Log cabin from profiled timber: shrinkage, assembly with your own hands. A house built from profiled timber is something more than a roof over your head. This is a place of endless comfort, which has attractive external data and excellent characteristics.

This is due to the fact that only natural materials are used without glue and harmful impurities. Thanks to this, the house will have an unusual atmosphere, and you will always feel comfortable in it.

Counts:

• The naturalness of the material.
• Low thermal conductivity - thanks to this, even in the cold season, the rooms will always be warm.
• Reliability and durability.
• Uniform and fast shrinkage of the material.

Building a house from a log house

Key stages of construction from a log house of profiled timber

Self-made construction of log cabins is a very complex and time-consuming process, which cannot be carried out without special skills. The first stage of work at which difficulties are encountered is the choice of material. The profiled bursa should have a cross section of at least 200 mm. But if you are building a 7 * 7 log house, which will be used only in summer, you can take material with a smaller section.

Do not forget that during self-assembly, shrinkage should be taken into account, which will be from 10 to 15 cm. We will divide the process of assembling a log house from profiled 7 * 7 into five parts.

Process:

1. Scheme drawing, design.
2. Fill .
3. work.
4. and outside work.

Main processes

Building walls

Creating and building walls is a very important process that should be done with all care. We lay out the rows of timber very carefully. Each subsequent one must be fastened with the previous dowel. Thanks to this action, the beam will not move to the side. To install the pins, you will need to drill holes that will be 40 mm in diameter. This is the ideal indicator for the dowels to easily enter the hole.

Important: If you set out to build a house for year-round use, do not forget about the compactor. To do this, in one of the bars it will be necessary to cut a protrusion, and in the other, cut a groove with similar dimensions. The layers of timber can be alternated with grooves and spikes. Such a structure will make the overall structure more reliable and stronger. You can’t make mistakes in laying, as you will have to take everything apart and start over.

If the size of a log house made of profiled timber is more than 7 * 7, at least one partition should be installed on the first floor. This will be a kind of support for the flooring on the second floor. In the end, when building walls, you will need to cut down window openings. Determine the location for the windows and cut out the openings. When drying the material, it is important that they are well ventilated. After shrinkage of the profiled frame, you can proceed with the installation of windows.

Recent work in the assembly of the log house

This is the final stage of the assembly. You only need to insulate the building and do the finishing, as well as roofing. After everything is done, the construction will be officially considered completed. As you can use mineral wool / glass wool. Or is perfect for interior decoration, but the first option will be much better.

Ready log cabin - order or do it yourself?

A log house made of profiled timber is an excellent building with a huge list of advantages. In order for it not to lose its remarkable qualities, it is recommended to order or buy a ready-made building, since during the construction by oneself there are many errors and problems, due to which the final version of the dwelling will not be comfortable.

With self-assembly, many questions will certainly arise, the answer to which will not even be given by every specialist. Many people, for lack of experience, make serious mistakes, and this is as a result of error and a violation of the integrity of the structure as a whole. In this case, the good old saying works: “The miser pays twice”, since you have to redo everything, hire a specialist and purchase additional material. To avoid such mistakes, there is a share of common sense to order or buy a ready-made log house from a reputable company.

Order and purchase - advantages and disadvantages

It is much easier to order a kit or buy a log house from a specialized company than to build a house yourself. This is due to such reasons:

Well, the main advantage in ordering a log house from profiled timber is savings. Indeed, it will be much cheaper for you to buy a ready-made building or place an order.

If you want to do the construction yourself, it will be more expensive for you for several reasons:

• The material will be purchased from specialized firms. But these same firms purchase timber at a cost several times lower than they sell.
• Material consumption. Do-it-yourself construction has never been without mistakes. A groove that you cut incorrectly or something else will lead to the purchase of new material. Experienced professionals are unlikely to make such mistakes.
• It is impossible to assemble a log house alone / together, so you will have to hire a team. Handymen who will help you will also have to pay.

Such costs usually exceed the payment for the order of the same log house in the company.

Additional advantages when ordering a log house from profiled timber

The advantages mentioned above are not the last ones on the list. When ordering or buying a finished log house, you will save time and effort. Even if you succeed on the materials (which is unlikely), it will take you a lot of time to assemble, and you will also have to wait for the shrinkage of the log house from the profiled timber. Contacting a company is a great option if you want to get a house in the shortest possible time, and you want it to meet all quality parameters.

You will also not be able to do the construction yourself in the winter. But this is not a hindrance for companies that, even in winter, assemble pediments, walls and partitions in production workshops. After that, they leave it for shrinkage and manage to do both the interior and exterior decoration by the beginning of spring.

The construction of glued beams has the following advantages:

1. The material of manufacture is winter wood, and it has a dense structure.
2. , built in winter, has a plus in the form of freezing moisture from the walls.
3. So it is much better ventilated, due to which good shrinkage will be ensured.

Price

The price for the construction of a log house will depend on many factors, which include the quantity and quality of the timber, as well as its cross section and the complexity of the construction.

Prices are approximate.

Results

Do not forget that you should order kits only from well-known and time-tested companies. Do not forget that different companies have different prices for construction. So, an order in a popular company will be much more expensive than in a less popular company, but the quality of work will be the same.

Do not forget, that when choosing a log house, you should carefully examine it and notice all the details. Before buying, study all the characteristics and evaluate the quality. The finished product can be placed and immediately begin finishing work.

The technology of assembling a log house from a bar for a house or a bath

Organization of the workplace for the assembly of walls

In order for the work to be argued, the bars are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or better - on its two sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is laid on pads of boards.

A workplace for marking and cutting beams is equipped next to the stack. A variant of the arrangement of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the beam using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low linings in the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to saw the timber with a chain saw.

The cut beam is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined bars, which rest with their upper end on the upper crown of the log house. The beam is moved along the slopes with a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the timber safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to manage with small forces. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log house from a bar by a team of four people. You can work together, just work will go slower.

For the installation of the upper rims of the log house and the roof, scaffolding is constructed.

Three-tier scaffolding on the pediment of the house. 1 — Rack extreme; 2 - l-shaped rack of the scaffolding of the first tier on the side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 — Rack central; 5 - cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6 - bosses

The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on g - shaped racks, pos. 2 in the figure. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls with the help of bosses, pos.6.

At the stage of erection of the roof (attic), on the facades, where the device of gables is necessary, it is necessary to make scaffolding in three tiers. For the construction of scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.

It is more convenient, faster and safer to work from scaffolding than from ladders - do not forget about it.

Marking bars for wall assembly

Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before starting work, they draw a scheme for assembling the walls of the house, on which they indicate: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly scheme is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking the corner joints of the beam and the joints of the details of the longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions of 6x9 meters. BUT and FROM- longitudinal walls; D and B- transverse walls; E- an inner wall made of timber - a partition; 1 - joints of beams.

At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of bars from 3 to 6 in length. m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main timber of a standard length of 6 meters and an extension, 3 meters long. On one crown, long bars are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, laying begins in the same order, but on the right.

The details of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one bar of a standard length of 6 meters.

To exclude cold bridges in the outer walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are performed by making vertical cuts “to the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The beam in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root spike (for more details, see below).

How to correctly and quickly mark spikes, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of timber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is with templates. The template is applied to the beam and the contour of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.

It is more convenient, faster to mark and there will be fewer errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, has the same length as the part to be marked. I put a template on the beam and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, it will be necessary to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. One template marks two mirrored parts of the walls.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Consider how to make universal templates for marking the details of the longitudinal walls of the house (see the wall assembly diagram above).

Two templates (highlighted in bright yellow) for marking the timber of the longitudinal walls. 4 - a groove for a root spike; 5 - groove for the spike of the inner wall; 6 - sample; 7 - dobor bar.

The picture above shows the template. for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall layout diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with an extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

At first glance, the templates are the same, but they differ in that the grooves, pos.5, for connection with the partition, are located in different places of the templates.

The same templates are used to mark the details of the extensions. To do this, on patterns at points b and With through holes are drilled, and at points a and d incisions have been made.

To mark the extension, the template is applied to the timber and points are pricked through the holes and cuts on the surface of the workpiece.

Remember this technique with the device holes in the template. This will help you create generic templates in many other cases.

The templates are made from planed "inch" boards.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse ones). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.

And now let's consider how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the beam and the end of the template is circled with a marker on the left, then two grooves and, finally, a selection for the connection “to the floor of the tree”. The marked beam is transferred to the place of cutting, where unnecessary fragments (they are better when marking out
hatch) cut out with a chainsaw.

How to mark details with spikes? Obviously, the tongue and groove are elements of the same node, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In a detail with a spike, a spike is marked in place of the groove.

If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with interventional insulation.

The profile of the template is transferred to the upper face of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. According to this markup, accurate cuts are carried out.

How to assemble smooth walls from a bar of different widths

Specifications (TS) for the manufacture of timber allow deviation of the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate the standard dimensions of the timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and a length of 6 meters, the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each bar, in a batch of timber brought to the construction site, will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.

Dimensional variation must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.

How to assemble even walls if the timber is different in width and length?

b- the minimum width of the beam; delta b- the difference between narrow and wide beams.

Obviously, from a beam of different widths, only one surface of the wall can be made even - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.

If they want to make a smooth wall of the house outside, then all the bars in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then inside the house, wide bars will protrude from the wall by the amount of "delta b"(difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment on the outer edge leads to an increase in the gaps in the corner connection of the bars (see figure).

If the bars in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the "steps" of the protruding beams will already be on the outer surface of the wall. The wall outside is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the beam, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without sheathing. The corner joints of the beams are more dense, "warm".

How and with what to connect the crowns of the log house

Each log crown is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden dowels. Nagels are located at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.

Each detail of the crown is fixed with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times the height of the timber.

cm., pos. one.

Dowels made of round steel with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), they simply hammer into the bars of the crowns with a hammer, an option a on the image.

The upper ends of the dowels of any material must be deepened into the beam by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the beam dries and the log shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the beam and raise the upper crown. A large gap is formed between the crowns.

For the same reason it is impossible to make clogged dowels from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the beams of the crowns from moving during the shrinkage of the log house, even if the dowel is deepened into the beam. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.

Small-diameter driven steel dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.

Steel pins with a diameter of 10 or more millimeters, as well as wooden pins, are inserted into holes pre-drilled in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.

With a tight fit of the dowel in the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the log house increases.

Wooden pins with a diameter of 25-30 mm it is convenient to cut from round cuttings for the tool. Such cuttings are made from hardwoods. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

Can be cut from a regular "inch" board dowels of square section 25x25 mm. Chamfers are removed from one end of the workpiece. Such pins are hammered into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood are crushed during nailing, the wood is compacted, providing a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to drill holes in a beam for dowels

The depth of the holes in the wall for the installation of dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free from chips.

To drill holes in a beam, deep enough and of large diameter, a low-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Given the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.

To drill holes in the timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with an emphasis, as shown in the figure.

The stop bar is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

The emphasis, in the form of a wooden block, is attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole of chips, grinds and then easily gets out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a bar that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the interventional insulation. But usually here a problem arises - the interventional gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the gasket material are simply wrapped around the drill and clamped.

You have to install the beam on the wall in two steps. First, the beam is mounted without a gasket and temporarily fixed from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is shifted from the wall and interventional insulation is laid.

In places of drilling cut the lining with a sharp knife. Then, the removed beam is reinstalled in place, already on the gasket, and fixed with dowels.

Drilling holes in a beam laid on a wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Standing on a narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can "bite", a powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a flat wall from a curved beam

In the beam brought to the construction site, part of the beams may turn out to be curved. The beam may have curvature in one plane, or twist with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross section.

If possible, then it is better not to use curved bars for the walls of a house or a bath. Bars with curvature are recommended to be cut into smaller pieces and used in other, less critical places.

A small amount of timber that has a curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam in the wall with a bulge up or down, in the hope that it will straighten out under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten out, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The curved beam is laid into the wall, straightening it in a horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

The curved beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels

A curved beam is drilled, combining it at the drilling points with a straight beam. After laying the interventional insulation, the curved beam is fixed with a dowel at one end and, unbending, is sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.

It does not take much effort to unbend the beam. To facilitate the work will help the lever and bracket

Mezhventsovy gasket - insulation, sealant

For and cold, a gasket is laid between the crowns. Previously, moss or linen tow was used for this. Currently, special gasket materials based on flax or flax jute are commercially available. The material is sold as a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.

A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and fixed with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should stand 1-2 from the outer edge of the beam. cm. otherwise it will get wet.

Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and offer to caulk the joints after shrinking the log house, adding an additional amount of material to the voids of the joints. In this embodiment, we have a lower consumption of gasket material.

The work of caulking joints is quite laborious and tedious. It is better to immediately lay the seal thicker, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need for caulking horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of the log house

In the process of building a house or a bath, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of a log house from a bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

• Verticality of corners.
• Height of corners and walls.
• The horizontality of the crowns and the upper faces of the timber.
• The straightness of the walls.
• The quality of laying interventional insulation.

For control of the verticality of the corners apply the following method.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1 - bottom trim; 2 - crowns; 3 - control lines; 4 - plinth.

On each side of the crown, at the same distance from the corner edge, draw a vertical line.

With the correct laying of the crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked by a plumb line.

If deviations are found, then the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. The measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

Horizontal rims and top faces the timber is checked for level.

Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

Especially carefully and constantly check the verticality and height of the corners. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the beam in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the crowns in the settled corners. Sometimes it helps if you knock with a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of the laying of interventional insulation is checked visually by examining the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown, doorways begin to form. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen within 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in the crowns in the zone of openings has its own characteristics.

a - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. in - scheme for cutting timber, where c - the remainder of the cutting. G - a variant of the opening device in the log house with the installation of temporary fastening beams, pos.7. d - an option with the installation of decks in the opening, pos.6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for the formation of openings when assembling a log house.

One option is " G" on the image. The opening is made in a draft version, only preparation is made to create an opening. The opening is prepared for the installation of doors and windows not immediately during the assembly of the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after shrinkage of the log house.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly of the log house. Bars must be installed in the opening, fastening the wall with a log house, pos.7 in the figure. At least two such bars are installed in the doorway.

In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the walls can “take away” inward or outward. To prevent this the timber in the piers is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another variant - d» in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, decks (pigtails) are installed in the openings - a vertical beam with a groove, pos.6 in the figure. The spike of the wall beam enters the groove. In this way, the beam of the pier is fixed from displacement. In this version, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (pigtails) traditionally serve not only to connect the timber in the opening, but also serve as window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed, curly chamfers are removed.

Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a board of a vertical pigtail with a rail - a spike, enters the groove of the wall beam; 3 - plastic window frame; 4 - sealing tape PSUL

In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and arranging plastic slopes and window sills, decks (pigtail) can be omitted. The bars in the opening are fastened like this. A vertical groove is cut out at the ends of the bars along the entire length of the opening and a rail is inserted there, which fixes the bars of the wall from displacement.

The length of the deck (pigtail) or rail should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

Timber for houses, baths in your city

How to install windows in a timber wall

If the opening in the wall was made in a draft version (see above), then the installation of the window begins with sawing the opening to the desired size. To do this, a rail is stuffed along the border of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the bars are sawn off with a chain saw along the edge of the rail.

Proper installation of a window in a wall made of timber. 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 — mezhventsovy heater; 8 - shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - wall beam (wall); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Then, with a circular saw, spikes are cut out at the ends of the bars of the wall (wall). On the spikes, pos.10, a deck is placed with a groove, pos.11. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails hammered at an angle, pos. 12. So the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

A window box is inserted into the opening thus prepared, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos.8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.

The compensation gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.

Similarly, openings are prepared and inserted into the walls from the timber of the door.

After the assembly of the first floor of the house is completed, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) ceiling.

Can be a constructive element. And they can perform an independent function.

The next page describes the construction of a sloping roof of a house made of timber, where floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the mansard roof's load-bearing frame.

Watch the video clip, which describes in some detail and shows the technology for installing a log house from a construction beam.

1208

I want to say a huge thank you to Alisher. I have never met such decent, honest, fast workers, and most importantly, they do their job very well. The other day I ordered building materials for a gazebo at the dacha. The question is how do I build it. First, I asked my friends who they would advise. One brigade offered me for 30 tr, the other even put up 40 tr. Then I decided to look in profi.ru. Alisher responded to my request. We agreed for 10 tr. In 1.5 days I had a ready-made gazebo, all the neighbors began to ask for the phone of my workers, how cool they made my gazebo. I called my friend's husband, he is just a builder, he appreciated the work very well.

Grade 5+

Tatiana, Volokolamsk

Order services: Construction of houses.

We decided to change the team of builders and stumbled upon Vladimir's profile, which I am very glad about now, since Vladimir turned out to be an excellent foreman, who always goes to a meeting, responsibly approaches work, everything is done on time and with high quality, thanks to him for the work done. It is a pity that we did not meet him earlier, when construction had just begun.

Grade 5+

Good afternoon to everyone who reads this review. I want to express my deep gratitude to Romonenkov Denis Valerievich For the provision of services for the construction of the BANI, he came in one call, everyone discussed, put on a piece of paper what you need to buy for construction, shared the material as much as you need. I bought what Denis wrote in a week. The builders arrived on Monday and started building. Exactly in a week they put up a bathhouse, the guys builders are very neat (not ... as it happens) For which we also thank them very much !!! In a word, I recommend Denis, he is a true professional in his field!!!

Grade 5+

Alexander, Staraya Kupavna

Order services: Construction of baths and saunas.

Everything is great! The guys responded to the request to fix the work of other builders (fix the poorly prepared strip foundation of the fence, level and concrete the poles, equip the gate, fix the picket fence). Everything was fixed quickly and efficiently. In addition.. In addition, we took up the work of correcting errors in the interior decoration of the house. I recommend!

Grade 5+

Natalia, Istra

Order services: Gate installation. Construction of fences from eurostudent.

Konstantin Anatolyevich is a professional builder, they say they are, a man in his place, built me ​​a beautiful two-story house over the summer, without finishing yet, but this, in fact, was a task and it was 100% completed. Of course, I plan to continue construction under his sensitive management. I will recommend it to my friends with pleasure, as I am absolutely sure that it will not let you down, and the quality will be on top.

Grade 5

April 2016. Construction of an extension to the bathhouse. At the very first meeting, Alexey examined the entire scope of work in detail and calculated the final cost within half an hour. We agreed with the price. We signed an agreement. Agreed on the order of work. A week later, Alex started. Quickly enough, he erected the frame of the extension. All work was carried out within the originally agreed terms (which surprised us, the first time we saw this with the builders). He refers to the work he does with heart. Listens to recommendations. Provides sound suggestions and solutions. In general, we are satisfied with the results of Alexey's work. The first builder who cares about the result and is ready to adapt to the situation. Recommended!

Grade 5+

Profiled timber is one of the most reliable modern materials. Such a house looks presentable, beautiful and rich. The advantage is the naturalness of the selected material. Due to the high performance and ease of processing of profiled timber, it is easy to realize any ideas.

You can get acquainted with the assembly of a house from a profiled beam with your own hands on the video. There is nothing difficult in this. The bar is made in production and goes through certain stages of processing. Its surface is perfectly smooth. Also, the profiled timber has special grooves with which you can easily connect the elements to each other.

Assembling a house from profiled timber and its advantages

	Advantages of a wooden house In addition to environmental friendliness and beauty, there are several other important aspects that make such housing affordable and of high quality.
	Assembly steps. To do everything right, you must follow the instructions and follow all the recommendations.

Assembling a house from profiled timber. Video. With my own hands. pros

As with the use of any other material, some nuances should be taken into account during the construction of a house from a profiled beam. Especially carefully it is worth studying this issue for those who are going to do this on their own for the first time.

The positive aspects of a house made of profiled timber:

1. Attractive appearance.

High-quality profiled timber does not need additional processing and finishing. The whole process of decorating the walls inside the room will be reduced to a decorative and protective coating. This not only saves money, but also time. And the wooden house itself looks solid.

1. Easy assembly.

A very important factor, especially if it was decided to do everything yourself. But it is worth considering one recommendation: do not save on the kit. The fact is that you can simply buy a profiled timber and try to assemble it according to your own project. But then it is better to seek help from specialists.

For self-construction, it is better to purchase a ready-made kit, to which instructions will be attached. Thus, at any time you can find answers to your questions and, in the company of several assistants, you can do it very quickly.

1. Low cost.

The price of profiled timber is much lower than, for example, bricks. At the same time, it is easier to work with him. The cost of building such a house is much lower. In addition, you can do without interior or exterior decoration.

1. Environmentally friendly material.

Wood is a natural material, it does not contain synthetic impurities. Therefore, it does not pose any threat to the environment or human health. In addition, a pleasant microclimate will always be maintained inside the house, which has a positive effect on the body as a whole. Also, the tree absorbs excess moisture and retains heat well, this is very important especially in the cold season.

When working with such material, care must be taken to maintain an attractive appearance. Wood very easily and quickly absorbs dirt, subsequently it is difficult to remove it from the surface, you have to use sandpaper. It is best to prepare a separate place where it will be relatively clean and you can place the material.

Performing work assembling a house from a profiled beam with your own hands. Video

Building a house is not an easy task, but choosing the right material can be done quickly and efficiently, even without involving a team of workers. The matter is that the pro-thinned-out bar has rather small weight and easily gives in to any processing. For those who ordered a kit, the work becomes twice as easy, because they have a description of the work in all details and in a certain sequence. It is important not to deviate from it. You can also watch videos on the Internet, where they explain how to handle the timber and how to lay it.

1. Preparatory stage.

This process begins with the fact that you must decide on a project or create it yourself. Many companies offer ready-made plans, according to which the client can independently assemble a finished house from profiled timber. In the catalogs you can find a wide variety of projects for every taste and taking into account all the nuances.

• You should decide on the area of ​​​​the house.

If this is a country or garden house, then you can choose a small option that fits perfectly on the site. If you decide to live in it permanently with your family, it is better to choose spacious options. It can be one-story or two, the main thing is that it has all the necessary premises. Also, the size largely depends on the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site.

• Choose the right project.

It turns out that this is not so simple. Sometimes, due to certain circumstances, it is not possible to realize the plan. The fact is that in addition to desire, it is also necessary to take into account the placement of communications. But the most important factor is convenience and comfort. Ready-made projects are quite thoughtful and offer a lot of options. You can create your own based on several.

It must be remembered that when choosing a bar, its thickness should be taken into account. For a residential building, it is better to choose material 200x200 or more. Elements with a smaller thickness will freeze through in winter.

• Calculate the amount of material needed.

The best option is to contact a company that will help you do this. You can also use the online calculator on one of the sites. If you have construction skills, then you should try to do everything yourself.

• Preparation of necessary documents.

This procedure may take some time, but without obtaining permission and approval of the plan, construction cannot begin.

1. Main job.

• Foundation.

Assembling a house from a profiled beam with your own hands according to the video begins with the foundation. Since the weight of the structure is small, you can get by with a tape or pile base. It is important to take into account the depth of soil freezing and the foundation must go into solid layers. In areas where groundwater is close to the surface, a slab base is used that can withstand active ground movement. For concrete to be durable, it must be left for at least 4 weeks. To avoid excess moisture in the lower part of the house, the upper end is treated with bituminous mastic, and then roofing material is laid on it.

• Lower crown.

For this part, the strongest elements are chosen, often of greater thickness. They must be treated with an antiseptic several times and dried. With an indent of 25-30 centimeters, wooden slats are laid, which reduce the contact of the profiled timber with the foundation. It is recommended to use larch for the lower crown.

• Wooden frame.

• Interior decoration.

Usually it is not needed. A wooden beam is simply treated with a special solution. The interior differs from a brick house in simplicity and comfort. All necessary communications are also carried out.

Do-it-yourself assembly of a house from a profiled beam using a video is a very convenient option. This process will not take long. A wooden house is an economical option.

According to the technology of assembling the walls of a house from profiled timber, it is necessary to pay more attention to the laying of the first crown. To create a house from a bar, if the temperature in winter is up to -30 degrees, its thickness must be at least 15 cm.

The first timber is set according to the level, this will avoid the skew of the building. The first timber is best taken 5 cm thicker than those that will be used to build a house.

At the next stage lay inter-beam insulation and a second element is mounted on top of it.

Beam connections

To connect the logs to each other, dowels are usually used, under which holes are made.

The main types of connection:

1. corner connections;
2. crown joints;
3. end longitudinal nodes.

As a heater, it is best to use lendzhut, this material has half flax and half jute in its composition.

To perform the work you will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• a hammer;
• cord;
• building level;
• chainsaw.

Raising and fixing corners

Options for joining corners without residue:

1. at the butt;
2. "half a tree";
3. with root spike;
4. on dowels.

With the remainder

• fastening when laying in a corner "with a remainder";
• single line grooves;
• bilateral lock;
• quadrilateral lock.

There are several options for building corners:

1. with dowels, under which special grooves are made in the bars;
2. using a connection like tenon-groove, while a spike is made in one element, and a groove in the other;
3. with help metal staples, in this case, the bars are connected end-to-end;
4. through crossing logs, in each of them half the thickness is cut off, and they are interconnected.

Often the length of the house is greater than the length of the bursa, so it must be lengthened. In this case, it is necessary to correctly connect the connection, which is done in the dressing, that is seams move relative to each other, as when creating brickwork. In length, the products are connected in half a tree and fixed with dowels.

At the locations of windows and doors, only solid material is used; 2 pins are hammered near the openings. You can cut an opening in a finished log house, do it with a chainsaw, but first you need to mark up.

Warming process

For the construction of a house, bars 15-20 cm thick are usually used, but if you plan to live in it permanently, then the walls must be additionally insulated. This can be done both outside and inside the building. Outside, siding or blockhouse is most often used, and lining or drywall inside.

The main insulation for external walls:

• Mineral wool and its analogues;
• Windproof plates Isoplat;
• Styrofoam;
• Foamed polyethylene;
• Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS);
• Sprayed polyurethane foam;
• Penoplex.

First, the wall is marked taking into account the dimensions of the insulation, so that it fits snugly between the crate. After that, suspensions are fixed with self-tapping screws, on which metal profiles or wooden beams are mounted.

Insulation is settled between the crate, usually these are mineral wool slabs, which are attached to the wall with fungal dowels, instead of cotton wool, you can insulate with foam, but it has a number of disadvantages (vapor-tight, combustible), the advantages include high sound and heat insulation, low price.

At the next stage, to protect the insulation, a waterproofing layer is mounted, while its foil side should be turned outward, and all seams should be glued with adhesive tape. Now it remains to close the facade with siding or blockhouse.

How to level a wall in a house if it arched

Sometimes there is a problem such as deformation, this can happen for several reasons:

• If they brought not dried timber and its final drying takes place already in the wall.
• In case of violation of the installation technology, when the insulation was incorrectly laid and moisture gets between the logs.

If you notice the curvature of the wall in time, then this can be corrected. In those places where deflections appeared, as well as near window and door openings, a tire from a channel or the same bar is applied and installed vertically along the entire height of the wall on both sides of the building.

Tire attachment it is carried out at least at three points; for this, metal studs with a diameter of 10 mm and wide washers are used. It is necessary to tighten the nuts well, but you should not expect an instant result.

It may take up to several months until the wall takes on its normal shape under the influence of the tire and external weather factors.

If with the help of tires it was not possible to completely level the walls, then you can give the house an attractive look by finishing its facade.

If you decide to build a house from a bar yourself, then to get a quality result, the following recommendations of experts must be observed:

1. Pay special attention to the choice of material, of all conifers, pine is most often used;
2. It is better to use wood harvested in winter, if it was harvested in summer, then it is better not to heat the house in the first year, and in the second year it is necessary to maintain the temperature within 16-18 degrees.
3. Shrinkage occurs over three years, at which time slight cracks may appear on the walls, which is quite normal, after which surface changes stop.
4. When creating a window or doorway, they need to be made a little more than necessary, otherwise the frame will be crushed during the shrinkage of the house, the gap is filled with soft insulation.
5. To eliminate lateral displacement, the bars are interconnected using dowels.
6. It is impossible to connect the bars with nails, because when they dry out, the tree hangs on the nails, and large gaps are obtained.

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