How to carry out a quality repair of a bathroom without the involvement of specialists from the outside. Step-by-step instructions for repairing a bathroom and toilet Bathroom toilet in an apartment repair
Have you decided to do the repair of the toilet in the apartment yourself? Start with a budget. Decide what exactly you want to change and estimate how much it costs. If your desires coincide with financial capabilities, feel free to get to work!
How to start a toilet renovation
Before starting repairs, it is necessary to remove the old plumbing from the premises As a rule, they think about repairing a toilet several years, or even decades after they started living in an apartment. And this means that it makes sense to update absolutely all positions:
- if necessary, replace sewer and water pipes,
- replace the toilet and flush tank,
- waterproofing the ceiling
- waterproofing the floor
- leveling and finishing the ceiling, walls and floor,
Before making repairs, you must:
- clean up old plumbing
- or dismantle old tiles from walls and floors,
- clear the ceiling of concrete.
Plumbing repair
The most reliable option is metal-plastic pipes. They have the longest lifespan. If the pipes in your toilet are in “collars”, if they are rusted, and the neighbors below periodically complain about wet spots on the ceiling, then there is a need to replace the old pipes. It is best to replace them with modern metal-plastic ones. Today they are the most reliable and have the longest service life compared to others.
As a valve, it is better to install modern ball-type valves. They are also characterized by increased reliability.
To protect the plumbing system from harmful impurities and debris, it is recommended to install a water filter in front of the valves.
Sewer pipes are usually hidden by a bezel. Do not forget to leave room for the installation of a plumbing hatch. Its optimal value is from 50 to 70 in length and width. But anyway the hatch should provide free access to all the valves of the apartment, which are usually located in the toilet.
Waterproofing
If there is no way to lower the floor, then just raise the threshold in the toilet a little - it will become a reliable obstacle to spilled water When repairing the so-called "wet places", which include the toilet, it is necessary be sure to provide waterproofing. It will reliably protect this room from leaks from the top floor and keep water in the bathroom if something happens to your pipes.
To waterproof the ceiling, you need:
- thorough cleaning,
- primer treatment,
- applying a special mastic or mixture.
After that, you can plaster, paint or mount a stretch or suspended ceiling.
The situation with floor waterproofing is somewhat more complicated. In the toilet, as, indeed, in the bathroom, the floor level should be several centimeters below the floor level of the entire apartment. This is necessary so that accidentally leaking water does not flood your apartment, but remains on the toilet floor. If it is not possible to lower the floor, then before waterproofing, simply raise the threshold in the toilet a little - it will become a reliable obstacle to spilled water. The main thing in waterproofing the floor in the toilet is its absolute tightness., otherwise there is a risk of flooding the neighbors from below.
The floors in the toilet should be even, and the waterproofing should rise along the walls by at least 5-15 cm from the floor. The joints of walls and pipes with the ceiling and floor must be very carefully sealed to ensure that the toilet is watertight. The waterproofing layer in the toilet is most often performed with special polymer mastics or bitumen-based roll materials. And the joints are sealed with sealants. They perfectly protect the toilet from humidity, temperature changes and have great shock resistance.
Finishing mixes give the floor a finished look, make it flawlessly even and smooth. After laying the waterproofing layer, the floor in the toilet must be leveled. If the differences in the level of your floor do not exceed 1-2 cm, you can get by with a self-leveling mixture. To make it work the first time, prepare a dry mix (assuming that your self-leveling floor will be at least 1 cm high) you will need:
- a bucket in which you will dilute the mixture,
- drill with mixer attachment,
- needle roller.
You should act strictly according to the instructions:
- prepare the right amount of the mixture in a bucket, fill the floor with it;
- if you see that air bubbles remain in the mixture, carefully walk along the self-leveling floor with a spiked roller;
- let the mixture dry.
If the floor in the toilet has a skew of several centimeters, more time-consuming work awaits you:
- peeling sections of the concrete floor must be beaten off;
- cover all potholes and significant irregularities with a layer of a special solution;
- in order for the floor to turn out to be perfectly even, at this stage of work, a clear marking of the level is necessary. For this purpose, laser or water levels are used;
- having set the desired floor level, you need to thoroughly clean its surface;
- a primer must then be applied to increase the adhesion of the concrete floor to the new floor layer.
When leveling the floor, dry mixes based on non-shrinking cement are used, to which small fractions are added as an ideal filler.
Used for floor leveling starter mixes and finish mixes. Starter mixes designed for floor leveling finishing give it a complete look, as they make the floors flawlessly even and smooth.
Laying tiles
There should be equal spacing between tiles. For this, plastic crosses are used. Tiles are traditionally laid on the floor in the toilet. She not only looks great, but is also not afraid of moisture. Laying of floor tiles starts from the entrance to the toilet in such a way that the incomplete, edged tiles that end the first row are the same size to the left and right of the entrance. After the first row is laid, you can move deeper into the toilet.
There should be equal spacing between tiles. For this, plastic crosses are used, most often 2 mm in size. To adhere the tiles to the floor, a special adhesive is used, which is applied with a spatula on the reverse side of the tile or on the floor with a thin layer. To ensure that the floor is perfectly even, a level is used when laying.
Once the glue has dried, the joints are grouted. This is the final stage of laying floor tiles.
wall decoration
Plastic panels are the most economical option for wall decoration. They are easy to install and do not require additional maintenance. If desired, the walls can also be covered with tiles. It is also stacked on prepared using a level. Laying tiles starts from the floor and, if necessary, only the top tiles are trimmed.
In the corners, the tiles are stacked one on top of the other with a small gap, which will subsequently be grouted. You can also use plastic corners, which will give the tile finish a particularly attractive look.
In addition to tiles, the walls in the toilet can be finished with washable or vinyl wallpaper. Both of them perfectly tolerate cleaning and do not let moisture through. The most economical option for repairing a toilet is plastic panels. They are easy and quick to install. But when working with them, you need to be careful, as they are quite fragile.
Fans of a healthy lifestyle prefer to use wood as a finish. You can also use moisture resistant ones for these purposes. These thin and light slabs often have an attractive decorative surface that imitates natural wood.
Toilet ceiling repair
The false ceiling is easy to install, allows you to hide pipes, wires or a ventilation system if necessary In many ways, it depends on the height of the room and the size of the toilet. In a small toilet, it is advisable to simply paint the ceiling with light paint. This will visually enlarge the room.
If the room is quite spacious, you can make a suspended ceiling with a lot of light bulbs. For this, siding of various shapes and sizes is used - strips, slabs, etc. The advantages of such a ceiling are its simple installation, low price and the possibility, if necessary,, wires or ventilation system. The ceiling can be covered with light wallpaper.
So, a little theory, preparing the right amount of finishing materials and a few days of painstaking work - and the toilet updated with your own hands is ready!
Sooner or later, any person one way or another is faced with the repair of the toilet. You can entrust this work to professionals, or you can save money and do everything yourself. In this article, we will analyze in detail what work is to be done and in what sequence it is better to carry it out.
Any enterprise begins with a comparison of desires and opportunities. If finances allow, then the boundaries of desires are very conditional. We will talk about a decent repair of the toilet with our own hands with a minimum budget. This is the foundation for the rest of the story.
Planning the process itself has a clear sequence:
- Complete cleaning of the premises;
- Replacement of plumbing communications and electrical wiring;
- Preparation of surfaces for finishing work;
- Finish:
- Paul;
- Stan;
- Ceiling.
- Plumbing installation.
The zero point should be set to "Design development and purchase of materials." But this can create confusion. Therefore, describing each stage, we will justify the advantage of certain materials. The cost of all finishing elements, for objectivity, we took from YandexMarket.
Room cleaning
Complete renovation, declares the absolute cleaning of the room. Nothing should remain in it, except for the pipes of the common riser.
The sequence must also be observed. First, the tiles are chipped off the walls. Depending on the quality of the connection, this can be done with a puncher in the “chiselling” mode or with a simple ax, using it as a spatula. They pass along the bare walls with a drill, with a brush nozzle.
Explanation: it is quite possible to lay a new tile on an old covering. But in this case, it will take 3-5 cm from the height of the room.
Only after that whitewash is washed off the ceiling. At the same time, they wash off the dust from the walls and the floor.
Plumbing is dismantled at the very last turn. To do this, shut off the water supply to, unscrew the mount and remove the toilet drain outlet from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is very old, then it will have to be broken out, since the drain was sealed with cement mortar. The entrance to the sewer pipe is cleaned of pieces of sanitary ware and cement.
On the hole, until the end of the work, they put on a plastic bag and tie it with a rope.
Explanation: Dismantling the toilet allows you to create a solid floor covering, without painstaking trimming and fitting tiles. In addition, subsequently the toilet can be easily replaced.
Replacement of communications and wiring
Independent replacement of a water riser is never carried out in practice. The reason is the need to shut off the water supply in the entire riser, and this is the prerogative of plumbers from the service organization. But the more important factor is time and guarantees.
Replacing the riser pipes with your own hands without professional skills will require leaving residents without water for the whole day. It is unlikely that your neighbors will tolerate this. Specialists will cope with this task much faster.
The quality of the work carried out has a deeper connotation. If the replacement of the riser is carried out by specialists from the Housing Office, according to an official application, then in the event of leaks or any emergency, the responsibility will fall on the installers. Otherwise, you will have to pay for the repair of flooded apartments.
But you have the right to choose the material for the riser within your apartment. The most affordable and high-quality material is polypropylene pipes reinforced with fiberglass. They are suitable for both hot and cold water.
The layout of the apartment can be done independently. The best material for this purpose is corrugated stainless steel. At a price it is more expensive than or polypropylene pipes, but you get:
- Savings on the corners;
- Aesthetic appearance;
- Virtually unlimited service life;
- Extremely easy installation.
The cost of 1 meter of corrugated stainless steel pipe ø 16 mm is 92 rubles. An important condition for long-term service is the use of brass fittings.
Wiring will require upgrading if you want to install several lights in a miniature toilet. And this happens very rarely.
A very good solution would be to install a tubular energy-saving lamp above the entrance, parallel to the doorway. In this situation, the wiring can not be touched.
Preparation of surfaces for finishing
As a result of this paragraph, all surfaces should be smooth and even. The easiest thing to do with the floor. For leveling, you will need to use a quick-drying self-leveling screed. For 1m 2, with a thickness of 1 cm, 13-14 kg of dry mix will be required. For a toilet, 1 bag is enough, weighing 25 kg and priced at 400 rubles.
The floors are primed first. We recommend that you immediately prime the walls and ceiling. The mixture is diluted according to the instructions on the package and poured. In order not to make a layer too thick, disperse it a little with a spatula. The complete curing process takes 24 hours.
Aligning the walls in the toilet is a conditional task. The fact is that in such a small area, littered walls are extremely rare. Therefore, if the walls of the toilet are concrete, then a primer is enough, and if they are plastered brick, then putty will be required.
For putty you need:
- Working spatula 30 cm long;
- Auxiliary spatula 5 cm long;
- Putty mixture 20 kg (Weber: Vetonit 310 r);
- Drill with nozzle and container.
Setting time for cement-based putty is ≈ 90-120 min. Dilute 2-3 kg of dry mixture, following the instructions on the package. Then, using a short spatula, apply a small amount of mortar to the long spatula. Applying the working tool at an angle of 20-30˚, spread the mixture along the wall from the bottom up. Sequentially apply new portions of the mixture.
By adjusting the angle between the wall and the spatula, you can get different effects. At an acute angle, gaps and cavities are filled, at an angle close to a right angle, the applied composition is leveled.
Excess material, spreading to the edges of the tool, is collected with a short spatula, and again applied to a long spatula.
Do not try to achieve a perfectly smooth surface in one pass. Having processed all the walls and after waiting 3-4 hours, you can again walk through problem areas.
Pay special attention to the corners. They are unacceptable sagging and rounding. Geometric accuracy should not be achieved in all corners, they will be covered with finishing materials, but the excess in them should be removed.
After a day, the walls can be treated with sandpaper to get a high-quality coating for further work.
The final chord of this stage is the primer of the prepared walls and floor.
There is almost always a slab on the ceiling, so no preparation is required other than priming.
Finishing work
floors
The specifics of the room limits the choice of flooring. Of all the options, only self-leveling floors and tiles are suitable for the toilet.
Self-leveling floors look attractive, but they have two huge drawbacks:
- High price;
- A very complex process.
If you use them, it is better in a place where they are visible. In the toilet, they will be hidden. So, there is only one option - tiles.
Considering that the toilet has been dismantled and the base has been prepared, laying tiles in the toilet with your own hands is an extremely easy process. The choice of tiles is a very sensitive issue. We do not have the right to advise on color and pattern, but we will help you figure out the dimensions.
The dimensions of a standard toilet in an apartment are 0.8 by 1.2 m. For ease of use, try to find a tile that fits into these dimensions without waste, for example 40 x 30 or 40 x 40. In this case, you will need to glue only 8 or 6 elements . Please note that the smaller the number of elements in the mosaic, the easier it is to work. And for the price, such a choice will be quite acceptable. For example, from the manufacturer CERROL, in the Nero (Black) series, 1 m 2 of a 40x40 tile will cost 1304 rubles. There is enough for the toilet and there will be practically no waste left.
There is another option for light flooring in the toilet - mosaic tiles. These are ceramic tiles measuring 2 x 2 cm, glued to the substrate. By choosing the size of the sheet, you can cover the entire area in 2-3 steps. But this option, subsequently, will not prove itself in the best way.
The fact is that small elements of the floor covering visually reduce the dimensions of the toilet.
Eunice 2000 tile adhesive in a 5-kilogram package will help to cope with the task perfectly. Its price is 130 rubles. Consumption ≈ 4-5 kg/m2.
You will also need:
- notched trowel;
- Crosses;
- Laser level;
- Square.
The thickness of the crosses is not more than 1-2 mm. In a small room, large seams will not look aesthetically pleasing.
The method of laying tiles is straight. The toilet is too small a room to lay out a beautiful pattern in it.
Work progress:
Dilute the adhesive following the directions on the package. If you, following our advice, have chosen a large tile, then knead the entire package. While the mixture is swelling (4-5 minutes), set the laser level so that the horizontal beam is projected at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. TIP: it is most convenient to put it on a horizontal sewer pipe. All laser levels have a self-leveling head, so even if there is a slight tilt, the beam will still show the true horizon.
The floors are swept. Apply the finished adhesive to the tiles with a notched trowel. Please note: the adhesive must be smeared over the entire surface. This will not only increase the adhesion area, but will also allow you to drill holes for attaching the toilet in the future without fear of splitting the tile.. The thickness of the adhesive must not exceed the thickness of the tile! Put the tile in place. Sticking is better to start from the wall opposite to the entrance. Move the glued element with an amplitude of 2-3 mm.
Sequentially applying a square to each corner of the tile, compare the level at which the laser beam is projected. If necessary, trim the tiles.
Similarly, glue the second tile, align it and then insert the crosses. There should be 2 crosses on each side of the tile.
With proper planning, cutting the tiles will only be necessary once to bypass the riser pipes. For this, it is best to use a grinder with a cutting disc. ATTENTION: the disc must be specialized, without radial cuts.
Use a tape measure to measure the distance you need to cut. Most likely, it will be the corner sector. Set aside the obtained dimensions on the front surface of the tile.
Tip: stick masking tape on the tile, it is more convenient to mark it on it.
Lay the tile on a flat surface and fix. When working with a grinder, be sure to use glasses!
It is necessary to cut through, so there should be soft material under the tile (a wooden block or two pieces of plasterboard).
The cut edge can be processed with sandpaper.
If gaps of 1-2 cm remain, then evenly distribute them in such a way that they fall on the gap between the tile and the wall. Subsequently, they will be closed with wall finishing materials.
According to the outlined scheme, all floor tiles are glued. After a day, you can walk on it and at this time they begin to grout the seams. The best material for filling tile gaps is silicone sealant. It is easy to work with, after drying it gives an elastic seam with impeccable hygienic characteristics.
To work, you only need white silicone sealant in a tube and a lint-free cloth.
Cut off the spout of the tube so that the thickness of the exiting silicone is minimal. Insert the container of caulk into the gun and apply even pressure along one of the seams. Excess silicone protruding outwards is removed with a slightly damp cloth. The slots must be filled flush.
The silicone should dry out within 3-5 hours. Then cardboard should be laid on the floor, and you can start decorating the walls.
Walls
Wall decoration possible with two materials: ceramic tiles or wall panels. We do not consider painting and whitewashing in principle, while other materials have low moisture resistance.
Tile is a traditional option for the toilet. Looks presentable, lasts a very long time. But there are points on which it is inferior to plastic panels. In particular, :
- Cheaper;
- Glued easier, faster, do not require professional skills;
- Models with 3D effect look great;
- You can easily change and "refresh" the appearance;
There is another nuance that can affect your choice. In the toilet, it will be necessary to close the water riser. If you use wall panels, then it will be possible to close this unsightly necessity with them without much difficulty and preliminary preparation.
In addition, you can improve the appearance by choosing wall panels 40 cm wide, just the size of the tiles. All decoration will take on the appearance of a finished composition.
To fix the wall panels, "Liquid nails" are needed. We recommend using Moment Installation.
For work you will need:
- Wall ;
- Liquid nails with a gun;
- Hacksaw for metal;
- Construction knife;
- Roulette and marker.
Gluing the panels starts from the place where they fit entirely, without cutting in width. Measure the height and set aside the required size on the panel. Sawing off excess with a hacksaw, make sure that the lamella does not bend and break at the very end of the cut.
The glue is applied in continuous strips, along the entire length, the diameter of the outgoing roller is 4-5 mm. There should be a distance of 5-7 cm between each strip of adhesive. Immediately place the panel in place, and move it slightly from side to side to spread the adhesive. But immediately remove this panel, and give an exposure of 3-4 minutes. This is required for the adhesive composition to interact with atmospheric oxygen.
After exposure, the panel is glued. To control the vertical position of each plank, use a plumb line. Press the lamella firmly for 30-40 seconds and move a little
All panels are fixed in the same way. But to bypass the water riser, proceed as follows.
Explanation: Between the front and back of each plank, there are stiffening ribs. If you cut the back side of the panel along the entire length along these edges, then it can be bent and pasted over rounded areas.
In the place where the riser is located, on the reverse side of the panel, the back sheet is cut off along with the stiffeners. Additionally, the lower part is cut where the sewer pipe drain exits. To make a neat outlet for water pipes, they are unscrewed from the stopcock on the riser. And on the panel, a hole is made according to the size of the outlet itself. Such an operation can only be carried out if you work with wide panels!
A horizontally lying sewer pipe can be pasted over with scraps of wall panels, leaving a hole for connecting a toilet bowl.
This option for finishing the walls in the toilet will avoid the use of end strips. After all, the edges near the entrance will be closed with a door cashier.
Instead of a skirting board, glue a flashing. In appearance, it is the same, only narrow.
Ceiling
The decorative finishing of the ceiling in the toilet, when the walls and floor are already decorated, should be started as a final chord that will complete the whole composition. If there are large dark tiles on the floor and dark panels on the walls, then the ceiling should be white and gold.
There are two options, this is a rack ceiling or PVC ceiling panels. In appearance of the finished coating, they will practically not differ. But here the rack ceiling will “steal” at least 7 cm from a height, due to the fastening system. And its installation will take an order of magnitude more time.
With PVC ceiling panels, the whole process will take 40-50 minutes.
Given that they will look the same, a sane person will choose PVC ceiling panels.
Using the example of two-section strips with gold, produced by Olimpia, we will describe the installation process. The width of the slats is 24 cm, the length is 3 m. The price of one plank is 180 rubles. 2 panels are required for the ceiling in the toilet.
They are glued to the same "Installation Moment". The slats are adjusted in length and glued, starting from the entrance, according to the technology described above.
Around the box covering the riser, the panels are trimmed with a construction knife.
Plumbing installation
Installation of plumbing consists of two stages:
- Installation of a toilet bowl with a tank;
- Connection to the system.
The option with a hanging toilet bowl is not even accepted for consideration. Its diminutiveness is just a marketing ploy to increase sales and create another group of products. After all, the mounting system and the cistern of the hanging toilet will require a minimum of 20 cm from the back. In other words, the dimensions of the toilet will in fact become 0.8 x 1 m.
Therefore, we will install a conventional toilet. To fix it, you will need to drill 2 or 4 holes in the floor. In this case, you first need to drill the tile. This can be done with a diamond-coated tubular drill by switching the puncher to the “drilling” mode.
Having passed the tile, the perforator is switched to the "chiselling" mode, and a drill is placed.
Dowels are hammered into the holes with a mallet and the toilet bowl is fixed through plastic washers.
TIP: Apply silicone sealant to the base of the toilet. After pressing to the floor, excess silicone will squeeze out, they must be removed immediately. But on the other hand, such sealing will not allow water to penetrate under the toilet bowl itself, during wet cleaning.
To connect the toilet drain hole with the entrance to the sewer pipe, use a corrugated adapter.
The hoses for supplying water to the tank, in modern models, have a sealing rubber gasket and do not need rewinding. Additionally, plastic lugs are integrated into the hose heads, they allow you to do without an adjustable wrench.
Tsugunov Anton Valerievich
Reading time: 5 minutes
The toilet is one of the smallest rooms in the house, which is visited quite often. This combination creates certain difficulties: care should be taken that the atmosphere of this room is conducive to peace, is cozy and functional, and the decoration is practical, but a modest area limits the possibilities and dictates its requirements. Therefore, when starting a budget repair of a toilet with your own hands, it is necessary to responsibly approach the choice of materials, think over the design of the room in advance, and draw up a work plan. And inspiring photos, original ideas and useful tips that you will find below will help you with this.
Toilet renovation steps
So, the decision to repair was made, at the family meeting they discussed and approved the budget - it remains only to figure out where to start the repair. Even for experienced craftsmen, a small repair of a toilet in an apartment risks turning into a headache if you do not adhere to a clear action plan, which will look something like this.
- Decide on the design of the toilet.
- Select and purchase the materials you will need for the repair.
- if they have fallen into disrepair.
- Prepare the floors, walls and ceiling of the toilet - remove the old tiles, clean the surfaces.
- Lay the necessary communications - electrical wiring, propylene pipes, etc.
- After completing all the preparatory work, you can carry out repairs to the floor.
- If necessary, install a plumbing cabinet.
- Repair the ceiling and walls.
- After that, the final finishing of the floor in the toilet can be done.
- Install the toilet on the prepared floor.
- Then everything else is mounted - lighting, ventilation, washbasin and so on.
- Finish the walls and ceiling.
- Install a boiler.
- If necessary, replace the toilet door.
The list is significantly reduced if you have planned a simple redecoration of the toilet without replacing plumbing and laying new communications.
Choosing a toilet design
Starting planning the future design of the toilet room, consider both your own wishes and current fashion trends. To do this, you can visit friends and relatives, noticing interesting solutions in the design of the bathroom. Or you can look for inspiration on numerous sites where people share their experience in repairing a toilet with their own hands, post photos, and discuss bold ideas.
When choosing a design, pay attention to the following tips:
- Small or colorful details should not be used, as they can create a subconscious feeling of anxiety, which can negatively affect bowel function.
- The toilet is not the best place to use bright, saturated colors. It would be better to opt for pastel, muted colors.
- Vertical stripes on the walls will turn an already small and narrow bathroom into a kind of tower. A horizontal drawing, on the contrary, will “push apart” the walls, make the space more harmonious, proportional.
- The division of the wall horizontally into two sections using the principle of the golden section looks beautiful. You can choose contrasting color combinations.
- Objects hanging overhead - shelves, cabinets, a boiler - do not affect the physiology in the best way. Try to place them in more suitable places or somehow disguise them.
- And finally, when making flooring in the toilet, it is better to choose fairly dark colors - dark yellow, brown or gray.
The choice of materials for the repair of the toilet
When choosing materials for repair, it must be taken into account that a liquid saturated with biologically active substances (biologically active substances) still gets on the floor in the toilet, although in small quantities. And also a certain amount of substances with a sharp unpleasant odor evaporates into the air - ammonia, hydrocarbons, etc. In this regard, you should think about how to abandon a number of materials, even despite their external attractiveness.
- It is not recommended to use wooden panels in the toilet, as well as MDF, laminate and similar organic coatings - they are porous and quickly absorb unpleasant odors and moisture, becoming a breeding ground for germs.
- Porous tile is not suitable for repairing the floor in the toilet - it can be calculated by the color of the reverse side, which is different from white. With such a tile, an unpleasant smell will linger in the toilet for a long time.
- Washable PVC wallpapers, paper wallpapers, armstrong false ceilings and foam plastic ceiling panels also perfectly retain odors.
Good to know: paints based on organic pigments and fillers quickly lose their attractiveness, acquiring yellow and dark shades.
What materials are suitable for renovation in the toilet?
- For cladding - porcelain stoneware. Density, resistance to chemicals and strength fully pay off its cost.
- Tiles - faience or kaolin (white on the reverse side, at the break the material is shiny, fine-grained).
- Choose a paint with mineral pigments and with a filler of microcalcite (marble flour). A filler made of dolomite flour will be a little worse, however, such paint can last 7–10 years.
If you decide to stick washable wallpapers, then they should be made of polypropylene, foam or polyester.
- Profiles for plasterboard structures - only galvanized or aluminum, the plasterboard panels themselves - must be moisture resistant (green).
- The plaster can be any, but after the composition has hardened, do not forget to impregnate it with a deep penetration concrete primer.
- As a waterproofing, it is recommended to use polyester or aquaizol.
Self-leveling floors are the best choice for a toilet. The base floor screed is based on cement, and on top of it is a liquid polymer.
Many are afraid to start repairs on their own, even in a small toilet. are afraid that their skills are not enough to replace the toilet or install the panel. Therefore, it is worth listening to the advice of craftsmen who have already carried out repairs with their own hands, a video with lessons on this topic will not hurt to carefully study. Even a simple photo can make it much easier to understand how to make repairs in the toilet with your own hands.
Tsugunov Anton Valerievich
Reading time: 6 minutes
Repairing a toilet in an apartment is not an easy task, despite the seemingly small amount of work. The lion's share of difficulties is connected precisely with the size of the room and with the installation of plumbing and pipes in the toilet: risers, wiring, sewerage. Of course, it is better to entrust specific work to professionals, but it is quite possible to cope with cosmetic repairs without outside help. Let's find out how to do it, saving time, nerves and money, and find out where it should start.
What is the order in which toilet work is carried out?
Even a small repair of a toilet in a panel house will require a large number of different tasks. In this small room there are many different communications: pipeline, sewerage, heating, lighting. Often the toilet itself needs to be replaced. In some cases, a defective overhaul report may be required.
First you need to decide on the sequence of repairs in the toilet. Repair begins in an old house or in a new building with the development of design and calculation of the necessary materials. It is advisable to perform further repair steps in the following order:
- removal of old coatings from the ceiling and walls;
- replacement of heating risers and sewerage pipes, ;
- replacement of wiring (if necessary);
- cleaning of the premises;
- preparation of the floor, pouring the screed, laying the floor covering;
- installation of wall coverings (wallpaper, tiles, panels);
- if necessary - assembly of a sanitary cabinet;
- toilet installation;
- installing a new door.
Even the most modest repair in the toilet takes a lot of time and requires a significant investment, since plumbing is expensive. The most inexpensive repair option in the toilet is a simple cosmetic one, when the drain or wiring is not changed, but only the ceiling and walls are refreshed.
toilet design
Quite often, the toilet is a tiny room in which, as they say, you can’t turn around. In houses of the 137th series, the toilet, in which, in addition to the riser and pipes, there is also a ventilation shaft, is so small that there is practically no free space between the toilet bowl and the door. Within such a small room, design development before the start of repairs requires a special approach. When thinking through, it is necessary to take into account some important nuances.
- The central object of the toilet is the toilet bowl. First of all, it must be comfortable. Snow-white sanitary ware looks best, although other colors can be chosen. The main thing is that it fits the overall interior.
- A great option for a small room is a built-in toilet. This is a practical solution: the tank and sewer pipes are removed into the sanitary cabinet, dirt, dust, microbes do not accumulate on them. Cleaning becomes much easier. In addition, the toilet on the installation moves a few centimeters deeper into the toilet, which makes staying in a small room more comfortable.
- Most often, heating risers and meters for water supply are installed in the toilet. They are also recommended to be sewn into a beautiful plumbing closet. The interior will only benefit from this. Opposite the meters and taps, a hinged hatch should be provided so that at any time you can turn off the water or view the readings.
If you are tired of standard solutions, you can look for ideas on the Internet and create an unusual toilet interior in a new building. An interesting option is shown by the following photo.
You can decorate the toilet with wallpaper or paint the walls in an unusual way, but aggressive tones or excessive variegation should be avoided.
A black and white toilet will look stylish and non-standard, especially if you pick up black plumbing in high-tech style.
Renovation materials in the toilet
The load on the toilet room is quite specific. There is often high humidity, pollution and unpleasant odors are not uncommon. Therefore, the toilet should use finishing materials that do not absorb odors and dirt, resistant to high levels of humidity, and easy to clean.
To repair and level the floor surface in the toilet, it would be advisable to use self-leveling floors. The mixture must be prepared on a cement basis. For finishing, it is desirable to use porcelain stoneware tiles.
To level the walls of the toilet in a new building, you can use drywall, but only its moisture-resistant modification (a distinctive feature is the green color of the sheets). Aluminum profiles are recommended for the frame, because the wood quickly rots from dampness, is affected by fungus. Drywall can be tiled, painted or wallpapered.
The ceiling surface can be painted or a stretch ceiling made of PVC film can be installed, which will help prevent damage to the finish in case of leakage from neighbors from above.
Doors to the bathroom can be either standard or smaller, as in the houses of the 137 series. And this creates a lot of problems for the owners, because finding such a canvas can be problematic. Here you can give only one recommendation - the door should be deaf.
We start repair
When all questions on materials are resolved and a design is chosen, you can begin the repair process. Where to start repairing the toilet? From the dismantling of old materials: the toilet bowl is removed, coatings, wallpaper are removed, garbage is removed, etc.
Repairing a toilet in a new building is easier to do: there is no need to change pipes, dismantle the old finish.
The next stage of the repair is the installation of a new sewer. Now they use plastic. It is much lighter and cheaper, but is not inferior in strength to traditional materials. When buying any plumbing kits, you need to check if all the rubber gaskets are in place. If they are not enough, there may be problems with sealing the joints.
Then they change the pipes and wiring. Risers are now also made of polypropylene. They must be rigidly attached to the wall, especially the hot water pipe, as they can be deformed under the influence of high temperatures. With the economy option, the pipes are not touched, because the price of repairs increases noticeably from this. If the toilet is suspended, an installation is installed at this stage of the repair.
When making electrical wiring in a toilet in a new building, you need to remember that the wires must be hidden in a special corrugation, and junction boxes and wire connections must be moved outside this room.
Another point is ventilation. Often it is clogged, so you need to clean it and close it with a special grate.
For effective ventilation, it is desirable to equip a forced exhaust.
The repair is completed with the installation of a toilet bowl and the assembly of a sanitary cabinet.
Repair cost
Knowing how to make repairs in the toilet and what kind of work you have to do, you just have to decide whether you can do everything yourself or is it better to entrust some of the work to professional craftsmen.
The price of a cosmetic repair of a turnkey toilet in Moscow fluctuates in the range of 14-25 thousand rubles, in St. Petersburg such a repair will cost 10-22 thousand rubles. The price for a major overhaul with the replacement of pipes starts from 35 thousand rubles.
You can save money by doing some of the work yourself, for example, dismantling the old coating, making a screed, etc. If you have no experience in performing any operations, you can watch training videos, look through photos in search of inspiration.
Sooner or later, all of us have to deal with such a problem as the repair of the toilet room. Unlike other premises, for a quality repair, it may be necessary to replace sanitary ware, water pipes, and install meters. And the cost of finishing can vary significantly, depending on the material chosen. In this article, we will analyze how to do quality work at minimal cost and where to start repairing the toilet.
The entire toilet repair process can be divided into separate stages for convenience.
Before starting all work, it is necessary to work out the design and layout of the bathroom, select the expected type of finishing materials and plumbing, and draw up an estimate taking into account unforeseen expenses.
Room cleaning
A complete repair in Khrushchev means cleaning everything installed in the toilet. Only supply pipes, a riser and bare walls with a ceiling should remain. For convenience, it is better to carry out in the following sequence:
- We beat off the old tiles from the walls with a puncher or a hammer with a chisel. It is also better to remove old plaster or wallpaper by first soaking it with water. If we finish on the old flooring, we will have to reduce the size of the room by 3-5 cm, which is undesirable for such a small space. In addition, it is unreliable and short-lived.
- We remove the tiles on the floor. We clean the resulting surfaces with a metal brush nozzle on a drill.
- We wash the whitewash from the ceiling and wash off the dust and dirt from the walls.
- Now you can start dismantling the plumbing. To do this, the cold and hot water supply valves are blocked. If the combined bathroom is being repaired, then it will be necessary to disconnect the sink along with the faucet and drain. Usually, after old sinks, fastening brackets remain - they also need to be dismantled.
- The toilet itself can be left until the last, so that it can be used. Before removing, we drain the water from the tank, unscrew the toilet bowl to the floor and beat off the drain into the riser, if it is cemented. We remove the drain pipe to the very riser, it will no longer be useful.
The better the room is cleaned at this stage, the easier it will be to deal with finishing work later, especially with tiles and wallpaper. The exception is pvc paneling, for which it is enough to make a frame over old walls.
Replacement and repair of communications
Having gained open access to the riser and the supply pipes of hot and cold water, you can begin to replace them, repair, and install meters. In old houses, the wear of all communications reaches the limit, so you should take care of replacing the riser and pipes in your apartment. The best material for the riser will be reinforced polypropylene, and it is better to entrust all work on its replacement to specialists from the Housing Office. It will be faster and better than self-replacement. Responsibility for the work performed and possible accidents will lie with the installers and the management company.
Further intra-apartment wiring can be done on your own using a metal-plastic pipe or corrugated stainless steel. Plastic pipes are well cut and easily connected to each other using fittings and a special soldering iron. Such a connection turns out to be very reliable and durable, and a wide range of pipes and fittings allows you to build wiring of any configuration in the bathroom.
The gray or white pipes themselves look quite aesthetically pleasing, but it would be more correct to put them in special boxes, which will then be covered with finishing materials.
For a small toilet, this is the best solution - the riser is closed with a vertical one, and the piping is closed with a horizontal box made of moisture-resistant drywall or plywood. Soundproofing can be additionally laid in a vertical box.
It is also possible to lay the pipe in a specially hollowed-out cavity in the wall. This option looks more aesthetic and takes up less space. It is only necessary to take care of the easy accessibility of the valves that shut off the water to the apartment.
Surface preparation and cladding
It is best to start with the walls and ceiling. So concrete walls are easy enough, but brick or cinder block walls may be required. In general, planes in such small rooms are rarely with strong deviations, otherwise you will have to resort to plasterboard lining or PVC panels.
For puttying, we need two spatulas - a worker, 30 cm long and an auxiliary, 5 cm long, a cement-based putty mixture, for example, Vetonit. Preferably a drill with a special nozzle and a bucket. The finished mixture is applied with a short spatula to the main one, and then smeared from the bottom up along the wall. By changing the angle of inclination of the working tool, it is possible to fill deep cavities and level the already applied putty. After 3-4 hours, problem areas can be re-treated. The time for complete drying of the putty is 24 hours. Then the wall is sanded and primed.
After leaving the walls to dry, you can start leveling the floor. For this, a quick-drying screed is used. The mixture is prepared based on 1 m2 with a thickness of 1 cm, 12-13 kg of dry material will be required. The resulting solution is poured in a thin layer on the floor, and then leveled with a spatula, referring to the installed beacons and level. It is necessary to obtain a flat horizontal surface.
When all the preparatory work is done, it is time to realize the conceived ideas for repairing the toilet. It is also better to start fine finishing from the walls and ceiling.
Wall coverings
When choosing a material, you must be guided by the same principles as for a bathroom or a combined bathroom. In old houses, the toilet is a small unventilated room with high humidity, in which wet cleaning will be carried out periodically.
Therefore, preference is given to moisture-resistant materials that do not absorb odors and are easy to clean.
Most Popular:
- PVC panels are cheap, quickly glued, do not require pre-preparation of the walls. A very wide selection, including models with a 3D effect and a pronounced texture. Great option for a bathroom refurbishment.
- Ceramic tiles - captivates with its characteristics and noble design. It is durable, it does not form a fungus and mold. This type of coating always looks expensive, the only negative is the cost and difficulty of installation.
- Wall-paper for a toilet, vinyl and non-woven washable, and also glass wall-paper are well suited. It is better to refuse paper or natural ones because of their high hygroscopicity and ability to absorb odors. You can use liquid wallpaper, but in any case, careful preparation of the walls will be required and waterproofing is desirable to avoid the appearance of mold and fungus.
- Acrylic or oil-based paint is the most budget option, but not very beautiful.
Wallpaper in the toilet
PVC panel walls
Laying tiles is similar to the work done on the floor in the toilet, and the installation features of plastic panels should be considered in more detail.
- We measure the area of \u200b\u200ball walls minus windows and a doorway. This also includes the cost of lining technological boxes and make a small margin for trimming and fitting. All pvc panels are produced in lengths from 2.5 to 3 meters, the standard width is 30 cm. We calculate the integer number of planks and additional elements - corners, skirting boards, connecting profiles.
- We attach a crate of wooden slats or a metal profile to the walls. They should be located horizontally and as often as possible for greater rigidity of the entire structure. Fastening is carried out using dowels. At this stage, we fix the embedded rails for mounting hanging cabinets, mirrors and water heaters, we lay the wiring to the sockets and switches.
- Fasteners of the first panel start from the corner. We fix it with a self-tapping screw with a press washer or small nails, each subsequent one is inserted into the groove of the previous one. This is how the seamlessness of the coating is achieved, and it is impossible to make a mistake with such an assembly.
- Excess material can be cut off with a knife or grinder. After completion of work, the corners are closed with additional elements, and the joints of the floor and ceiling with skirting boards.
- Sheathing the ceiling with pvc panels is carried out in a similar way.
Wall and floor tiling
Ceramic tiles are found on sale in any size, color range and for any budget. This material is very durable and practical, which is why its popularity is so high. The disadvantages include only laboriousness and a large amount of dust and debris.
Consider how to make repairs in the toilet using tiles:
- Walls and floors must be pre-prepared and primed. You can additionally apply an antifungal primer, and if laying is on top of drywall, then a special mixture such as concrete contact, for better adhesion. All communications and wiring are laid in cable channels.
- We start laying tiles on the floor from the corner near the front door. For walls, it is necessary to screw the base metal profile around the entire perimeter, carefully aligning it in level.
- The glue is sold in dry form and is prepared in small portions immediately before laying in order to have time to use within 30 minutes. The kneading is carried out using a drill with a nozzle.
- We apply glue with a notched trowel from the bottom up, the layer of glue should approximately correspond to the thickness of the tile. The first tile is placed in the corner, next next and so on. At intervals we fix plastic crosses to ensure the uniformity of the gaps.
- Floor tiles can be laid at a time, and wall tiles, due to their heavy weight, are best not to stick more than 3-4 rows at a time. It will be right to take a break for a day so that the glue finally grabs the wall.
- The tiles are cut with a special tile cutter, you can use a grinder with a special abrasive disc. During this procedure, marriage is possible, so the number of tiles should be purchased with a margin.
- After the tiles have finally stuck, the crosses can be removed, and the joints can be filled with cement grout - a fugue. This is done with a rubber spatula, and the shade of the solution is selected to match the color scheme of the toilet. It is better to choose a grout for the floor in a dark or gray color - it will not get so dirty underfoot.
Plumbing installation
When all the dirty finishing work is finished, you can proceed to the final stage of repairing the toilet. You should start with the installation of the toilet.
- Having installed the toilet bowl on the floor, it is tried on and its location and attachment points are marked with a marker.
- We remove the toilet bowl to the side and drill holes for the dowels with which it is attached to the floor.
- We fasten the toilet bowl, close the bolt caps with decorative caps.
- We connect the toilet pipe with a corrugated pipe with a pipe on the riser. We seal with special rings with cuffs so that the connection is tight.
- From above, we install a flush tank on a special platform or fasten it to the wall. We collect the insides of the tank - a float, a valve, a flush lever and connect it to the cold water pipe according to the instructions.
If the dimensions of the room allow or the bathroom is combined, then it is necessary to install a sink and a faucet. For ease of installation, it is better to assemble and connect the mixer before attaching the sink to the wall. Having attached the washbasin to the wall with dowels or anchors, we proceed to connect the flexible hoses to the threaded fittings that were previously removed. Lastly, we install a siphon and drain into the sewerage system with a seal with a rubber cuff.
After installation is complete, it is necessary to flush the entire system with plenty of water. All identified leaks are repaired. Now you can close communications and drains with a decorative pedestal or cabinet. The joints between the floor and the toilet can be filled with silicone sealant.
With a minimum tool and finishing skills, you can easily realize your creative ideas for repairing the toilet. You can do it yourself - quickly and inexpensively.
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