To the choice of soil for plants, like no other, the expression: “Caesar’s is Caesar’s, and the clerk’s is clerk’s.” Indeed, each flower needs its own special soil. Of course, there are group features, that is, plants can be combined according to growing conditions, which means according to soil requirements. This allows you to select a mixture not for one flower, but for a group. Otherwise, transplanting and planting flowers would turn into a titanic work - try to pick up an individual mixture for each flower, verified like in a pharmacy.

Nevertheless, the health of the flower depends on what kind of soil is used. From the soil, the flower receives all the necessary nutrients. The condition of the roots and the aerial part of the plant depends on the composition of the soil. And therefore, you need to know at least the basics of soil science and the main features of selecting soil for flowers.

Acidic or alkaline?

When do we face the issue of soil selection? When we transplant flowers or plant on permanent place. If you have such a question, first decide which of the main groups your pet belongs to. Plants are distributed in relation to the acidity of the soil. After all, the mixture can be either alkaline or acidic. But it's also not so clear cut.

For example, some flowers require slightly acidic soil, others of medium acidity, and still others will look good if they are planted in acidic soil. Same with alkaline soils. Give some slightly alkaline soil, and others with a pronounced alkaline reaction. There are also supporters of neutral soil, and some plants weaken in it.

Therefore, to select the soil, first find out what kind of reaction your flower needs.

Soil of medium acidity or acidic (pH = 4.5 - 5.5): azaleas, calla, heather, anthurium, rhododendron, ferns, fuchsia.

Slightly acidic soil (pH = 5.5 - 6.5): asparagus, begonia, pelargonium, primrose, amaryllis, aralia, ficus elastica.

Neutral soil (pH = 6.5 - 7): roses, cineraria, saxifrage, levkoy or matthiol, chrysanthemums.

Alkaline soil (pH = 7): heliotrope, calceolaria.

At home, the acidity of the soil can be easily checked with litmus paper.

Components

The reaction of the soil depends on what components are included in the earth mixture. In nature, the composition of the soil depends on the environment: the vegetation around, the presence of ground and surface waters and their composition, soil layers and much more. And for indoor flowers, we can pick up the components ourselves and get them either in nature or in a store (you can even buy something in a pharmacy).

So, the main components of the earth mixture: turf, leaf, manure-humus and peat land. Also important components include: river sand, tree bark (mainly coniferous), moss (sphagnum).

What is each of the components?

This is a very nutritious land. It is the result of overheating of the sod layers. They are piled in a heap, grass to grass and shifted with layers of cow dung. This "pie" is left to rot for a year. After that, use for flowers that love acidic soils. Since sod land has an acidity of pH 5-6. It is mixed with other types of earth, clay or sand.

leaf ground

It is a very light and loose earth. It passes air and water well to the roots. But the nutritional value of leafy land is average. Such land is obtained as a result of the overheating of the leaves of deciduous trees. They are collected in the autumn in a heap and left for 1-2 years. To make the process go faster, the heap layers are turned over and watered. It is also used to enhance the acid reaction.

peat land

Peat soil is especially loose and light. It is used to improve the overall composition of the soil. Peat mixtures help provide mineral balance earth mixture. This land is obtained from peat, which has passed a period of decomposition not less than a year. In floriculture, high-moor or dark transitional peat is used, which has an acidity of pH 3.5-5.5. If there is peat in the mix, you should see dark or reddish fibrous pieces. This soil is very good for seedlings, young flowers, especially all aroid ones. Philodendrons and ferns can generally live in pure peaty soil. But in order for the soil to pass water well and there is no stagnation, it is better to mix peat with other types of soil.

coniferous land

This is another kind of light acidic earth that is so loved. flowering plants(for example, azaleas or anthuriums). It is a layer of underlay coniferous forests(usually pine). Coniferous land is not taken from the very top, there are many needles that have not yet rotted. The bottom layer is used. This is a loose earth with an acidic pH of 4-5.

Manure or compost

It is a very nutrient dense earth, but very aggressive in pure form. After adding pure humus to the soil, the thin roots of the plant can, as they say, burn. So humus must be mixed with other types of soil. Compost is obtained after decomposition (within 2-3 years) of spent greenhouse manure. Its pH is 8.

Sand

An important component of many soil mixtures is sand. Although they say that nothing grows on sand, you can’t do without it in home floriculture. For flowers, you need to use only clean river sand. In addition, it must be well washed and ignited in order to disinfect.

Bark

Most often in floriculture, pine bark is used. It can be collected right in the forest. To disinfect and soften, the bark must be boiled for 30 minutes in water. After that, it can be cut. The bark gives the soil mixture lightness and good water permeability. It provides an acid reaction of the mixture pH 4-4.5. The bark is used to loosen the soil. This is especially required for ferns, aroids and other plants. But this component is especially important for growing orchids.

Moss (sphagnum)

This is the main component of the land mixture for epiphytic plants. Moss gives the soil hygroscopicity, friability, lightness. For use in floriculture, it is dried and finely ground. It gives an acid reaction of pH 4. They also cover the aerial roots on the trunks of plants with moss so that they do not dry out. And dug branches are well covered with moss.

coconut fiber

Now in floriculture, coconut fiber is used in crushed form. This is a substitute for peat. It well passes air into the soil. Therefore, fiber is added to the mixture for ferns and orchids.

fern roots

Fern roots are also used in substrates for orchids. They can be 30% total volume mixtures.

Perlite

This is silica, which looks like light white or gray granules. They are small in size, so perlite is sometimes even used instead of sand.

It is a mineral that has good water absorption properties. Moreover, it not only absorbs water well, but also gives it well. So in dry times, it maintains soil moisture.

These are lumps of baked clay with a porous structure. Expanded clay is used for drainage, it weakly retains water, and does not allow it to stagnate.

Zeolite granules

Zeolite is a crystalline mineral. It is used in floriculture as an adsorbent. It retains water and prevents soil from sticking together.

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Although, as already mentioned, the basis of plant nutrition is carbon dioxide, water and light, some of the substances necessary for the normal existence of plants are obtained from the soil. This is her first and main role. However, the soil is not only a source of nutrition, but also a home for indoor plants.

A significant part of a houseplant - the root - is entirely underground. It is he who sucks out the substances necessary for the plant from the soil, but can only do this in conditions that are comfortable for him (for different plants they are somewhat different): at a certain humidity, acidity, and even mechanical composition.

In order for the soil to fulfill its first and main function, it is important that it does not become exhausted. Therefore, plants from time to time have to be transplanted or compensate for the lack of nutrients with the help of fertilizers. Which is easier for you: feed the plants every 7-10 days or transplant once a year or two? Probably the second.

In addition, already for both roles of the soil, it is necessary that it has a normal structure and acidity. This is also important for the plant to be able to absorb the necessary chemical elements from it without difficulty, and simply to ensure the habitual habitat for the plant.

Structural soil, that is, soil with pronounced lumps, is better for plants, since it is able to protect deep layers from drying out, and dry lumps on the surface (unlike structureless soil) do not form a dense, fused crust that compresses plants and prevents seedlings from germinating. If a crust has formed, it must be destroyed.

Most houseplants need neutral ground mixes, but not all.

Acidic and slightly acidic soils prefer:

As well as almost all cacti (pH 4.5 to 6.0).

* - with the exception of platicerium cultivated on the bark.

A slightly alkaline reaction is desirable (pH about 7.0):

Gardenia - Ophiopogon

Calceolaria - Chlorophytum (pH up to 7.5)

Equal-leaved bell "groom" and "bride"

Don't be intimidated by this "complex chemistry"! You need to know these lists in order to choose the most suitable soil when buying it. The acidity of the soil must be indicated on the label.

Buy ready-made earth mixes desirable for several reasons. Firstly, experts compiled them specifically for indoor plants, which are more pampered and finicky than open ground plants. Chemical composition the soil taken in the garden or in the forest does not match the one that your flowers need, and the microflora traditional for the area (i.e. soil microorganisms) can be detrimental to them due to the lack of immunity.

Soil taken from a city garden can be extremely contaminated with heavy metals and other toxic substances detrimental to plants. The soil from the field may be saline. Forest soil, as a rule, has an increased acidity. Soil from an unfamiliar garden plot may be infected with fungus or viruses. In other words, by purchasing a ready-made soil mixture, you will get rid of unnecessary risk and a lot of problems. Ease of use, sterility, the presence of an additional supply of minerals, saving time - all this is worth the modest money that you spend on it.

If you decide to buy a ready-made mixture, you will only have to monitor the humidity and change in its quality:

Under the influence of watering, it can become salty (then it will have to be changed earlier);

It can stray into a dense crust (it needs to be loosened);

Either way, it will wear off over time. However, for several months after transplantation, it will be possible to safely forget about top dressing and fertilizers, even for those plants that love them very much.

Gfinalhemlesi for indoor plants.

On sale you can find the so-called "single garden mixture", special "universal earth mixtures" for different groups of plants, peat-mineral mixtures (they are best used for rooting cuttings and growing seedlings), artificial substrates. In the store, you can get advice from sellers, which mixture is suitable for what, in extreme cases, the packaging will indicate the main properties, such as acidity and approximate composition. AT recent times the instructions are increasingly listing the plants for which this soil mixture is intended.

Sometimes the earth mixture is also composed for narrower groups of plants, for example; mixtures "Palm" or "Begonia". They can differ in both acidity and mechanical structure, the degree of "lightness", friability, as well as the presence of special additives such as pine bark, charcoal or bone meal. Some of the listed soil mixtures are very close in composition, but are produced by different manufacturers.

Specialized mixes are better than general mixes because they better take into account the individual requirements of plants to the soil. However, some plants are completely undemanding to the soil, any "universal" earth mixture will suit them - this feature will be noted in the individual characteristics of the plants.

As a rule, earth mixtures are sold in packages packaged in 2 kg, somewhat less often - in 5 kg. Almost all are additionally fortified with nutrients.

Here is a list of the most common soil mixtures on sale:

• Soil "Vermion" - universal
• Soil "Flower" - universal for decorative flowering species
• Primer "Exotica" - universal
• Soil "Cypress" - for coniferous plants
• Soil "Citrus" - for citrus fruits
• Soil "For Azaleas" - also suitable for growing camellias
• Soil "For begonia" - also suitable for peperomia, gloxinia, tradescantia and some others
• Soil "Begonia" - similar to the previous one
• Soil "For dracaena and yucca" - also suitable for agave, cordilina, palm trees, hibiscus
• Soil "Yukka" - similar to the previous one
• Soil "Palma" - for palm trees different types(available in different packaging - 2 and 5 kg)
• Soil "For palm trees" - also suitable for dracaena, yucca, cordilina, hibiscus, etc., different packaging
• Soil "For a rose" - also suitable for hibiscus, forcing carnations and chrysanthemums
• Soil "For violets" - also suitable for all plants of the Gesneriaceae family
• Soil "For gloxinia" - also suitable for begonias
• Soil "For araucaria" - also suitable for all conifers
• Soil "For gardenia" - also suitable for all plants of the madder family
• Soil "For dieffenbachia" - also suitable for any aroid
• Primer "For Jasmine" - also suitable for passionflower and many acanthus and kutra
• Soil "For arrowroot" - also suitable for stromantha, calathea, ferns
• Soil "Fern" - for ferns (except platicerium cultivated on the bark)
• Soil "For peperomia" - also suitable for other plants of the pepper family
• Soil "For spathiphyllum" - suitable for all aroid
• Soil "For tradescantia" - also suitable for dichorizandra, collisions and other commeline
• Primer "For orchids and bromeliads" - specialized
• Primer "Orchid" - specialized
• Soil "For mulberries" - any ficuses
• Primer "For cyclamen" - also suitable for any primroses.

Some of the earth mixtures listed here are very similar in composition, but are produced by different manufacturers.

! The range of soils is constantly changing and may not match in different regions, in which case the instructions on the package will come to your aid.

Transplanting houseplants.

A plant transplant is required when:

• The soil has been depleted and you don't want to mess around with fertilizer. By the way, even if you still regularly feed the plant, sooner or later the soil will be depleted, and you still have to replace it. AT open field this phenomenon is fought using the principle of crop rotation - the periodic replacement of vegetation in a particular area. Under room conditions, soil degradation occurs faster, since its volume in a pot is small, and the possibilities for self-healing are extremely limited. Therefore, houseplants should be repotted from time to time, even if external signs there is no such need. Even tub plants (which are transplanted much less often than others) are undesirable to be left in the same soil for more than three years. In such cases, only the soil changes, the capacity can remain the same. But if you are dealing with a species for which a transplant as such is undesirable due to the fragility of its roots and needs to be transshipped (what this means, you will read below), then the volume of the container must be increased. The fact that it is time to replant the plant is often signaled by the cessation of its growth, which did not occur during the dormant period.
• The capacity has become small. All flowers grow, and sooner or later the container in which they were kept becomes too tight for them in the literal physical sense. Only a few species (like aspidistra) feel good in cramped conditions. When the roots do not have enough space, they cannot pull nutrients from the soil at full strength, and the soil is depleted more quickly. From excessive tightness, the roots intertwine the soil so that the earthen ball becomes too dense and the water will go around it without wetting the middle - there will be a problem of lack of moisture. In addition, the roots need to breathe, and air cannot freely enter the overly compacted soil. The fact that it is time to transplant a plant is sometimes seen by its very size in comparison with the pot: the latter can simply be lost against the background of green mass. Well, if the roots from tightness began to crawl out to the surface or into the hole at the bottom of the pot, you can’t delay the transplant! If the reason for the transplant is the immediate tightness of the pot or other container, transplanting and transshipment are equal, but the container must be changed.
• Sometimes there is a need for an emergency transplant, for example , if the earth is rotten(this will be signaled by the sour smell emanating from it and the painful appearance of the plant) or salted from long-term use of hard water (in this case, white crystals form on the surface of the soil, and in ceramic pots salt effusions can appear through their walls). Transshipment is excluded even for plants that do not tolerate transplantation - of the two risks, it is worth choosing the smaller one.
• If a the plant has been ill with any infectious disease, its pathogens can remain in the soil and lead to re-infection as given flower, and those nearby. Transshipment is undesirable, but possible - soil that cannot be replaced should be additionally treated with appropriate preparations (depending on the disease). A transplant should be done when the flower has already recovered from the disease (during its transplant, it can be additional stress).
• If a a freshly bought flower grows in peat, which happens in the vast majority of cases. Peat allows young plant it is better to take root, but does not satisfy the needs of an adult flower. Such a plant can be transshipped, having only partially cleared the soil, so that its share becomes relatively small - then peat will play the role of fertilizer.

Do not repot plants during budding and flowering periods. (unless the transplant is urgent): they may drop buds or flowers.

It is undesirable to transplant weakened plants if their condition is not caused by the condition of the soil.

It is better to refrain from transplanting under bad (stressful for the plant) weather conditions: with strong heat in the summer, with autumn or spring frosts (if the heating does not work).

Transplantation is of two types: actually transfer, in which the roots of the plant are completely cleared of the earth, and transshipment, when the plant is moved to a new container along with an earthy clod. Plants with delicate and brittle roots that are easy to damage are usually transshipped.

Before transplanting, you should prepare a flower container in advance, i.e. a pot or tub.

With a "planned" transplant (that is, caused by plant growth), each new pot for small plants should be wider in diameter by 2-3 cm, and for large ones - up to 7 cm. Right size It is easy to pick up a ceramic pot by placing a plant in an old pot in it. The old pot should fit easily into the new one, and the gap between the edges should be about half a centimeter. AT too much big pot the plant will quickly increase its green mass to the detriment of flowering, which is undesirable for ornamental flowering species, and fungi that can cause disease easily start in soil that is not used by roots. In addition, purely aesthetically, a plant that is too small in a large pot does not look very attractive. AT too small pot the plant will grow more slowly, as it quickly uses up the supply of nutrients, and will soon begin to wither.

Try to choose the right ratio of height and width of the container: species with short roots feel better in squat ones, species with a developed root system - in tall pots.

in container necessarily there should be holes. In no case should a plant be planted in a pot without a hole: the moisture in it will stagnate, the earth will turn sour, the roots will rot from the moisture accumulated below (in the natural environment, excess moisture seeps into the lower horizons). For the same purpose, it is desirable (and for some species it is mandatory) to lay a layer of drainage in the pot.

For drainage different materials can be used: fragments of ceramics, broken brick(fragments should be small, but not so small as to clog holes in the bottom of the pot), crushed stone, large pebbles, crumbled foam (the latter is quite good for heat-loving plants, as an additional thermal insulating layer). However, it is best to use special drainage, which is sold both separately and sometimes complete with ready-made soil mixtures: expanded clay or expanded vermiculite is offered as it, that is, substances that are also ameliorants (soil improvers). It is especially desirable to use them as drainage if your apartment is located near busy highways: expanded clay and vermiculite absorb heavy metals from the soil that enter it with gases.

The material from which the container is made is less important, but ceramic pots are still preferable, since their walls allow air and moisture to pass through. Plastic or metal containers do not have this ability, but they are stronger, easier to clean and often have a more attractive color. Glazed ceramic containers combine the positive aspects of both types, but are often more expensive.

Do not forget that pots, like the flowers themselves, can be a great decoration for a room. They can be selected (as well as painted or decorated) to match the furniture or walls, or, on the contrary, they can be turned into special color spots: the main thing is that they still harmonize with the rest of the interior. For aesthetic reasons, you can also use planters. Here everything is decided by your taste.

After the container is prepared and a layer of drainage is poured into it, proceed with the transplant.

It's done like this:

• Water the flower you are about to transplant well.
• Turn the container over, holding the plant by the stem, lightly hit its bottom with your hand (large pots can be hit with the side walls on the edge of the table) and remove the earthen clod.
• Carefully collapse or wash off the ground.
• If a continuous “fur coat” of small roots has formed near the walls, it must also be removed, having previously been cut in several places.
• Take a close look at the roots. Cut off the rotten ones (pathogenic bacteria or fungi can accumulate on them). It is advisable to sprinkle slices on large roots with crushed coal.
• If you decide to combine transplanting with propagation, for species that reproduce by dividing the bush or rhizomes, cut the plant sharp knife or a razor. For divisions (as they are called daughter plants obtained as a result of division) you need to prepare the appropriate number of containers. Some species can be separated simply by hand.
• Pour in not a large number of earth mixture into a pot and tamp it on top of the soil and the bottom of the walls.
• Carefully straighten the roots, place the plant so that they are in the middle of the container, and proceed to fill the pot with the remaining earth mixture, gradually pouring the soil in small portions from different sides so that it bends the roots as little as possible. Near the edges of the pot, the soil can be squeezed with your fingers, between the roots - direct its flow with a peg. Do not let the roots curl up.
• When the soil mixture is completely filled up (from the surface of the soil to the upper edge of the pot there should be a distance of 1 to 4 cm, depending on the size of the container), it must be compacted by pressing hard enough from above, but carefully so as not to damage the plant. Be careful not to cover the root neck.
• Water the plant if it is not a succulent. Transfer completed!

Cacti and other succulents should not be watered either immediately or for some time after transplantation.

Do not be alarmed if the flower suddenly lost one or two bottom sheet. For newly transplanted plants, this is natural.

During transshipment, the plant taken out of the former “house” is simply lowered into a prepared pot with drainage and a layer of compressed soil, after which the remaining space is filled with earth mixture and the flower is watered.

Partial replacement of soil for indoor plants.

Some houseplants difficult and sometimes impossible transplant or transship. It is not easy to extract a whole tree or a one and a half meter high prickly pear from a tub, and in offices large specimens are often grown in stationary concrete containers.

In these cases the transplant is replaced by a partial replacement of the soil. To do this, earth is raked along the edges of the tub or container. It is better to do this with your hands, carefully beforehand, without touching the roots, loosening upper layer fork (or other handy tool). In this way, about a quarter of the total amount of land can be removed and replaced with new.

Since not all soil is renewed, it is advisable to do this a couple of times a year - in spring and autumn, and compensate for the lack of nutrients in depleted soil with the obligatory so-called basic fertilizer, in which the supply of nutrients is mixed with the soil. Of course, the less land that is replaced, the greater the fertilizer concentration should be.

Excellent( 0 ) Badly( 1 )

Ideal for soils high level acidity. Neutral soils are good for growing, while rocky and sandy soils are suitable. A special soil mixture is necessary for the noble ones. It consists of charcoal, moss, tree bark and fern roots.

Each type of soil has its own basis. For example, neutral soils include black earth, to acidic - peat, and to alkaline - clay-turf. The permeability of water and air to the roots of plants, and hence their development, and life in general, depends on the composition and density of the soil. With timely provision and saturation of the soil necessary fertilizers It also provides plants with quality nutrition.

The composition of soil mixtures may include natural components (for example, peat, sand, ash, humus, sawdust, needles, leaves, moss, etc.) and artificial (for example, expanded clay, perlite, hydrogel). For each type of plant, it is necessary to select its optimal soil composition.

Trading networks offer a large number various kinds soil mixtures, which differ in the level of acidity, the presence of fertilizers and various baking powder.

Peat soils

Peat soils can be of two types: some consist of high-moor peat, while others consist of lowland peat.

Moss that grows in the upper reaches of the swamps, in the process of decomposition, turns into high-moor peat. This type of peat soil has its positive and negative properties. Positive are good breathability and lightness, as well as the ability to absorb moisture and retain it. The latter property is also a disadvantage, since prolonged retention of moisture in the soil can lead to rotting of the root of the plant. And if such a soil is too dry, then it will be quite difficult to wet and moisten it again. Another disadvantage is the low fertile qualities and the minimum amount of minerals in the composition of the soil.

Peat, which is extracted from the swampy lowlands of lakes, rivers and the swamps themselves, is heavier, but the content of mineral elements in it is very high. This type of soil is used only as an additive in soil mixtures, since in its pure form it is always too wet and dense. In such soil, the roots of plants do not develop, but rot due to an excess of moisture and a lack of air.

Biohumus

Biohumus is a product obtained in the process of processing manure with the help of earthworms. Such soil is considered valuable for plants, because it contains a large number of effective microorganisms and useful natural substances. When compiling a soil mixture at home, a small part of biohumus can replace humus and enrich its composition.

Trading networks offer soil mixtures in a large assortment. For almost every plant, you can choose an individual substrate, but you can make it yourself. The main thing is to have all the necessary components at hand.

leaf ground

When growing indoor plants, a mixture of leafy and soddy soil is used as the main soil. It contains the rotted leaf part of many tree species (for example, apple and walnut, linden and maple, pear and elm).

sod land

This type of soil is used most often, as it has good water and air permeability, and also contains a huge amount of nutrients. You can find such soil in meadows, forests, or unused pastures for animals.

Humus

Such soil consists of a small amount of topsoil and rotted manure. This earth is light and friable, and also contains a large amount of nutrients. Many cultures are able to qualitatively develop and grow on humus soil.

heather soil

Such soil is considered rare, since it can only be obtained in places where coniferous trees and evergreen heather shrubs grow. Dark gray moorland mixed with white sand has a loose structure, good air and water permeability. In terms of composition, it can be compared with a mixture of sand (one part), leafy (two parts) and peat (four parts) soil. Heather soil is the most favorable for growing rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias.

coniferous soil

This soil is often included in soil mixtures and is intended for many plants (for example, heather and orchids). Such soil is mined in coniferous forests. The needles of spruce, pine and fir, when decomposed, turn into loose and acidic soil. When collecting coniferous land, it is necessary to remove the top layer - it is still unsuitable for compiling soil mixtures and growing plants. You only need to use the second bottom layer.

fern roots

Crushed and dried fern roots are a valuable nutrient component in the preparation of soil mixtures.

Moss

Some of the old parts of the sphagnum marsh plant die off, fall off, and eventually form high-moor peat. Harvesting of sphagnum is carried out in September - October. First, it is cleared of large branches and other unnecessary components. Then crushed, thoroughly dried and steamed. Such preparation is necessary for the disinfection of the soil. Harmful insects perish, which means that there will be no danger to the growth and development of plants in the future. After the preventive measures taken, the moss is ready for use.

Moss is part of many potting mixes and makes them loose and able to retain the required moisture for a while.

river sand

Flower shops offer various types of sand (coarse, medium and fine), but you can also collect it on the river bank. Sand must be prepared before use. First, it is desirable to sift it, get rid of various debris and large stones and clean it well from dirt with clean water.

Almost all soil mixtures contain sand, as it makes the soil breathable, prevents it from compacting and caking, and perfectly passes water, although it does not contain any nutrients.

Soil mixtures with such a sand additive are necessary for growing almost all types of palm trees and cacti.

Charcoal or Ash

Coal and ash are used to disinfect the roots of plants, as well as to heal cuts on branches and stems. This component prevents the formation of rot, as it is a natural antiseptic. The most commonly used charcoal is left after burning aspen or birch branches.

In almost every soil mixture at least 5% crushed charcoal is present. Coal increases the water permeability of the soil and its friability. Charcoal blends are essential for growing cacti, orchids and many other indoor plants.

When harvesting components for the soil mixture, you have to collect the earth in different places: in the forest, in the meadow, in the field and on the river bank. Naturally, in the composition of such land there is a large number of various insects and their larvae, fungal spores, which can cause fungal diseases. In order to avoid problems in the future when growing plants, it is necessary to prepare such soil before use. It is recommended to carry out mandatory heat treatment in the form of steaming.

Choose a large container, pour a small layer of well-moistened sand (about 3-4 centimeters) on the bottom, and all the components of the future soil mixture on top. Place the container on a small fire for heating and steaming. Wet sand, when heated, will release steam, which will gradually warm the rest of the mixture. It will take about one hour to warm up a ten-liter container.

There is one significant drawback in such processing - this is the absolute death of beneficial microorganisms that are vital for the growth and development of plants. Not a single organic top dressing is able to be absorbed by plants without them. It will take some time and patience to fix this problem. When after landing indoor flower it will take at least 30 days, you can start settling the soil with new useful "residents".

Saturation of the soil with important microorganisms should be carried out gradually and try to maintain their number. Live microorganisms are contained in many special preparations and organic supplements. Specialized stores for gardeners and florists offer to use the Ecostyle, Baikal, Vostok EM-1 and Vozrozhdenie tools for these purposes.

As a soil disinfecting procedure, you can try freezing or processing chemicals. Chemicals destroy all harmful bacteria and fungal spores and get rid of infectious diseases. And after freezing the soil, its structure even improves.

Soil acidity

The degree of soil acidity plays an important role in the development of plants. Growth, abundance of flowering culture, its adaptability to life and the ability to resist pests and diseases depend on its level.

For some representatives of the flora, the soil needs poor and acidic soil, for others it is fertile and saturated with a large number of effective microorganisms, with moderate or neutral acidity. For example, alkaline soil is necessary for plants growing on rocky mountain slopes, and slightly acidic soil is suitable for most plants.

Soil pH can be determined in two ways:

• Using special litmus paper
• With a soil meter

When buying ready-made substrates, acidity is determined by the digital indicators on the package:

• pH over 8 - strongly alkaline
• pH 7 to 8 - alkaline
• pH 6 to 7 - neutral
• pH 5 to 6 - slightly acidic
• pH 4 to 5 - acidic
• pH 3 to 4 - strongly acidic

A soil acidity meter will show more accurate data on the selected substrate, and litmus paper will show the result using a color indicator. A special color scale is offered. It is necessary to place a litmus paper on the surface of a well-moistened soil and press hard for a few seconds, and then compare the result with the proposed scale. In the presence of slightly alkaline soil, the piece of paper will be painted in Blue colour, with neutral - in light green or blue, with slightly acidic - in yellow, with acidic - in pink, with strongly acidic - in red.

How to prepare the right substrate for plants

At first glance, the abundance of various earthen mixtures for indoor plants that the trade offers makes it almost unnecessary to independently compile them. Indeed, it is much easier to pay a not so big amount and save yourself the hassle of finding the necessary components, their preparation, disinfection, mixing. But experienced flower growers are unlikely to agree with this approach. They stubbornly continue to search, and disinfect, and mix on their own.

And it's not about petty savings. Having thoroughly studied the needs of a particular plant, and knowing the characteristics of each of the components of the soil, experienced florist is not satisfied with the versatility of ready-made mixtures, it makes up exactly the soil that is required for this particular type of plant. I will say more, many venerable flower growers make up an earthen mixture even for a particular plant individually, based on its type, size, age, and conditions of detention. This is not yet possible for a beginner florist, he is only mastering the basics of floriculture. But knowing the characteristics of the soil components for indoor plants, these are the very basics, the knowledge of which will help, at least at first, from the abundance of ready-made mixtures, to choose the most suitable one.

When choosing ready-made soil for indoor plants or preparing it yourself, the plant's preference for soil acidity (pH) is primarily taken into account. The vast majority of plants, both indoor and outdoor, grow on earth with a neutral acid reaction. But there are many such plants that have special requirements for acidity.

Biohumus

This is the same humus, but a special type of humus worm is used for its production. Biohumus is considered the most fertile soil additive for indoor plants. An earthen mixture containing biohumus can even make soil based on peat highly fertile.

Compost land

This earth is prepared, as well as humus, in compost pits or heaps. But instead of manure, various organic wastes are used: cleaning, fallen leaves, grass, etc. In terms of fertility, compost soil is somewhat inferior to humus soil, but surpasses soddy and leafy soil. It is rarely used in indoor floriculture, but it is widely used when planting fruit trees,. Used as .

coniferous land

As the name implies, it is prepared under coniferous trees. Coniferous land belongs to acidic soils and is mainly used for growing (Uzambar violet), (as a replacement for heather land), begonias. For these plants, it often goes as the main component of the mixture.

Advice. If you plan to harvest coniferous soil yourself, then you should not take it from the top layer of soil, which contains mainly needles and sand, but from the second, cleaner layer.

Sand

This is one of the most important components of any land for. It is clear that the sand does not contain any nutrients, but it is impossible to do without it. It is sand that does not allow the earth to cake, provides penetration of air and moisture to the roots of the plant. But not all sand is suitable for use. The most accessible, building sand, in addition to the unnecessary impurities they contain, in particular iron compounds, is usually too fine, which leads to the opposite effect - compaction of the earth. The most suitable for our purposes is coarse-grained river sand. He has already passed a natural, natural cleaning, therefore, does not require special preparation.

Advice. If there is no way to get good sand then it is better to replace it. It's a little more expensive, but worth it. Also, sand and perlite combine very well.

Charcoal, ash

It is also a necessary component for the preparation of many earthen mixtures for indoor plants. Wood ash, coal, ashes contain necessary for plants potassium. But this component is not only useful for this. First of all, wood ash an excellent antiseptic that prevents the development of various kinds of rot. It also serves to lighten the soil.

These are only the main components of the earthen mixture for indoor plants. Quite often, coconut fiber is added to the ground, etc. For some plants, traditional soils are not at all suitable, for example, in which the base of the soil is. For many, brick chips serve as an important additive. Growing indoor plants using wick irrigation (), not to mention growing in or on, has its own characteristics.

There are a lot of recipes for preparing land for indoor plants. In the description of each plant, as a rule, recommendations are also given for self-preparation of the land, including soil for, seed germination,. For beginner growers, I advise you to strictly adhere to the recipe at first, and over time, after observing your plant, having studied its needs, you will be able to make your own, author's mixtures.

Happy growing!

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We usually use purchased mixes for flowers, which already have all the necessary components. However, finding the perfect balance of moisture capacity and breathability is quite difficult, even in ready-made substrates. Therefore, it is best to make your own recipe! How to make earth mix at home? Our article will help you choose the components, calculate the proportions and prepare a nutrient soil for flowers.

Ground mix base

Soil is the environment in which the plant lives natural conditions. Its composition and properties may change over time, depending on many factors. Therefore, some areas are empty, while horticultural crops actively grow and bear fruit on others. At home, we ourselves can compose the mixture of components we need, in which this or that plant will be comfortable. What is important to take into account?

The soil of indoor plants, like the land in the garden, has certain physical properties, the main of which are: breathability, moisture capacity and density. They are determined by the mineralogical composition and content of organic substances. You can adjust these parameters yourself! Transplantation and propagation of indoor flowers: tips and rules.

Three components are taken as the basis of the earth mixture for most indoor plants: earth, peat and sand. Peat performs the function of maintaining a given level of acidity, and sand allows you to loosen the soil for flowers, reducing its density. Read more at the link below. You can use additional components. So vermiculite and agroperlite normalize soil aeration, dolomite flour lowers the acidity of the soil, the bark of trees acts as a baking powder and protects against overheating, sapropel and biohumus saturate the mixture with microelements.

This information will be useful to you:
All components of ready-made substrates for indoor plants are described in this article. Types of peat, sand, agroperlite, vermiculite, biohumus, sapropel, bark, sphagnum, expanded clay, dolomite flour, charcoal, humic acids - how they affect soil properties and in what cases they are used.

What about the third component, the earth? Where can I get it and is it suitable garden soil for flowers?

It is used exclusively as a component, but not in its pure form! After all, no one can vouch for the properties and composition of the soil on the site. It is impossible to use land treated with herbicides containing "live" manure mixed with lime in indoor floriculture. It is desirable that nothing grows at this place for at least a year in order to avoid the presence of residues of pesticides and fertilizers. Clay heavy soils are not recommended, unless in minimal proportions. The harvested land must be cleaned of weeds and be sure to check for the absence of insects. To minimize the risks, you can sterilize it, how to do it, read on.

leaf ground

This is the soil obtained as a result of the decay of fallen leaves and tree species. Leaves are harvested in garden conditions, collecting in heaps up to one and a half meters and shoveling during the season. The heap is covered for the winter, and after two years, an earthy mixture saturated with organic matter is obtained. If you don't have a dacha, or time to "prepare" leaf humus, go to the forest. After all, soil rich in organic matter is under every tree. However, it is worth remembering that not all leafy waste is beneficial! For these purposes, hazel, linden, maple, acacia are more suitable, but the foliage of oak and chestnut contains too many tannins that can harm house plants.

sod land

There is such a thing as sod land, what it is? These are rotted sod particles, they are harvested in the spring, collecting earth on pastures. The top layer of turf up to 10 cm thick is removed with a shovel and laid in a shady place with “bricks” on top of each other, grass to grass, shoveled once a summer, and covered for the winter. After a year or two, the turf substrate will be ready for use. By the way, the soil on which perennial fodder crops, clover, legumes and cereals grow is most valued, the soil in such places is enriched with nitrogen.

coniferous land

It has a higher acidity, it is collected in spruce and pine forests. If you collect the top layer of soil along with branches and needles, you can make a coniferous mixture, leaving it to “cure” during the season, sometimes shoveling, and covering it for the winter. The next year, the rotted remains of the needles will be ready for use. Similarly, they do with the earth collected in places where heather grows. Heather land is suitable for growing orchids, ferns, azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons.

Compost

For flowers it is a natural fertilizer. Organics: types and applications. Compost soil is obtained from the decomposition of organic waste. These include cut grass, faded plants, food organic waste (shells, skins, leftover vegetables and fruits), charcoal, clean ash, etc. Many garden plots have a compost pit in which this kind of waste is stored. They are periodically moistened with water and shoveled, closed for the winter, and as a result they receive valuable fertilizer. compost pit from sod bricks.

humus earth

It is the result of the decomposition of manure, usually horse manure. AT fresh manure is rarely used even in garden plots. At home, humus for flowers will be a useful additive, it is used in doses, adding to the finished soil mixture in small quantities.

Light, medium and heavy earth mixes

The soil of indoor plants must meet specific requirements, which is why it is not advisable to plant all flowers in a "universal substrate". Some need a looser mixture, others develop better in nutritious soil. Detailed information for each plant is on our website: find your flower using the search bar (on the side), or the Alphabetical Reference page (it contains not only official, but also popular names of plants).

Below the site flowery-blog.ru gives approximate proportions of heavy, medium and light earth mixtures.

• Light Blend:(peat) -2 (garden soil) -1 (leaf or sod land) -0.5 (sand) -2 (additional components) - agroperlite, vermiculite, charcoal, fine expanded clay.

Light earthy mixtures will be appropriate for desert cacti, succulents with thick leaves (echeveria, aloe, crassula, etc.). It is also advisable to plant young cuttings in light soil, which are still fragile. root system, increasing soil saturation as it grows.

• Medium Blend:(peat) -2 (garden soil) -1.5 (leaf, or sod land) -1 (compost, or humus) -0.5 (sand) -1.5 (additional components) - vermiculite, charcoal.

Medium soil mixes are the most versatile, suitable for growing ornamental leafy species, desert palms, some succulents, and flowering plants. If you are not sure what proportions will suit your plant, make a soil for medium density flowers.

• Heavy mix:(peat) -3 (garden soil) -2 (leaf, or sod land) -1.5 (sand) -1 (compost, or humus) -1 (additional components) - tree bark, pine needles, sphagnum moss, woody coal, biohumus (instead of compost humus).

Heavy earthy mixes are suitable for tropical species of palms, lianas, ferns, azaleas, begonias, fuchsias, as well as tropical forest cacti. Usually large tub plants, plants with a weighty root system, thick roots are planted in denser soil.

* If instead of pure peat you use a ready-made peat mixture, check the presence of microelements in it. Usually, ready-made mixtures already contain fertilizers, so the use of additional dressings (compost, humus, humus) is not required.

Soil disinfection

Do-it-yourself flower soil often requires disinfection. Purchased components do not need to be processed, while soil brought from a garden plot or from a forest may contain microorganisms, bacteria, or small insects. Subsequently, such "uninvited guests" can seriously harm the plant! This is especially true if you have large volumes of soil, because a small handful of earth can be sorted out manually. What is soil disinfection?

It is possible to treat the garden soil for bacteria and fungus with the help of the Fitosporin preparation, which is useful for plants, it destroys pathogenic microflora, and the beneficial microorganisms contained in it create an environment favorable for plants. Similar biological products include "Gamair" and "Alarin".

Attention!
It is not necessary to treat the land brought from the site with insecticides and acaricides; for flowers, such soil will not be the most comfortable environment.

Thermal processing methods include steaming in the oven and freezing on the balcony. If you stand the soil all winter on the balcony, it will freeze and be ready for use in the spring. However, in this case, there is a high risk that weed seeds will remain in it, and some pests may also “overwinter”.

The second method is perhaps more reliable, but it also has its drawbacks. The substrate must be laid out on a baking sheet, moistened with a sprayer and kept in the oven at a minimum temperature of 120 degrees for about an hour, stirring regularly. When heated, all bacteria and microorganisms, both harmful and beneficial, are destroyed, so that the earth loses some of its usefulness.

Now you also know how to prepare nutrient soil for flowers. Make proportions based on the requirements of plants, and they will thank you with growth and flowering.

If you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. ✿ If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Land for indoor flowers needs a special one so that it does not dry out quickly or, conversely, does not turn into a clay lump. This is what we will talk about today in continuation of our topic about home growing plants.

Before heading to the garden center for shopping, it's worth brushing up on your knowledge of home flowers:

1. How to correctly assess the conditions in the room where you plan to put flower pots;
2. How to choose healthy plants;
3. What house flowers are ideal for your conditions.
4. Why you can not transplant a newly acquired plant.
5. Choosing pots for plants.

But back to "our sheep" - what kind of soil for indoor plants is best.
First, I’ll tell you which soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes: soil taken from a flower bed or from a garden. Loose and fertile, in a pot it tends to become stone and is completely unsuitable for the home.

For planting indoor plants you need special composition. You can cook them yourself or buy them ready-made in the store.

It is worth talking about ready-made planting mixtures (substrates), usually used for growing home flowers, in more detail.

Why ready-made soil mixes are not suitable for indoor plants

Ready-made substrates that go on sale under the proud name "Soil Mix" actually have nothing to do with the soil. They consist mainly of red (moor) or black (lowland) peat with the addition mineral fertilizers and other components (coconut fiber, vermiculite, charcoal, etc.), depending on which plants they are intended for.

What the manufacturer usually reports in small print somewhere at the bottom of the package, heading this revelation - "Composition of the mixture."

Have you ever read it?

Most of the failures in growing indoor flowers are due to the use of ready-made (read: peat) substrates.

There is no doubt that it is very convenient to use ready-made planting soils. No need to look for different types of soil, no need to harvest them for future use and store them in the house, occupying the space necessary for life. Compositions based on peat are light, absorb water well. On sale you can find such a hodgepodge for all types of plants. And this would be the solution to the problem for most fans, if not for one but ...

But the peat composition is unstable, it dries quickly. All peat assorted should be kept constantly wet - when dry, they hardly absorb moisture. But most of your green pets require the earth to dry out between waterings. And some of them do not tolerate excess moisture at all.

That is why a flower in such a soil substrate is easy to fill.

In peat formulations, fertilizer reaches the root system much faster than in earthen ones, but it is easily washed out during irrigation. Therefore, a few weeks after transplanting, you will have to feed the plant. Do you know that the dose of fertilizer when feeding is not always easy to determine? At the same time, it is easy to “overfeed” your pet or, conversely, make him “starve”!

Using ready-made peat-based substrates, you create additional difficulties for yourself.

The exception is compositions with the addition of biohumus. Humus (chernozem) is a soil rich in organic matter. Such formulations are less common and usually more expensive than peat-based substrates.

We conclude:

Land for indoor flowers should be prepared with your own hands.

Don't be scared, it's not difficult at all.

A little information about various types soil will help you figure it out.

Characteristics of garden land

It is quite porous and elastic. It can be found in the meadow closest to your home. It is enough to take a good sod (a layer of soil with grass roots, 15-20 cm deep), chop it and sift it with a sieve. Plant residues can be discarded, and what remains will be sod land.

Deciduous (leafy)

This is a light, loose and quite nutritious soil, which is formed from the annual decay of foliage and branches in a grove, in a forest or in a planting. It is easiest to find leafy soil in places with densely growing deciduous trees, in which the foliage is not removed, but remains on the surface and rots. Remove the top layer of freshly fallen leaves and collect the soil that is under it, but no deeper than 10-15 cm, with the remnants of well-rotted last year's foliage.

humus
Obtained from rotted manure. It is light, fluffy and very rich in nutrients. In the village, finding humus soil is quite easy. In the city, you can get it in greenhouses.
In its pure form, sand is used for cuttings.

It is added to all mixtures in an amount of 10-20 percent.

The best is coarse-grained river or lake sand.

We prepare the ground for indoor flowers at home

Recipe one:

Such a mixture is called heavy. This soil composition is suitable for indoor plants with thick coarse roots: dracaena, monstera, large trees.

Recipe two:

This mixture is called medium. It is suitable for plants with roots of medium thickness: aspidistra, large spathiphyllums, anthuriums, small shrubs.

Recipe three:

This mixture is called light. It is suitable for species with fine delicate roots and all herbaceous species.

Recipe Four - universal soil for indoor plants:

Useful in the event that you could not find soddy and humus soil.

In the literature for flower growers there are complex recipes with the addition of various exotic components. For example: coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, brick or marble chips, perlite, etc. It is believed that some types of flowers grow better with such additives.

But the truth is that plants are very flexible and easily adapt to other types of soil mixtures as long as they contain enough nutrients. Therefore, do not complicate your life by looking for rare soil additives. The above recipes will suit almost all your green pets.

So, the sixth secret in growing indoor plants

To avoid difficulties in caring for house plants, the ground for indoor flowers must be prepared with one's own hands according to one of the above recipes.

Before everyone who starts transplanting indoor plants, first of all, the question arises: buy ready ground store or make your own.

Purchased mix is ​​fast. Soils, universal or specially formulated for individual crops, are made from peat with the addition of macro- and microelements. An “average” set of fertilizers, more or less meeting the needs of most crops, is part of universal soils - they are convenient if there are “every creature in pairs” on your windowsill. If the collection is dominated by representatives of one or more species or families, give preference to special soils that are balanced taking into account the characteristics of these plants.

On the one hand, peat soil seems to be the easiest to use: bought, poured, planted - and you don’t need to understand anything. But it is inexperienced growers who should think carefully before making such a choice. Peat is a very moisture-intensive material. When it dries, it loses volume (“shrinks”) and lags behind the walls of the pot.

In addition, dry peat is poorly wetted: water rolls over its surface without being absorbed. Late watering will have no effect until you can soak it properly. Is it worth explaining how plants suffer in this case? Growing plants in such a substrate is the lot of disciplined owners who do everything on time and correctly.

An alternative is the preparation of earthen mixtures with your own hands. Such a land “forgives” some care mistakes, since its characteristics are more reminiscent of natural soils. If you have already experienced failures in growing indoor plants, try to make substrates for them from improvised materials - perhaps this will be better.

Main Components

Sod land. According to all the rules, it takes two years to prepare such land. In spring or early summer, sod is cut in forb meadows and fields, stacked in a pile and layered with manure. Before use, the earth is sieved and stored in closed plastic bags. In recipes for earthen mixtures for indoor plants sod land can be replaced by a well-cultivated garden.

Leaf land. It is formed from semi-decomposed leaves of various tree species (preferably apple, ash, linden). After autumn leaf fall they collect the leaves of trees, with the exception of oak, willow, poplar, chestnut, and compost with the addition of slaked lime.

Peat. For potted plants, you can use factory-packaged peat - it is usually ready for use. Freshly harvested peat, which is brought to the sites by machines, must be stored until it acquires softness, flowability and a uniform structure. Only well decomposed, weathered peat is suitable for substrates.

Humus. You can cook it yourself from fresh manure (horse, cow). It is put in a wooden box or a pile, covered with a dark film and allowed to rot for two years, after which it is sieved. High-quality humus should be loose, homogeneous - without lumps and a characteristic strong odor.

Sand. Well draining and permeable material. Provides air access to plant roots. Required in almost all mixtures. It is recommended to use well-washed river sand.

Conifer bark. Shredded bark of coniferous species (pine, larch). Removed from dead trees, then boiled in water and crushed. Used for growing orchids, ferns, epiphytic plants.

Coniferous land. Lower layer of coniferous forest litter (pine or fir). You can cook it yourself on a garden plot by composting coniferous litter in a separate container or a wooden box, layering it after 15-20 cm with a mixture of peat and sand.

Sphagnum. It has aseptic properties, loosens the soil and retains moisture. Harvested on upland or transitional swamps in early autumn and dried outside the living quarters. You can buy dry sphagnum at garden centers.

Fern roots. In late autumn, they are sheared from the rhizomes of ferns (aspidium, bracken, osmund, polypodium). Used for planting orchids.

Charcoal. Birch or aspen charcoal can be collected in an extinct fire. Grilled charcoal will work too. It is crushed into pieces about a centimeter and mixed in a small amount with soil mixtures. Promotes friability and water permeability of the soil, prevents acidification of the earth.

Additional componentsHorn meal, shavings, horn-hoof meal. Valuable slow acting phosphate fertilizer. Can be found for sale in flower shops and garden centers. It is added to earth mixtures at the rate of 1 part per 30 parts of earth.

Wood ash. Contains a lot of potassium, normalizes the acidity of the soil. Hardwood stove ash (sometimes sold at garden centers) is suitable as a soil additive. Added at the rate of 1 part per 50 parts of land.

The land in which indoor plants grow must fully meet the needs of plants and meet their botanical requirements. Is it so simple, not knowing the tastes of indoor flowers, not adhering to the laws of soil science, to prepare nutritious and suitable soil?

Unfortunately, in our stores, soils are also sold prepared far from non-specialists. By trusting them with our green pets, we risk even more. Therefore, having understood just a few, but quite significant aspects of soil science, we can easily create an excellent soil mix, satisfying indoor green inhabitants.

Indoor plants, according to your preferences, can be divided into three categories:

• Preferring light soils. The basis of such soil is peat with the addition of hardwood, humus and sand. The ratio, as a rule, is made approximate and can be expressed as 3:1:1:1. This mixture is preferred by plants with a shallow root system. Aloe, cyclamens, begonias, gloxinia will feel great in such soils. Such soil is prepared for grafting and sowing seeds;
• earth mixtures moderate are made up of soddy, humus, peat soil and sand in a ratio of 2:2:1:1. Such soils are preferred by most indoor plants;
• Heavy soil mixes prefer plants with a large root system. They include humus, soddy soil and fairly coarse sand. The proportion of such a mixture is expressed as 1: 5: 1. Dracaena, clivia, palm trees will feel great in such a mixture.

Knowing the approximate ratios, you can easily prepare the necessary soil mixture.

The preparation of components for the soil mixture can occur in several ways:

• On one's own. To do this, you need to know exactly where the nearest peatlands are located, have access to leaf ground, humus and coarse sand;
• Compound earthen mixtures can be purchased at specialized stores, and you can prepare soil from them yourself;
• You can buy in the store, what is not so easily available, such as peat, and take all the rest from the fields and gardens.

For residents, both villages and large cities, it is quite accessible:

• sod land. A layer of soil from meadows, pastures and uncultivated lawns;
• leaf ground. The soil of a deciduous forest, or garden, created in the process of many years of decay of foliage;
• Humus. Animal manure that has decayed over several years;
• Compost. Soil obtained by many years of over-ripening of compostable constituents. Plant residues, kitchen waste, animal manure and bird droppings are laid in a compost heap or pit. In terms of nutritional value, compost is equal to humus;
• coniferous land. Soil under a layer of needles in pine forests. It has a slightly acidic reaction and is very suitable for growing azaleas, violets, heather plants;
• Sand. It improves soil aeration and water permeability;

When preparing an earth mixture, it is necessary to achieve an optimal soil structure for plants. To make sure that the preparation is correct, you need to take a handful of soil and squeeze it in your palm, after opening the soil should crumble. If this does not happen, it is unnecessarily heavy. If crumbles very quickly unnecessarily sandy.

There is no need to carry out any disinfection work with the soil. After all, the soil is also a living organism with its inherent microflora. The destruction of microflora will not have the best effect on indoor flowers.

By adhering to these rules, you can prepare an excellent earthen mixture for indoor plants with your own hands. In terms of quality, it will not be inferior to soils prepared by professionals.