Production, processing and operation of wooden utensils. Maslovovsk Master. Hard wax oil to protect wooden utensils and wood products How to coat wooden utensils for food

15.06.2019 Boilers

A simple thing to apply is sunflower oil, stain and varnish fall off immediately. For many, the question arises of warming or not warming, but still warming, although not up to high temperatures, due to oil burnout (bad burnt smell).

Soak a wooden spoon, keeping it in the aisles for twenty minutes, then dry it, then after each use and washing the dishes, it should be wiped with a napkin soaked in natural oil.

You can choose your own oil according to tastes and preferences, for example, sea buckthorn oil or some other. But you need to know that after sea buckthorn oil, although the dishes take on an amber appearance, the oil quickly discolors and the spoon takes on its former appearance.

I once covered a spoon twice and sent it to a friend from Moscow. But when he sent me a photo, I was very surprised the spoon went stained, and in some places there was no oil at all.

Linseed oil good remedy to cover wooden utensils. AT early times all wooden kitchen utensils were impregnated only with this.

It is better to use artistic bleached, you can buy it at any art paint store. Application:

  1. Do water bath, (take a pot of water and place a smaller container of oil in it, and lower the object into the oil);
  2. After the bath, wipe the accessory clean, gradually cooling;

Dry in the sun and here's why

They do this to accelerate polymerization (ultraviolet contributes to this process). Wood treated in this way is more resistant to moisture and mechanical stress.

In a similar way, you can soak with sea buckthorn and any other, everything depends on performance characteristics kitchen utensils.

And now why is it necessary - oil impregnation

The main goal of increasing the service life, the second is the exclusion of unpleasant odors due to the absorption of the wood surface of everything that gets into the dishes. The oil prevents the object from spilling and blocks the formation of odors.


There are many interesting articles on the Internet on processing with various mastics, pastes, etc., which give it interesting smells, colors and properties.


In this article, we will consider the simplest of them.


In the next season, we planned to begin to abandon turning utensils, replacing them with ceramic and wooden, hand-cut. But the events of a warrior field with an overturned table and broken ceramic bowls and mugs forced me to postpone making such a decision.

Well, back to our impregnations.


One of the simplest impregnations that protect wooden utensils from cracking is boiling them for 5 minutes in hot oil. It is a little better to take refined, in order to rid the dishes of the unnecessary sugary smell of oil. And if there is nothing terrible in this smell for a bowl and a spoon, then such smells are usually not desirable for a mug. The meaning is this. 2 liters of refined vegetable oil are taken, poured into a large saucepan, heated, the dishes are not placed in a warm one, brought to a boil and cooked for 5 minutes. In this case, the dishes must be turned over so that the oil soaks it from all sides. Tableware acquires a pleasant golden hue, appetizing smell, not afraid of hot use, i.e. will not crack from hot soup or tea, well, it acquires a relative water-repellent ability. But in order to prevent excess oil from getting into food, it is necessary to first rid the dishes of these surpluses. To do this, wrap it in toilet paper and put it on the battery. This will absorb the excess oil into the paper. Then you need to repeat this process of getting rid of unnecessary residues 3-4 times with the replacement of paper.


In general, everything is quite simple. But I was not entirely satisfied this way. My bowl was still leaking a little in the core area and it annoyed me terribly.

I got a new bowl. And I rushed to experiment with other types of impregnations.
Most of all I liked combined method wax and oils.


We melt beeswax, add some vegetable oil(a couple of tablespoons), and with a new clean brush, we begin to apply it to the outer surface of the bowl, as well as to its bottom. In order for the wax to be better absorbed, you can preheat the surface with a hairdryer. We do this until the wax begins to show through. reverse side. After that, leave the bowl to dry, and put refined vegetable oil on the stove to warm up. After it has warmed up, turn the bowl over and begin to coat the inside of the bowl with a brush until the oil is no longer actively absorbed. All these operations are best done on a bed of napkins. And it’s better to cover everything around with newspapers from accidental splashes.


But here we now have wax smudges on the outside and excess oil on the inside. We remove them in the following way. Stuffed in a bowl toilet paper, start warming up with a hairdryer outside, removing excess wax with an unnecessary rag. When heated, excess oil will be released from inside and soak into the paper.
That's how it is so))))))


Then we expose the dishes to the air, with a new portion of paper inside. Let it dry. The excess will soak into the paper.
In general, it is always better to store dishes in an open state. Do not put it in bags and cabinets, otherwise it may become moldy.


After the festival, after thoroughly washing and drying the dishes, put them on open space. will serve as an excellent decoration for your interior, and she will feel great.
Ceramic dishes are also best stored in open form, otherwise you can get bad smell or mold in it.

Wooden utensils have a long history. Before spoons and dishes began to be poured out of metal and plastic, our ancestors carved their kitchen utensils from bars of fruit and forest trees: linden, birch, oak, cherry, plum, juniper.

Modern people, tired of "artificial life", began to return to the traditions and customs of the Russian people. Crockery and kitchen utensils from natural materials is gaining popularity, because holding a warm, “living” tree in your hands is much more pleasant than cold metal.

For such dishes to serve long life, it needs to be processed. This is especially true of carved spoons, which are used more often than other products. And here it is important to know how to process a wooden spoon for food so that it remains intact and your health does not suffer.

In our article we will talk about processing recipes wooden spoons hot oil and how to make wax paste.

How to choose the right oil for processing and impregnation

There is no single correct answer to the question of how to soak a wooden spoon. Various craftsmen, by trial and error, derive individual recipes, and advise this or that oil. The main rule is that the oil must be edible.

Advantages of oiling kitchen utensils:

  • Edible oil does not cause any harm to the body;
  • It has good waterproofing properties, closing even the most microscopic cracks in wood;
  • Does appearance products more attractive.
an example of carved wooden spoons from our catalog (covered with beeswax on the right)

by the most simple option can be refined sunflower oil, which is sold in any grocery store. If you are a beginner and just trying yourself in this business - this option will be optimal. One of the most popular oils for processing wooden spoons is linseed. Even in the old days, all wooden utensils were impregnated with it. It is better to buy bleached flax oil, which is sold in art stores.

When the question arises, how to cover a wooden spoon so that it acquires beautiful shade, masters advise sea buckthorn or pumpkin. But in general, any edible oil is suitable for impregnating a wooden spoon: olive, hemp, sesame, coconut, walnut and others.

How to cover and how to oil a wooden spoon for food

Impregnation - there are two basic way(often this process is called how to paint a wooden spoon, although it is not actually painted):

  • Using only oil
  • Using a composition of oil and beeswax (mastic)

In the first method, it is soaked in a bowl of oil, and set to bask in a water bath. It is better to keep the temperature within 80 degrees Celsius without letting the oil boil. Periodically turn the product over so that there are no “dry” places left, and the oiling goes on evenly. The first signs that the process has begun are air bubbles that appear on the surface of the wood. As soon as the air stops escaping, you can turn off the fire and let it cool naturally.

We take out the spoon, wrap it several times in a paper towel. When excess oil remains on the napkin, dry the product in the sun for 3-4 days. After that, you can safely use it. If necessary, the procedure repeat several times. Flaxseed oil is an excellent antiseptic. The wood impregnated with it will no longer crack, and will not be covered with mold or fungus.

Some craftsmen, in order to give the tree a pleasant smell, make tinctures from oil and medicinal herbs and roots. As such plants, you can use mint, dandelion, burdock, cinquefoil roots or elecampane. The plant is crushed, poured into a glass dish, poured with oil and infused for about two weeks, shaking daily. Then filter and store in a dark cool place. Tannins, which are contained in the roots of plants, give the oil increased protective properties, what wooden surfaces only for the benefit.

In the second method, melted beeswax is added to the oil. Depending on the initial proportions, either soft or hard mastic is obtained. Soft woods are best treated with hard mastic, and hard woods with softer ones.

How to varnish wooden spoons

If you plan to constantly use a wooden spoon for its intended purpose, then it is better to refrain from coating it with varnish. Over time, even the most expensive and high-quality varnish can crack due to temperature changes, and moisture in the wood leads to its decay. Oil treatment is considered the perfect way preserve and protect wooden utensils from environmental influences.

Making wooden spoons is easy and fascinating process, allowing you to touch the age-old traditions of arts and crafts. To create such products, you will need a minimum of tools and materials. Making spoons with your own hands is a great opportunity to hone basic carving skills and get a better feel for how wood and carving tools behave. You can experiment with the shape and size of the spoon, as well as the design of its handle, creating a unique utensil that is not only decorative, but also functional.

In our material, we will tell you in detail how to make a spoon with your own hands, introduce you to the basic carving techniques and answer questions. topical issues relating to the manufacture of wooden utensils.

What are wooden spoons made of?

What wood is best for carving wooden utensils? This important question worries all novice carvers. For cutting spoons best fit blanks from hard, but not prickly hardwood - aspen, ash, maple, birch, elm, walnut, cherry or maple.

Beginner carvers it is better to use lime. This wood is softer and lighter, has a uniform density and is well planed in all directions. For gaining experience and practicing basic carving skills, this is the most suitable material. Among other things, linden products are not prone to warping and do not emit tannins.

Coniferous trees unsuitable for the manufacture of spoons because of its high resin content and characteristic odor. Also avoid exotic tropical woods such as teak, which can be toxic.

As a blank, you can use planks or split the whole deck-ridge into small pieces. The first option is more practical, the second is more traditional. The orientation of the wood fibers in the blank determines the symmetry of the pattern of the bowl of the spoon, as shown in the photo.

A set of basic tools

To make a wooden spoon with your own hands, you will need a minimum set of simple tools:

  1. Knife. For wood carving, it is better to use the Bogorodsk knife. Its two-sided sharpening makes it equally convenient to work both “on your own” and “on yourself”, and a narrow nose makes it possible to cut wood along internal lines.
  2. Spoon cutter (staple). This is a chisel with a sharp bend, designed for scraping wood in recesses and processing the inner walls when carving dishes. An alternative to a spoon cutter can be a wide cranberry or an ordinary semicircular chisel.
  3. straight chisel- used for even cutting of solid wood from the workpiece.
  4. Clamp- necessary for convenient fixation of a piece of wood.
  5. File for roughing and sandpaper different grits (320, 180 and 120 grit) for flawless polishing products.
  6. Stichel- a thin steel cutter, for creating decorative carvings on the handle.

How to carve a wooden spoon: step by step guide

  1. Using the template, transfer the drawing of the top and side views to the wooden blank. Please note that the orientation of the wood fibers is longitudinal, in this case the spoon will have maximum strength.

  1. Having fixed the workpiece with a clamp, proceed to the rough formation of the bowl. For these purposes, a spoon cutter is used, but you can also confine yourself to an ordinary semicircular chisel or a wide cranberry. Wood is sampled in the direction of the fibers. When deepening the bowl, do not forget that you need to leave a small thickness allowance for fine trimming and grinding.

Hollow out the bowl on the workpiece rectangular shape much more convenient, since the piece of wood is rigidly fixed and maintains a stable position.

  1. When the recess is formed, you can start cutting off the excess array in the horizontal and vertical plane, following the top and side contour. To do this, it is most convenient to use a jigsaw or band saw, but if you wish, you can perform all the manipulations with a straight chisel or a hacksaw.

  1. Using a Bogorodsk knife, we cut off the convex part of the spoon. With a wide chisel, we give the bowl a perfectly even rounded shape. With the help of a knife and a chisel, we work out the shape of the handle.

  1. Using a spoon cutter, finish trimming the bowl and carefully align its edges, as shown in the picture.

  1. Grinding is carried out in two or three passes, each time reducing the grain size of the abrasive.

Advice!

When in contact with water, even a perfectly sanded surface can begin to pile. Raised pile does not spoil the appearance of the spoon, but is unpleasant in the mouth. Therefore, if you plan to use your own hand-made dishes for their intended purpose, you can solve this problem in the old proven way. After grinding, the spoon is wetted and thoroughly dried, passing again with a fine-grained abrasive. This procedure is repeated two or three times.

Our version of making a spoon is more of an adapted technique. It is designed to be used modern instrument, which, although it simplifies the workflow, but at the same time moves away from centuries old traditions carving art.

The secrets of the original Russian carving of a wooden spoon - see the video below:

How to cover a wooden spoon for food?

The final touch of creating a wooden spoon is its processing with a finishing compound. And here, as a rule, many questions arise. If you cut out a decorative spoon, then everything is simple: you can paint it with paint, apply any lacquer coating or wax. With products that are planned to be used for their intended purpose, everything is more complicated. When choosing a composition for impregnation, it is important that it be practical and safe.

In the Russian tradition, they used and continue to use for processing wooden spoons. This impregnation is environmentally friendly, has antibacterial properties, emphasizes the texture of wood, and is easy to apply. But it will have to be updated periodically. However, using raw linseed oil as a finish, over time, it can begin to transfer an unpleasant rancid smell to food.

More practical solution is the use of special mineral oils for finishing wooden utensils. Such impregnation gives the surface water-repellent properties, while it does not form a film - the pores remain open and the wood continues to breathe. Mineral oils do not affect the taste of food and are more persistent.

About practicality and food safety finishing compositions we spoke in detail in our .

There is such a problem that after washing the spoon loses its luster and swells.

It is very important what the spoon is carved from: not every wood is suitable for making wooden utensils from it. For such products, it is best to take wood that is relatively resistant to the action of water, especially hot water, and to heat in general.

Spoons can be cut from linden, aspen, alder, birch or maple. Linden is more often taken, since its wood is quite soft and easy to cut.

We, however, like oak spoons the most - they last the longest, from experience. Lime spoons (although not from spoons - professionals, but from the store - apparently without processing) have already been tried a couple of times - they begin to mold. But probably if you take it from spoons, this will not happen. We also had juniper spoons, smoother than oak ones, but they last less.

The finished spoon should be polished. In order to make it waterproof, the spoon is impregnated with linseed oil. Then the product is dried for 2-3 hours at a temperature not exceeding 100-120 ° C. The dried spoons are allowed to cool, and then again covered with oil and dried again. Impregnation with oil and drying must be repeated several times: it is enough to process small spoons like this 2-3 times, and large ones are subjected to the same operation 5-6 times. After that, the spoon is no longer afraid of anything. :-)

The final finishing of the spoons is that they are covered with drying oil (lining oil should, of course, be only natural - from linseed oil). Then the products are dried again - for several hours at a temperature of 100-120 0 C, until completely dry (touch the product with your finger, if the finger does not stick, the spoon has dried up). The spoon processed in this way will acquire a pleasant yellowish-brown hue, and hot water she is not afraid.

In the old days there were special rules for using a spoon. After each scooping of food from a common bowl, the spoon was licked on both sides and lowered back onto the table; only after chewing the food, they again took the spoon from the table and scooped it out of the bowl. The one who did not let go of the spoon was considered gluttonous.

Meat was eaten only when there was no other food left in the bowl, and only after the owner instructed to hit the table with a spoon.

If someone behaved at the table not as it should be - laughed, talked, then he was punished by hitting his forehead with a spoon.

Various signs associated with spoons were observed. It was impossible to put a spoon so that it rested with a handle on the table, and with the other end on a plate, since unclean forces could penetrate into the bowl along the spoon, like over a bridge. It was not allowed to knock spoons on the table, because from this “the evil one rejoices” and “the sinister creatures come to dinner” (creatures personifying poverty and misfortune). It was considered a sin to remove spoons from the table in a prayer, on the eve of the fasts laid down by the church, so the spoons remained on the table until the morning. You can’t put an extra spoon on the table, otherwise there will be an extra mouth or evil spirits will sit at the table. As a gift, it was necessary to bring a spoon for housewarming, along with a loaf of bread, salt and money.