Collapsible greenhouse "Khlebnitsa" popular with gardeners for easy installation, ease of use and durability.

Expanding greenhouse walls provide direct access to plantings for weeding, watering, harvesting.

Greenhouse "Khlebnitsa" is easy to use and has a simple design.

Design features

The arched structure consists of three parts: the right half, the left half, and the foundation. The hinged elements of the greenhouse provide the movement of the valves up and down, which allows you to regulate the microclimate inside the greenhouse. There are options for execution: with the opening of one part, both wings at once.

summer residents more often use the design option with one-sided opening entire sash up. The hinges in this case are mounted on the lower frame on one side. To fix the frame, a wooden beam with a cut on the end cut is used.

The principle of operation of the model

Greenhouse action similar to the movement of the semicircular lid of the bread box from which this type of construction got its name. The axis of rotation of the upper part is located in the end vertical pipe. The sides are tightly closed.

Greenhouse cover material polycarbonate or film. To open the greenhouse, lift up the turning part.

The framework is made of hollow polyethylene or metal profile pipes. Cut polycarbonate is inserted into the finished frame or a film is pulled. The material is changed as it wears.

Advantages and disadvantages

According to gardeners, the Khlebnitsa greenhouse has the following advantages:

• the possibility of making your own hands;
• simple installation;
• long service life due to the interchangeability of the covering material;
• convenient use for growing any crops, except climbing ones;
• maintainability;
• light weight;
• affordable price - average for the Russian Federation from 3800 to 8000 rubles.

Note the shortcomings of the design "Khlebnitsa":

• the need for regular checks and lubrication of hinges;
• periodically the hinges stick, a creak is heard when opening;
• transportation requires freight transport (onboard, without an awning);
• strong gusts of wind with the sash open can move the greenhouse or pull it out of the ground;
• a greenhouse of large dimensions is installed by 2-3 people - you cannot cope with the installation alone.

Characteristics with dimensions

The classic version of the greenhouse "Khlebnitsa" - arched frame made of a profile or round metal pipe. Implement greenhouses without covering material.

The picture on the left shows how to make a frame for the greenhouse "Khlebnitsa" with your own hands according to the drawing.

Polycarbonate or film is bought separately, cut into the shape and size of the openings in the frame.

The design of the greenhouse "Khlebnitsa" from different manufacturers has its own characteristics:

• with a lower blind part (curb) to protect landings or without it;
• with legs for deepening into the soil and without;
• opening one part or both;
• pivot center line in the middle of the vertical end post or on the bottom frame;
• different sizes of greenhouses;
• with and without bottom frame.

The dimensions of the greenhouse are limited and are within:

• with opening of one part - no more than 1.3 m in width;
• the width of the double-sided structure is up to 2 m;
• length 2-4 m;
• height 0.5-1.5 m.

REFERENCE: Polycarbonate for an arched greenhouse is preferable, as it is rigid, durable, keeps its shape, but bends easily. The film has to be stretched and fixed, which increases the installation time. Such covering material is short-lived and will require replacement after 1-2 seasons.

How to make a greenhouse "Khlebnitsa" with your own hands

Necessary things for self-construction of the greenhouse "Khlebnitsa": a drawing with dimensions and materials. Prepare all material in advance:

• metal or plastic pipes, wooden bars - for the frame;
• canopies (hinges);
• fasteners;
• polycarbonate or film;
• foundation material: bricks, wooden bars, sleepers and boards.

To assemble the metal frame, you will need a pipe bender, a welding machine, a hacksaw, a drill.

Wooden greenhouse is made having at hand a saw, a hammer, a knife, a screwdriver.

Frame materials

The wooden structure turns out to be bulky, heavy, and requires regular maintenance. For the manufacture of greenhouses take spruce or aspen logs 40x40, 50x50 cm in size. To extend the life of the hinges, metal strapping of the beams is made in the places where the bolts are attached.

The optimal material for the frame of the greenhouse "Khlebnitsa" - profiled metal pipes with a side size of at least 20 cm and a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. The design is light, strong and durable.

On the other hand, the independent production of a metal frame requires a special tool and skills. For example, to bend a workpiece into an arc, you need a pipe bender to weld parts of the frame - a welding machine.

The design of polyethylene pipes is less rigid than a greenhouse made of metal. With the wrong choice of the diameter of the workpieces - unstable, does not hold its shape. If the wall thickness and diameter are too large, it bends poorly, and there is residual stress in the arc.

Foundation

As the basis for the greenhouse "Khlebnitsa" use:

• wood (beam, sleepers);
• brick;
• concrete foundation.

For a stationary foundation, mark the boundaries of the beds, dig a trench 40-50 cm deep and 20-30 cm wide. Making a pillow out of sand and crushed stone 10-15 cm. A brick is laid out on the mortar around the perimeter or a formwork is made, poured with concrete.

After the foundation has dried, the boards are removed, painted or the mortar drips are cleaned from the masonry. Fill the bed with fertile soil. A greenhouse is installed and fixed on top of the foundation. The foundation must match the dimensions of the bottom frame of the greenhouse.

The wooden foundation is easy to dismantle or move to another place. Bars 150x150 cm are laid out along the perimeter of the beds, deepened along the entire length by 5-10 cm into the soil, the corners are fastened with bolts. A greenhouse is installed on the foundation and fixed in several places.

Useful tips for summer residents to increase functionality:

• Cover the foundation of the greenhouse on both sides with manure, dry leaves, grass. Organic debris rots, releasing heat, and creates a natural heating of the soil;
• Attach a bar with brushes to the frame of the non-opening part of the “bread box” from above, which automatically clean dust and dirt from the polycarbonate surface with each turn;
• When opening fix the frame on the support from a wooden beam, since under a gust of wind the sash can spontaneously lower and injure the summer resident;
• Choose polycarbonate with UV protection, the material keeps heat longer, protects seedlings from the aggressive sun.

Step-by-step instruction

For the manufacture of unilateral greenhouse 4 m long, 1 m wide and 0.5 m high, materials will be required:

• profile pipe 20x20x1.5 - 2 blanks 4 m each, 3 pcs. 3.96 m, 2 pcs. 1.6 m, 8 pcs. 1 m;
• fastening material: bolts, self-tapping screws, hinges 2 pcs.;
• polycarbonate 6-8 mm thick - 2 sheets (2.1x6 m);
• metal paint.

Step by step instructions for making welded greenhouse:

1. With the help of a pipe bender, arcs are prepared: 2 pcs. 1 m each - for the moving part, 2 pcs. 1.6 m each - for the sidewalls of the frame. Circle diameter 1 m.
2. On the sides, mark the middle with a marker.
3. Assemble the lower frame: blanks 2 pcs. 3.96 m, 2 pcs. 1 m welded in the corners. The seams are cleaned.
4. Sidewalls are welded to the lower frame. Marker marks the middle.
5. End posts are welded to the lower frame and sidewall at the middle points. The hinge hole must be on the outside.
6. A workpiece of 3.96 m is welded to the sidewalls at the middle points at the top. The frame is ready.
7. The elements of the moving part are welded: side arcs, cross bars 2 pcs. 4 m.
8. Axial strips are welded to the frame of the moving part, which provide opening of the sash by means of a hinge. Axial strips at the bottom are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. and weld together. Clean up the corner.
9. On the inside of the axial bars make a hole for the hinge.
10. Install the hinges on the end posts. Hang the moving part. Check the movement of the sash.
11. The frame is painted, the foundation is being prepared.
12. Polycarbonate is cut according to the size of the openings: 4 pcs. for sidewall, 1 pc. for the moving part, 1 pc. - for the deaf.
13. Polycarbonate is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws through a rubber washer.
14. The greenhouse is mounted on a foundation made of wood or brick, the lower frame is fixed in several places with staples (to wood) or screws (to concrete or brick).

Attention! Before welding, check the vertical and horizontal levels of the frame, sidewalls, crossbars.

A photo

In our village, my grandmother in the kitchen, as far as I can remember, always had a bread box made of wood with my own hands, which was made by my grandfather. It kept the bread fresh for a long time. After many years of life, she was in a deplorable state, and Elya decided to update her, decorating using decoupage technique. Here is her photo.

And so, on one of her visits, Elechka suddenly wanted to have a similar little thing at our house, which she would decorate in her favorite Provence style. Of course, you can buy it, but why, when there is a handy man nearby, she reasoned. And she puzzled me with this question, say, you are our master of all trades. Well, how can you refuse your beloved wife? That's where he got down to business.

At first I wanted to make it out of wood, but we mainly sell coniferous varieties of wood, which are not recommended for use for this product. Pine and fir have a too strong smell that will interrupt the aroma of baking. In the end, I settled on birch plywood.

In today's article I will describe the manufacturing process, and I will attach the drawings of the plywood bread box at the end of the article. They are made in the Compass program, but you will understand everything without drawings from the photo, and you can repeat it if you wish.

Tasks before production

To begin with, I’ll tell you what tasks I wanted to implement when creating this bread box.

• Simplicity of design and ease of execution
• Production without the use of connecting elements (in the form of staples, door handles, nails, etc.)
• The door of the bread box could be used as a cutting board.
• The roof of the bread box had a flat surface so that it could be used as a shelf.

Breaking the Internet, on one of the forums dedicated to carpentry, I came across the presented scheme and I liked it. Unfortunately, the original source has been lost, and an attempt to find it again was unsuccessful, so do not blame me, I do not pretend to be the first. It differed only in that it was without roundings and decorative elements. Well, something like this.

What tools were used

In a workshop using a milling circular machine, the whole process would take literally half an hour. However, if you do not have such a workshop, and there is a desire, then you can get by with a hand tool.

1. Manual electric jigsaw
2. Joiner's pressure ruler
3. Manual frezer
4. Clamps
5. Jigsaw machine (can be replaced with a manual jigsaw, it was just more convenient with it)

Bread making process

For the manufacture we need plywood, in this case I used plywood 8 mm thick and grade 2/4 sanded. I leave the choice of material to your discretion, you can also use wood with success.

Having made a drawing of future side walls on a sheet of plywood, we proceed to cutting. For clarity, I present a drawing on plywood with dimensions.

I cut it with a manual electric jigsaw, but this is not a panacea. If you have a circular saw or router that can make a clean cut, that's even better. Unfortunately, I do not have such machines, so I did what I have.

I draw your attention to little tricks:

In order for the edges to be burr-free, we glue adhesive tape to the place of the cut. Ideally, this should be a durable metallic tape, however, the usual transparent tape from Leroy Merlin did an excellent job.

If, when cutting with a jigsaw, you get a curved cut, then you can go through the edges with a manual router using a ruler, I used to do that. With practice, it is possible to get a straight cut without deflection. The main thing is that the final parts should be sized according to the drawing.

Having cut out two side walls according to the drawing from a sheet of plywood, I made grooves with a router. Because plywood thickness 8 mm, grooving cutter d = 8 mm was used. If you will be using plywood of a different thickness, use the appropriate cutter.

I draw your attention to the fact that it is necessary to mill the grooves when both walls are still connected. So we get grooves on the same level on both parts, and during assembly this will allow us to assemble the product without distortions.

The connection of the rear wall is made with a partial selection of the groove along the edge of the side wall. Thus, aesthetic integrity is preserved when viewed from the side of the bread box (when it stands against the wall in the kitchen) and the strength of the connection when glued.

Because all the grooves are made with deepening to the same depth, then we make the roof, bottom, back wall and lid of the bread box of the same width. In our case, 30 cm.

If you cut everything neatly with geometrically even cuts, you should not have any difficulties with assembly. The only caveat, to ensure easy movement of the lid in the grooves, you can go in two ways: 1) Make the width of the lid 1 mm less than the roof and bottom of the bread box. 2) Enlarge the guide groove a little with sandpaper or using a cutter with a slightly larger diameter. I went for the first of the proposed options.

To give individuality to the shapes of the side parts and the back wall, I made cutouts using my jigsaw machine. Here you can perform any cut you like, it all depends on your wishes. To maintain symmetry, I first made a drawing in the Compass program and printed it out, pasted it on the sidewalls, followed by sawing.

Gluing and assembling the breadbasket

Well, the final stage is assembly by gluing. For gluing, wood glue PVA D3 was used.

And here is an example of a bread box after decoupage decor.

And finally, as promised, the drawings made in the Compass program can be downloaded from the link.

Let this overview of making a bread box help you create your own products, and the resulting bread box will delight you with its functionality and decorate the kitchen.

Usually bread is stored either in a plastic bag or in the refrigerator. But the best place for him, of course, is a wooden bread box. More or less constant humidity is preserved there and such a bread box breathes, thanks to which the bread does not grow moldy and stale for a long time. It is not so difficult to make a wooden bread box with your own hands.
Here is her drawing:

Of the materials, we need a board 10-12 mm thick, preferably birch, oak, ash or linden. Pine is not good, because. it will saturate the bread with a resinous smell. You will also need wooden slats for a flexible cover, a handle and fasteners.
From the board we cut out two sidewalls, a bottom and an upper bar (see picture).

From the inside, in the sidewalls, it is necessary to make a semicircular groove for a flexible cover. It is better to choose it with a milling cutter. You can use a finger mill on a drill.
The lid itself is made of thin wooden slats. Reiki can be glued to a fabric base or inserted into a cord.

If the family is large, you can make a two-tier bread box according to the same principle:

The bread box can be coated on the outside with varnish or linseed oil, and it is better to leave the inside uncoated. However, a wooden bread box can be decorated with burning, decoupage or painting as you like.

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More often than not, the stick is stored either in the refrigerator or in a plastic bag. But the best place to store bread is a wooden bread box that breathes and maintains a constant level of humidity. For this reason, the bread in it can not grow moldy or stale for a long time. Such a wooden bread box) (well) of course under the arm is easy to make with your own hands.

How to make a wooden bread box with your own hands?

In the interests of making a bread box, you will need a riveting having a thickness of about 10 mm. For the breadbasket, swindle, ash, oak and birch are the most suitable. You should not make a bread box from pine, so (that is) in this case, the bread will be saturated with the smell of resin. Excluding this, you will need wooden slats for the manufacture of a flexible cover, fasteners and a hand.

From the board you need to cut the bottom, the top bar and two sidewalls. Inside, take both sidewalls, you need to choose a semicircular slot so that a flexible cover can be wound around it. Better goodbye to make grooves with a milling cutter. To do this, you can use a finger cutter installed with a drill.

The lid is made of thin wooden slats, which you can either stick on a fabric base or insert a cord inside.

If you don’t have a big surname, then you can make a two-tiered bread box according to the same principle.

A handmade bread box will perfectly decorate the table in your kitchen. The kitchen is considered to be the heart of the home.

How to make a wooden bread box with your own hands. MK #1

Usually bread is stored either in a plastic bag or in the refrigerator. But the best place for him, of course, is a wooden bread box. More or less constant humidity is preserved there and such a bread box breathes, thanks to which the bread does not get moldy or stale for a long time. It is not so difficult to make a wooden bread box with your own hands.
Here is her drawing:

Of the materials, we need a board 10-12 mm thick, preferably birch, oak, ash or linden. Pine is not good, because. it will saturate the bread with a resinous smell. You will also need wooden slats for a flexible cover, a handle and fasteners.
From the board we cut out two sidewalls, a bottom and an upper bar (see picture).

From the inside, in the sidewalls, it is necessary to make a semicircular groove for a flexible cover. It is better to choose it with a milling cutter. You can use a finger mill on a drill. The grooves go in a semicircle. The lid slides over them and lowers into the back of the bread box. The grooves must be made in such a way that the lid does not get stuck in them, but slides easily and freely.
The lid itself is made of thin wooden slats. Reiki can be glued to a fabric base or inserted into a cord. In each rail, 3 holes are drilled at an equal distance, and a fishing line is pushed through them as shown in the diagram. In general, they are attached with a fishing line.

If the family is large, you can make a two-tier bread box according to the same principle:

The bread box can be coated on the outside with varnish or linseed oil, and it is better to leave the inside uncoated. However, a wooden bread box can be decorated with burning, decoupage or painting as you like.

Breadbasket wooden. MK #2

It is best to store bread in a wooden bread box. I developed my own form and I think it is very successful. Even a novice in this business can make such a product from wood. A beautiful wooden bread box made with soul and love will decorate any kitchen.

I had to make from different types of wood, but from pine and birch most often. This bread box is made from pine. First of all, I made a template for the side walls and calculated all the dimensions of the remaining parts from it.

Part sizes

Lid 373 x 220 x 15 mm - 1 pc
top 375 x 120 x 15 mm - 1 pc
rear 375 x 185 x 15 mm - 1 pc
lower 375 x 230 x 15 mm - 1 pc
side 255 x 205 x 15 mm - 2 pcs

You need to choose clean areas on the board. The largest width of the board is 230 mm. Here, when choosing a material, you must immediately look at where which part will fit. You can make such a bread box out of plywood, but I always made it out of wood.

Having chosen the boards, you need to start by jointing one side and the edge. Then on the surface gage we drive to the desired size in thickness of 15 mm. On the saw, we skip all the details in width and then trim the final size. According to the template, I draw two identical sidewalls and also cut them out on a saw. Before assembly, go through all the edges with fine sandpaper and knock down the roughness.

Bread box assembly

When assembling, the most important thing is to make accurate markup. I always take an awl and a metal ruler. I make punctures on the sidewalls and on the ends of the parts. There are three connections in the bottom and back parts, two in the top and the cover opens on one on each side. This means that nine punctures must be made in each side wall. After marking, drill with a 5 mm drill to a depth of 10 mm, in each part. The connecting parts are made of metal. With a hacksaw, I sawed 18 pieces of 19 mm nails from 5 mm nails.

Of course, you can make it out of wood, but the lid should be made of metal. Connecting blanks must be rounded off with sandpaper. I glued a wooden bread box with epoxy resin. The first step is to insert the connections into the lid, it will hold firmly on them, it will be easy to open and close.

Having smeared the drilled holes with glue, with a light tapping of the hammer we drive from the beginning of the connection into the part. Putting the side part and smearing the holes in it with glue, insert the top, back and bottom part. We apply glue to the holes of the second side part and press from the top. No glue is applied to the holes where the cover is inserted. See how the lid opens and closes before the glue dries. If everything is good, then you can carefully put it on one side and put a load on top. Any thread can be applied to the finished glued product.

Wooden bread box is well suited for carving. I applied geometric carvings on this wooden bread box. It was made a very long time ago and the carving on it is the simplest. Before cutting, you need to draw a picture. Everything is done as in drawing, circles are squares. I always draw in different ways, I drew what I liked. When carving, only one cutter is needed. After I cut it out, I covered the product with a stain. Let the stain dry well. Wooden products must be varnished twice. After the first coating, remove the raised pile with fine sandpaper and only after that apply the second layer. The varnish used is waterproof and the bread box made of wood can be wiped with a damp cloth. I made this wooden bread box over twenty-five years ago.

Wooden bread box + bamboo napkin. MK #3

Every housewife has a place in the kitchen where they store buns for tea and bread for dinner. Someone wraps the bread in a plastic bag, someone carefully puts it in a plastic store-bought bread box.

I made a bread box with my own hands from 10 mm thick wooden planks and a small bamboo napkin, which you can easily buy at the nearest supermarket.

I drew the dimensions of the blanks in the figure below. Basically, they are determined by the size of the bamboo napkin. He did not give the radius of curvature, because he himself performed it according to a pattern already prepared in advance. The pattern can be drawn on thick cardboard with a pencil, and then cut out the side walls of the bread box using a jigsaw. The sawn parts, if necessary, are carefully processed with fine sandpaper.
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Glue the side walls to the bottom with Moment Carpentry glue and strengthen with self-tapping screws or small carnations. To get the legs, the bottom can be glued to the sidewalls, stepping back from the edge by five millimeters.

Glue and nail the back in the same way. Its height is less than the sides. So the bamboo napkin will lie more beautifully.

After the glue dried, I got this blank.

Bamboo napkins come in a variety of colors. You can choose one that fits well in the interior of your kitchen.

Before attaching the napkin to the bread box, you need to try it on so that it lies neatly.

I varnished the wooden parts of the bread box. When the varnish was dry, I laid a napkin on top and attached it to the back and side walls with decorative furniture studs. The front of the napkin hangs freely, not fixed by anything.

This is such a beautiful bread box.

Kakunin Valery Pavlovich - the city of Minusinsk.