roof structure. At the same time, the polyurethane foam layer does not lead to a significant weighting of the roof.
    • Convenience application - foam closes all hard-to-reach places of roofs and ceilings, penetrating into all large and small holes and crevices, expanding and sealing walls and floors.
    • Polyurethane foam is highly resistant to moisture, to the appearance any forms of biological life, high and low temperatures, prevents the emergence and development of wood decay processes.
    • Foam gives not only excellent thermal insulation to the premises, but also well insulates from extraneous noise from the outside.
    • Polyurethane foam does not shrink, wrinkle or soften.
    • The insulation has a fairly long service life, which is about 30 years.
    • The material does not emit substances toxic to the human body and unpleasant odors.

    The "cons" of the sprayed insulation include the following factors:

    • The toxicity of the material during its application, so you need to work with the use of protective equipment.

    Uncured polyurethane foam is quite toxic, so all work is carried out with mandatory skin, eye and respiratory protection.
    • Polyurethane foam is subject to the negative influence of ultraviolet rays, therefore, after applying the insulation, it must be covered with a finishing material, for example, clapboard, plywood or drywall.
    • For installation work on insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to have special expensive equipment. True, if you have the skills to work with this material, then the equipment can also be rented. But in the case when this work is unfamiliar, it is better not to take risks, but to invite specialists with equipment to spray the material.

    Video: spraying polyurethane foam on roof slopes from the inside

    Insulation of the attic and roof is necessary for buildings located in most Russian regions, so this process should not be postponed "for later", but thermal insulation work should be carried out even at the stage of building a house. Excluding the method of spraying polyurethane, all other insulation measures can be carried out independently, observing the technology of work. If you enlist the help of a friend, then the insulation of the roof may well be completed in a few days.