An easy-to-make device for chamfering wooden blocks and narrow boards, as well as for planing and other types of processing of round or faceted wooden blanks.

When planing wooden blocks and narrow boards, it is almost always necessary to remove small bevels from the ribs in order to dull them to one degree or another. However, for this you have to hold the planer obliquely, approximately at an angle of 45 degrees, which is not always convenient, especially when working with electric planers.

You can get out of this situation if you do special device in the form of a long longitudinal corner, in which the processed bar would be laid and thus the edge from which the chamfer needs to be chamfered would be on top.

In addition, such a device could also be used for planing faceted and round wooden blanks (for example, handles for garden tools: shovels, pitchforks, rakes, etc.), which are very inconvenient to plan on a flat surface.

I thought about making such a device, just when I was planing blanks for the handles of shovels (see my article ""), since with such a device my work would go much easier and faster.

As a result, I decided to make this device, for which I needed the following accessories:

Materials and fasteners:
Two wooden planks 2 cm thick, 4 cm wide and 6 cm wide, and 2 m long.
Wooden plank 2 cm thick, 5 cm wide, and 50 cm long.
Wood screws 4x50 mm.

Tools:
Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square).
Awl.
Electric jigsaw with a file for a figured cut.
Electric drill-driver.
Drill for metal with a diameter of 4 mm.
Spherical cutter for wood.
Screwdriver bit PH2, for driving screws.
Sandpaper.

Operating procedure

First, we mark a bar 6 cm wide, and drill along its entire length, on one side 5 or 6 holes for screws.

FROM opposite side planks, we countersink these holes for the heads of the screws using a spherical cutter for wood.

Then we insert screws into these holes and screw our bar to the end of another bar 4 cm wide.

As a result, we get such a wooden corner 2 m long.

After that, using an electric jigsaw, we cut out such a blank from a short bar.

It will serve as a stopper for planed blanks, and at the same time, a support for our device.
We also mark this workpiece and drill three holes for the screws in it.

And then with screws, we fasten this workpiece to the end of our corner fixture.

From the remaining piece of the plank, we cut out two more such blanks with an electric jigsaw.

We will screw them to the back of our device, where they will serve as additional supports.

In the very back of the fixture, we drill two holes for the screws on each side.

We also countersink the upper parts of these holes with a spherical wood cutter in order to drown the screw heads.

Now we screw our blanks with screws.

All elements of the fixture, and especially the ends, are processed sandpaper.

And now our device is ready!
This is what its back looks like.

And so is the front.

Now on this device it will be possible to process the bars.
Here, for example, I put a blank bar for the shovel handle into this device - rear view.

And this is the front view.

But the bar is not square, but rectangular in cross section. Now it will be quite easy to chamfer with such bars.

But I put in a fixture, a purchased handle for a shovel, round in section.

Such round blanks, now it will also be very convenient to process in this device. Moreover, they can not only be planed, but also carry out other types of processing, for example, drilling holes in them or sawing them.

Well, that's about all! All for now and convenient devices in the work!

Chamfer: what is it and why is it needed?

This is a specially obtained edge on the end surface sheet metal or on the pipe wall, beveled at a certain angle.

Main destination - preparation of rolled metal for further welding work.

Why is chamfering necessary?

The processing of the ends of the sheet or pipe walls is needed for:

• Good penetration and reliable connection of welding seams
• Reduced welding time
• Employee injury prevention sharp corners products
• Simplification of the forthcoming installation of the erected metal structure
• To not carry out manual grinding edges of the edge of a sheet or pipe

If chamfering is not performed, then in products whose thickness exceeds 5 mm, the welding seam may disperse over time and the structure will lose strength.

Chamfering Angle

Chamfering Angle from the edge of the sheet or pipe is selected based on design features product or welding task. As a rule, the standard chamfer angle for metal sheet profiles is 45°, for pipes - 37.5°.

There are three ways to cut the edge from rolled metal:

• Y-shaped way;
• X-shaped;
• J-shaped (another name is a "glass" chamfer);
• Also, in the technical literature you can find other letter designation: V, K and U-Chamfer.

Peculiarities different types chamfer

• The most common way of bevelling in production is the Y-shaped method and the X-shaped one.
• For high-precision welding seam (for example, on products complex design) use a chamfer with a curved surface.
• J-chamfers are made using special automatic bevelers. This method creates a larger weld pool than other methods.

Other types of edge cutting(butt type of connection with a broken edge) is not used so often in production.

Features of the chamfering process

For cutting edges on a metal product, special units are used - bevelers, differing in the method of cutting into three types (air-flame, mechanical and gas-oxygen equipment).

The cutting process is as follows:

1. With the help of clamps, the beveler is attached to the edge of the sheet or inside metal pipe.
2. Next, the required sharpening angle is set.
3. When the machine is turned on, the cutting head is brought to the product and the chamfering process takes place.
4. After the end of the work, the cutter returns to its original position.
5. After cutting the bevel, working surface the product is considered prepared for further welding work.

When cutting a chamfer, a welding tank (bath) is formed, where the hot welding composition is collected. The edge with a chamfer has a certain bluntness of about 3-5 mm. When the container is filled with welding compound, the blunt area melts itself. Due to this, the desired tightness of the seam is achieved and additional reliability is created.

Edge cutting methods

Currently, two methods of edge removal are used in production: thermal and mechanical.

Mechanical chamfer is considered the highest quality, since this method is performed on special equipment - beveling machines (edge ​​cutters), milling machines, bevelers and other devices. Advantages this method are as follows:

• After chamfering, the product retains its structure and does not lose its physical chemical properties
• The mechanical method provides high tightness and reliability of future welding seams
• Saving time.

thermal method- air-plasma chamfer and gas-flame chamfer. Air-plasma cutting of edges allows you to get appearance chamfer close to the factory (or mechanical chamfer). However, it requires perfect smooth surface sheet or pipes at a certain angle. In many industries, this type of chamfering is the main one because of the economy and high speed of processing products. It is carried out on special plasma-cutting equipment.

Gas-plasma chamfer cutting does not require special conditions performance and low cost. But the quality of the cut is lower than with the mechanical or air-flame method. Often such chamfer cutting requires additional machining. This method is used for artisanal processing of used pipes. Using the thermal method of chamfering (gas-plasma and air-plasma chamfering), a section with changed physical and chemical properties (thermal influence zone) appears in a metal product due to overheating. This negatively affects the tightness and reliability of future welds and the strength of the structure itself.

Mechanical chamfering preserves the properties of the product and does not affect the quality of future welding work. Mechanical chamfering is a kind of guarantor of the quality of processing metal products before welding. The only "minus" of this method is the high cost of the units and the laboriousness of the work.

You can find out the cost of mechanical bevelers by phone ☎

First make a body-block

1 For the manufacture of body A, a blank with a size of 25x35x152 mm is required. (We cut it out of a 45mm thick maple board. You can glue a block of thinner boards.) Copy the cabinet template to match the slope saw machine left or right). Cut the template along the contour and glue it with spray glue to one of the sides and the end of the workpiece, bending along the fold line.

2 To make an angled sole on body A, tilt the saw blade of the machine at an angle of 45° away from the longitudinal (parallel) stop and adjust the depth of cut to the cut mark 1 on the template. (On machines with right tilt saw blade set the longitudinal stop to the left of the disc. If the blade tilts to the left, leave the stop to the right of it.) Secure the stop by aligning the disk with the oblique line on the template and make a cut (fig. 1, step 1). Then return the saw blade to the vertical position, adjust the depth of cut to the kerf mark 2, align the blade with the line on the template and make the second cut (fig. 1, step 2).

3 File body A across to the final length. Save the cut.

4 To make a notch in the middle part of body A, first attach a 100 mm high wooden extension to the movable (corner) stop of the machine. Glue the body to it with double-sided tape on a fabric basis, tilt the saw blade of the machine at an angle of 20 ° and make two cuts, as shown in the photo “Tips 1 and 2”. When sawing, pass the planer body together with the trim through the saw blade and turn off the machine. Do not slide the workpiece back over the rotating disc. (The photo shows the machine with a right-hand tilt saw blade, and the body with the fence bar is to the right of the blade. On a machine with a left-hand tilt of the saw blade, the body and fence should be on the left.)

5 By grinding, make roundings on the body in the places indicated on the template. Delete the template.

Now add cheeks

1 Saw and file a 6x38x203mm blank for cheeks B, C. (We used bubingo wood to make the planer fit with other tools in our collection series. Walnut or cherry can be a good substitute.) Make copies of the templates for the left and right cheeks and glue them to the blank aerosol adhesive. Cut out the cheeks with band saw or jigsaw and sand to final form. On the milling table edge cutter make roundings with a radius of 3 mm on the cheeks in the places indicated on the template (photo "Tip 3").

2 Glue the right cheek B to the body A, aligning it in the center (Fig. 2) and fix the gluing with clamps. When the glue dries, glue the left cheek C to the body, flush with the sole and with equal indents in front and behind.

3 Take the scrap left over from the body blank and use it to prevent chipping when drilling the hole for the brass rod (photo A).

4 Remove the trim and cheek templates, then finish sanding the planer. Soften slightly the sharp edges of body A by sanding.

5 With a hacksaw for metal, saw off a piece 40 mm long from a brass bar with a diameter of 5 mm and insert it into the holes of the cheeks, while on one side the brass rod should protrude by about 6 mm. Apply a drop of "second" (cyanoacrylate) glue to the protruding end of the rod, and then push it further into the holes. On both sides, the rod should protrude from the cheeks by about 0.8 mm. Once the glue has set, use a file and sandpaper to line up the protruding ends of the rod flush with the sides of the case.

Make a locking wedge

1 Cut out a 6x25x76mm blank for the wedge (we used the same material as for the jaws). Make a copy of the wedge template. Use spray adhesive to glue the template to the top and one of the sides of the workpiece, bending it along the fold line.

2 Set to jigsaw machine file #12 and, placing the workpiece on the side with the template up, cut out the side outline of the wedge. Guide the cut along the contour with an indent of about 0.8 mm in order to subsequently fine-tune the thickness of the wedge. double sided tape on a fabric basis, glue the sawn off part of the workpiece to the wedge. (photo B). Then cut out the top outline (photo C).

3 Insert the blade into the case so that cutting edge protrudes slightly from the sole, and fix it with a wedge. Adjust the blade reach and tighten the wedge by hitting the front end of the body with a mallet. By carefully grinding the front end from above, adjust the wedge, achieving a tight pressing of the blade. Then finish sanding the wedge, slightly rounding the ribs on the back of the wedge.

4 Coat all parts of the planer with clear finishing coating(we used three coats of Watco Danish Oil, following the directions on the can).

According to the magazine "Wood-Master"

All photos from the article

Which parquet board is better with or without chamfer? What are the advantages of having a chamfer, what problems can it create for the owner of an apartment or house? How to chamfer when making parquet from solid wood with your own hands? Let's figure it out.

What it is

A chamfer is a beveled, rolled edge parquet board. They highlight the seam between adjacent boards, emphasize it, giving the surface a three-dimensional look.

Note!
The chamfers give the three-layer parquet board a more expensive material- Solid wood parquet.
This tendency to stylize cheap materials as expensive ones is in demand, because the building materials market, as you know, is formed by buyers.

According to the shape and depth, several types of chamfers are distinguished:

1. Microbevel (depth 0.5 - 1 mm);
2. V - shaped, about 2 mm deep;
3. Deep (from 3 mm) rolled, rounded;
4. Deep (from 3 mm) V - shaped;
5. Deep planed.

The chamfer can be two- and four-sided. In the first case, it is removed only on the side edges of the board, in the second - from all four sides.

Useful: double-sided chamfer highlights longitudinal seams.
They, in turn, visually lengthen the floor of the room, making it look like a corridor.
If in an already elongated room, the obvious instruction is to prefer a coating with seams highlighted on all four sides.

Pros and cons

Let's compare two types of parquet boards according to the main consumer characteristics.

It would seem that an objective comparison is not in favor of the board, which has so rapidly pressed the competing solutions. Highlighted seams are conspicuous and, contrary to the claims of numerous sellers, accumulate dirt. Perhaps we are missing something?

Advantages

The main advantage of the material with a bevel in the eyes of buyers is, of course, its more attractive, solid appearance.

However, the list of dignity is not limited to them.

• Fluctuations in the dimensions of the parquet board with increasing and decreasing humidity are absolutely inevitable. dry and warm air a room heated in winter causes the wood to dry out; since the strength of click locks is limited, the seams between adjacent boards always become visible sooner or later. However, when the seam diverges in a deliberately made recess, it does not catch the eye - the joint still looks presentable;

A chamfer is the surface of a product, which is formed during the processing of a rolled product or pipe by a bevel of the end edge of the material. A chamfer is necessary to prepare the edges of sheets, beams and pipes for welding.

The main types of chamfers are:

1. "Gas". This is the most cheap look chamfers for pipes due to their low quality. However, this type is one of the most common. This chamfer is removed using . Chamfer "Gas" can be made in field conditions. Its surface is usually with characteristic grooves, which are formed from a gas jet (propane or acetylene).
2. "Plasma". Outwardly, this type of chamfer is practically no different from the "mechanics". It can also be attributed to the "factory". The "Plasma" chamfer is an air-plasma cutter, a compressor and, forcing the cutter to move strictly in a circle, when a certain chamfer angle is set.
3. "Mechanics". This is a factory chamfer best quality. For cutting the chamfer "mechanics" are used and. In the pipe market, this chamfer is mainly used due to High Quality chamfers.

What is the purpose of chamfering? When welding blanks, the metal is melted, which subsequently ensures the connection of the edges with each other. If the thickness of the metal is more than 3-5 mm, obtaining a complete and high-quality connection becomes difficult. To obtain high-quality penetration, this type of processing is carried out: it allows you to create a so-called weld pool, which is filled with a welding compound during the welding process. It is important to remember that an edge prepared for welding is an edge with a chamfer and blunting (see the figure and symbols for it below).

Types of chamfers (methods of cutting edges).

There are three main ways of cutting edges for welding: Y-shaped, X-shaped, and J-shaped. Sometimes in some sources they are denoted by letters: V, K and U, respectively. Hereinafter, the above methods will be denoted by the letters: Y, X. J. Most often, a Y-shaped cutting of the edges is carried out, but there is also an X-shaped method. In special cases, when there is an increased requirement for the quality of the weld, a J-shaped chamfer is used, that is, a chamfer with a curved surface (not to be confused with edge curvature!).

In addition to the main ways of processing Y, X. J edges, there are a number of edge preparations. They are not so rare, and not everywhere you can find their description. For example, GOST 5264-80 describes a butt joint type with a broken edge bevel; symbol- C14.

The diagrams above show some examples of processing methods:

1: an example of a Y-shaped chamfering method;

2, 3, 4: examples of the X-shaped chamfering method;

5: Y-shaped processing of the ends of two pipes with their subsequent connection;

Chamfering methods.

Chamfering can be done in two ways: mechanical and thermal (table 1). Mechanical chamfering is performed using milling, beveling and edge-cutting machines. For thermal chamfering, flame cutting machines (stationary or portable) are used that perform plasma or oxy-fuel cutting. However, the mechanical method is more preferable, since it makes it possible to exclude changes in the physical and chemical properties of the material as a result of overheating. As you know, during heat treatment, a so-called heat-affected zone is formed. The heat affected zone is the carburization of the edge due to overheating of the material, which impairs weldability and increases the brittleness and brittleness of the edge. But, despite these shortcomings, the thermal method is quite common due to its simplicity and speed of use, and the relatively low cost of equipment.

Table 1. Advantages and disadvantages of thermal and mechanical ways chamfering.

Table 1 says that thermal chamfering can be done quickly and cheaply. Of the processing methods described above, mechanical is still preferable, since it allows you to save the metal from overheating and from subsequent changes in physical and chemical properties. In the West, by the way, this method is called cold-cutting (cold working), that is, a type of processing in which there is no thermal effect on the metal, which means there are no changes in chemical and physical properties metal.

Video footage:

1. Cutting a pipe with a gas cutting machine CG2-11G, simultaneous chamfering of the pipe is carried out by tilting the cutter at the required angle.

2. Chamfering from a 76x6mm pipe with a Mangust-2MT machine

3. Pipe chamfering with a TT series chamfer, and pipe chamfering with a P3-SD split pipe cutter

The group of companies "SPIKOM" offers for delivery equipment for chamfering pipes and metal using all of the above processing methods (gas, plasma, mechanical).