Most heating systems work fully with circulation pump(colloquially - pumps). The pump maintains the required fluid pressure in the heating circuit. This is its purpose - to keep the required pressure in the system, helping to overcome the hydro-resistance of the circuit elements (pipes, radiators) to the coolant, additionally moving it along the circuit. There are systems with several pumps: one in the heating boiler and one or two in the heating circuit. In the presence of a well-functioning circulation pump, it is not at all necessary to place the heating boiler in the lowest part of the heating circuit.
Most pumps have the following design:
As a result of the work, some vacuum at the entrance pump and the desired pressure (compression) - at the outlet. All circulation pumps depending on design features are classified into two types:
Pumps of the "dry" type are characterized by the fact that their rotor during operation itself does not come into contact with the working fluid of the circuit heating. It is securely isolated from it by a sliding seal - a ring. Such pumps have a fairly high efficiency - up to 75-85%, but operate with a certain level of noise. Such pumps are larger in size than their "wet" counterparts, and require special piping of the circuit. In addition, they usually need periodic maintenance. As a rule, these pumps are used in separate boiler housesproviding heat to several buildings or an industrial enterprise.
In wet type pumps, the rotating rotor itself is in contact with the fluid being pumped. heat transfer fluid, and the fixed part of the pump motor - the stator - is isolated from it. By interacting with the liquid, the necessary lubrication of the rotor parts and the noiselessness of the operation of the entire pump as a whole are achieved.
Pumps usually have a built-in step speed controller. Wet-type circulation pumps can operate for years, and sometimes decades, without requiring any maintenance. But they have low efficiency - only 50-65%. Pumps of this type have received most widespread in private domestic heating systems precisely because of their small size and noiseless operation. These aspects are one of a number of others when choosing a circulation pump for the heating circuit of your home. But there are other aspects to choosing a pump. We will consider them.
Well-functioning pump in the heating system separate house or cottage must meet the following requirements.
With the last point, everything is clear. The smaller the pump and the quieter it runs, the better. From this point of view, circulation pumps are undoubtedly more suitable for installation in a heating system. wet type. Let's take a look at the other points.
The first three requirements for a pump are closely related and one depends on the other. Performance implies amount of distilled liquid, its consumption at a minimum pump load. To put it simply, the higher it is, the better.
There is a well-known formula her calculation: Q \u003d N / (t 2- t 1)
In calculations, the value of t1 is taken within +60 ÷ +70С°, and the value of t2 - +90 ÷ +95С°. This formula allows you to approximately choose the parameters desired pump. It is generally accepted that for 10 meters of the length of the circulation ring of the circuit, you need about 0.6 meters of pump head.
There are already calculated thermal standards. It is considered: for warming up 10 sq. meters of the room requires 1 kW of heating boiler power. If you take thermal power one section of 200 W, then 10 sq. meters will require 5 sections. Usually taken small stock in the form of 1-2 sections. The pump must be able to supply water to all radiators in the building
The pump pressure refers to the level to which the pump can raise the water in the heating system. It is measured in meters of water column or in atmospheres. This value is usually indicated in the documentation for the pump and on the pump itself(special tag).
Consider GRUNDFOS pump UPS 25-40.
The manufacturer is quite well known. The number 40 indicates the height of the coolant rise - 4 meters. Which corresponds to 0.4 atm. pressure. It is for this value that you need to select the pump in the first place for your system. What does the number 25 mean? It denotes the diameter of the connected pipes - 25 mm (1 inch). Typically, 25 mm and 32 mm (1.25 in.) pipes are used to connect the pump. Therefore it should look at the full name of the pump- it must match the diameter of the pipes (adapters) in your heating system. Usually, the power consumption is also indicated on the pump in different modes, the number of revolutions and the direction of movement of the rotor and coolant.
And, of course, the operation of the pump is affected external conditions. Temperature environment to a greater extent affects the amount of heat needed to heat the room, and hence the operation of the pump. In some rare cases, it also affects the operation of the pump itself - a “frozen” pump does not work like a “warmed up” one. By the way, the pump will start to overheat when it is not right choice- he can can't handle the overload. Therefore, when buying it, you should know the parameters of your heating system and boiler.
The larger the diameter of the pipes - the more water in the system, the more powerful the pump is needed. In addition, the coolant from an antifreeze liquid has a viscosity that is different from the viscosity of water, so the pump should also be selected more efficient and reliable. Fortunately, the choice of circulation pumps is quite large - you can choose the right one for almost every heating system.
From the author: Of course, the pump must be able to handle the load. But you need to take into account the fact whether it will work constantly, or whether it will turn on only at the right intervals. If the circulation pump is planned to be turned on only to feed the heating system and to slightly adjust the pressure, it is not necessary to choose a powerful high-performance pump of the brand. The Wilo N. O. -25/4 pump installed in my basement (see photo) turns on every 3-5 months for 1-2 minutes to raise the pressure by 0.1-0.5 atm. But then again: in a wall-mounted gas boiler, I already have a built-in pump that works all the time. Therefore, all factors must be taken into account.
If your pump will work in tandem with the natural circulation circuit, then the load on the pump may be high. In this case, the greater its performance and pressure, the better. With the wrong choice, the pump may simply not be able to cope with the task assigned to it - it will poorly "push" the system, as a result, the batteries will be barely warm. And the pump itself can overheat and burn out. Also, do not put the pump on 1 inch in 1.25 inch pipes through adapters. In some cases, it will not be able to provide the necessary pressure.
Another parameter of the pump is its consumed electric power . As a rule, it is small - from 50 to 200 watts. Great importance only available when the pump is constantly on.
There are many types of pumps from various companies on the market. Almost all of them have the same characteristics. They differ mainly degree of reliability and service life.
The most common brands are Grundfos, Wilo, Wester, Wita, ELSOTHERM, Speroni. There are also a lot of different fakes from China or obviously Chinese products. The first two brands on the list are the most reliable. They are distinguished by excellent reliability and noiselessness. You can verify their work by ear only in close proximity (5-10 cm) or by placing your hand on them. Work for years without requiring any attention. But they have one small drawback - high price. Their price is about 2 times higher than for less well-known brands.
Other brands are considered average in terms of price / quality ratio. They work pretty well, problems with them are very rare. Their prices are in the middle range.
Advice: With the right choice, the pump will work without straining. Accordingly, the heating system itself will be distinguished by reliable, full-fledged work and there will be no interruptions in heat in your home.
The opinions of the owners constantly converge on Chinese products: sooner or later, these products begin to make noise, the rotor becomes loose, or the pumps simply burn out. They can work for a couple of months, or they can “hold out” for a couple of years. Their price is, of course, small.
Which one should you choose? Let's just say - never take Chinese pumps. If you do not mind overpaying for a brand - take Grundfos or Wilo. Do not want to overpay for the brand - buy a pump from the middle price category.
2016-05-10 20:32:07
Wow, I learned so much about pumps that my head is spinning. I have such a question, I want to buy a pump, but I only have money for Chinese, cheap. A friend offers to buy a used Grundfos company. Tell me whether it is worth contacting a used pump or not? Unfortunately there are no other options at the moment.
Gone are the days when water heating systems worked without pumps. And today, the efficiency of the heating system is increased precisely due to the installation of the pump. In addition, the room warms up much faster and fuel consumption is reduced. Connecting the pump to the heating system makes it possible to mount towel dryers, thermostats and use pipes of smaller diameter.
hosts country houses with a decentralized water supply system, they face the problem of uniform distribution of heat over all heating circuits. For example, if water boils in the boiler, and radiators in distant rooms remain barely warm. In this case, it is recommended to look for the best means to solve the problem.
To improve circulation, there are two suggestions: installing pipes large diameter or updating the system by installing, or rather, inserting a pressure pump into the pipe. There are few people who want to take up the dismantling of pipes, if at the same time they are still walled up indoors. And the cost of the system itself, which includes pipes with a large diameter, is not always liked by the owners because of its high cost. And the price of the pump for the heating system is much lower.
Therefore, it becomes necessary to install a pressure pump. Circulating pumping devices are established on the heating systems working at all types of fuel - on firewood, coal, black oil. Updating the heating system by inserting a pump into the heating system will help you:
For installation in a heating system, it makes no sense to purchase quite powerful pump, because you will not use it to its full potential. Also, it will make loud noises. The owner who buys the pump is advised to remember that the power of the device should be 10% higher than the value that was obtained as a result of your calculations.
The ability of pumping equipment to meet the needs of the heating system depends on many parameters. For example, on the diameter of pipes, maximum pressure, water temperature, coolant density:
The longer the pipeline, the more powerful the pressure pump for the heating system should be. This suggests that for every 10 meters of the heating system, 0.6 meters of pressure are needed from the pump. To ensure the productive operation of the ring at 100m, a pump head of 6m is required.
Two types of pumps are used to move the energy carrier in the heating system:
For installation in a heating system, it is recommended to buy pumping equipment, which includes detachable threads. If there are no such parts, you need to buy yourself. Don't forget the deep filter. You should also prepare check valve to ensure the normal operation of the heating system.
After selecting a pump for a heating system, it is recommended to purchase a set special keys to install it, stop valves, a small piece of pipe. Its diameter should be the same as the diameter of the riser.
When connecting the heating pump, choose such a scheme so that you can periodically service the system. It is desirable that you have an approach to it. If in earlier models of “wet” pumps, some parts could fail due to contact with water, now systems are produced in such a way that they are not at all afraid of water. Even at different high and low temperatures. This makes it possible to install pumping equipment on the return or supply pipeline.
To increase the pressure in the discharge section, it is necessary to install a pump near the place where the tank is connected in the section of the falling pipeline. Such a scheme makes it possible to create high temperatures in this area of \u200b\u200bheating. Before installing the pump in the heating system on the bypass pipe, check that the unit can withstand a strong pressure of high temperature water.
For more effective work equipment "warm floor" the pumping unit is placed at the site of the supply of heated water. Thanks to this, such a problem as the occurrence of air congestion will be eliminated. To restore the heating system with membrane tank put the bypass with the pumping unit on the return line. It is advisable to bring it closer to the expansion tank.
Proper installation of the pump in the heating system requires compliance with several rules:
When inserting a pump into a heating system, pay attention to the following principles:
Now you know how to install a circulation pump, and how to equip a heating system with two pumps. When taking into account all the rules and features when performing such work, you can forget about the problems of uneven heat distribution in the system and the formation of air gaps.
How to properly install the pump in a heating system that is already operating using natural circulation?
How to install a pump in a heating system designed for a new home? What shut-off valves can be used, and which ones should not be used? Let's try to find out.
Let's start with the main thing: we will find out whether it is necessary to install a pump for heating, if it has been working properly for many years without it. What will change?
However: continuous murmuring with air in the circuit can be annoying. Functionality is functionality, but it is still better to take care of the ability to bleed air from everywhere.
Do systems with a circulation pump have negative sides?
If with electricity consumption electric pump to do something is problematic by definition, then the second problem is solvable. Moreover, the solution is obvious: when designing a system, it is necessary to include in the project the ability to work due to natural circulation.
How to properly install the pump for heating in terms of its service life? Surely there are factors that can lead to accelerated wear of the mechanics.
The instruction is related to the peculiarities of the operation of the mechanical part of the device. The design of a heating pump used to create individual heating systems of moderate power implies continuous cooling of the rotor and shaft with bearings by a circulating coolant.
To prevent air pockets from leaving the bearings without lubrication and cooling, the motor shaft must be located strictly horizontally.
It is highly desirable to install a sump before the pump. Its function is to filter out the inevitable sand, scale and other abrasive particles that destroy the impeller and bearings of the circulation pump.
Since the diameter of the tie-in for the pump is usually small, an ordinary coarse filter is quite suitable. The keg intended for collecting suspensions should be directed downwards so that it will not interfere with the circulation of water, even when it is already partially filled.
Attention: on most filters, the arrow indicates the recommended direction of water circulation during installation. Yes, the filter will perform its function even if installed incorrectly; however, it will have to be cleaned much more often, and it will be much more difficult to remove ALL the sediment.
Formally modern pumps they work equally well both on the supply and on the return in any part of the heating circuit. However:
The optimal condition for an expansion tank is a water flow with a minimum of turbulence. In front of the pump, the jet in the circuit is almost laminar.
Do you remember our thoughts about the fact that it is highly desirable that the heating could work even when the electricity is turned off? Albeit with less efficiency?
How to install a heating pump with your own hands so that it does not interfere with natural circulation?
Let's think out loud for a bit. The gravity system is characterized, first of all, by the minimum difference between supply and return. Therefore, for an acceptable circulation rate, a minimum hydraulic resistance of the circuit is required.
What increases it?
By the way: it is from this point of view that only modern ball valves should be used in any autonomous heating system. Unlike their screw counterparts, they offer minimal resistance to water flow in open form. To understand why this is so, take a look at this type of open valve.
Conclusions?
Such a tie-in scheme has a weak point - the need to manually switch from the pump to the bypass when the light is turned off. Yes, if you're at home, it's hard not to notice a power outage; but what if all your family members are away?
The solution is a check valve. In normal mode, it closes; as soon as the pressure in the main circuit before the pump has become greater than after it, the valve is open. As always, there are subtleties.
All spring check valves exhibit a noticeable head loss: the water must overcome the resistance of the spring. Which, of course, goes against our goals. Exit - ball valve installed horizontally. Its resistance to water flow will be minimal, as will the pressure required to open the valve.
The most common problem that owners of country houses have to face in the cold season is the uneven distribution of heat in the heating system. natural circulation hot water in the circuit is often not enough: the liquid in the boiler reaches the boiling point, and the batteries in the back rooms remain barely warm. Modernize existing system not so difficult - you just need to arrange a forced water exchange using special equipment. But where to install the circulation pump so that it works as efficiently as possible?
Correct and incorrect installation of the circulation pump
Let's start with the fact that there are two ways to improve the situation with the heating of a private house - installing pipes of a larger diameter or installing a pump. The first option is used extremely rarely, since it involves a complete redesign of the system. It can only be considered when building a new house, and even then there are few who want to spend finances on an expensive network. It is much easier and cheaper to equip a new or existing system with a circulation pump.
What does the tie-in of the unit give:
Important! It is not necessary to design a heating system designed only for forced circulation. A prolonged power outage will cause the coolant to overheat.
Circulation pump connection diagram
Where to install the circulation pump? Formally, modern equipment works equally well on any part of the circuit - both on the supply and on the return. However, it is better to take into account certain nuances:
Important! Before installing a circulation pump, make sure that it is capable of handling boiling water.
Among other things, you will need a deep filter, a check valve, valves, a bypass, a set of wrenches and a factory installation manual for the pump.
Where to install the circulation pump so that it does not interfere with natural water exchange? The gravitational heating system is characterized by minimal differences between the supply and return pipelines, and for optimal speed, minimal hydraulic resistance is required. Any turns and bends of the circuit, stop valves and a decrease in the pipe clearance can worsen the situation.
Important! For autonomous system heating, only modern ball valves are suitable, which fully open the clearance in working order.
You can buy a ready-made bypass in the store
Bypass - a piece of pipe installed between the direct and return wiring - serves just to reduce Negative influence circulation pump for hydraulic resistance. The equipment crashes according to the following scheme:
Important! If natural circulation is not provided, it is necessary to install a circulation pump with a source uninterruptible power supply. These can be external batteries powered from a backup source.
Old heating system With natural circulation sooner or later begins to "sabotage" their duties. Rust, scale and sludge appear in the pipes, which reduce their clearance and prevent hot water from moving along a given contour. Before installing the circulation pump, it is necessary to carry out resuscitation measures:
Professional flushing of the heating system
Important! If your heating system is running on solid fuel boiler, it is better to install the circulation pump on the return line so that it does not overheat from too high a temperature.
To check the correct installation of the equipment and evaluate its performance, the system is filled with water. The central screw on the body of the apparatus is opened to remove air pockets. As soon as water appears, the pump can be started.
Spend installation work you can do it yourself if you have sufficient knowledge and are confident that you can apply correct scheme installation. If you have any doubts, contact the experts. It is better to spend a small amount of money on calling an installer than to eliminate the consequences of amateur performance in severe frosts.
In order for the heated water to flow more cheerfully through the pipes, a circulation pump is installed in the heating systems of private houses. This solution provides tangible benefits, which we will briefly introduce to you. But the main issue that concerns homeowners and is highlighted in this material, - where it is better to put the pump and how to properly install it. After all, the main part of the disputes and doubts is caused just by the place of insertion of the unit. And at the same time we will figure out how to connect it to the house electrical network with your own hands.
30 years ago, so-called steam heating was widespread in private houses, where a heat carrier was used that circulated through pipelines and batteries by gravity, and a gas boiler or wood-burning stove served as a heat source. Pumps for pumping water were used only in district heating networks. When more compact units appeared, they migrated to private housing construction, as they provided the following advantages:
Note. A minimum slope of 2-3 mm per 1 m of the pipeline is needed to empty the network in case of repair or maintenance. Previously, it was made at least 5 mm / 1 m.
At pumping systems there are disadvantages, where without them. This is the dependence on electricity and its consumption by the pumping unit during heating season. Therefore, with frequent power outages, the circulation pump must be installed together with an uninterruptible power supply or connected to an electric generator. The second drawback is not critical, if you choose the power of the device correctly, then the electricity consumption will be acceptable.
For reference. Leading manufacturers heating equipment, such as Grundfos (Grundfos) or Wilo (Vilo) have developed new models of units that can save electricity. For example, if you buy and install an Alpfa2 circulation pump from the Grundfos brand, it will automatically change performance depending on the needs of the heating system. True, its price starts at 120 USD. e.
Despite the abundance of information on the Internet, it is quite difficult for the user to understand how to properly install the pump for heating in order to ensure forced circulation of water in the system own house. The reason is the inconsistency of this information, which causes constant disputes on thematic forums. Most of the so-called specialists claim that the unit is placed only on the return pipeline, citing the following conclusions:
Interesting fact. Sometimes a person accidentally enters a boiler room that provides central heating apartments, and sees the local units embedded in the return line. After that, he considers such a decision to be the only correct one, although he does not know that in other boiler houses centrifugal pumps can stand on the supply pipe.
We answer the following statements point by point:
Hence the simple conclusion: it is allowed to embed circulation pumps for heating both in the return and in the supply pipeline of the heating system of a private house. This factor will not affect the performance of the unit or the heating efficiency of the building.
Exception - cheap solid fuel boilers direct combustion, not equipped with automation. When overheated, the coolant boils in them, since burning firewood cannot be extinguished at once. If the circulation pump is installed on the supply, then the resulting steam mixed with water enters the housing with the impeller. The further process looks like this:
For reference. In cheap heat generators made of thin metal, the response threshold safety valve is 2 bar. In higher quality TT boilers, this threshold is set at 3 bar.
Practice shows that no more than 5 minutes pass from the beginning of the overheating process to the valve actuation. If you install a circulation pump on the return pipe, then steam will not get into it and the time interval before the accident will increase to 20 minutes. That is, installing the unit on the return line will not prevent the explosion, but will delay it, which will give more time to fix the problem. Hence the recommendation: it is better to install pumps for wood-fired and coal-fired boilers on the return pipeline.
For well-automated pellet heaters, the installation location does not matter. You will learn more information on the topic from the video of our expert:
To begin with, let's specify the place where to put the flow pump, which ensures the circulation of water through the boiler and forcibly directs it to the radiators of the heating system. According to our, whose experience is trustworthy, the installation site must be chosen in such a way that the unit is convenient to maintain. At the supply, it should be after the safety group and the fittings cutting off the boiler, as shown in the installation diagram:
On the return line, the pump must be placed directly in front of the heat generator, and in tandem with a filter - a mud collector, so that you do not have to buy and install extra taps. The piping scheme of the pumping unit looks like this:
Recommendation. The circulation pump can be installed in this way both in closed and in open system heating, there is no big difference. The statement applies to collector system, where the coolant moves to the radiators through separate pipes connected to the distribution manifold.
A separate issue is an open heating system with a circulation pump, capable of operating in 2 modes - forced and gravity. The latter is useful for homes where power outages often occur, and incomes do not allow owners to buy an uninterruptible power supply or generator. Then the apparatus with shut-off valves must be placed on the bypass, and a tap should be inserted into a straight line, as shown in the diagram:
An important point. On sale there are ready-made bypass units with a pump, where instead of a tap on the duct there is a check valve. Such a decision cannot be called correct, since the check valve spring type creates a resistance of the order of 0.08-0.1 bar, which is too much for a gravity heating system. Instead, you can use a petal valve, but it must be placed only in a horizontal position.
Finally, we will explain how to install and connect the circulation pump to a boiler that burns solid fuel. As mentioned above, it is better to put the unit on the line going from the heating system to the heat generator, which is shown in the diagram:
As you can see, the piping uses a pump connected to the boiler circulation circuit with a bypass and the important role of these piping elements is described in detail
The design of a household circulation pump from any manufacturer provides for its fastening to pipelines or shutoff valves by means of union nuts (American women). This allows you to quickly dismantle it if necessary, for example, for replacement or repair. When installing the pump unit, observe the following recommendations:
Advice. It so happened that the load from the weight of the circulation unit will fall on 1 or 2 ball valves (depending on the orientation of the site in space). Hence the recommendation: do not save money and buy high-quality shut-off valves, whose body will not crack over time from mechanical stress.
Typically in a closed or open system radiator heating where a single boiler serves as a heat source, it is enough to install one circulation pump. In more complex schemes, additional units are used for pumping water (there may be 2 or more). They are placed in such cases:
Proper piping of several boilers operating on different types fuel, requires that each of them has its own pumping unit, as shown in the diagram of the joint connection of an electric and TT boiler. How it works is described in
In the scheme with buffer capacity it is necessary to install an additional pump, because at least 2 circulation circuits are involved in it - boiler and heating.
Buffer capacity divides the system into 2 circuits, although in practice there are more
Separate story - complex scheme heating with several branches, implemented in large cottages on 2-4 floors. Here, from 3 to 8 pumping devices (sometimes more) can be used, supplying the coolant floor by floor and to different heating appliances. An example of such a circuit is shown below.
Finally, the second circulation pump is installed when heating the house with water warm floors. Together with the mixing unit, it performs the task of preparing a heat carrier with a temperature of 35-45 °C. The principle of operation of the circuit below is described in detail.
Reminder. Sometimes pumping devices do not need to be installed for heating at all. The fact is that most electric and gas wall-mounted heat generators are equipped with their own pumping units built into the housing.
There are several ways to connect the power to the machine:
Warning. Often, homeowners simply plug the pump into a regular outlet by connecting the wires to the purchased plug. We cannot recommend this approach, because connection without grounding and a safety device is dangerous. In the event of a malfunction with the device or filling it with water, you risk an electric shock.
The first connection scheme is quite simple and any user can assemble it with his own hands. Requires a differential circuit breaker rated 8 A, wires and contacts. Connect to ground in this circuit as well as in all others.
To automatically stop the movement of the coolant when cooled to certain temperature, used circuit diagram connection of a circulation pump with a thermostat. The latter is attached to the supply pipe and breaks the power supply when the water temperature drops below the set value.
Attention! So that the thermostat does not lie and turns off the circulation in time, it must be attached to the metal section of the line. Polymers do not transfer heat well, so when mounted on plastic pipe the device will not work properly.
There are no difficulties in connecting the power supply through the UPS, for which the latter has special connectors. It is also worth connecting the heat generator itself to them, if it needs electricity. But connecting the pump to the boiler control panel or to its automation is a more complicated procedure. Here it is desirable to have knowledge and skills in the field of electrical engineering.
The purpose of forced circulation is efficient heating at home due to the reliable delivery of heat to all consumers of the system, up to the farthest radiator. To do this, the pump unit must develop required pressure(otherwise - pressure), which is ideally calculated by design engineers according to the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline network.
On most household pumps there are from 3 to 7 rotor speeds, due to which the performance and the generated pressure can be increased or decreased. In order not to torment you with hydraulic calculations, we offer the following method for selecting the optimal speed:
Advice. Do not switch the pump to a different circulation speed "on the fly". Disconnect it from the network, move the regulator to another position, and then put it back into operation.
A pyrometer can be dispensed with when thermometers are installed on the supply and return lines. If the adjustment limits do not allow you to enter the range of 10-20 ° C temperature difference, your system is not working efficiently due to an incorrectly selected circulation pump. Too much cold water in the return line gives an increased load on the boiler and fuel consumption. Too hot water means that it flows too fast and does not have time to transfer heat to the heaters.
For reference. The leading European brand Grundfos (Grundfos) offers the latest generation of circulation units Alpfa3, which can independently select performance depending on the load and in this way adapt the work to changing conditions. With their help, you can even balance the heating system, as our expert will tell you in the next video:
Now you know exactly how to properly install the circulation pump in the water heating system and connect it to the mains country house. This will keep you from committing different kind mistakes leading to minor and major troubles. Again, you can do the installation and piping of the unit with your own hands. The only difficulty is to embed it into steel pipelines connected by welding. But even here there is a way out: find a set of lerok for manual cutting pipe thread, cut a piece of pipe with a grinder and mount the pump assembly. The main thing is to have the desire and time to fulfill it.