It is very sad to watch how the apricot dries up.
For a year, or maybe more, the tree pleased with ripe fruits, and then suddenly began to wither before our eyes.
The death of an apricot must not be allowed; early diagnosis will help in the treatment.
An apricot tree whimsical to weather conditions can be grown from a stone or rootstock.
Spring - best time for landing. Trees are planted from the south or southeast side, in places protected from the north winds.
Apricots are plucked when they reach harvest maturity, as the fruits do not ripen once they have been picked from the branch. When harvesting fruits, they move from the periphery to the center, from the bottom up, to avoid accidentally knocking down apricots.
There are several reasons for the drying of apricot trees. These are temperature changes, and accidental damage to the trunk, and fungal diseases, and much more.
Most often, young trees are susceptible to drying. Special attention should be applied to sheets that dry out or change color. A change in color can be the first herald of problems, in turn, early diagnosis will help save trees.
Apricot dries up due to weather conditions.
With sudden changes in temperature, there is a high probability of disease of apricot trees with apoplexy. Oscillation near zero is especially dangerous, because at negative temperatures water freezes, which already begins to circulate in the roots of the tree.
Apoplexy is caused by a metabolic disorder.
Symptoms are leaves and twigs that suddenly wither. The wood dries up on the affected part of the tree. Apoplexy is the cause of the tree's vulnerability to other diseases.
For disembarkation, be sure to select appropriate place: warm with well-drained soil. Covering young trees for the winter is a prerequisite for caring for young apricots.
Treatment of apoplexy: cutting off affected branches. Places of cuts are treated with a solution blue vitriol(1 tsp per 1 liter) and smeared with garden pitch.
AT sunny weather at the end of October, it is necessary to whitewash the trunk and spray the tree with a solution of 2% Bordeaux mixture. Spraying repeat in early spring.
Moniliosis – fungal disease dispersed by wind and insects. An increased likelihood of disease during apricot flowering in cloudy weather is predominantly.
Symptoms of this disease: the flowers turn brown, with the passage of time the leaves begin to fade, young branches dry up, the bark on thick branches cracks.
For the treatment of monoliosis, the affected branches of the fruit are removed, with the cutting sites treated with garden pitch. The tree is sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid.
Verticillosis- a fungal disease that appears from the decomposition of plant fallen leaves, branches and fruits. Infection occurs through damaged roots or the lower part of the trunk.
Symptoms are yellowing and dropping lower leaves crowns. At the same time, the trunk and the upper part of the crown remain outwardly healthy.
Treatment is relevant only in the very initial stages. The tree is sprayed with a 0.2% solution of foundationazole, topsin-M or similar liquids.
Infectious desiccation is a fungal or bacterial disease that affects trees growing in unsuitable conditions, both in terms of soil and temperature differences, leading to a violation of the integrity of the bark. Most often, apricots are susceptible to infectious drying at the age of 3 to 12 years.
Symptoms are flowers and leaves that wither but do not fall off. At the same time, the leaves themselves are smaller than usual, the set apricots are small, almost uncolored and bitter. The bark on the trunk cracks and peels off.
Prevention and treatment - cutting shrunken branches and leaves. You should cover young trees for the winter, do not forget about whitewashing the trunk. Treating trees with Bordeaux liquid in autumn and spring will reduce the chance that the apricot will dry out.
leaf curl- a fungal disease that occurs in fallen leaves, while the spores of the fungus can remain in the cracks of the bark during the winter.
Symptoms - thickening between the nodes and shortening the distance between them. The leaves of the tree change shape, become light green and thicken, covered with a bloom of fungal spores. Affected shoots dry up.
As a treatment and prevention, treatment with copper sulphate 2% for young kidneys is carried out with a repetition after about 3 days.
Most harmful insects for trees, these are the comma-shaped scale insect, the glass case and the fruit striped moth. If nothing is done in time, the consequences can be sad - the apricot dries up.
comma-shaped scab- looks like a small growth in the form of a comma on a tree trunk. If the entire branch is covered with a shield, then it dies off very quickly, and the tree itself gradually loses its strength, since it is depleted by almost imperceptible “commas”.
Prevention - planting only healthy trees. Upon detection of the dominance of scale insects, remove and burn the affected branches.
Glassware- a butterfly, the larvae of which harm normal sap flow due to the fact that in the process of life they make moves under the bark of a tree. Caterpillars are white-yellow with a red tint and head Brown color.
Treatment - maintaining the good condition of the trees, coating the trunk with a mixture of clay and manure, which blocks the flight of butterflies and makes it difficult for the larvae to move.
fruit striped moth – moth half an inch in size. At the beginning of spring, moth larvae eat the cores of young branches, which causes the branches to dry out.
Prevention - timely cutting of damaged shoots.
Treatment - treatment with chlorophos or similar substances for young kidneys.
In the case when the drying of the apricot does not have any symptoms, this may be a sign of premature death of the tree.
There are about 40 various factors, which can affect the premature death of the tree. Before others, problems caused by environmental factors are identified. This opens wide gates for the harmful effects of one or more diseases. If nothing is done, the tree will die in a season.
As a preventive measure and to maintain the well-being of the apricot tree, following methods:
1. Only proven seedlings that are not infected with any fungal diseases or pests should be planted.
2. Avoid injury to the roots and trunk of the tree. Damaged areas should be immediately treated and covered with garden pitch.
3. Shrunken and diseased branches should be cut and burned in a timely manner.
4. In spring and autumn, it is necessary to treat trees with a solution of Bordeaux mixture of a two percent concentration.
5. Timely harvesting of fruits.
If a tree is neglected to such an extent that it has to be cut down, it must be borne in mind that after uprooting such an apricot, only seed trees can be planted in its place, for example: apple, pear, quince. The same rule is used in the opposite direction, after the death of the pome tree, a stone fruit culture is planted in its place.
Timely prevention and care of the tree will help save the tree. And you don’t have to see how the apricot dries up before your eyes.
Common apricot - trees and shrubs of the genus Plum (Prunus Armeniaca) of the Pink family (Rosaceae). The fruit came to Europe from Armenia, where it for a long time called "Armenian apple" or "Armenian plum", from where it gradually began to expand the area of growth.The heat-loving southerner has perfectly taken root and is successfully grown in climatic conditions. middle lane and even on Far East. True, "tests" are carried out mainly in amateur gardens and on summer cottages, and the growing process is quite painstaking. But the result is worth it.
blooming apricot trees look great as tapeworms and in compositions. A group planting of apricot with plum, apple and cherry is especially beautiful during spring flowering.
Apricot trees are almost the first to bloom in spring, with the exception of almonds. During the flowering period apricot orchards shrouded in an amazingly beautiful pink haze of large fragrant flowers. Flowering trees cause both admiration and excitement because early flowering can be ruined by severe spring frosts. How to resist this? How to save tender apricot flowers? This will also be discussed in the article.
Apricot blossoms are one of the signs of the coming spring. Apricot trees bloom even before the leaves bloom. First, swollen pink buds appear on the trees, which then turn into pink or white fragrant flowers with pink veins.
Apricot flowers are solitary, with five petals, large, 25–30 mm in diameter, white or pale pink. Calyx small size, fused, with five dark red recurved sepals. She falls along with the stamens and pistil after fertilization occurs. From 20 to 30 stamens are placed inside the flower in several rows.
Apricot flowers are white with pink streaks or pink
The beauty of flowering apricot trees can last up to 10 days.
Friendly flowering of apricots begins at temperatures above +10C
The awakening of flower buds occurs already when the temperature rises to +5 0 C. If it occurs for a short time, then the buds freeze again. If the temperature is maintained for a long time, flowering begins. Sum effective temperatures exceeding the threshold of +5 0 С, for the beginning of apricot flowering should be equal to 300 0 С.
For the flowering of apricot trees, temperatures above +10 0 C are needed. Ideally, this should be a temperature of +17, +19 0 С in calm weather without strong wind. Such conditions are optimal for the fertilization process, and then the bees are most active. In reality, the temperature spread occurs from +7 to +28 0 С. And as a result of this, the fruit harvest will be unstable.
In the south, flowering occurs already in the first half of April, in other areas a little later. Early flowering is dangerous with consequences, as a threat is likely spring frosts. BUT early development flower buds leads to their death by return frosts.
The table contains information about the approximate timing of flowering of apricots, depending on the region of growth.
Region | Approximate flowering times | Recommended varieties (based on the state register of breeding achievements) |
Armenia | End of March - beginning of April | |
Ukraine | End of March - beginning of April | Red-cheeked Kyiv selection, Kyiv handsome, Kyiv canning, Melitopol early, Sambur early, Monastic, Veteran of Sevastopol |
Krasnodar | First half of April | Sun of Kuban, Parnassus, Kuban black, Red-cheeked, Hardy, Musa, Pleasure, Stavropol eagle |
Crimea | Mid March | Red-cheeked, Pineapple Tsyurupinsky, Nikitsky (a kind of Red-cheeked), Altair, Crimean Cupid, Crocus, Sparkle of Taurida, Dionysus, Divny, Veteran of Sevastopol |
Caucasus | Mid March | Pineapple Tsyurupinsky, Melitopol early, |
middle lane | End of April - beginning of May | Black prince, Lel, Red-cheeked, Hardy, Royal, Triumph of the north, |
Moscow region | Mid May | Iceberg, Alyosha, Countess, Monastic, Lel, Favorite, Royal |
Rostov region | Mid April | Melitopol early, Red-cheeked seedling, Mlievsky radiant, Fortuna |
Voronezh | End of April - beginning of May | Early Voronezh, Compote, Surprise, Fragrant Voronezh, Northern Triumph, Champion of the North |
Problems early flowering apricots are associated with the possibility of the return of spring frosts.
Decreasing the temperature to -1 0 С closed buds can withstand without consequences. During the flowering period, lowering the temperature to -1, -2 0 С can lead to the complete death of the crop.
Spring frosts are detrimental to flowering apricots
Extending the dormant period of an apricot is a real way to increase the regularity of its fruiting. There are quite a few ways to do this. Experts believe that it is best to combine several of them at once:
There is only one way to delay flowering, but not by mulching or compacting snow, that's for sure. It is necessary during the summer sap flow, in our Lower Volga, this is the end of July - the beginning of August, to make a small pruning of the tree. At this time, fruit buds are laid on next year. By cutting out diseased and at the same time dry branches, you transfer this formation ten days later (until the tree gets sick). Accordingly, flowering the next year occurs later.
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From light frosts (up to -1 0 С) the smoke of landings can be saved, because in this way a smoke cover is created around the trees, which does not allow warm air get up and leave. It must be “layed” before the start of frost and kept until sunrise.
From freezing at -2 0 C, flowering apricots will help save watering and spraying:
The most reliable cover is cover with any material: woven or non-woven.
simple roof above the plant holds back 3 degrees of frost, shelter to the ground - up to 5 degrees.
And here's another tip for preserving plantings from frost.
This method of making a smoke bomb - You need ammonium nitrate (ammonium nitrate), which is sold in the fertilizer store, and ordinary newspapers. First you need to prepare a solution of saltpeter, proportion: 1 liter of water and 300g of saltpeter. To put it simply, you need to take a liter plastic bottle fill it up 1/3 ammonium nitrate and completely fill with water, you must wait until the saltpeter is completely dissolved. A foam will appear at the top, which must be carefully drained. After that, you need to insert a spray bottle for flowers into the bottle. Now you need to take the first sheet of newspaper and completely moisten it with a solution from the sprayer (be sure to lay something under the newspapers, all this must be done away from walls, furniture, carpets, etc.) We put the second sheet on top of the soaked first sheet and repeat the procedure. After all the sheets have been soaked with the solution, turn the resulting stack on reverse side. They must dry completely room temperature 3 - 5 hours hanging on a rope. 1 liter of the resulting solution is enough for about 35–40 newspaper sheets. Newspapers should not be left in direct sunlight (!) Let's describe how to make a smoke bomb from these newspaper sheets. Gently bend the newspaper sheet soaked in the solution, then bend it again. We do a similar procedure with all sheets. We take one bent sheet, tightly twist it to the middle, put another one into it and twist it further. When we reach the middle again, we put in another sheet, etc. Everything should be very tight (!) After twisting the last one, rewind the resulting product with adhesive tape and tamp from the ends. The filling of the chimney is ready! Attention! A checker rolled from newspaper sheets may catch fire in the process of emitting smoke (especially if you use it in the wind). To avoid this, it is necessary to make a case. A half-liter aluminum can is ideal for this. It is necessary to cut the lid from the top of it, and then completely cut off the bottom. Insert a twisted flue there (if it dangles, wind it up a little with plain paper) so that it reaches the end. After that, cut off the excess metal so that 1 cm edges remain, carefully bend them. The flue is ready to use! Application - Set it on fire from the side and throw it away, clubs of white smoke will go. Freshly made newspaper smoke bombs burn with fumes a large number smoke, but if they are stored for a very long time, then they may not ignite at all. It is best to keep them for no more than 1 month and store in plastic bags to protect against moisture. Try it - determine the number of checkers and the smoking time.
If spring return frosts If the delicate flowers of apricots do not destroy, then already in the middle of summer it will be possible to feast on its fragrant juicy fruits.
Never cease to amaze and fascinate people with the annual miracle of flowering spring gardens. First of garden trees apricot blossoms. It opens its buds when there is still no real heat and there is a threat of night frosts. The main task of the gardener during this period is to delay flowering or protect the flowering tree from exposure. low temperatures to ensure future harvest.
Listen to the symphony of spring.
Andrey Dementiev
Enter the garden
When it blooms...
Having admired the charm of a blossoming apricot, the gardener will certainly return his thoughts and deeds to his daily worries, because in the spring they are too many. Unless a beginner in this field will consider in detail the structure of an apricot flower on a branch that is still bare without leaves. The white or pinkish apricot flower is quite large, you can see all its elements, enjoying the pleasant aroma.
The apricot flower is quite large, so you can easily see all its elements.
The flower is located on a small cup, consisting of sepals fused at the bottom. Five rounded petals make up a flower corolla, reaching a diameter of 20–30 mm. The male part of the flower has 25–45 stamens arranged in several rows. Each of them consists of a translucent white filament and a yellow anther, on which the pollen develops.
The female part (pistil) is located in the very center of the flower. The white, slightly pubescent stigma is able to hold the pollen that has fallen on it, which then germinates and fertilizes the ovule hidden inside the pistil. As a result of pollination, a tiny ovary should appear, and all other parts of the flower will eventually fall off.
Every spring, flowers cover the branches of the apricot in great numbers to give life to new fruits.
Botanists claim that a flower is just a shortened shoot that is adapted for the propagation of angiosperms.
Southerner-apricot blooms before anyone else, without waiting for stable heat. AT different regions flowering time is different - the further south, the earlier. Everything depends primarily on the weather of the current year, and sometimes even on the microclimate of a particular area: it happens that apricots have already faded in one place, and in another they are just blooming the first timid flowers. In any case, the flowering of apricot trees is a convincing sign of the beginning of spring. However, it is still far from its sovereign dominion; at this time, night frosts and return frosts are still possible.
Apricot blooms very early, when the first leaves are just beginning to bloom on the trees.
Even a short-term cold snap can significantly affect the future harvest. Apricot flowers and ovaries, severely damaged by frost, fall off the tree. Of those that are less affected, deformed fruits that are unfit for consumption often develop.
Scientists have long been interested in the question of how buds, buds, flowers and ovaries tolerate a decrease in temperature. fruit trees. The data obtained turned out to be very interesting:
It has long been noticed among the people that during the flowering period of garden trees, a decrease in temperature, or even frost, necessarily occurs. Most often, apricots get a cold blow, because they bloom the earliest, during the period of the least stable heat.
With more late term flowering reduces the likelihood of frost, thus you can save more ovaries and increase the yield of apricots. How to do it? There are several answers to this question, tested by practice:
Whitewashing the trunk with slaked lime with the addition of manure or clay will delay the flowering of apricots
Ice glaze protects the kidneys from frost
save already blooming trees The following agricultural practices will help against freezing:
In order for an apricot to bloom on the site, you need:
It happens that the gardener did everything for the apricot: he bought an excellent variety for the given area, and chose the right place, and adhered to all the conditions when planting. But the tree has been growing for several years, and does not bloom. The reasons for this situation may be different:
During the flowering period, apricots, as a rule, are not sprayed so that chemicals do not get into the ovaries, and then into the fruits. In addition, such treatment of the tree can harm pollinating insects, which will drastically reduce the yield.
An exception may be the next stage of the fight against moniliosis. If the first phases of treatment were previously carried out, then it is during the flowering period that one more spraying is carried out. But at the same time, Fundazol is used at a concentration of 0.1% (5 g per 5 liters of water), which is the least toxic to bees and other insects that pollinate apricot flowers. After such an event, a two-week protection against monilia will be provided to the tree.
In the process of flowering and fruit formation, apricot consumes a lot of nutrients. Of course, in this situation, the gardener must support the tree by feeding it with the necessary fertilizers. After flowering, continue to make preparations containing nitrogen:
In order for the fruit to be well tied after flowering on the apricot, you need to feed the tree
Dissolved substances are poured into a furrow dug along the perimeter of the tree crown. When the solution is absorbed, you need to pour in the same liter jar of ash or a glass of dolomite flour.
To receive annually good harvest apricots, it is not enough just to irrigate and fertilize. In spring, apricot trees need frost protection. Simple agronomic practices can help protect delicate flowers from the effects of cold. And already in the middle of summer, the apricot will thank the gardener with juicy and sweet fruits.
Fruit trees, including apricots, are grown not only for the sake of creating shade on hot sunny summer. The main task of the tree is to give the gardener a tasty and bountiful harvest fragrant fruits. To do this, it must first bloom, but often flowering is late. Most horticultural crops form flower buds from the third year of life. Why does a young three-year-old apricot not bloom and how to help it start fruiting?
There can be several reasons for the lack of flowering:
As you know, apricots are one of the most heat-loving crops, in addition, they are sensitive to sudden changes in temperature. Strong winter frosts able to "kill" flower buds, so there is nothing to bloom in the spring. Also, freezing and further death of the kidneys also occurs when, after a long autumn, winter comes sharply.
When buying seedlings, you must carefully consider their choice and give preference to those that are suitable for a particular region. The heat-loving southern apricots will never be able to flower and bear fruit in cold northern or central climates.
Apricots love not only heat, but also good lighting. If you plant a tree in deep shade, it simply will not have the strength to bloom, as it will fight for survival, stretching branches in search of the sun.
For growing apricots, it is worth taking a sunny place in a site protected from drafts, where water does not stagnate.
over-concern about the garden can also be the reason for the lack of flowering, especially when it comes to top dressing. Fertilize in moderation, avoiding a large amount of nitrogen-containing preparations. They stimulate the growth of branches and leaves, then the apricot begins to "fatten" and forgets about flowering.
In order for the overfed tree to “come to its senses”, it should be left without top dressing for one season.
Some varieties of apricot "grow up" very late. It would be wrong and completely in vain to expect an early harvest from a species that begins to bear fruit only from the sixth (or even from the eighth) year of life. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully study the features of the variety when buying.
There are also problems with flowering if a tree has such a thing as gum disease. In this case, after curing the apricot, its ability to bear fruit is restored.