Can't understand why the heating radiator does not heat up? Dont be upset. We will help your grief. Just read this article and follow our instructions. We are sure that after that your battery will work as it should.

Heating batteries do not heat up

Why the batteries in the apartment do not heat up - diagnostics and localization of the problem

Batteries (radiators) are mounted in heating systems with forced or natural circulation coolant (in most cases - water), heated by the boiler. Therefore, the only reason for the low temperature of the battery is the cessation of the flow of the heated coolant.

The following defects in the heating system can provoke a violation of the circulation of the coolant:

In a word, if your battery does not heat well - localize the problem, find the cause of the breakdown and proceed to fix it.

Ways to fix the "cold radiator" problem

The presence of an air lock in the battery forces you to act as follows:

• Turns off at first circulation pump . After all overpressure coolant in the system can prevent the elimination of the air pocket in the battery. If the radiator is connected to central heating, this recommendation can be ignored.
• Next, the Mayevsky crane opens mounted in the radiator from the side of the free upper fitting. The tap is opened by simply turning the valve clockwise. And they close, respectively, the turn of the valve in opposite side. If there is no tap, the plug is rolled up at the same end.
• After that, you will hear a characteristic hiss , at the end of which water will flow from the tap or ajar plug. Therefore, before manipulating a tap or a plug under the edge of the battery, you need to substitute some kind of container.
• In the final you close the tap and turn on the circulation pump.

After some time, you should check the results of the work done - touch the battery and evaluate its temperature. If the battery gets warmer, you did everything right. True, it will not warm up quickly, so be patient.

Touch the radiator

Insufficient volume of coolant is restored by supplying water to the open expansion tank or by filling a hydraulic accumulator built into a closed system.

Moreover, the injection of an additional portion of water into a closed system is carried out as follows:

The circulation pump is switched off

• Air is bled from the accumulator. To do this, press the nipple pin.
• AT highest point wiring opens the valve to bleed air.
• A shut-off valve opens on the connecting wiring and water supply line. Water will enter the system directly from the plumbing and will fill the wiring until it flows from the open bleed valve.
• After that, it is necessary to close the air bleed valve and the shut-off unit on the fluid supply line to the system from the water supply.
• In the final, the volume of air in the accumulator is restored, controlling the level of pressure in the system with a pressure gauge.

If after the manipulations your batteries get warmer, you have eliminated the detected defect. However, after a fresh portion of the coolant arrives, the likelihood of air pockets appearing in the body of the radiator itself increases. We discussed how to fix this problem above in the text.

Independent elimination of congestion in pipes is possible only if you have a plumbing category or experience as a plumber. Therefore, it is better to shift the elimination of this problem onto the shoulders of professionals.

After all, to eliminate this problem, you need to disassemble the dangerous area and clean the pipe. After that, all dismantled elements will be put in their original place or replaced with new fittings.

Specialist examination

Similarly, you should proceed in the event of an erroneous, in your opinion, connection of the battery to the wiring. Whether you connected it yourself or entrusted such work to some mountain masters - it doesn’t matter anymore - just show your wiring to another heating system specialist. Perhaps you or the wizards who assembled your system made a mistake. And only another specialist will notice this error.

Radiator malfunction after repair

If your heating radiator does not heat up after repair, then the most probable cause such a defect is either airing the system, or an error when connecting the battery to the wiring.

After all, the replacement or repair of radiators takes place with partial pumping of the coolant from the system. Well, after water is supplied to the wiring, the risk of air pockets in the battery increases by almost an order of magnitude.

Therefore, when adding water to the system after repair, do not forget to open the Mayevsky plugs or taps, controlling the filling of the batteries by the stream of water flowing from the battery through the shut-off and control valves. If the moment is missed, then air jams will have to be dealt with using the methods described above.

Releasing air from the system

Errors connecting the radiator to the system are possible only in case of non-professional installation. Inexperienced" House master» may overestimate their skills and abilities. To eliminate the consequences of such errors, you will have to call an experienced professional to your home who is able to audit the wiring and eliminate the error of the previous "master".

After giving up central heating and the transition to autonomous was noticed one drawback, in one of the rooms with ten sections of the radiator, only 2 normally warmed, all the rest were only slightly warm.

old cast iron batteries I replaced with new aluminum ones. Advantages aluminum radiators in that they are light, heat up quickly, have a beautiful appearance, quick installation, do not need painting. The disadvantages include rapid cooling.

Why doesn't my new one warm up completely? aluminum battery? The first thing that came to my mind was that maybe something got there and does not allow water to circulate in the radiator. But after studying this issue in detail, I found the reason. Everything turned out to be quite simple. The supply and return lines were reversed. That is, the supply was carried out from below, and the return was diverted from above.

The radiator heating scheme was approximately as follows:

What did the grief specialists in installing individual heating think of?

They put an additional faucet on the jumper near the battery. But such a decision did not give practically any result. And the consequences of this can be enormous, up to the failure of the boiler, if someone closes this valve and the battery at the same time.

How did I solve this problem? I took it and swapped the feed and return.

To do this, you need to drain the water from heating system, which is done by unscrewing the bottom plug on the radiator. Unscrew it gently slowly, as there is a pressure of up to 2 atmospheres in the system. Under the bottom you need to substitute some kind of container.

Then in one of the sections heating pipeline I dismantled the pipes and swapped them. Pumped water into the system and did a test run.

I let the air out and drained 200 grams of water to fully guarantee that all the air was gone. And now the radiator began to warm up completely and evenly. And I almost went to the store to buy a new one.

Do you think that the heating battery heats up badly? There is only one reason: hot water does not enter the radiator. There is no unambiguous algorithm for choosing subsequent solutions. Only a qualified specialist will be able to unbiasedly understand the situation and give his suggestions regarding your heating system. However, before the decision is made to call a plumber, a lot can be done by yourself.

Maybe the neighbors are to blame?

It may sound trite, but first make sure that you have hot water at home, whether the tap is open for its supply, or the riser is blocked due to plumbing work in the basement. Do not be too lazy to run through the neighbors from the upper floors. In the event of an unprofessional repair, one of them will have a comfortable temperature of the radiators, but all the residents from the bottom of the riser will not receive heat from the batteries, they will be cold.

You have every right to come in like a neighbor with the question “batteries do not heat: what to do”, at the same time and check the heating temperature with them. If a battery is found that is warmer than yours, then the problem that has arisen may be outlined by just the wrong installation of valves at a neighbor. Your further actions taken will be according to the situation, perhaps shut-off valves, depriving other neighbors of comfort, will be removed without scandal. Or call your housing and communal services structure and restore civil justice with the help of the administration.

Briefly about the heat supply of an apartment building

If you have the courage to figure out why the batteries do not heat well, it would be nice to get acquainted with the basic concepts related to heating a residential apartment building.

Most high-rise buildings use a single-pipe system equipped with U-shaped risers. Let's show the conditional scheme of heat supply of three floors.

Hot water (red in the diagram) rises through one riser and passes, for example, through the bedrooms, to top floor, where, looping, it goes down through other rooms ( Blue colour). Such a scheme has been designed since Soviet times for the use of cast-iron radiators. Hot water enters the lower radiator manifold and, having passed through all sections, leaves the battery through the upper manifold.

Jumpers (bypasses) played a special role. They maintained a common forced circulation along the entire pipeline of the U-shaped riser (in the diagram - for the six radiators shown), being a safety net in case of clogging of radiators with liquid technical dirt that accumulates during many years of operation. When passing the riser, some part of the total displacement supplied from below hot water turned to the radiator on one floor, and the rest passed by unhindered, delivering heat to the apartments next to the riser.

The aluminum heating radiators that have appeared are designed for two-pipe systems with hot water supply through the upper collector and its outlet from the lower collector. They have a completely different design. internal cavity, respectively, another hydraulics. When they began to indiscriminately change obsolete cast iron radiators on modern aluminum, but retaining a single-pipe scheme, then inside the batteries the heat flow from hot water began to weaken due to mismatched directions of convection heat flows from cooling water and pumped external pump hot water.

Worried about the fact that the heating radiator does not heat up, the residents began to go to various technical tricks, not caring at all about the freezing law-abiding neighbors. Such a discrepancy between the types of structures and a decrease in the rate of passage of water through the radiator led to deposits of dirt in the sections. Every year more and more sludge is deposited, and now it no longer heats last battery, finally clogged with sludge. Then this epidemic covers the entire radiator.

The main reasons for cooling radiators

So, everything is fine with the neighbors, the riser in the apartment is hotter than the cooled down battery. So, the problem is local, it's all about the radiator. An excursion into the basics of heat supply convincingly showed that the main reasons why the last battery does not heat up and makes such a longing for the freezing owner will certainly be:

1. Clogged radiator sections. Due to scale, rust, mineral salts and other impurities deposited on the walls of the radiator, the flow area for hot water in the battery is sharply narrowed, the radiator becomes practically impassable for the coolant. Multilayer contamination of the radiator walls has a low heat transfer coefficient, which negatively affects the transfer of heat from the battery to the apartment air.
2. Single pipe heating system. As discussed above, the batteries of this system are doomed to a kind of thermal injustice: distant batteries do not heat.
3. Wrong connection. Only part of the battery heats up, and, for example, the bottom of the battery does not heat up.
4. An air lock formed from the accumulation of air in the upper part of the radiator. It practically paralyzes the circulation of water and leads to corrosion of steel surfaces.
5. Reduced pressure in the system. Respectively, less heat enters the dwelling.

What can be done for a cold battery

Clear blockage in radiator

In this case, washing with water under pressure will help. To remove the radiator without problems during the heating period, a bypass must be installed. But it is better to resort to the services of a plumber, who will clean the radiator tank from sludge with a special chemical composition.

Convert a one-pipe system

Change in the single pipe system nothing is possible. It remains only to mount two-pipe system water heating.

In case of incorrect connection, it is necessary to redo the circuit

In case of a connection error clear sign the uneven heating of the sections and their parts serves, for example, the lower part of the battery does not heat up. The sections closest to the connection point will be warm, the rest will be almost cold. With a side connection for a multi-section radiator, water generally “does not want” to flow around the entire battery, but will pass along the shortest path from the lower pipe to the upper one. Only an experienced plumber can help sort out this confusion.

To correct all connection errors, an injection tube is recommended, which in essence is an extension of the duct. It is inserted into the lead-through nut of the battery, effectively imitates a diagonal pattern and contributes to the fact that the coolant passes more than 70% of the entire working length of the flow section. By increasing the length of the hot water supply, the uneven heating of the battery is corrected, and the heat transfer of the heating system is improved.

In the absence of a normal supply of heat through the riser, it is necessary to “pull out” locksmiths from the housing and communal services structure serving the house. But problems with low temperature coolant should be in all apartments in the riser, above and below yours.

Eliminate airlock

One of the reasons why the battery does not heat up is airlock in the radiator. To eliminate it, it is recommended that a special Mayevsky crane is screwed in instead of the side plug of the radiator. If it becomes necessary to bleed air from a cooled battery, this can be done independently. To do this, insert a screwdriver into the thread on the faucet and slowly turn it counterclockwise. As soon as the sound of air escaping with a hiss is heard, the working rotation of the screwdriver must be stopped.

It is important! In preparation for opening the tap, it is necessary to clear a place near the battery, because a jet can escape with air dirty water capable of messing up everything around. Place a basin below the radiator.

If everything was done according to the instructions, but the battery does not heat up, then the radiator is thoroughly clogged. You can't do without plumbing.

Publications, 16:06 20.10.2011

Heating in the apartment: what is the heating rate and how to make it warmer

Context

Even in new buildings, problems with heating are not uncommon. What can we say about secondary housing, built 30-40 years ago. Where to go and how to behave competently in order to quickly "warm up" the batteries? Let's formulate an algorithm of actions.

How many in degrees

We’ll warn you right away: in order not to download the rights in vain and to no avail, you first need to make sure that the temperature in your home really falls short of established norm. And in Russia, frankly, they are not resorts. Doctors note that most of us are comfortable at 23 - 25 degrees. However, the developers of housing and communal standards, apparently, decided to temper the population, and set the following minimum temperature indicators for apartments in the cold season:

Living room +18 degrees, in the building of the first year of operation +20;

Corner room +20 degrees;

Kitchen +18 degrees;

Bathroom +25 degrees.

In the lobby and stairwell the entrance should be at least +16 degrees, in the elevator +5, in the basement and attics at least +4 degrees.

These indicators are set State standard Russian Federation GOST R 51617-2000 "Housing and communal services. General specifications"(approved by the Decree of the State Standard of the Russian Federation of June 19, 2000 N 158-st).

Control measurement

If it is clearly cooler in your apartment, and the batteries are barely warm, the first thing you need to do is call the control room of the management company (UK) serving the house (DEZ, housing department, private UK). Write down the date, number of your application and the name of the operator who accepted it. According to the rules, on the same day, a caretaker technician or an engineer from the management company should be sent to you. The arriving public utility company conducts official temperature measurements to make sure your claims are justified.

The procedure should look like this: the temperature is measured at inner wall each room, kitchen and bathroom at a distance of one meter from the wall and at a height of 1.5 meters from the floor. Based on the results of the check, an act is drawn up in two copies, one of which is issued to the owner of the apartment.

If the temperature readings are below the GOST minimum, then Management Company is obliged to take measures to normalize the heating in your home. Please note: there are no clear deadlines for this in the legislation, so lawyers advise using the reasonable time rule (it is spelled out in Article 314 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation). Based on this rule, your demand must be fulfilled within 7 days from the date of its presentation. The employees of housing maintenance organizations themselves confirm: if the applicant (the owner of the apartment) behaves competently and persistently, then in practice his problems with heating are usually resolved within 3-5 days.

If public utilities are pulling rubber

How to convince public utilities that you are a competent and persistent consumer? Once you have received the certificate of temperature measurement in your apartment, prepare a claim. In it, indicate that the heating service is provided of poor quality, because established by GOST R 51617-2000 indicators of indoor microclimate (clause 4.16.2). In this regard, you demand the elimination of deficiencies within a reasonable time on the basis of Article 314 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation.

Print out two copies of the claim. Transfer one to DEZ (ZHEU or other management company). On the second, you should put a mark on acceptance. Alternatively, you can send a claim by registered mail with acknowledgment of receipt. In this case, a reasonable period will be counted from the date the utilities receive your letter.

If your management company shows miracles of sluggishness, does not respond to a claim or "dynamite" in any other way, contacting several more instances will help stir it up.

1) The authorities of your locality. In Moscow, this is a district government, in other regions - district administrations, village councils, etc. In such bodies there is always a subdivision (department, committee) in charge of housing and communal services. The author of this material has tested on her own experience the effectiveness of filing a complaint about heating with the council - it worked very quickly.

2) "Hot lines" of energy supply organizations. You can find phone numbers on the Internet or find out at the help desk.

3) State Housing Inspectorate. This body is authorized to control, among other things, the quality utilities, the work of managing organizations and issue mandatory instructions to violators.

Question in the topic: maybe put individual counter heat?

This question is increasingly being asked in recent times tenants who want to save money in the light of the constant rise in the cost of housing and communal services. Basically, housing code RF allows you to do this. However, experts believe that in practice, such a measure is more likely to result in an additional and at the same time stupid burden for the wallet, rather than a real savings tool. The fact is that in most of our houses (except for new buildings of the latest generation) apartments have such a piping layout, in which it is simply impossible to regulate the heat consumption of each particular battery. So, by putting the meter, you can only observe its performance, but most likely it will not be possible to reduce or increase the heating.

Well, why do you have such fun?

Anna Dobryukha

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On this page, we will try to select certain structural components for your home. The heating system includes an expansion tank, pipes, vents, fasteners, a connection system, batteries, boiler manifolds, thermostats, pressure boosting pumps. The garage heating design has some parts. Each node has a role. Based on this, the choice of parts of the system must be done correctly.

Heating battery not heating

Tell me please!

Most high-rise buildings use a single-pipe system equipped with U-shaped risers. Let's show the conditional scheme of heat supply of three floors.

Hot water (red in the diagram) rises through one riser and passes, for example, through the bedrooms to the top floor, where, looping, it goes down through other rooms (blue). Such a scheme has been designed since Soviet times for the use of cast-iron radiators. Hot water enters the lower radiator manifold and, having passed through all sections, leaves the battery through the upper manifold.

Jumpers (bypasses) played a special role. They maintained a common forced circulation throughout the pipeline of the U-shaped riser (in the diagram - for the six radiators shown), being a safety net in case of clogging of the radiators with liquid technical dirt that accumulates during many years of operation. When passing the riser, some part of the total displacement of the hot water supplied from below turned to the radiator on one floor, and the rest passed unhindered, delivering heat to the apartments adjacent to the riser.

The aluminum heating radiators that have appeared are designed for two-pipe systems with hot water supply through the upper collector and its outlet from the lower collector. They have a completely different design of the internal cavity, respectively, different hydraulics. When obsolete cast-iron radiators began to be indiscriminately replaced with modern aluminum ones, but retaining a single-pipe scheme, the heat flow from hot water inside the batteries began to weaken due to mismatched directions of convection heat flows from cooling water and hot water pumped by an external pump.

Worried that the heating battery does not heat up, the tenants began to go to various technical tricks, not caring at all about the freezing law-abiding neighbors. Such a discrepancy between the types of structures and a decrease in the rate of passage of water through the radiator led to deposits of dirt in the sections. Every year more and more sludge is deposited, and now the last battery, completely clogged with sludge, no longer heats. Then this epidemic covers the entire radiator.

The main reasons for cooling radiators

So, everything is fine with the neighbors, the riser in the apartment is hotter than the cooled down battery. So, the problem is local, it's all about the radiator. An excursion into the basics of heat supply convincingly showed that the main reasons why the last battery does not heat up and makes such a longing for the freezing owner will certainly be:

1. Clogged radiator sections. Due to scale, rust, mineral salts and other impurities deposited on the walls of the radiator, the flow area for hot water in the battery is sharply narrowed, the radiator becomes practically impassable for the coolant. Multilayer contamination of the radiator walls has a low heat transfer coefficient, which negatively affects the transfer of heat from the battery to the apartment air.
2. Single pipe heating system. As discussed above, the batteries of this system are doomed to a kind of thermal injustice: distant batteries do not heat.
3. Wrong connection. Only part of the battery heats up, and, for example, the bottom of the battery does not heat up.
4. An air lock formed from the accumulation of air in the upper part of the radiator. It practically paralyzes the circulation of water and leads to corrosion of steel surfaces.
5. Reduced pressure in the system. Accordingly, less heat enters the living space.

What can be done for a cold battery

Clear blockage in radiator

In this case, washing with water under pressure will help. To remove the radiator without problems during the heating period, a bypass must be installed. But it is better to resort to the services of a plumber, who will clean the radiator tank from sludge with a special chemical composition.

Convert a one-pipe system

Nothing can be changed in the single-pipe system itself. It remains only to mount a two-pipe water heating system.

In case of incorrect connection, it is necessary to redo the circuit

It is important! Of the three types of battery connection - bottom, side and diagonal - the most the best option is a diagonal pattern.

In the event of a connection error, a clear sign is the uneven heating of the sections and their parts, for example, the lower part of the battery does not heat up. The sections closest to the connection point will be warm, the rest will be almost cold. With a side connection for a multi-section radiator, water generally “does not want” to flow around the entire battery, but will pass along the shortest path from the lower pipe to the upper one. Only an experienced plumber can help sort out this confusion.

To correct all connection errors, an injection tube is recommended, which in essence is an extension of the duct. It is inserted into the lead-through nut of the battery, effectively imitates a diagonal pattern and contributes to the fact that the coolant passes more than 70% of the entire working length of the flow section. By increasing the length of the hot water supply, the uneven heating of the battery is corrected, and the heat transfer of the heating system is improved.

In the absence of a normal supply of heat through the riser, it is necessary to “pull out” locksmiths from the housing and communal services structure serving the house. But problems with a low coolant temperature should be in all apartments in the riser, above and below yours.

Eliminate airlock

One of the reasons why the battery does not heat up is an air lock in the radiator. To eliminate it, it is recommended that a special Mayevsky crane is screwed in instead of the side plug of the radiator. If it becomes necessary to bleed air from a cooled battery, this can be done independently. To do this, insert a screwdriver into the thread on the faucet and slowly turn it counterclockwise. As soon as the sound of air escaping with a hiss is heard, the working rotation of the screwdriver must be stopped.

It is important! In preparation for opening the tap, it is necessary to clear the place near the battery, because a jet of dirty water can escape with air, which can stain everything around. Place a basin below the radiator.

If everything was done according to the instructions, but the battery does not heat up, then the radiator is thoroughly clogged. You can't do without plumbing.